Chapman's Settler's Hand-book to the Farm and Garden

First published by G. T. Chapman in 1873?

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services and Auckland War Memorial Museum.

Epub © 2016 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-0-947487-97-3

[TITLE PAGES]

CHAPMAN'S
SETTLER'S HAND-BOOK
TO THE
FARM AND GARDEN,

ARRANGED FOR THE SEASONS & CLIMATE OF NEW ZEALAND.

TO THE NEW ARRIVAL.
HOW TO SETTLE ON A BUSH FARM.
THE FIELD, THE GARDEN, AND THE ORCHARD.
THE FARM AND FARMING STOCK.
THE KITCHEN GARDEN, FRUIT AND FLOWER GARDEN.

NEW ZEALAND:

Published by G. T. CHAPMAN, Bookseller & Stationer,
QUEEN STREET, AUCKLAND.

PRINTED AT THE DAILY SOUTHERN CROSS OFFICE, O'CONNELL-STREET.

[PREFACE]

PREFACE.

The second edition of this work on the Management of the Farm and Garden in New Zealand, has been some time out of print.

During that period we have published other works of a kindred character, such as May's "Guide to Farming in New Zealand," May's "Hints to New Zealand Sheep Farmers," Hay's "Annual Garden Book," Hay's "Handbook to the Kitchen Garden," Hay's "Pine Tree in New Zealand," McEwin's "How to save Seeds and lay out Grass Lands," and the "Handy-book to the Farm and Garden;" yet the present work, since it was sold out, has been continually enquired for by old settlers, not only for themselves, but to recommend to newly-arrived friends for their guidance in beginning Colonial life.

The very high character which the last edition of this book received from the reviewers, and from those who made use of it – for its useful and seasonable advice, has encouraged the publisher to have the work carefully revised and corrected, and also enlarged by the addition of several new improvements and discoveries in Farming and Gardening.

As we said in the Preface to the last edition, the several calendars might be more useful by being incorporated in one, but we are still of the opinion that the information will be more valuable by the several gentle-

men being allowed to speak in their own persons; thus, Mr. May's experience has been chiefly confined to volcanic or scoria land; Mr. Hay's Garden and Nursery in St. George's Bay on a reclaimed sea beach, or alluvial flat; Mr. Hawkins having turned some of the poorest clay soil into the most prolific, and the enormous crops of his prize fruit, which invariably obtains the highest price, adds very much to the value of instruction given by him; Mr. McEwin, a brother of, and trained under the oldest and the best nurseryman and gardener in South Australia, his New Zealand experience being gained in the fine district of Matakana.

With Mr. Hawkins' portion of the manual, we received a note containing some very practical and important hints for those who wish to depend upon written instructions. "In the enclosed arrangement I have named what I consider the best time for the various gardening operations, but do not wish it to be understood that it is the only time such operations can be performed, as not only the difference of aspect, but a difference of soil, must be taken into consideration at the time of sowing or planting. Where the soil is light and dry, and the situation warm, these operations can be performed much earlier, than where both soil and situation are of an opposite character. But it is not only such extremes that regulate the operations of the cultivator, as many situations are favorable for early planting when the soil is of a cold damp character. In gardening, these things must be attended to, and although much information may be obtained by reading works on Horticulture, it is only when reading is accompanied by observation that proficiency in gardening can be obtained."

TO THE NEW ARRIVAL.

BY THE EDITOR.

We cannot improve upon the remarks written for the "New Zealand Magazine" by a gentleman who learned his experience in the bush. He says: – We landed in Auckland on Christmas eve. Perhaps this particular season tended much to the depression of our spirits, bringing vividly to our minds the dear friends from whom we had parted, most likely, never to meet again in this world. So dull and cheerless a Christmas we had never before experienced. The sense of loneliness in a strange land completely overpowered us. Not a friendly welcome – not a cheering smile, not a face we had ever seen, not a hearty grasp of the hand to greet us on our landing! We gave Christmas-day to such gloomy feelings, making no attempt to resist their influence. The next day brought the necessity for exertion, and with the exertion the depression passed away.

The appearance of the Town of Auckland, on our approach from the sea, impressed us favourably – surpassing our expectations. The bright sunshine, clear atmosphere, and glorious summer weather, enhanced the beauty of both town and country, forming a most striking contrast to the heaving ocean we had so long looked upon. The town had more of the home look than we had hoped for; the dress and manner of the people did not appear strange; the tone of voice and the faces might almost be thought familiar; and the dear loved accents of our native land were racy in our ears. The few Maoris to be seen did not exceed the number of coloured people to be met in many English seaports. There was much resemblance to an English town, called suddenly into importance by a new railway, whose requirements were so urgent and pressing that all the expedients at command could not for the moment meet them; or, looking towards the beautiful harbour, you

might fancy you were in some watering-place that had, most unexpectedly, become famous and fashionable, with a sudden influx of visitors exceeding all the means for their accommodation. The streets, the shops, the wooden houses, the irregularity and the unfinished state of everything, conveyed the impression of a rapidly increasing place.

The growth from a village to a town seems to have taken the authorities and the inhabitants by surprise; and that they had only discovered that Auckland was a rising and important city requiring their most strenuous exertions to provide for the public convenience and the public health.

Of the district in which Mr. Kidd settled he says: – Two and a half years ago this district was in a state of nature. Except for the surveyor's marks, and a Maori foot-path here and there, it might have been untrodden by man. That there is progressive improvement, bush and fern giving place to grass, crops, and orchards, is a palpable proof. As yet the progress is slow; but rapid improvement is not to be expected where every kind of labour must be done by a settler and his family. Once progress becomes visible, it is a certain proof that much labour has been expended. We know how many weary weeks of toil passed before we could see any result; how cheerless it was to work from Monday morning till Saturday night, late and early, yet, on each succeeding Sunday, to have no perceptible progress on which the eye could rest. How slowly and gradually the fruits of our labour became visible! But once visible, how marked the progress! We know now that our labour has not been in vain. We know the delight of consuming our own produce, the certainty of increasing supplies of necessaries, and the hope, ere long, of being abundantly supplied even with luxuries.

We learn from our experience of New Zealand soil, that bush land will give a more certain earlier return than fern land. We are also of opinion that bush land is the more profitable for first clearance. We had a dread of commencing to fall bush, anticipating much difficulty. In our first attempt we only cut down the larger trees, which we expected would, at the end of the

summer burn off, leaving the land pretty clear. We found our mistake; the fire would not run; the ground was left covered by a half-charred, tangled mass of underwood, branches, and trunks. We were very careful afterwards to clear off all the undergrowth first, then the scrubby bush, then smaller trees, falling the large ones last; also carefully lopping branches and trunks, leaving the whole as level as possible. In due time we fired it, and had the satisfaction of having a clean burn off. This land is now covered with beautiful grass and clover, and will give abundant food for working cattle. Had we been fortunate enough to have cut down bush in a proper manner when we first came to the land, we would now have been much more forward with labour; and would have had the means of ploughing up fern land last summer. We hope to have the plough going merrily this summer, and to have the cattle in good working order, feeding on the grass now springing luxuriantly on the burnt bush land.

The pioneers have had to encounter all the difficulties, and bear the cost of first transit over an open country. Wagon tracks are easily followed, especially after creeks are bridged and hills cut down. A settler coming here now can land on the beach, at the termination of the road, load his wagon, and reach his land in four hours. How different to sleeping out for three nights and cutting a passage for the first wagon, as we had to do!

The difficulties to be encountered by new settlers are very numerous and very varied. All things appear to come strange, and to present themselves in the most awkward manner. A man is so left to his own resources, so bereft of kindly sympathy and assistance, that what might otherwise be trifling annoyances, become important embarrassments. Coming from an old country, where, from the division of labour, one is almost ministered to by unseen hands, into a new country, where he must rely on himself for everything, is a hard lesson to learn; and New Zealand seems a harsh school in which to learn it. As the task must be mastered some day, perhaps it is as well that it should be at the outset. A little kindliness, costing nothing, might render the task more easy. Let us hope that those who have experienced the total

neglect, want of sympathy, advice, and help on their first essay in bush life, will be careful and active in giving a helping hand and cheerful welcome to all after comers.

Our experience strongly contradicts the answer given by Mr. Hursthouse to the question, What difficulties must be encountered by a new settler in New Zealand? – "God bless you! my dear sir, you are talking of fifty years ago; there are no difficulties whatever in New Zealand now!" We wish we could say this answer even approached the true state of the case. The difficulties are many, and require a spirit of endurance and perseverance to encounter them at almost every step. There is nothing for it but to "put a stout heart to a stey brae" and meet them. They are not insurmountable. Industry, steadiness, perseverance, and patience will conquer all.

A man accustomed to daily labour might not feel many of the difficulties; but to one who led a sedentary life, and was unaccustomed to manual labour, New Zealand life comes hard. Happy for him if he can adapt himself to the new circumstances without repining. By degrees difficulties are overcome, and the new life becomes pleasant; strength increases; and all things are enjoyed with a zest hitherto unknown.

New Zealand holds out great inducements to the labouring man. The high rate of wages is in his favour, if he thinks right to labour for others; but should he labour for himself he will be amply repaid. This is the very country for the hard working man, with a large family, who finds it so difficult to live at home. If his means are unequal to settling at once with his whole family on his land, his children can find employment at such high wages that they will be able to assist him during the first years of heaviest outlay and least production. Young women and girls can obtain £25 or £30 a year in domestic service; lumps of boys and young men can earn 12s. or 15s. per week, and be found in everything except clothes. The father and mother, in the meantime working on the land, would soon make a home, where all the family would be re-united, and, by their joint labour, make it a valuable property.

Much money may be spent to little purpose on land; but it is very different with a man's own labour expended

upon his own land. High rents are paid to be allowed to labour on the landlord's land at home, earning a bare subsistence; but here that labour is expended on his own land, the fruits of the earth come freely, and would produce all that he would require for his support, whilst the labour would enchance the value of the land – this land being his own – a freehold for ever.

This is the great advantage, and one that will, some day, draw an active, industrious population to this country. There is a prospect of independence, not so distant but a man may reap the benefit himself; at all events, his children will realise it, and he can have the comfort of knowing that his family will be more independent, and better provided for than he could have dreamt of at home.

The climate in the Province of Auckland is as much superior to the south of England as that of the south of England is to the north of Scotland. The forest is evergreen; no frost to interfere with vegetation; in winter, perhaps, more "refreshingly green" than in summer. The heat in summer is never so great as to make outdoor work disagreeable. Sufficient rain falls to insure a vigorous growth. All this country requires is population.

HOW TO SETTLE ON A BUSH FARM.

HOW TO SETTLE ON A BUSH FARM.

By A. MCEWIN.

In writing this little work for the guidance of newly-arrived immigrants, with limited means, who intend to make this province their adopted home, I may simply state that I am determined to bring forward nothing that is calculated to mislead, but only that which has come under my own personal experience and observation.

With regard to the seasons I have quoted for sowing all kinds of seeds and plants, they are the same as I have adopted for my own use, after six years' practical experience in the province of Auckland. I have also been for many years residing in the Australian

colonies; and, being at present in communication with many private friends there, from what I can learn I am of opinion that New Zealand is the more preferable colony of the two for those who are industrious and intend to follow agricultural pursuits.

Having arrived in Auckland and taken a temporary residence for the family, look round you for a few days to get all the information you can. Pay no attention to grumblers; make up your mind to persevere; you will not regret it in the end. Hundreds have done well before you, and there is room for thousands more to do the same. Go to the Land-office and learn where there are any blocks of land open for selection, and whether the track to them is by land or water. Water carriage is best, except in cases where the roads are improved to the settlement out from Auckland. Do not be in too great a hurry in choosing your land. Perhaps you may have an opportunity of visiting more than one district. If possible, choose a piece both bush and fern land, not too swampy or mountainous; look about for fresh water springs or creeks, which there are almost sure to be on every selection if you select any distance inland. In the absence of a navigable river or creek look for the best road in the first place.

I shall now suppose that you have made your selection, and there is no time to be lost in getting on to the land. The first business is the erection of a habitation. The list of tools you require for all works will be as follows: –

Two American axes, grindstone, five or six feet crosscut saw, files, set of wedges, maul rings, handsaw and file, hammer, gimblets, pretty strong and different sizes, strong spokeshave, tomahawk, or small bench axe, 1 1/2 in. auger, smoothing plane, foot rule, strong line, garden spades, grubbing hoes, flat hoes, Dutch hoe, dung fork, strong iron rake six teeth at three inches apart, billhooks, fern-hook, scythe and stone, sickles, wooden rakes, hay fork. In the event of your having working bullocks, you will require bows, yokes, chains, plough, and harrows.

Commence by selecting a pretty level spot for your house, sheltered, if possible, from the southerly winds; and, if your land is near a navigable bay, river, or creek,

erect your house near the best landing-place. There are many different ways of building houses in the bush, but the one I shall recommend to you is made of either raupo, nikau, or toitoi, it being easily constructed, and very warm and comfortable when well finished; the materials are also plentiful.

Proceed to cut straight posts of hard wood, not less than six inches in diameter and eight feet long; saw them level at the top ends, that the wall-plate may rest on each of them. Mark out the size of your house according to your family; twelve feet by twenty will make two good-sized rooms, twelve by thirty will make three rooms. After squaring off the ground plan, dig the corner holes first, making them all two feet deep; put in the posts, fill in a little earth to steady them upright; fix a line pretty tight from the top of one post to another, by which means you will see if they are pretty near level and on the square; the line will also be a guide to put in the remainder of the posts. Leave two feet of space between each post, and wider spaces for the door and windows, and a still larger space for the chimney. Ram all the posts well. The posts for the centre of the end and partition walls must be fourteen feet long, which will give a good pitch to the roof, and also answer to rest the ridge pole on. Cut long straight pieces for wall plates, square them with the axe to make them lie solid on the top of the posts, and fasten them on with four inch nails. By searching the bush a little you may find a straight tree, between 2 and 3 inches in diameter, that will answer for a ridge pole; fasten it on with a few nails to steady it. The rafters must be straight, and about three inches in diameter and fitted on at two feet apart, and made to rest evenly on the wall-plate and ridge-pole. Fasten to the wall-plate with 3m. nails; but smaller nails will answer to fasten the top ends. Battens are the next thing in order. Straight ti-tree poles are very plentiful, and those about two and a half inches in diameter are easily split, and make very good battens. Nail them on the walls and roof at about ten inches apart. This done, the place is now ready for the raupo, nikau, or toitoi, which is fastened on to the battens with flax, or small cord – like roots, which creep along the bush ground, and which, by in-

quiring of some of the older residents, you will be shown how to fasten on. The chimney is made of posts, in the same manner as the house, and should be in size about six feet wide by four feet deep. Let the wall-plates be eighteen inches lower than those of the house. Battens are nailed on the posts, inside and outside, at four inches apart, and filled in between with mortar, made of clay and grass, chopped up and mixed amongst it, to make it hang together. When the mortar gets dry, remove a few of the lower inside battens and build in more mortar to keep the fire from the wood-work. Finish up by plastering inside and outside, until all the battens are covered. The stalk of the chimney is drawn in to the usual width at the top by means of four straight poles, about three inches in diameter, extending from the wall-plate to about eighteen inches above the ridge. Fasten them well to the wall-plate also at the the top, with four cross pieces to steady them. The stalk is covered outside with some material, in the manner of weather-boarding. Fix some kind of spouting between the thatch of the house and the stalk of the chimney to throw the wet off. The chimney is best in the side of the house. Dig a small drain round the outside of the house to keep the damp from the floor. The above description of house will last five years, with very little repair.

The next important thing is the selection of a piece of your best bush ground for a garden. Let it be some way from the house, for you will possibly keep fowls. As the garden is the first thing you will begin to profit by, you must be particular in selecting the site. The situation should be well sheltered and open to the sun, sloping gently to the north-east and north-west. A deep hazely loam, not too retentive, is a good garden soil; deep sandy loams, not too light, are also good. The soil is generally good along the margin of creeks, where there must be a quantity of decomposed vegetable matter and alluvial deposits. For a garden at least avoid stiff clay soil, and after selecting a place as near as possible to the foregoing description, commence by clearing away with a billhook all the supplejacks and underwood; next cut the larger trees, and lop the branches and trunks well up, so that the fire, when set in, may make a clean burn.

Bush clearing should be performed in winter, and burnt off in the following February and March. When you are ready to set fire to the lumber, wait for a high wind from the direction of your house. I may add that if you are in the neighbourhood of a place where coasting vessels trade, while you are clearing you can split up the timber that is available for posts, rails, and firewood, and make sale of them; they will possibly pay the expense of clearing, bearing in mind to reserve stuff for fencing in your own garden. In clearing bush on a more extensive scale, for grass land, you should leave clumps or belts of trees wherever you think them most required for shelter, and should also leave clumps of trees round the principal springs, as experience has taught me that they will dry up when all the bush is cleared away. Grass seeds should be sown after burning off, as soon as the ashes are cool, at the rate of one bushel per acre, and left to spring away with the first rains. Winter wheat should not be sown until May, at the rate of one and a half bushel per acre. Pickle the seed wheat with blue-stone, to prevent smut; it will also protect it from the ravages of rats and mice. After sowing, chip with hoes the surface of the ground among the stumps, to cover the seed. I have seen fair crops of wheat without the chipping, but only in cases where the land was very good and well burnt off. Having now given you a pretty good idea how to proceed with the first work to be done on your new place, I shall arrange the remainder of garden and field operations for the whole year in a kind calendar, commencing with the month of

FEBRUARY.

I shall now suppose that your garden ground is well burnt off. Commence at once to break up the land with grubbing hoes, from four to six inches deep. If your hoes are strong and well-tempered, they will cut nearly all the roots you require to remove for the first year, with the exception of a few large ones, for which use the axe. Throw the roots into heaps on to the broken up ground to be burnt off when dry. After breaking up a quantity, look after the erection of your fence. The first broken up ground should be reserved for onions,

potatoes, and a few vegetables; that broken up later, for pumpkins, maize, &c. Clear and level a piece of the first broken up ground and plant cabbages, savoys, &c., for winter use, in rows at two feet apart each way. Sow turnips in drills, at twenty inches apart; when the plants have reached to four leaves, thin them out to ten inches apart in rows. Turnips are an excellent vegetable on the table with salt meat; they are also good to fatten pigs, when boiled and mixed with bran, &c. This is a good time to burn off part of your fern land, as a great deal of herbage will spring up during the autumn and winter months which will be good picking for a cow; and the young fern will come up in October, which is also good feed for cattle. Fern land, intended for grass, should be ploughed up in November and December and left fallow until this month and next, and sown with one bushel of grass seed and one hundredweight of guano per acre. Beware not to cross-harrow the land for grass, or you tear up the furrows and cover the seed too deep. When the grass begins to stool, roll it over in order to level the ground for mowing. I have most excellent grass, on average fern land, with the same treatment as described.

MARCH.

Finish burning off all fallen bush that is dry, sow grass seeds when the ashes are cool. Burn off the roots on the first broken up ground, as they will now be getting dry. Make good fires, at twelve feet apart, on your pumpkin ground; when the fires are burnt out, mark the places with stakes, as they are the spots where the pumpkin seeds must be sown afterwards. Plant cabbage and sow turnips, if not done last month. Continue to break up more ground, burn off roots; make small drains wherever you think them required, to prevent the winter rains from souring your garden ground.

APRIL.

Commence the erection of an outhouse, for storing your produce when grown. It may be made in the same manner as the dwelling-house; but without windows and chimney. If you intend keeping pigs and fowls, make houses for them also, and keep them well bedded with

raupo or rushes, to make manure, until you have straw of your own growing. If you keep a cow make a stock-yard and bed it also. Save all the manure you can, it is valuable for the garden. Continue to break up ground; you will find that ground which is broken up in the dry weather will grow the best crops. Burn off roots as they get dry.

MAY.

Continue to break up new ground and burn off roots. Sow Windsor and long-pod beans, in drills three feet apart and four inches apart in the drills, cover them two inches deep; when about eight inches high, earth them up. Sow a small bed of cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli seeds at the end of this month, for your own use. Sow winter wheat on bush land, as directed before.

JUNE.

