Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand [Vol.I]

J.L. Nicholas

First published by James Black and Son in 1817

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927279-00-7

[HALFTITLE]

NARRATIVE

OF A

VOYAGE

TO

NEW ZEALAND,

INCLUDING

A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY, AND INCIDENTAL REMARKS ON THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS AND POLITICAL ECONOMY OF THE NATIVES;

TOGETHER WITH

Supplementary Observations on the Origin of the People,

AND THE SOIL, CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.

VOL. I.

HUGHES AND BAYNES, PRINTERS, 29, MAIDEN-LANE, COVENT-GARDEN.

[FRONTISPIECE]

A Chief of New Zealand
Published Sept 1. 1817 by James Black & Son Tavistock St. Covent Garden.

[TITLE PAGE]

NARRATIVE
OF A
VOYAGE
TO
NEW ZEALAND,

Performed in the years 1814 and 1815,
IN COMPANY WITH THE REV. SAMUEL MARSDEN,
Principal Chaplain of New South Wales.

BY
JOHN LIDDIARD NICHOLAS, ESQ.

– – – – utilitati consulens hominum et ei quam saepe commemoro, humanae societati.
Cicero de Offic. lib. iii. cap. 5.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

London:
PRINTED FOR JAMES BLACK AND SON,
TAVISTOCK-STREET, COVENT-GARDEN.
M.DCCC.XVII.

[PREFACE]

PREFACE.

THE following Narrative was composed from a journal which the Author kept during his voyage to New Zealand; and for the sake of minutely particularizing the incidents in their proper order, he has still preserved an uninterrupted succession of dates up to the period of his departure from that island; avoiding, however, as much as it was practicable, that abrupt formality of statement which the journal form prescribes. Besides, the New Zealanders are a people so little known to Europeans, and at the same time so peculiarly interesting, that he conceived an account of the daily occurrences he met with during his short intercourse with them, would be more acceptable to the reader than any

general detail. But as this plan obliged him to conform to the order of time and circumstance, he was necessarily restricted from treating diffusely on particular subjects, however closely connected with the country and its inhabitants. To supply this defect, the Author has subjoined, under the head of Supplementary Observations, such topics as could not be introduced or dilated on in the Narrative, without too long a suspension of the train of events.

Aware that accuracy of narration must constitute the chief merit of a work like the present, the Author has been scrupulously exact with respect to it. The occurrences which came under his own observation are detailed with a strict regard to truth, nor has he admitted any statements on the authority of the natives, without examining the veracity and motives of the persons who made them. Many of the incidents possess a considerable degree of interest, while even those which seem trifling in themselves are yet parti-.

cularly important, as they tend to develope the character of man in the wildest state of ferocious barbarism; and it will be recollected, that in civilized as well as in savage life, the dispositions of individuals are often best discovered in matters apparently insignificant. The object of the Author in visiting New Zealand is stated in the commencement of the work, where he has endeavoured to render justice to the views of the benevolent Gentleman whom he accompanied; and this Narrative, while it embraces other topics, is also a record of that Gentleman's proceedings in the cause of humanity.

In the course of the Narrative, as well as in the supplementary part, the Author has appealed occasionally to the authority of Captain Cook and the learned Doctor Forster, for the sanction of some of his remarks; though in treating of cannibalism as it prevails in New Zealand, he found it necessary to differ from their separate opinions. He must, however, acknowledge himself much

indebted to both these Gentlemen, and to the latter in particular, for the information he has derived from his philosophical researches.

The Author has been enabled to give in this work a faithful account of the destruction of the ship Boyd, which in the year 1809 was cut off by some tribes in New Zealand, and the crew and passengers all massacred and devoured, except four individuals. The particulars of this horrible enormity he has related as they were detailed to him by the chief perpetrator, a savage of the most ferocious disposition.

In tracing the origin of the New Zealanders to the continent of Asia, the Author does not mean to adhere pertinaciously to the hypothesis he has assumed; his object being only to advance such arguments ou the subject as appear best supported by analogy, without presuming in any instance to categorical affirmation. If it should be objected to this work, that it does not take an enlarged

and comprehensive view of New Zealand and its inhabitants, the Author's reply is, that in the first place he should distrust his abilities for such a task; and secondly, did he deem himself equal to it, a few short weeks would not be sufficient for its completion. During the limited time he sojourned in that remote country, he let no occurrence that was worthy of being noticed escape his industry; and though an abler pen might in the same short period have given a more finished detail, still he trusts that the result of his observations may not be uninteresting to the public.

18, Southampton-Row, Russell Square,
August, 1817.

[Page x is blank]

[CONTENTS]

CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAP. I.

Introductory remarks – Benevolence of Mr. Marsden – Mission to New Zealand proposed by him to the Missionary Society – Approved, and Missionaries chosen – Tippahee, a New Zealand chief, visits Port Jackson – Particulars respecting him – Duaterra, his successor, brought to New South Wales – Some account of him – Character of the Missionaries – The disposition of the natives tried and found favourable – Mr. Marsden resolves on going with the Mission himself – The Author's reason for accompanying him – Second visit of Duaterra to Port Jackson – Two other chiefs come with him – Description of them – New Zealanders abhorred at Port Jackson – Proclamation of the Governor - - Page 1-34

CHAP. II.

Port Regulation – The abuse of it censured – The form explained – We are detained a week in

Watson's Bay – A sudden change in the behaviour of the chiefs – The reason of it – Duaterra is undeceived – Censure of malignant calumniators – Success of the Missionaries in Otaheite – We set sail – Journal of the voyage kept – A convict is concealed on board the ship – Pursued, but cannot be found – The crew and passengers get violently sea-sick – Ludicrous behaviour of Korra-korra – The chiefs entertain us with a song – Opinions of the New Zealanders on the creation of the world – Their gods – Two curious traditions among them – A ceremony resembling baptism practised by them – 35-62

CHAP. III.

Journal continued – Witticism of Tui – Remarkable expression of Duaterra – Bad weather – The crew all sick again – Voracious appetite of the New Zealanders – The weather changes and becomes fine – Gaiety of the New Zealanders – Specimens of their songs – War exhibition by Korra-korra – Account of his escape from Captain Seddons – Duaterra resumes the dress of his native country – Description of it – Superstitious prediction – We pass the islands called the Three Kings – Description of them – Arrive at the North Cape – The sea boisterous there – Captain Cook's danger – Communication opened with the natives – The chiefs go on shore – Two canoes visit us, bringing a chief who comes on board – His behaviour and dress described – Affection of the New Zea-

landers – Dirty in their persons – Other canoes arrive – Traffic opened – Cupidity of the sailors – Restraints imposed – Visited by Tarapeedo, a young chief – Account of Jem the Otaheitan – Several other canoes arrive – Duaterra returns – Dissuades Mr. Marsden from going on shore – The ship gets under weigh. – The coast described .....63-99

CHAP. IV.

Departure from the North Cape – Arrive at Doubtless Bay – Duaterra's account of it – Dissuaded from landing there – Proceed on our course – Arrive at the harbour of Wangeroa – Description of the coast – Reach the Cavalles – Land upon one of the islands – Arrive at a village – Description of the huts – An excursion into the interior of the island – Natural productions – Beautiful prospect – Affecting interview of Korra-korra with his relations – Arrival of a young chief – Return to the ship – Death of a New Zealander – Shunghi visits his territory – We anchor between the Cavalles and the main land – Meeting between Duaterra and the chief of the tribe of Wangeroa – Reconciliation between them – We go on shore – Arrive at an encampment of warriors – - 100-125

CHAP. V.

Invitation to approach the camp – Reception – Description of the warriors – Their dress and weapons

– Character of the chief George – We return to the village, and dine there in public – Venerable old men – Description of the village and the adjacent country – We revisit the camp, intending to spend the night there – Supper prepared – Circumstances respecting the Boyd – George's account of the cutting off of that vessel – Cruelty and imprudence of the Captain – The horrid massacre of all the crew and passengers occasioned by it – Reflections on that catastrophe – The warriors retire to rest – Our awful situation – Remain in security through the night – Strange appearance of the camp in the morning – - 126-156

CHAP. VI.

Reflections suggested by the preceding night – The Wangeroa chiefs are invited on board the ship – Cordially received – Duaterra arranges the form of making presents to them – Respect of the New Zealanders for old age – Duaterra's caution to George – The chiefs return on shore – Advice to commanders of ships on visiting this island – Passion of the natives for axes and fire-arms – The ship gets under weigh – Arrives at Point Pocock – Enters the Bay of Islands – Description of the harbour and its vicinity – Korra-korra being visited by his brother and son, proceeds to his district – The Author and Mr. Marsden go on shore – Proceed to the town of Rangehoo – Followed by crowds of the natives, all happy to see them – Surprise occasioned by the sight of the cattle –

Incredulity – Description of Rangehoo – Duaterra's residence and family – A present made to his head wife – Widow and daughter of Tippahee – A New Zealand beauty – A dance and song by three females – The Author and his friend return to the ship – Revisit the island next day – Clemency of Duaterra towards the seducer of one of his wives – Adultery punished with death in New Zealand – Curious distinction as to the guilt of the parties.....157-186

CHAP. VII.

The natives again assemble in crowds – Forwardness of the women – Tippahee's nephew – A consecrated place – Not allowed to approach it – The Author invited by the natives to partake of the fern-root, which is their principal food – Manner of preparing it – Industry of Duaterra's head wife – Visit of state from Korra-korra – Description of the scene – He brings some presents to the Author and his friend – A grand sham-fight – Curious manner of commencing it – An intrepid queen and her female warriors – Mary and her canoe – Place of worship prepared by Duaterra – Divine service performed there on Christmas-day – Behaviour of the chiefs and their people on this occasion – Visit to the timber district – Description of the chief Tarra – His politeness and hospitality – His young wife, Mrs. Goshore – Return to the vessel – Two fugitive convicts come on board – Their wretched - appearance – The manner of their getting to New

Zealand – Their severe treatment among the natives, and the reason of it – - 187-219

CHAP. VIII.

The Author and his friends proceed to the principal timber district on the Cowa-Cowa – Visit the chief Tekokee – Description of him – The forests and surrounding country described – Curious practice with regard to thieves – Tarra, Mrs. Goshore, and Tupee, found on board by the Author and his party on their return – Character of Tupee – Trees and shrubs – The climate better than that of New South Wales – Excursion to visit the chief Warrakee – Fisheries – Fish plentiful, and their manner of dressing it – Excellent situation for a settlement – Desire of the missionaries to establish themselves there – Opposed by Mr. Marsden – The chief Pomaree visits the Active – His character – Excursion to Wycaddee – Specimen of New Zealand wit – Ingenuity of the children – District of the chief Wiveeah – Obliging disposition of the natives – Some forests visited – - 220-247

CHAP. IX.

Return to Wycaddee – Jealousy and discontent of Wiveeah – Description of a village and the adjacent scenery – A leper – Alarm and curiosity of the natives – Tommy Drummond met by his mother; their affecting interview – An interesting family – Gunnah takes leave of the Author and

his friends, and returns to Rangehoo – His services very useful – Visit of Korra-korra and a party of his friends, including his uncle, the chief Bennee – The Author and Mr. Marsden return with them on shore – Progress of their excursion – Prevented from going to Korra-korra's residence, and invited by Bennee to visit his own district, which is agreed to – Bennee's hippah or garrison – Singular superstitions – Ridiculed by he Author, and defended by Tui – Disagreeable night spent – Occasional remark on the plantations – Arrival at an agreeable village, plentifully supplied with provisions – – Extraordinary and disgusting voracity – The party, with the Author, return to the vessel – Traffic with the natives commenced – - 248-284

CHAP. X.

Arrival of more of the natives to trade with the ship – Their shrewdness in making bargains – Curious distinction of rank – The areekees, or superior chiefs – The power of the chiefs generally absolute – Their pride and vanity – Their marriage alliances confined to their own rank – Visit of Duaterra with provisions – His account of a meeting between himself and a hostile chief – Barbarous cruelty of Pomaree – Malignity of the chiefs towards each other – Tarra's slander of Tippahee, and its dreadful effects – Arrival of new visitors, and a description of their canoe – Traffic recommenced – An excursion on shore by the Author and his friend – -Maternal affection – Prudence of

the New Zealanders in laying up provisions – Reflections on it – Artifice of Pomaree – His proficiency in a barbarous art – Mr. Marsden's caution against exhibiting it on board ..... 285-312

CHAP. XI.

Return of the Author and his party to Rangehoo – The buildings commenced – Scenes presented to the Author in a short excursion – Visit to the queen of Tippoonah – Arrival of Shunghi and his brother Kangeroa – Divine service performed on shore – The Author and Mr. Marsden proceed with Shunghi to Wyemattee, his place of residence – Some particulars of the calamity that befel Tippahee and his tribe – Singular contrivance of Shunghi – Manner of cooking potatoes – Local descriptions – Gaiety of Shunghi's people – Friendly reception at the village of a chief – Refreshments taken there – Arrival at Wyemattee – Great strength of the hippah, and its remarkable fortifications – Its population and interior buildings – Excursion to Lake Morberree – Its inviting situation, and the advantages it offers for forming a principal settlement there – Suggestions of the Author to that effect – – 313-348

CHAP. XII.

Return from Lake Morberree – Remark of Tui – Departure from a friendly village, and occurrences on the way – The Author and his friends arrive

again at the residence of Shunghi – Arrival at the village of the chief Tarriar, with remarks on the land contiguous to it – Scrupulous observance of the taboo – Tattooing instruments, and manner of performing that operation; with its physical effects – The party joined by Duaterra – A boat race between him and Shunghi – Return to the ship – The missionarys settled in their new habitation – Inquiry into a charge of seduction, and the issue of it – Expedition to the river Thames, with the names and description of the persons composing it – Arrival at the Cavalles – Two canoes visit the ship – Duaterra's formidable reception of them – The Author accompanies Duaterra in pursuit of a thief – Incidents on that occasion, and return of the party...... 349-381

CHAP. XIII.

Departure from the Cavalles – Mirth of Duaterra's warriors – The New Zealanders addicted to falsehood – An instance of it in a groundless story related by Korra-korra – The ship arrives at Bream Head – Is visited by a neighbouring chief – Duaterra's hostile display before him, and his motives for it – Arrival of more visitors from the shore – The ship proceeds on her course, and enters the liver Thames – Anchors there at some distance from its mouth – Shoupah, the areekee, comes on board, and receives presents – His extensive power and warlike character – His allies, and the expedition they were then going upon – The ship sails

up towards his district – Is delayed by a violent wind, which Korra-korra curiously accounts for – Visited by the chief Phiti – Gunnah's traffic – Arrival at Shoupah's village – The men all absent from it – A frightful mourner found there – The Author and his friends visit the residence of Phiti – Trade commenced with the natives – Traffic in slaves carried on in New Zealand – Return to the vessel – Phiti and his friends repeat their visit on board – Their mirthful departure – Contradictory opinions of Duaterra and one of his countrymen respecting them .... 382-409

CHAP. XIV.

Departure from the river Thames – Captain Cook's account of that place – The ship enters Bream Bay – Description of it – Affair between the Author and Korra-korra – Arrival at a small bay – Explored by the Author and Mr. Marsden – The ship visited by Moyhanger, a native who had been brought to England – Some particulars respecting him – Mr. Marsden and the Author invited by him to go on shore – His disgrace and expulsion from his native district – – 410-431

CHAPTER I

NARRATIVE
OF A
VOYAGE TO NEW ZEALAND.

CHAP. I.

Introductory remarks – Benevolence of Mr. Marsden – Mission to New Zealand proposed by him to the Missionary Society – Approved, and Missionaries chosen – Tippahee, a New Zealand chief, visits Port Jackson – Particulars respecting him – Duaterra, his successor, brought to New South Wales – Some account of him – Character of the Missionaries – The disposition of the natives tried and found favourable – Mr. Marsden resolves on going with the Mission himself – The Author's reason for accompanying him – Second visit of Duaterra to Port Jackson – Two other chiefs come with him – Description of them – New Zealanders abhorred at Port Jackson – Proclamation of the Governor.

OF all the various islands in the Pacific Ocean, there is none with which Europeans in general are so little acquainted as New Zealand; and none, perhaps, which more deserves their particular attention. Ever since the time of Captain Cook, whose enterprising spirit could only be equalled by his indefatigable perseverance, this island has

been almost entirely neglected, and the partial visits made to it, have in no instance been favourable to a permanent intercourse. The persons who at distant intervals resorted thither, were men, as will presently be seen, of callous hearts, who were as little disposed to conciliate the friendship of the rude inhabitants, as they were to pay a due regard to their own character; and, in addition to this, the odium thrown on the natives themselves, by being viewed as ferocious cannibals, served, as it were, to interdict any cordial communication with them. Dreaded by the good, and assailed by the worthless, their real dispositions were not ascertained; the former dared not venture to civilize them, the latter only added to their ferocity.

Too long had they continued in this state of obnoxious barbarism, when a man, whose benevolence is so closely connected with the subject of this narrative, that I must necessarily advert to it, came forward, in the genuine spirit of philanthropy, to rescue their persons from insult, and their minds from ignorance.

The individual to whom I allude, is the Reverend Samuel Marsden, his Majesty's Principal Chaplain in the territory of New

South Wales. This excellent man, not restricting himself to those particular duties which more immediately belong to his appointment, has extended his labours to a more enlarged sphere, and consulted not only the spiritual but the temporal welfare of the numerous savage tribes who inhabit the neighbouring islands. His zeal and activity in vindicating their rights, and opposing the wanton aggressions made both on their persons and property by the unfeeling crews of several merchant-ships, who have long been in the habit of committing every kind of outrage against them with impunity, entitle him not only to the praise of every good man, but even serve to blot out the national disgrace which his country has too long sustained by the frequency of such atrocities. These inhuman practices have been carried to a degree which must shock every lover of humanity, and we have the testimony of Mr. Marsden himself, 1 to shew that even murder has been committed without the least provocation on the part of the unfortunate victims.

Encouraged by the success which has attended the endeavours of the English missionaries, to civilize the inhabitants of Otaheite, in which he is well known to have taken so leading a part, Mr. Marsden had contemplated a similar establishment at New Zealand. The extent of its territory and population, afforded a noble scope for the exercise of his benevolence, and the remarks he had made on the character and genius of the natives of New Zealand, as they occasionally visited Port Jackson, induced him to augur favourably concerning its issue.

In these favourable hopes, however, he stood nearly alone. His plan was by most persons deemed wild and chimerical, and a sacrifice of the life of every one was foreboded, who should venture to carry it into execution. The New Zealanders, as will be seen in another part of this work, were represented at the Colony in the blackest colours; and any attempt to impress their minds with a sense of religion and morality, was judged not only hopeless and impracticable, but rash, absurd, and extravagant.

Not deterred, however, by this discouraging representation of their character, Mr, Marsden still entertained hopes of being

able to execute the design he had formed. He weighed thoroughly and impartially the facts adduced against them, and considered with himself whether the implacable enmity which they were said to harbour in their hearts against Europeans, might not be the consequence of just provocation; and whether the cruelties occasionally committed on the crews of vessels, were more than retaliations of similar outrages.

As an Englishman, he was desirous of shewing to this bold, high-spirited, and inquisitive people, the proper character of his country; and as a Christian, of calling them from their gross idolatries to a knowledge of revealed religion, enlightening their minds and humanizing their pursuits. To a man, however, of less firmness than himself, the numerous and authenticated proofs of a hostile disposition on the part of the New Zealanders, would have been appalling, and subversive of every hope as to the success of the undertaking. Tasman, the first navigator that ever visited the New Zealand coasts, is well known to have had a boat's crew cut off shortly after be had sent them on shore, and to have' been so dismayed at this loss, as to sail away immediately without daring to

make a second attempt. The inhabitants were no less hostile to Dufresne Marion, the Commodore of two French sloops, who in the year 1772 entered the Bay of Islands. They surprised and murdered twenty-eight of the men who were sent on shore, and were very near getting possession of the ships: while no later than the following year, two midshipmen and eight sailors, belonging to Captain Furneaux's expedition, were suddenly surrounded, and not only murdered, but (shocking to relate) eaten by the barbarians who captured them. In addition to these facts, which were but too well ascertained, and afforded more than sufficient proofs to counterbalance the good opinion which Captain Cook entertained of these people, when he ventured to penetrate so far into the interior of their country, and recommended the island as admirably calculated for an European settlement; the fatal attack upon the Boyd 2 was still fresh in the recollection of every one, and left an impression of horror and detestation which nothing could efface. This ill-fated ship having touched at New Zealand in 1809,

while on her return to Europe, was actually seized by the natives in spite of the resistance of the crew, who were all of them murdered, and many of them in like manner eaten.

To any other man except Mr. Marsden, these instances of vengeful enmity would have demonstrated the danger, and shewn the almost total impossibility of bringing such savages to a state of rational improvement; but he was determined to have himself practical experience of the dispositions of some of them before he should abandon his purpose.

That he might be enabled to obtain a clear insight into the character of the New Zealand tribes, he carried home with him from time to time, and took under his roof, such individuals as were occasionally brought to Port Jackson by the different whalers; and as no man is more capable than himself of discriminating the various passions that influence the human heart, the plan he adopted and the practice he pursued were both equally judicious. By minutely inspecting their conduct and tracing their motives, he was led to form an estimate of the character of their savage brethren; and while the natural disposition of his rude guests insensibly developed itself, the result

was no less creditable to themselves than gratifying to their benevolent host.

He found them possessed in an eminent degree of many excellent qualities of the heart that would do honour to the most civilized people; such as a cheerful readiness to the interchange of friendly offices among each other, a natural evenness of temper which never suffered them to break out into any turbulent excesses, unless when war, their great ruling propensity, was present in their minds, and a confidence the most implicit on being once assured of safety.

Among the different New Zealanders thus brought to Port Jackson, some were chiefs or kings, supposed to have considerable influence with their countrymen, who yielded a ready obedience to their authority. The most remarkable of these was Tippahee, who came to the colony during the time of Governor King, from the Bay of Islands, where, by the account he gave of himself, he was a ruler of great power and extensive possessions. Both the Governor and the gentlemen of the colony were particularly attentive to him, nor were they a little surprised to find in a man totally unacquainted with any one rule of civilized comportment, an acute

shrewdness of remark, and nicety of discrimination, which they had never before thought compatible with a state of rude barbarism. The colonists still hold in remembrance many of his remarks, which equally shew the solidity of his understanding and the justness of his conceptions. On our remonstrating with him ou the absurdity and inconvenience of his customs, he immediately censured some of our own as far more ridiculous, and many of his arguments were both rational and convincing. Like most of the New Zealand chiefs, he was highly tattooed, a mode of disfiguring the face which is generally practised by all the savage tribes in the Pacific Ocean. The barbarous process consists in pricking on the face with a sharp instrument, a variety of semi-circular and other figures, and rubbing into the punctures a kind of blue paint, or sometimes charcoal, which gives to the countenance a most disgusting appearance, and makes it truly hideous to the eye of an European. On being laughed at one day by a gentleman for having disfigured his face in so unnatural a manner, the sagacious chief immediately retorted with pointed sarcasm; telling him he was quite as much an object of derision him-

self for having put powder and grease in his hair, a practice which he thought was much more absurd than the tattooing.

He could not reconcile the rigour of our penal code with his own ideas of justice, which were certainly regulated by strong feelings of humanity. A person who had been sent out to the colony as a convict, having stolen some pigs during the time the chief happened to be there, was condemned to death, and Tippahee, on being made acquainted with the crime and the punishment, inveighed against the latter as unnecessarily cruel and unjustly severe. Reasoning on the subject with a great deal of natural logic, he said, if the man had stolen an axe or any thing else of essential utility, he ought to suffer death, but not for stealing a pig, to which he was prompted most probably by hunger. He interested himself very warmly ia favour of the culprit, and earnestly pressed the Governor for his pardon, while dining one day with a large party at his Excellency's table; but he was told it was impossible it could be granted, as the man had acted in direct violation of the laws of his country, which secured to each individual the safe possession of his property, and punished with

death all those who would deprive him of it by theft or robbery. "Then," said Tippahee, "why you not hang Captain – – – ?" pointing to the commander of a vessel, whose name I do not immediately recollect, but who was then sitting at table; – "Captain, he come to New Zealand, he come ashore, and tihi (stole) all my potatoes – you hang up Captain – – – ." The company were much pleased with this strong and pointed reasoning of Tippahee, and the Captain appeared quite abashed at so sudden an exposure of his conduct, for he had in reality acted as the chief represented; having sent a boat's crew on shore with orders to dig up his potatoes, which they did, without offering to make the least remuneration for them. I regret to say that instances of unwarrantable depredations of this kind, are but too common among the commanders of vessels in general, who in their intercourse with savage nations, consider themselves exempt from the observance of all laws either of equity or justice; and, plundering with insatiable rapacity, seem to think that ignorance of civilized customs should exclude man from protection, and that honesty towards their rude fellow-creatures was never meant to be included in the compass of moral duties.

Tippahee, however tenacious at first of his own manners and customs, becoming, during his short residence, more habituated to ours, and acquiring a clearer knowledge of their convenience and utility, gave them a decided preference. He also evinced an anxious desire to profit by them as much as possible; while he held the habits in which he had been educated himself, in the most sovereign contempt. Being taken one day to see a rope-walk, and shewn the method of making small twine, some of which was spun before him and the process explained, he was so affected by the contrast of our enlightened knowledge, with the barbarous ignorance of his own countrymen, that he burst into tears, and exclaimed in the bitterness of his regret, "New Zealand no good!" This fine instance of sensibility can only be appreciated by the man whose soul is equally susceptible of noble impressions, and who being blessed himself with the light of civilization and refinement, can feel for the mind that, wrapped in the darkness of barbarism, is still but too conscious of the gloom that surrounds it. Had this chief made a longer stay at Port Jackson, and been properly instructed in agriculture, there

is no doubt but he would on his return have made considerable improvements among his people, and given them a turn for habits of industry and laudable exertion, which are the first and most necessary steps towards a state of humanized culture. Gratitude is a prominent feature in the character of the New Zealander; and Tippahee, on his return to his own country, did not fail to evince it, for he rendered essential services to the different ships that afterwards touched at the Bay of Islands.

Tippahee, on his decease, was succeeded both in his possessions and authority by a relative of his, who a short time ago was brought to Port Jackson by mere casualty. This man, whose name was Duaterra, formed the fanciful resolution of leaving his country for the sole purpose of seeing King George, and entered as a sailor on board one of our ships, where, I am sorry to say, he was treated with the greatest inhumanity. After suffering numberless hardships and mortifications, he was accidently found by Mr. Marsden when that Gentleman was last in England, on board a vessel then lying at Spithead; from whence he was conveyed by him back again to the South Sea Islands,

as a person who might be very useful to him in forwarding the benevolent purpose which was the object of his voyage. The same ardent desire for acquiring knowledge, which was so strongly displayed by his predecessor, could also be perceived in this young man, who, from the advantage of a longer residence among our people, and a tolerable acquaintance with our language, was better enabled to judge of the abject condition of his own countrymen, while he promised to exert all his influence in order to improve it. He not only readily acquiesced in the proposal of Mr. Marsden to form a Missionary Establishment among his people, for the purpose of disseminating the great truths of Divine Revelation, but expressed an anxious solicitude to have it commenced as soon as possible; and guaranteed to all persons engaged in it, hospitality and kindness from his own tribe, and safe protection from the attacks of any other.

Availing himself of this favourable circumstance, Mr. Marsden, in the year 1810, proposed to the Church Missionary Society, whose Agent he is for carrying into effect their laudable endeavours in this part of the world, that they should send out to New

Zealand, certain proper persons to form a Mission. To this they readily assented, and immediately engaged two persons with their families, Mr. Hall and Mr. King, who embarked with ail possible expedition, accompanied by Mr. Marsden himself. They have since engaged another person for the same purpose, Mr. Kendall, who, with his family, was brought out in the Earl Spencer, the same vessel that conveyed me to these interesting regions. A short time before my arrival, Mr. Marsden purchased a vessel for the service and convenience of the Mission, as likewise to keep up a regular intercourse between the Island and Port Jackson, which he conceived highly necessary, and would be attended with very beneficial consequences.

Before I proceed to a detail of the voyage, I shall beg leave to state the views which Mr. Marsden entertained of these people, and the means he thought best calculated to instruct and civilize them. He knew them to be a race quite different from the natives of Otaheite, who, though in a progressive state of enlightenment, are yet enervated by a relaxing climate, and evince in consequence an almost total inaptitude for mental as well as bodily exertion. On the

contrary, the New Zealanders, a hardy and active people, appear well fitted for useful employment, and are always ready for vigorous enterprise. The former, it is true, have made nearer approaches to something like civilization than the latter, and are by no means deficient in natural genius, would they but exert it; but this superiority arises most probably from their geographical situation, which affording them a frequent intercourse with the other numerous islands by which they are surrounded, gives them at the same time opportunities of improvement, which the New Zealanders, who are detached and remote, cannot possibly possess. Contrasting, therefore, the genius and habits of this people with those of the other Islanders in this immense Ocean, he found them much more prepared for cultivation than the generality of savage tribes, and less tenacious of their own barbarous institutions. But he rightly considered that moral lectures and abstruse religious discourses, however proper at a subsequent period, when the mind became susceptible of their importance, could do but little at first towards reclaiming a people so totally immersed in

ignorance: therefore he resolved on a better plan, and paved the way for introducing the mechanic arts, by creating artificial wants to which they had never before been accustomed, and which he knew must act as the strongest excitement to the exercise of their ingenuity. Accordingly he did not apply to the Society for men only of scriptural attainments, but for experienced and useful mechanics, who could instruct the natives in cultivating their ground, building their houses, and regulating the whole system of their internal and external economy. The choice made by the Society, of the persons sent out for this purpose, was judicious and correct. The two mechanics who had been selected by them, were men of regular and religious habits, and indefatigable industry; the one an excellent carpenter, and the other a shoemaker, who had been previously instructed at the expense of the Society, in the mode of dressing flax, a species of which plant abounds in the island, and is much valued by the inhabitants, but whose mode of preparing it is of course much inferior to that practised in Europe. Mr. Kendall, who acted as schoolmaster, an employment of much consequence to the success of the Mission in this island, was a

man every way qualified for his situation. He joined to mild and persuasive manners, a good stock of useful knowledge, which he had the happy art to impart without appearing rigorous or severe; and above all, was impressed with a strong sense of the importance of religion, the duties of which he strenuously endeavoured to inculcate in others, while, punctually observant, he always took care to discharge them himself. Such were the men whom the Society provided as the guides and instructors of this people; and, in my opinion, none could have been chosen with more suitable qualifications, or better calculated to give efficiency to their benevolent intentions. Mr. Marsden, rightly judging that supplying the wants of the natives gratuitously, would be attended with an exorbitant expense to the Society, and rather retard than promote the grand object of civilization, purchased the vessel to excite a spirit of trade among them, and afford them continual opportunities of exchanging the valuable productions of their island for some of our commodities; besides, he knew it would be necessary that the persons sent out, should be supplied, occasionally, with whatever they might want, in a place where none of the conveniences

of civilized life could be procured. His keeping up a regular intercourse with the island was, therefore, both prudent and considerate, and, as I before stated, he deemed it not only expedient, but likely also to be of important advantage.

Immediately after the arrival of Mr. Kendall in the colony, Mr. Marsden, having made all the necessary arrangements, resolved on forwarding the Mission without loss of time: but, solicitous for their safety, he was anxious first to make a trial of the dispositions of the natives, by sending the vessel well armed and in a state of preparation against any attack, to the territories of Duaterra, where, in the event of their being well received, he intended to establish the settlement. For this purpose, he appointed Mr. Kendall and Mr. Hall to go previously to the island, directing them to set out for the Bay of Islands, and giving them particular orders to use every precaution in their intercourse with the natives, to make themselves acquainted with Duaterra, and the different other chiefs, and to bring him or any of them to the colony, who might evince an inclination to visit it. That they might commence, on their landing, a species of trade with the inhabitants, he supplied them

with whatever articles he thought most proper to be exchanged, and gave them also some presents, which they were to make among certain individuals, as their judgment might direct.

On the return of the vessel, the report they made of the reception they had met with, was highly encouraging, and afforded Mr. Marsden, who very wisely had made this previous trial, the strongest hopes of ultimate success. The rude natives, far from offering them the least molestation, received them, on the contrary, with evident symptoms of real satisfaction, and supplied them, in the most hospitable manner, with all the productions of their island. On being made acquainted with their intention of returning again and fixing their residence among them, they all appeared much delighted, and the chiefs, in particular, were anxious to express the joy they felt, by each of them offering, with pressing earnestness, his own district as the place of their abode. Duaterra, who, as I have stated, became the inheritor of the late chief Tippahee's possessions and jurisdiction, entered into their views with an alacrity and earnestness well worthy the noble object they contemplated, which, it

plainly appeared, he was fully capable of appreciating. Having perfectly satisfied themselves as to the dispositions of the people, and made whatever other observations they deemed necessary on the occasion, they embarked for their return, accompanied by Duaterra, who wished once more to visit Port Jackson, and two other chiefs, who were also extremely desirous of being brought to see the colony. Both Mr. Kendall and Mr. Hall agreed, in representing the part of the island in which they had been, as beautifully picturesque in point of scenery, with a soil that only required the hand of cultivation to produce every thing in the greatest abundance. The climate, they said, was so salubrious and inviting, that, even in the depth of winter, the season of the year they happened to be there, no other change was perceptible, than a few refreshing showers, which gave a mellow and vernal softness to the fields, while no sudden or violent transitions ever disturbed the serenity of the mild atmosphere.