It is now time to prepare ground for onions. See that the ground is not too wet; rather wait a few days than work it wet. Proceed to rake the ground over with a strong, coarse-toothed rake, so as to make a good level bed for the seed; mark off the beds four feet wide, set the line, and mark the paths by walking along with one foot on each side of the line. Sow the seed at the rate of about one ounce to three rods of ground, and take about two inches of soil from the paths with a spade, and scatter it evenly over the beds; finish by raking the beds lightly. In cases where there are many stumps on the ground, you may dispense with the beds, only rake a little deeper after sowing. Keep them free from weeds, and when about four inches high, thin them out to about five or six inches apart. Sow dwarf peas in drills eighteen inches apart; taller kinds at thirty inches apart, as they require staking. Sow broad beans, if not done last month. It is now time to transplant fruit trees. Procure a few of each of the best varieties of apple, pear, peach, plum, and cherry, from some experienced nurseryman. Make for each tree a circular hole or pit, a little larger than will contain the roots, and having, with a sharp knife, made a clean cut at the extreme points of the roots, set the tree into the centre of the hole, and

with the hand, spread and regulate the roots and fibres, at the same time filling in some well pulverised soil until the roots are covered, finish by levelling in the hole, and firm the soil by treading gently round the tree. Be careful not to plant too deep; six inches is a good average for the roots to be below the surface. Prune the trees by cutting the leading shoots well down, and thin out some of the laterals, especially of peaches. The trees may be planted in the onion ground, at twenty-five feet apart each way. Plant out a few gooseberry bushes at eight feet apart; they bear most abundantly in this Province. Strawberries are also very fruitful here; it is now time to plant a few of them. Continue to break up ground; it will be in good time for late crops of maize. Sow oats on fern land which has lain fallow, at the rate of two bushels of seed and one hundredweight of guano per acre. Give the ground one stroke of the harrow before sowing, and harrow in the guano with the seed. Draw water furrow's where required. Roll the oats when about three inches high. In sowing skinless oats, one bushel per acre will be sufficient seed. Turn cattle into bush grass where it is too rank. Make drains round the paddocks, if required.

JULY.

Continue to sow onions and peas; plant fruit trees and gooseberry bushes, if not done last month. Towards the end of the month, plant a few potatoes in light dry soil, in drills twenty inches apart and ten inches between the sets, cover three inches deep; when about four inches high, earth them up. Finish sowing oats on fern land this month. Commence clearing bush land to burn off in the autumn.

AUGUST.

Finish sowing onions early this month. Plant out cabbages, &c., in rows, at two feet apart each way; earth up when pretty well grown. Plant potatoes in dry soils. Sow carrots in dry free soils, in drills at fifteen inches apart; thin them to eight inches apart. Keep the weeds down in all the garden. Sow spring wheat at the rate of two bushels per acre, same as directed before for bush and fern land.

SEPTEMBER.

This is the month for planting the general crop of potatoes. If the ground is very rough and uneven, drag the coarse rake over it; set the line, and with the hoe draw drills, at two feet apart, from four to five inches deep; plant the sets at ten inches apart in the drills and cover them. You will have an extra fine crop by sowing about three-quarters of a hundredweight of guano per acre in the drills with the potatoes. In case there are many stumps on the ground, scrape holes with the hoe, about four inches deep and fifteen inches apart; drop the sets in and cover them up. When the potatoes are grown about six inches high, earth them up. This is on the bush land; but for potatoes new fern land should have lain fallow since summer; it should be well torn about with the harrow, and rolled, to level it, before planting. Plant the potatoes behind the plough in every third furrow. Sow guano in same furrow as potatoes, at the rate of two hundredweight per acre. Harrow them over lightly, and when about six inches high, mould them up. It is not desirable to plant potatoes in new fern land, except it be of first quality. Commence to sow maize towards the end of this month. Sow in holes four feet apart each way; scrape holes with the flat hoe, about an inch deep and eight inches in diameter, drop in from five to six seeds, cover them, and firm the earth on them with the back of the hoe. When about eight inches high, pull up the weakest plants, leaving three of the strongest in each hole, and draw the earth well up round them with the hoe. Those that you pull out will be good feed for the cow or pig. Turn cattle out of and close grass paddocks intended for seed this month.

This is the proper month for sowing tobacco seed. To commence on a quarter of an acre, procure four strong boxes about two feet square, and twelve inches deep; have them filled to within an inch of the top with light rich sandy loam, and make the surface perfectly level and smooth; then take a little seed between the finger and thumb, and sprinkle it evenly over the surface; be careful not to sow too great a quantity in a box, the seeds are so small that about an eight part of an ounce will grow a

sufficient quantity of plants for an acre. After sowing the seed, sift some fine earth over the top until the seed is covered to the depth of nearly a quarter of an inch; place the boxes in a warm, sheltered situation, and water them over with a watering-pot; the watering must be continued at intervals to keep the soil moist in the boxes, if the plants appear too close set in the boxes, they must be thinned to about an inch apart; when the leaves of the young plants have attained the size of a half-crown, they are ready for transplanting; the land intended for the plantation should be rich, deep worked, and well pulverised; the plants should be three feet apart, and the planting should be performed in the morning or evening; water the plants well before removing them from the boxes; with a sharp-pointed trowel proceed to take up the plants, singly, into a shallow box or tin dish, leaving a little soil on the roots of each, the line being set and the ground marked at the given distance; with the trowel make holes large enough to receive the plants, and set them in carefully so as not to remove the soil that was taken up with the roots; use the trowel to smooth and level the surface round the stem of each plant; this done, the plants must be well watered and shaded; in about four days, roots will be sufficiently established to remove the shades; those plants that have missed can be filled up from those that remain in the boxes; the principal labour now is to keep the surface well stirred among the plants, and also to keep them free from slugs and caterpillars; a little hot lime dusted round the plants in the evening will settle the slugs; caterpillars must be handpicked; the proper time for topping the plants is indicated by the blossom making its appearance; remove all decayed and ragged leaves from the bottom of the stem, and with the finger and thumb nail pinch the top of each plant, leaving only from seven to nine of the best leaves on each plant which are intended for the crop. All sprouts that appear must be removed, as the future quality of the manufactured article depends greatly on the full development of the leaves, the variety best adapted for manufacturing purposes is the Virginian.

OCTOBER.

Finish planting potatoes this month. Continue to sow maize as directed for last month. If the weather is fine and warm, commence to sow pumpkins in places where the fires were burnt, as directed before. Prepare the ground by mixing the ashes well with the soil for about ten feet in circumference, as deep as possible, and without bringing up too much subsoil. Rake the surface over fine and deep, scrape holes with the handle about six inches in diameter and one inch deep. On the centre of the places so prepared, drop in five or six seeds and cover them firm and smooth. When the plants have grown to have four leaves, pull up all except three of the strongest and healthiest, and when the plants have got from five to six leaves and are pretty strong, the top of the leading shoot of each plant must be pinched off with the finger and thumb, which has the effect of producing a greater number of runners and making the plants more fruitful. This must be done before the plants send out runners. Some sow a row of maize in the centre of the ground, between the pumpkin holes. Sow water melons, rock melons, and cucumbers, same as directed for pumpkins, only give them less room and sow in rich soil and sheltered situations, where they will get all the day's sun if possible. Sow dwarf kidney beans in drills twenty inches apart and two inches deep, drop the seeds at four inches apart in the drills. When the beans are from three to four inches high earth them up. Sow runner beans in double drills three feet apart. Set a line and draw a drill along each side of the line about two and a half inches deep and drop the seeds at six inches apart in the drills. When the beans are up fix a row of stakes up the centre of the double rows; the stakes may be about seven feet long, fixed firmly in the ground at about ten inches apart. Plant out cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli; sow carrots and turnips as directed before. Keep the weeds down in all the garden.

NOVEMBER.

Finish sowing maize, melons, cucumbers, and pumpkins this month. Prepare a piece of ground for transplanting onions into by digging it over a second time.

Rake it fine and level, and mark it off into four feet beds. When thinning onions to be transplanted, they must be prized out with a chisel, or some other such shaped instrument, to prevent their being broken or bruised. With a sharp knife cut the roots off to about an inch; with a small wooden dibble, dib them into the beds at once, at about six inches apart; choose showery weather if possible. Hoe the surface of the ground amongst the young crops, especially those of drill culture. Prepare fern land to lie fallow for grass and oats. First mow and burn off the fern, plough the land four inches deep, and lay it up in eight or ten yard ridges.

DECEMBER.

Sow cabbage, broccoli, and Savoy seeds. As the weather is now warm and dry, they must be kept well watered. By sowing now and at the end of May, you may have cabbage for use all the year round. Grass seeds will now be getting ripe and ready to cut. Where growing on bush land, you must use the sickle, as you could not use a scythe amongst the stumps, Tie the grass up in sheaves, and set these up in double rows to dry until stacked or threshed. Grass seeds on fern land may be mowed with the scythe, and when dry, raked up and stacked until threshed.

JANUARY.

Grain harvest will now have commenced. If the wheat is pretty rank on bush land, when reaping leave a good high stubble. After clearing the wheat off the ground and the stubble is dry, set fire, and you will burn out a great many stumps and surface roots. A great many of the farmers in this district burn their grass stubble also. In the event of your burning stubble, be careful and have the ground well cleared around your buildings and stacks. During this and next month, potatoes and onions will be getting ripe. Onions are known to be ripe when the tops are withered. They must be taken up carefully; if bruised or cut, they will keep no time. Commence at one end of the bed with the spade, by forcing it in a slanting direction well under the onions; shake the soil from the roots, and lay them behind you, thinly on the

USEFUL INFORMATION.

beds, to dry for a day or two. When the roots come off easily with the finger and thumb, get them stored at once, until picked over for the market. Potatoes should be stored at once after digging. An excellent plan of keeping and preserving potatoes from the worm in New Zealand is by sprinkling dry ashes over them. Put down on the floor a layer of potatoes, about a foot in depth, and with the shovel scatter the ashes well over them, until you think the spaces between the potatoes are well filled up; then another layer of potatoes, then more ashes, and so on. Pumpkins and maize will be ripe in March and April. Pumpkins are ripe when the leaves and runners begin to wither. They will keep a long time lying outside; but they had better be gathered in when ripe, as you will begin to turn over the ground for another crop of some sort. Hoe the ground a little deeper the second time. Maize is known to be ripe when the leaves or husks which cover the corn are withered and dry. Strip the husks all off, except three or four, which will answer to fasten as many heads of corn together. Fix up beams in the store, and hang the corn across them. Whenever you can spare time, clear away all rubbish to the manure heap from ground that has been cropped, and break up as much as you can in dry weather.

USEFUL INFORMATION.

Look about your farm, and clear away the fern or scrub from any hidden creeks or holes where cattle may get bogged.

Be careful in selecting your seeds of all kinds. Those of colonial growth are to be preferred, if grown by an experienced person. English seeds often do not grow, to the great loss and disappointment of the settler.

Thresh out your wheat, oat, and grass seed as soon as possible. The rats and mice make sad havoc amongst them if left standing long in the stack, except you fall upon some plan of erecting foundations to prevent the vermin from getting at the grain. Keep two good cats about your place, and the rats and mice will disappear as your farm gets opened up.

Fix up a steel mill in your outhouse, to grind your wheat, maize, and skinless oats,

Plant out a few fruit trees every year, in the season, and procure good varieties from a practical nurseryman.

In this fine climate good sorts are as easily grown as bad ones. Plant the trees at twenty-five feet apart in the garden; they will not interfere with the cropping of the ground for the first three or four years. The New Zealand settlers can boast of more luxuries in the way of fruit than many gentlemen in England, as a great many of the tropical fruits grow here luxuriantly in the open air. Most kinds of stone fruit begin to bear well the fourth year after planting.

Sow and plant all your crops in dry weather. Rather wait a few days than put anything in when the ground is wet.

A fishing net is invaluable to settlers living on rivers and near the sea, as fish are very plentiful and good on the New Zealand coast. The net should be set at high water, across the mouths of creeks and narrow inlets, and left until the tide ebbs. It may also be hauled in places where fish frequent, if the bottom be clear of rocks and the water not too deep for the net. A two-inch mesh is the best size for general use. With a twenty-five fathom net, two other settlers and myself have taken as many as two hundred fish at one haul.

If there are wild pigs in your neighbourhood, keep a good pig dog, One day in a month is not often lost in pig hunting.

THE FIELD, GARDEN, AND ORCHARD...

THE FIELD, BY DAVID HAY.

THE FIELD, GARDEN, AND ORCHARD,

ARRANGED FOR THE

SEASONS AND CLIMATE OF NEW ZEALAND,

BY DAVID HAY.

THE FIELD.

JANUARY.

The general crop of maize sown in October, will now be in flower; thin out to two or three feet apart each way, and when the male blossom fades cut it down to the first or second joint above the cob, pull off a few of the lower leaves, and the top and bottom leaves use for green food for horses and cows, only do not strip too soon as the grain gets shrivelled and the crop injured; mould up round the stems before the cobs appear, and keep them clear of weeds. Break up new ground if it is not too hard, plough, harrow, drag, and burn fern root, and all weeds, keeping the ashes on the surface. Now is the time to prepare land for autumn sowing; two or three ploughings and harrowings now will shew materially on autumn sown crops. "Once well done, is as good as twice badly done;" do not be too anxious, content yourself with a little every year, say from ten to twenty acres, but this, of course, will depend upon the size of your farm and your means; drain and make ditches, springs generally rise on the highest part of the ground, but as some land gets too hard in summer you must open drains on such land in the spring, a good main drain three feet deep at an angle, along the slope of a hill, will sometimes drain a field; if clay land, shoulder the bottom, and lay wood cross-ways 4 inches thick; kauri is the best split in 18 inch lengths. Cart fencing, make bridges, eradicate weeds, lift potatoes for present use, reap wheat, and secure against rain and vermin, be careful not to let your crops get too ripe before you begin reaping, for if left till quite ripe a

strong breeze of wind may shake out a very considerable quantity of the grain, wheat in particular should be cut when the stalk is yellow the whole length, and the head still upright. Oats frequently ripen unevenly and should be cut early, and if any unripe heads are left in the straw after thrashing it will be better fodder for the cattle. Barley has not succeeded well on new land, but after turnips fed off with sheep, fine samples have been produced. Mow oats, reap beans, barley, and canary seed. The gathering of crops should be done when they are ripe whether in January or February. Hoe and clear from weeds, swedes and mangolds; plough all vacant land as the sun and air are the best pulverizers when the soil is loosened. All sowing suspended this and next month.

FEBRUARY.

This month being generally very dry and warm, not much can be done as regards sowing, except that oats, &c., for green crops may sometimes be sown in fallowed land where the weeds are killed and insects starved out, but it is rather early for sowing the autumn crops, and the ground teeming with insects. I think all sowing is better deferred till the beginning of next month; but be vigilant in getting the ground prepared for the reception of the autumn crops, such as ploughing and harrowing, burning, fencing, ditching, and draining. Look well to your water courses. Lay in a stock of manure, such as guano and bone dust for top dressing. Laid on the ground 1/8 of an inch thick, I have found it beneficial to turnips and peas, it acts very slowly, and where the carriage is far inland the expense would be very great. Summer fallowing new land, for permanent sowing down, is a gain of 3 years. Ploughing up once, sowing directly, nine times out of ten, it has to be done over again, as the fern is not killed, this is fern land I allude to. Forest land only requires felling and burning – fell three months before firing. For light scrub, but for heavy bush eight or even twelve months will be required. Early in April is the best time to burn, and sow directly on the appearance of rain. See that all grain crops are attended to, surface stirring and clearing weeds. Where

THE FIELD, BY DAVID HAY.

there is sorrel in the ground now is the time to eradicate, by exposing it to the sun. Potatoes, house main crop, in an open shed, or a ti-tree whare. Protect from rain, do not exclude the air, or they will rot. Select your seed for another year; I find this to be the best way, as you can pick out the good sorts. Spread them (those for seed) for ten days to green before storing away. Maize can be used for green food. See last month. Swedish turnip, sow end of the month, for winter feed for pigs or sheep.

MARCH.

Presuming that the potato crop will be all up this month, and the maize crop fast progressing to maturity, everything must be got in readiness by the middle of this month, for the main winter crops getting in. See that new land has had three ploughings and harrowings previous to sowing, or laying down for permanent pasture. If the field is wet, lay it up in 12 to 24 furrow ridges, if on a hill side angle the furrows; when at right angles, much is washed away, The quantity of seed per acre is 8 lbs. of clover, rye grass one bushel, or red clover 6 lbs., white clover 2 lbs., trefoil 2 lbs., rye grass 1/2 bushel, and perhaps 2 or 3 lbs. of cocksfoot, you may calculate from £1 to £1 5s. for seed, to an English acre. After the middle of the month you may commence sowing if showery weather, but rather wait for a few weeks if the weather continue dry and hot, we must not go by a given day, or even a month for this work, but do not defer it late if possible. In sowing the seed, choose a still day; sow each sort separately, as the clover is heavier than the grass seed: many farmers prefer however to mix all together and sow them, do not harrow in the seed or you will loose one half of it, the tines of the harrow will bury it too deep, that it will never vegetate, seeds to vegetate freely, require warmth, moisture, air, and exclusion from the light, they should be therefore slightly covered to exclude the light, but not deep enough to exclude the air, 1/4 inch is sufficient as proved by experience. People err in taking too much off the ground at first, I would sow no oats with the grass. If the ground is much exposed, a handful of oats may do no harm along with the grass

seed, if you have sheep to turn on it two months hence. Prove the seed before sowing, put it between two folds of flannel and pour boiling water over it, and you will see it sprout, if good, if not your labour will be thrown away. Sow oats and turnips for green food through the early part of winter. Cape barley, sow on dry land. White carrots for winter and spring. Attend to the housing and storing of crops and roots. The ram should be turned to the ewes this month, if there is a prospect of plenty of food for the lambing ewes in August.

APRIL.

Look well now to the repairing of roads, before the winter sets in; also bridges and ditches. Use every effort for the conveying away of surface water. Do not defer the sowing of oats, for main crops, for winter and spring feed later than the beginning of this month. More particularly on land foul with small weeds, such as sorrel, &c., after the potato and grain harvest, such land should be well fallowed and the weeds, &c., burnt – then sow such land with oats, three bushels to the acre, to be grazed or cut in September or October, then after being well grazed out, ploughed and laid down with grass and clover, sowing at the same time two bushels of maize per acre. If September lambs will be soon enough for the farm, the rams should be with the ewes this month. The main crop of grass may be sown now, if the weather is favourable, but if the land has been fallowed and cleared of weeds and insects, last month would suit better for sowing grass. Rape is an excellent thing to sow with grass seed, as the leaves spread and assist to keep the ground moist and afford shelter to the young clover. Four to six pounds of rape to the acre; but without sheep, rape will not be serviceable, it affords an early bite, and the sheep consolidate the new land, which is much required here. It is astonishing the good they do to newly laid down pastures, if the land is not a stiff retentive clay, which of course would have just the opposite effect. Burning must be finished towards the end of the month for the season. See to the green crops, sow cabbages, Swedish turnips, mangold, and white Belgian carrots. Hoe and clear off weeds, mould up and

THE FIELD, BY DAVID HAY.

thin out as they require. Cabbages may still be planted, but cabbages impoverish the ground very much, three or four years is often enough to follow each other as a crop; then a little manure must be applied. Stable or cow manure is the best. Carrots are a profitable crop on light land, fine feed for horses. Sow winter vetches with a part of oats, as the oats keep them up off the ground. Land intended for wheat ought to be well prepared now by ploughing and harrowing. Potato land is preferable to any other provided it was well manured, and well wrought for the Potatoes. We have generally fine weather this month with occasional showers.

MAY.

Grass seed may still be sown in warm soils, but not on clay land – if the weather did not permit last month. Prepare the ground for wheat sowing. Bush land requires very little doing to it after the timber is cleared. Sow the seed and chip it in with a hoe. Some of the finest wheat we ever saw in this province was sown last month; but the land should be clean and not more than two bushels of seed to the acre, as it will have time to tiller out. Sow grass seed after the wheat is sown, and draw a hand bush harrow over it. Sow oats for spring feed, plant out cow cabbage, sow turnips, early stone, to be eaten off with sheep in the spring; but if they can be got in last month so much the better, as May sown turnips will scarcely pay for the labour. Attend to the crops sown last month. See that no water lodges on the ground under crop, look well to the furrows and ditches, and keep the mouths of drains clear. Make drains where required, bridge and repair roads. The yards must not be neglected, put all the sheds under repair, and litter them well down with fern or other material that can be converted into manure, as you will find it valuable next spring for a crop of potatoes and cabbage. Young stock and milk cows must be kept up in condition. It is a fallacy to say that cattle do not require housing in winter in New Zealand; the cold winds and rain very soon take the flesh off them, when they are exposed to it, without a shed to cover them, worse than a still frosty night. They are better lying in under cover

without any victuals, but at this time there ought to be plenty of green food, such as Swedish turnips, mangolds, carrots, sugar grass and maize, with a little hay on very wet nights. Pigs can likewise be fed on the above.

JUNE.