Seeing every thing had thus turned out favourably, and in accordance with his most sanguine hopes, Mr. Marsden now made all the necessary preparations to establish the settlement; and to contribute still more to

its success, came to the resolution of accompanying the members of it himself, in order to superintend their labours, until they should be enabled themselves to proceed with facility. Yet, in forming this meritorious determination, his own private affairs must have been considerably deranged; for, besides having a wife and family, the dearest objects of his solicitude, he had other concerns at the same time of weighty importance, which demanded his personal direction at all hours. However, his zeal for the service of his fellow-creatures, whom he wished to raise from the degradation of gross ignorance to a rank suited to human beings, prevailed over every other consideration, and led him, for the first time of his life, to forego the duties of a husband and a father, which no man in existence knew better how to practise, or, on any other occasion, could more faithfully discharge. The reader, I am persuaded, will indulge this small tribute to the virtues of a gentleman, of whom no language can speak too highly, nor any panegyric distinguish more than he deserves. It now remains for me to state the motives which induced me to become the companion of their voyage, and visit the unfrequented

island which gave occasion to this narrative. Being disappointed in the character of a person at the colony, with whom I intended to engage in some commercial transactions, I had much of my time unemployed, not choosing to make any speculations by myself, until I should have received advices from England. I was thus at liberty to indulge the ardent desire I felt from my earliest days, of learning the manners and customs of different nations, and particularly those with which Europeans in general are but little acquainted, and therefore readily yielded to the solicitations of Mr. Marsden, with whom I lived in habits of close intimacy, to accompany him on his voyage to New Zealand.

As the second visit of Duaterra to the colony afforded me an opportunity of seeing for the first time a person of whom I had heard such frequent mention, I shall in this place give some particulars respecting him and the two other chiefs by whom he was accompanied, and then proceed to an account of the voyage and subsequent events, of all which I kept a regular journal. Duaterra, who was now in the full bloom of youth, was a man of tall and commanding stature, great muscular

strength, and marked expression of countenance: his deportment, which I will not hesitate to call dignified and noble, appeared well calculated to give sanction to his authority, while the fire and animation of his eye might betray even to the ordinary beholder, the elevated rank he held among his countrymen. But besides having from nature a set of regular and expressive features, his face formed in other respects an agreeable contrast to those of his fellow chiefs, for it was not disfigured with the disgusting marks of the tattoo, nor had any other extravagant arts been employed to give it an unnatural embellishment. His complexion was not darker than that of the natives of Spain or Portugal, and in general the lineaments of his countenance assumed the European character. But, however prepossessed by his personal appearance, I was much more forcibly struck with his correct and unobtrusive manners, which, totally contrary to what might be expected from one who had only for so short a period mixed with civilized people, and those only of the rudest order, common sailors, were not only extremely proper and well regulated, but even polite, engaging, and courteous. Thus do we often

find Nature spurn the meretricious aids of art, while asserting her own superiority, she raises even among a nation of barbarians, a distinguished model of the wonders she can effect, and which in every age and country must entitle her to the pre-eminence she claims. Duaterra, like Peter the Great, if I may be allowed in this instance to compare the obscure chief of a savage tribe, with the mighty Emperor of a comparatively savage nation, laboured with indefatigable industry at all sorts of employments; but particularly agriculture, which he wished to introduce among his people, and spared no pains that he might be enabled to instruct them in it on his return. He had the advantage, as I before observed, of being able to speak the English language, so as to be easily understood, having made some proficiency in it during the time he was on board the ship; and he found this of considerable service to him ia his endeavours to improve himself.

Shunghi. a chief of superior rank, and more extensive power than Duaterra, in whose neighbourhood he resided, was induced by his representations to accompany him to Port Jackson. This man had not the same robust figure as Duaterra, but his coun-

tenance was much more placid, and seemed, I thought, handsomer, allowing for the operation of the tattoo, which it had undergone, while it wanted that marked and animated severity which gave so decided a character to the face of his companion. As the mind of Duaterra was disposed chiefly to the pursuits of agriculture, and the desire of acquiring a perfect knowledge of the methods we employed in all its stages, so the genius of Shunghi was bent exclusively on mechanics, for which he shewed an evident predilection, and gave some extraordinary proofs of hia skill and ingenuity. I have seen myself an admirable specimen of his abilities in this line, considering the very rude and imperfect instruments which he was obliged to use on the occasion.. It was a gun that he brought over with him, which he had stocked in so complete a manner, that even the most expert and finished mechanic could not possibly have done it better with the same implements, or have afforded in any one part nicer or more ingenious samples of execution. While at the colony, he gave a still greater proof of his genius by a carving on wood, which excited the admiration of every body who beheld it. The subject represented was the head of

a New Zealander, and the features were described with an astonishing boldness and fidelity, while the fantastic and chequered convolutions of the tattooing were delineated even with a mathematical precision. This man had the reputation of being one of the greatest warriors in his country, yet his natural disposition was mild and inoffensive, and would appear to the attentive observer much more inclined to peaceful habits than to strife or enterprise; a strong instance that man is in every state the creature of education, and liable to be impelled by circumstances to which very frequently neither his head nor his heart will lend its concurrence.

The other chief, whose name was Korra-korra, was the very opposite of the two I have described in habits and disposition, and possessed a soul that seemed to have been cast in quite a different mould. Despising the arts of peaceful industry to which they so sedulously applied themselves, war only was his delight; and to this all his thoughts were turned with an impatient avidity and wild enthusiasm that sometimes assumed the aspect of ungovernable violence. He never recounted the battles he had fought, or the foes he had conquered, without being

transported with a kind of furious exultation; and when desired to sing the war-song, and give a description of his mode of attack, his gestures and manner became outrageous to the very extreme of frenzy; a savage fury took possession for the time of all his senses; his whole frame shook with rage; his eyes glowed with the most horrible ferocity; and, lost in the madness of his passion, the man appeared transformed into a hideous demon of insatiable vengeance. Yet though his soul was led away by this most violent propensity to war, let it not be inferred at the same time, that it was altogether incapable of feeling the influence of the softer affections. No, quite the contrary; the tear of remorse could stream from his eye for having offended any person who had rendered him a kindness, and the expressions of his gratitude, ardent and sincere, left no doubt that his heart was susceptible of its liveliest emotions. I have myself repeatedly seen his turbulent mind yield with easy pliancy to sentiments like these, and although it would have been next to an impossibility to dissuade him from his favourite pursuit, and reconcile his ideas to sober avocations, still the reprimand which he was conscious of deserving, would in-

stantly subdue the vehemence of his temper, and even melt his soul in the bitterness of compunction. Furious to a degree when provoked, his rage knew no bounds; but when well treated, he was both gentle and affectionate; and such too was his fidelity, that when once conciliated by friendship, it might for ever after be confidently relied upon. In his person he might be considered a good specimen of the generality of his countrymen. Like Shunghi, he was highly tattooed all over his face, nor was the unsightly process neglected even on the hinder parts of his body, so great is their love of this extravagant and truly savage operation. His features, though not handsome or regular, were still agreeable and interesting, while at the same time they too often betrayed the lawless ebullitions of an ungovernable spirit.

Each of these chiefs was attended to the colony by a male relation, and Duaterra's remained there after him, under the instruction of a smith, while the other two, Tenana and Tui, returned with the vessel that conveyed us to their country.

The New Zealanders are looked upon at the colony as barbarians of the most ferocious and implacable dispositions; and it was not

without much earnest importunity, that Mr, Marsden obtained leave of absence from the Governor for four months, as his Excellency considered it a most dangerous enterprise for him to venture his life among them; and told him plainly, he did not think himself justified in granting him the permission, though, with extreme reluctance, he yielded to his request.

As for me, I was importuned by all my friends to forego the resolution I had formed, and not trust myself to the hospitality of a people so savage and inhuman, to some of whom I must eventually fall a victim; but it was in vain they attempted to dissuade me, my purpose was fixed; and while I was fully sensible of their affectionate solicitude, I could not for a moment let it interfere to oppose an expedition, which I contemplated with sensations of enthusiastic pleasure.

In order to protect the natives from the customary depredations of vessels touching at the Bay of Islands, Mr. Kendall was, at the desire of Mr. Marsden, sworn in a magistrate; and the following proclamation, published by order of the Governor, appeared in the Sydney Gazette, with the view

of imposing a salutary restraint on the commanders of ships, whose lawless incursions I have already taken occasion to notice.

GOVERNMENT AND GENERAL ORDERS.

"Government House, Sydney, New South Wales, 9th Nov. 1814.
(CIVIL DEPARTMENT.)

"It having been represented to his Excellency the Governor, that the commanders and seamen of vessels touching at, or trading with the islands of New Zealand, and more especially that part of them commonly called the 'Bay of Islands,' have been in the habit of offering gross insult and injury to the natives of those places, by violently seizing on and carrying off several of them, both males and females, and treating them in other respects with injudicious and unwarrantable severity, to the great prejudice of the fair intercourses of trade which might be otherwise productive of mutual advantages; and his Excellency being equally solicitous to protect the natives of New Zealand and the Bay of Islands, in all their just rights and privileges,

as those of every other dependency of the territory of New South Wales, hereby orders and directs, that no master or seaman of any ship or vessel belonging to any British port, or to any of the colonies of Great Britain, resorting to the said islands of New Zealand, shall in future remove or carry therefrom any of the natives, without first obtaining permission of the chief or chiefs of the districts, within which the natives so to be embarked may happen to reside: which permission is to be certified in writing, under the hand of Mr. Thomas Kendall, the resident magistrate in the Bay of Islands, or of the magistrate for the time being in the said district.

"It is also ordered and directed by the authority aforesaid, that no master of any ship or vessel belonging to Great Britain, or any of her colonies, shall land or discharge any sailor or sailors, or other person from ou board his ship or vessel, within any of the bays or harbours of New Zealand, without having first obtained the permission of the chief or chiefs of the place, confirmed by the certificate of the resident magistrate, as in the foregoing case.

"Any neglect or disobedience of these

orders by the masters or seamen belonging to ships or vessels trading from hence to, or having any intercourse with New Zealand, or the adjacent isles, will subject the offenders to be proceeded against with the utmost rigour of the law, on their return hither; and those who shall return to England without resorting to this place, will be reported to his Majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies, and such documents transmitted, as will warrant their being equally proceeded against and punished there, as if they had arrived within this territory.

"And with a view to carry these orders into due effect, his Excellency is pleased to direct that the following chiefs of New Zealand, viz. Duaterra, Shunghi, and Korra-korra, be, and they are hereby invested with power and authority for that purpose; and are to receive due obedience from all persons to whom these orders have reference, so far as they relate to the obtaining permission to remove or carry away any of the natives of New Zealand, or the adjacent isles, or to land or discharge any sailors or other persons thereon. – – – By command of his Excellency the Governor.

"JOHN THOMAS CAMPBELL, Secretary."

The time now arrived when we were to proceed on our destination, and the chiefs, who appeared highly gratified with their visit to the colony, received at their departure a variety of presents from all ranks of the inhabitants. The Governor gave them several articles of very great value to persons in their rude state, in addition to handsome uniforms which he ordered for them, and three cows, one for each of them, with which they were presented. A gentleman conferred on Duaterra a gift, which he knew how to appreciate, and was exceedingly solicitous about, a fine mare; and Mr. Marsden shipped another, together with a stallion, for the use of the settlers, who would find it of infinite advantage in the prosecution of their labours, to be supplied with so serviceable and necessary an animal as the horse. The ship being now ready to sail, having all the other persons on board, and every requisite laid in, Mr. Marsden and myself embarked, together, November 19th, 1814,

1 " – As it is well known that the Europeans have thought it no crime, to murder and plunder these islanders, upon the most trivial occasions, and often from mere wanton cruelty." – Proceedings of the Rev. Samuel Marsden, inserted in the Missionary Register for November 1816.

2 The particulars of the loss of the Boyd will be found in a subsequent part of this work.

CHAPTER II

CHAP. II.

Port Regulation – The abuse of it censured – The form explained – We are detained a week in Watson's Bay – -A sudden change in the behaviour of the chiefs – The reason of it – Duaterra is undeceived – Censure of malignant calumniators – Success of the Missionaries in Otaheite – We set sail – Journal of the voyage kept – A convict is concealed on board the. ship – Pursued, but cannot be found – The crew and passengers get violently sea-sick – Ludicrous behaviour of Korra-korra – The chiefs entertain us with a song – Opinions of the New Zealanders on the creation of the world – Their gods – Two curious traditions among them – A ceremony resembling baptism practised by them.

Among the port regulations existing at the colony, is one which directs that no vessel shall put to sea without having previously mustered the passengers and crew at the Secretary's office, where their names, and other particulars respecting them, are to be formally taken down. The reason assigned for this order is plausible enough; to prevent convicts from making their escape, and debtors from running away without settling with their creditors: but, as a fee of half a crown is required from each individual,

even after his character is proved to be correct, I cannot help thinking that all this preventive caution is used only to fill the purse of the Governor's secretary, who makes no inconsiderable sum by this species of exaction. Mr. Marsden and the New Zealand chiefs were obliged to submit to this demand; and however extremely proper it may be, to preserve an active vigilance over the abandoned and unprincipled, I can see no reason why men of integrity should pay for being approved, and be subject to a regulation, which, in justice, ought never to affect them. The form made use of on these occasions, will be seen by the following specification, which is the clearance of our vessel, the brig Active, 110 tons, for New Zealand.

The Ships Company.

Mr. Thomas Hansen, free settler, master.
Alexander Ross, came free in the Surry.
John Hunter, free by birth in New South Wales.
Thomas Hamilton, free by servitude.
William Campbell, free by certificate.
War-ra-kee, New Zealander.
Tommy, ditto.

Dicka-hee, Otaheitan.
Punnee, Bolabolan.

Passengers.

Rev. Samuel Marsden, principal chaplain of New South Wales.
Mr. William Hall, missionary.
Mrs. Dinah Hall, wife of Mr. William Hall, missionary.
William Hall, aged three years, son to ditto.
Mr. Thomas Kendall, missionary.
Mrs. Jane Kendall, wife of Mr. Thomas Kendall.
Thomas, Henry, and William Kendall, children to ditto.
Mr. John King, missionary.
Mrs. Hannah King, wife of Mr. John King.
Philip King, aged fifteen months, son to ditto.
Thomas Hansen, junior, son to the master.
Mrs. Hannah Hansen, wife to the master.
Walter Hall, convict; specially permitted to embark, on security being given for his return in three years, by the Reverend Samuel Marsden.
Henry, alias Patrick Shaffery, convict; security ditto.

Richard Stockwell, convict; security ditto, by Mr. Kendall.
Mr. John Liddiard Nicholas, free settler.

Duaterra, Shunghi, Korra-korra, Chiefs in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand.

Tui, Jacky Miti, Tommy, Young Shunghi, Tenana, New Zealanders,

In all, 35 persons,

It will easily be supposed that with such a number of persons crowded on board a small vessel, our situation was not very comfortable; yet, besides human beings, we had also cattle, together with sheep and pigs for our live stock, and an immense quantity of poultry, belonging to the missionaries. In short, with the addition of goats, cats and dogs, and a variety of other animals, our ship contained such a heterogeneous collection, that it might justly be said to bear a perfect resemblance to Noah's ark.

The wind being E. S. E. and a strong gale blowing directly into the harbour, we were

detained a whole week in Watson's Bay; and though we made several attempts to get out, we were unable to effect it, as the ship was too clumsily built to sail against the slightest opposition of the weather. During the time we were thus detained, we had the mortification to find the chiefs, on whose good faith the safety and success of the expedition were to depend, gloomy, sullen, and reserved. This strange alteration was particularly observable in Duaterra, who, on all former occasions, was lively and communicative: he appeared quite dejected, a kind of morose melancholy overspread his countenance, and it entirely lost that vivacious animation which it used to display before. The two other chiefs were equally dull; but the symptoms were not so evident as those which he betrayed, for in his face the agitated workings of his soul were clearly perceptible, while his dark brow, knitting itself into indignant frowns, showed us, too plainly, the violence of some internal passion. Surprised and disconcerted at this total change, we knew not to what we should attribute it. The presents they had received, which to them were of considerable value, and calculated to enhance their importance among their countrymen, were distributed

with a strict impartiality, and a particular regard to afford satisfaction to all, without creating the least jealousy in any. Yet, as this was extremely difficult, on account of their being capricious in their choice, and apt to consider the merest trifle as a distinguished preference shown to some one of them above another; we imagined this unusual alteration in their behaviour, might have proceeded from some false notion of this kind. There was no other apparent motive for it that we could perceive, as they had always expressed a desire that we should visit their country, and establish a settlement of our people among them. But this was not the true cause, and, to our very great surprise and alarm, it was one which of all others we could least suppose; a jealousy and distrust of the Missionary establishment, which, from some wicked misrepresentations, they regarded as ruinous to the independence of their country, and fatal to their own influence; while not only their liberties, but even their lives, would be compromised by it. Duaterra, after some hesitation, gave this as the true reason of the change in his own manner, and in that of his companions; and told us plainly, he regretted, from his heart, the en-

couragement he had given us to go to his country; as he was informed by a gentleman at Sydney, that the Missionaries then going, would shortly introduce a much greater number; and thus, in some time, become so powerful, as to possess themselves of the whole island, and either destroy the natives, or reduce them to slavery. The gentleman, he said, desirous to convince him of the truth of this assertion, bid him look at the conduct of our countrymen in New South Wales, where, on their first arrival, they despoiled the inhabitants of all their possessions, and shot the greater number of them with a merciless cruelty; while, in some few years, the whole race of that once happy people would be entirely extinct. This diabolical reasoning succeeded but too well in awakening all the fears and suspicions of Duaterra, who communicated his apprehensions to the other chiefs; and with them appeared suddenly changed, in the manner I have described. Dismayed by the effects of this infamous calumny, we knew not how to act; our hopes of success were entirely built on the protection to be afforded by the chiefs, which now, it appeared, we could have no reason to expect: otherwise, how could a few defenceless

families possibly think of residing among a nation of hostile savages, or venture, for a moment, to believe themselves secure? To proceed, while the chiefs entertained such unfavourable impressions respecting us, would be madness; and to be obliged to return, after we had made all the necessary preparations, which caused a very weighty expense, would be provoking in the extreme. However, we were soon happily relieved from this state of anxious perplexity. Mr. Marsden, after assuring Duaterra that the Missionaries were prompted by no motives either of ambition or avarice, to visit his country, but, on the contrary, were actuated by the most disinterested and benevolent solicitude for the happiness of the New Zealanders, told him he would soon convince him of his own and their sincerity, by instantly ordering the vessel to return to Sydney Cove, where the Missionaries and their families should be landed, and never more think of holding any intercourse with his country. This argument produced an instantaneous effect on the mind of the chief, whose zeal for the civilization of his people, nothing but so abominable a deception as was practised upon him could counteract; and who now,

convinced of his error, in supposing Mr, Marsden capable of deluding him, besought that gentleman, with the most anxious entreaties, to proceed; while he re-assured the Missionaries of his protection and fidelity. He did not, however, vouch for the good faith of his companions, who had not the same opportunities as himself of forming an estimate of our character, or knowing the value of our enlightened superiority. On the contrary, he thought that, from the misrepresentations they had heard, they might be prompted to acts of violence on getting to their country, and, for this reason, advised Mr. Marsden to establish the settlement in the Bay of Islands, where he and his tribe could easily protect it. Mr. Marsden, highly gratified at having undeceived him, readily promised to comply with his wishes, and Duaterra immediately resumed all his usual good humour.

But here I cannot help expressing my regret, at not being able to hold forth to public execration, the name of the malignant wretch who could thus poison the mind of the rude barbarian. Duaterra, from a principle of honour, (for this principle exists even among savages,) refused to tell it; but let the base calumniator feel the mere severe punishment

of keen remorse, and let him experience, in the compunctions of a troubled conscience, the just reward of his odious slander. That a man could be found vile enough to shut out, by such means, the light of civilization and improvement from the children of darkness and error, is not only a disgrace to the species, but even a reproach to human nature itself; yet too true it is that there are, at this moment, many such men at the colony, and some even who assume the rank and character of gentlemen. These worthless individuals, whose conduct no epithet, which decency supplies, is sufficient to reprobate, look upon Mr. Marsden with the blackest malignity, and finding his character much too strong for their more infamous assaults, employ the weapons of ridicule against him upon all occasions; but these are quite as ineffectual; the latter he can despise, and the former, at all times, he can boldly repel.

During the time we lay waiting for a favourable wind, the colonial vessel, Campbell Macquarie, arrived in Watson's Bay from Otaheite; the commander, Captain Barnet, brought letters from the missionaries stationed at Eimeo, who wrote very favourably of the friendly disposition of the natives. From

these it appeared that more than a hundred of them regularly attended public worship, and that two hundred of the children were learning to read and write; an excellent proof of their readiness to meet the views of their instructors, and of the rapid progress which civilization was making in that Island. The vessel had been eighteen months from the colony, and brought with her, on her return, a ton of pearl shells, with a few pearls, and about twenty tons of pork.

The wind at length becoming favourable, we were determined to avail ourselves of it without further loss of time, and to put to sea immediately. I shall here insert a journal of the voyage, in the same order as I kept it, beginning with the first day of our leaving the harbour, which was

Monday, November 28th, 1814. – The wind this morning changing more round to the westward, we were enabled to clear the heads or outward extremity of the harbour, and steering an easterly direction, the south head of Port Jackson, from whence we were to take our departure, bore at noon, W. S. W. distant about seven leagues. When passing the heads, we were followed by a boat, and desired by the people in it to deliver up to them a fugitive

convict, who, they said, had contrived to secrete himself on board our ship. Mr. Marsden immediately directed a search to be made, but the person sought for was not to be found, and though the New Zealanders said they had tickee tickee (seen) a strange man, the sailors declared he could not possibly be on board; while appearing satisfied with the report they made, the boat took its departure. However, when we had got to some tolerable distance from the harbour, not only the fellow who was the object of their pursuit, but also another, who had likewise concealed himself, appeared walking oh the deck without the least concern.

Soon after our quitting the port we encountered a smart gale of wind and a heavy swell of the sea, which, tossing about our little ship in all directions, produced an instantaneous effect on every living thing on board. Both the human and the brute species experienced a derangement of their system at the same moment, and bipeds and quadrupeds, of all descriptions and degrees, were equally labouring under the most violent sea-sickness. The New Zealanders, it soon appeared, were not accustomed to attacks of this kind, and were but ill prepared to bear them. They

shook their heads, and said, nuee nuee, mattee mattee, (very ill) and instantly repairing to the places assigned for them to sleep, they never showed themselves till the weather changed, and the convulsion of the sea had entirely subsided. Mr. Marsden was most severely attacked, and could find no rest either in his cot or on deck; above or below was all the same, he still continued a prey to convulsive retchings, and the disorder of his stomach would yield to nothing that was offered, either as a remedy or palliative. This disagreeable complaint had a strange effect on poor Mr. Kendall; it made him forget for the moment that he had a wig upon his head; which falling off, in his endeavours to relieve his stomach, dropped overboard, and left him under the necessity of tying a red handkerchief round his temples, which, with the death-like paleness of his face and the grim languor of his eyes, made him appear so complete a spectre, that he forcibly reminded me of Banquo's ghost. As for me, I had but a very slight attack, which I soon got over; but the scenes of disgusting nastiness, which I was every where obliged to witness, were truly intolerable, and I longed, most impatiently, for the period that was to put an end to them.

Tuesday, November 29th. – The wind having happily abated, our sick people began to recover, and most of them ventured to show themselves upon deck. Duaterra and I played together at drafts, in which the proficiency he had made excited no small degree of surprise. Shunghi employed himself during the whole of this day in making a cartridge-box, in which he displayed his usual ingenuity; but in cutting the holes for the cartridges, being desirous it should contain as many as possible, he made the partitions so very thin that many of them broke, which, to the eye of a mechanic, gave it rather an unfinished appearance. What a pity it is that those powerful talents with which men are frequently endowed by nature, should so often be suffered to remain uncultivated, and that a genius, which might penetrate the researches of science and the secrets of art, must often sink, while conscious of its own powers, in ignoble obscurity! How justly does the poet say,

"Full many a gem of purest ray serene
The dark unfathom'd caves of Ocean bear –
Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
And waste its sweetness on the desert air!"

Had the genius which Shunghi inherited from nature, received the advantages of

judicious instruction, it might, I doubt not, have placed him on a level with some of the first mechanics in Europe, and might have finely completed in the civilized man, what had rudely commenced in the untutored savage.

Wednesday, November 30th. – The weather being extremely fine, with only some light breezes, the ship made very little way, and was forced by a strong current about eight miles to the southward.

Thursday, Dec. 1st. – The weather still fine and clear. Lat. 34 deg. 28" S. Long. 154 deg. 13" E.

That pride and vanity are closely allied to ignorance, is a fact that needs no illustration; and I was not a little amused, this day, with witnessing the connection between them. Korra-korra, while at the colony, was much struck with the formal respect paid to Governor Macquarie, and used to dwell with a kind of envious admiration on the great power with which he was invested; calling him frequently nuee nuee arekee, (a very great king,) and appearing evidently anxious to be raised himself to a similar elevation. Imagining, therefore, that it would add to his dignity to make Governor Macquarie the model of his imitation he was resolved to copy him in all the formalities of his rank, as closely as his rude con-

ception of them would permit, and even to assume his very name, in order, if possible, to identify himself with his envied prototype. His behaviour this morning was truly ludicrous, his imagination being more than usually inspired with this self-created importance. On my going up to salute him, and in a familiar manner addressing him by his name, he immediately drew back, with an affected and haughty air, telling me, he was not Korra-korra, but Governor Macquarie, and expected I would salute him as such. Willing to indulge him in his capricious vanity, I instantly made him a low bow, and paid my respects to him as the Governor; upon which, aping the manner of his Excellency, he held out his hand to me as a mark of his condescension, and made at the same time a slight inclination of his head. He seemed anxious that I should think myself highly honoured, for being thus noticed by a person of his exalted station; and told me he would never again go by the name of Korra-korra, but, on his arrival at New Zealand, should always be called Governor Macquarie. Thus even are the rudest barbarians dazzled with the distinctions of office and the pageantry of power.

Friday, December 2nd. – The weather fine

with moderate breezes. Lat. 34 deg. 54" S. Long. 155 deg. 41 "E.

In a conversation which we had this day with Duaterra, we learned from him that much time is frequently employed by his countrymen in observing certain stars and constellations, which they are very fond of contemplating. They have given names to each of them, and have likewise connected with them some curious traditions, which they hold in superstitious veneration. These traditions have continued among them from time immemorial, and have been carefully preserved and transmitted by their priests, who alone are the depositories of their mystical arcana. According to Duaterra, it is usual with them, in the summer season, to remain awake during the greater part of the night, watching the motions of the heavens, and making inquiries concerning the time when such and such a star will appear. If the star they look for does not show itself at the time it is expected to be seen, they become extremely solicitous about the cause of its absence, and immediately relate the tradition which they have received from the priests concerning it. To the man who will reflect, and consider that all the improvements of civilized life and all the dis-

coveries of science, have proceeded from an anxious and persevering spirit of investigation, this fact of the New Zealanders contemplating the wonders of the firmament, and endeavouring to account for them by the wild vagaries of their own imagination, cannot fail to be interesting. He will see from this, that man, even in a state of nature, is anxious to ascertain the causes of the mighty works which he surveys around him, and will ascribe to this noble impatience of the human mind, every advance in science, from the days of Pythagoras to the immortal era of Newton.

Pointing out some of the stars, he gave us the names assigned to them by his countrymen. The constellation forming the Belt of Orion, they call the Whacka or the Canoe, and have some tradition relating to it which he did not communicate; the Pleiades they believe to be seven of their countrymen, fixed after their death in that part of the heavens, and that one eye of each of them, which appears in the shape of a star, is the only part that is visible. To the two clusters of stars which form the Magellan Clouds, they give the names of Fire-bou and Arete, and have many superstitious ideas concerning them, but which we could hot discover, as Duaterra himself was not

perfectly informed on this subject. In two months, he said, a cluster of stars would rise, some of which would represent the head and others the stern of a canoe, while close to them would appear another star which they call the Anchor, and which, setting at night and rising with the dawn of the morning, serves to regulate their hours of repose and labour.

The day having passed as agreeably as could be expected, the chiefs in the evening entertained us with a song, the words of which were composed by the daughter of the late Tippahee. The subject of it was the visit of her father to Port Jackson. It was a plaintive and melodious air, and seemed, I thought, not unlike some of our sacred music, in many of its turns; as it forcibly reminded me of the chanting in our cathedrals, it being deep, slow, and extended; but, from the constant repetition of the same words, the ideas they contained must have been few, and could have but little variety of allusion. It was divided into parts, which the chiefs sung separately, and were joined in chorus, at certain intervals, by the other New Zealanders; while they all concluded it together. Singing and dancing appear

favourite amusements with all savage nations, and these people are particularly fond of both. Indeed, I think this propensity is wisely ordained by nature, as a sure preventive of that listlessness and morbidity, which the want of regular employment and habits of active industry, would otherwise inevitably produce. The unpolished child of nature is seldom affected with constitutional melancholy, and his manner of living is by no means calculated to induce it. Though not engaged in any one fixed and regular occupation, to which, among civilized nations, the mind, if employed at all in active pursuits, is particularly devoted; he still never finds the time hang heavily on his hands, nor does he experience, in the least degree whatever, that sort of fashionable sensation, which lounging idlers term ennui. Cheerful and lively in himself, the animal spirits are at all times buoyant; and, whether attending to his desultory employments, or spending his time in doing nothing at all, he is still invariably the same. In either case, he can reflect with rapture on the fantastic mazes of the war-dance, or hear with enthusiastic delight, the song which gives the signal of battle to his tribe, and has frequently led himself to victory. His body.

too, is constantly prepared to act in cooperation with his mind; for his food being light, and his exercises manly, he is always intrepid and vigorous, unless where the climate is too hot, which must of course considerably relax his energies.

Saturday, December 3d. – Light breezes and pleasant weather, in Lat. 35 deg. 31" S. Long. 156 deg. 26" E.

The New Zealanders, as far as we could discover from Duaterra, have some confused ideas of a Supreme Being; but their superstitions are in general most absurd and extravagant. Besides a Supreme Power, of which, as I said, they have some notion, they likewise believe in a great number of inferior gods, to each of whom they have given distinct powers and peculiar functions. One of them they have placed over the elements; another, over the fowls of the air and the fishes of the sea; and there are an infinite number of others, whose duties are so complicated and multifarious, that it would fill a large volume to recount them. In addition to those superstitions which have been suggested to them by their physical necessities, they have many others, which have originated with the affections of the mind:

hence they have been led to deify the various passions of the human heart, and Anger, Grief, Joy, &c are all included in their system of theogony.

Though my ignorance of their language prevented my being able to obtain a detail of all the imaginary beings, which are objects of worship and veneration among these people, still I acquired, through the medium of Duaterra, a knowledge of those which have the strongest influence over their minds, and whose power is held by them in the greatest degree of religious awe.

The first of those is called Mowheerangaranga, the Supreme Deity, with whose dignity and attributes they are totally unacquainted; though, from some internal suggestion, they have placed him at the head of the list, Teepockho, the God of Anger and of Death, is the next grand deity whom they seem most anxious to propitiate; and that persons in their dark state should imagine the existence of such a supernatural being, is not at all surprising, when we consider that anger and death are capable of making the most serious impressions even on the best cultivated minds.

Towackhee, the god who presides over

the elements, comes the next in succession, and is regarded by them, as holding a station of peculiar importance. After this god, follows Mowheemooha, a deity whose power and operations are rather limited. The office they have assigned to him, is, to make land under the sea, which, when completed, he is to fasten with a hook to a large rock, and leaving it there in a state of preparation to be drawn up, his duty ceases; while Mowheebotakee, another god of considerable power, comes to do his part, which is, to haul up the work of his fellow deity, the moment it is executed. Mowheebotakee, besides this office, performs others likewise of very great importance, and is dignified with attributes of a higher order than those which distinguish even the most exalted of the rest, the supreme himself being hardly excepted. The superintendence and management of all human diseases, are peculiarly within his province; and even the most important function of all, the power of giving life, though not of taking it away, (which latter privilege belongs to Teepockho,) is exclusively vested in him. These important beings are succeeded in the catalogue by one of a very melancholy cast, the God of Tears and of Sorrow, whom they

call Heckotoro. They have a curious tradition concerning this god. They tell you, that having, by some untoward casualty, lost his wife, he came down from heaven in the greatest consternation, to look for her, and, after seeking to no purpose in many other places, he was at length fortunate enough to find her in New Zealand, where she was straying about for a considerable time before. Delighted at meeting with her, he immediately put her into a canoe, and having tied a rope to both ends of it, they were at once hauled up to heaven; where, to signalize their re-union, they were changed into a cluster of stars, called Ranghee, which the New Zealanders point out, and affirm to be the identical pair.

To the curious reader, a full account of the mythology of these people would not be uninteresting; but this can only be given, by a long residence in their country, and an intimate acquaintance with their language; so that the Missionaries, I conceive, will be best qualified for such a task, and from them it will probably be expected.

Among the numerous traditions of the New Zealanders, there are two which are very remarkable; one of them, for the extra-

ordinary affinity it has to a fact, which is acknowledged by all who believe in the authenticity of the Gospel; and the other, for its similarity to an absurd legend, which for ages past has prevailed in England. The first of these refers to the creation of man, and has been handed down from father to son, through all generations. They believe the first man to have been created by three gods, Mowheerangaranga, or Toopoonah, or grandfather, Mowheermooha, and Mowheebotakee; but give the greatest share in the business to the first-mentioned of these deities. They likewise believe, which is more curious than all, that the first woman was made of one of the man's ribs; and to add still more to this strange coincidence, their general term for bone is Hevee, which, for aught we know, may be a corruption of the name of our first parent, communicated to them, perhaps, originally, by some means or other, and preserved without being much disfigured, among the records of ignorance. I shall not, however, positively defend this opinion; though I think it extremely probable, that these islands may have been first colonized from some parts of the East, and that the original settlers may have brought with them some knowledge of

the true account of the creation; but which knowledge, their posterity, degenerating into barbarism and darkness, were not able to preserve.

In regard to the fabulous tradition to which I have adverted, they say, as I have been informed by Duaterra, that formerly, before the moon gave any light to man, and when the nights were involved in total darkness, a certain individual of their countrymen, named Rona, went out one night to fetch water from a neighbouring well, and that in endeavouring to grope out his way, he hurt his foot by some accident or other, and became so very lame that he was unable to return home. While in this dilemma, groaning with pain and trembling with fear, he felt, it seems, the moon come suddenly upon him, and seizing hold of a tree, he clung to it with all his might to save himself; but it was all in vain, for the tradition asserts that the tree was torn up by the roots, and carried up, with the man attached to it, to the region of the moon, where it was replanted, and exists there, together with Rona, at this very time. The reader, I dare say, could hardly have supposed before, that the New Zealanders had a story so very like

our Man in the Moon; yet, that they have this tradition, and the other more interesting one likewise, Duaterra is fully prepared to affirm; and I never had the least reason to doubt his veracity. From what I could learn from this chief, his countrymen hold any violation of the power of their gods, as awfully impious; and believe, most firmly, in the idea of their omnipresence. The part of the heavens where they all reside, is called Taghinga Attua, and is represented as beautiful in the extreme; while they assign to it, whatever fanciful delights their wild imagination can possibly conceive.

While on this subject, I shall notice another curious fact which has been also related to me by Duaterra. The New Zealanders make it an invariable practice, when a child is born among them, to take it to the Tohunga, or priest, who sprinkles it on the face with water, from a certain leaf which he holds in his hand for that purpose; and they believe that this ceremony is not only beneficial to the infant, but that the neglect of it would be attended with the most baneful consequences. In the latter case, they consider the child as either doomed to immediate death, or that, if allowed to live, it will grow

up with a most perverse and wicked disposition. Now, that this is a kind of baptismal ceremony, no one I think will dispute; but how it came to be introduced among them, I am wholly at a loss to determine; nor shall I, in this place, venture to hazard any opinion of my own upon it.

CHAPTER III

CHAP. III.

Journal continued – Witticism of Tui – Remarkable expression of Duaterra – Bad weather – The crew all sick again – Voracious appetite of the New Zealanders – The weather changes and becomes fine – Gaiety of the New Zealanders – Specimens of their songs – War exhibition by Korra-korra – Account of his escape from Captain Seddons – Duaterra resumes the dress of his native country – Description of it – Superstitious prediction – We pass the islands called the Three Kings – Description of them – Arrive at the North Cape – The sea boisterous there – Captain Cook's danger – Communication opened with the natives – The chiefs go on shore – Two canoes visit us, bringing a chief who comes on board – His behaviour and dress described – Affection of the New Zealanders – Dirty in their persons – Other canoes arrive – Traffic opened – Cupidity of the sailors – Restraints imposed – -Visited by Tarapedo, a young chief – Account of Jem the Otaheitan – Several other canoes arrive – Duaterra returns – Dissuades Mr. Marsden from going on shore – The ship gets under weigh – The coast described.

Monday, December 5th. – The weather cloudy, with strong gales. Lat. 35 deg. 8" S. Long. 160 deg. 10" E.

Wishing to learn as much as possible of the character and peculiarities of our rude guests, I let no day pass without remarking

whatever I thought worthy of observation; and was careful in attending to every little anecdote or incident which might tend to illustrate their turn of mind. I had frequent opportunities of gratifying this curiosity, and on this day I was amused with a witticism, which is quite characteristic of these people. Tui, whom I shall now introduce to the reader as the brother of Korra-korra, seeing me on deck this morning with my spectacles on, and looking at some birds which were flying about the ship, inquired, with an arch smile, if I could tickee tickee (see) the Brush Farm, my place of residence in New South Wales. As our distance from it at the time could not have been less than four hundred and fifty miles, this was considered an excellent joke by his countrymen, who laughed heartily at it; nor, indeed, did I think it myself a bad specimen of that sly sort of humour, in which they all seem to delight. Sallies too of the gayest mirth and pleasantry frequently break out among them, and I have never met a people who are less inclined to sullen retirement, or more disposed to social hilarity, in fact, they are never reserved, unless when they imagine themselves ill-treated, or conceive that some

design has been formed to do them an injury; and, in these cases, their natural disposition immediately gives way to all the dark broodings of adventitious passions.

On many occasions, their mode of expression is emphatically significant. Duaterra, in telling us that it was impossible for a thief to escape punishment in New Zealand, (for if not detected by man, the all-seeing vigilance of the Deity was sure to discover him,) made use of the following remarkable words, which are not only forcible, but highly poetical. The Etua, (God) says he, rises upon him like a full moon, rushes upon him with the velocity of a falling star, and passes by him like a shot from the cannon's mouth. Such was the exact tenor of the expression he made use of, as nearly as I could collect it from the notion I had of his language; and I was forcibly struck with so extraordinary a description.

Tuesday, December 6th. – Fresh gales and hazy weather. Lat. 35 deg. 16" S. Long. 161" 32" E. Nothing particular occurred.

Wednesday, December 7th. – This has been one of the most disagreeable days I have ever experienced at sea; a continued calm, with incessant rain, and the ship rolling in a

very heavy swell. My fellow-passengers and the crew become all sick again, and the New Zealanders, as on the former occasion, retreated to their sleeping places. Such has been the unfavourable state of the weather, that in four-and-twenty hours we have gained only nine miles. Lat. 35 deg. 19" S. Long. 162 deg. E.

Thursday, December 8th. – The weather clearer, but with intermitting squalls of wind from the South West. Lat. 35 deg. 14" S. Long. 163 deg. 41" E.

The stomachs of the New Zealanders experienced a salutary effect from the seasickness of the preceding day, for while all the other persons on board were still incapable of tasting a morsel, they were greedily devouring every thing they could find. Mr. Marsden, while suffering under a repetition of what he had before experienced, and lying stretched on his back in the long-boat, could not help envying the keenness of their appetite; when they approached the spot where he was, seizing every thing they could lay their hands upon, in the shape of food. However, they did not fail to heighten his disgust at the same time; for, going to a tub which lay in the corner of the boat, and con-

tained all the loathsome garbage of the ship, which the cook had thrown into it, they began to feast themselves with a voracious eagerness, and shewed a liking for the treat, which plainly proved that their palates were not vitiated by their residence at Port Jackson. I have observed them particularly careful in looking out for such of the poultry as happened to die, and the intestines of the different animals that have been killed were never suffered to escape their vigilance; so that the shark, or any other prowler of the marine tribe, was never indebted to us for a single mouthful. But whatever credit this may do to the strength of their stomachs, it does very little to the cleanliness of their habits, and indeed this latter quality is not to be expected from persons of their description. Even in countries that are civilized, we frequently see the lower classes of the inhabitants delighting in dirt and nastiness; and who then can wonder, that the customs of wild barbarians should be offensive in this particular.

Friday, December 9th. – The weather has become clear and pleasant, and brought all our sick people to life again. Lat. 34 deg. 40" S. Long. 166 deg. 5" E.

The New Zealanders evinced during this day, a more than usual degree of their native good humour. They amused themselves with dancing and singing from an early hour in the morning, and seemed to enjoy the change in the weather, as it allowed them to indulge under the open air in their favourite recreations. The genuine simplicity of Nature must ever be admired, and those lighter amusements which she spontaneously suggests, if properly regulated, tend rather to harmonize than corrupt our morals. It is only the abuse of them that is favourable to vice; and while we condemn the licentious song and lascivious waltz of fashionable revelry, we should never be inclined to censure the artless notes of innocent mirth or the lively dance of inoffensive gaiety.

All the songs of the New Zealanders are accompanied with a great deal of action, some of which is extremely graceful and becoming. I shall here subjoin specimens of three of them. The first which I shall notice is most commonly danced and sung at the same time, by three or four alternately; all standing in a line together, and joining in full chorus immediately before the conclusion. While in the chorus, they throw themselves

into a variety of easy attitudes, but none of them have the least appearance of indelicacy that can possibly offend the most fastidious beholder. The subject of this song I could not get explained; however, to give the reader some idea of the music it contains, I have marked the parts where the voice rises and falls occasionally, and must observe that the notes, in my opinion, are both harmonious and agreeable. It runs thus: –

Tatarrah harnackee rah
Thowy sho nang muthu
He-ah-ah coomoo coomoo, hu coomoo
He-ah-ah coomoo coomoo, hu coomoo
He-ah-ah athoma, athoma, athoma
Ah-ah ratapoo, ratapoo, ratapoo
Ah-ah-ro.

The subject of the following song, which I was more fortunate in ascertaining, betrays the emotions of the mind in its natural state, whenever the interest of the individual is particularly concerned. It describes the havoc occasioned by the violence of an east wind – their potatoes are destroyed by it – they plant them again, and being more successful, they express their joy while taking them out of the ground, with the words, Ah kiki! ah kiki! ah kiki! – Eat away! eat away! eat away!

which is the conclusion of the song. This is always sung at their festivals, and also at the time of planting their potatoes, when it is never omitted. It is generally accompanied with dancing, and the attitudes and movements represent the whole process of planting the potatoe, and afterwards of digging it out of the ground. I have marked the different inflections of the voice with all the attention I could possibly bestow on them, and have been also studious to collect the words as accurately as it was in my power,

Maranghi tahow narnackah uteeah mituhu ruhuru
Mytangho ho wy uteeah nartacko thowhy
Nartacko thowy
He-ah-ah, uteeah – uteeah – uteeah,
He-ah-ah carmothu
He-ah-ah carmothu
He-ah-ah tatapi
Tarhah tatapar – tatapar – tatapar,
He-ah-ah tenna tonah
He-ah-ah tenna tonah
He-ah-ah,
Ki-e-ah tenna tonah
He-ah-ah tenna tonah
He-ah-ah kiki, he-ah-ah kiki
Ah-ah kiki, ah kiki, ah kiki!

The third song, which I subjoin, is never accompanied with dancing, and is a low, soft, and plaintive air; it is not without harmony,

and has that similarity to our chanting, which I remarked before, when speaking of the music of these people. The subject is a man carving a canoe, when his enemies approach the shore in a canoe to attack him; endeavouring to conceal himself, he runs in among the bushes, but is pursued, overtaken, and immediately put to death. Many of the expressions in this song possess a remarkable degree of natural tenderness, and a kind of piteous melancholy runs through the whole of it. They sing it in parts alternately, and the effect is not uninteresting to the sympathetic philanthropist.

Nohohannah marharrar hannah hoko hetu
Tetarrah thumu thumu, hotha na whackah
Ho murthar tui; tupu farkar edo, teeah mi
Nah teyawhah carmuthu rah hecahhow
Taradee, artukee to parrah tar nepha
Whyesho attua no, wharho towriver tuwhy
Ta-isha mi hare, emow narwhackah; towhu.
Huah tari karhah tacotangheetanghee
Pheeu athu farkar wharhow; mo to
Iree farkar attah taparreeparree whackee
Why takee eree keeree; tarmarthui ruru po
Whatthu tackah rarunghah kecoranghee
Pukee uhahu reekee kecotanghah my
No rafarrafar taho yonghee tahonghahruru
Totarrah how mattah reekee phi yapoo ha.

It is somewhat remarkable, that almost all

the songs that are sung in New Zealand are composed by some tribes living in one part of the Island, called by Europeans the East Cape, the inhabitants of which seem alone to have engrossed the favour of the muses, and may be exclusively considered as the bards of their country.

Saturday, December 10th. – Fine pleasant weather. Wind S. and S. W. Lat. 34 deg. 36" S. Long. 167 deg. 44" E. The North Cape of New Zealand bearing S. 87 deg. E. distant 260 miles.

Korra-korra, with his imagination still turned to his favourite pursuit, gave us this morning an exhibition of his mode of warfare, and his plan of attacking his enemies. His gesticulations were, on this occasion, more furiously violent than ever I beheld them; he thrust out his tongue as far as it could go, tortured his countenance into all the horrible writhings of savage grimace, stamped on the deck like some raging fiend, and staring round him with the glare of the wildest frenzy in his eyes, he brought to our view the most hideous denizen of the infernal regions. His representation of taking revenge on his enemies was truly frightful to behold. After having pursued them in every

direction, and got them completely in his power, he appeared as inflicting on them cruelties the most dreadful that can be imagined; nor even with their death was his vengeance satisfied; his fury still remained unabated,

"And thrice he slew the slain."

When Captain Seddons, the commander of a merchant vessel, was in the Bay of Islands, he had this chief bound with ropes in his cabin, suspecting him to have stolen an auger that was missing; but Korra-korra became outrageously indignant at such treatment, and despising his fetters, instantly broke them in pieces. His next step was to knock down the Captain, while, jumping out of the cabin window, he swam to his canoe, from whence he darted a spear at the ship, and wounded one of the sailors. Seddons fired at the same instant, but fortunately missed him, at which he was afterwards well pleased, for it appeared, on further inquiry, that his suspicions were ill founded, and that this man had not been guilty of the offence which was imputed to him. Korra-korra related the whole circumstance to us himself, accompanying his narration with many ges-

tures expressive of his mode of escape and being shot at; and in all these he evinced the same furious impetuosity that he displayed in the war exhibition.

Sunday, December 11th. – The weather still clear and pleasant. Lat. 34 deg. 8" S. Long. 168 deg. 42" E.

Mr. Marsden performed divine service on deck, and there was no occurrence during the day of any particular consequence.

Monday, December 12th. – The weather changed and become cloudy with fresh breezes. Lat. 32 deg. 57" S. Long. 169 deg. 11" E.

Nothing worthy of notice happened on this day.

Tuesday, Dec. 13th. – Fine weather returned again. Lat. 33 deg. 39" S. Long. 169 deg. 30" E.

Neither on this nor on the two preceding-days did the chiefs come on deck as usual, but remained shut up below in a state of seclusion; and on being asked the cause, the reason they assigned was their fears of being pillaged by the sailors of the presents they had received. Certainly the conduct of sailors in general in this respect is highly reprehensible, and I doubt not but ours afforded sufficient cause to excite the suspicions of our savage visitors.

Wishing to appear once more in the dress of his native country, Duaterra threw off his European clothes and arrayed himself after the manner of the other New Zealanders. The dress he put on consisted of a large mat made of flax, which descended below his waist, and was fastened round it by a belt of the same material; another, tied round his neck, was thrown negligently over his right shoulder, and hung down, quite loose, like a Spanish cloak; and there being no other garment, these two completed the whole of his artless costume. The nearer he approached the shores of his native Island, the more alarming grew his fears, lest the hostile tribe of Wangeroa, the same that had so cruelly massacred the crew of the Boyd, might have taken occasion of his absence to make war upon his people. In the event of such an occurrence, he announced his intention of collecting all the forces he could muster, and proceeding immediately with a fleet of war canoes to Wangeroa, to destroy all the inhabitants that should come in his way. Superstition added still more to his fears, and served to realize in idea all the evils he apprehended. His friends, he said, were extremely averse to his leaving them, and his

head wife in particular, who at the time of his departure, expected every hour to add another member to his family. Besides, the priest assured him that if he should set out on so inauspicious an expedition, and contrary to the wishes of all his friends, either the death of his favourite wife, or some dire calamity to his tribe, would certainly happen during his absence. Reflecting that he had persisted in departing against these portentous declarations, his mind became more and more agitated as he drew nearer to the scene of them, and an anxious suspense taking possession of all his thoughts, left him no room for tranquillity or confidence.

Wednesday, December 14th. – The weather extremely fine. Lat. 34 deg. 00" S. Long. 170 deg. 27" E. Flocks of gannets and petrels flying round the ship in all directions. Hope to see New Zealand to-morrow.

Nothing happened on this day that I think worth communicating to the reader, nor on the following, though for the sake of regularity I shall insert it.

Thursday, December 15th. – Pleasant weather with fresh breezes. Lat. 34 deg. 31" S. Long. 172 deg. 8" E.

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Three Kings bearing N.E. by N. Distance 2 Leagues
Three Kings bearing E. distance 1/2 Miles
Cape Maria bearing N.W. Distance 2 Leagues
Cape Brett bearing S.E. Distance 2 Leagues
Cape Brett bearing N.W. Distance 1/2 Mile.

Friday, December 16th. – On this day a greater number of the above-mentioned birds surrounded the ship on every side, and they seemed to increase, the closer we approached the place of our destination.

At seven A. M. the three small islands, called the Three Kings, appeared in sight, and at noon we sailed past them. In approaching them, they present to the eye a most picturesque appearance; having in a line with them some chequered rocks of a rude figure, which first attract the attention of the beholder, while his view is next directed to the little islands themselves, which offer scenes of romantic wildness worthy the fanciful pencil of a Claude or a Salvator. They are all uninhabited, and the largest is said to have both pigs and goats running wild upon it. A singular circumstance respecting these little islands, is, that they abound in the centepede, which reptile is entirely unknown in New Zealand, though only fifteen miles distant. In passing these islands, it was curious to see the address of the gannets and other birds in darting on the fish, and taking them off as they rose to the surface of the water: our people were highly amused with this spectacle.

Our voyage was now drawing near its termination, and soon after we cleared the Three Kings, we had the pleasure to find the north-western part of New Zealand opening on our view. This part, named by Tasman Cape Maria Van Dieman, is the most western point of a peninsula, which extends directly north-west seventeen leagues, lying in Lat. 34 deg. 30" S. Long. 173 deg. 42" E.

This end of New Zealand is subject to more violent and frequent changes of the weather than any of the other parts, and it is difficult to suppose how the difference can be so great, considering the comparative equality of temperature that exists in the rest of the island. The sea in the vicinity of this quarter is often so very boisterous, that it is extremely dangerous for any vessel that may happen to be there at the time, and Captain Cook assures us that he found it so himself. This celebrated navigator tells us, that in Lat. 35 deg. off this Cape, and in the midst of summer in these regions, (January 1770,) he encountered a gale of wind, which, for its strength and continuance, exceeded almost any he had ever before experienced. He was three weeks in getting ten leagues to the westward, and five weeks in making fifty.

"During the gale, (says he,) we were happily at a considerable distance from land-otherwise it is highly probable that we should never have returned to relate our adventures."

At an early hour on Saturday, December 17th, we found ourselves lying immediately off the North Cape, and Mr. Marsden being anxious to open a communication with the natives of this part of the island, sent the chiefs with three of their countrymen on shore, to prevail on some of the people to come on board. The chiefs, arrayed in their uniforms, made quite a showy and martial appearance, and being armed with swords, pistols, and muskets, were prepared to resist any hostilities that might be offered to them on their landing. Aware of the necessity of being supplied with implements of various descriptions, Mr. Marsden took care that those should be brought which were most necessary for all the purposes of ordinary convenience, and nothing of this kind was omitted; so that our people might set to work on the first moment after getting on shore. As our live stock had suffered very much from the want of green food, the persons sent on shore took the sickles with

them to cut grass, and Mr. Hall and myself intended to accompany them, but Duaterra told us we had better wait the event of his reception, before we ventured on an enterprise which might perhaps be attended with imminent danger. He said he had strong reasons to distrust the people who inhabited this part of the island, and among others, mentioned an attempt which he understood they had made some short time before, to cut off a boat's crew belonging to the Jefferson, a whaler then fishing upon the coast; therefore he thought it would be very rash for us to hazard our lives among them in the first instance. This friendly caution was a strong earnest of Duaterra's sincerity, and we immediately resolved not to act in opposition to it.

Soon after our party had left us, and as we were getting nearer to the shore, we saw a canoe full of men, proceeding towards us from the same direction, and dashing through the waves with inconceivable expedition. We had hardly time to express our surprise at the rapidity of the movement, when the canoe was alongside the vessel. To guard against any treacherous assault, we had previously loaded all the muskets,

and brought the cutlasses on deck, so that we had every thing ready for offering an effectual resistance.

As soon as the canoe had approached close enough, we threw out a rope to the men that were in it, fourteen in all, which they caught and fastened to the canoe, while six of them ascended the ship's side with an astonishing agility, and came on deck without the least hesitation or dismay. I could not help being much surprised at the confident resolution of these men in putting themselves so completely in our power, and I knew of no cause to which it could be ascribed, except that curiosity might have got the better of their fears, as we cannot suppose that they believed us less capable than other folks of deceit and treachery.

Among those who came on deck was the chief of the tribe, who ordered the eight men that remained in the canoe to go back to the shore immediately and bring off some pigs for the use of the ship. By this act he trusted himself and those who accompanied him, entirely to our good faith, and certainly his confidence was not misplaced. The object of our visit was to introduce practices the very opposite of treacherous

deception, and we should most assuredly be quite unworthy of such an undertaking, were we to commence it by taking any base advantage of those whose welfare we professed to contemplate.

Mr. Marsden explained to this chief, through the medium of a New Zealand sailor who was on board, and who from his knowledge of our language was well qualified to act as interpreter, the nature of the establishment he was about to form in the Bay of Islands. He assured him at the same time, that the missionaries were particularly desirous of being on good terms with the people of the North Cape, and would be always ready to secure their friendship by acts of kindness and attention. He observed to him also, that they would be very glad if he would himself visit them occasionally; and that if he would order his people to supply them with pigs and flax, they should be regularly paid either in axes or tokees. The chief seemed greatly pleased with Mr. Marsden's communication, but complained loudly of the commander of the Jefferson whaler, Captain Barnes, who, it appeared, like too many of his profession, had behaved very ill to him.

Having furnished this captain with a great number of pigs and a large quantity of potatoes, for which he received a musket in return, more pigs and more potatoes were still insisted upon, which being refused, one of the head chiefs was forcibly detained on board, for the purpose of extorting a ransom of fresh supplies from his people. Mr. Marsden made him some presents, and told him, if the commanders or crews of any of our vessels should in future conduct themselves in so disgraceful a manner towards the natives of New Zealand, a representation of the affair should be laid before Governor Macquarie at Port Jackson, on applying to Mr. Kendall, who was to have his constant residence in the Bay of Islands, and would take care that no injury should go unpunished. This assurance was highly gratifying to the chief, as might be seen by the joy displayed in his countenance. Mr. Marsden then shewed him Governor Macquarie's order prohibiting all future aggressions, and the pleasure which this afforded him was increased, by the certainty that some of our countrymen were going to reside upon the island. These people, however they might dislike Europeans as occasional

visitors, were nevertheless gratified with the idea of white men settling among them, and becoming permanent inhabitants of their country.

A piece of India print which Mr. Marsden presented to this chief, was received by him with admiration and delight; he gazed on the different figures represented on it with a wild amazement, his eyes sparkling with joy; while throwing it over his shoulders, he strutted about the deck, and seemed to think of nothing else but this novel decoration. Neither he nor those by whom he was attended had any other clothes on than a small mat made of the flax, which covered their backs, and had, adhering to it, long pieces of rush-work resembling thatch, which hung down on the outside; and the mat serving them for a close garment, was bound round their middle with a belt of a peculiarly strong texture.

Every thing on board afforded matter of astonishment and curiosity to these rude sons of nature. The cows and horses, animals they had never seen before, excited their surprise in a wonderful degree; and one of them seeing a cow with her head stooping down, inquired with much earnestness in

what part the mouth was. No less were they astonished with the operation of shaving, for while Mr. Marsden was going through this necessary process upon deck, they stared at him with riveted attention; and one of them continued the whole time with his mouth wide open gaping at him, nor did he close it until the razor had completely executed its office. On seeing the reflection of their faces in the looking-glass, which for our amusement we placed before them, they started back in a transport of delight, and betrayed their astonishment with many ludicrous emotions.

They all appeared extremely anxious to conciliate our friendship, by voluntary testimonies of attachment towards us. These were frequently so marked and affecting, that callous indeed must be the soul that could not be moved by them. They would come up to us with all the kindliest feelings of the heart beaming in their countenances, and clasping their arms round our waists, tell us repeatedly we were miti, which means good, seeming at the same time particularly desirous that we should be convinced of their affection. My heart was deeply affected with the scene – the thought of their being canni-

bals immediately vanished from my recollection, and I viewed them only as the children of genuine sensibility. Never was my mind so prepared as at this moment to believe the opinion of the wayward philosopher of Geneva, 3 that the best and kindest affections of the human heart are found only in the man who has neither been born amidst the luxuries, nor educated in the refinements of civilized society. Such a man being as "fresh from Nature's hand" at the age of forty as at the hour of his birth, has all Nature's passions still about him; and if the bad are not corrected by precept, the good are not vitiated by corrupt example. But here let me observe, that though the savage does possess all the passions of Nature, pure and unadulterated, and though he may in many instances feel stronger and more acutely than the man of civilized habits; still is he inferior to him in every other respect: the former is a slave to the impulse of his will, the latter has learned to restrain his desires; the former stands enveloped in the dark clouds of ignorance, the latter goes forth in the bright sunshine of knowledge; the former views the works of his Creator through the medium of

a blind superstition, the latter through the light of reason and of truth; the one beholds Nature and is bewildered, the other clearly

"Looks through Nature up to Nature's God."

But however I might admire the feelings which suggested to our new visitors their warm demonstrations of attachment, I could not help wishing myself at the same time a less-favoured object of them; as these people were so very dirty in their persons that any contact with them was truly disgusting. I do believe they had never been washed from the hour of their birth up to the moment we beheld them; and that species of loathsome vermin to which uncleanly Europeans have so long been familiarized, were crawling all over them in myriads. These vermin, which are too well known among us to require their name being repeated, are in their language called cootoos, and the inhabitants in general are equally full of them, the chief himself not being in the least degree freer from them than the vulgar tribe.

The sight of my spectacles appeared to divert them exceedingly, and they were much puzzled to know for what use they could be

intended. On my telling them that I could tickee tickee nue nue (see very far) with them, they immediately wished to make the experiment themselves, and were extremely anxious to put them on; but with this curiosity I did not think it prudent to comply, as I knew that the indulgence would only make them troublesome and importunate. However they shewed no sullenness at the refusal, though I was obliged to declare it in positive terms.

While waiting the return of the persons whom the chief had sent on shore, two canoes loaded with various kinds of fish came out to supply the ship, and a single tenpenny nail was sufficient to purchase a fish of ten or twelve pounds weight. They brought with them some fish, which Europeans call snappers, and these weighed generally from twelve to twenty pounds each, being of a pleasant flavour, and very nutritious. In the cargo was also a very fine fish resembling the salmon trout, besides many others equally excellent; so that we had an abundant supply, I may say, for nothing, the trifles we gave in return being of little or no value.

These canoes had scarcely left us, when

we were visited by two others of a different description, the war canoes, which brought with them a variety of articles for the purpose of traffic. They were built on a larger scale than any I had yet seen, one of them containing twenty-four men, and the other thirty-three. A brisk trade now commenced, and the exchange of commodities on both sides proceeded very rapidly. The men in the canoes were the first to open the market, and exhibited among a great number of other things, mats, spears, hooks, fishing-lines, thread, pattoo pattoos, (war implements,) for all which they received many useful articles in return. They seemed very anxious to deal, and shewed their judgment by giving a preference to such of our commodities as they conceived would be most necessary and serviceable to them. Therefore their choice generally ran upon plane irons, hatchets, tokees, or small hatchets, and hoop iron; for these they readily exchanged their mats, spears, and pattoo pattoos, articles which they set the highest value upon: but for smaller things, such as nails, &c. they would only give lines, thread, and petty ornaments.

The lawless cupidity of our sailors was so much excited by this trade, that we were

obliged to confine it under particular restrictions to the after-part of the ship. Every idea of honesty was entirely abandoned by them; they plundered wherever they could find any thing to barter, and when nothing else was left, they even went so far as to tear the hoops off the barrels, and were bargaining about them with the natives, when we interfered to prevent the agreement. No more than three of these people were allowed to come on board, and the traffic with the others was carried on over the sides of the vessel. The latter were extremely impatient of their exclusion, and seemed to look with jealousy on the privilege granted to their countrymen. The strange indications they gave of their various necessities, were often very amusing, and excited a good deal of mirth among all of us. Standing up in their canoes, and displaying before us the different articles I have mentioned, with many others, they made signs for whatever they wanted, according to the use in which the article was employed. Thus one of them stood up, and vociferating as loud as he could, Matou matou, the name of what he wanted, thrust his fore-finger into his mouth, and dragged it in such a manner as to resemble a hook stuck

in the gills of a fish, the very idea he wished to give us, as an instrument of this kind was what he desired to obtain, which Mr. Hall was the first to discover. Many instances occurred in which these indications, though extremely ludicrous, were nevertheless peculiarly significant.

Among the persons admitted on board was a very fine young man, the son of a deceased chief, who possessed the principal authority in that part of the island near which we were lying. Duaterra immediately recognized him, and the moment he came on board behaved to him with particular respect, touching noses with him, the usual mode of salutation in this part of the world, when any honour is to be paid, and which he did not do with the other chief. The latter he contemptuously described as an ittee ittee rungateeda, or a chief possessing very little power. Thus even among savages have the gradations of rank their distinctive formalities, while habit gives to each its peculiar etiquette. To this young chief, whose name was Tarapeedo, Mr. Marsden gave one of the Governor's proclamations, and explained to him the nature of the intended establishment, as also the benefits that would result from it to his

people. The information appeared to give him much pleasure, and he seemed desirous of cultivating a friendly intercourse with us. He brought us a hog as a present, and Mr. Marsden complimented him in return with an axe, which he received with testimonies of very great satisfaction. The rank which this young man held could be seen rather by the formalities to which I have alluded, and the respectful behaviour of his people towards him, than by any distinguishing mark in his dress, as he was attired exactly in the same manner as the others, and took an equal share with them in the labours of the paddle. He seemed of a cheerful obliging disposition, and enjoyed exceedingly every thing he saw on board.

Tarapeedo was accompanied by his brother Tishopango, an athletic well-made man, and by an Otaheitan, called by our people Jem.

The history of this man is worthy of notice, as it shews the strong influence of early prepossessions over the human mind. At the age of eleven, or twelve he was brought from his own country to Port Jackson, and taken into the family of a Mr. M'Arthur, where he was treated with the greatest kindness and

indulgence, and supplied with every thing he could possibly want. His kind protector also took care that his mind as well as his body should be attended to, and sent him to school at his own expense. Jem was not a boy to do any discredit to his instructors; he very soon learned not only to speak our language with fluency, but to read and write it in such a manner as to shew he possessed a strong natural genius. Tractable and obedient, his behaviour at school was always commended, and the improvement he made was no less rapid than useful. However, as he had no relish for the regular labours of civilized life, the situation of servant, which he was obliged to fill, was quite irksome to him, and he resolved as soon as possible to free himself from the restraints it imposed. He constantly sighed for the easy and desultory employments in which from his infancy he saw his countrymen engaged, and longed for the moment when he could himself participate in their idleness and liberty. This opportunity soon offered, and quitting the house of his kind friend and master, he entered as a sailor on board one of our vessels, with the intention of again revisiting his native

country. How he got to New Zealand, or what induced him to settle there, I was never able to discover; but I should suppose a mind like his must have had a considerable struggle before he resolved on fixing himself among a people, who, in all their attainments, were inferior to his own.

He was, at the time I saw him, settled at the North Cape, where he had married the daughter of a deceased chief, to whose power and territory he happened to succeed.