Winter wheat may now be sown. Sow in dry weather two bushels to an imperial acre, harrow if to be laid down. Sow grass seed and roll afterwards, grass with a grain crop is not recommended; wheat should be steeped in some solution to prevent smut, one pound of blue stone dissolved in seven gallons of water, steep the seed in this for ten or twelve hours. Sow beans, or what is better, plough them in every other furrow; rather shallow, say three inches; that leaves room for hoeing, and the produce will be nearly doubled. The live stock must be looked to, especially the late calves; in wet weather they must be driven into a shed. Give hay and oats. Milk cows can have mangolds and a few cabbages if they begin to sink in milk. Store stock must be kept in condition, as it is a bad time to let them fall off now. Give hay in wet cold weather, and house them at night. Pigs can be now killed for bacon. Attend to the young pigs, see that they are well littered down either with straw or fern. There ought to be plenty of roots for them now, such as potatoes, carrots, turnips, and refuse from the garden. There is no profit got by keeping a beast too long; keep it growing, and turn it into money as soon as possible. The higher you feed, the richer the manure. Boiled food with a handful of salt in it, is far better for fattening pigs than green food. A little salt for all stock is an excellent preventive of disease, it keeps the constitution in a healthy state. The secret of the usefulness of salt, is, we believe, that it is one of the substances required to make healthy blood, and animals cannot digest their food without its constituents. Hedges may be cut any time for the next three months. Furze makes a good fence if cut three times a year, rather expensive, very well round arable land, but in pasture land it very soon encroaches on the grass, and is difficult to eradicate. This is the first winter month, or rather rainy month, as we have no snow in the province of Auckland.

THE FIELD, BY DAVID HAY.

JULY.

Beans and wheat may still be sown in favourable weather. Look to the water courses, and see that all is clear. Do not allow the water to lodge any length of time on newly sown ground. Wooden bridges and roads will require repairing. Do not work land in wet weather, far better let it alone, and keep your horses in the stable. New ground may be ploughed for the first time. Keep the heavy stock on high land in wet weather, and look after them daily. Cows calving require attention; on wet cold nights keep them in, and feed with hay and green oats. The young stock – see last month. Sheep must be watched now, and kept on high ground; give hay and Swedish turnips in an open shed; always keep rock salt in their troughs to lick at, as it is a preventative of disease; as they lamb they should be drawn off to better feed near the homestead; examine them every month, and tag them that require it; look to their feet paring; the fly does not trouble them here as in England. Cart manure from sheds and piggeries, make a heap and cover with mould, it will be valuable for spring potato planting, besides many other things. Now is the time to make manure. Horses will require more dry food now to keep in condition or they will loose flesh. This is generally the severest month in the year, so that cattle require more than ordinary attention:. very little strength in grass. Green oats are good for calves; it will keep them from scouring if put on in time. Do all work in doors that is required when you cannot work out. See that everything is in repair and order, so that you may know where to find it when required; and have your plans well considered before being put into execution.

AUGUST.

Talavera spring wheat may now be sown on good soil after twice ploughing. Land that has been laid down previous to this and not doing well may be broken up for oats and potatoes. Potatoes are a fine crop to clean ground; work the ground well, and give a little manure. Grass generally takes well after a crop of this sort; sow it down in autumn with a little guano and rape. Horses

must be kept in condition, as the working season is coming on for them now; corn, hay, and carrots, with a few green oats, will keep horses in healthy working order. See that the store cattle are kept up; give a little hay every night, it will do no harm, as they generally fall off about this time, especially the late calves. House them at night in wet weather, and give hay and roots. Examine the sheep every day, and draw out those that have lambed, and put them on better feed. Cut turnips and mangolds, and give hay occasionally. The cows will be coming in now; give them plenty of green food, so as they may not fall off in milk till the grass comes in; next month they will take care of themselves.

Persevere to get work forward on all favourable occasions. If the weather permit and the soil is dry, plant potatoes for the main crop, more particularly the last fortnight of this month. The main crop of oats may be sown the end of the month. Cart out manure on favourable occasions. Avoid working land in wet weather. Put in cuttings of thorns in nursery lines for hedges the following autumn. Blue gums plant on bleak situations, but not near an orchard or garden, as the roots will destroy everything they come near.

SEPTEMBER.

If the weather is at all favourable, you must embrace every opportunity to get in the main crops. Finish oat sowing; for hay from three to four bushels per acre. Thick sowing will make a finer hay, if grass and clover seeds are sown among the crop. Two bushels of oats will be seed enough. Spring wheat finish, if not already done. Chose a fine day for sowing barley on good ground; harrow and roll. Dry soil is the best, on high ground, twice ploughed. Field peas sow, either broadcast or in drills, two feet apart, three and half bushels per acre. Peas and beans do best on a limestone bottom; shelly ground will yield a large return. Spring vetches may be sown; they are a good crop to clean ground; sow thick. Drilled wheat and beans may be hoed. The land must be got ready for the potato crop as fast as the green food is used up. Plough it up, let it lie for two weeks, plough again, roll and harrow;

THE FIELD, BY DAVID HAY.

then with a double mould plough draw drills two and a half feet apart, manure in the drills, either above or below the sets. I prefer large potatoes cut to small ones; the large seed cut yields far more weight per acre. After planting, split the furrows to cover them. Harrow the drills about two weeks after planting; see that the harrows do not tear up the seed. Do not attempt this work if the weather is unsettled, I have seen fine crops of potatoes taken off ploughed in pasture land; this may do on the hot scoria land, but never attempt it on cold stiff soil, besides you cannot work the ground when ploughed in on the turf. Finish grass sowing, and if any of the autumn sown has failed, a little more seed may be sown, bush harrow and roll, perhaps a little guano; one cwt. per acre would bring it away. Rape should be sown with it to keep the drought out. I have seen grass come away well in the spring where the ground was good, and on bad ground it would all perish before the summer was over. I prefer autumn to spring sowing.

OCTOBER.

Prepare ground to drill maize in for the general crop. Get it in before the 10th of the month. Work the ground well, and drill it in three feet between the rows, if it is to be hoed by hand; but if by the plough, leave the drills wider apart, as in New South Wales, it is planted eight feet apart from drill to drill, and five grains put in each hole two and a half feet apart, thin out to three healthy stalks, mould up partially with the plough, thin out to two feet apart; the thinnings will come in useful as the season advances, for your cattle and horses. Alluvial soil and low ground nearly on a level with the sea grow the best maize. A little manure is required to grow it, for the corn. Some people imagine that it does not exhaust the soil, but I have found it very exhausting. Finish potato planting; hoe those advancing. Keep the drill harrow at work between the rows of all drilled crops. Keep the weeds under. See that the water does not lodge on newly planted or sown ground. Forty-eight hours under water will destroy any crop, especially at this season of the year. Grass fields intended for hay

must be looked to, and gather off any wood or stones lying about; then roll and shut up the field for hay the beginning of the month, if no seed is to be saved; but if it is intended to save the seed, it should be grazed during September, and closed about the first of this month, the crop of hay will be lighter, but the seed will be much better. Manure voided by the cattle should be spread, and docks dug up and burned. See that the fences are in good repair. Shift sheep every fortnight, if in paddocks, to give the grass a start. Attend to the lambing. Shearing will commence at the end of this month. Keep the rams in a small paddock by themselves. Examine the flock every fortnight, and see to their feet, and tag any that may require. The cows will have abundance of grass and winter oats now. Store stock can find for themselves. See that the pigs have plenty of food. Attend to the young litters. Give a dry bed, and a little milk. Keep the sow in condition. Grass may be sown with success this month, for it frequently succeeds better on clay soils sown in the spring, than in autumn, as the crickets in the autumn and wet winter destroy many of the young plants.

NOVEMBER.

Sow sorgam sacharatum at the beginning of this month, in drills two feet apart, thin out to eighteen inches in the row, drill one inch deep, on good land broken up some time previous. No insect will touch this crop; you can cut it two or three times in the season. It is valuable food for horses and pigs, there is more nourishment in a crop of this, than in maize in the green state. Swede and mangold wurzel, the main crop may be got in, on good friable soil, drill two feet asunder with bone dust or guano, two and a half hundred weight per imperial acre. The ground ought to have two ploughings a good depth, and harrowed very fine. There is a good deal of expense attached to these crops here as labor is high, and I question whether it would pay if your farm is situated far from a town, but for dairy purposes nothing could pay better, and it gives a return of good rich manure. We ought to try to convert as much as possible into manure, as it is the back bone of all good farming, es-

THE FIELD, BY DAVID HAY.

pecially on poor soils. White Belgian carrot may be sown in the beginning, on well prepared land, eighteen inches between the rows, thin out to four or six inches in the row. Haymaking is better deferred till the first week or end of next month, as November is sometimes wet, it answers to April or May in England. Hay cut this month is generally injured. Mares with their foals will require good feed, likewise cows in full milk. Sucking calves must have plenty milk; never stint any young thing that is growing into money. Pigs will require attention, especially those intended for bacon next May. Give them plenty of roots and leaves from the cabbages. Plant out drumhead cabbage for autumn. This is a nutritious plant. Farmers and dairymen in particular would find a few acres of this cabbage of great service to them in the summer months. Cabbage increases the quality of the milk and the butter made from it, is free from unpleasant flavour.

DECEMBER.

Haymaking must be commenced, and become general about the latter end of the month; but if the weather is at all unsettled it is better to let it alone for a time: you must watch a good opportunity – far better let it spoil standing than when cut down. The seed is the thing to look to, try to secure it without rain if possible. The best way is not to have much down at a time: have everything in readiness before-hand, so that you may have no interruption. Cut one day, and you may secure it the next. Mould up potatoes after flat hoeing, and also maize; thin the latter for green food as necessary. See that the caterpillars do not attack the oats, if so cut them down for hay. Keep docks and noxious weeds from seeding. Carrots hoe and thin. Mangolds hoe, thin, and transplant. Swedish turnips hoe and thin. Drumhead cabbage plant out; hoe those planted out last month, and mould up; give them plenty of room. Sugar grass hoe and transplant. Maize sow broadcast or in drills for green food in the autumn. Attend to the green crops; see to getting them underway, as the dry weather is at hand. The end of this month is the time to think about breaking up new land, if it is not too hard,

clearing and burning; but do not attempt too much in one season. What you do, do well, and it will repay you for your labour. Working bullocks are the best for this sort of work, as they take it very steady; but with bullocks you require two men at the plough, whereas with horses one will do. But as bullocks live so much cheaper than horses, they are to be preferred to horses, at least with beginners. Try to get under the fern roots, and expose them to the sun and air for a month, then drag, burn, and cross plough, and you will not be troubled much afterwards with fern coming up in your pastures. Fern root runs down in loose soils about twenty inches. As it is difficult to get the plough so deep, the best plan is to stock hard with cattle and plough up again.

THE GARDEN.

JANUARY.

Cabbages and savoys plant about the beginning of the month, if the weather is not too dry, two feet by eighteen inches, in rich ground. Also drumhead cabbages, for cattle, two and a half feet by two feet, in rich ground. Brocoli, two feet by twenty inches, in rich ground. Cauliflowers, a few, two feet apart each way. French beans, beginning, in rows three feet apart, two inches asunder. Dwarf peas, last sowing, on well manured ground, three feet apart. Celery, plant out in ridges four feet apart, seven inches in row. Cast a trench out one foot deep and one foot wide, throw the soil right and left on both sides, fill in six inches manure in the bottom, dig it up, plant after a good storm of rain, shade with branches for a few days, mould up as it progresses, give frequent waterings in dry weather. Persevere in hoeing and thinning all crops that require it, and burning all vegetable matter and weeds. Mould up late planted potatoes and cabbages. Look out for slugs in showery weather. Clear off all refuse crops, and dig the ground. Stake late sown peas. Gather cape gooseberries for preserving. All seeds must be gathered as they ripen,

THE GARDEN, BY DAVID HAY.

put in bags, and hung in an airy place. Sow stone turnips in the beginning of the month, a few only. Sow cabbage and cauliflower for autumn planting. Leeks transplant same as celery, two feet by six inches. Radish, lettuce, mustard, and cress, for a succession, sow every month.

FEBRUARY.

Dig or trench the ground as the summer crops become exhausted, and fill their places with winter and spring produce. Hoe and stir the soil among growing crops. Destroy weeds and insects. Sow cabbage for winter and spring crops. Sow endive and lettuce for winter use. Sow cauliflowers. Sow onions for winter and spring use. Sow peas, early sorts, on dry ground, for the chance of a late dish. Sow turnips, a small quantity, in drills fifteen inches apart. Plant brocoli, late varieties, in rich soil, for spring use. Mould up celery, and also cardoons, in dry weather. The different sorts of seeds will be coming to maturity; lose no time in gathering them in, as a shower of rain will thrash many out if left too long. Leeks mould up in trenches. Mould up and hoe all crops as they advance. Attend to the burning of all rubbish, and prepare spare ground for the main winter crops next month, as rain may be looked for. Collect bones and shells and char them with other refuse: this is an excellent manure for strong land, and it prevents vermin, if spread on the surface or drilled in with the crops. Sow a few French beans, although there is not much chance of a good crop. Dig up potatoes as they ripen, and clean the ground, do not expose them to strong sunlight. Mould up kumeras. Melons, cucumbers, see last month. Sow radishes, and also small salads. Gather in herbs as they come in flower. Dry and bottle for winter use.

MARCH.

Look well after the gathering in of all seeds this month, and see to the storing of potatoes in fine weather. Take up onions as the stalks decay. It is a good plan to twist the neck of the green ones at this season, it accelerates the filling up of the bulb, and brings them early to maturity. Plant out cauliflowers about the middle of this

month for winter use. Sow carrots in drills for winter and spring use. Sow turnips, onions, parsley, lettuce, parsnips, and a few spinach, in drills, about the middle of this month, one foot apart, on dry, rich soil. Sow oats on all spare ground, it keeps the weeds and sorrel under in winter. It is better to sow oats than let the ground lie waste; they stop a good many gaps in winter, especially where there is stock, besides improving the ground and making manure. Keep a sharp eye to the collecting of manures; turn all you can to manure, for without that one cannot get on. The land in New Zealand, as well as in England, wants a little, and often, to produce anything like a crop. Hoe and stir among all growing crops, and thin out those sown last month. Finish planting out the brocoli and winter greens. Mould up celery and leeks in fine weather, as they advance. Give liberal waterings to newly planted out plants. Plant out cow cabbages, and hoe and mould up those advancing. See to the burning of all rubbish, and use lime in wet weather to destroy slugs. Accelerate all work as much as possible this month, and get every bit space of ground under crop, before the winter sets in.

APRIL.

Finish storing potatoes. Finish gathering aromatic pot herbs for present use. Carrots advancing. Thin out turnips. Lose no time in getting in the last batch for the season. Plant cabbages out; earth up those advancing. Plant out cauliflours, on dry, rich soil; earth up those previously planted. Plant out celery, the last lot; earth up advancing crop in dry weather; but be particular that the earth does not get into the heart of the plant. The best way is to let it have plenty of head way before moulding at all, and at the last moulding fill up to within three inches of the top. Sow radishes, lettuces, and small salading. Plant out endive in rows of fifteen inches by seven inches asunder. Plant out leeks, last batch; earth up advancing. Store away onions in a dry, airy place. Attend to the clearing away of all spent crops, and get the ground manured and dug for other things. Hoe and mould kidney beans, the last crop. Keep a sharp look out for slugs, and all vermin. Dust lime over the newly

THE GARDEN, BY DAVID HAY.

sown crops. Salt is a very good thing to sow over vacant ground a few weeks before cropping, it destroys the larvae that is in the ground. Attend to the gathering in of all the seeds as they arrive at maturity. Cut down old parsley, and sow for succession rhubarb, seakale, and asparagus. Keep clear of weeds. Mould up kumeras, and use as required. Clear all refuse from the walks and paths, as it only fosters insects. Finish clearing and burning. Occupy waste ground with oats and vetches to keep down weeds. The stubble, dug in, is a good preparation for potatoes.

MAY.

Thin out carrots and turnips, hoe between in dry weather. Mould up celery in dry weather, also leeks. Sow a little parsley in a bed, and plant out in spring. Attend to advancing crops. Cauliflowers planted in January will be fit for use; by planting out a few every month for the last three months, it will give a succession throughout the winter. Sow a little seed now for spring planting. Sow lettuce, and plant out. Dig all vacant ground as the crops come off, and crop with green food, even although you have to dig it in, in the spring; a few pigs will convert all your refuse into meat and manure. French beans will be almost over. See to preserving a stock of seeds for next year. The weeds are very troublesome now, eradicate them as much as possible from seed beds and young plants, and keep everything in good order. In season: carrots, parsnips, turnips, onions, celery, leeks, cauliflours, cabbages, and salads. Radishes may still be sown. Tie up endive for blanching. The last crop of the cape gooseberries may be gathered in. Cut down asparagus; fork over the top of the beds, and add manure or seaweed to the surface; keep the beds well up, to throw off the water, and dig the paths. Clear away the dead leaves from seakale, and dig the ground up, incorporating the manure. Take up, Jerusalem artichokes as required. Dress cardoons for the winter Get the work well forward now, if possible.

JUNE.

Sow cabbage about the middle of the month, and cauliflower to plant out in spring. Early potatos plant on

a dry piece of ground; they will come in in October. Ash leaf, fluke kidney, round white potato to begin with. Whole sets should be used for early crops in preference to pieces. Sow radishes and lettuces, mustard and cress. Plant beans for spring use, in rows three feet apart. Sow early peas three feet spart between the rows. A few turnips may be sown now, but it is rather early. Earth up celery and leeks in fine weather. Attend to all advancing crops, and clear away all the decaying crops, for they only harbour insects. Kumeras take up, and put in a dry place, if not already done. Examine the potatoes, onions, and the crops that are stored, to see that they are sound. Dig up spare ground. Attend to the weeding of onions, and the thinning of advancing crops. Rhubarb may be thrown out of the ground, and planted in well trenched and manured ground. New beds for asparagus may now be prepared; cast out, right and left, one foot below the surface, three and a half feet wide to the length required. Dig in the trench six inches of manure, throw on six inches mould from the sides, then add another layer of manure and mould, till you raise the bed nine inches above the surface level, sprinkling a little salt between each layer, then smooth the top, and insert the plants, in rows three feet apart by nine inches in the rows; throw two or three inches of fine soil on the top, and a little manure on the surface.

JULY.

If the ground can be got in working order, sow onions this month; but if the ground is wet, defer till next month. You may continue to sow early peas, beans, cabbage, and salads for succession. A few more early potatoes may be put in. You must not move the herbs till next month, as they are liable to suffer from wet. As regards the main crop of onions, the middle of this month is a very good time, if the ground will work; choose a clear piece of ground after peas or potatoes; manure and dig in April; half dig it over now, then with a drill-rake with three wooden teeth nine inches apart from tooth to tooth, proceed to draw three lines one inch deep; proceed with the next three, parallel to the last, and so on, till the ground is all drilled; then sow the seed. White

THE GARDEN, BY DAVID HAY.

Spanish I find is the best for the climate. You may sow artificial manure at the same time, giving bone dust the preference. Rake the surface smoothly with a coarse, iron-toothed rake. When they make their appearance above ground, sow lime over them occasionally to preserve them from slugs; the best time is a quiet, still night about nine o'clock, then the lime lays hold of them. If you repeat this for two or three evenings, you will banish all the slugs. This applies to more than the onions, as carrots and turnips require the same treatment and the same depth of drills. Mould up celery on fine days. Clear off decaying crops and give to the pigs. Dig vacant ground, and economise manure. Thin the crops that were neglected last month. Clear seed beds of weeds.

AUGUST.

Get all the ground dug and manured, as next month will be a busy month getting in the main crops. Early peas may be sown, to have a succession, sow as soon as the others are up, or sow a few every month. Lettuce the same. The cabbages that were sown in June will be ready to plant out in a well-prepared piece of ground, likewise a few cauliflowers. Beans, plant for a succession, put in a few potatoes. The flower borders and beds ought to be dug up, and clear all rubbish away. Cut in anything that is growing too strong. Divide flower roots and plant bulbs – weed walks; it gives a place a neat appearance. Grass edgings may be put down, and the edges of established ones cut. Look after slugs in moist weather and use lime. Let all refuse go to the pigs, they will turn you out good manure in return. Onions, sow, if not done last month. Parsnips, sow main crops on deep ground. Carrots, sow a few towards the end of the month for early use. Turnips, sow a few to succeed the autumn sown. Celery, mould up the last crop in dry weather. Rhubarb, plant and manure well. Seakale plant. Asparagus, sow and plant. Plant for seed, carrots, onions, leeks, turnips, cabbage, parsnips, and other sorts. Select a good piece of ground and plant in rows two feet between and six inches in the rows. Select well shaped medium sized roots, straight

and well formed of the previous year's growth, and keep the brassica or cabbage tribe, as far as your space will admit of, one sort from another, so that they may not mix together.

SEPTEMBER.