Jem was a striking instance of the superiority of the civilized over the savage state, and formed a direct contrast to the rest of his companions. He was cleanly in his person, pleasing and even polite in his manners, and his behaviour and appearance in general shewed us very plainly how much he had profited by his acquaintance with European habits. He appeared about three and twenty, and was somewhat above the middle size, but very stout and well proportioned. His features were regular and expressive of great good humour, and his complexion was not darker than that of the southern Europeans; nor was his countenance disfigured with the frightful tattooing. His hair, which had been very carefully combed,

was tied up in a knot upon the crown of his head, and adorned with a long white feather fancifully stuck in it; in his ears were large bunches of the down of the gannet, white as the driven snow, and flapping about his cheeks with every gale. Like the natives, he wore the mat thrown over his shoulders, but the one he had on was bordered with a deep Vandyke of different colours, and gaily bedizened with the feathers of parrots and other birds, reflecting at the same moment all the various shades in the rainbow. He carried a musket in his hand, and had a martial and imposing air about him, which was quite in character with the station he maintained.

Though not in the practice of speaking our language since he left Port Jackson, he had not forgotten the knowledge he had acquired of it, and he gave us a clear and faithful detail of the dispute between the people of the North Cape and the whalers. After stating to us the particulars of the agreement, and adverting to the disgraceful conduct of Barnes, in extorting from the natives more than they had a right to give; he said the people were so enraged at his perfidy and the indignities offered to their

chief, that, having paid the unjust ransom, they fired on the boat's crew who had been sent with him on shore, just as they were putting off to return to the ship. The fire, he told us, was returned, but fortunately without effect, and there was no injury done on either side.

To this man also Mr. Marsden gave one of the proclamations, and being pleased with the nature of it, he promised to lend his zealous endeavours to further the object we had in view; and said he would soon visit the missionaries at the Bay of Islands.

In the course of the day we had not less, I should suppose, than a dozen canoes alongside the vessel, all filled with men of a remarkably fine appearance. Though I had often seen New Zealanders before I approached their coast, I never thought it likely they could be so fine a race of people as I now found them. In their persons they generally rose above the middle stature, some were even six feet and upwards, and all their limbs were remarkable for perfect symmetry and great muscular strength. Their countenances, with few exceptions, were pleasing and intelligent, and had none of those indications of ferocity which the

imagination naturally attributes to cannibals. They displayed, on the contrary, strong tokens of good-nature and tender feeling, and I thought I could trace in many of them, some of the finest evidences of human sympathy. Though too often ill-treated by Europeans, they shewed not the least distrust of coming among us, and I could wish to ascribe it to any other cause than the mere impulse of curiosity.

We waited impatiently for the return of Duaterra, and when he came back he told us he had met with a most favourable reception, though on his landing he was apprehensive of an attack. He said, that as he approached the shore he was surrounded by several canoes, but would suffer none of them to come close to him, telling the men who were in them, that if they did not keep off, he would instantly fire on them; this made them stand at bay, and no hostile opposition was attempted. On reaching the shore, he left the boat to the care of the crew, and taking his fire-arms with him, went, accompanied by Shunghi and Korra-korra, to cut grass, as had been directed. Here he was met by numbers of his countrymen, who received him in a very friendly and affec-

tionate manner. They communicated to him the agreeable intelligence that all wars had ceased during his absence, and that the different tribes were then living in peace and harmony with each other. The chiefs, while on shore, made the most of their time, and collected a quantity of green food of every description. They brought with them plantain grass, wild parsley, turnips which had run to seed, and some plants resembling water-cresses, which I dare say had the same antiscorbutic properties, besides a species of the ray grass.

We had been standing off the Cape the whole day, and Mr. Marsden was strongly tempted to go and spend the night on shore, in order to strengthen the friendly dispositions of the natives, by giving them such a proof of confidence in their hospitality. From this resolution, however, he was dissuaded by Duaterra, who told him, that though his countrymen might act with much seeming kindness while he remained on board, they might probably, if he trusted himself entirely to their good faith, betray its obligations, and taking advantage of his defenceless situation, devote him to a cruel death. At the same time he observed,

that he could not state his positive belief that this would actually happen, not being as yet sufficiently informed as to the dispositions of the people in these parts towards us; but from what he supposed, he thought them hostile to Europeans in general, and therefore was firmly persuaded that we ought to know more about them before we committed our lives to their fidelity. This reasoning was too cogent to be despised, and putting the ship under weigh, we proceeded on our course.

The coast at the North Cape presents to the eye of the passing observer, a bold and romantic appearance. A narrow neck of land running out to some distance forms a promontory, which is the eastern side of a small bay, while the prospect to the westward lies completely open, and discloses to the view a continued expanse of fertile grounds, swelling on the sight in beautiful irregularity, and covered, even to the water's edge, with perpetual verdure. Between the north-east extremity of the island and Cape Maria Van Dieman are two other promontories, forming themselves into two extensive bays, by the opposition of their respective sides.

3 Rousseau.

CHAPTER IV

CHAP. IV.

Departure from the North Cape – Arrive at Doubtless Bay – Duaterra's account of it – Dissuaded from landing there – Proceed on our course – Arrive at the harbour of Wangeroa – Description of the coast – Reach the Cavalles – Land upon one of the islands – Arrive at a village – Description of the huts – An excursion into the interior of the island – Natural productions – Beautiful prospect – Affecting interview of Korra-korra with his relations – Arrival of a young chief – Return to the ship – Death of a New Zealander – Shunghi visits his territory – We anchor between the Cavalles and the main land – Meeting between Duaterra and the chief of the tribe of Wangeroa – Reconciliation between them – We go on shore – Arrive at an encampment of warriors.

Having taken leave of our new visitors, who left us with evident symptoms of regret, and impressed with very favourable opinions of our intentions towards them, we stood out to sea, and directed our course to the Bay of Islands, from which we were not now many leagues distant.

I should have mentioned, that in one of the canoes that had visited us, was a woman who remained during the whole time lying prostrate on her face, nor did she once raise her head to look at a single individual, a circumstance which to me was quite un-

accountable, as the women in this part of the world never hide their faces from sentiments of bashfulness or timidity. She might probably have been in trouble in consequence of the death of a relation, or some other cause, and expressed her sorrow in this manner; but whatever was the reason, I am fully convinced it was not modest reserve.

I was much pleased with an instance of grateful recollection on the part of Shunghi, to whom, while at Port Jackson, I made some occasional presents. Having brought off with him from the North Cape a handsome war-mat, he presented it to me the moment he got on board, and in so friendly a manner, that I was forcibly struck with the goodness of his heart, while I accepted with pleasure this testimony of his gratitude.

On Sunday December 18th, about seven o'clock in the morning, we entered Doubtless Bay, which lies about ten leagues to the south of the North Cape. The whole range of coast exhibits here an unconnected extent of picturesque scenery, which is truly admirable; and bears, in the opinion of Captain Hanson, who had an opportunity of seeing both places, a striking resemblance to

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Chart of New Zealand

some of those stupendous views on the coast of Norway, which excite such powerful sensations in the mind of the contemplative traveller. Bays, harbours, and promontories come upon the eye in abrupt succession, while these bolder scenes of nature are pleasingly harmonized, by green hills that appear retiring from the view, and valleys winding off in the most romantic incurvities. The shelter for shipping is here very unsafe. In the bay that we entered was an island, named by the natives Norfolk Island, from the circumstance of Governor King having landed two New Zealanders on the adjoining main, who had been sojourning with him at the island properly so called. In the Appendix subjoined to the second volume, will be found an interesting document of the late Governor King, which, as it refers to this transaction, and throws some light on the character of these people, and the early intercourse that subsisted between them and the settlers of New South Wales, will be well worth the perusal of the reader.

I should here be guilty of a culpable omission, were I not to notice the generous endeavours of Governor King to improve the condition of these islanders. There

never was a man, perhaps, with the exception of Mr. Marsden, who took a more lively interest in all their necessities, than this estimable character. A kind of veneration for the bay where he once had been himself, induced us to enter it, and Mr. Marsden could hardly suppress his emotions at the remembrance of a dear friend, whose society and friendship he had so long enjoyed.

Duaterra informed us that two large rivers discharged themselves into the head of the bay, which had their source at a considerable distance in the interior. He pointed to a hill about six leagues from the shore, and told us, that at the foot of it ran a stream of fresh water which came a great way off from a remote part of the island, and was navigable to a certain distance for small vessels. The banks of this stream he represented as beautifully diversified with natural embellishments. They were lined, he said, on both sides with trees of different species, and forests of pine were growing in the rear of them, while the stream dividing itself into two branches about twenty miles from the shore, formed the two rivers that discharged themselves into the bay. According to his account, the natives were

regularly in the habit of coming down these rivers in the summer season, to fish upon the coast, and lay in their winter's stock of provisions. The country in the interior, he said, abounded with every thing, as the land was both fertile and excellent.

It was the intention of Mr. Marsden and myself to have landed here, and having taken Duaterra with us, to have gone overland to a place called Tippoonah, a distance of about fifty miles; but from this we were dissuaded by the suggestions of the Captain. He dreaded that the vessel might possibly be detained by contrary winds from getting round to the Bay of Islands, at the time he expected, and told us we should consequently suffer many privations, and be exposed perhaps in our excursion to some degree of risk, which he thought it better for us not to run, and particularly as this tour must retard our ulterior progress. We took his advice, and leaving this interesting part of the coast, the ship once more stood out to sea. As we were proceeding, however, the wind suddenly failed, and we were becalmed at a short distance from the bay; where, to our great mortification, we were obliged to remain till the following morning,

Monday, December 19th, when a breeze springing up, we were enabled to advance.

About six o'clock we found ourselves directly in front of the harbour of Wangeroa, the scene of the fatal tragedy of the Boyd. This harbour, though small, is said to be very good; the entrance is narrow, but the interior is completely land-locked, so that vessels may ride there in perfect safety. The pencil of the artist would here find a matchless scope for the exercise of its powers; and a pen more capable than mine of doing justice to the sublime scenes which nature presents in this quarter, would not be ill-employed in pourtraying them. A Barry or a Radcliffe may inspire delight by the peculiar force of their respective delineations; but for me, I can only attempt those rude and desultory sketches, which, though ill-according with the original, may still give some faint idea of those nobler objects which every traveller is expected to notice. The coast in this part possesses more inviting attractions than I have any where else witnessed. Two ranges of high mountains running in a parallel direction with it, as far as the eye can reach, form a most interesting contrast with the numberless small hills which rise below them,

and are always clothed with the freshest verdure; while a variety of little islands, detached from each other but mingling with the scene, guard, as it were, the openings of the different harbours, and seem to rest beneath the wild projections of the coast in peaceful security. I could dwell with pleasure on the countless beauties of this place, but the subject demands more time, and much greater abilities than I can bestow upon it.

Though I have observed with pleasure that ingratitude forms no part in the character of the New Zealanders, still I have frequently remarked among them, a discontented selfishness which appeared closely allied to that odious quality. Man, even though he may be perfect in the aggregate, what can never be expected, is still but too prone to unprincipled derelictions in his individual capacity; and if he is found so in civilized nations, where moral culture should have improved his heart, who can wonder at his errors, where religion or science never yet pointed out to him the path of rectitude?

I have been led into these remarks by the murmurs which Korra-korra and his brother Tui were making for the last few days, at the

inadequacy of the presents which the latter had received, to compensate his services on board; as he assisted in working the ship. He besides complained, that neither Mr. Marsden, Mr. Hall, nor Mr. Kendall, had given him any thing; on which Mr. Hall remonstrated, and said, the trowsers he then wore had been presented to him by Mr. Marsden. But this made him appear quite indignant, and he cried out in scornful disgust, "No good, made of New Zealand flax, I want tokee." The other replied, he should have what he wanted on getting to the Bay of Islands, when several presents would be made; but he was not at all satisfied with this promise, as he said, they would be all given away before the ship arrived there; and urging again the services of his brother, shewed an extraordinary degree of impatient distrust.

Mr. Marsden, however, soon put both him and his brother into good humour again; for he distributed several presents among such of the New Zealanders as assisted in working the ship, and the chiefs, in addition to tokees and hoes which the others received, obtained also spades, axes, and pieces of red India print. In the distribution of these

presents, he was particularly circumspect, and not the least jealousy was excited.

At ten A. M. we stood in for the small islands called the Cavalles, and anchored close to the largest of them in seven fathoms water. On this little spot, to which the natives give the name of Pannak, Mr. Marsden and myself, together with Mr. Kendall and the New Zealanders, immediately landed. It lies about five miles from the main land, and is extremely steep, rising almost perpendicularly from the water. After passing the stony beach on which we landed, we ascended the hill, and at the foot of it observed a small enclosure neatly fenced in with sticks and reeds; it appeared well cultivated, as the earth had been recently dug over, and was probably planted with potatoes. We encountered much difficulty before we could reach the summit of the hill, as, the ground being composed of a stiff heavy clay, and the path very slippery, it required no small degree of caution and patience to manage the ascent. Our New Zealand companions, finding their shoes a considerable impediment to their progress, instantly threw them off, and skipping up like so many goats, left us below to wonder at their agility, and follow them with

a slower pace. At length, having accomplished this troublesome task, we gained the top of the hill, where we came to a little village consisting of fourteen huts. Our curiosity was at once excited to see the inmates, but none were to be found, as they had all fled to an adjacent wood, and left the huts quite deserted on our approach. The poor creatures were struck with terror at the idea that we were come to kill them, and forsook their miserable dwellings through the impulse of this groundless alarm.

The huts were constructed on a very simple plan, and had evidently a greater regard to room than to convenience; indeed nothing of the latter description was at all to be seen. They all appeared much of the same dimensions, and were generally about fourteen feet in length, and eight in breadth, but the height was never more than four. The buildings were composed of sticks and reeds interwoven with each other, but so very imperfectly, and with such little care to guard against the changes of the weather, that the appearance was extremely wretched. Windows were never thought of, and the hole which was intended for a door was so very low and narrow, that it required them to

crawl on their hands and knees in order to squeeze themselves in and out through it.

Yet these miserable structures derived at the same time a peculiar degree of interest from the surrounding scenery; and a neat well-cultivated little garden attached to each of them, formed a kind of contrast to the hut itself, which was singularly picturesque. These gardens were planted with turnips, coomeras, or the sweet potatoe, and the common potatoe.

Within a short distance of the huts we happened to find one old man, who was the only person of all the inhabitants that our presence had not intimidated. He was sitting on the ground with Korra-korra, and betrayed not the least indications of fear as we approached him. Saluting him in the usual respectful manner, by applying our noses to his, he received us with much apparent kindness, and we made him a present of a few nails, which he seemed very happy to get. Mr. Kendall being quite fatigued from the exertion required in climbing up the hill, was not able to accompany Mr. Marsden and myself in an excursion into the interior of the island; so we were obliged to leave him

behind, while we both set out together, attended by Korra-korra.

As we proceeded, we had frequently occasion to observe the great variety of vegetable productions which this island contained. But the plant which grew in greatest profusion, and met our eye in every direction, was the flax-plant, which flourished equally in the most exposed, as in the best sheltered situations. This plant, which is indigenous, the natives convert to a variety of purposes. It supplies them with excellent materials for clothing, cordage, and fishing-nets, and the preparation being simple, requires very little trouble. The plant itself generally grows from five to seven feet high, and bears a strong resemblance to our common flag, but the stem is much thicker, and the flowers less expanded and of a red colour: the leaves both in shape and size are exactly the same, no sort of difference being perceptible. The scientific botanist would here find an ample range for his excursive genius; but for myself, I freely confess my incapacity to explore and classify the various stores of the vegetable kingdom. We met with several shrubs with which we were totally unacquainted, and many that we discovered to be of the

myrtle genus; besides one which, from the pithiness of its wood, and the conformation of its leaves, resembled very much the elder-tree. This bore a fruit hanging down in thick clusters of small berries, the juice of which afforded a delicious treat to the natives, who appeared to relish it exceedingly. They express it through their fingers, and I should suppose that the wine that might be made from it, would not be at all inferior to that which the elder-berry yields in our own country. We recognized several species of grass which are well known in Europe, and some that we observed in New South Wales.

The island, which we had now an opportunity of seeing in every part, consisted of three hills, and the highest commanded such a magnificent prospect, as I never in the whole course of my life beheld. Before us lay the main land of New Zealand, which stretching away to the right, presented a straight line of coast to a considerable extent, exhibiting a variety of beautiful bays and harbours, and surmounted in the back-ground with a range of hills, which displayed enclosures covered with the finest verdure, and forests glittering with variegated foliage.

These hills rose with a gradual and gentle acclivity, which rendered them perfectly convenient for all the purposes of cultivation, and on their sides were many proofs of the industry of the natives. Beyond these, and running in a line with them, rose a picturesque range of mountains, whose tops appeared to come in contact with the clouds, while down their disruptured sides, torrents of water precipitated themselves with impatient rapidity. On the left hand also, the prospect was continued by a range of mountains, which followed the direction of the coast as far as Cape Brett, where the view was terminated; and where the southern entrance to the Bay of Islands opened itself amidst scenes, of which it were vain for me to attempt a portraiture. How should I venture to describe the countless interesting combinations which were here grouped together, or interspersed at irregular distances, to give a more powerful effect to their varied beauties! The swelling rocks which seemed to frown on the convulsions of the elements; the scattered islands; the broad expanse of ocean; the sublime diversities of the country itself; the singular prospect of an Indian village, and of

the natives paddling to the ship in their canoes; formed altogether such an extraordinary assemblage of views, as it would be impossible for the most vivid imagination to conceive, or the most animated pencil to depict.

Probably I have not consulted the good taste of my reader, in dwelling so long on these scenes; but it is difficult for the votary of unaffected Nature to withhold his admiration, when she presents herself in all the simplicity of innocence, and all the imposing grandeur of dignified sublimity. From me, the tribute she receives is small; though at the same time, I could not forbear paying it.

But to return to my narrative. Korra-korra, who had gone on some distance before us, was on our coming up standing on the top of the hill in conversation with a native, who had his spear in his hand, and was perfectly naked. As we approached him, he shewed no symptoms of consternation or alarm, but remained quite composed on the same spot, and returned our salutation of touching noses and shaking hands with seeming good humour. He held no rank among his countrymen, but was one of the

common men, or what they themselves call cookee, and appeared to be about forty, with a pleasing though grave countenance. While in conversation with this man, we discerned at a distance some women and children, to whom he cried out as loud as he could vociferate, to come up to us; but they hesitated to accept this invitation, and in all probability would have ultimately declined it, as they dreaded to approach us, had not Tui ran forward to assure them of safety. He and his companions had been left to cut grass, and their task being performed, they had now joined us. Tui having succeeded in removing their fears, they no longer hesitated to come up to us, and the group consisted of three young women and some children, headed by an old woman who appeared bent down to the ground with age and infirmity. They approached in slow and regular procession one after the other, with their faces inclined towards the ground, and each with an air of melancholy sadness. As they ascended the hill, and when they had nearly gained its summit, the old woman began repeating in a low and plaintive voice a number of words, which Tui informed us were prayers or invocations to a certain deity. Her ap-

pearance was singularly grotesque, and might remind one in some degree of that prescient being 4 who demanded from Tarquin so extraordinary a price for her portentous volumes. Her head was encircled with a wreath of green leaves, which though an unseemly decoration for one of her years, would have been appropriate and becoming on any of her companions; she had twisted a green bough round her waist, and supporting herself upon a rod, which fancy might take for the wand of a sorceress, she moved on with solemn dejection, in a slow and measured pace.

When she had reached the top of the hill, she stopt for a few moments, still repeating her prayers and keeping her eyes fixed upon the ground. Mr. Marsden immediately went to her, and taking her by the hand, was anxious to inspire her with confidence by this mark of friendship; but she appeared not to take the least notice of him, and her attention was entirely fixed upon another object. This object was Korra-korra, whose aunt she happened to be, and having now recognized him, a most affecting scene took place. The chief, falling upon her neck and applying

his nose to her's, continued in this posture for some minutes, each talking in a low and mournful voice; then disengaging from, each other, they gave vent to their feelings by weeping bitterly, and indulged those overpowering sensations, which in such minds are always produced by excess of joy. It was impossible to remain an unconcerned spectator; and though I mean not to proclaim to the world my own sensibility, I must say, at the same time, that I could not withhold the tear of feeling at this interview. Mr. Marsden also, I believe, yielded to the softness of human nature; and indeed it were no praise to the heart, that could on this occasion repel the gentle emotions of tender sympathy. The brave and hardy chief remained for about a quarter of an hour leaning upon his musket, with the big drops rolling down his manly cheeks, when one of the young women, a daughter of his aunt, approached him; and a similar scene immediately ensued between them. Though I knew him to be a man of extraordinary sensibility, I never thought it possible that his feelings were so acute as I now beheld them: he no longer appeared the same being, the vehemence of his soul was completely lost; and while he hung with en-

dearing tenderness on the neck of his relation, his countenance displayed all the fine sympathies of unadulterated nature. As for the woman, she was so affected that the mat she wore was literally soaked through with her tears. Tui, who prided himself on being able to imitate our manners, and was anxious to copy our behaviour in every particular, told me that he would not cry, he would behave like an Englishman, and began to enter into conversation with me, evidently forcing his spirits the whole time. However, his fortitude was very soon subdued, for being joined by a young chief about his own age, and one of his best friends, he flew to his arms, and bursting into tears, indulged exactly the same emotions as the others.

Perhaps there is no part of the world where joy is more affectingly evinced than among these people; yet when they had gratified their feelings, they all resumed their usual cheerfulness, and the ladies very soon became particularly mirthful. They shewed none of that coy reserve which we at first imagined was the cause of their hesitating to approach us, but on the contrary, displayed an openness of behaviour, which at the same time never bordered on impropriety.

Tui's friend, the young chief who had joined us, was a fine handsome fellow of an open and ingenuous countenance, and not tattooed. He was attended by seven or eight of his people, and had come over from the Main, where he resided and had some territory. He evinced a particular partiality for me, attaching himself to me entirely, and talking a great deal, but unfortunately I could comprehend but a very few words of what he said, not being sufficiently conversant with his language.

On returning to the village where we had left Mr. Kendall, we had the pleasure to find all the inhabitants come back to their huts, having in our absence assured themselves that our intentions were not hostile to them. They all now appeared cheerful and happy, and Mr. Kendall was surrounded by a group of women and children, who seemed much pleased with their strange visitor. Happy at the idea that these poor people had regained their confidence, and considered us rather as friends than enemies, we now left their village to return to the ship. On descending the hill, I was frequently indebted to the young chief for his obliging assiduities; wherever there was the least difficulty, he was

sure to lend me his prompt assistance, and never could the most polite beau be more attentive to a lady, than he was to me on this occasion. When we got to the shore, he was anxious to amuse me with his war evolutions, and brandishing his spear about him at a furious rate, went through a variety of manoeuvres, all of which were manly and intrepid. As he expressed a particular wish to go on board, we were resolved not to thwart his inclination, while allowing him to accompany us, he appeared quite delighted at the indulgence. The natives came down to the beach to assist our people in getting the boat into the water, and behaved throughout in so cheerful and friendly a manner, that at our departure we were impressed with very favourable sentiments of the goodness of their dispositions.

On getting to the ship, we found that in our absence two canoes had been along-side, and carried on a very fair and equitable traffic with those on board; one of them had brought a chief who had the command of a district on the Main, and who remained on board after the departure of his countrymen. He met us with a countenance full of good humour, and we made him a

few presents, which he received with evident satisfaction.

I regret to state, that on this day one of the New Zealanders who had been to Port Jackson, an obliging friendly poor fellow, fell a victim to the dysentery. This disease, the one that is most prevalent in the colony of New South Wales, and makes the greatest havoc, carried him off in spite of every thing that could be done, after lingering under it during almost the whole of the voyage. He was attacked immediately after we left Port Jackson, and the complaint became so obstinate that it would yield to no remedy, though nothing that could possibly mitigate or remove it was left untried. Having expired during our absence from the ship, Duaterra got the body upon deck, and pressing the knees close to the head, he tied it up in the kackahow, or outside mat of the deceased; then taking it on shore, he dug a hole in the sand and buried it. This poor man had been taken by Mr. Marsden some time before out of the Cumberland, a colonial vessel, then lying in the Bay of Islands, on her return from a voyage to the Tonga Islands.

While we lay off the Cavalles, Shunghi,

who described the land on the opposite main as belonging to himself and his brother Kangeroa, went to pay it a visit, and after remaining some time on shore, returned in a canoe, which we took on board for him.

The wind being contrary to our getting round to the Bay of Islands, we were obliged to put in between the Cavalles and the main land, where, having found the soundings very regular, we anchored on Tuesday, December 20th, in seven fathoms water on a fine sandy clay.

We were informed by Duaterra, who had been on shore, that the chiefs George and Tippouie, with about a hundred of the warriors of Wangeroa, were encamped at a short distance from a village which presented itself on the opposite main; where they had been collected for the purpose of attending the funeral of a deceased chief. On seeing George walking about by himself, he said, he advanced towards the spot where he was, to speak to him; but the other distrusting his intentions, ran away with all the speed he could possibly make: Duaterra, however, pursued him closely, and coming up with him at length, drew a pistol from his belt,

and told him if he attempted to stir he would shoot him that very instant. He then informed him that it was his wish that a reconciliation should take place between them, and that all existing hostilities should cease, while they should pledge themselves to live for the future in peace and amity with each other. To convince George that he was sincere in this declaration, he made him acquainted, he told us, with the nature of the establishment which we were about to form, and with the many good things which Mr. Marsden had in view for the New Zealanders. He moreover invited him to come on board, telling him, Mr. Marsden would be very glad to see him, and would inform him of further particulars. On receiving these assurances, and not doubting their sincerity, George readily agreed to the proposed reconciliation, and expressed a very great desire to see Mr. Marsden; who, not waiting to receive his visit on board, resolved to go on shore for the purpose of seeing both him and the other chiefs.

As it was a measure of considerable importance to the missionaries to be on terms of

friendship with the surrounding tribes, this opportunity of conciliating their good wishes and forming an alliance with them, appeared a favourable one, and not to be neglected. These tribes had frequently attacked Tippoonah, the place where the mission was to be settled, and had proved themselves so formidable in the assaults they had made, as to be a terror to the inhabitants; so that to secure their friendship, was not only expedient, but of the last necessity. But in addition to this, which was the principal motive, there was another also which induced us to go on shore at this place. We wished to learn, if possible, from the tribe of Wangeroa, that which had so cruelly cut off the Boyd, some details respecting that horrid catastrophe, and the motives that impelled them to it. Therefore Mr. Marsden and myself, accompanied by Mr. Kendall, Mr. Hall, and the chiefs Duaterra and, Shunghi, landed to pay them a visit. In our progress we thought it advisable to observe a great deal of caution, and directing Duaterra to go on before as our vanguard, we followed him at a convenient distance. After passing through a large

village crowded with inhabitants, who gazed very earnestly on us as we went along, and after walking about half a mile, we came close to the encampment of these intrepid barbarians.

4 The Sibyl.

CHAPTER V

CHAP. V.

Invitation to approach the camp – Reception – Description of the warriors – Their dress and weapons – Character of the chief George – We return to the village, and dine there in public – Venerable old men – Description of the village and the adjacent country – We revisit the camp, intending to spend the night there – Supper prepared – Circumstances respecting the Boyd – George's account of the cutting off of that vessel – Cruelty and imprudence of the Captain – The horrid massacre of all the crew and passengers occasioned by it – Reflections on that catastrophe – The warriors retire to rest – Our awful situation – Remain in security through the night – Strange appearance of the camp in the morning.

THE camp at first sight presented a most singular appearance, and before the mind had time to reflect on the description of persons who composed it, all the grotesque combinations of barbarism arresting the eye in every direction, created ideas of surprise and astonishment. For us, it must have been an awful reflection, to find ourselves now within a few yards of a horde of armed savages, on whose hospitality or perfidiousness our lives were to depend. However,

we remained undaunted, and were resolved to prosecute our purpose at any risk.

The moment we were perceived, one of their women made a signal to us, by holding up a red mat, and waving it in the air, while she repeatedly cried out at the same time in a loud and shrill voice, haromai, haromai, haromai, (come hither,) the customary salutation of friendship and hospitality. Though determined at all hazards to advance, we were not a little encouraged by this cheering invitation, which when once given, is invariably held sacred among them; and we were proceeding boldly, when Duaterra deemed it expedient to check our progress for a few moments. He thought it better, though assured of their good faith from the signal they had given, that himself and Shunghi should have an interview with the chiefs before we entered the camp, in order that our welcome might be made the more cordial. They accordingly went on before us, and saluting George and Tippouie by touching noses in the usual way, they interchanged a few words with them. Duaterra then made a signal for us to approach, and Mr. Marsden, going up to the chiefs, shook hands with them, as did likewise Mr. Kendall,

Mr. Hall, and myself. The chiefs, three in number, were all standing up, and their warriors, seated round them, had their spears stuck in the ground, and seemed to behave themselves with respectful obedience, paying every proper deference to their authority. During the whole ceremony of, our introduction, the old woman never ceased waving the red mat and repeating a number of words, which, according to Duaterra, were prayers exclusively designed for the occasion, and suggested the first moment she beheld us. Though the signal of the mat had set our minds completely, at rest, and removed all apprehensions of danger, yet another auspicious one was now to be given, which was still more significant and confirmatory. – Duaterra and Shunghi, standing up with an air of unreserved confidence, fired off their loaded pistols, while their rival chiefs, George and Tippouie, doing the same, I thought proper to follow their example, and immediately discharged my fowling-piece. This conclusive signal of amity was regarded by the warriors, who had hitherto remained silent spectators, as the prelude to their commencing themselves; and instantly a report from six or seven muskets was heard to reverberate

in our ears; and spears and fire-arms coming together in deafening collision, the noise very soon became insupportable. It would be hard to say which was more tormented during this conciliatory exhibition, the ear or the eye; for the war-dance now commencing, was attended with such frightful gesticulations, and such horrible varieties of convulsive distortions, that to see was no less painful than to hear. Yells, shrieks, and roars, answered in responsive discord to all the clashing fury of their weapons, and the din made by this horde of savages might inspire even the most resolute mind with terror and dismay.

The chiefs were now in perfect harmony with each other, and the furious clamour having ceased, I had an opportunity of meditating on the scene before me, while Mr. Marsden stood in conversation with George. It was certainly a grand and interesting spectacle. These savage warriors, amounting to about a hundred and fifty of as fine men as ever took the field in any country, were encamped on a hill which rose in a conical shape to a considerable height; and the many imposing singularities they presented, were such as to excite a particular interest in the

mind of the beholder. Few of these men were under six feet in height, and their brawny limbs, their determined countenances, and their firm and martial pace, entitled them very justly to the appropriate designation of warriors.

The general effect of their appearance was heightened by the variety of their dresses, which often consisted of many articles that were peculiarly becoming. The chiefs, to distinguish them from the common men, wore cloaks of different coloured furs, which were attached to their mats, and hung down over them in a manner not unlike the loose jackets of our hussars. The dress of the common warriors only wanted the fur cloaks to make it equally rich with that of their superiors, for it was in every other respect the same, and sometimes even more showy. Many of them wore mats, which were fancifully worked round with variegated borders, and decorated in other respects with so much curious art as to bespeak no less the industry than the exquisite taste of the ingenious maker. The mats of others among them were even still more beautiful, for they were of a velvet softness and glossy lustre, while ornamented with devices which were equally

tasteful with those I have described. These mats were all made from the flax, and some dyed with red ochre, so that the appearance they presented was gay and characteristic. Each individual wore two of them, and some even more, the inside one being always tied round the waist with a belt similar to that I have already described in another part of this work. In this belt was stuck their pattoo pattoo, which is their principal war instrument, and carried by them at all times, no less for the purposes of defence and attack, than as a necessary ornamental appendage. Indeed there can be nothing extraordinary in this, for the same is done in every country, polished or unpolished, the only difference being as to the weapons borne by the various nations; and the warrior of Wangeroa is quite as proud of his rude pattoo pattoo, as the vainest military officer can possibly be of his dangling sabre.

With the exception of the chiefs, there were very few of them tattooed, and all had their hair neatly combed and collected in a knot upon the top of the head, where it was ornamented with the long white feathers of the gannet. Many of them had decorations which never failed to remind one of their

martial ferocity. These were the teeth of the enemies they had slain in battle, which hung down from the ears of several of them, and were worn as recording trophies of their bloody conquest. But ornaments less obnoxious than these to the civilized beholder, were frequently seen among them, and I observed some of green jade that were extremely curious. However, I could not suppress my emotions on seeing the dollars that were taken from the plunder of the unfortunate Boyd, suspended from the breasts of some of them, and all the horror of that cruel transaction was revived in my mind. But the ornaments on which they set the most value, were rude representations of the human form, made of green jade, and carved with some ingenuity. These hung down from their breasts in the same manner as the dollars.