Sow herbs, thyme, sage, fennel, marjoram, sweet basil, and winter savory. Take up all beds, divide and replant on light dry soil, add a little well decomposed manure. Sow cabbage and cauliflower, radishes, beans, and peas for succession. Sow carrots and turnips, brocoli, green curled savoy, brussels sprouts, red cabbage, leeks, parsley, lettuce, celery, red and white mustard and cress. Beet, sow main crop. Drumhead and other cabbages plant out. Potatoes plant. Hoe and earth up advancing crops. Horse-radish ought to be replanted in trenches, such as for celery; insert the crown of a stem one foot under the surface, and it will shoot up straight; in two years it will be fit for use, plant a few crowns every year for succession. Onions may still be sown. Hoe, hand weed, and thin out, or make up advancing crops. Scarlet runners, sow a few. As this is a busy time sow in dry weather, dig and trench in wet if the soil is not heavy. Look well after slugs, or they will have the crops devoured as soon as they are through the ground; apply lime, and hand pick mornings and evenings. Where you observe a crop fail, sow again before the ground gets covered with weeds. Keep all decayed crops cleared away, and useless cabbage leaves, as they only breed insects and slugs: a little salt sown over a piece of ground that has been cropped with the cabbage tribe is a good preventive, but it must not be repeated too often – once in two or three years is often enough, as it makes the ground too wet, and it runs together too much. With regard to the rotation of cropping. An exhausting crop should never follow on the same ground under three or four years. Onions after peas, celery after cabbage, carrots after light crops, cabbages after onions, potatoes after cabbage, cauliflower after celery, and so on.

OCTOBER.

Complete all ground alterations as soon as possible, such as gravelling walks, and laying down edgings. In

THE GARDEN, BY DAVID HAY.

dry weather hoe and stir the surface and sow seeds; in showery weather plant out growing crops. Sow cabbage for succession; all the cabbage tribe may be sown now. Sow cauliflower, broad beans the last sowing. Sow peas for succession, if very dry, drench the drill with water, sow and cover up, stick advancing crops and hoe between them. The first sown peas will be in fruit, be careful in gathering so as not to break the vine. Kidney beans and scarlet runners may now be planted three feet from row to row, and three inches in the row. Sow turnips for succession, and the main crops of carrots may be sown in drills nine inches asunder. Keep a sharp look out for slugs, especially on the carrots and kidney beans. Sow celery and parsley, melons, cucumbers, vegetable marrow, pie melon, water melon, and pumpkins, in good rich ground; raise the ground a little before sowing and give manure. Capsicums and tomatos may be sown. Flower seeds may be sown now, the small seeds merely want raking in on a smooth surface, it is a great error to bury seeds too deep in the ground. Hoe, thin out, and and weed advancing crops. Stick peas, and pinch the tops off broad beans when in flower. See that nothing goes to waste. Potatoes may still be planted. The late celery trenches may be trenched up and planted with cauliflower. Transplant onions to fill up vacant ground. See to the crops coming through the ground, that they are not carried off with slugs; sow lime over them, and repeat it two or three times, and it will drive them away.

NOVEMBER.

Finish planting the main crops; hoe, weed, and thin out all the advancing crops; dig and crop all vacant ground; keep weeds from going to seed; trim and cut furze hedges; attend to neatness and cleanliness about a garden, and do not let the weeds take the place of a crop. Sow lettuce, cress, and radishes for salads. Sow beet and cabbage for succession. Stick peas and sow for succession. Transplant in showery weather. Finish melon and cucumber sowing the end of the month, and transplant any that are too thick, two or three are enough in one place; give each a little decayed or decomposed

manure. Pumpkins plant, two together, eight or twelve feet from one another; stop the main shoots when they begin to run, and stop a shoot that fruit is formed on at the first or second leaf above the fruit, as it throws the strength into the fruit. Mould up potatoes, and save some of the early ones for seed. Stake scarlet runners, and put in the last crop. Sow kidney beans. Pick out celery. Rhubarb, pick for use, the outer tier of leaves; do not take many off a root at one time. Asparagus beds must be let run to seed, as the season is over. Seakale likewise. Attend to the creepers round the house; prune and tie them up as they advance beyond their support. Flower borders hoe and rake. Cut down decaying flowers. Take up bulbs, as the tops wither. Mow lawns and edgings. Get everything finished in this department for the haymaking and harvest next month. Save some of the best sort of peas for seed, and others as they ripen. Sow turnips for a succession, as well as carrots, &c. Sow herbs; divide and plant out on dry soil.

DECEMBER.

Hoe deeply and frequently, destroying weeds, and leaving the soil light and porous. Thin all crops which have been sown too thick. Sow kidney beans if wanted late. Sow cabbage and cauliflower for autumn. Sow in a cool place, endive, lettuce, radishes, and small salad for succession crops. Plant out celery in trenches, seven inches from plant to plant, three or four feet between the rows; give plenty of water and shade from strong sunlight; six inches of manure under it. Turnips may still be sown on moist rich ground. Last sowing of peas can be put in on rich ground; stake the advancing crops. Stop and train tomatos, and allow no more fruit to form after the first four or six branches are set. Sow a little parsley now for winter use. Look well to the ingathering of the different sorts of seeds, and store away some of the early sorts of potatoes in a cool place for planting in June. See that the creepers around the dwelling are trained, walks cleaned, and borders hoed. Cut grass edgings, &c. Cut herbs when in flower. Dry and bottle for winter use, some of the tender sorts. They

THE ORCHARD, BY DAVID HAY.

will be growing fast now, such as sweet basil, sweet marjoram, winter savory, fennel, thyme, sage and borage. Use liquid manure for watering, if possible; put some manure in a butt and stir it well, let it stand twenty-four hours before using it. Use it to strong feeders, such as cabbage, peas, cucumbers, &c. For the next two months, or sometimes up to the middle of March, make it a rule to sow as little as possible: the weather being so dry, and the ground dry and hot. Seeds sown then seldom vegetate, and they are liable to be carried off by insects or burned up as they come through the ground.

THE ORCHARD.

JANUARY.

Bud towards the end, apples, pears, plums, cherries, &c. Pinch strong growing shoots three or four inches off the top; preserve a uniformity of growth. Clear all the suckers from gooseberry trees as they appear, likewise from other trees. Raspberries, clear all suckers except three or four in close proximity to the parent plant, for next year's bearing. Gather fruit as it ripens. Strawberries hoe and clean; save a few runners for autumn planting, pumpkins, vegetable marrows, and pie melons. Keep clear of weeds, thin the vines, and train the shoots from a centre to a circumference, stop the second joint above the fruit. Melons and cucumbers serve the same as the above. Vines; remove laterals or shoots proceeding from the sides; thin the branches; stop the shoots at the second joint above the fruit; all superfluous wood remove in the growing season with the finger and thumb; do not remove the laterals below the fruit, or the dormant bud that is to bear fruit next season may break into leaf; pinch the lateral at the second joint. If there is much fruit on the plants, they would be better if some liquid manure, such as guano water or soap suds (one pint guano to four gallons of water) was applied to them. Stir the surface round all newly planted trees, and water if necessary with weak guano water.

FEBRUARY.

Attend to the gathering in of all ripe fruits. Strawberries will be nearly over; remove all runners that are not required for young plants, hoe and weed between the rows. Raspberries as last month. Cape gooseberries pick for preserving; keep an eye on the poultry, as they are very fond of them. Tomatos will be ripening their fruit; thin the vines, and lay sticks under them, or what is better, train along a fence. Capsicums gather as they ripen, apply liquid manure to the roots. See to the young trees, that no shoots are taking the lead of their neighbours, apply the finger and thumb, use no knife to trees in full growth. Pinch young shoots back that are crossing each other in the centre of the trees. Trees budded last month will require to be examined and the ties loosened; any that have not taken must be done over again on the opposite side of the stock. Clip and cut hedges. Look well to the shelter of fruit trees, and sticking against wind. Do not expose the branches of vines too much to the sun; leave a few leaves over them, as they are liable to be scorched.

MARCH.

Not much can be done this month, except the gathering in of the fruit as it ripens. Do not expose the fruit too much to the influence of the sun, or it will ripen prematurely without flavour. Keep down weeds round newly planted trees. Trench up ground for trees for next autumn and winter. Attend to vines, and expose the wood for next year's crop to the influence of the sun; thin out lateral branches. Keep down all suckers as they appear. Attend to the cutting offences. Bud roses this month, and attend to the directions for last month as regards loosening the ties, and if any have failed, make up without loss of time. Cucumbers and melons. Attend to the gathering in of the fruit, and stopping and watering if weather very dry. Strawberry runners may be left on the plants till May, if young plants are required. Tomatos may be gathered as they ripen. Chillies likewise. Gather late peaches for preserving. Eradicate seed weeds. Most kinds of apples and pears should be

THE ORCHARD, BY DAVID HAY.

gathered during dry weather, and to ascertain whether they are ready for gathering, raise them gently, and if they part readily from the tree, or if on cutting one through the middle the seeds are becoming brown, they may be taken; early kinds should be gathered before they are quite ripe.

APRIL.

All fruits must be looked after now. Apples must be stored away as they ripen. Figs, look once every two days for ripe fruit, as they soon ripen when they begin to change colour. Pears gather in as they ripen. Peaches will be nearly all over, except a few late sorts, and they are the best for preserving. Plums will be over, except a few late sorts. Cape gooseberries will be in a fine state for preserving now. Look after the seeds of cucumbers and melons, save seed from the finest fruit. Gather in pumpkins as they arrive at maturity; lay them by in an airy place, on shelves, or hang them up in flax nets. Pie melons will require to be served as the above. Vegetable marrow also. Grapes will now be ripening. You can preserve a few bunches of the thick-skinned sorts, such as black hambro', for a few weeks longer, by cutting a piece of wood along with the branch, and hanging them up in a cool, dry house or shed. Remove all tendrils and lateral shoots, so that the wood may be well ripened for another season. Gather in tomatos for preserving. Keep strawberries clear of weeds. Raspberries, keep down runners, and reserve a few good canes for next year's bearing. Tie up any long shoots of young trees that are likely to get damaged by the wind.

MAY.

This is a very quiet month. As the sap is still in motion, it is as well to defer the moving of fruit trees till the leaves are shed, or the young wood will not be matured if moved before. Plantations of gooseberries may now be put down: trench the ground two feet deep and incorporate a quantity of decomposed manure around the plants, when they are planted, distance apart every way four feet at least; in planting do not put them more than two inches under ground, and heap the soil up

around them. Plantations of strawberries may be made toward the end of this month. Get a good piece of ground inclining to the north, trench two feet deep, manure on top of the trenched ground, half dig it in; plant in moist weather, two feet asunder and one and a half foot apart in the row. Select good strong runners of the same year's growth, if taken up with a little mould adhering to the roots so much the better. Kean's seedling I find the best for a crop. Raspberries, prepare the ground as for gooseberries, and plant next month. Currants, plant, see gooseberries. Keep down weeds. Gather in any of the late fruit. Prepare ground for planting next month. See that young trees are secured against the wind. Clear off the crops of pumpkins, vegetable marrow, pie melons, &c.

JUNE.

Transplant and prune vines. Make new plantations. Look out a well sheltered situation north by east, trench two feet deep, plant four or five feet apart every way. Bones and well rotted manure are the best to put with them. Prune down to within an eye or two of the old wood, and keep them near the surface of the ground, four feet stakes one to each is sufficient, or arch two rows over a trellis, then the fruit will hang inside and you may have a walk in the centre. Plant figs and quinces on low moist ground, well drained and well sheltered, Pears, on rather dry soil, dig round and manure. Not much pruning required for a few years, but it ought to be done in the growing seasons. Apples, soil rather moist. Never put a tree deeper in the ground than it has been before, rather mould the soil up round it. They do not require a sheltered situation, rather the reverse, as the blight attacks them in sheltered situations. Take up young trees in a healthy growing state, the soil should be annually dug, and the spare ground cropped with pumpkins and potatoes, or vegetable marrows, anything that will keep the ground clear of weeds, and not impoverish the soil. Ten or twelve feet is distance enough apart for most of our fruit trees. Cherries, destroy all their suckers as they appear. Plums, ditto, and transplant if required. Transplant thorns for hedges,

THE ORCHARD, BY DAVID HAY.

it makes the best of all hedges in strong soils, and the cheapest to keep in order.

JULY.

The less that is planted this month the better, for we generally have very heavy cold rains and high winds, the roots are liable to get rotten and blown about with the wind. Far better defer planting now till the middle of next month, the ground will be getting drier and firmer, and the trees more inured to cold. A tree will never do any good where water lodges round it, its small fibres decay, and it is a chance if it ever will recover – it takes the greater part of the following season to get established. Continue to dig vacant ground in dry weather, and dig or fork round all newly planted trees. Prepare lines for planting and sowing hedge rows. Plant forest trees for shelter on the wind side. Continue to dress vines if omitted last month. Prune gooseberry and currant trees; put in cuttings from the ripest of the wood – insert the cuttings four inches in the ground and six inches above, tread them firmly in. Raspberries may be taken up, and re-plant the same season's growth; give manure. Trees may be put down on dry ground, never put the roots lower than the surface level, use burnt ashes and decomposed manure well incorporated together, half a barrow lode to a tree, mould it round the stem of the tree, so that the water may drain off, trench the ground twelve feet deep previous to planting. Plant alternately in rows ten or twelve feet apart.

AUGUST.

See that the strawberries are dug, and cleared of all weeds, then throw some manure over the surface of the ground, that the gentle rain may wash it in. Raspberries and gooseberries may be done the same way. Fruit trees must be put down, and all planting completed towards the end of this month. Suckers and cuttings planted for stocks for budding and grafting next year. Grafting may be done this month. Fill up all vacancies and trench the ground two feet deep under each tree. Throw some manure round the stems of newly planted trees, See that the fences are in good order, and make

and plant new ones. Apple trees will require a little pruning and must be done directly. Peaches, cut away the small unripened wood from the centre of the trees, and shorten the other shoots to six or nine inches, or to the triple buds, cut out any shoots that cross each other, or that are badly placed. Shorten apples a little, especially those that are running away. Keep the trees well balanced on all sides.

SEPTEMBER.

Finish off all planting in this department, digging and manuring. See that the trees are secured against wind. Towards the end of the month plant lemons, limes, citrons, oranges, pomegranates, figs, and any of the more tender sorts of fruit trees, in well sheltered situations; manure with bone dust. The north-east side of a gully low down is the best for any of the above-mentioned plants. Protect for the first three months, and they will then take care of themselves. See that the orchard is clear of weeds, and that all the trees are dressed. Finish sowing furze for hedges. The kangaroo acacia for a fence you cannot depend on, as it is liable to die, and leave gaps. Privet and thorn mixed make a very good evergreen fence. Cattle are liable to eat the privet. Holly is too expensive, the yew will poison your cattle. Willow makes a good fence in low ground. Thorn cuttings put down previous to coming into leaf, taken off with a peel, or at a joint of the previous year's wood, will take root and grow, and make a good fence. Cape gooseberries can be divided, and replanted on good rich soil. Cuttings of the old wood can be put in, likewise seed of them may be sown; they grow best planted on the slopes of gullies. The vines will be coming into leaf, rub off any buds that are not wanted, see to the training of the same. Complete all suckers and cuttings planting for stocks. See that every piece of ground is clear from weeds. Any tree seeds may now be sown. Quinces make a good fence, they will root from cuttings. It makes a durable fence and grows fast.

OCTOBER.

Presuming that the trees are planted and under way, keep the hoe at work in fine weather, The peach will

THE GARDEN, BY DAVID HAY.

be the first requiring your attention, thin the fruit on young trees, do not leave more than two or three on a shoot, and if there is no leaf at the axilla, the angle formed by the separation of a leaf from its stem, of the peach take it away as it will never be good, nor ripen; if a good shoot is coming away with the peach, pinch it back to within half an inch of the base, with the thumb and fore-finger just above the fruit, that throws the strength of the shoot into the fruit, leave one or two shoots where there is no fruit, to make wood for bearing next year; leave the best placed shoots, keep the tree open in the centre, and balance it on all sides; by so doing your trees will be productive for many years. Gooseberries and currants, keep them clear of weeds and destroy suckers as soon as they appear. Raspberries the same. Finish grafting if not already done. Vines will be beginning to run, thin out some of the young shoots that do not show fruit; stop the shoots that have fruit on, at a first or second joint above the fruit. If there is much fruit, water with guano water, and mulch or cover the surface with straw, leaves, litter, &c., half rotten. Figs, clear them of all suckers, and stop the side shoots when they have made five or six inches of new wood; with the thumb and fore – finger pinch the extreme bud out, and fruit will break forth from the base of every leaf, and will ripen fine fruit in the autumn. If any have stood the winter, they will be fast coming to maturity. If you want the tree to increase in height, leave a few of the leaders unpinched.

NOVEMBER.

Strawberries will be in full bearing now; look over them and pull the fruit as it ripens. See that the slugs are kept away with lime or sea-weed, the latter is an excellent manure, and it preserves the fruit from mould and dirt; pinch the fruit in dry weather for preserving, keep them clear of weeds and runners. Cape gooseberries, old plants will require looking over once a week, gather any ripe fruit for puddings as they appear. English gooseberries and currants, keep the bushes clear from suckers and weeds, thin the fruit for preserving. Mulch late planted fruit trees. Cut away any suckers

from newly grafted or budded trees as they appear. Tie up any shoots that are likely to be damaged by the wind. Apples, thin, that is when two or three are in a cluster remove them all but one. Pears, do the same. Thin all fruits, more especially if the trees are young. Pinch any young shoots that are running away. Keep the trees low and well formed. Pie melons and pumpkins finish planting among the trees, they will keep the weeds down and the surface cool. Also – lemons, oranges, citrons, limes, guavas, and olives if not already planted. Attend to stopping and cutting away the suckers and useless shoots of vines. Attend to the live fences, keep them clear of weeds for the first three years, and they will take care of themselves afterwards. Keep them down that they may form a good foundation. Cut them twice a year if thorn, three times if furze. If you want a good hedge for your orchard, plant quince, south american plum, and rosa multiflora, all mixed together, no wind can penetrate such a fence, and you can have it any height under 30 feet. Cut the sides up with a hook.

DECEMBER.

The trees will not require much attention just now, if they are mulched over the surface. Run the hoe through them occasionally to keep weeds down. Collect all rubbish and burn it, spread the ashes, and sow seeds between the trees. Look to the melons and cucumbers, leave some of the best formed to ripen seed; the same with pumpkins, pie melons, and vegetable marrows. If you have recourse to watering, let it be done in the evening after sun-down; never water when the sun is up, as it will cause the ground to evaporate and harden much more rapidly than before. When once you begin watering, you must continue it nightly till the rain comes. In watering cucumbers, avoid wetting the leaves. Dress hedges, clear young ones of weeds. See to the keeping of everything in order, and see that tools are cleaned and put in their proper places when done with, so that they may be found in good order when next wanted. During this and next month fruit ripens: cherries, gooseberries, strawberries, currants, peaches, and plums, (the last two about the end of this month,) raspberries, cape gooseberries, &c,

FARM MANAGEMENT...

FARM MANAGEMENT, BY JOSEPH MAY.

FARM MANAGEMENT,

ARRANGED FOR THE

SEASONS AND CLIMATE OF NEW ZEALAND,

BY JOSEPH MAY.

JANUARY.

This is the harvest month in the northern parts of New Zealand. Farmers should be careful not let their crops get too ripe before they commence the reaping, if left till quite ripe a strong breeze of wind sometimes shakes out a great quantity of the grain. Wheat should be cut when the stalk is yellow the whole length, and the head still upright. The advantages of reaping the wheat crop early are, the grain is not shed, and the sample as compared with that cut dead ripe is brighter, it contains more flower and less bran per bushel, and the straw, if used for fodder, contains more easily digestible nutritive matter. Oats frequently ripen unevenly, and should be cut early, if any unripe heads are left in the straw after thrashing, it will be better fodder, but if left until the whole of the crop is ripe, the first ripened will be shed on the ground. Barley has not succeeded well in new land, but after turnips fed off with sheep, fine samples have been produced. Many of our volcanic lands are to all appearance soils adapted to the growth of barley; it is probable that the grass lands now brought under the plough would grow good even crops, it does appear strange that the Auckland brewers are still obliged to import their barley. Handreaping in the mother country with the sickle has given place to the scythe, the latter being more speedy; but the scythe is now fast giving way to the reaping machine: the advantages of hand-reaping here are that it is cut higher than it can be done with the scythe, causing a saving in carting, stacking, and more particularly in thrashing, their being much less straw to pass through

the machine. Some farmers harvest oats and barley in the same manner as hay, without tying it into sheaves; but it is doubtful whether any thing is saved by it as it is less convenient for carting, stacking, and thrashing. In settled fine weather the stacking is dispensed with, by thrashing out the grain at once, thereby performing the work in fine weather and long days, saving the expense of stacking and thatching, and removing the grain to a place safe from rats and mice, while the roads are dry and the carting easily done. If the grain is stacked it should be immediately thatched, there is more grain damaged here through carelessness in the field, and neglect of thatching the stacks, than is lost unavoidably.

FEBRUARY.

After the grain is removed from the field, and the lands cleaned of weeds, grass, &c., with stock, the plough should be at work, a good fallow can be made here after harvest, which the farmer will find it to be his interest to attend to. By clearing his land as much as possible of weeds and insects (slugs, &c., are invariably found under stubble or other decomposing organic matter) he will at the same time be pulverising the soil, and liberating food for the succeeding crop. All weeds and rubbish should be burnt, which is an easy method of getting them out of the way, and the ashes are a good manure. Cape barley and oats may be sown this month for green fodder, they may not vegetate very evenly, but if in the ground they will be in readiness for the first rain. Continue to sow maize for green food, it may be ploughed in shallow in every third furrow, then it will come up in rows and will be more easily cleaned; sow from three to four bushels per acre; if the crop is thick the stalks will be finer and form better food. About sixteen or seventeen years ago grass and clover seed were sown in this month, but now they would be destroyed by the crickets which have lately been introduced into New Zealand and are very destructive to young plants. As these enemies of the farmer seem to be increasing, self-interest should encourage New Zealand farmers to introduce rooks and other birds that live upon insects.