Their instruments of war were as diversified as their dresses and decorations, and the weapons of no two of them were exactly the same in shape and dimensions. The greater part of them carried spears, but these were all of different lengths, and otherwise made in such a manner as to preclude the idea of uniformity; though there were some

particulars in which a similarity among the whole of them might be observed. I remarked many of them with short spears, which serve them for the same purpose that the musket is employed in other countries, to attack their enemies at a distance; and this they generally do to some effect, by darting these spears at them with a sure aim. The long spears, which are headed at the end with whalebone worked down to an extremely sharp point, they use as lances, and with these they do great execution in close attack. Battle axes also were carried by some individuals among them, as likewise an instrument resembling a sergeant's halbert, which had large bunches of the parrot's feathers tied round the top of it by way of ornament. Others brandished in their hands long clubs made of whalebone, and all carried the pattoo pattoo, an instrument of no fixed dimensions, though generally about eleven or twelve inches long, and four broad. In shape, it bears some resemblance to the battledore, but is worked out to a sharp edge, and one blow from it would instantly sever the hardest skull. They employ them for the purpose of knocking down their enemies when they come to close combat, and indeed no weapon.

can do this more effectually. Those I have seen were variously made of the whalebone, the green jade, and a dark coloured stone, susceptible of a high polish. The ingenuity they evince in making these weapons is really surprising, and I am fully convinced that none of our best mechanics, with all the aid of suitable tools, could finish a more complete piece of workmanship in this line than one of these savages, whose whole technical apparatus consists of a shell or a sharp stone. Tippouie, who, I must now observe, was the brother of George, had a weapon of this description which he had beat out of some bar iron, and the polish it displayed was so very fine, that I could not have thought it possible for it to have been effected by the simple process of a New Zealander, had I not many other proofs of the astonishing ingenuity of these people. Thus did the savage instruments of death present themselves to my view in every shape, and the scene gave rise to many powerful sensations.

The fated crew of the Boyd were still present in my mind, and the idea that I was at that very moment surrounded by the cannibals who had butchered them, and had seen the very weapons that had effected their

slaughter, caused a chilling horror to pervade my frame, while looking only at the deed itself, I never once considered that it might have been provoked.

But while my mind was thus agitated with the reflections produced by this shocking massacre, I contemplated with surprise the faces of the perpetrators. Never did I behold any, with the exception of one countenance, (George's) that appeared to betray fewer indications of malignant vengeance. I observed, on the contrary, an air of frankness and sincerity pictured in them all, and the fierceness they displayed was not that of barbarous fury impatient for destruction, but of determined courage, still ready to engage, but always prepared to shew mercy. Such, in general, would appear to be the character of these warriors, were their faces to be taken as the criterion; but to estimate by this rule is not always safe, though it is generally found less erroneous than any other with respect to savage nations. Civilized habits very frequently help to conceal those bad passions which would otherwise openly betray themselves, and dissimulation can never be managed as artfully by the barbarian as by the man of polished

refinement. The savage, it is true, may meditate in dumb silence some horrible deed of murderous revenge, but it rarely happens that his countenance does not shew the brooding rancour of his heart, while the accomplished villain of civilized life can always disguise his nefarious purposes.

The public, I should suppose, are already aware from Mr. Marsden's statement, that the chief George, who is known by this name to the European sailors, some of whom, in all probability, first gave it to him, had been the principal agent in cutting off the Boyd, and certainly the face of this man bespoke him capable of committing so atrocious an act. His features were not unsightly, but they appeared to veil a dark and subtle malignity of intention, and the lurking treachery of a depraved heart was perfectly legible in every one of them. He had acquired too, from his intercourse with European sailors, a coarse familiarity of manner, mingled with a degree of sneering impudence, which gave him a character completely distinct from his countrymen, and making him odious in our view, reconciled us the more easily to their unsophisticated rudeness. This chief having served on board some of the whalers, could

speak English very fluently, and on my going up to shake hands with him, he thought proper to return the compliment with "How do you do, my boy?" which he uttered in so characteristic a style of vulgar freedom, yet so totally unlike the blunt familiarity of honest friendship, that he excited at the same moment my abhorrence and disgust. It was necessary, however, to be very circumspect towards this designing chief, and I took care that he should see nothing in my conduct that could lead him to suspect he was at all obnoxious to me.

The contending parties being now in perfect amity with each other, and peace firmly established, we left the camp to return to the village, resolving however to come back again, and spend the night among these warriors, with whose reception of us we had every reason to be satisfied. We wished to shew them by all the means in our power, that we were capable of forgetting the enormity of the crime they had committed, and that we harboured no resentment against them for the cruel slaughter of our unfortunate countrymen. It was with this view, therefore, that we determined on trusting ourselves for the night to their good faith.

and Mr. Marsden was anxious to convince George, by such confidence, he was no longer in our eyes an object of hatred or suspicion. But whatever may have been the sentiments of this gentleman towards that insidious barbarian, my own were decidedly prejudiced against him; and if I had no apprehensions for our personal safety, it was because I trusted more to the hearts of his people, than to any other honourable principle in their chief. Assured by Duaterra that these people were never known to violate the signal they had given us, I felt perfectly at ease; and though George might himself be disposed to act treacherously, he could find none in this instance who would co-operate in his designs. Yet here let me be understood as speaking of this man only from my own individual feelings, and the impression he made on me by his appearance and behaviour, for there was no positive act to warrant the censure I have passed upon him, though I rather think I have not been much deceived as to his real character.

When we got back to the village, Duaterra, with Mr. Kendall and Mr. King, returned to the vessel, and Shunghi, who had ordered his people to prepare some fish and potatoes

for our dinner, had them now brought before us, and we sat down with a good appetite. Mr. Marsden's New Zealand servant, Tommy Drummond, had by this time come on shore with some tea and an iron tea kettle, and this favourite beverage was never before more grateful to us. The repast was laid out in a large open space, and we were quickly surrounded by crowds of the natives, each with wild amazement visible in his countenance. Men, women and children, flocked in upon us in one oppressive body, so that to keep ourselves from being suffocated, we were obliged to form a circle, which none was allowed to pass, and seating themselves all round the verge of it, they watched our motions with the most eager curiosity. Many of them had never before in the whole course of their lives beheld an European, and to see packaha kiki, (the white man eat,) was a novelty of so curious a nature, that they gazed on it with wonder and delight. Our situation at this moment reminded me very forcibly of certain European kings, who, to shew their subjects that monarchs must eat as well as themselves, have long been in the habit of taking their sumptuous banquets in public. They kept their eyes steadfastly fixed

on us all the time, and not a single occurrence escaped their observation; while staring with surprise, they frequently called to those around them to look at the wonders we presented. Many of them expressed their astonishment in silent attention, and others, bursting out into fits of laughter at every bit we ate, were exceedingly amused by the spectacle. We distributed biscuit and sugar-candy among several of them, which they liked so well that they appeared eagerly desirous to get more, smacking their lips with an exquisite relish for these unknown luxuries.

I observed among the crowd some venerable looking old men, who regarded us with silent contemplation, and seemed rather occupied in forming conjectures as to the motives that induced us to visit their country, than in taking any particular notice of what we were doing. They appeared not to feel any interest whatsoever in the distribution of the biscuits and sugar-candy, and while the young folks, with few exceptions, were all as merry as possible, these mute sages were wrapped in profound meditation. Still looking on us with an air of dignified gravity and serious reflection, they never uttered a word, and a

strange association of ideas formed in my mind some resemblance between them and the Roman senators, when Brennus came with hostile vengeance to destroy the city. But they had nothing of this kind to dread from us, as we wished rather to improve, than demolish their wretched capital.

After having finished our repast, we walked through the village, which we found to consist of about fifty huts, and one hundred and fifty inhabitants. The huts were much better built than those upon the island, and the roofs of many of them were shaped like the curved top of a waggon, while others extended in the form of a sharp ridge, increasing in breadth from the summit to the extremities on each side. A small enclosure in which there was a shed where the inhabitants used to take their meals, surrounded each of these huts, and the general effect of the whole was not uninteresting.

Shunghi informed us, that this village belonged to a chief named Kedah, who was subordinate to his brother Kangeroa, but how far his authority extended over him we could not ascertain. Kedah we had not an opportunity of seeing at this time, as he had gone on board the vessel. There is very little

level ground in the neighbourhood of the village, the hills rising at a short distance from the shore in close contiguity, and covered down to the very base either with fern or hanging wood. The fern is an invaluable production to these people, who subsist in a great measure on the roots of it, from which they prepare a sort of bread. As it grows here in the greatest abundance, they may be always sure of an inexhaustible supply.

On the beach I observed two very handsome war canoes, which were curiously ornamented at both ends with carved work, and embellished in other parts with various feathers of a sprightly colour.

The solemn hour of night was now approaching, and leaving these poor villagers, we returned to the camp, accompanied by our friend Shunghi, whose fidelity and attachment were sincere and devoted. We were also attended by the New Zealand sailor, who used to act as interpreter between us and his countrymen; and on our arrival, we found the warriors all seated on the ground, and the brother chiefs, George and Tippouie, in the midst of them. On our approach they instantly made room for us,

and we were invited by George to place ourselves next to him, and some dressed potatoes were laid before us in a basket, which we were to partake of for our supper.

After eating a few of the potatoes, we entered into conversation with George, and anxious to learn from him all the particulars respecting the Boyd, we immediately commenced that melancholy subject. But before I proceed to the details we received from him, it may be proper to state the fatal circumstances connected with that unfortunate vessel.

The Boyd, a ship of about five hundred tons, commanded by Captain John Thompson, was chartered by Government in 1809, to take out convicts to Botany Bay, when, having completed her charter-party, and taken a number of passengers for England, she proceeded to New Zealand for a cargo of timber. The Captain, I believe, intended this timber for the north-west coast of America, where it was to have been disposed of, but unfortunately both himself and the crew were surprised and massacred, by George and his tribe, while the vessel accidentally taking fire, was burnt down to the water's edge. Having thus given the short history of this

ill-fated ship, I shall now relate the particulars communicated to us by George, who seemed very desirous of extenuating his own atrocious criminality. I must, however, in justice observe, that if the following account can be relied upon, the provocation he had received was very great, and such as at all times would lead a barbarian to the most horrible revenge.

He stated, that himself and another of his countrymen being together at Port Jackson, they both agreed with Captain Thompson to work their passage to their own country. It happened, he said, however, that he was taken so ill himself during the voyage, as to be utterly incapable of doing his duty; which the Captain not believing to be the case, and imputing his inability to work rather to laziness than indisposition, he was threatened, insulted, and abused by him. George attempted to remonstrate against this severe treatment; but the Captain being a man of a choleric temper, this only exasperated him the more, and it was in vain that the other told him he was a chief in his own country, and ought to be treated with some respect, urging at the same time his illness, and assuring him that this was the only cause that

prevented him from working. The enraged Captain would pay no regard to what he said, but calling him a cookee cookee, (a common man,) had him tied up to the gangway, and flogged most severely. This degrading treatment of the Captain towards him, taking away all restraint from the ship's company, he was subject during the rest of the voyage to their taunts and scurrilities, and they persecuted him, he said, in every possible way that they could devise.

Such treatment, it will readily be supposed, must have sunk deeply into a mind like George's, and the revenge he meditated was no less terrible than certain. But whether he resolved on it during the voyage, or had afterwards formed the diabolical design, I was not able to discover; though I imagine he had conceived it before he got on shore, as he told the Captain very emphatically, while he was derided by him for calling himself a chief, that he would find him to be such on arriving at hie country. This, however, might have been said without any other idea than to assure him of the fact, and was a natural reply enough to his taunting incredulity. But a stronger circumstance than this, leads me to suppose that George had determined on

his horrid purpose while he was yet on board. On their arrival at New Zealand, the Captain, induced most probably by his suggestions, ran the ship into Wangeroa, a harbour which I believe had never before been entered by any European vessel, and which lying in the very territory of the chief whom he had so ill-treated, was recommended, I doubt not, to make his destruction inevitable. He would not acknowledge to us that he himself suggested this harbour to the Captain as the most convenient place for him to take in his cargo, though from his evasive answers I am fully persuaded he decoyed him into it.

The ship being now anchored in his own harbour, the Captain, he informed us, sent him on shore; having first stripped him of every thing English he had about him, to the very clothes he had on, which were also taken from him; so that he was received by his countrymen almost in a state of perfect nudity. To these he instantly related all his hardships, and the inhuman treatment he had received on board, while enraged at the detail, they unanimously insisted on revenge, and nothing short of the destruction of the Captain and the crew, and taking possession of

the vessel, could satisfy their fury. This he promised to do, and the work of slaughter was now about to commence, while the devoted victims remained unconscious of the infernal project.

The imprudence and temerity of Captain Thompson assisted that vengeance which his misconduct had roused, and were now displayed in too evident a manner. Never once reflecting on the character of the savage, whose favourite passion is revenge, and not considering that his own tyranny had provoked the most signal retaliation that could be taken, he had the rashness to leave the ship unprotected, and taking a boat's crew with him, proceeded to the shore, where a horde of outrageous cannibals stood prepared for his destruction. The duration of this dreadful tragedy was short. He had scarcely landed, when he was knocked down and murdered by Tippouie; and his sailors, unhappily sharing the same fate, were all stripped by the barbarians, who immediately appeared dressed in the clothes of their victims, and went on to the ship to complete the carnage. Arriving at the ship with their revenge unsatiated, and still raging for blood, a general massacre of the remaining part of

the crew, together with all the passengers on board, immediately ensued; and with the exception of four individuals, neither man, woman, nor child, of all that had left Port Jackson, escaped the cruel vengeance of their merciless enemies. It was in vain they sought to conceal themselves; they were soon discovered with a fatal certainty, and dragged out to suffer the most excruciating torments. Some of the sailors running up the rigging, with the hope that when the fury of the Savages should have subsided, their own lives might be spared, met the same fate as the rest of their unfortunate companions. Coming down at the request of Tippahee, who had, on that dreadful morning, come into the harbour from the Bay of Islands, they put themselves under his protection; and though the old chief did all in his power to prevent their being massacred, his efforts were unavailing, and they fell before his eyes, the last victims in this last scene of blood and horror. But here I am wrong, this was not the last scene, for there was one more at which humanity will shudder, as well as the person who records it. These savages, not satisfied with the vengeance they had already taken, and true to their character as cannibals,

feasted themselves on the dead bodies of their victims, devouring the mangled flesh till their inhuman appetites were completely glutted.

The four who had escaped the cruel destiny of all the rest, consisted of a woman, two children, and the cabin boy; these, except the last, had fortunately eluded the search of the barbarians till their thirst of blood was satiated, and then being discovered were spared, and treated with some kindness. The cabin boy having, during the voyage, ingratiated himself into favour with George, by several acts of friendship, had now the good fortune to receive that reward which of all others was the most valuable to him – his life. The chief, impressed with a grateful recollection of his kind offices, received him in an affectionate manner: while he ran to him for protection, and crying out, in a piteous strain, "George, you won't kill me!" he was answered by the other, who shewed that with all his cruelty he was capable of gratitude, "No, my boy, I won't kill you, you are a good boy;" and taken by him under his own immediate care.

Such was the end of the unfortunate Boyd, and such the melancholy fate of a number of people all cut off in the prime of

life, and lost to their country, their friends, and their dearest connections, by the intemperate violence of one individual. Not less, I should suppose, than seventy human beings were destroyed in this furious carnage; and the vessel, which was of five hundred tons burden, and completely equipped in every particular, must have contained property of very considerable value. The conduct of Captain Thompson should be held up as a warning to all other commanders of ships, and should teach them to avoid those acts of tyrannical oppression, and unguarded precipitancy, which were attended with such terrible consequences to this unfortunate man, and those who had committed themselves to his protection. They should learn from this fatal instance of indiscretion, to act always in accordance with the cool dictates of reason, and never suffer the ebullitions of unruly passion to prevail over their better judgment. But whatever might have been the imprudence of this rash individual, his fate is still to be regretted, and the man who could consider his offence as commensurate with the punishment, would never deserve to be ranked among the friends of humanity. The impartial writer, while he exposes his errors to

public animadversion, may at the same time be allowed to sympathize in the catastrophe of his hapless doom; and that heart must be truly insensible, which a scene like the preceding cannot move to the soft feelings of pity. Mine, I thank Providence, was never so obdurate; and led away by the horror I felt at such indiscriminate carnage, I had almost wished at the moment, that the barbarous perpetrators were all swept away in the vengeance of heaven from off the face of the creation. I felt too an unchristian pleasure at learning from George, that many of them were blown up by the explosion of the powder magazine on board the ship; which was occasioned by one of the chiefs firing at the sailors, and being too near the place where it stood. But though my abhorrence of the crime they had committed, remained always the same, it was impossible for me to entertain towards themselves a lasting enmity; the many good qualities which I saw they possessed, could never be found in hearts that were completely vicious, and made me indulge the fond hope, that one day or other they might efface from all minds the remembrance of their atrocities. And yet perhaps the most strict moralist will not hesitate to allow even to these atrocities,

shocking as they are to human nature, a degree of palliation from the circumstances in which they originated. The head chief of a faithful tribe returns to his country and people, after having experienced indignities and hardships of the most grievous nature. Left almost naked on the shore, he relates his sufferings, and sympathizing in them, they stimulate that revenge which very probably he had already meditated. This revenge is taken in the dreadful manner I have described, and if it is so disproportioned to the offence, it is because the barbarian draws no comparisons in these cases, and has never learned to employ an exact scale of retribution. Man, whether in a rude or civilized state, is never disposed to passive quiescence under the goading hand of oppression, and few are magnanimous enough to neglect an opportunity of revenge whenever it presents itself.

George told Mr. Marsden, that if we would accompany him to Wangeroa, we might take any part of the wreck we thought proper, and that at low water the guns might be got out, as also some cedar that was still remaining in the hold. Of the dollars they had plundered, he said, we could obtain but very few; as they had almost all been

bartered away among the different tribes. This chief gave us here some account of his previous life, and informed us, that before he had engaged himself to sail in the Boyd, he had served on board some other English ships, the captains of which had behaved to him with great kindness. He particularly mentioned a Captain Wilkinson, of whom he spoke in the highest terms; and it were much to be desired that all other commanders of vessels would, instead of provoking the vengeance of savages, strive to merit that tribute of gratitude which his conduct has obtained.

After George had communicated to us all the particulars I have narrated, it was time to prepare for rest, and the warriors, stretching themselves on the ground, began to wrap their kakahows more closely about them. The scene now became awfully appalling. Night threw its gloomy shade over the ruthless murderers of our countrymen, while we, but two in number, remained perfectly defenceless in the midst of them; trusting only to the internal dictates of their hearts, for the privilege of existing a single instant. Yet reflecting on their disposition, which is never vengeful without sufficient

cause, we felt no alarms for our safety; and though perhaps we may have subjected ourselves to the imputation of having unnecessarily exposed our lives in a perilous situation, we ourselves could see no danger in what we had done, and were prompted to it by far other motives than the vanity of adventurous enterprise. George, to whom I wish to render all the merit he deserves, however I may dislike his appearance and manner, was, I must say, particularly attentive to us, and wished to make us as comfortable as he possibly could. At his particular request, we laid ourselves down to sleep beside himself and his wife, Mr. Marsden being on one side, and I on the other. The ground was our bed, and we had no other covering than the clothes we wore; while stretched at full length under the broad canopy of heaven, we prepared for repose, and feared not to close our eyes in the very centre of these cannibals. 5 They proved themselves worthy of such confidence, and in no instance-did there appear the least disposition to take

advantage of it. I slept tolerably well for some part of the night, and awaking at the dawn of day, a scene, the strangest that can be imagined, presented itself to my view. An immense number of human beings, men, women, and children, some half naked, and others loaded with fantastic finery, were all stretched about me in every direction; while the warriors, with their spears stuck in the ground, and their other weapons lying beside them, were either peeping out from under their kakahows, or shaking from off their dripping heads the heavy dew that had fallen in the night. Before sun-rise they were all up, and being invigorated and refreshed by that profound sleep which health is always sure to invite, they rose with lively spirits to their desultory pursuits, and spent no time in lethargic slumbers. This is the practice which Nature prescribes, and I could sincerely wish it were more generally followed; but while the rich continue to be luxurious voluptuaries, frequenters of "midnight revels and the public show," the poor, corrupted by

their example, are often led to turn night into day, and both invert that order which was established for their health as well as for their happiness. But it is time I should conclude this chapter, lest my readers should suppose that I am going to trouble them with a dissertation on ethics.

5 Mr. Marsden thus expresses the emotions he felt on this night: "I viewed our present situation with sensations and feelings that I cannot express – surrounded by cannibals who had massacred and devoured our countrymen, I wondered much at the mysteries of Providence, and how these things could be! Never did I behold the blessed advantages of civilization in a more grateful light than now." – See Missionary Register for November 1816.

CHAPTER VI

CHAP. VI.

Reflections suggested by the preceding night – The Wangeroa chiefs are invited on board the ship – Cordially received – Duaterra arranges the form of making presents to them – Respect of the New Zealanders for old age – Duaterra's caution to George – The chiefs return on shore – Advice to commanders of ships on visiting this island – Passion of the natives for axes and fire-arms – The ship gets under weigh – Arrives at Point Pocock – Enters the Bay of Islands – Description of the harbour and its vicinity – Korra-korra being visited by bis brother and son, proceeds to his district – The Author and Mr. Marsden go on shore – Proceed to the town of Rangehoo – Followed by crowds of the natives, all happy to see them – Surprise occasioned by the sight of the cattle – Incredulity – Description of Rangehoo – Duaterra's residence and family – A present made to his head wife – Widow and daughter of Tippahee – A New Zealand beauty – A dance and song by three females – The Author and his friend return to the ship – Revisit the island next day – Clemency of Duaterra towards the seducer of one of his wives – Adultery punished with death in New Zealand – Curious distinction as to the guilt of the parties.

THE morning of the 21st of December found us in perfect safety, after having passed the night among these people without the least molestation. I must here observe, that this honourable security of our persons, which we had placed completely in their power, is

the strongest proof that can be given of their not being wantonly cruel; and that if treated with kindness, their friendship might readily be conciliated. It may be questioned whether Nature has ever formed any race so perversely implacable as to repel those kindly feelings which a courteous demeanour and obliging services must always inspire; and the most barbarous savage will not feel the same sensations in his heart, while subject to the galling lash of the oppressor, as when tenderly treated by the benevolent philanthropist.

The chiefs George and Tippouie, with three or four of their warriors, were invited to accompany us to breakfast on board the ship, with which they were very happy to comply, and shewed no signs of fear or hesitation. Passing through the village on our return, we found the inhabitants all stirring and going about their usual employments. We were very soon followed to the beach, where our boat lay ready to receive us, by numbers of them who crowded round us, and were very ready to offer us their assistance in pushing off the boat. As we put off from the shore, the morning was ushered in with all the brilliancy of

Nature, and every sense was regaled with the delightful freshness which the light breezes from the coast were continually wafting along with them. The sun had just risen from the ocean, and the distant horizon seemed already enlivened by its beams, while the cloudless atmosphere, soft and serene, tempering its genial warmth with the agreeable coolness of the early hour, appeared to revive the whole animated creation. My mind was powerfully impressed with the scene, for never before did Nature present herself to my view, more sublime and magnificent.

The moment we got on board, we had all the ship's company drawn up upon deck as a compliment to the chiefs, whom they saluted with three hearty cheers, and this gave them a very satisfactory assurance of the cordiality of our welcome. This testimonial of friendship, which might be said to answer to their own signal of the mat, was no sooner over, than they were conducted to the cabin, where Mr. Marsden, intending to pay them every respect and distribute presents among them, appointed Duaterra to act as master of the ceremonies. This chief was probably the best qualified of any for such an office, when such

visitors were to be received, and the arrangements he made were appropriate and satisfactory. The chiefs George and Tippouie he placed on one side the table, and directed Mr. Marsden himself to stand on the other. All the rest who had access to the cabin, were, together with myself, ranged round it, and each individual took his station with a scrupulous regard to decorum. The presents, consisting of pieces of red India print, plane irons, scissars, nails, and fish-hooks, were then brought, and Duaterra, handing them to Mr. Marsden, desired him to pay the first compliment to Tippouie as being the eldest, and then to George, with the same attention to respect. These people are extremely observant in this particular, and the Lacedaemonians, who were celebrated for the deference they paid to age, never held an old man in more veneration than they do. Indeed, this fine trait is perceptible in the character of all the islanders in this part of the world, and an excellent work which has lately been published, 6 records it

in a manner highly creditable to the people of whom it treats. With the presents they received, Mr. Marsden gave each of them one of Governor Macquarie's proclamations, the substance of which was explained to them by Duaterra; and this business being concluded, we all shook them by the hand, giving them at the same time another volley of cheers, which they were not backward in returning.

Duaterra, now addressing himself to George, commenced an admonitory lecture, by which he was to regulate his future conduct. He told him, that as he was no longer considered an enemy by the white people, and had nothing to fear as to any retaliation of the horrid deed he had committed, he should be particularly careful that his future behaviour should continue to deserve oblivion of the past, and be such as at all times might entitle him to our friendship. But if the contrary were the case, and that he ever again resolved on

cutting off another vessel, the revenge, he said, both upon himself and his tribe, would be dreadful and decisive; for Governor Macquarie would send a ship with such a number of men, as would instantly destroy every living soul at Wangeroa. The next caution he gave him was relative to his own territory. He charged him never again upon any account to bring his warriors to Tippoonah, or venture to attack it, as in the event of his doing so, he would himself collect all his people and offer such a resistance, as would punish his audacity and make him repent of the enterprise. However, if he should wish to obtain any thing from him occasionally, he said, it would be readily granted, on making proper application, either personally or by message; but every attempt at force would not only be repelled with success, but retaliated with vengeance.

Duaterra delivered this address with much impressive earnestness, and George heard it with serious attention; never interrupting the speaker except when he wished to disclaim the idea of future hostility, and then he would shake his head, and cry out, "No, no;" while in this instance the

warmth of his manner might shew he was sincere.

This caution being given, and breakfast being over, the chiefs prepared to return on shore, and getting into a canoe which their people had brought along-side, they left us quite delighted with the presents they had received, and impressed with the most favourable sentiments of our hospitality and munificence.

Thus has the laudable enterprise of Mr. Marsden succeeded, to all appearance, in conciliating the natives of Wangeroa; and the accomplishment of this measure must add considerably to the security of the mission, as this ferocious race being left to themselves, and without any such attempt on his part to gain them over, might eventually prove the destruction of the hopes he had formed. But though the persons and property of the missionaries are likely to be respected in consequence of the friendly intercourse thus established with these people, I am by no means prepared to say, that a similar regard would be paid to other Europeans. On this account, I should advise all commanders of vessels who may at any future time wish to enter their harbour, to be

first well provided with the means of defence, and next, to be always on the alert against the necessity to employ it. I have given my opinion already respecting George, and while I do him all the justice he deserves, this still remains unaltered. His heart, if I mistake not, conceals at bottom some of the worst qualities in human nature; and the intercourse he has had with our sailors, who are so shamefully prone to low swearing and abominable language of every kind, has made him au accomplished proficient in all their depravity, I never could perceive in him a single trace of that manly candour and ingenuous openness which I admired in Duaterra; and the sincerity he evinced on receiving the cautionary advice, seemed rather the result of alarm, than of moral conviction.

But, besides the character of this man, which is always to be suspected, there is another circumstance that deserves to be seriously considered. These savages have been suffered with impunity to retain their plunder; and as their dreadful attack upon the Boyd succeeded so well, it may probably act as an incentive to some future deed of similar cruelty. Iron and fire-arms are by

them held in greater estimation than gold and silver by us, and the most avaricious miser in Europe cannot grasp with such eagerness at a guinea or a dollar, as the New Zealander does at an axe or a musket

In this country, as in every other, there are to be found men whose actions are not restrained by any moral considerations; and when a chieftain of this character is invested with any considerable degree of authority and influence, too much precaution cannot be observed in the intercourse to be held with him. I would therefore repeat my caution to such captains of ships as may visit these regions, and this district in particular; for though remissness may not be attended with danger, it will be always better not to neglect the means of safety.

As soon as our visitors had taken their departure, Mr. Hall and myself, taking our fowling-pieces with us, and getting into a canoe that was along-side, were paddled to the shore and landed on the little island called Pannak. We were accompanied by two of the natives, and after ranging along the shore for a considerable distance, in the hope of meeting with some game, were completely disappointed, and could not get a

single shot. I gave my gun in charge to one of our attendants, who considered the privilege of carrying it, next to making him a present of it, the greatest favour I could possibly confer upon him. They pointed to some rocks where they said there were nuee nuee manno, (a great many birds,) and were very pressing to paddle us to them; with which, to satisfy their impatience, and for our own amusement, we did not hesitate to comply. As we were proceeding, however, we were soon obliged to return to the ship, for, espying a large canoe full of men making towards us, we were called by them with loud vociferations, and as it approached us, we were informed by one of our New Zealand sailors, that a favourable wind having sprung up, they were getting the vessel under sail for the Bay of Islands. Looking towards the ship, we found this to be the case; they were loosening the sails and making all the other necessary preparations; so, leaving the rocks unexplored, and the nuee nuee manno, if there were any there, undisturbed, we paddled back with all the haste we could make, and the ship immediately on our return stood out to sea.

On Thursday, December 22, just as the

day was beginning to appear, we found ourselves off Point Pocock, the northern entrance of the Bay of Islands. The opening of the harbour is formed by the projection of two long necks of land running together in a parallel direction, and getting very narrow towards the extremity; Point Pocock to the north, and Cape Brett to the south. The space between these promontories is about fifteen miles in breadth, and ships generally steer through the middle of the channel, as it is thought dangerous to approach too near to the shore of Point Pocock. We also judged it prudent to keep at a proper distance from this shore, and entered the harbour through the usual track. There is no part of New Zealand where the works of nature are not always powerful enough to arrest the attention of the contemplative mind; and the view presented in this quarter is peculiarly interesting. The hills which form the sides of the harbour disclose to the eye a rich covering of green fern, and lofty trees are seen together in clusters, that either hang from the side of one precipice, or rise gradually to the very summit of another. At a short distance from the mouth of the harbour is a large island, and beyond this the main land,

lying open to a considerable extent, and presenting numberless scenes of romantic attraction, till the view is terminated by a rugged chain of rising mountains.

At seven A. M. we discerned two canoes standing towards us, in one of which a native dressed in a seaman's jacket was seen waving a handkerchief, and the canoe in which he stood was adorned with a large blue flag hoisted at the stern. When she came alongside, all the sensibility of Korra-korra was awakened anew, and the moving tenderness of his affection was again elicited in tears of joy; he beheld his brother and his son, and falling on their necks, he seemed for some moments overpowered with his emotions, till bursting into tears, as in the interview with his aunt, he relieved his heart by weeping bitterly, uttering at the same time in low and monotonous accents, a few words, which I should suppose were meant for congratulations. His son, who was immediately brought on board, was a fine boy about ten years of age, and dressed in a cotton frock that had been given to him by the missionaries, on their first visit to the island. Leaving this lad in our charge, he wished to proceed himself to his territory; and getting his chest

and the different things belonging to him into the canoe, he shook hands most affectionately with us all, and, bidding us farewell, promised he would soon pay us a visit at Tippoonah. Before he paddled off, we saluted him with three cheers, which he and his party returned with double interest.

During the whole of the voyage, the steady and correct behaviour of Duaterra was highly commendable, and his services were often eminently useful. While entering the harbour, the Captain thought it expedient to put himself entirely under his direction, as being much better acquainted than himself with the particular localities, and knowing how to avoid some dangerous rocks which are concealed not far from the channel. He displayed on this occasion, both judgment and activity, and by his directions the ship was brought without having sustained the least injury abreast of Rangehoo, his place of residence, where we anchored in four fathoms water.

Thus arriving at length at the place of our destination, we were cheered with the prospect of the future, and regretted not the labours of the past. We now fired a salute with our great guns and musketry, as a

mark of respect to Duaterra, as well as to impress upon the minds of the natives that we were at peace and friendship with them. Mr. Marsden and myself had the boat lowered down, and went on shore; but Duaterra did not think proper to accompany us, as he wished to remain on board the ship till he had seen all the stock taken out of the hold and put into the boats. At the same time, I will say, that his showing more impatience to visit his friends after so long an absence from his native country, would have placed him much higher in my estimation than did this prudential delay. But he thought he might lose something by an affectionate precipitancy, and this is only another proof of the predominance of self-interest among these people.

We landed at the opening of a narrow valley, through which a small meandering stream found its way to the sea; the hills on each side were very steep, in some places almost perpendicular, and covered, as I before observed, with fern and trees. On the top of a hill that rose to the left of us with a rugged ascent, and overlooking the harbour, was built the town of Rangehoo, now the residence of Duaterra, and lately that of

Tippahee, whose melancholy fate I shall hereafter have occasion to notice. Around this town (if it may be so called) were several plantations of potatoes, coomeras, and other vegetables, and the cultivation had such an appearance of neatness and regularity, that a person not acquainted with the character of the natives, could never suppose it was the work of uncivilized barbarians. Each plantation was carefully fenced in, and hanging down from the sides of steep hills, might remind one of instances of similar industry which are related of the Chinese.