FARM MANAGEMENT, BY JOSEPH MAY.

MARCH.

[Autumn begins.] Some maize may be sown in the early part of this month, a large crop must not be expected but it will come in for late cutting. Sow turnip, rape, clover and grass seed, if the land is fallowed and clear of crickets; but if these pests are even in the adjoining land they are likely to move on to young grass and do much injury; all seeds should, if possible, be covered. This is generally a dry month; all bush ready for burning should be burnt off during this month. The days begin to shorten, and the sun to be less powerful, and after rain, wood seldom burns off well. If the bush is cleared and intended for grass, it is well to sow as early as possible, if showery weather, to get the plants advanced before the heavy rains, but if the weather continue dry, the sowing had better be deferred until April. In sowing on the surface early, and in dry weather, the seed being moistened with the dew, partially vegetates, the hot sun again dries it up, and destroys it; but in cultivated lands, where the seed can be covered with the harrow, it is protected from the rays of the sun, and, if good, will do well. The ram should be turned to the ewes this month if there is to be plenty of food for the lambing ewes in August. If potatoes are ripe for digging, proceed with the work. It is a great advantage in cleaning the land to take up this crop early. Where there is a large breadth of potatoes, it is usual to plough them out, the pickers following the plough. It is not so clean a way as the fork, but where labour is high and scarce, it is necessary to expedite the work to use the plough, even if some of the potatoes are left in the soil. If the potatoes are pitted, which is perhaps as good a plan as any, for three months, they should be first covered with straw, rushes, or fern, but on no account use the haulm, as they have been found to contain the eggs of the moth, which will be hatched, and perhaps destroy the potatoes. The sides of the pits might be covered with earth, but not to the top, because the potatoes heat, and if it is not allowed to escape it will rot them, but care should be used to keep them dry during the winter.

APRIL.

Fine weather generally in this month, with some showers; if sufficient moisture, grass grows well; the autumn is more congenial than the spring, being less subject to cold wind. The sowing of oats may be still continued for green food, more particularly on land foul with small weeds, such as sorrel, &c.; after the grain or potato harvest, such lands should be well fallowed, the weeds and rubbish burnt – the farmer is recommended then to sow such lands with oats, three bushels to the acre, to be grazed or cut in September or October; the crop of oats during the winter will rot down all small weeds, it should then, after being well grazed out, be ploughed and well laid down with grass and clover, sowing at the same time two bushels of maize per acre. This would shade the young grass and clover from the scorching summer's sun, and would be found fine feed for cattle about the following March, when green food is scarce and the ground firm. The system of grazing off a crop of oats or cape barley on seeds, with cattle, during the wet winter months is injurious to the young grass and clover plants, and leaves the land with an uneven surface. If September lambs will be soon enough for the farm the rams should be with the ewes this month. At present this appears the best month for sowing grass and clover seed, as about the middle of the month the crickets become weaker and will do little harm excepting in very warm situations.

MAY.

If the land for the wheat is in a fit state, commence sowing; about 14 bushels per acre will be found enough if the seed is good and properly covered in; this is less than is usually sown broadcast in England, but our winter being mild, no plants are destroyed by frost, and few birds to injure it. In New South Wales one bushel only per acre is sown, and found at harvest to be as thick as a crop in the old country from three bushels. There is much difference of opinion with farmers on the subject of thick and thin sowing. Some contending that poor soils should be sown thick, as the crop is never too

FARM MANAGEMENT, BY JOSEPH MAY.

thick at harvest, and that fertile soils should be sown thin as such soils seldom produce thin crops. Others take the opposite view and say that poor land should be sown thin as the soil is not able to produce a thick heavy crop and by sowing thick some plants die for want of nutriment, and by their partial growth have deprived the other plants of some of their food and consequently weakened them; and that fertile soils should be sown thick as their strength enables them to perfect a greater number of plants. This latter idea appears the more reasonable; but all early sowing should be thin, as the plans will tiller or spread according to the capabilities of the soil. The late sowings should be something thicker as the plants will have less time to spread, and will be forced on to perfection in a shorter time. The wheat crop varies considerably in different countries, and even in the same country at different seasons. The real value of the wheat crop is not found out until it passes through the bakers hands, one sample may have satisfied the farmer, another sample satisfies farmer and miller, but the baker finds the flour is weak. The value or "strength" of flour as the bakers term it, depends on the amount of "gluten" it contains. Sir Humphrey Davy concluded that wheat grown in a warm climate contained more gluten than that grown in a cold one, he also found more of the same substance in spring wheat than winter; but Boussingault again found the greatest quantity of gluten in winter wheat. Although Davy found the greatest quantity of gluten in spring wheat, this might be on account of the season or the manure applied. The probability is that winter wheat, from its being longer in the ground than the spring kinds, the roots have had more time to collect food, and consequently the grain is likely to be better developed, and more valuable than spring sown wheat, all other things being equal. It is proverbial among farmers that thunder weather is beneficial to the filling up of grain crops. Scientific men have established the fact that rain falling during thunder storms contains more nitrogen in the shape of nitric acid than at other times, and consequently would be more refreshing to vegetation. But whether the cause of this is the ammonia volatilized from

decomposing organic matter, or from the action of the electric spark (lightning,) or the constituents of the air, which are also the constituents of nitric acid, or not, is a matter of doubt. Cavendish was the first to observe that by a continued passage of electric sparks through moist air, its volume diminished, and an acid soluble in water was formed at the same time. This great philosopher proved, by a series of decisive experiments, that the constituents of the air, the nitrogen and oxygen, united to form "nitric acid when exposed to the influence of electricity." If this is correct it is the explanation why wheat grown in or near the tropics, where thunder storms are more frequent than in the temperate regions, contains more gluten than that grown in colder climates; and for this reason, wheat grown in Australia should contain more gluten than that grown in this country, as lightning is much more frequent in Australia than New Zealand, and this is said to be the case.

JUNE.

[Winter begins] – Continue the wheat sowing; all seed should be steeped in some solution to prevent the smut, several receipts are used, composed of lime, salt, &c. Bluestone is a very efficacious substance for destroying the smut, which is a fungus. One pound of bluestone dissolved in seven gallons of water; steep the seed in this solution ten or twelve hours. Lime and salt sometimes partially succeed, but the sulphate of copper is an effectual cure. This is the first winter month, but the winters are very mild in New Zealand, in the northern parts no snow, some hoar frosts, but water is seldom frozen thicker than a penny piece; but the cold showers and frequent rains appear to injure live stock, particularly where there is no shelter or bush to run into, weak and young animals suffering the most. Farmers will find it to their interest to have sheds enclosed in paddocks, void of natural shelter, for cattle to go into in wet weather, bearing in mind always that water causes a loss of heat from animals which is equivalent to a waste of food. Although grass grows here all the winter, it is very watery and less nutritious than spring or summer grasses; most live stock require some

FARM MANAGEMENT, BY JOSEPH MAY.

nutritious food, in addition to grass, during this and the next two succeeding months, and in exposed situations they will be the better of a little good hay up to the middle of September. Good hay is found as good as anything, the grass being excessively watery, the hay will absorb some of it and prevent animals from purging. The farmer at this time will, or ought to be giving his live stock a little extra food. Open drains while the ground is soft, and the water will show the level. Provide plenty of succulent oats, or still better mangolds for milk cows during the winter months.

JULY.

Finish sowing winter wheat, not less than two bushels per acre, in good land it may do well; one advantage in sowing late is that the wheat gets ahead of the small weeds. If the land should be wet it will be better to refrain from sowing winter wheat and put in spring wheat in the following month. In clean dry land the oat and barley sowing may be commenced, from two to three bushels per acre is the quantity used. The advantage of sowing these crops early is to harvest them before the caterpillars make their appearance. Those enemies of the farmer will sometimes destroy a field of twenty acres in three or four days, eating the single seed stalks of oats, the grain falling on the ground. The barley is attacked below the head in the small parts of the straw, and the ground is sometimes covered with the heads. Plant a few early potatoes in dry soils. The arable farmer will have to turn his attention to manures, the value of which depends on the ingredients it contains, the mechanical effect it may have in the soil, and its absorbing power. For instance gypsum is an excellent manure for all leguminous plants, such as clover, peas, &c., it is only found in very minute quantities in the grain crops, but by its power of absorbing ammonia from the atmosphere it becomes a valuable addition to the soil, even for the cereal crops. Again, bulky organic manures, such as farm-yard manure, besides containing all the chemical ingredients, in small quantities, necessary for the growth of plants, effect in clay soils a great mechanical improvement, by increasing porosity, giving

access to air and water, promoting decomposition, and enabling the clay to absorb the ammonia and supply it to the roots of plants, as required. What kind of manures the farmer ought to apply to his land will depend on circumstances, in fact, where, and how, they can be obtained cheapest. If the farmer is situated near a town, or where weighty manures, containing large quantities of water, are plentiful, it may be the cheapest food the farmer can procure for his crops, but if he has to cart manure a long distance, he will find it advantageous to purchase some concentrated manure that is easily transported to the farm. One thing all farmers ought to do, – but is not always done, – that is, to make as much manure as possible on the farm, and take care of it. This after all is his sheet anchor, all special manures may assist, but cannot supersede it. The manure made on the farm will depend in a great measure on the kind of food given to the animals, the richer the food, the richer will be the manure. Dr. Anderson says "of food generally about one-third to one-fourth of the money value and seven-eights of the valuable matter appear in the dung." The manures made on the farm are rich in the two valuable fertilising ingredients, ammonia and phosphoric acid, and that of the sheep especially. Hence the term general manure applied to farm-yard manure because it contains ammonia for the cereal crops, and phosphoric acid for the root crops, and the other necessary matter, as potash, soda, &c. In this mild climate it is not necessary to house ordinary cattle, they generally have hay or some other additional food besides the grass, from three to four months, that is, during June, July August, and a portion of September; in some sheltered situations or where there is bush for them to run into, they require none; but the allusion is to those kept within enclosed paddocks, and under such system, of course, the manure made on the farm is scattered over the grass land. If the New Zealand farmer crops much, and wishes to improve his land, or even keep up its fertility, he must make use of manures. Peruvian guano, if genuine, is a very powerful manure.

FARM MANAGEMENT, BY JOSEPH MAY.

AUGUST.

This is sometimes a trying month for stock in exposed situations; cattle require a little hay as much this month as at any time during the winter: the weather being wet, and the young grass very succulent, they are liable to the scour. Finish sowing oats and barley in all dry soils, as also spring wheat. If the weather permit and the soil is dry, plant potatoes for the main crop, more particularly the last fortnight of this month. C. W. Johnston says, "the manures best suited for the potato crop are common farm yard compost, only partially decomposed, decayed leaves, sea-weed, the potato haulm, and any organic manures, that, while they afford nutriment, have a tendency, by rendering the soil lighter, to facilitate the extension of the roots. Lime is injurious to it. Pond mud, or ditch scrapings, to each cubic yard of which a month previously a bushel of bacon salt, or other refuse common salt, has been mixed is excellent. The soils best adapted for the cultivation of the potato are of the light, sandy, drained, peaty, or loamy description. It delights in fresh soils; those of a newly broken up meadow, old bushlands, or the site of old yards or buildings. It does not do on wet clays." Large crops have been grown here in peaty soils, but the potatoes are invariably watery, and many of them hollow. Many fine crops have also been grown on broken-up grass-lands, but it is doubtful whether the potatoes are equal in quality to those grown on new lands. All decomposing organic matter evolves carbonic acid gas and ammonia, which has a very invigorating effect on young plants, increasing the branches and leaves; these again increase the means of obtaining the food from the atmosphere, hence the great crops of potatoes grown from broken-up meadow-land. Davy says, "I filled a large retort, capable of containing three pints of water, with some hot fermenting manure, consisting principally of the litter and dung of cattle; and adapted a small receiver to the retort, and connected the whole with a mercurial pneumatic apparatus, so as to collect the condensible and elastic fluids which might rise from the dung. The receiver soon became lined with dew, and drops began in

a few hours to trickle down the sides of it. Elastic fluid likewise was generated: in three days thirty-five cubic inches had been formed, which, when analysed, were found to contain twenty-one cubic inches of carbonic acid: the remainder was hydro-carbonate, mixed with some azote, probably no more than existed in the common air in the receiver. The fluid matter collected in the receiver at the same time amounting to nearly half-an ounce. It had a saline taste and a disagreeable smell, and contained some acetate and carbonate ammonia. Finding such products given off from fermented litter, I introduced the beak of another retort, filled with similar dung, very hot at the time, into the soil amongst the roots of some grass in the border of the garden. In less than a week a very distinct effect was produced on the grass. Upon the spots exposed to the influence of the matter disengaged in fermentation, it grew with more luxuriance than the grass in any other part of the garden." This shows the advantage of the system pursued here of planting the potato under the green sod, but it requires careful management. The grass should be eaten down close with sheep before the land is ploughed, and a wheel coulter used, a good square head cut up to the furrow, and as soon as possible harrowed, to prevent the grass and weeds coming up between the furrows, and frequently harrowed until the plant is above the ground. Whole seed should be set neither too small nor too large. It has been found that cut potatoes rot more frequently under the green turf than in a well-wrought loose soil. This is what might be expected, as all decaying matter has a tendency to impart the same action to other substances in contact with them. The decomposing matter in the sward is more likely to communicate the action of decay to a cut potato than to a whole one, more particularly where the soil is anywise stiff, keeping the plant a fortnight longer before it can make its way through the close furrow. This system should only be practised in loose free, clean soils. In all stiff, strong lands, the soil should be well pulverised, and the potatoes set in drills, kept clean, and well moulded up. It has been found by experiments that better crops are produced when the potatoes are set six inches deep than when

FARM MANAGEMENT, BY JOSEPH MAY.

they are set three inches only; and here it is also found that the potatoes near the surface are frequently destroyed by the worm, while those five or six inches deep are free from this pest, and the finer the soil is pulverised the less chance the moth has of depositing her eggs near the potato.

SEPTEMBER.

[Spring begins.] – Sow oats for hay, from three to four bushels per acre; thick sowing will make a finer hay; if grass and clover seeds are sown among the crop, two bushels of oats will be seed enough. It is often a subject of complaint with the New Zealand farmer that his seeds sown with the grain crops have failed, or partially so. This is as might be expected, if the grain crop is a heavy one. The grass and clover plant will be weak, some perhaps destroyed; then at harvest the crop is removed, and the young plants exposed to a scorching sun, in some seasons for weeks, the consequence is that much of the seeds are withered up. But if the grain crop be a thin one, the grass and clover plants will have the benefit of the sun and wind, and consequently be healthier and stronger, and less liable to be injured by the sun after the removal of the grain crop. In the north, finish planting the general crop of potatoes; at this season the land should be well wrought that the plant may soon make its appearance above ground; cut seed may be used; there will be little fear of their rotting except in wet soils. Sow mangold wurzel, swedes and rape; to insure good crops the land should be well pulverised and manured. The latter crop will make good food for sheep in the latter part of the summer when green fodder is scarce, if the aphis does not attack it, which it has done for some years past. Close up the paddocks for hay the beginning of this month, if no seed is to be saved, but if it is intended to save the seed, it should be grazed during the month and closed about the first of next month; the crop of hay will be lighter, but the seed will be much better. Milch cows now come in plentifully and many wisely turn their attention to cheese-making. The average quantity of cheese from a cow in three cheese-making districts in England was 355 lbs., and in our good lands

we may expect as much here; this if well made generally fetches from sixpence to one shilling per pound; but supposing a cow will produce 300 lbs. at one shilling or £15, it is a fair cow that will yield four pounds of butter a week for forty weeks, (which is long enough to milk a cow, the system of milking cows to within a week or two of calving is injurious to cow and calf,) or 160 lbs., this may be considered worth 1s. 3d. per lb., or £10 worth in the year – consequently at our present prices a cheese dairy is more profitable than a butter dairy.

OCTOBER.

Plant potatoes still in the southern parts, and even in the north; in low, damp land good crops may be raised from planting in this month. If the season should be a dry one, a large crop must not be expected, but they would make excellent seed for the following season. Sow oats for hay if required; new beginners will find a few tons of oaten hay very valuable to them in the winter, for working horses, oxen, and cows; serious losses have occurred to beginners in bush, by taking too many stock for the run, and not being provided with some provender for them in the winter. It was recommended in April to sow oats thick on foul land for a rotting crop: now will be the time to work the land well, use the roller, get it fine, and if it be seeded out, sow two bushels of maize, and give it a light ploughing to cover the seed, harrow in the grass seed, and roll down, not stocking the crop until February, when the green maize will be fine feed for horses and cattle, – sheep are not fond of it. Plant cabbages. This is a nutritious plant. Farmers and dairymen in particular would find a few acres of drumhead cabbages of great service to them in the summer months. From the numerous useful qualities of this plant it deserves to be more extensively cultivated as a fodder crop than it is at present. From the fact of its being richer in oil and nitrogenous matter than most other kinds of green food, and at the same time very succulent, its nutritive qualities are not to be wondered at. Cabbage is most valuable as a food for milch cows: it increases the quantity and quality of the milk, and the butter made from it is free from

FARM MANAGEMENT, BY JOSEPH MAY.

any unpleasant flavour, unless the cows are allowed to overgorge themselves with it, for other purposes a more extended use of the cabbage is to be recommended. Plough up land intended for fallow before sorrel and other weeds begin to seed, and before the ground gets hard and dry. Attend to the docks, and root them up as they show themselves. Collect them in heaps, and, when dry, burn them. They are very tenacious of life, but there is no fear of the ashes growing, although some old farmers contended that they would. Cutting docks below the crown in summer will kill some and check the growth of others; but in all cases where they cannot be rooted up, they should be cut to prevent their seeding, always bearing in mind that "one year's seeding will give seven year's weeding." Sheep kill docks, by constantly nibbling them in our dry summer. Keep the hand or horse-hoe going among the potatoes, as soon as the drills can be seen. Plant maize for a crop, in rows about five feet apart, and two feet six inches from hill to hill, dropping five seeds in each hill, cutting off all but three for green food. The land should be kept clean with the hoe, and the plants well earthed up when about a foot high, and again when about two feet six inches high. Maize is a very nutritious grain, but the ninety-day variety only should be cultivated in this province. It is not fit for harvesting until the autumnal showers come, causing great difficulty in getting it dry. The Maoris, after gathering it, strip back the husk, but, not breaking it off, tie it up in bundles of eight or ten cobs, tying two of these bunches together, and hanging it on sticks exposed to all weathers for weeks, until it gets dry; sometimes they hang it up in huts, and dry it with fires. All this is tedious for Europeans when they can grow other crops, such as oats and barley, which will answer the same purpose, and are fit for harvesting in fine weather, and the straw of more value for fodder and manure. Nevertheless, the new beginner in bush-lands could grow some maize, by planting in holes among the stumps, for his pigs, poultry, and horses, if he have any; but oxen are recommended to commence with, they will live cheaper than horses. Where grass is plentiful and much ploughing to do, horses will be the more economical team, as no driver is required.

NOVEMBER.

The crops being now in, every attention should be paid to keep them clean, not forgetting that if weeds are allowed to grow among crops, they are depriving them of a portion of the nutriment required. Hoe the ground well between the drills of potatoes, swedes, mangolds, &c., not only to kill the weeds, but to have a loose pulverised soil, which will facilitate the absorption of aqueous vapour from the atmosphere, which is always more plentiful in hot weather than in cold. Maize may still be sown either for a crop or green food. Continue to plough foul or new lands for a clean fallow. The cleaning of land by fallow of such weeds as sorrel and couch must be done here by a clean summer fallow: little can be done during the winter to effect this object, as vegetation continues active all the winter, except it be to grow rotting crops of oats, turnips, &c. On this subject Sir Humphrey Davy says, "Fallowing affords no new source of riches to the soil, it merely tends to produce an accumulation of decomposing matter, which, in the common course of crops, would be employed as it is formed, and it is scarcely possible to imagine a single instance of a cultivated soil which can be supposed to remain fallow for a year with advantage to the farmer. The only case where this practice is beneficial seems to be in the destruction of weeds, and for cleaning foul soils." Liebig tells us that "fallow time is that period of culture, during which land is exposed to a progressive disintegration by means of the influence of the atmosphere, for the purpose of rendering a certain quantity of alkalies capable of being appropriated by plants." Cart scoria or any other material required for draining, fencing, &c. All heavy carting should be done during fine weather, we having no frosts to harden the land in the winter time.

DECEMBER.

[Summer begins.] Prepare stack bottoms and thatch for the hay, all this should be done before the hay harvest commences, as all hands are then busy. Attend to the destruction of all weeds, as they will now be running to seed, and on no account allow any of them to perfect

FARM MANAGEMENT, BY JOSEPH MAY.

seed. The plume thistle, which is now so frequently to be seen in the vicinity of Auckland, and to prevent the spreading of which a law has been passed, is a biennial, and somewhat difficult to kill the first year of its existence, for when cut below the surface, the root throws up several cabbage-like plants; but the second year if allowed to head up, and then cut off with a hook, or scythe if plentiful, it will easily be killed; but care should be taken not to allow the seed flowers to expand, for if cut after these make their appearance, there will be sufficient sap in the stems to perfect seed. Hay-making will become general about the latter end of this month. The value of hay depends on many circumstances, such as the kind of herbage, the age of the grass, the management in making, and the state of the weather at the time. Hay made from young grasses is more nutritious than that made from those approaching to maturity. The proper time to cut for hay is when the plants are in flower, so as to obtain bulk, and digestible nutritious matter. Hay-making in England is attended with much labour, the constant spreading, turning, and cocking, for several days, makes it a tedious affair. In New Zealand, in ordinary seasons, hay is made with much less labour. The weather being generally dry at this season, the cut grass is soon withered, and the swathes fit to turn the day after mowing, and turned into wind-rows before night. The second day it should be cocked, to keep its colour and prevent it from being bleached; and if not prepared to stack it, it should be made into larger cocks about the fourth day. Oaten hay makes excellent food for stock if properly made, it should be cut as soon as the milk is formed in the grain, if not before; if left until the grain is nearly perfect, the coarse parts of the straw will contain a great proportion of indigestible woody fibre, and be refused by horses; it requires less making than grass and clover hay, and is less liable to be injured by wet weather. New beginners should make some oaten hay as soon as possible; this might be done by sowing oats with the grass and clover seed, even on the surface in bush land among the stumps, but if chipped in with the hoe all the better; of course among the stumps the crop will require to be hand reaped, but

it will repay for the trouble if the owner has a cow or two, or working cattle. Hay stacks should be soon thatched, bad management is frequently seen here by leaving stacks for weeks uncovered, and in consequence tons of hay are spoiled.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, FRUIT AND FLOWER GARDEN

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, FRUIT AND FLOWER GARDEN,

ARRANGED FOR THE

SEASONS AND CLIMATE OF NEW ZEALAND,

BY H. J. HAWKINS.

Situation of a Garden. – A gentle inclination towards the north, with a point to the east, should be preferred to one verging towards the south or west, as an exposure to the morning and mid-day sun, though the slope be moderate, is very favourable to the production of early vegetables and fruit. A moderate elevation should be preferred to the summit of a hill, or the bottom of a valley. The form of the garden is of little consequence, but where practicable, and appearance is taken into consideration, an oblong, running north and south in length, is perhaps the best.

Soil. – A moderately adhesive loam, resting upon a dry subsoil, is the best for all gardening purposes; but the thin yellow clays of the Province, if well worked and manured, will produce most kinds of vegetables and fruits in perfection, provided a dry situation be selected, or drained if too moist. Stiff clays should be avoided, if possible.

Trenching. – To grow tap-rooted vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips, &c., to perfection, the soil should be trenched to the depth of eighteen inches; but such a depth of soil will in no way benefit fruit trees, as their roots should not be allowed to penetrate deeper than twelve inches.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

Draining. – When the garden is small, and surrounded by a ditch, drainage may perhaps be dispensed with; but when of any extent, and the subsoil of a compact, retentive nature, it is absolutely necessary. "The principal advantages of drainage are, the deepening of the staple soil and rendering it more friable, so that a superfluity of water which would cause the formation of those chemical compounds that are found in stagnant water, is prevented. The greater depth of mould, and more perfect culture, render the soil more absorbant of moisture in dry periods of weather. As crops can be sown sooner on drained lands, they also ripen earlier and produce more abundantly. In short, while drained land obtains a greater capacity for moisture and manure, it imparts to plants greater capabilities for economically working up the materials which they find both in the soil and atmosphere, seeing they are maintained in the most healthy condition of growth."

Manures. – As no kind of soil, however good it may be, can continue to yield annual crops of vegetables and fruit, unless means are adopted to keep up its fertility, it is the duty of every person who possesses a garden, to store up everything that is likely to contribute to this end. A corner of every garden should be appropriated to the reception of all kinds of vegetable refuse, and a large tub or barrel should be placed near it, into which all slops of the house, soap-suds, &c., should be thrown. It would be an improvement if the tub was let into the ground, and covered with a lid. This corner may be hid from view by planting a row of laurustinus, or some other flowering shrub near it. A few observations on the different manures, and their application to various crops, may not be out of place here. Soap-suds are very valuable as a manure, so also is water used for personal ablution, and other domestic purposes. As liquid manure is immediate in its effects, it should never be used in too powerful a state, but should be well diluted with water: three gallons of water to one of pure urine will be sufficiently strong for most kinds of vegetables and flowers. Liquid manure may be applied to growing crops of cabbage, cauliflower, celery, rhubarb, asparagus, onions, &c., with great advantage, but should not be applied to

carrots and parsnips. It may also be beneficially applied to fruit trees, when labouring under a heavy crop of fruit, and also to strawberries, when in flower or the fruit swelling, but should be discontinued when the fruit begins to ripen. Most kinds of flowers are benefitted by its use, particularly balsams, crysanthemums, &c. Liquid-manure should be applied to growing crops only. It should never be used when the soil is dry and arid, but in gloomy and showery weather, as it then sinks in with far greater expedition to the extreme points of the fibrous roots, or in other words, the mouths of the plants.

Compost-heap. – This may be formed in various ways, but the following is perhaps the most simple. Make a layer of earth about four inches deep, four feet wide, and eight feet long. On this throw all kinds of vegetable refuse, dung, night – soil, wood – ashes, etc., till it reaches about eight inches in thickness; then place on another layer of earth, and then another of dung, etc., and so on until it reaches about three feet high. The top layer should be of soil. During its formation, and particularly in dry weather, soap-suds, and other slops of the house should be thrown on it to keep it moist. The heap should be frequently turned, and well mixed together, and after each turning should be covered with a coating of earth, which will imbibe all the valuable gases as they escape from the heat. This will prove a valuable manure for all kinds of crops, and will greatly improve the texture of the soil. If the heap is to be applied to heavy soils, light should be used in its formation, but if the soil is of a light open character, clay will be found the most beneficial.

Guano. – This is the most powerful of all manures, and on that account requires greater caution in its use. It may be used in its powdery state, or mixed with water, as a liquid manure. It may be beneficially applied to nearly every kind of vegetables and flowers, cabbages and cauliflowers, turnips and lettuce, cucumbers and melons, balsams, camellias, and chrysanthemums. The Editor of the Botanic Garden says, "when applied to strawberries once a week in a liquid state (four ounces to a gallon), guano made them very vigorous and productive;

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

but sprinkled upon some seedlings of the same fruit, it killed them. Two ounces per yard (five cwt. per acre) were sprinkled over onions, and they doubled the untreated in size." Mr. Rendle and other persons record, as the result of dearly-purchased experience, that where guano has failed to be beneficial, or has been injurious, it has been applied in quantities too powerful for the plants to bear. In the liquid state, half an ounce per gallon, and given to growing plants once a week, it never fails to be productive of vigour. Three cwt to the acre, or about two pounds and a half to every thirty square yards, is quite sufficient for any garden produce when applied in its powdery state; and, when diluted in water, should never be stronger than one ounce to each gallon – rather less than more. The liquid manure should be applied to healthy plants only, and during their season of growth. In making guano-water, it should be allowed to stand twenty-four hours, and frequently stirred. Guano, if not used immediately after being purchased, should be kept as much as possible from the influence of the atmosphere to prevent the escape of the ammonia.

Bone dust. – This is also a valuable manure, and one that can be applied to all crops without any injurious effects. It is either sprinkled over the soil and dug in, or, when used with potatoes, buried in the trench with the seed. "Bone manure," says the Editor of the Cottage Gardener, "whether merely ground bones, or those dissolved in sulphuric acid, is not only beneficial to cabbages and turnips, but to all garden crops and flowers. We have noticed very great benefit ourselves from applying it to peas, beans, asparagus, and strawberries." Sir Joseph Paxton and other writers consider it a valuable manure for grape vines. When strewed broadcast about six ounces to every square yard is considered an average dressing for poor soils. It may be said, of the two last-named manures, that guano is immediate in its effects, but not lasting; bone dust slow, but more enduring. Guano is more beneficially applied to heavy soils; bone dust to light. The effect of guano is more perceptible in winter and spring crops; while the properties of bone dust adapt it more for summer use. Guano, to be successfully applied to plants, requires

some degree of skill; but bone dust may be used to all kinds of crops by the most inexperienced.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Vegetables. – The principle should never be lost sight of in all branches of horticulture and floriculture that a good kind of anything under culture is as easily grown as an indifferent one, besides being more profitable and pleasant.

Cabbage. – The climate of this Colony is so favourable to the growth of the cabbage tribe that seeds may be sown, and plants put out, in ordinary seasons throughout the year: indeed less skill is required here to grow the various kinds of vegetables than in colder latitudes. A stiff loam, either naturally rich or made so by culture, is the best soil adapted to the growth of cabbage. Sow the seeds rather thickly, as it is better to thin out an abundance of plants than to lose the greater part of a thin crop by insects. As the roots of very young plants are not strong enough to bear removal, the best time for transplanting seedlings is when they have made from four to six proper leaves, the roots will be enabled to perform their proper functions. Plant in rows, from one foot to two feet and a half asunder, each way, according to the size of the cabbage, – the smaller kinds, such as early york, sugar loaf, &c., being planted the closest. Should the weather be dry at the time of planting, dip the roots of the plants into a puddle made of rotten cow-dung and water, which will greatly facilitate their striking. When the plants begin to close, give frequent applications of liquid manure, and let the earth between the rows have frequent stirrings.

Cauliflowers. – This very delicious vegetable is to be grown with as little difficulty as a cabbage. Sow seed in Feburary, to be planted out in March or April. The plants should be placed two feet apart each way The soil must be very rich, and the situation warm, and no plant is more benefitted by a weekly application of strong liquid manure, if applied as soon as the head begins to

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

form. Another sowing should be made in May or June, to be planted out in August or September. If the plants are picked out when large enough to admit of being handled, it will add greatly to their future strength.

Brocoli. – All sorts of brocoli require a good, light, rich, loamy soil, and an open, warm situation. A sowing should be made in August or September of the purple cape or early white, and another in November; the first sowing to be transplanted about the beginning of November, and the plants of the second sowing about a month later will give a successive produce from February to May. For a successional supply of the walcheren, the best of brocoli, it is necessary to make sowings in September, November, and December, which will give a regular supply to the end of June. The plants are fit for pricking out when having five or six leaves rather more than an inch in breadth; set them four or five inches apart each way, and water every night until they have taken root, they should not again be moved until they have leaves nearly three inches in breadth. They require the same after-culture as cabbage.

Borecole or Kale. – The varieties of this cabbage-wort yield the most unfailing supply of sprouts for table from May to January. The first crop should be sown in August, which will be fit for pricking out in September, and for final planting in November, for production in May or June. Sow again in November, for final planting early in February, for use during July and August. With the exception of the Brussels sprouts, all the varieties must have their centre shoot, or heart, cut first, as this causes them to produce side-shoots, or sprouts; but of Brussels sprouts the side-shoots must be cut first, whilst firm, and about the size of a walnut. Cut the largest first, and the smaller will continue to increase, and must be cut as fast as they attain the above-named size.

Turnip. – A small sowing may be made in August, in a light rich loam, and another in September, and again in October. In February and March other sowings may be made, for winter use. Sow in drills nine inches apart, and when the plants have four or five leaves, thin them to at least nine inches from each other. Swede turnips

may be sown in September and October, and again in February. These will thrive in a stiffer soil than the garden turnip, and should be allowed more room.

Carrot. – The soil should be warm, light, and rich, and dug full two spades deep. With the bottom spit turn in a little well-decayed manure, but no application of it to the surface should be allowed. Sow seeds in July for the production of plants to draw whilst young. At the close of August or beginning of September, the main crop should be sown. In February or March sow for autumn use. A calm day should be selected for sowing, and the seeds should be separated by rubbing them between the hands with the admixture of a little sand, otherwise they cannot be sown regularly. Sow thinly in drills eight inches apart for the smaller kinds, and twelve inches for the large in beds not more than four feet wide. The surface soil should not be pulverised too freely, or the first shower will dissolve it to mud, and the next sunshiny day bake it into an impervious cake. When the plants have four leaves two or three inches long, they should be thinned – those intended for drawing young, to four or five inches apart, and those to attain their full growth, to ten. The ground should be hoed at the time of thinning.

Parsnip. – This wholesome root will thrive in a stiffer soil than the carrot, but will answer well in one of a similar quality. Sow from the beginning of August to the middle of September. The parsnip requires the same culture as the carrot.

Pea. – Sow early varieties in June, and continue to sow every three weeks for succession throughout the next three months. Sow in drills, bishop's long pod and other dwarf varieties at two feet; the champion of England and marrowfats at three or four feet; and the gigantic varieties at six feet apart. Small seeds should be sown one inch deep, the large varieties at two. When the plants are two or three inches high, the rows should be hoed between, and earth drawn up to each side of them. Sticking is not required until the plants show their tendrils. Peas thrive best in a moderately rich soil. Fresh or stimulating manure should be avoided, as it causes them to grow too high. The following will be

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

found to succeed on most soils: – Sangster No. 1 for early, followed by bishop's long pod and the champion of England, which are two of the finest peas grown. The next is dwarf. Green marrow very late.

Kidney Bean. – The ground intended for beans should never be manured at the time of sowing, unless the soil is very poor, and then well-rotted manure should be used in preference to fresh. An early crop may be sown late in September; for a succession sow according to the demand, once a month. The rows for runners should be three feet apart, and the drills two inches deep. In dry weather, water the drills before sowing the seeds, which should be dropped in two inches apart.

Scarlet-runner Bean. – This prolific and important crop should be sown the first or second week in October. Scarlet-runners will thrive in nearly any soil. To ensure good crops, detached or single rows are preferable to sowing them in a plot, even if a good width be left between, which should never be less than three feet. If the roots are not disturbed during winter they will again shoot forth and produce abundant crops.

Broad Bean. – Early sown beans require a light, rich, dry soil; but for the main crop a cool – bottomed more tenacious soil is preferred. A sowing for first crop should be made at the end of May or beginning of June; and, where required, plantations may be made from the beginning of July to the end of August, once every three weeks. Sow in drills, four inches apart in the drill, and two inches deep, the drills three feet from each other. When the blossoms are fully expanded at the bottom, nip off the extreme tops; this prevents their running away in a long useless stalk, makes them more fruitful, and brings the bottom pods sooner into use.

Onion. – Sow for main crop during August and beginning of September, in drills from nine to twelve inches apart, in beds about four feet wide. The soil must be rich and the situation entirely free from trees. About six weeks after sowing give the first thinning and hoeing, leaving the seedlings about three inches apart. In about a month give another thinning, leaving the plants about six inches apart. Stir the soil between the rows at each thinning. The plants taken out may be replanted in

rows nine inches apart, and six inches from each other. In planting care must be taken not to bury the bulb of the onion, inserting the roots only in the soil. It is a good practice before the tops change to a yellow hue to bend the stem down flat upon the bed, which not only prevents its running to seed, but increases the size of the bulb; the bend should be made about two inches up the neck.

Celery. – To obtain fine heads of celery the trenches should be well prepared, and the plants should not be checked in their growth by injuring their roots in removing them, or by neglecting to water them, or by a deficiency in the supply of manure. Sow seed from the middle of August to the middle of September. A seed will not vegetate unless within the influence of moisture, air, and heat; be careful not to sow your seed too deep or they may never come up. The trench should be dug eighteen inches deep, and thirty inches wide. Manure with pig or horse dung, and bone dust, well mixed together. Plant out in October and November, putting the plants twelve inches from each other. The trenches should be in an open situation, as the plants never attain a large and vigorous growth, if shaded by beans, peas, or trees. Should the weather be very dry and hot, the plants ought to be protected in the day from the scorching sun, and water should be given freely after sunset. When the plants have attained the height of twelve inches, they should be tied round with something of a softish texture, and all lateral shoots should be taken off. As the plants grow, they should be earthed up a little at a time, taking care not to earth them over the centre of the heart, which causes them to rot; the soil used for earthing them up cannot be too light or sandy. Liquid manure may be applied once a week. Another sowing may be made in February or March for spring use.

Asparagus. – Plant in August, or early in September, in deep, light loam, abundantly supplied with rich, thoroughly decayed dung. It is scarcely possible to overmanure asparagus. Set the rows two feet apart, and ten inches from plant to plant. When started into growth, apply slight dredgings of salt and a little guano in rainy weather. If the manures are sprinkled on the surface of

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

the soil when dry, this should at once be well scarified, and then well soaked with water. No heads should be cut the first year after planting, and very few the second, and at no time should they be cut after the beginning of December. Observe a due moderation in taking the crop, as the shoots when much cut become every year smaller and less valuable. In the autumn, when the stalks are yellow, cut them down about an inch above the soil. Fork the beds over, and remove about an inch of the surface soil; then apply a good coat of very rotten manure regularly over the bed, sprinkle some common salt, about three ounces to every square yard, cover the whole with the earth previously removed, and then leave undisturbed until August, when the beds should be again carefully forked over, and the manure and soil well broken up and incorporated together. Give a good dose of liquid manure, either natural or artificial – the slops of the house, which always contain a large, quantity of salt, will prove very exhilarating to the plants, if sufficiently diluted with water. From two to three inches of soil above the crowns of the plants are sufficient. The shoots should never be cut until they are six inches above ground, and cut them only half an inch below the surface; and the flavour will be very superior to that which has scarcely seen daylight. By this cutting, the rising shoots are not likely to be injured. The seed of the asparagus may be sown in August or September.

Cucumber. – When grown without the aid of glass – Seeds may be sown in October and November, in rich light loam; but avoid using fresh or stimulating manure. They should be lightly shaded from the meridian sun, as too great a heat is likely to affect the growth of the young fruit. The ground being regularly dug over, saucer-like hollows should be made about fifteen inches in diameter, and one or two deep, and formed five feet apart, in each of which six or seven seeds may be sown. If the weather be dry, it is requisite to water the patches moderately two or three days after sowing; and when in growth should be watered every two or three days, in proportion to the dryness of the season. The future management depends entirely on what is wanted. If a great number of small fruit be the object, all that set

may be allowed to grow, or at least very moderately thinned. If fine cucumbers are required, three are enough to be swelling on one vine at the same time, and the terminal points of each vine should be pinched off. The seed of cucumbers, melons, and other plants of the gourd tribe should not be sown until they are several years old as they will then produce plants with a scanty foliage but abundant fruit. The telegraph and prince of wales are excellent cucumbers; the former very quick in its growth, but the latter is larger and more prolific.

Rhubarb. – Sow seeds in August or September, in drills three feet apart, and about half-an-inch deep, the plants to remain where raised. When they make their appearance, thin to six or eight inches asunder, and loosen the surface of the ground about them with the hoe. At the close of the summer finally thin them to three feet, allowing the strongest to remain. The soil should be light, deep, and moderately moist, and should be made rich by an abundant supply of manure. Where plants are used, trenches should be prepared, two feet deep and the same in width, early in the autumn, so that the plants may be inserted as soon as procured. Place the plants down the centre of the beds prepared for them, three feet apart. Make the hole deep enough to bury the collar of the root three inches, and close the earth about them, A few of the first developed leaves may be taken the first year, but moderation is recommended, as the more they are cut, the less productive they will be next season. Rhubarb should always be planted in a shaded situation as their stems will be finer and better when not too much exposed to the sun. Rhubarb is no chance crop; it never fails; it depends not upon seasons; is not affected by blight; and is, without exception, the most useful and wholesome of the substitutes for green fruit. No garden should be without it.

Vegetable Marrow and Pumpkin. – These require similar culture to the cucumber, but are more hardy. Not more than three seeds should be placed in each hollow, and the hollows should be eight or nine feet apart.

Artichokes. – Plant in August or September, in any soil, but a free light loam should be preferred. When

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

the suckers are eight or ten inches high, in open weather select such as have much of their fibrous roots, and are sound, and not woody. The brown, hard part by which they are attached to the parent stem must be removed, and if that cuts crisp and tender, the suckers are good, but if tough and stringy, they are useless. Set in rows, the suckers three feet apart, and about half their length beneath the surface. Water them abundantly every evening until established. Place some mulch, that is, littery dung, about their roots when planted, to remain during the whole summer. Remove all small weak suckers about the end of October. If well manured, the plants will produce heads the first year, and by annual mulching, and frequent applications of liquid-manure, will continue to do for several years. Artichokes can be raised from seeds; but suckers should be preferred.