On the shore we found collected a number of the natives, men, women, and children, whose countenances and manner indicated very plainly the pleasure we afforded them by our visit. Mr. Marsden's name was familiar in their mouths, and they crowded round him with strong marks of affectionate regard. On the arrival of the boats with the cattle, they appeared perfectly bewildered with amazement, not knowing what to conclude respecting such extraordinary looking animals. Cows or horses they had never seen before, and diverted now from every thing else, they regarded them as stupendous prodigies. However, their astonishment was

soon turned into alarm and confusion; for one of the cows that was wild and unmanageable, being impatient of restraint, rushed in among them, and caused such violent terror through the whole assemblage, that imagining some preternatural monster had been let loose to destroy them, they all immediately betook themselves to flight.

But this cause of their panic being removed, they did not hesitate to return, and Mr. Marsden, mounting the horse, rode up and down the beach, exciting their wonder in a tenfold degree. To see a man seated on the back of such an animal, they thought the strangest thing in nature; and following him with staring eyes, they believed at the moment that he was more than mortal. – Though Duaterra, on his return from his former visit to Port Jackson, had described to his countrymen the nature and use of the horse, his account appeared to them so preposterous, that it only excited their ridicule. Having no name in his language for this animal, he thought that corraddee, their term for a dog, would be the best designation he could adopt; but as they could not elevate their ideas of it to the same height as bis description, they believed not a single word

he said. On telling them that he had seen large corraddees carry men and women about in land canoes, (meaning carriages,) they would put their fingers in their ears to prevent themselves from listening to him, and desire him very indignantly not to tell so many lies. A few of them, however, more curious than the rest, to prove his veracity, would mount upon the backs of their pigs, saying they must be more fit for the purpose of riding than the corraddees; and, endeavouring to gallop them about in the style of European horsemanship, they quickly tumbled into the dirt, and became quite as incredulous as their sceptical companions. This was, therefore, a day of triumph to Duaterra, as it afforded him an opportunity of convincing them by ocular demonstration of the truth of his statement. The cattle, on being landed, were all in a thriving condition, except the cow belonging to Shunghi, which appeared in a very weak state.

Duaterra, having got all his property on shore, was now ready to conduct us to his town, which standing, as I mentioned, on the summit of a steep hill, rendered the approach to it a work of some labour and fatigue. The plantations on the hill, which

appeared to such advantage at a distance, improved still more on a nearer view of them, and every thing bespoke not only the neatness, but even the good taste of the cultivators. Not a weed was to be seen, and the paling, which was ingenious though simple, gave an effect to the enclosure that was peculiarly striking. Before we reached the top, we could perceive that the town was a fortress of very great strength, considering the rude mode of warfare pursued in this island. It was almost encompassed with a deep and wide trench, on the inner side of which was formed a breast-work of long stakes stuck ia the ground at a short distance from each other, and so compactly firm as to be capable of resisting for a long time the most impetuous attacks of its undisciplined assailants. Passing this fortification, we entered the town itself, which consisted of some huts built on each side of several little lanes, or rather pathways, for they were made barely wide enough for one person to pass through at a time. Before each hut was an enclosed space, resembling a court-yard, in which was a shed or out-house, employed by the inhabitants for various purposes of domestic convenience. The entrance to these

enclosures was by stiles ingeniously contrived, and fancifully embellished; and I observed some on which there was a rude carving of the human form. The lanes on our way to Duaterra's residence, which stood on the most elevated part of the hill, were crossed in some parts with these stiles, and we were obliged to pass three of them before we got into the little lane that led up to the door.

The hut of this chief, (or if this mean epithet must be discarded for the grandest that can be used, his palace,) differed but little from those of his subjects, and was distinguished only by its being built upon a larger scale, and having more ground enclosed around it. It measured about twenty feet long, fifteen broad, and eight feet in height, with a ridge-like roof, and built of sticks interwoven with rushes. The doorway, like all the rest, was so very narrow as to preclude the possibility of entering it, unless by creeping in upon the hands and knees. The interior presented nothing to compensate the trouble of getting in, and a few stones thrown together to serve for a fire-place, were the only domestic articles I could possibly discover. Furniture there

was none, and the smoke finding no egress except through the door-way, which was the only aperture to be seen, the dismal edifice teemed with suffocating vapour, and formed with the wretched inmates, a complete picture of cheerless barbarism.

But the abject misery of these huts was in some measure compensated by the sheds outside, which were open, lightsome, and comparatively pleasant. Here they always take their meals, as they make it an invariable rule never to eat in their dwellings, and their reasons for observing this practice, are founded on certain superstitions of terrific controul. Duaterra, in addition to the one before his hut, had another of these sheds in an adjoining enclosure, where he kept his potatoes, coomeras, &c.; and a few paces outside this, was a little spot neatly fenced round, where he had erected a flag-staff, and suspended a flag, that had been given to him by the commander of one of our vessels who happened to touch at this part of the island.

This hill commanded a most noble prospect, taking in at one view, a great part of the extensive harbour and its numerous islands, with the whole of the surrounding

country. I found the town much larger than I at first supposed, while viewing- it from the ship, whence only a small portion of it could be seen, from the irregularity of the intervening ground. The huts and sheds taken together, may probably have been about a hundred, and I estimated the inhabitants at one hundred and fifty or two hundred souls.

Polygamy is universal among these islanders, and the number of wives varies in proportion to the circumstances of the individual; there being however a head wife who is treated with particular respect, and holds an ascendancy over the husband, which never excites the jealousy of the others. Duaterra had three wives, and the head one, to whom he introduced us, was considered no less a personage than a queen by all the people within his territory. Mr. Marsden presented her majesty with a cotton gown and petticoat, which he told her he had brought from Mrs. Marsden, who wished it to be given to her; and anxious to see how this European dress would become a New Zealand queen, he helped her to put it on, and it was ludicrous enough to see how adroitly he acted the part of a lady's maid

on this occasion. His instructions, shewing her how she was to put her arms in the sleeves, and directing her in adjusting the petticoat, amused me exceedingly, nor was it less laughable to see her majesty's vanity on being decked out in this novel attire. The New Zealand ladies, though the name of fashion has never reached their ears, are quite as fond of shewing off their charms to advantage as our own fair countrywomen; and Duaterra's favourite sultana possessed this passion for display in an extraordinary degree. She. moved about with a strutting affectation of dignity, and giving herself a thousand consequential airs, looking at her dress, and seeking admiration, seemed to take all her pride from the gown and petticoat. But I thought her own simple dress of a mat, tied round the waist, was much more becoming; for being low-sized, and very fat, with a round plump face, her new costume, which was much too tight for such a figure, gave her an awkward and embarrassing stiffness. Her face, however, made ample amends for her unshapely form, as it had many beauties which were both interesting and attractive. She had fine black eyes sparkling with animation; teeth of an

ivory whiteness; a blooming complexion; and all her features peculiarly expressive of cheerful complacency. During the absence of the chief, she had brought him a son and heir, a fine healthy looking boy that was suckled at her breast, and was alternately caressed by the several females in the family of Duaterra.

The curiosity of the natives to see us, brought crowds of them round the hut of their chief, and there were many old men, who, like those at the Cavalles, regarded all our actions in profound silence. In the group of women that stood gazing on us, was the widow of the late chief Tippahee, a poor decrepid old woman, who was attended by her daughter, and had nothing- in her appearance that could bespeak her the relict of so powerful a chief. She was meanly clad, and languishing under the weight of age and infirmity, her feeble body was hardly able to support itself. Her daughter was very lively, and distinguished from the other females by a large silver chain suspended from her neck, a present which her father had formerly received from the late Governor King.

I have before given some instances of the

tender affection subsisting between relations in this country, and no where else can it be found more ardent and sincere. The New Zealander loves his connections in the genuine warmth of his heart, and is never more happy than when he can enjoy their society. This principle was exemplified in the family of Duaterra, the father and relations of his head wife having come to live with them, as it was not convenient for the chief to leave his territory, and reside with them in the interior. His wife's two sisters were the most remarkable among these, one of whom was distinguished for her uncommon beauty, and the other for the facetious vivacity of her manner. The former appeared about seventeen, and would have been deemed even in England, where there are so many rivals for the palm of beauty, a candidate of the strongest pretensions. Her regular features, soft and prepossessing, displayed an engaging delicacy, the effect of which was heightened by the mild lustre of her eye; and her cheek, lightly tinged with the roseate hue of health, needed not the extraneous embellishment of paint, to which some of our finest belles are so fond of resorting. In her figure she was slender and graceful, while

the artless simplicity of her manner gave additional interest to her charms. Her sprightly sister was considerably older, not being less, I should suppose, than forty, and so fond of mirth that she was continually laughing; in fact, she appeared good-humour personified. We could easily perceive, from the effect her sallies had on her companions, who were directed to observe us, that the packaha, or white man, was the subject of some extraordinary remarks, and called forth the rarest specimens of her witty effusions. I doubt not but her jokes upon us were indulged with a good deal of freedom, as all our movements excited the loudest bursts of laughter.

Of the two other wives of Duaterra, one had been discarded for incontinence during his absence at Port Jackson, when she attached herself to another man, regardless of the duty she owed her husband; and the other, who was rather a well-looking woman, appeared on very good terms with the head wife. She nursed the child of the latter with as much affection as though it were her own, and behaved to it with the greatest care and tenderness. There was no rivalry, except in mutual good offices, among these wives.

To amuse us, three of the young women stood up to dance, accompanying their movements, which were both easy and graceful, with the song of Athoma, athoma, athoma, the words of which I have given in another part of this work. Happy people! they enjoyed the passing hour undisturbed by those vexatious cares, which in civilized society too often intrude themselves, to counteract the pleasures of the festive scene; and confiding implicitly in our friendly intentions, they gave themselves up to all the unreserved freedom of harmless mirth; pleased with themselves, and delighted with their visitors.

It was now time to return to the ship, and taking leave of Duaterra and his family, we proceeded to the beach, accompanied by a great concourse of the natives, who were all anxious to testify their regard for us, as well as to satisfy their own curiosity. The children were no less eager to see the packaha, than the grown folks; and running up to us in the most familiar manner, they vied with each other in endeavouring to attract our notice. As we were putting off from the shore, the whole assembled multitude cried out together, "Ire atudo, eckeneedo," their usual kind salutation on parting with their friends,

which serves among them for our word farewell.

On the next day, which was the 23d, we did not go on shore until the afternoon, lest our presence might interfere with the just punishment which Duaterra resolved to take in the morning on the man who had seduced his wife during his absence. This culprit, whose name was Warree, had been a sailor on board some of our ships, where he soon lost whatever crude notions he had of morality, and became, like George, from his intercourse with our seamen, an expert proficient in turpitude. And here the reader may allow me for a moment to digress, while I ask those excellent men who take such pains in the dissemination of divine truth among remote nations, why they do not turn their eyes with more earnestness, towards this profligate class, who are of our own country, and whose society is enough to contaminate the savage, and root out from his heart every sentiment of virtue that nature had implanted there? Their labour in this instance would surely be well applied, and might serve to reform men, who are at once the pride and disgrace of the British nation.

Korra-korra, of whose district this offender was a native, delivered him up to Duaterra on discovering his crime, being found by him at the Cavalles, whence he was brought by us a prisoner to the Bay of Islands. Duaterra had him put in irons and sent on shore; and though he was urged by Korra-korra and the rest of his countrymen to take his life, which was forfeited by the established usage of the island, yet such was the tenderness of his heart, that he was willing to commute the punishment, and resolved not to put him to death. Having asked Mr. Marsden's advice as to the sort of punishment he should inflict upon him, that gentleman suggested flogging as the most suitable, and this he immediately prepared to put into execution. The cat-o'-nine-tails he made himself, and shewing it to me, well knotted and tied, asked my opinion if I thought it would answer the purpose, and was very anxious to know the number of lashes that might be inflicted without endangering the man's life. Mr. Marsden, leaning to the side of mercy, advised only twenty.

In the afternoon when we got on shore, we discovered that Warree had been punished with thirty lashes inflicted by one of Dua-

terra's people; after which he was sent back to his place of confinement, where he was to remain till the ship sailed, when he was to be released and put on board. Duaterra wished that Mr. Marsden should keep him as a sailor for three years, telling the culprit that if he ever again ventured to come within his territory, he should be instantly put to death.

The clemency of this chief, in awarding so slight a punishment to an offence, which among the New Zealanders is held in equal abhorrence as with the Hebrews of old, and punished with the same rigour, afforded a strong proof of the goodness of his disposition, and left on my mind a lasting impression in his favour. Probably there never was an instance among them before this, of adultery escaping the punishment of death to one or other of the parties implicated; so great is their horror of this crime, which they think the most heinous that can be committed. It is worthy of remark, however, that they make a curious distinction as to the guilt of the parties. If the criminal connection is discovered in the hut belonging to the female, the man is instantly pronounced the seducer, and therefore consigned to death, while the

woman escapes with a sound beating; but if the contrary takes place, and the incontinent lady is detected in the man's hut, then she is sentenced to lose her life, being supposed to have allured her gallant, who goes off with impunity. It were well, probably, if the legislature would adopt this usage, with certain modifications, into our criminal code: we should then find wives more faithful to their husbands, and husbands more constant to their wives; and the purses and reputations of many folks, would not suffer such irreparable losses in the career of vice as they now sustain.

6 The work alluded to is "An Account of the Tonga Islands," which has just appeared, and from which, as it refers to this subject, I shall make the following extract.
"Old persons of both sexes are highly reverenced on account of their age and experience, insomuch that it constitutes a branch of their first moral and religious duty, viz. to reverence the gods, the chiefs, and aged persons; and consequently there is hardly any instance in these islands of old age being wantonly insulted." Vol. ii. p. 97.

CHAPTER VII

CHAP. VII.

The natives again assemble in crowds – Forwardness of the women – Tippahee's nephew – A consecrated place – Not allowed to approach it – The Author invited by the natives to partake of the fern-root, which is their principal food – Manner of preparing it – Industry of Duaterra's head wife – Visit of state from Korra-korra – Description of the scene – He brings some presents to the Author and his friend – A grand sham-fight – Curious manner of commencing it – An intrepid queen and her female warriors – Mary and her canoe – Place of worship prepared by Duaterra – Divine service performed there on Christmas day – Behaviour of the chiefs and their people on this occasion – Visit to the timber district – Description of the chief Tarra – His politeness and hospitality – His young wife, Mrs. Goshore – Return to the vessel – Two fugitive convicts come on board – Their wretched appearance – The manner of their getting to New Zealand – Their severe treatment among the natives, and the reason of it.

THE natives flocked round us on our second landing in the same manner as at first, and the curiosity and impatience of those who had already seen us, was not in the least abated by the repetition of our visit. The female part of the assemblage having been so long accustomed to occasional interviews with the crews of European ships, had lost that re-

tiring timidity which in other parts of the island was observable in their sex; and wished to convince us by their significant glances, how much they desired a more intimate acquaintance.

While Mr. Marsden was engaged in conversation with Duaterra, I walked along the beach, accompanied by one of the chief's relations, whose name was Turreeogunnah, a nephew of the late Tippahee. This young man appeared about five-and-twenty, with an open manly countenance, bespeaking at the same time a great deal of playful archness, and a disposition to every sort of humorous mischief. This propensity, however, he was cautious of indulging in my presence, and taking charge of my gun, which afforded him the highest gratification, he led me where I was likely to get a shot at some sea-fowl.

As we proceeded along the shore, I observed a piece of wood stuck in the ground at the foot of a large tree, rudely carved and painted with red ochre. Wishing to ascertain for what purpose it was placed there, I was advancing towards it, when my companion, stopping short and crying out "taboo, taboo" gave me to understand that a man was

buried there, and desired me not to approach it. With this injunction I thought it right to comply, though on learning what the piece of wood was designed for, my curiosity was still more excited than at first. The word taboo, in the language of these people, means sacred, and the coincidence between rude and civilized nations in venerating the places where the dead repose, cannot fail to be interesting to the man who takes a philosophical and comprehensive view of the human character. From the alarm of the young man who accompanied me, the New Zealanders, it would seem, are particularly observant in this respect, and consider any visit to the grave, after the body has been once laid there and the rites of sepulture performed, as a sacrilegious profanation.

We found several of the natives sitting on the ground in detached groups, and the cooks roasting and beating the fern-root. On seeing me, they did not desist from their labour, but welcoming me with their friendly salutation of haromai, haromai, appeared extremely desirous that I should sit down among them. I did not hesitate to gratify their wishes, while taking a seat and making myself quite familiar, I afforded them the

greatest pleasure imaginable. Throwing me the fern-root as well as the others, they considered me their guest; and, willing to conform to their habits in this instance, I readily consented to partake of it. This root is to the New Zealanders an invaluable production, as it forms the chief article of their diet, having no idea of subsisting on potatoes or coomeras exclusively, which are considered rather as luxuries that may occasionally afford them a delicious treat, than as food capable of supplying them with their principal sustenance. The fern grows all over this island, so as to cover the greatest part of the land; and from the healthy and vigorous appearance of the natives, I should suppose that its root must impart considerable nutriment. Their manner of preparing it is very simple. After leaving it in the fire for some time to be heated sufficiently, they take it out, and pound it with a mallet till it becomes quite soft, and fit for chewing. Being thus prepared for use, the cooks throw it round in handfuls to the chiefs and other persons, who chew it till all the saccharine or nutritive matter is extracted; and spitting out the fibrous part, they go on again, and continue

in this manner till they have satisfied their appetites. The fern-root, when hot, has a pleasant sweetish taste, and on being steeped in water, deposes a glutinous substance resembling jelly.

Leaving these good people still employed in their cookery, I accompanied Mr. Marsden to visit Duaterra's fort, and being joined by the chief himself, we were received with his usual friendly attention. The flag which he had hoisted in honour of us, displayed itself on the summit of this curious garrison, and formed a singular contrast of civilized pageantry to the grotesque devices of untaught barbarism. After inspecting the fortress, in which there was nothing very particular to detain our attention, Mr. Marsden and myself proceeded to pay our respects to the queen, and found her majesty busily employed in making a mat; an unseemly task, the reader may suppose, for the wife of a sovereign prince, but one which her royalty did not despise. She appeared a complete adept in the whole process of weaving; and it was curious to see with what dexterity and quickness she handled the threads, and disposed them all in their proper order. The mat she was making was one of an open texture, and not being

acquainted with the use of the shuttle, she performed her work with wooden pegs stuck in the ground at equal distances from each other; to which having tied the threads that formed the woof, she took up six threads with the two composing the warp, knotting them carefully together. Though nothing could have been more simple than her loom, it was astonishing how well executed was her performance; and I have now in my possession some specimens of their close weaving, which are highly creditable to their ingenuity. In their open mats the warp is generally about an inch apart, and the texture of the close ones resembles coarse canvas as nearly as possible; the flax, however, of which they are made, has a much finer gloss and more silky appearance than that grown in Europe.

I must here observe, that while we were on shore, the wives of the missionaries came also to pay a visit to her majesty, having landed for the exclusive purpose, and were all very graciously received. There was nothing remarkable in the etiquette of their introduction, the ceremonials consisting of some curtsies and nods on their part, and a few ludicrous gesticulations from the queen.

who gazed on such visitors with ineffable astonishment.

Being no less pleased with our reception on this than on the preceding day, we returned to the ship, and next morning, December 24th, we witnessed a most showy display of New Zealand splendour. We descried at an early hour a fleet of canoes, crowded with men, making towards the ship, and on their nearer approach recognized our friends Korra-korra, or Governor Macquarie, as he would now be called, and Tui, who, standing up in their canoes with the other chiefs, were brandishing their spears and shouting out their song of defiance.

Our surprise was a good deal excited on seeing the Governor attended by so large a convoy, but we soon discovered that he came in state, in pursuance with a previous understanding between himself and Duaterra, who wished him to bring all his warriors, and make as imposing an appearance as possible, that we might see the full extent of his authority, and also receive this tribute of respect from so important a personage. It had been likewise agreed between them, that for our entertainment, his warriors should oppose those of Duaterra, in a sham-fight;

and the day very fortunately being serene and beautiful, we anticipated the highest amusement from this interesting spectacle.

The approach of the canoes to the ship was marked with a wild grandeur of the noblest description, and it was impossible to behold the scene without being impressed with the force of its distinctive sublimity. The different chiefs were all standing up with their war mats thrown gracefully over their shoulders, their hair neatly tied in a bunch upon the crown of the head, and ornamented according to the general fashion of their country with the white feathers of the gannet. Their attitudes and gestures, violently impetuous, as if intent on making an immediate attack upon the vessel, might strike the most resolute beholder with terror; and their fierce countenances, farrowed over with hideous punctures all deeply painted with a blue pigment, or quite black, gave a horrible identity to the savage display. The reader, who has never seen man in this state, can form no conception of him from the portrait I have attempted to draw, which falls infinitely short of the terrible appearance with which he presents himself.

The warriors who paddled the canoes

had taken off their war mats, that they might have the more freedom at their labour, and exerting their brawny arms without intermission, with their spears and other instruments of war placed beside them, they soon worked up along-side.

Korra-korra, the moment he came on board, was willing to shew that he remembered our good offices to him, and was sensible of the value of the presents we had made him, by bringing us some favours in return. I was the first person he approached, and coming up to me in the most friendly manner, he requested I would go with him into the cabin, that I might receive there the presents he had brought me, which consisted of two mats and a war instrument, called hennee, in shape something like a sergeant's halbert, curiously carved at the top, and surmounted with feathers. These I accepted with much pleasure, and Mr. Marsden having received a similar mark of his gratitude, we were both hurried by him into one of the canoes, and very soon paddled to the shore.

Immediately before we landed, the fleet of canoes being ranged abreast of each other, the chiefs recommenced their war song, and

were joined by the warriors, who stood up brandishing their paddles, and making furious gesticulations. Mr. Marsden and myself were careful in observing every occurrence, and we soon discovered that this was the signal for the sham-fight to begin. The longer they sung, the more violent grew their emotions, while one of Duaterra's warriors, running up and down along the beach with a long club made of whalebone in his hand, shook it at our party in token of defiance, and appeared daring them to leave their canoes. This menacing hero was suffered for some time to pass unnoticed, the fury of our warriors not being yet worked up to the proper pitch: however, it was not very long before this crisis arrived; the war song had now set every nerve in motion, and leaping on shore, impatient for the conflict, they pursued the insulting challenger, who took to his heels the moment they had landed. He retreated, however, only to join the great body of his brother warriors, who were posted in a valley, screened from our view by the skirts of the hill, and lodged as it were in ambuscade.

The general attack was now to commence, and our warriors rushed on with such im-

petuosity towards the valley, that we found it impossible to keep up with them. But here, in place of being the assailants, their impatient fury was anticipated, for Duaterra sallied forth with his whole band of intrepid followers, and made apparently a violent charge into the very midst of them. The wildest vociferations of savage clamour were now heard from both sides, and Duaterra's party being bravely repulsed for the moment, were pursued by their adversaries, who, with their lances and spears, seemed to threaten their total destruction. This advantage, however, they were not long able to maintain; while the others, rallying with vigorous intrepidity, wheeled round on their pursuers, and obliged them, in turn, to look for safety in retreat. This bloodless contest appeared for a long time doubtful, victory inclining at one period to Duaterra, and at another to his adversary; when, after various manoeuvres of New Zealand generalship, and much terrible fighting, though never dangerous, both sides resolved to put an end to their hostilities, in the same good humour with which they had commenced; and the opposite combatants, joining together in the dance, and war song,

brought their harmless strife to a friendly conclusion.

From this mock encounter, which was carried on, while it lasted, with impetuous activity, and was an exact representation of their real mode of fighting, we had an opportunity of estimating how formidable these savage warriors must always prove themselves in a serious conflict. Their general plan is, for each individual to single out his antagonist, with whom he engages in furious combat, and continues to fight till one or other of them falls; as neither has any idea of quitting the ground, while he has a drop of blood remaining, unless as the triumphant victor. They always throw the long spear before they come to close attack, when the battle axe and pattoo pattoo are alone employed.

The combatants, on both sides, were nearly equal in point of numbers, Duaterra having about two hundred, and Korra-korra not quite so many; but from the nature of the fight, in which they attacked and retreated, as the business of the entertainment required, and in obedience to their own free will, it was impossible to say which party would

prove superior in an actual engagement, the appearance of each being equally formidable. Duaterra's men were equipped like their adversaries, and had the same terrible peculiarities of disfigurement, while the two parties formed such an assemblage as the reader would hardly suppose could ever be found among his fellow mortals.

" – – – – – – So wild in their attire;
"That look'd not like th' inhabitants o' th' earth,
"And yet were on't."

Among those who distinguished themselves by peculiar intrepidity, and were foremost in every attack, I was a good deal surprised to see the Queen of Tippoonah, 7 Duaterra's lady, whose courage, on this day, was eminently conspicuous. This sturdy Amazon, dressed out in the red gown and petticoat she received from Mr. Marsden, and holding a large horse-pistol in her hand, appeared upon all occasions anxious to signalize herself; and superior to the timidity of her sex, displayed in the conflict the most undaunted spirit, rivalling the boldest man in deeds of heroism, and selecting for her an-

tagonist the most formidable she could find. But from the exertions of her majesty, both in the battle and war dance, or what may not be improperly termed, the play and afterpiece, her plump frame was quite exhausted, and she stood at the conclusion of the entertainment panting for breath, and reeking with perspiration. In this state she was pleased to notice me with a distinguished mark of flattering condescension, by holding out her lips for me to kiss, an honour I could have very well dispensed with, but which, at the same time, I could not decline, without offering a slight to a personage of such elevated consequence. Besides this dauntless Penthesilia, I observed likewise some other female warriors, who joined in the combat with much resolution, and following the example of their queen, exposed themselves in the thickest of the fight, to mimic dangers. From what I discovered, however, I found that it was not a general practice for women in this island to take the field; and that the passion for warlike prowess was only to be found among certain ladies of a more intrepid character than the rest.

The day was now pretty far advanced, and we were reminded by a keen appetite

that we had not as yet breakfasted; so, leaving the two parties dispersed in groups preparing their fires for cooking, we returned to the vessel.

Immediately after we had done breakfast, Mr. Marsden wishing to make the most of his time, took the boat and went back to the shore; and as he had not apprised me of his intention, I knew nothing about it till he had actually disappeared. On finding he was gone, I instantly resolved to follow him, and got into a canoe that was along-side, in which was the sister of one of our New Zealand sailors, a damsel who dispensed unlimited favours among our people, to whom she was well known by the name of Mary; and was interdicted from any intercourse with the vessel by order of Mr. Marsden. This frail wench was quite indignant at my friend's prohibitory regulations, which prevented her from bartering her charms with our sailors as before; and regarded the wives of the missionaries with "green-eyed" jealousy, believing them, in all probability, the sole cause of her exclusion. Her resentment was visible in her countenance, and she had even gone so far as to expostulate with Mr. Marsden on the injustice of the order he had

issued, telling him, that the New Zealand women were quite as handsome as those of Europee, and ought to be suffered as well as them to remain on board. Whether Mary supposed that I was a party to this order, and had therefore a spirit of revenge rankling at her heart against me, or was provoked at an inadvertent movement of mine in her narrow canoe, by which I was very near precipitating us both into the water, I know not; but when we had got within five or six hundred yards of the shore, she insisted I should get out and cow cow, (swim,) refusing to paddle any longer. I laughed at her unreasonable demand, and pointed to my clothes, to shew how ill-prepared I was to plunge myself into the water; but she remained firm to her purpose, and obstinately bent on getting me out, would take no excuse. In this dilemma I bethought myself of the surest method to molify her temper; and pulling out some fish-hooks which I happened very fortunately to have in my pocket, they operated at once like a talisman, and the sight of them was enough to make her the most tractable being in existence. She now paddled me on to the shore with smiling alacrity, and I am persuaded, that to obtain

the fish-hooks, she would have ferried me across the river Styx in defiance even of Charon himself, though that grim waterman had boldly asserted his exclusive privilege.

On my re-landing, I found Duaterra, with some of his people, busily employed in enclosing a piece of ground for a stock-yard; and suspending this useful labour for a while, he turned himself to one of a more noble description, which, as it originated entirely in the suggestions of his own heart, was the more gratifying to his friends, who could trace in it the finest testimonies of his inward worth. Anxious to give the earliest proof of his zealous co-operation in the views of Mr. Marsden, he managed, with some planks and an old canoe, to fit up a place where my friend might perform divine service; and the erection he contrived was an excellent substitute for a reading-desk. At a short distance in front of it were long planks supported like forms, for the Europeans to sit upon, and every thing was in a state of preparation for the ensuing day, when, for the first time, the voice of Revealed Religion was to be publicly raised in New Zealand.

This day, which was impatiently antici-

pated, soon arrived; and was rendered doubly sacred by being the sabbath, and also the anniversary of that day which gave birth to the Divine Redeemer of mankind. The missionaries, with their families and all the crew, except the captain, who remained on board to take charge of the ship, went on shore at an early hour; and the orderly deportment even of the sailors, who were generally so heedless of religious observances, bespoke the peculiar solemnity of the occasion. As soon as we had landed, Korra-korra drew up all his men and marched them rank and file into the enclosure, where the whole population of Rangehoo had assembled in expectation of our arrival. The chiefs were dressed in their regimentals, with their swords by their sides, and keeping their people in good order, awaited, with becoming silence, the commencement of the service. When we were all seated, Mr. Marsden, dressed in his surplice, ascended the place designed for him, which was covered over with the black cloth manufactured in the country, and began in a solemn and impressive manner the service for the day. The natives being ranged in a circle at a convenient distance within the enclosure, were directed by Korra-korra, with the flourish of

a cane which he held in his hand, to rise and sit down as we did; and he was not more exact in giving the signal than they were in attending to it. If he saw any of them inclined to talk, he tapped them on the head with his cane, and immediately enjoined silence; but he had seldom any occasion to employ it in this way, as they behaved in general with much more regularity than could be expected from such auditors. When the clergyman had finished the morning service, he addressed himself to his rude congregation, through the medium of Duaterra, explaining to them the great importance of what they had heard, which was the doctrine of the only true God, whom they should be all anxious to know and worship; and should therefore take all the pains in their power to understand the religion that was to be introduced among them. Duaterra was ready enough to act as interpreter in the communication of these "glad tidings;" but to several importunate questions from his countrymen, regarding the minute particulars of the subject, he made no other reply, than that they would be fully acquainted with them at a future time. Splendid temples and costly decorations are not always the most pleasing

to the Deity; and I should hope that the orisons thus offered up by a few Christians under the open air, and in the midst of their dark fellow-creatures, were as acceptable in his presence, as if poured out witb studied accents in the most magnificent cathedral.

The service ended, we left the enclosure; and as soon as we had got out of it, the natives, to the number of three or four hundred, surrounding Mr. Marsden and myself, commenced their war dance, yelling and shouting in their usual style, which they did, I suppose, from the idea that this furious demonstration of their joy would be the most grateful return they could make us for the solemn spectacle they had witnessed. It was not, however, without feelings of sincere pleasure at the promise afforded by this day, of the future success of the mission, that we stepped into the boat to return to the ship; and the chiefs, with their people, gave us every reason to hope that they might, at no distant period, become as civilized as they were brave, and as enlightened as they were hospitable.

As it now became necessary for the missionaries to lose no time in building their houses, and as the timber district lay at some

distance on the south side of the Bay, we weighed anchor on the morning of the 26th, and proceeded towards that place with the intention of procuring a supply. But before our departure, we set the natives to work in preparing materials for a temporary structure, which they engaged to erect, and for which Mr. Hall had marked out the ground. That there might be no delay in proceeding with the permanent buildings on our return, the smith and two labourers remained behind, to get up the forge and to burn charcoal.

After sailing about five leagues, we anchored in a spacious cove, at the head of which a beautiful river, called by the natives Cowa-Cowa, discharges itself through a winding channel. On this river the timber is floated down from the interior, and grows on the banks of it in great abundance. I was much pleased with this opportunity of taking so wide a survey of the island, and the ship having anchored on a sandy bottom in seven fathoms water, Mr. Marsden, Mr. Kendall, and myself, got into the boat, to visit a chief of considerable power, who ruled over the district where we expected to get our cargo. With this man the missionaries bad, on their

former voyage to the island, made themselves acquainted; and from his extensive authority on this side of the Bay, to cultivate his friendship was a measure that might be productive of solid advantages, and at all events was highly necessary.

We landed at the foot of a small village called Corroradikee, where we found this chief, whose name was Tarra, sitting on the ground, and looking, from his years, which were not less than seventy, and his easy and conciliating deportment, like some venerable patriarch in the midst of his people. He welcomed us in a manner that shewed how grateful our visit was to him, and evincing much affectionate cordiality, invited us to sit down beside him, after the ceremony of touching noses was concluded. He told us, he had been apprehensive we should leave the island without paying him a visit, and was evidently jealous of our intimacy with Duaterra, between whose tribe and his own there existed a considerable degree of enmity and rivalship. By some accident or other, he had lost the use of one of his eyes, but this had no effect on his temper, which was always cheerful; and there was a dignified serenity in his manner that was extremely

prepossessing. Wishing that we should partake of his hospitality, he ordered his cooks to dress some sweet potatoes, which he presented to us with his own hands, and would suffer no other person to take any out of the same basket, nor venture to touch them even after we had done; but directed his people to take them off to the boat, where they were to be deposited as a mark of respect. The ideas which this venerable chief had of courteous deference, were all his own; but many of them, nevertheless, were refined and appropriate.