Jerusalem Artichokes should be planted about the same time and in the same manner as potatoes, and require similar after culture. Select a spot apart from the vegetable garden, otherwise this plant may spread and become a complete nuisance.

Potato. – This valuable root requires a moderately light and rich soil, and an open situation. For early crops plant in the beginning of July, and continue during the remainder of the month and the beginning of August. September is probably the best month for planting the main crop, but heavy crops have been taken from sets planted in October, and even as late as November, when the season has been moist, or the soil of a naturally damp nature. Pieces should never be used as sets for early crops; and even for later planting the preference should be given to whole sets of a moderate size. Sets should be planted not less than eight inches deep, as experience has taught us that deep planted potatoes are less liable to be attacked by the worm than those planted shallow, and taking up the crop as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow will generally prevent its attack. Potatoes should be dug up dry, and not stored until perfectly so.

MONTHLY KITCHEN GARDEN CALENDAR.

JANUARY.

Potato-onions may be taken up as soon as the stems are withered. Collect the seeds of vegetables as they ripen. Keep the earth stirred between growing crops.

FEBRUARY.

If the weather is favourable, the seeds of most kinds of vegetables may be sown. Bend down the necks of onions; the bend should be about two inches above the bulb.

MARCH.

Earth up celery, adding but little soil at a time, and apply liquid manure once a week. Sow winter spinach on a rich light soil, in a dry situation, as well as cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, carrot, &c.

APRIL.

Commence planting potato-onions in a rich, light soil. The soil cannot be too dry at the time of planting. Earth up growing crops.

MAY.

Continue to plant potato-onions. Sow seeds of the various vegetables to stand the winter.

JUNE.

Take advantage of every opportunity for digging and manuring the land for spring crops. Mulch the crowns of rhubarb – this will greatly forward their growth. Early varieties of peas, beans, and cabbage may now be sown. Plant early potatoes in a light, warm, and dry soil. Rake up dead leaves, and store them for manure, for if left upon the ground among the crops, they afford shelter for slugs and other vermin.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

JULY.

Onions may now be planted for seed, about three inches deep and one foot apart. Sow radish, lettuce, &c. Continue to plant early potatoes. Plant out cabbage, lettuce, &c., as they are ready. Sow the larger sort of peas, and earth up and stake those that require it – as the celery advances a little earth may be filled into the trenches. Fork and dress asparagus beds.

AUGUST.

Sow spinach in well pulverised rich soil, in drills from one foot to eighteen inches apart. If the surface of the ground is sufficiently dry, sow main crop of onions and other seeds. Sow parsley seed. Sow tomatoes, capsicums, chillies, sweet marjoram, &c. Earth up peas and beans that are well above ground, and make further sowings. Sow rhubarb seeds in drills about three feet apart, and half an inch deep. Plant asparagus roots in deep light soil with rich decayed manure.

SEPTEMBER.

Get in all the ordinary spring crops. If the main crop of onions was not got in last month, it should not be delayed after the beginning of this. The main crop of potatoes should be in by the end of this month. Plant jerusalem artichokes. Earth up growing crops.

OCTOBER.

Now that the principal spring and summer crops are sown and making some progress, strict attention must be paid to cleanliness, by keeping them free both from weeds and vermin. The crops must be thinned in good time, and the hoe well and frequently used, to keep the soil in an open porous condition, so that the air may be freely admitted. Sow, cucumbers, pumpkins, and vegetable marrows.

NOVEMBER.

See last month. Continue to sow cucumbers, pumpkins, vegetable marrow, kidney beans, and scarlet runners. Potatoes may still be planted in moist situations. Plant out brocoli for autumn use, and make further sowings

of the walcheren for winter. Earth up celery. Gather herbs for drying just before they are in full flower.

DECEMBER.

Attend to growing crops, and destroy all weeds and vermin. Water if necessary all crops lately planted

FRUIT GARDEN.

Selecting Fruit Trees. – The object of the cultivator should be, to procure trees that will afford a continuous supply of fruit, instead of merely obtaining a number of large trees, as is too often the case. As one kind of fruit tree naturally grows more robust than another, every purchaser should endeavour to ascertain the size to which the different kinds usually grow, and then select the most healthy and best shaped of the kind. The slow growing varieties frequently produce the choicest kinds of fruit, and are generally very prolific.

Arrangement of Fruit Trees. – Little, if any, attention is paid to this part of fruit growing, the trees being generally planted promiscuously. It is useless selecting trees for the purpose of giving a succession fruit, unless some care is bestowed on the arrangement. When the garden is level, and the temperature the same throughout, it is of little consequence how they are arranged; but there are few gardens in this province that do not possess a snug warm quarter, and in such quarter the early and tender varieties of fruit trees should be placed. To explain more fully, – if three varieties of plums, the morocco, orlean, and golden drop, are planted in the same situation, and receive the same culture, they will ripen their fruit in the following order – morocco, middle of January; orlean, early in February; and golden drop in March; thus giving a succession of fruit for seven or eight weeks. But if the golden drop is planted in a warm sheltered spot, the morocco in a cold and exposed situation, and the orlean in one of a medium temperature, the fruit of the three kinds would probably ripen at the same time; and instead of giving a succession

THE FRUIT GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

of fruit, would only yield a glut of about three weeks' duration. Reverse the position of the morocco and golden drop, and the former will ripen much earlier, and the latter much later. The above observations will apply to the pear, and other fruits. Some trees, like the glout morceau pear, require a large amount of heat to mature their fruit, while the crassanne pear is benefited by being planted in a cool situation. When making a selection, request the nurseryman, not only to lable each tree with its proper name, but also with its respective merits, and arrange them accordingly.

Planting. – May is the best month for planting all kinds of deciduous trees. The soil should be previously prepared, so that the trees may be planted as soon as obtained. In scoria and other light soils, a few inches of clay should be placed at the bottom of the holes, in which are to be planted the roots spread on its surface, and then covered with the ordinary soil. Fruit trees should never be planted deeper in the soil than six or eight inches, when placed in the soil the roots should be spread out horizontally like the toes of a fowl when it treads on the ground, and covered lightly with a fine rich earth. The soil should then be gently pressed with the foot, but not violently, as is often done. A better plan is to wash the soil about the roots with a plentiful supply of water, particularly if the soil is wet at the time of planting. The remainder of the earth should then be added, and if the soil is of a light open nature, a mulching of littery manure should be given. The roots should be examined before planted, and all coarse, and especially tap-roots, trimmed, but all fibrous roots preserved from injury. Place the manure above the roots, and prevent as much as possible their entering the subsoil. If the tree is young, it should be cut down to about eight inches; and if a few years old, and furnished with a head, should be supported with a stake firmly driven into the ground, to which it should be bound with some soft material. In wet situations, or retentive clays, the trees should be planted on the surface of the ground, and the roots covered with about four inches of soil.

Pruning and Training. – Under this head little advice can be offered, as no one system of pruning or training

can be beneficially adapted to all kinds of trees. A modern writer on the subject says "those who are strangers to the cultivation of fruit trees, and, as such, undertake the management of an orchard, will be surprised and perplexed at the anomalies which continually present themselves. It will then be evident that gardening cannot, in its routine, be learned from books; that one tree assumes a certain mode of growth; another developes in an order which has not been foreseen or contemplated; one forms its fruitful spurs spontaneously without solicitation or the adoption of means; while another, in spite of the most rigid foreshortening, continues for years to yield nothing but leafy shoots." Such being the case, we can merely advise that, previous to pruning, it would be well to acquire some practical information, and then, by studying the peculiarities of each tree individually, the young pruner would soon discover what treatment it required. In pruning, always cut towards you, beginning at the back of a bud and ending just above it.

Root-pruning. – The object of the cultivator should be to procure fruit as early as possible, without injuring the constitution of the tree; and if the directions given respecting planting be carefully carried out, most kinds of trees will become fruitful in three or four years. But if the roots are allowed to penetrate deeply into the soil, or the soil in which they are planted is very rich, the trees will become very vigorous, and consequently barren, or nearly so. To attempt to produce fruitfulness by pruning the branches, only adds to the luxuriance of the tree; but if the tree is deprived of a portion of its roots, its luxuriance receives a check, and fruitfulness follows. Mr. Errington, writing on the subject, says, "When over-luxuriance is the cause of unfruitfulness, a system of root-pruning must be practised." Sir Joseph Paxton says, "The things on which fruitfulness most depends, are their first planting, and after root-pruning, when necessary." Mr. Glenny, writing on the same subject, says: "Root-pruning is unquestionably the safest and best method of checking the exuberance of a growing tree, and causing it to bear. If a tree is growing moderately, and producing fair average crops of fruit, it requires no

THE FRUIT GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

interference with its roots, but if, on the other hand, a tree is growing very vigorously, to the manifest injury of its fruitfulness, then, to have it taken up and replanted, shortening back some of the strongest of the roots, or to dig down and shorten the roots without lifting the tree, is the most likely means that can be adopted to bring it to a state of fruitfulness." The roots should be pruned as early in May as possible. Mr. Baily, gardener to the Archbishop of York: says, "I have paid much attention to the management of fruit trees, and feel convinced that the great object we should have in view is to secure a shallow stratum of sound, pure loam on a dry and impervious bottom; to avoid mutilating the surface roots by cropping the borders with vegetables; not to apply rank and stimulating manures; and to keep the mass of soil always open, healthy, and permeable to the sun, air, and rain, using especial precaution that excess of the latter is not permitted to saturate the soil. Nothing, in my opinion, is more injurious to fruit trees than cropping of the soil in which they are planted." The injury here named is the destruction of the fibrous roots near the surface of the soil which always takes place when the ground beneath the trees is dug. These roots impart a higher flavour to the fruit than those that are deep in the soil: hence one advantage of shallow planting.

Grafting and Budding. – Grafting and budding consists in uniting with the stock, which is a tree perfectly useless, a branch or a bud of another tree, that is of a fine sort, and by that means changing the very nature of the subject; because the branch or bud once united, becomes a part of the tree, and all the rest of the stock being prevented from growing, the graft or the bud alone becomes the head of the tree, and the fruit is what was required by the change. The art of grafting is to join the wood of the tree to be grafted on so neatly to the piece to be grafted, as that the two barks shall meet close. This is done by various means: simplicity, however, in all such operations, is very desirable. The conditions are few and simple. Choose a proper stock and graft – let the bark of the graft and the stock touch each other on one side at least, tie firmly, cover the wound from the air, and operate at a right season,

These conditions ensure the union of the graft and stock. If the stock be larger than the graft, the graft must be made to fit somewhere, in one of the following ways: – 1. Cut a flat side to the stock, and a flat side to the graft, and fasten the two flat sides together, so that the bark of the stock shall join the bark of the graft on one side. 2. Cut an angular gutter down one side of the stock, and cut the graft to an angle to fit it, with its bark outside joining the bark of the stock, and if it is a fit, nothing can prevent their uniting. The operation is performed early in September. With regard to the budding, a single leaf of a good fruit tree, with its bud at the base, has to be detached from the branch by shaving off a bit of the bark, with the leaf attached. This is done in January or thereabouts. The bark of the stock is slit down an inch, and a cut made across, so that the bark can be raised from its wood, and the leaf with its bit of bark, and the bud at its base, is tucked under the bark of the stock, which is made fast on it with a piece of tape, and the bud soon unites and becomes a part of the tree. All the other parts being taken away, the bud grows and forms a head.

Apple. – The apple will thrive in almost any kind of soil, provided it is not too wet or too light; but a good strong loam suits it best. This climate is somewhat too warm for most of the old kinds, causing the fruit to grow to a large size at the expense of flavour: but some few are improved by it, the royal russet being one. Apples should have the coolest part of the garden allotted them.

Pear. – This fruit is more adapted to the climate of Auckland than the apple, and ought to be extensively cultivated. When grafted on a free stock, that is, a pear stock, it will thrive on a poorer soil than the apple, and will last much longer; but when grafted on a quince stock, they require a soil more rich, and moderately moist.

Plum. – The soil in which plums are planted should be moderately rich, but neither too light or dry, nor stiff and retentive of moisture. Damp soils are very injurious to all kinds of fruit trees. The plum is very hardy, and easily managed; and if properly planted will soon become prolific, though some kinds are more free in their bearing than others. The morocco, orlean, greengage,

THE FRUIT GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

golden drop, and ickworth imperatrice are all good plums, and would give a succession of fruit from the middle of January to the end of April.

Cherry. – A good, light, friable, loamy soil is the best for the cherry, neither too rich nor too poor. The roots of the cherry are very rambling in their habits, and very prolific of suckers – the latter should be removed as they appear, and the roots occasionally shortened. The cherry is one of the earliest fruits, and the earlier they ripen the more valuable they are; therefore the trees should be grown as open as possible, to admit the light and air, which not only promotes their health and vigour, but imparts to the fruit an agreeable flavour. The early may duke is one of the best cherries, and should be in every garden.

Peach. – The peach tree may be seen growing in all soils and situations, bearing heavy crops of fruit, but generally of a very indifferent quality. No fruit is more injured by a damp subsoil than the peach, and no other kind of stone fruit so readily strikes its roots downwards, particularly if the subsoil is of a rich nature. The soil, therefore, in which the peach should be planted, should be rich on the surface, and poor and dry below, as the richness of the surface – soil would prove attractive to the roots, and would partly prevent their striking downwards. The peach should not be allowed to bear too heavy a crop, but should have the fruit thinned when about the size of walnuts. The above remarks apply also to the nectarine.

Grape-Vine. – Ripening the wood thoroughly is undoubtedly the basis on which to ground all the operations necessary for successful vine-culture; and whatever plan will tend to make the vine short-jointed, and to ripen the wood, will be found to hasten the ripening of the fruit. Any light, sandy, and porous soils are by far better adapted for the vine than those of a tenacious or clayey character; for the latter, by maintaining a permanent moisture in hot weather, are sure to produce long-jointed shoots. Without securing a dry bottom, it is impossible to maintain success in vine culture. If the soil is of a tenacious character, coarse sand, burnt clay, charred rubbish, and oyster shells, should be incorporated with it

and a little decomposed manure may be added to the mass. If the soil is light and porous, a little bone dust, whole bones, woollen rags, and old leather, will prove beneficial. The vine bears on shoots of the present season, out of wood of the last season; care should therefore be taken to preserve a sufficient quantity of last season's growth. It is said that the grape-vine may be protected from the oidium by placing a pound of sea salt in a hole near the foot of each vine.

Disbudding signifies the removal of every opening bud, at the period of leafing, which is not needed for the present year's crop, or for filling up some space which would otherwise remain bare. Thinning-out consists in going over the vines again about the time they commence blossoming, and then making a final selection of the shoots to be allowed to remain. Stopping is pinching off the ends of those shoots which are to remain, and is generally performed at one joint beyond the one bearing the bunch; that is to say, one joint and one leaf only beyond the bunch.

Strawberry. – It is generally recommended to plant the strawberry in a naturally rich soil, or one made so by an abundant supply of manure, – and doubtless the largest fruit is obtained by this means; but heavy crops of high-flavoured fruit have been grown on soils of medium quality, by the application of liquid manure or guano – water during the season of flowering and swelling of the fruit. Strawberry beds should be formed in February or March, if the soil is in fit condition for planting. Plant in rows two feet apart, and eighteen inches between the plants. As soon as planted give a copious watering, if the weather is dry. Strawberry seeds sown in February will produce bearing plants the following season. Select a light rich soil, sow the seeds on the surface, and cover them very lightly with fine earth. Give a watering if necessary.

Fig. – The fig will thrive in any well-drained soil, but one somewhat adhesive suits it best. The young tree should not be stimulated too much by the application of manure; but old trees, either in a bearing state, or that have become exhausted by over-cropping, will be greatly benefited by the use of liquid-manure or guano-water.

THE FRUIT GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

Quince. – The quince thrives best in a rich strong soil, moderately moist. If properly planted, it requires little after culture – merely thinning the branches when too thick, and the fruit when too heavily laden.

Gooseberry. – The gooseberry should be planted in a rather adhesive soil, moderately moist and rich. It should not be pruned so open here as in colder climates, as the sun's rays cause the young fruit to prematurely ripen when about the size of large peas. The finest fruit will invariably be found on the shady part of the bush.

MONTHLY FRUIT GARDEN CALENDAR.

JANUARY.

Vines and fruit trees should be regularly looked over, and all weak and superfluous shoots removed. Bud fruit trees.

FEBRUARY.

Form strawberry beds if the soil is in fit condition for planting. Sow strawberry seeds – give a watering, if necessary. Continue to bud fruit trees.

MARCH.

Strawberry runners may yet be planted – the earlier done, the better they will bear next season. Most kinds of apples and pears should be gathered during dry weather. To ascertain whether they are ready for gathering, raise them gently, and if they part readily from the tree, or if, on cutting one through the middle, the seeds are becoming brown, they may be taken. Early kinds should be gathered before they are quite ripe.

APRIL.

If new plantations of strawberries were not made in February or March, make them now. Prepare the ground for the reception of fruit trees next month.

MAY.

Plant fruit trees. Clean strawberry beds, and give a

top dressing of fresh soil and dung mixed. If in rows, dig between them, and spread a little of the fresh soil over the plants.

JUNE.

Anything neglected last month should be attended to this. Prune all kinds of fruit trees. Remove all suckers from trees. Strike cuttings of the vine, gooseberry, &c. Wherever fruit is too thick, let it be thinned, for a tree may be easily injured by being allowed to bear too much.

JULY.

Continue to plant out cuttings of the various fruits. Mulch newly-planted trees. Prune the vine, by cutting down shoots that bore last year.

AUGUST.

Sow the stones and pips of the various fruits. Graft trees at the end of the month.

SEPTEMBER.

Graft fruit trees. Disbud the vine. Rock and water melons may be sown in warm and sheltered spots at the end of the month.

OCTOBER.

Disbud vines. Remove all suckers from fruit trees and bushes as they appear, and frequently loosen the soil about them by a slight hoeing. If the runners of strawberries are not wanted for propagation, cut them off as they impoverish the plant. Water them regularly and copiously, if the weather renders it necessary. Sow melons.

NOVEMBER.

Thin out the vine; and continue to sow rock and water melons. Train fruit trees, and remove all superfluous shoots.

DECEMBER.

Stop the vine, and remove all lateral or auxiliary shoots. The general period for stopping is about a week after the young bunch shows what its character will be. Commence budding.

THE FLOWER GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Flowers have in all ages been cultivated by persons of leisure and taste, for the beauty and variety of their forms, colours, and fragrance. While generally healthy and exhilarating, from its being pursued in the open air, flower-culture is justly reckoned a pure and harmless recreation, which, by leading to the tranquil contemplation of natural beauty, and diverting the mind from gross worldly occupations, has a positively moral, and therefore highly beneficial tendency. It often serves to awaken in previously listless minds a spirit of enquiry respecting the great phenomena of nature and the laws of vitality, which so vividly exemplify the wisdom, and power, and goodness of the Creator. It is therefore available as a useful auxiliary of education, as a stepping-stone to science; and as a means of elevating the moral character of a people, and their religious emotions.

No flower garden can be said to be even respectably managed, where the walks are ill-drained, badly defined, neglected, and covered with moss and weeds. If every other part of the garden be kept in perfect order, and yet the walks be even partially neglected, they give an air of desolation to the whole. On the other hand, if the walks are dry, clean, and neat, a stroll in the garden will be endurable, though the grass may be rank, and the weeds rampant in the other parts.

In placing the flower – beds, we should be guided by the manner in which we propose to lay out the garden. If the beds are divided from each other by grass lawn, they should be placed near the principal walk. They should be of lengthy forms, rather narrow, so as each plant can be distinctly seen. These long nrrrow shapes can be more easily managed than broad heavy masses. Weeds can be removed; the beds hoed and raked; the flowers tied up or pegged down, as they require; water can be applied more easily; and the flowers gathered more readily. Also, by having beds of such forms, there is, in performing the necessary operations, less need to set a foot upon them – a pressure always to be avoided.

Another point to be attended to is, to form the beds of different sizes, some of smaller dimensions than others. The lesser beds will then conveniently serve to receive one kind of flowers, such as groups or masses of scarlet geraniums, verbenas, petunias, calceolarias, heliotropes, and other dwarf flowers. These small plots of flowers should be placed in such situations as to be well exposed to view. A very good place for some of them is on the parts of the lawn between the shrubbery and the main walk. They may be chiefly of the two beautiful forms – the oval and the circle; these are more graceful than straight-sided beds, and, on account of their size, are equally as convenient to manage as the larger lengthy forms.

Small gardens are generally laid out with a round or oval bed in the centre; a narrow walk round it; and the rest forms a border, in which, as well as in the centre bed, are grown trees, shrubs, and flowers. This plan is very simple, and if judiciously planted, and neatly kept, is, perhaps, the best way of arranging such small plots. Some such gardens have a square or round grass plot, with a border round it; but grass, in such a situation, is exceedingly troublesome. If it is not frequently rolled and mown, it soon becomes thin of grass, mossy, and out of order, besides taking up the room which might be occupied with flowers.

It is the desire of every one who possesses a garden, to have as much variety of colour and succession of gaiety throughout the season as the situation and means of the possessor can accomplish; yet, in viewing most gardens, even where expense is not an object, borders devoted to the cultivation of particular plants may frequently be observed to be attractive only when such plants are in blossom, and looking bare, if not unsightly, after the bloom is over. Supposing equal skill in the cultivation of plants in general to exist among gardeners, the great superiority in effect of one garden beyond another, consists in the distribution and arrangement of the plants, themselves, so that a succession of blossom, and a due contrast of colour should, where practicable, keep every border furnished even to the end of autumn.

An error not uncommon in deciding what flowers shall

THE FLOWER GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

be planted, is to select numbers merely for their rarity or novelty, without reference to what will be their appearance when in bloom: a plan that generally leads to disappointment. Unless for botanical illustration, make a choice of flowers on two principles – those which will be beautiful when in bloom, although common; and those which will bloom at the particular seasons required, to insure a succession of variegated beauty from spring to autumn.

The design of the flower-gardener is less to produce size and strength in his plants than to cause them effectually to bloom: he wishes a fine corolla. It is proper, then, to mention, that whatever tends to give excessive vigour to the stems will prevent the formation of flower-buds. Thus a too rich and moist soil, or recent manure, is injurious.

No annual flower should be sown, nor any plant permanently placed, without first endeavouring to ascertain the height they grow, the colour of their flowers, and their season of flowering; after which something like arrangement may be attempted as regards the proper position for each in the borders or beds. Of height nothing need be said, except that the dwarfest should be placed nearest the edges, the other rows rising in height and massiveness as they recede; but respecting colour, the simple fact that some colours being placed near each other have a better and more harmonious effect than others, will at once be admitted; and particular attention is directed to this. The principal things to be avoided are – the placing of rose-coloured or red flowers next scarlet or orange; or orange next yellow; blue next violet; or rose next violet: on the contrary, the following colours harmonise – orange with light blue; yellow with violet; dark blue with orange yellow; white with pink or rose; lilac with yellow; white will relieve any colour, but should not be placed next yellow.

In flower-garden scenes it is sometimes desirable, in order to create a variety, to adopt various modes and objects to attain such a varied appearance as will produce effects agreeable to the eye and taste. A cheap way to accomplish this is to place rustic baskets in proper situations, filled with rich light earth, ready to receive suitable

plants. You must not forget the drainage, which is best made of small stones and rough charcoal mixed, and the holes in the bottom of each to allow the superabundant moisture to escape freely. The plants that are proper for vases or baskets are, for one a fuchsia of a drooping habit in the centre, german stocks of various sorts around it, with the canary-coloured nasturtium as a drooper to hang over the edges. For another, a blue sage plant (Salvia patens) in the centre, with clarkia pulchella next to it, edged with dwarf fairy roses, and a mauranclya barclayana for the weeper. A thin coating of living green moss would be ornamental, and would preserve the roots from the too sudden changes of the atmosphere. In dry weather they will require well soaking with water once a week.

There is no kind of shrub, however beautiful, that is used to ornament a garden scene, so well adapted to take various forms as the rose. It can be used as a dwarf tiny plant to fill the smallest bed; as a bush to plant among other shrubs; as one to plant in beds of larger dimensions in groups; as a tall standard to form avenue of roses on each side of a walk; standards can also be planted in groups on a lawn. These also are often planted in the centre of large circular bed, with halfstandards around them and dwarfs in front, thus forming an amphitheatre of roses, which, when in bloom, is one of the finest sights in the floral garden. It can also be used to cover naked banks and dry rocks, and as a climber to ornament the amateur's villa, or the more humble abode of the settler or artisan; also to plant against naked walls or palings, and to form drooping shrubs, when grafted on high standards, to wave gracefully their boughs, laden with fragrance and bloom, in the warm gales of summer and autumn. All these forms are very beautiful, but amidst them all, elegant though they be, there are none that show off the beauty and grandeur of the rose with such effect as training them up pillars or poles. The poles, when single, ought to be pretty stout, and set firmly in the ground, or they may be blown down by strong winds. More slender poles may be used if placed in a triangular form, about three feet from each other at the base, and the ends brought together at the

THE FLOWER GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

top. Tie them together there with strong tarred cord, or with stout copper wire. They will, in this form, stand the strong gales much better than when planted singly. The tree fern makes the best poles for this purpose. Should you adopt the triangular pillar, you may either plant three roses of the same variety, or have three different kinds – planting one at the foot of each pole. This being a matter of taste, we may leave the choice to the cultivator. Train the roses from pole to pole, so as to completely hide them when in full foliage and flower; and they will then form a beautiful tall pyramid of flowers. Previous to planting the roses, make the soil very rich, as you require these roses to grow quickly in order to flower freely, and cover the pillars as soon as possible. Pillar roses should receive a kind of temporary pruning about the end of May. At that time shorten-in the long straggling branches only. At the end of August prune-in the side shoots to three or four eyes, and tie in the leading ones to nearly their full length. Take away all strong coarse shoots – those robbers of the strength which ought to be husbanded to nourish the flower-bearing branches.

Dahlias, when placed in masses, and the colours tastefully blended, really light up the garden. A bed of crimson and primrose-coloured dahlias has a splendid effect; the contrast, though strong, is very agreeable to the eye, and almost dazzles as we gaze. The dark, nearly black, maroon flowers contrast well with some of the paler sorts – and the deeper the shades, the more velvet-like the bloom. The single dahlias, particularly the scarlet, are very elegant; but there is such richness in the double flower, such exquisite precision in the finely-fluted petals, that it is impossible not to prefer them. Beautiful and wonderful is every flower that blows; but there is something extremely striking in the 'quilling' of the dahlia, and in the neatness and firmness of its form. All who possess a garden should cultivate this lovely flower.

The Pansies are such rich gay flowers, and bloom on so unweariedly, that no garden should be without them. The variety of colour in this lovely family is great, and the tints usually are strong and lively. They look best

in single beds, where their showiness may be seen to the best advantage; and if some taste is exercised in mixing the colours, the effect is admirable. They prefer a cool moist situation, but should not be shaded.

Bouquets. – One of the most beautiful bouquets I ever saw was composed of a mass of scarlet geraniums interspersed with fairy white roses, and surrounded by half-blown double white camelias. A very pretty bouquet for mourning may be formed of white flowers surrounded by double violets. No bouquet is good without a rich green and a dead white. The flowers should be arranged in masses. For instance, gather myrtle for the green, scarlet geranium, a large tea-scented rose or two, a gardenia or italian jessamine (if not come-at-able, some common jessamine), some golden calceolaria, and a bunch of nemophylla insignis or blue salvia, and we have the three primitive colours at once, which cannot fail to to be pleasing to the eye, whether in painting, needlework, or the furniture of a room – in fact, in every artificial arrangement of colours. [The three primitive colours, from which all others may be composed, are red, blue, and yellow.] I have never been able to make a small nosegay look well where purples and lilacs were introduced, unless all reds and blues were excluded. In a large vase, of course the compound colours may be separated from the primitive, and look extremely well. [The compound colours, so far as flowers for bouquets are concerned, are orange, green, indigo, and violet.] The flowers I have named are selected because they are found in every garden. Crassula coccinella would be a splendid substitute for the geranium, dwarf magnolia for the rose, and blue achimines for the salvia. The plumbago larpentae is also a lovely flower for the purpose. A bouquet for the hand should be formed by winding a long string round the centre flower and successively round each as it is placed, which will bind them firmly together.

Advice to Ladies, by one of their own sex. – Let me recommend "my sisters" to spend much of their summer days in their garden. Let them use proper caution, but let them live as much as possible in the open air; it is in itself a medicine, and I can speak from long ex –

THE FLOWER GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

perience that it strengthens, and hardens, and cures. It raises the spirits, diverts the mind often from things that are not in themselves delightful, and fills it with rational and pleasant thoughts.

PROPAGATION.

Dividing the Root. – This is one of the most simple methods of propagation. The root of the growing plant is partially uncovered, and one or more portions is removed; the root is then covered up, and the detached parts transplanted in soft earth prepared to receive them. Nine-tenths of herbaceous perennials may be treated in this way.

Suckers. – These are young shoots thrown up from the roots of the main plant, round which they cluster. They may be removed by taking up along with them a part of the root, as in the preceding method. They should be removed in the autumn or spring, and immediately planted out.

Layers. – Nothing is more easy than to propagate by causing the layers of some plants to take root. In the case of the carnation and pink, the young side shoots called grass are selected for layering. The shoots are stripped of their lower leaves, and the stem is cut half through by an oblique slit near the base; it is then fixed to the ground, with a hooked stick or peg, and is covered slightly with mould, giving a little moisture.

Pipings. – Take off the upper and young part of each shoot close below a joint, with a sharp knife, cutting each off at the third joint, or little knob; and then cut the top leaves down pretty short, and take off the lower and discoloured ones. When you plant the pipings, let the earth be light and sandy, and recently loosened; dibble no hole, but gently thrust each piping half way down into the soft earth, and fix it in the bed. Water them often if the weather is dry, but moderately, just to keep them moist, and shade them from the hot sun in the day.

Cuttings are strong shoots cut from the parent stem or branch, and set in the ground. The cuttings should be cut off slantingly and smoothly, and the soil requires to be dry or not two moist.

MONTHLY FLOWER GARDEN CALENDAR.

JANUARY.

Take up bulbs as their foliage decays, and supply their places with annuals or other plants. Pipings of carnations, pinks, and picotees, may be put in, watered and shaded. Thin out weak branches of dahlias, and keep the plants neatly and securely tied. Bud roses; destroy weeds and insects whenever detected.

FEBRUARY.

The pansy may now be propagated by cuttings for early flowering next season. Select the young side shoots, in preference to the old hollow stems, place them in a sandy compost, and shade them from the hot sun. The same directions apply to verbenas. Hydrangeas may now be also struck. The tops of the strongest shoots that are not likely to flower this season will make the best cuttings. This is the best time for striking cuttings of the calceolaria, though they will root at any time. Seeds of calceolaria should now be sown; if deferred until spring, they do not flower that season. Petunias and pelargoniums (geranium) may also be struck. Collect flower seeds as they ripen.

MARCH.

All operations neglected last month should be attended to without delay. Polyanthus, and herbaceous plants generally, should be increased by dividing their roots. Put in cuttings of the various kinds of evergreen shrubs.

APRIL.

Chrysanthemums will now be in flower, and should be made secure to stakes, or the high winds will damage their beauty; watering them with weak liquid manure will cause them to flower finely. Sow annuals in poor soil – autumn sown are always the earliest, and frequently the handsomest; they will be ready for spring planting

THE FLOWER GARDEN, BY H. J. HAWKINS.

when the beds and borders are put into proper order. Cuttings of china roses, struck now, will make blooming plants early next season. This is the proper season to commence planting bulbs. Anemone, plant roots of, in drills two inches deep, the tubers five inches apart. Cut down all decaying flowers, and tie up the remainder.

MAY.

Every opportunity should be taken for planting flowering shrubs, such as roses, flowering currants, italian may, pyrus japonica, laurustinus, azalias, rhododendrons, hatrothamnus, clianthus puniceus, buddlea globosa, &c.; and prune those already established. Herbaceous plants should be put out without delay. Plant bulbs. Phloxes now readily increase by dividing the roots. Sow annuals. If any fresh arrangements are to be made in the flower beds, this is the season for doing it.

JUNE.

Take up dahlia roots, let them dry gradually, and when quite dry, store them away, fixing their labels securely to them. Should any bulbs remain unplanted, choose the first interval of open weather to get them in. All operations neglected last month should be attended to this.

JULY.

Continue to plant flowering shrubs. Plant out wallflowers, Brompton stocks, hollyhocks, sweet-williams, &c., and seeds of annual flowers may now be sown. Ranunculus roots plant, in drills about two inches deep, and five inches apart; choose the roots for having full prominent buds, in preference to size.

AUGUST.

Stir up the surface of the soil round all flowers, in order to promote the free growth and blooming of the plants, and prune and trim flowering shrubs. Sow annuals. Plant carnations, pinks, chrysanthemums, fuchsias, and other flowering plants, and endeavour to arrange them according to their colours. Chinese roses, and those of robust growth, should now be pruned; but strong-growing varieties should not be shortened much, except those shoots intended to produce wood for next season.

SEPTEMBER.

Sow seeds of all kinds of annuals. Petunias may easily be propagated by cuttings during this and the next six months; the best cuttings are the young tops of rather weakly growing plants. Fuchsias, propagated by cuttings now, will make fine flowering plants by December. Propagate the pansy by cuttings for autumn flowering – young plants produce the largest and finest flowers. (See February.) As little delay as possible should be permitted in all planting operations now, as the vigour and strength of trees and shrubs will be materially checked, and their beauty injured, by being moved when vegetation is much advanced. Let everything be now done which has been left undone.

OCTOBER.

Dahlias planted now will throw up fine cuttings, which will freely root if planted in a warm and dry situation. The shoots should be taken off when about three inches long. It is unnecessary to strike cuttings if the roots can be divided into as many pieces, each containing an eye, as there are plants required – the buds should be allowed to shoot before they are divided. Place a stake at the side of each root when planted. Plant in a situation sheltered from high winds. Remove the weak flower stems from pinks, &c.

NOVEMBER.

Some of the quick growing annuals may yet be sown, such as clarkia, collinsia, gillia, Virginian stock, &c. As soon as the foliage of the ranunculus, anemone, hyacinth, tulip, and other bulbous roots turn yellow, they should be taken up, and their places supplied with annuals or other plants. Handle the anemone and ranunculus with care, for fear of breaking their claws. Roses may be budded towards the end of the month – if your collection is not good, lose no time in renewing them.

DECEMBER.

Keep dahlias neatly and securely tied up, and water if necessary. Clean all plants of decayed flowers, and keep the garden as neat and clean as possible. Bud roses.

[Tables and Index]

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

CATTLE KEEPER'S CALVING TIME TABLE,

Showing when Forty Weeks or Nine Months will expire.

SHEEP FARMER'S LAMBING TIME TABLE,

Showing when Five Months will expire.

THE NUMBER OF DAYS OR MEAN PERIODS.

Mare, 347 days; Cow, 283; Ewe, 154; Sow, 115; Goat, 156; Dog, 60; Cat, 50; Rabbit, 2S; Hen, 21; Duck, 30; Turkey, 26; Goose, 30; pigeon, 18.

INDEX.

Advice to ladies... ... ... ... 94

Apple, culture of... ... ... ... 84

April bush farming operations, by A. McEwin... 14

" " farm operations by J. May ... ... 54

" " field operations by D. Hay ... ... 26

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... ... 36

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay ... ... 45

Arrangement of flowers ... ... ... 91

Artichokes, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 76

Asparagus, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 74

August bush farming operations, by A. McEwin... 16

" " farm operations, by J. May ... ... 59

" " field operations, by D. Hay ... ... 29

" " garden operations, by D. Hay... ... 39

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay... ... 47

Auckland, appearance of, to a stranger... ... 5

Bone dust, value of, and how to apply it ... 69

Borecole or kale cultivation of by H. J. Hawkins... 71

Bouquets, how to make ... ... ... 94

Broad beans, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins... 73

Brocoli, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 71

Bush clearing, sowing, and planting... ... 13

Bush life, first experience of... ... ... 6

Cabbage, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 70

Carrot, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 72

Cauliflower, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins... 70

Celery, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 74

Cherry, culture of, by H. J. Hawkins... ... 85

Climate of Auckland... ... ... ... 9

Compost heap, value of, for a garden ... ... 68

Cucumber, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins... 75

Dahlias, culture of... ... ... ... 93

Dairy farming, by J. May... ... ... 62

December bush farming operations, by A. McEwin 20

" " farm operations, by J. May ... 64

December field operations, by D. Hay... ... 33

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... 42

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay ... 50

Disbudding... ... ... ... ... 86

Dividing the roots ... ... ... ... 95

Draining garden ground... ... ... 67

Farm management, by Joseph May ... ... 51

February bush farming operations, by A. McEwin 13

" " farm operations, by J. May... ... 52

" " field operations, by D. Hay... ... 24

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... 35

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay ... 44

Field operations, by David Hay ... ... 23

Fig, culture of, by H. J. Hawkins ... ... 86

Fishing... ... ... ... ... 22

Flower garden calendar ... ... ... 96

Flower garden management, by H. J. Hawkins... 66

Flower garden, by H. J. Hawkins ... ... 89

Fruit garden calendar ... ... ... 87

Fruit garden management, by H. J. Hawkins ..... 80 & 66

Fruit trees, selecting... ... ... ... 80

Fruit trees, how to arrange... ... ... 80

Garden in the bush, how to lay out ... ... 12

Garden operations, by David Hay ... 23 & 34

Garden, proper situation for, by H. J. Hawkins... 66

Grafting and budding... ... ... ... 83

Grass sowing in the field ... ... ... 25

Gooseberry, culture of ... ... ... 87

Guano, how to apply to garden ground... ... 68

Harvesting operations, by J. May ... ... 51

Hawkins' kitchen, fruit, and flower garden ... 66

Hay making, by J. May ... ... ... 65

Hay's field, garden, and orchard management... 23

House building in the bush... ... ... 11

How to settle on a bush farm... ... ... 9

January bush farming operations, by A. McEwin... 20

" " farm operations, by J. May ... ... 51

" " field operations, by D. Hay ... ... 23

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... ... 34

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay... ... 43

Jerusalem artichoke cultivation ... ... 77

June bush farming operations, by A. McEwin... 15

June farm operations, by J. May ... 56

" " field operations by D. Hay ... ... 28

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... ... 37

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay ... ... 46

July bush farming operations, by A. McEwin... 16

" " farm operations, by J. May ... ... 57

" " field operations, by D. Hay ... ... 29

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... ... 38

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay ... ... 47

Kidney bean, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins... 73

Kitchen garden monthly calendar, by H. J. Hawkins ... 78

Kitchen garden management, by H. J. Hawkins ... 66 & 70

Layers, how to make... ... ... ... 95

Laying out a garden... ... ... ... 90

Maize, sowing and growing, by D. Hay... ... 31

Maize cultivation, by J. May... ... ... 63

Manure for a garden, the best... ... ... 67

Manure, sorts for different crops ... ... 57

March bush farming operations, by A. McEwin... 14

" " farm operations, by J. May ... ... 53

" " field operations, by D. Hay ... ... 25

" " garden operations, by D. Hay... ... 35

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay... ... 44

May bush farming operations, by A. McEwin... 15

" " farm operations, by J. May ... ... 54

" " field operations, by D. Hay ... ... 27

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... ... 37

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay ... ... 45

McEwin's guide to bush settlers ... ... 9

November bush farming operations, by A. McEwin .... 19

" " farm operations, by J. May... ... 64

" " field operations, by D. Hay... ... 32

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... 41

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay ... 49

October bush farming operations, by A. McEwin... 19

" " farm operations, by J. May ... ... 62

" " field operations, by D. Hay ... ... 31

" " garden operations, by D. Hay... ... 40

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay... ... 48

Onion, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins... ... 73

Orchard operations, by David Hay... 23 & 43

Pansy, culture of... ... ... ... 93

Parsnip, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 72

Peach, culture of, by H. J. Hawkins... ... 85

Pea, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins... ... 72

Pear, culture of... ... ... ... 84

Pipings, how to make ... ... ... 95

Planting fruit trees... ... ... ... 81

Plum, culture of... ... ... ... 84

Potatoe, cultivation of, by J. May ... ... 53

Potatoe culture, whole and cut sets ... ... 60

Potatoes, cultivation of ... ... ... 77

Propagation of plants ... ... ... 95

Pruning and training... ... ... ... 81

Pumpkin, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 76

Quince, culture of ... ... ... ... 87

Rhubarb, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 76

Root-pruning ... ... ... ... 82

Rose, culture of ... ... ... ... 92

Scarlet – runner bean, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 73

September bush farming operations, by A. McEwin ... 17

" " farm operations, by J. May... ... 61

" " field operations, by D. Hay... ... 30

" " garden operations, by D. Hay ... 40

" " orchard operations, by D. Hay ... 48

Small gardens, by H. J. Hawkins ... ... 90

Soil best suited for a garden... ... ... 66

Sorgum sacharatum cultivation ... ... 32

Sowing thick and thin – late and early ... ... 55

Stopping... ... ... ... ... 86

Strawberry culture ... ... ... ... 86

Thinning out ... ... ... ... 86

Tobacco, how to cultivate... ... ... 17

Tools required for bush work... ... ... 10

Trenching garden ground... ... ... 66

Turnip, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 71

Vegetable marrow, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 76

Vegetables, cultivation of, by H. J. Hawkins ... 70

Vine, grape culture of ... ... ... 85

Wages of domestic servants... ... ... 8

Printed at the Daily Southern Cross Office, O'Connell Street.

[Page 105 is blank]

[Back cover]

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