The repast being over, we proceeded to view his crop of wheat, which he had raised from some seed that the missionaries had given him on their former visit, and we found it all in ear, and apparently in the most flourishing state of vegetation. I must here observe, that this island is highly favourable to the growth of all kinds of European grain, and it were much to be desired that a supply were sent out, as it would not only afford a superior food to the fern-root, but also excite the active industry of the natives.

Tarra, besides his head wife who was nearly as old as himself, had got another in the full bloom of youth, and extremely

handsome. This lady, whose face was familiar to all the English sailors that happened to touch here, went by one of those arbitrary names which they are so fond of assigning to women of her character; and was called by them Mrs. Goshore, a corruption, it would seem, of the words go on shore, and originating, perhaps, in some alluring request to that purpose on the part of the frail one herself. From the circumstance of having cohabited with a Captain Jones, the master of a vessel from Port Jackson, who had her on board with him for some weeks, she had picked up a good deal of our language, and become much attached to Europeans.

Besides the wheat which the missionaries had given to this chief, they left with him also a cock and a hen, some peas, and a few peach-stones. All these, except the cock and the hen, were in a fair way of increasing the stock; but the latter, for reasons I shall immediately notice, were not likely to leave any of their species behind them. Mrs. Goshore conducted us to the small enclosure where the peas had been planted, and the greater part of them were shooting out in full blossom; while in the same spot there was growing a fine young peach-tree, which looked

quite healthy and vigorous. She gave us a curious account of the cock and the hen, which, it appeared, had been banished from the village, and sent further up the country, for "high crimes and misdemeanors." The offence which caused the expulsion of the hen, was, that she had forsaken the eggs she had laid, while in the act of hatching them; but this was certainly occasioned by the natives themselves, whose restless curiosity would not let the poor thing remain at ease for a moment, but were continually wanting, as Mrs. Goshore told us, to tickee tickee (see) the eggs; till plagued with their vexatious annoyance, she abandoned the nest altogether. The cock 8 was a much more heinous delinquent, as no place would satisfy him for his roost but the top of a small building which was tabooed, and of course made sacred against the profane touch of all animals, winged or not winged. Here he regularly perched himself, in impious contempt of the awful prohibition, and to the great scandal of the indignant beholders; who, after having driven

him repeatedly from the mystical edifice, while he as often returned to it, determined at length, as the just punishment of his contumacious sacrilege, to send him into exile.

We now returned to the old chief, and found him weeping, together with two women, over Tommy Drummond, whom, in our absence, they recognized as a distant relative. Nothing can be more natural than to weep from excessive joy; but as there was no close alliance between the parties in the present instance, and as there never had existed any endearing recollections of each other; I cannot take upon myself to determine whether the tears of Tommy's new relations flowed from the emotions of the heart, or came as a matter of course in obedience to the practice of the country. For myself, I should be inclined to doubt their sincerity; and Tommy, who shed some tears on the occasion, did so, not from the impulse of sympathy, but from a notion that he ought to conform to the prevailing custom of his native country.

Being much pleased with our visit to the venerable Tarra, and he equally so, we took our leave of himself and his ladies, inviting him at the same time to come to see us, which he readily promised to do on the first

convenient opportunity; and departing from his hospitable residence, we rejoined the ship at the mouth of the Cowa-Cowa.

It was on the following day after our return to the vessel, that a spectacle presented itself, the most wretched I ever beheld, and such as ought to be a warning to all offenders against the laws of their country, to forsake in time their abandoned pursuits; and learn, ere they fall into the hands of retributive justice, to observe those moral duties which, in the career of their delinquency, they have so long despised. Two men, whose feeble and emaciated bodies, sinking with famine, bespoke the very last extremes of human misery, came on board, and surrendered themselves to be taken back as prisoners to Port Jackson, having more the appearance of walking spectres than of material beings composed of flesh and blood. These unfortunate wretches were recognized by the missionaries as two convicts who had made their escape from the Active, in her last voyage to this island; having been previously transmitted to her from the James Hay, a vessel from Port Jackson, in which they had secreted themselves, and which, being then bound for England, touched at

the Bay of Islands at the same time with the Active, when the fugitives were discovered. The captain had them delivered up to the missionaries to be taken back to the colony; but rather than be obliged once more to visit the place to which their crimes had first doomed them, they were willing to attempt any enterprise, however precarious or desperate. Having therefore contrived to get away from the ship, they ran into the woods, with the view of depending for their support on the casual hospitality of the savage natives, as they had been disappointed in returning to that country whose protection they had forfeited.

But in their expectations of a friendly reception among the New Zealanders, they were very much deceived; and their hideous state of nudity, having only the remains of an old mat tied round the waist, which served but to make their misery still more apparent, and the death-like paleness that each of them displayed in his ghastly countenance, afforded the plainest evidence of the sufferings they had endured. For this state of deplorable wretchedness they were, however, very ill-prepared, considering the sedentary pursuits in which they had been engaged before their malpractices had banished them

from England; one having been a tailor in London, and the other a shoemaker. Being curious to learn what sort of treatment they had experienced among these people, that could have reduced them to a condition so painful to behold; we found, on inquiry, that it had been such as might reasonably be expected, and that no charge of inhuman severity could be imputed to the natives, as, by their own account, they had been in a great measure themselves instrumental to their miseries. A reward being offered by the missionaries for their apprehension, the people became aware of their characters, and also of the crimes for which they had been transported, (theft;) and this, though it had not the effect of getting them taken, excited against them a considerable degree of prejudice. Though many of the New Zealanders make no scruple to steal whenever they have an opportunity, yet, by a strange anomaly, tungata tihi, or thief, is a term of the greatest reproach among them, no epithet being considered more disgraceful. In addition to this, the fugitives not being willing to work, but flattering themselves with the idea that, as white men and Europeans, they would be looked up to by the rude natives as beings of

a superior order; and living by the industry of others, could spend their time in exalted laziness, while even the chiefs would come to offer them the tribute of their profound respect; had by such vain expectations only deceived themselves, and made their miseries more certain. This delusive presumption tending but to make them completely obnoxious, by increasing in every mind the prejudice already existing against them; they soon found that all the hopes they had so fondly indulged, were chimerical; and that they must either work for their bread like the meanest of the natives, or suffer all those privations which they afterwards experienced. The chiefs told them very plainly, that if they worked but little, they should have but little to eat, ittee ittee workee workee, ittee ittee kiki; and not choosing to accommodate themselves to active exertion, and dreading, from the temper of the natives, who had been provoked by their unseemly arrogance, that they might be inclined to put them to death, and make a meal of their bodies; they thought it best to withdraw from the place, and retiring to a solitary cave, lived there by themselves, subsisting upon the fern-root and whatever else they could procure,

But while they remained here, the same alarming terrors of being attacked and murdered were continually before them; and rather than be subject any longer to such a state of terrible suspense, they preferred coming out from their seclusion, and throwing themselves on the protection of Tupee, the brother of Tarra, who possessed sufficient authority with the natives to defend them from the violence they apprehended. This chief received them with much kindness, and did not hesitate to guarantee their safety; but stipulated at the same time that they should not be idle. They were therefore obliged to work at whatever employments he thought proper to allot them, and suffered very frequently from the malignant dislike in which they were held by the cooks, who took every opportunity of withholding the portion of food that had been ordered for them by Tupee. When the chief himself happened to be present, they always had enough, and their food consisted of dried fish, potatoes, and fern-root, but chiefly of the latter. The natives, though having plenty of pigs, never killed any, except on some few particular occasions; and the fern-root, as a staple article of diet, had entirely superseded

every other. Tupee used to take the fugitives with him to work at a farm he had in a remote part of the interior, and they were ready to acknowledge, that his treatment to them in these excursions was always humane and liberal. The tailor, however, fared much better than his companion; for, having very luckily brought a pair of scissars with him in his flight, he made himself generally useful to the natives, by acting as hair-cutter to the whole tribe; a service which, though it could not obliterate his offence, raised him in their estimation considerably above his fellow-convict, and procured him very often some partial indulgences.

But these wretched men, on their getting on board, did not seem to have experienced the least difference of treatment, for both were equally miserable in the figure they presented; and I sincerely wished at the time, that every youthful profligate in London and elsewhere, had an opportunity of seeing them.

Mr. Kendall was well acquainted with the father of one of these unhappy victims of juvenile depravity, a respectable and wealthy tradesman in London. I remember myself to have seen him, while we were lying at

Spithead, come on board the Spencer convict ship, to take leave of his unfortunate son, with all the anguish of an afflicted parent depicted in his countenance. Thus it is that vice not only entails inevitable calamity on the wretch who pursues it, but extending its baneful effects to the innocent, causes many a virtuous heart to feel the most poignant sufferings; while the ties of kindred, too strong to be broken by disgrace, are for ever after held together in shame and in sorrow.

7 Tippoonah is the district of which Rangehoo is the capital.

8 The Author would secure before-hand the indulgence of the critics, whose cynical asperity, he trusts, will not, from any association of ideas, consider this a Cock and a Bull story; as he assures them it has truth for its foundation.

CHAPTER VIII

CHAP. VIII.

The Author and his friends proceed to the principal timber district on the Cowa-Cowa – Visit the chief Tekokee – Description of him – The forests and surrounding country described – Curious practice with regard to thieves – Tarra, Mrs. Goshore, and Tupee, found on board by the Author and his party on their return – Character of Tupee – Trees and shrubs – The climate better than that of New South Wales – Excursion to visit the chief Warrakee – Fisheries – Fish plentiful, and their manner of dressing it – Excellent situation for a settlement – Desire of the missionaries to establish themselves there – Opposed by Mr. Marsden – The chief Pomaree visits the Active – His character – Excursion to Wycaddee – Specimen of New Zealand wit – Ingenuity of the children – District of the chief Wiveeah – Obliging disposition of the natives – Some forests visited.

Having in our visit to Tarra's district secured the friendship of that chief, a most important measure, our next object was to proceed up the Cowa-Cowa, to the part of the island where timber is found in the greatest abundance. It was therefore determined that Mr. Marsden and myself, together with Mr. Kendall and Mr. Hall, should set out without loss of time, in order to engage the natives to cut down as much timber as would be necessary for our purpose, and bring it by

the usual conveyance to the vessel. We rowed to the head of the cove, which is about five miles from the place where the ship was lying at anchor, and is navigable to this distance for small vessels, and then came to some extensive flats, which though inundated with the tide, are always dry at low water, except the small channel through which the Cowa-Cowa discharges itself into the cove. We now entered the open river, and rowing up along its smooth surface for about ten miles, the scenery on either side was bold and attractive. On whatever part we turned our eyes, a rich and romantic prospect invited our attention, and the river, taking a serpentine course, offered to our view at every new turning, a delightful variety of picturesque images. The tide, which rises in this river about four feet, might render it navigable to some distance for small craft, were the fallen timber cleared away, with which its channel is occasionally obstructed; a work, I should think, of no great labour, though of obvious utility in the event of a more regular intercourse with the island. If the accounts given by the natives can be credited, this romantic stream might be sailed up almost to its source; but this I very much

doubt, though timber comes down in rafts from remote parts of the interior.

The principal chief in this part was Tekokee, to whom the district belonged, though he was in some degree tributary to Tarra. Landing on the 27th, at a small village not dissimilar to that in which Tarra resided, we met with two young men, who readily undertook to conduct us to the chief; and after walking over some flat and marshy ground for about a mile, we ascended a hill, on the summit of which he was seated, with several of his people around him, who all behaved with much apparent respect. Like Tarra, he received us with manifest symptoms of pleasure and good-will, though his manner possessed not those engaging demonstrations of native politeness, which in that venerable chief were so clearly discernible. His demeanour, however, was firm and convincing, and his ingenuous countenance, the very index of sincerity, afforded the strongest proofs that nature had never intended it to reveal the subtle machinations of a designing heart. Nothing was to be seen in it that could in the least degree indicate either fraud or deceit, but the opposite qualities of honesty and candour were plainly legible to every

beholder. In his person he was more robust than any man I had yet seen, and all his limbs displayed a perfect correctness of symmetry, evincing at the same time the greatest capability of laborious exertion. His broad shoulders were covered with a large skin of different coloured furs, and his tall figure, bold as it was stately, and perfect as it was commanding, might have supplied even to Phidias, had it existed in the days of that celebrated artist, a model not unworthy his inimitable powers. The chief, before we ap- prised him of the object of our visit, was already aware of it, having learned by some means that we wanted to buy timber of him; and addressing us on the subject, he told us there was nuee nuee racow, (plenty of wood,) and promised. very willingly to shew us where we could be supplied.

In the neighbourhood of his village were some large plantations of coomeras and potatoes, but these we had no curiosity to visit, having already seen enough of them to put us in possession of their mode of agriculture, which, in another part, I shall take an oppor- tunity of explaining to my readers. The adjacent land was generally level, and the

soil, with the exception of the marshy parts, most excellent.

Being accompanied by Tekokee, we re-entered the boat, and proceeded about two miles further up the river, till we came to where it divided itself into two branches; when getting out to enjoy an excursion on foot, we walked along the banks through a thick grove, which lined it on that side as far as the eye could reach. The underwood was here in such quantities, and so entangled with the trees, that a passage through it would have been utterly impracticable, had not the natives taken the pains to clear a path, which ran along through various intricate windings. The timber in this grove was not large, nor could I observe any trees of the pine species, though there were several that appeared of an excellent quality, and many of them I thought would supply very good materials for turnery in particular.

Leaving this side of the river, we got into a canoe, and crossed over to the opposite bank, where we entered a noble forest of pines, growing to the height of eighty and a hundred feet, before they branched out, and all of them as straight as if they had been

shaped by nature, for no other purpose than to shew her regularity. There were none of them more than six or seven feet in circumference, and being close to the river, could be floated down without any great trouble or expense.

We now engaged with Tekokee to set all his people to work at cutting down the trees, and giving him a large English axe, a present with which he was much gratified, we returned with him to his village, and thence repaired back again to the ship.

During this excursion, we were highly gratified with the friendly reception we met with from the natives, and with the general appearance of the country, which was every where remarkably beautiful. The land on the east side of the cove, rising in bold perpendi- cular eminences, connected with each other, and stretching along the whole extent in that quarter, forms as it were a natural wall, or rather a continued chain of fertile hills, producing on their sides a great deal of brushwood and small trees, with a rich covering of varied herbage. The prospect on the western side assumes a different appearance, but not less attractive; the land swelling up in curious hillocks, covered with shrubs and fern,

or extending in level plains of the richest verdure, and offering to the eye some of the most delightful spots that can be imagined. It were impossible for me to give my readers any thing like an accurate idea of the countless beautiful views that are to be met with in this island; and the part of it where we had now been, was not surpassed by any other in grandeur and variety. A noble river, smooth and transparent, winding for some distance its intricate course through a forest both gloomy and majestic; hills forming themselves into grand amphitheatres, or ascending, with impervious steepness, to a considerable elevation; valleys sinking down in the most picturesque recesses, and green fields opening on the view at the skirts of the forest; – these scenes, and many more, which I shall not here endeavour to enumerate, present themselves on either side of the Cowa-cowa; and I question if even the Arno can offer any that are more sublime and captivating. How anxiously did I wish, while contemplating these enchanting views, for the moment to arrive when civilization and well-regulated industry would take place of barbarism, and rational ideas supplant the gross delusions of superstition! To this happy period I looked, as I still do, with

impatient solicitude, feeling that so many of my fellow-creatures, who are now immersed in darkness, would then enjoy, as enlightened beings, those profuse bounties with which nature has supplied them.

We were exceedingly diverted on our return by the whimsical pranks of our new friend, Tippahee's nephew, who had accompanied us, and made himself extremely useful on the occasion. He assisted us in rowing the boat; but reflecting at intervals on the rank he held among his countrymen, which was that of a rungateeda, or gentleman, he would several times shake his head, and cry out against this indignity, by saying that he was "rungateeda, and that workee workee was no good for rungateeda, only for cookee cookee;" and then pretending he was not able to row any further, would apparently decline the labour: however, it was only to resume it with more spirit, and his objection was hardly uttered, when he plied on much harder than any of the rest.

On one of the highest hills, we observed a large cross similar to those which are so frequently met with in Catholic countries; and presenting rather an extraordinary ap- pearance in a nation of savages. Our young

friend readily satisfied our curiosity with regard to it, by telling us that it was erected for the purpose of exposing on it the dead body of a thief, as it was customary in the island, on putting such an offender to death, to wrap up the body in the clothes of the deceased, which, being thus buried, was suffered to remain in the ground only a few days; when digging it up, they fixed it upon this cross, as a warning example to deter others from a similar offence. In this practice we find no superstition, and it is only singular for its similarity to one which prevails among ourselves, that of hanging up dead bodies on gibbets. It would seem, from this curious circumstance, that the ideas of these people, respecting moral duties, are more defined than is generally supposed; and that a crime, which in civilized countries incurs the just punishment of the laws, is here liable to as severe a penalty; though I should suppose it must be under more aggravated circumstances, from what Tippahee said of the convict at Port Jackson.

On returning from our excursion, we were much pleased to find, as a visitor before us, our friend Tarra, who, true to his promise, came to pay his respects to us in turn.

He was accompanied by his young wife, Mrs. Goshore, whose fondling assiduities he preferred, at all times, to the less endearing attentions of his head spouse, who, being old and infirm as himself, could no longer secure that place in his heart which at a more early age she had obtained. Mrs. Goshore, notwithstanding all her irregularities, had the art of preserving the unabated affection of this old man; and studying upon all occasions the peculiarities of his humour, she was ardently beloved, and he never once imagined but the flame was mutual. His brother Tupee, the chief whom I have lately noticed in speaking of the two unfortunate convicts, had also come with him; and I was glad of the opportunity of seeing this man, from the accounts we received of him from the missionaries, who spoke very highly in his favour. Indeed, his treatment of the hapless wretches, who had confided themselves to his protection, might of itself create a good opinion respecting his disposition, while, at the same time, it shewed that his prudence was equal to his humanity.

During their visit, Tupee answered in the fullest extent all the expectations we had formed of him. He seemed particularly de-

sirous to cultivate our friendship, without however derogating in the smallest degree from his own consequence, of which he appeared perfectly sensible: and his demeanour was marked with a firm independence, though upon all occasions easy and conciliating. None of the chiefs that I had yet seen, even Duaterra himself not excepted, carried with them such an air of command and authority; and his countenance displayed as much expressive intelligence as I ever beheld in the face of any man, either rude or civilized. He was as tall as the generality of his countrymen, and his person elegantly formed, with great muscular strength, yet graceful and dignified, nor were his regular features disfigured with the tattooing, but left undisguised to display the varied passions of nature, as they were called forth on each particular occasion.

As we beheld the sides of the different coves, lined with trees of various descriptions, we were curious to examine them more closely; so on the following day, the 28th, Mr. Marsden and myself went on shore, taking with us Turreeogunnah, or Gunnah, as he was called by his countrymen for the sake of brevity, and the ship's carpenter.

The rich variety of natural productions that here lay open to our view, would have been a source of infinite delight to a person of more scientific attainments than myself, who, being extremely limited in botanical knowledge, could feel comparatively but little pleasure in looking at trees and shrubs, with whose classes and genera I was not acquainted. I shall notice, however, some of the few which I was enabled to distinguish. The first tree that fell under my observation was one that appeared to be a species of the banskia of New Holland, called by the colonists there the red honey-suckle, but of a much larger size than any I had seen in that country. Its wood was very similar to that of our beech, and might serve equally as well for all the purposes to which beech is applied. The mangrove is found in the low and marshy shores in great abundance, and is likewise considerably larger than in New South Wales. But I must not here omit one of the finest trees that we met with, though I am entirely unacquainted with its name and classification. It grows in common upon the sides of the coves, and extending its immense arms, covered with thick foliage, occupies a considerable space, and forms an admirable

shelter against the rays of the sun. It bears a fruit which the natives are very partial to, and which, when green, has an exact resemblance to an olive; when ripe, it turns yellow, but to our palates its taste was by no means pleasant. A kernel which it contains they prepare for eating in the same manner as they do their potatoes, and it is an unctuous consistence extremely ill-flavoured to an European. The leaves of this tree are of a dark green, being somewhat like those of the orange-tree in shape and colour. On the sides of the coves we also found another fruit tree, which the natives prize very highly. The fruit it produces is shaped like a cone, with a hot and spicy taste, rather pleasant than otherwise. The fern-tree, that ornament to the forest in these regions, was to be seen in many places growing with great luxuriance. The supplejack, a species of the cane, was very common; and as it intertwines itself with the trees, it offers considerable annoyance to people passing through them, by impeding their progress. This plant is very elastic, as may be inferred from its name, which is extremely appropriate. On the hills we saw some of the myrtle species, but the tea-plant, so common in Otaheite, and said to grow here,

and from which the natives of that island extract a spirituous liquor, we could not meet with in the progress of our excursion.

Of those trees which were generally to be met with, the pine was by far the most beautiful, and in height exceeded all the others beyond any degree of comparison. We observed two species of it, but the mountain-pine, called by the natives cowrie, which we found growing upon the sides and summits of the hills, and rising to an enormous size, was the most remarkable. Its bark is smooth, the leaves small and narrow, and it exudes an immense quantity of resin. Of this tree, which supplies most excellent timber, the natives make their canoes; and the wood, from its solidity and firmness, is extremely valuable for building. Another species of the pine, but much inferior to the one I have described, and the same that Captain Cook mentions as bearing a berry with a leaf like that of the yew, presented itself in great abundance upon the banks which bordered the sides of the cove, but its size was inconsiderable, and its wood knotty, and only fit for carpenter's work, such as window-frames, mouldings, &c. This tree is also found in Oyster Bay in Van Dieman's Land, where

it grows to the same height as it does here.

In the course of our survey, we met with very few flowers, and those that we happened to see, had nothing to recommend them, being neither beautiful nor fragrant. The profusion however of trees and shrubs, made ample amends for this deficiency, and shewed by their vivid colours and flourishing appearance, the superiority of this climate over that of New South Wales, where at the same season of the year, (the middle of summer,) vegetation is completely parched up, and the whole country presents one frightful scene of cheerless sterility.

On Thursday, December 29th, we made an excursion in a contrary direction, and went to visit a chief named Warrakee, who was said to be a personage of some consequence in that part of the island; possessing a large tract of land contiguous to the Bay, and having a great many people under his controul. While proceeding to this place, we saw some of the natives hauling to the shore an immense net, containing a quantity of snappers and other fish, which they readily agreed to exchange with us for a few nails, and seemed very happy that we should purchase.

These people are very industrious in attending to their fisheries, which are here numerous and well supplied; the coves in particular have a great abundance, and the right of fishing in certain places is recognized among them, and the limits marked out by stakes driven into the water. We observed several rows of these stakes belonging to the different tribes, each having respectively their prescribed boundaries, beyond which they durst not venture to trespass, without incurring the resentment of all the others, who would instantly punish them for any violation of the general compact. Their nets are much larger than any that are made use of in Europe: they make them of the flax in its undressed state, and one of them very often gives employment to a whole village. The coves and harbours abound in fish, which they are very careful in laying up for their winter store, by cutting it open from the head to the tail, taking out the back-bone, and exposing it in the sun to dry.

We landed not far from the village which was the capital of Warrakee's district, but this chief was not at home to receive us, having gone some days before into the interior. We found here one of our sailors

who was named after Warrakee, to whose tribe he belonged, and had come before us to visit his relations. This man was surrounded by a crowd of the natives, who all claimed kindred with him; but as our appearance presented greater novelty, we soon found ourselves encompassed by the whole assemblage. Their behaviour, however, was not troublesome or obtrusive, and they cheerfully assisted us in making a fire and dressing our fish, which my friend, as well as myself, relished with a good appetite. Their mode of cooking it was extremely simple. 9 After cleaning the fish very carefully, they thrust a stick through it, which being stuck in the

ground near the fire, sustained it till one side was roasted, when, the stick being drawn up, and the other side applied in the same manner till it was sufficiently done, the whole process was finished.

Having taken our refreshment, we walked over a large extent of level ground directly opposite the entrance of the harbour, and offering one of the most inviting situations of any that we had yet seen for building a town upon; and will, I doubt not, should the mission succeed, be eventually its principal settlement. The missionaries evinced a strong desire to fix themselves here in preference to Rangehoo, where the ground being so hilly and steep, the extent of their agricultural labours must necessarily be circumscribed, and confined to a few interjacent spots. But Mr. Marsden was averse to this measure; judging very properly, that they should rather consult their sphere of usefulness to others, than that circle which would be most advantageous to themselves. Besides, he thought it better, even from prudential motives, that they should be established in the midst of an extensive population so devotedly attached to them, than insulated among a few tribes, whose good faith was not proved,

and whose friendship might be doubtful. Duaterra, who was of course much better acquainted with the disposition of his countrymen than we could be, agreed in this opinion; and I believe without any motive of self-interest, as he appeared always most anxious for the success of the undertaking. He said, that if they trusted themselves unprotected in this part of the island, the natives, incited by the cupidity of plunder, would very soon strip them of all they possessed, and might probably murder them, as their fidelity was not to be depended upon, when there was booty enough to offer a temptation to their avarice. They were always ready, he remarked, to take advantage of circumstances; "for," said he, "New Zealand man is no fool;" and were never to be trusted beyond the power of controuling them. Such was the character he gave of the tribes in this quarter; and it had the effect of perfectly reconciling the missionaries to the more secure and friendly district of Rangehoo.

On our return to the village, we met with the son and daughter-in-law of Warrakee, Tittoohee and Wranghee, a remarkably handsome couple, who seemed very affectionate

together. As we were walking along the beach, we were followed by a pretty-looking young woman, who complained to us in a strain of artless simplicity, and with a piteous tone of voice, that she had neither husband nor child, and that no man would have her, though she wished of all things to get married. It is thought no impropriety in this country for the lady to make the first advances, or even to grant favours before the marriage ceremony takes place; being, while single, considered exempt from all those restraints which delicacy imposes in civilized nations; but after marriage no privilege of this kind is allowed, as has been already shewn in the preceding part of this narrative.

Disappointed in not meeting with the chief for whom our visit was intended, we rowed to the head of the cove, where Gunnah told us there was a large waterfall. The place he mentioned was not far from the level ground, and we found there such a powerful fall of water as would, in the event of the natives being civilized, be capable of working the largest machinery, and which thus might be made exceedingly valuable. In approaching the head of the cove, we discovered

a natural wall, about a hundred feet long and sixteen feet deep, over which flowed a river that came from some distance in the interior, and discharged itself into the bay. This river, from its appearance, was never flooded; its stream being neither deep nor rapid, but flowing gently along in a smooth and regular manner. But as there was, nevertheless, a great body of water in consequence of its breadth, which, on pacing it at a little distance from its mouth, I found to be one hundred and forty feet, the channel might be narrowed and the current thus regulated according to the power required. A fall of water like this, so admirably adapted for various purposes, such as mills for grinding corn or sawing timber, would, at Port Jackson, be a certain fortune to its possessor. When the tide is at its height, there is a depth of water from six to seven feet, that rises close up to the wall, sufficient for large craft to come along-side.

Though missing one chief, we found another before us on our return to the ship. This man, whose district lay at some distance off, was the person who had supplied the vessel, when she was here before, with nearly all the timber she brought back, and was well known

to the missionaries. They described him as very artful and covetous, but one who at the same time might be extremely useful. He appeared quite the man of business, all his ideas being completely absorbed in plans of procuring tokees and axes. A short time before we met with him, he had changed his name, 10 calling himself Pomaree, merely because he heard that was the name of the great king of Otaheite. This chief offered to supply us with all the timber we should want, and was very anxious to be exclusively employed on the occasion.

Next morning, the 30th, at an early hour, we had a canoe along-side with some large pigs for sale, brought by one of the petty chiefs; but as Mr. Marsden had by this time distributed all his tokees and axes in presents, he had none left for traffic: and the chief returned to the shore much dissatisfied and chagrined. This circumstance would not

be worth adverting to, were it not connected with one which is in some degree illustrative of the character of these people, and shews their propensity to avail themselves of any expression on which they can exercise their wit, or in other words, their fondness for punning.

After the chief had left us, we took the boat in order to explore some of the numerous coves that are to be met with in this extensive harbour; and rowing up one of them, we discovered some neat looking huts built close to the shore, surrounded by plantations and a beautiful grove of large umbrageous trees. Struck with the appearance of the scene, we immediately landed to enjoy a nearer view of it; and were not a little surprised at finding, that the village and environs which we so much admired, belonged to the chief who had been with us a short time previous to our leaving the vessel, and who was now before us in the midst of his people. His ill-humour at not meeting with a market for his pigs, had vanished by this time, and he appeared to have recovered his usual good temper; giving us a cordial reception, and not seeming to think of his disappointment. Offering to accompany us

to Wycaddee, a large village at some distance in the interior, we readily consented to the proposed excursion; and getting into our boat himself, he was followed by thirty-three of his people in six canoes. The New Zealanders have a custom, while paddling their canoes, to cheer and animate each other to exertion at stated intervals, by shouting out simultaneously the words, Toheehah heeohah, etokee etokee; and they regulate the movement of their paddles with regard to the depth of water in which they are to put them, and the rate the canoe is to proceed at, whether fast or slow, by each of these words. All this is done with such methodical exactness, and such wonderful unison of the paddles, that it would be supposed there was but one soul to give impulse to the entire of them. I often used to amuse myself with calling out these inspiring words, particularly whenever I saw them slack in their exertions; and as I was this morning repeating the words etokee etokee, the chief, in allusion to our having no tokees to purchase his pigs with, cried out after me, "no tokee, no tokee, no porkee, no porkee," laughing heartily at his own wit; while my friend and I gave him credit for being an excellent punster.

The children of the natives displayed before us a specimen of their ingenuity as we rowed along the cove, in a curious imitation of our ship, the Active, made in wicker-work. They had fitted up their little bark as nearly after the plan of the model as possible; she had a bowsprit and two masts, with ropes connected to them, while the builders, having now launched her into the water, were proving the success of their labours, and seemed quite happy at the result. This strong proof of the imitative genius of these people was the more pleasing to us, as being found in the children, who thereby gave us every reason to augur favourably of their future improvement; and the reflection was highly gratifying, that they might, as they grew up, copy with similar industry all those arts of civilized life, which the missionaries were to introduce among them. The germs, which were strong, we trusted, would soon begin to put forth, and advance progressively, till they developed themselves in a rich crop of intellectual acquirements.

Proceeding about eight miles up the cove, which was nearly twelve in length and not quite one mile in breadth, we came to some extensive plains, over which was a narrow

and very shallow passage: here the entrance to the river Wytanghee opened itself, being navigable for boats only at high water. We went up this river about two miles, and found the land on both sides very marshy but level all the way. We landed at a short distance from a village called Wycaddee, which belonged to Wiveeah, a chief of considerable authority in this quarter, but subordinate to old Tarra. Desirous of an interview with this man, we inquired for him at his residence, but found him not at home; his relations, however, were obliging and friendly, and offering to shew us some large forests of excellent timber, we accompanied them to the place where they stood. As we left the village, we crossed over some plantations of coomeras and potatoes, which were neatly cultivated, and had stiles at convenient distances, with a regular path-way running through them, such as might be seen in a field in England. After surveying the first wood we came to, in which the pines, though very tall, were not so gross as those we had before seen, we crossed the river Wytanghee, the natives carrying us through the water on their backs, and came to a large flat of swampy ground, where, from the mire and water which rose

above the ancles, a clean passage was impracticable. I still continued on the back of the person who brought me through the river, as he very obligingly offered to prolong his services, and carried me over with much good humour; laughing the whole way, and pretending occasionally, for the sake of amusement, to throw me into the swamp, of which, however, I was not in the least afraid; as I knew he only wanted to make himself merry, by indulging in a harmless frolic at the expense of my fears. Giving my fowling-piece in charge to another of the natives, I was now completely in their power, so that had they any disposition to prove treacherous, the opportunity could never have been more favourable, as I had no means of offering the least resistance. But these friendly souls had no idea of abusing the confidence I reposed in them, and I found them on this, as on every other occasion, both faithful and obliging.

Having reached the end of the marsh, we came to a small village surrounded, as most of them are, by plantations of coomeras. The inhabitants, many of whom had never till this moment laid their eyes upon a white man, thronged round us, with all those

marks of eager curiosity, which I have detailed in another part of this work; and we were desirous to afford them every opportunity of surveying us from head to foot.

The principal forests mentioned by our conductors, lay at a short distance from this village, where the pines were of an amazing height, and the timber extremely valuable. The facility of floating down the trees was here very great, and the situation presented many advantages for a flourishing settlement.

9 Mr. Savage, in his brief Account of this Island, gives a different description of the mode of cooking: fish, which, as it is curious, I shall here insert; though it has never fallen under my observation.
"The fish being cleaned, is enclosed in a quantity of leaves of the cabbage, and bound about with tendrils; it is then laid upon a stone that has been previously heated, upon which it is occasionally heated, so that the steam extricated from the leaves serves the purpose of boiling water. The leaves being taken off, the fish is found to be well cooked and unbroken. I have tasted them cooked in this manner by the natives, and thought them excellent. They probably would not have recourse to this method, had they any way of boiling water among them; but, however, it was an admirable substitute. The greens forming the immediate covering of the fish, are eaten with it."-Savage's Account of New Zealand, p. 60.

10 The New Zealanders frequently change their names, and are very capricious in their motives for doing so. This we have witnessed in the case of Korra-korra, whose name, as it signifies throat in their language, had been probably adopted from the same whimsical notion that induced him to change it for that of Governor Macquarie. His brother Tui, likewise, who had the name of a bird very common in New Zealand, might have assumed it from similar caprice.

CHAPTER IX

CHAP. IX.

Return to Wycaddee – Jealousy and discontent of Wiveeah – Description of a village and the adjacent scenery – A leper – Alarm and curiosity of the natives – Tommy Drummond met by his mother; their affecting interview – An interesting family – Gunnah takes leave of the Author and his friends, and returns to Rangehoo – His services very useful – Visit of Korra-korra and a party of his friends, including his uncle, the chief Bennee – The Author and Mr. Marsden return with them on shore – Progress of their excursion – Prevented from going to Korra-korra's residence, and invited by Bennee to visit his own district, which is agreed to – Bennee's hippah, or garrison – Singular superstitious – Ridiculed by the Author, and defended by Tui – Disagreeable night spent – Occasional remark on the plantations – Arrival at an agreeable village, plentifully supplied with provisions – Extraordinary and disgusting voracity – The party, with the Author, return to the vessel – Traffic with the natives commenced.

Returning to Wycaddee, we found Wiveeah sitting upon the roof of a house, which is frequently done by the chiefs, with the view of signifying in this manner their elevated dignity above the rest of their people.

He received us in very bad humour, and it appeared to us as if the chief, who accom-

panied us to his district, and who not joining us in our excursion to the forests, remained behind, had in our absence excited in his mind some suspicions as to the object of our visit. We found them both in conversation together on our return, and we had every reason to suppose that we were not wrong in our conjectures. Wiveeah told Mr. Marsden, with evident signs of jealous resentment, that we had shewn a predilection for Tarra and Tupee, by giving axes to each of them, while we neglected himself; and spoke with such a tone of indignant anger, as plainly shewed how much we had provoked him by this supposed preference. Mr. Marsden, anxious to pacify him, began to remonstrate, by telling him that he had known the others first; but, that if he would come on board the vessel, he would not only give him an axe, but also some seed wheat, the nature and use of which he explained to him. These promises, however, were not sufficient to appease him, and the most effectual lenitive was the large axe belonging to the ship, which, as we happened to have it with us, Mr. Marsden consented to give him, though parting with it was a great inconvenience, as it would be some time before the smith could be in readiness to make another. This

present immediately put him into better humour, and he became by degrees more gentle and placable, till at length he was perfectly reconciled with us, and expressed an ardent desire for some of our countrymen to settle in his district.

Leaving Mr. Marsden and Wiveeah in conversation together, who were by this time on excellent terms, I proceeded to take a survey of the village, and attracted as I walked along, a gaping crowd of astonished spectators. The children were here, as in many other parts that I observed, extremely desirous to arrest my attention; each little group crowding round me with emulative impatience. I was pleased and diverted with their eagerness, and did every thing in my power to convince them all, individually, that they were noticed by the packaha; and those who first happened to catch my eye, and to whom I addressed myself, appeared quite delighted.

The situation of this village is one of the most beautiful I have seen in New Zealand, and deserves to be particularly described. It is built upon the banks of the Wytangee, which are about fifteen or twenty feet above the level of the water, and many of the huts are constructed in such a

manner, as to have a very pleasing effect. I observed some which verged upon the extreme edge of the bank, having on the opposite side, an agreeable prospect of a large enclosed field, with the appearance of an English meadow. Beyond this field the level ground disappears, and the hills rising gradually one above another, display with interesting contrast, the wild luxuriance of the fern, and the picturesque grandeur of the towering pine. The river is about forty or fifty feet wide, and the water as clear as chrystal, reflecting the polished pebbles over which it flows, and exhibiting on its banks a profuse variety of beautiful shrubs; while from its bosom, numberless flocks of curious birds are continually emerging, and still hovering on either side, blend with the scene, and enliven with their gay plumage the sombre shades of the distant forest. The huts in this village were built of the same materials as in the other parts of the island, and were generally of the same dimensions, excepting the hut which was the residence of the chief, and this was the largest I had yet met with; measuring twenty-seven feet by eighteen, and nine feet in height. The doorway was not more spacious than that of any

other hut, but it was decorated with some curious devices of rude sculpture. Adjoining the village, were some well cultivated plantations of potatoes and coomeras; and these, with the other external appendages belonging to the huts, are generally the most interesting sight, there being nothing worthy of observation in the inside. It is singular how great is the difference of improvement between the rude structures themselves, and those neat plantations with which they are surrounded. In the former, we see nothing but the most convincing indications of the savage state of the inhabitants; while in the latter, we frequently perceive so much regularity and order, that were we to require no other test, we should suppose these people to be quite as much civilized as ourselves. The nice precision that was observed in setting the plants, and the careful exactness in clearing out the weeds, the neatness of the fences, with the convenience of the stiles and path-ways, might all of them have done credit to the most tasteful cultivator in England; and while I beheld and admired them, I could not help fancying myself at the moment, in my own happy country.

In the enclosure before one of the huts.

I saw a fine young woman sitting on the ground, with a new-born infant lying beside her; her husband, who was a rungateeda, and who had two other wives besides this lady, told me the infant was only two days old, and the mother, though having so recently experienced the sufferings of childbirth, looked as jolly and strong as if nothing had occurred. Among the children, I observed a boy about twelve years old, who was born with a leprosy; his skin was white and scaly, his eyes half closed, and his eyebrows as white as those of an old man: his features were most unsightly, and his whole appearance particularly disgusting. He was the only instance of this hideous disease that I ever met with in the island, so I should suppose it is not a prevalent one among the natives. The population of this village was comparatively large, being not less than one hundred and fifty souls, which was a good number for so inconsiderable a place. It was amusing to see what wild astonishment the report of a shot produced among the assembled crowd. Firing with my fowling-piece, at a bird that had settled on an adjacent tree, I happened to kill it, and this instantly threw the whole village, men.

women, and children, into violent confusion; who, knowing not how to account for the seeming phenomenon, testified the appalling effect it had upon them, by setting up a tremendous shout, and astounding my ears with their uproar. While in the act of shewing them the bird I had killed, which they examined very attentively, perceiving another on the same tree, I fired at this also, and brought it down; which occasioned a repetition of their amazement, and made them vociferate even louder than at first. I shewed my shot-bag to one of the old men, but the sight of it terrified him so much, that he durst not venture to take a second glance at it; and turning away his head in the greatest trepidation from this magazine of death, I am persuaded he entertained worse notions of it, than ever were imagined of Pandora's box. But my watch was a much more pleasing spectacle, and gratified their curiosity, without exciting their fears. Every one was impatient to have a peep at it, but the ticking was so wonderful to their conceptions, that they believed it to be nothing less than the language of a god; and the watch itself, being looked upon as the Etua, was regarded by the whole of them with profound reverence.

Bidding adieu to Wiveeah, we got down to the beach, but it being low water, we could not depart, and were obliged to wait three hours before the tide was high enough. To divert this time away, I took my friend Gunnah, whom I always found a mirthful attendant, and went to the opposite shore, expecting to get a shot at some wild ducks; but unfortunately they were so very shy it was impossible to come near them, being alarmed on the slightest approach. They were, however, very numerous, and this was still more provoking, as it only aggravated my disappointment. It was quite dark before we reached the ship, and we found our appetites well prepared for some refreshment after our excursion.

Tommy Drummond, 11 who had lately ex-

cited the sensibility of his new relations in Tarra's district, was, on the 31st, the object of more violent, and I presume, more sincere emotions. His poor mother, from whose pre-

sence he had long been estranged, hearing of his return to the island, hastened with all the impatience of maternal anxiety, to embrace her eon; and getting on board, she immediately recognized him, though he might well have out-grown her recollection, having left

her when a little boy, and being now advanced to the age of eighteen. Her joy at finding her child, (whom she believed to have been lost to her for ever,) once more restored to her sight, overpowered her too much for expression; and throwing herself at his feet, she embraced them with wild transports of delight, unable all the time to satisfy her feelings, while the full tide of a mother's love, which was swelling at her heart, burst forth in floods of tears, and the scene was so extremely moving, that no beholder could remain insensible to its poignancy. Tommy was deeply affected, and stood weeping over his mother, while she still clung to his feet without uttering a word. The strong claims of nature were never more visible than on this occasion; and the powerful sensations of parental attachment, were met by the reciprocal endearments of filial affection.

In a short excursion which we took on this day, we fell in with a family, living entirely by themselves, remote from any village, and in a perfect state of seclusion. It consisted of a man with his head wife, two subordinate ones, and three or four very fine children. The harmony and happiness in which they appeared to live together, their

content and cheerfulness, and the social cordiality that prevailed among them, were gratifying to behold; and our imaginations were carried back to those days of primeval simplicity, when every man lived quietly under his own vine, and enjoyed as his best riches, the innocence of his heart and the fruits of his industry. This peaceful family had much of the character of those patriarchal times; and strangers to all artificial wants, they supplied by their daily labour sufficient means for that simple mode of life which constituted their greatest happiness. Had such people but the light of true religion to guide and direct them, I should not hesitate to pronounce their state far happier than that of the most pageant elevation, preferring, as I always must, contentment to ambition, and the delicious sweets of easy competence, to the luxurious display of cumbrous superfluities.

"Man wants but little here below,
"Nor wants that little long."

Leaving this happy family, we walked into the interior, and ascending one of the highest hills, we enjoyed a fine view of the surrounding country. The land in this part

of the island presented the most singularly uneven surface I ever beheld: it consisted of an alternate succession of hills and valleys, and the best idea I can give my readers respecting it, is that of a sea violently agitated by a storm, and suffering instantaneous congelation in that state, by being arrested by a sudden frost. The hills, though of inconsiderable height, were so very steep as to preclude any cultivation on their sides; and the space between the valleys was so extremely narrow that none could be effected without the utmost labour and difficulty, and then only with the hoe. The soil, however, was in general very good, and in some places remarkably luxuriant; so that notwithstanding the unfavourable localities, it might be sown with grasses, or planted with the vine, to considerable advantage. We observed the land covered in most places with the fern, and this is considered the best indication of its fertility.

Calling on our return upon the secluded family, whose interesting situation was peculiarly distinctive, we found our boat's crew making themselves quite at home, the women beating and roasting the fern-root for them with much hospitality. They presented some

of it to us, but our vitiated palates could not relish their plain and wholesome diet; the sailors however, who were New Zealanders and Otaheitans, were not so squeamish, and they seemed to enjoy this simple fare with an exquisite zest. The advantages of civilization should certainly be very great to compensate for that subversion of unsophisticated habits which it generally effects; and for those luxurious cravings which it entails on a people who before were content with the most homely food. This reflection frequently occurred to me, while I beheld the smiling cheerfulness with which these children of nature sat down to their meal of fern-root.

The month of December had now ended, and the 1st of January was ushered in with all the rigour of that season in an European climate; though here it should be as beautiful as June. The rain fell incessantly, and it blew a perfect gale from east to west for nearly the whole day. This was the first time, since our arrival at the island, that we had any occasion to complain of the weather, or experienced the least disagreeable change But on this day all the elements appeared completely convulsed, and it was fortunate for us that the vessel, by the situation where

she lay, was perfectly secure from the storm; for if on the coast, she would in all probability have been dashed to pieces. Yet, though we were here what is nautically termed land-locked, still from the agitation of the waves, the ship was kept in continual motion, and the effect was so unpleasant to my friend and myself, that we preferred going on shore, and seeking a precarious shelter from the rain among the rocks, to remaining on board.

I must here observe, that on the preceding day, our faithful and sprightly friend Gunnah took his leave of us, and returned to Rangehoo. The poor fellow was much affected at separating from us, shaking hands with each of us in a most affectionate manner, and weeping bitterly all the time. But he consoled himself with the reflection that we should very soon leave this quarter, and revisit Rangehoo, where he would again have an opportunity of seeing us. As there was no apparent motive for his immediate departure, we rallied him on his not being able to live for a few days apart from his wife, (for he was married,) but he readily confessed that this was not his reason for leaving us; and the one he gave was puerile enough, – that

he wanted to get his hair cut. This young man had first come on board by the desire of Duaterra, to assist us, as he said, in our connections with the different tribes that we should have occasion to trade with; but I rather think he had other motives in view, and wished that he should give him information respecting the degree of intimacy that we might form with any of these tribes. It is certain that Gunnah, on his return to Rangehoo, received from him a severe beating for leaving the ship without his permission. But whether Duaterra studied his own or our interest, in causing this young man to accompany us, we were much pleased that he had done so, as we found him upon all occasions, not only an entertaining, but a most useful companion; explaining to us very satisfactorily many of the customs of his countrymen, and frequently acting as interpreter, having picked up a good many words of our language. We felt very much the loss of his services when he went away, not being able to manage our affairs with equal convenience as before.

The weather having cleared up on the 2d, the atmosphere resumed its usual serenity,

and every thing once more presented a cheerful appearance.

We were visited in the morning by the soi distant Governor Macquarie, accompanied by Tui, and his uncle Bennee, a formal old chief, who seemed fully impressed with a sense of his own importance. Accepting an invitation from his Excellency to visit his district, Mr. Marsden and myself got into a war canoe he had prepared for us, in which were five or six of his people, who paddled us to the head of a cove, a distance of about five miles from the ship. Landing us here, our friends hauled up the canoe on the beach, and took us over a narrow neck of land which separated this cove from another on the opposite side, where a canoe was to be in waiting to convey us to the residence of the Governor. Our way to this cove lay through some marshy ground, after passing which, we ascended some high land, overrun with fern of the most luxuriant growth, not less, generally, than six and seven feet in height; and the soil, we were informed by Korra-korra, was well adapted for producing wheat. In this he was perfectly correct, for it was uncommonly fertile,

and highly suitable to the purposes of cultivation. Arriving at the extremity of the marsh, and passing a small hill covered with, large masses of quartz, we crossed a little rivulet, and entered a wood, in which Captain Cook, as Bennee informed us, had cut down some timber on his visit to the island. He remembered the Captain, he said, perfectly well, and was a boy at the time he first saw him; when he went on board his ship, and was with him on several occasions. He did not, however, state any particulars respecting that enterprising navigator. Getting out of this wood, we came to some deserted huts, and to a plantation belonging to Korra-korra, in which was growing the wheat that the missionaries had given to him on their former voyage. Just as we were crossing the stile, Tui called out to us that the plantation was tabooed, and desired us not to enter it; but our curiosity to see how the wheat was thriving, made us slight this injunction, and we went in to examine it. We were much pleased with the appearance of the crop; the ears were full and large, and nearly ripe, but some few of them were black and infected; arising, most probably, from the place being encompassed with trees, which prevented a free circulation

of air. We now hastened down to the shore, in expectation of meeting with the canoe, but as the wind was blowing very hard, Korra-korra said that his people would be afraid to venture on the sea, and thought it most advisable for us to accept an invitation, which his uncle Bennee gave us, to visit his hippah, or fortified village. We were of the same opinion ourselves, and readily agreed to his proposal.

The opening of this cove we found to be close to the head of the harbour, and Bennee pointed out to us the identical spot where Captain Cook lay at anchor.

Our friends finding their appetites too keen for their patience, would proceed no further before they satisfied the cravings they experienced; and for this purpose, returned to the deserted huts, near to which they found some baskets of dried fish and fernroot, suspended from forked sticks driven into the ground. They immediately set about regaling themselves with this fortunate supply, and we were also very willing to meet with any thing that was palatable; our appetites, as well as theirs, being sharpened by the excursion, and not having brought any refreshment with us from the ship. But

notwithstanding we felt absolutely hungry, the food that was before us was too strong for our stomachs. The fern-root we could only taste, and though we tried to partake of the dried fish, we were soon obliged to give it up, from the quantity of disgusting maggots we perceived in every part of it. Not so our New Zealand companions; - they considered it a delicious treat, and were not a little surprised that we could not relish such fine kiki, (food,) as well as themselves. When the appetites of our party were completely sated, we set out for Bennee's place, and walked along the shore for about two miles, climbing occasionally the projecting rocks that lined the cove, and often getting a wetting from the spray that dashed against them. I observed that the stones about this cove were chiefly quartz, while those of the other coves I had met with, were all of them clay stones. When we got opposite to the hippah, Bennee hailed a small canoe that was in sight, which a boy soon paddled over to us. Into this frail machine, which was so unsteady and narrow that the least uneven motion would instantly overturn it, Mr. Marsden and myself entered; and were paddled over by old Bennee

himself, not without the most alarming apprehensions on the part of my friend, that we should be all overset, and consigned by this visit to a watery grave. Indeed, there were good reasons for his fears, though providentially no accident occurred; for, besides the danger from the canoe itself, there was a still greater, from a violent gale that was blowing all the time, and threatening every moment to sweep us into the devouring element. I cannot say, however, that I felt any considerable degree of alarm myself; I had the greatest confidence in the skill and management of old Bennee, and was persuaded that by sitting still 12 in the canoe, there would be no danger.

But the panic of my friend was soon over, for we landed in perfect safety close to a small village at the foot of a hill. On the top of this hill was built the hippah, to which the natives retire as a place of defence, whenever they are attacked by their enemies.

We were received on the shore by an old woman, a relation of Bennee, who stood there as we approached, repeating the friendly welcome of haromai, haromai, with many gesticulations. Immediately on our landing, we found three stages erected on the shore, and supported by posts about twelve feet from the ground. On these stages were placed a quantity of the dog-fish and stingray, which were drying there as a supply against the winter; and some very large nets that appeared to have been recently used, were spread out on stakes along the strand. We found very few people in the village, most of the inhabitants having gone in their canoes to procure flax. There was nothing remarkable in its appearance, consisting of a collection of huts, similar to those in the other parts of the island, but inferior to many of them in some respects. In passing through it I observed a pig-stye, in which a sow and her ten pigs were comfortably lodged, and the place kept extremely clean. As soon as the rest of our party were paddled over, we ascended the hill, one side of which was planted with coomeras, and crossing a wide moat where the industry of the natives had thrown up a mud bank,

we came to a regular mound, which served as a line of circumvallation to the town. This mound, like that at Rangehoo, was formed of stakes driven into the ground at certain distances from each other, and the work appeared remarkably compact and solid. To render the place still more inaccessible to the invading foe, they had cut away a great part of the side of the hill, so that the ascent was quite perpendicular, and to me it appeared impossible that the description of force which this garrison had to resist, could effect any thing against it: though I recollect Duaterra having told me that his countrymen made little of such fortresses, as they could scale the breastwork with an astonishing agility, and thus possess themselves of the town, if the party inside should happen not to be strong enough to repel the assault.

No place could have been better selected for this hippah than that where it stood, and the natives by their skill and industry, had materially improved its natural advantages. It was called Parro, and was the principal place in the district. There were not many houses here, nor was the population considerable; we were conducted to Bennee's

residence, which had no distinguishing mark from the rest, but its being somewhat larger. The first thing our friends did now, was to dress some potatoes, which they presented to us, and wished that we should eat them in the open air; but this we thought proper to decline, not choosing to expose ourselves to the heavy rain that was falling, and which lasted during the whole of the ensuing night. I have already informed my readers, that these people make it a rule never to take their meals in the huts appropriated for their residence, and this they not only religiously observe themselves, but enjoin strangers to do the same whenever they partake of their hospitality. Unwilling as we were to provoke their resentment, by any violation of their customs, however absurd and ridiculous, we should either have gone without the potatoes, which were now very acceptable to us, or eaten them at the expense of a good wetting, (there being no shed for that purpose;) if very fortunately, a projection from the roof of the house, of about three feet, had not afforded us a shelter, where we were enabled to take our repast. However, this indulgence was not suffered without many anxious scruples on the part of our friends, as they considered

our proximity on such an occasion to the tabooed place, was highly impious. They watched us the whole time with the greatest care, lest we should be guilty of any egregious profanation; and whenever we wanted to drink out of a calibash they had brought us, we were obliged to thrust out our heads from under the covering, though the rain fell in torrents.

The New Zealanders have many other superstitious observances, with regard to their dwellings, besides this prohibition of taking any food in them; all which they ascribe to their dread of offending the Etua, who, they imagine, would punish them in his wrathful vengeance, if they were to pollute their huts with certain offices, which they consider profane. Hence, they not only never eat within the walls of them when in health, but even when sick they neither expect this privilege, nor would accept it if allowed; and are carried out to the shed in the enclosure, let the weather be ever so inclement. Here they take whatever nourishment is provided for them, and are brought back again when they have done. Women in labour also, are delivered in these sheds if the weather is bad, but as the climate is in general very

mild, child-birth most commonly takes place under the open air. During the time a native is building or repairing a hut, he is put under the taboo taboo, which in this instance is a kind of quarantine, so far as it regards his treatment of himself; though it does not extend to his intercourse with others, this being left free and unrestrained. He must not attempt to feed himself, but has persons to wait upon him for that purpose, if he happens to be a chief; and if a cookee, or common man, his meals are left for him on the ground, and he is obliged to stoop down and take up each time with his mouth, as much as he finds necessary, continuing this painful repetition till the repast is finished. On no account whatever must he make use of his hand; for were he to apply it to his mouth under such awful circumstances, the consequence would be, according to their notions, that the Etua would destroy him by some slow and lingering disease. The individual is always fully impressed with this idea himself, and submitting with alacrity, requires no compulsion to make him observe so momentous an ordinance. Such is the force of prejudice and superstition over the human mind.

Fatigued with the excursion, and vexed at not being permitted to enter the house, and enjoy a more comfortable shelter from the rain, I inveighed against these inhospitable superstitions with much acrimony; and as Tui had previously shewed a predilection for European customs, imitating our manners while on board, as closely as he could, I told him in the language of vulgar ridicule, that the taboo taboo was all gammon. But I soon found that opinions imbibed in infancy, and cherished to the period of manhood, were as difficult to be eradicated from the minds of the New Zealanders, as from those of Europeans; for turning sharply round to me, he replied, that "it was no gammon at all; New Zealand man," said he, "say that Mr. Marsden's crackee crackee (preaching) of a Sunday, is all gammon." "No, no," I rejoined, "that is not gammon, that is miti," (good.) "Well then," retorted the tenacious reasoner, "if your crackee crackee is no gammon, our taboo taboo is no gammon;" and thus he brought the matter to a conclusion; allowing us to prize our own system, and himself and his countrymen to venerate theirs. But, I must indulge the hope, that a short time may convince them of their error, and

that they will very soon learn to appreciate the advantages of the light that is now offered to them.

As night was now fast approaching, and the rain still pouring down incessantly, to return to the ship was impracticable; and we were therefore obliged to resolve upon remaining where we were, though we had no bed to expect, nor even a comfortable floor to stretch upon. We wrapped ourselves up in our great coats, which by good fortune we had brought with us, and when the hour of rest came on, laid ourselves down under the projecting roof, choosing rather to remain here together, than to go into the house and mingle with its crowded inmates, which we knew would be very disagreeable. Mr. Marsden, who is blessed by nature with a strong constitution, and capable of enduring almost any fatigue, was very soon asleep; but I, who have not been cast in an Herculean mould, nor much accustomed to severe privations, felt all the misery of the situation, while the cold and wet to which I was unavoidably exposed, from the place being open, brought on a violent rheumatic headache, that prevented me from once closing my eyes, and kept me awake in the greatest

anguish. Being at length driven from this wretched shelter by the rain which was still beating against me, I crept into the house through the narrow aperture that served for a door; and stretching myself among my rude friends, I endeavoured to get some repose; but I found this equally impossible here, as in the place I had left. The pain of my head still continued, and those round me being all buried in profound sleep, played during the whole night, such music through their noses, as effectually prevented me from being able to join in the same chorus. The packaha was the only one among them that was doomed to remain with his eyes open, and was plagued on till morning with these noisy slumbers, in which he could not participate.

After passing a most miserable night, I felt some alleviation as the day began to dawn, and I never, either before or since, hailed the appearance of any morning with half so much pleasure, as I did that of the 3rd of January, the one that was now ushered in. Our friends ceasing their nasal symphony, and starting up from under their kakahows, immediately set about making fires, and dressing some potatoes; when after

making a hearty meal, they prepared to return with us to the ship, which I was very anxious to regain.

We recrossed the cove, and met some of the natives travelling along the shore, to whom the packaha was quickly announced. Taking a different direction on our return, to that by which we came, and keeping more inland, we observed some plantations of coomeras and potatoes belonging to Bennee and his tribe; these were not contiguous to any village or habitation, and I consider it a great proof of the insecurity in which these people live, that their grounds are rarely cultivated to any extent in the immediate vicinity of those places where they reside in congregated bodies. The plantations, though they very frequently surround the villages, are generally at some distance from them; and the latter are always constructed, either upon the summit, or at the foot of some high and almost inaccessible hill. This is most certainly occasioned by that state of disunited barbarism and feudal enmity, in which the different tribes reside among: each other; who having no moral institutions, but resorting on all occasions to physical strength, are obliged to choose those places for their

defence, which are best calculated for that purpose, without any regard to the barrenness or fertility of the situation. Hence the plantations are commonly in detached places, where the soil is favourable, and they have no idea of concentrating their industry. But this casual plan of cultivation is, however, disadvantageous to the regular improvement of the island; and could the tribes be brought to live in amity with each other, and build their villages on the fertile grounds, their respective districts would in a short time assume a much more civilized appearance.

When we reached the canoe that was to convey us back to the ship, we were obliged to wait an hour before we could launch it, the water not being high enough; but this time was not lost to our companions, who resolved to regale themselves while we were thus delayed, on some potatoes and fernroot, which, with a provident regard for their appetites, they had brought with them from the village. Making therefore a fire, they set about their cookery, and one of the old chief's sons, who was coming with us on our return, to see the ship, paddling into the swamp, very soon brought out some large eels, which he roasted, without waiting

to kill them, and presented to us for our repast. Glad of meeting with such good fare, we enjoyed the treat exceedingly, and considered the potatoes and eels a sumptuous banquet.

The tide rising to the proper height, our canoe was now enabled to proceed, and directing our course towards the ship, we were moving on at an excellent rate; but just at this moment the untoward appetites of our New Zealand friends, which were never to be satisfied, interfered with our progress, and wanting more kiki, they would paddle us, in spite of every remonstrance, to an adjacent village, where they again intended to gorge themselves. As we approached the shore, the women, who are the harbingers of hospitality in this country, shouted out haromai, haromai, in the usual way, and we were now very well accustomed to this friendly welcome. Korra-korra introduced us to the chief, who was sitting on the ground, surrounded by his people, all of whom were busily employed in beating fern-root for him. Our party instantly mingled with the group, and began to devour their favourite kiki, as voraciously as if they had not tasted a morsel for a week before. While our

friends were thus indulging their gluttony, Mr. Marsden and myself walked about the village, which was very agreeably situated by the side of a wide and extensive cove, and almost embosomed among trees. It consisted of about twenty huts, and was intersected by a wall, or rather a partition of wicker-work, the use of which I was not able to discover. Here was to be seen an abundant store of various provisions, and we observed a great number of forked poles stuck in the ground, from which were hanging baskets of fern-root, dried fish, cockles, dressed potatoes, and calibashes filled with water.

All the inhabitants flocked round us the moment we presented ourselves, and the mothers, pointing to the children they carried in their arms, called out to us repeatedly, homi pickeninnee wow, which means, give the child a nail; and this request being readily complied with, their handsome features brightened up with delight at receiving so valuable a present.

In the precincts of this village, I met with one of the most beautiful trees I had observed since I had been on the island. It grew to a very large size, spreading its

luxuriant branches to an enormous extent; and its foliage, which was of a dark green, and so thick as to be impervious to the rays of the sun, formed a cool and refreshing shade for the natives to sit under. A fruit very similar both in shape and colour to the white heart cherry, was growing upon it, but on tasting it, I found it very bitter and disagreeable. The natives, when they saw me put it in my mouth, shook their heads very significantly, and said I would be matou mouee (killed) by what I had done. From this I inferred, that it was considered poisonous among them, but I never experienced any ill effects from it.

Our friends by this time having been stuffed to repletion, we took leave of the chief, who was an old man, and father to the calculating Pomaree. The visit we paid him, he received with great indifference; for during the time we stayed, he never once moved from his seat, nor did our presence appear to excite, in his mind the least curiosity.

The writer, who is studious to give a faithful narration of facts, will not omit any that are connected with his subject, unless such as are evidently of a nature to demand that silence which delicacy requires;

and the reader, if he derives occasional amusement from the observations of the traveller, must also be prepared for unpleasant sensations. It now becomes my duty to notice a most disgusting practice among the New Zealanders, to an instance of which I was myself a reluctant witness.

As we were paddling on to the ship, I observed one of our party apply his hand to his head very frequently, and then thrust his fingers into his mouth; while his filthy purpose being no longer doubtful, I soon discovered that he was feasting himself on the swarms of vermin he had engendered, and that his dirty head was a regular resource to his more dirty stomach. Many of these vermin had been transferred to me, during the preceding night, and I thought I could never reach the ship time enough to change my clothes, and free myself from such loathsome intruders. It is strange why these people, who are extremely exact in some other respects, should be so shockingly disgusting in this; for though their plantations are neatly laid out, and their huts kept in tolerable order, their persons are suffered to swarm with cootoos, which it would seem, they rather wish to encourage than expel.

But this most obnoxious practice is not solely confined to the poor savages of New Zealand; it is to be found, or one very analogous to it, as we are informed, in a country in Europe; 13 where, not only the ordinary cleanliness, but the superior elegancies of civilized life, would be supposed to exist in an eminent degree. Yet, in such a country as this it is that the ladies, as we are told, rival the dirtiest barbarians, in a custom so abhorrent. On reaching the ship, we found several spars floated along-side, and seven or eight canoes full of people, waiting for the various articles they were to receive in return. Our deck was so crowded with the natives, that it resembled a fair; and among those who had brought down the greatest number of the spars, and were the most active dealers,

we particularly observed Tekokee and Pomaree, both of whom, and the latter especially, appeared good adepts at making bargains.

11 This poor lad having embarked for England in the Jefferson whaler, soon after our leaving New Zealand, was protected on his arrival in London, where he resumed his native name of Mowhee, by the benevolent gentlemen of the Church Missionary Society. He did not, however, long survive their humane friendship towards him; and I shall refer my readers, for an interesting account of his death, to the Missionary Register for February last. It may not be unnecessary for me to give, in this note, a slight sketch of his life; and I shall therefore state a few particulars respecting him.
Mowhee was brought from New Zealand at the age of eleven or twelve to Norfolk Island, where, being taken into the family of a Mr. Drummond, a free settler, he was treated with the greatest kindness, and took the name of his generous protector. Mr. Drummond, removing from Norfolk Island upon the breaking up of that settlement, went to reside at Port Jackson, and taking Tommy with him, he had him taught to read and write, and employed him as his servant; sometimes in the domestic concerns of the family, and at others in attending the sheep and cattle in the woods. Leaving the service of his first benefactor, he engaged himself to Mr. Marsden, who behaved to him with no less indulgence. In his new situation, he had only to assist the other servants of the house, and the labour required of him was in general very trifling. On our visit to his native island being resolved upon, it was determined that he should come on board, for the purpose of waiting upon us in the cabin; but we soon found him of very little use in this way. Poor Tommy was so much taken up with the songs and tales of his countrymen, which most probably awakened in his mind some early recollections of a pleasing nature, that, during the whole voyage, he was of no service to us that signified; and we were obliged, in consequence, to wait almost entirely upon ourselves. I often used to argue with him on his inattention, and reprimand him very sharply for it; but this had no effect, his mind being wholly occupied with joining in the mirth of the other New Zealanders. He was always ready to mingle in the dance, but his attitudes were by no means so easy and unembarrassed as those of his countrymen, and it appeared to us as if civilization had cramped his limbs, and made him quite stiff and awkward.
From the first moment of his coming on hoard, he appeared determined to settle in his native country, and Mr. Marsden intended him to act as an agent for the missionaries to procure timber from the Cowa-cowa, and to have it in readiness for the arrival of the vessel; but the restless spirit of cariosity was too powerful in his mind, and induced him to give up his ease and a fixed abode, for hardship and precarious adventure. On his voyage to this country, he was obliged to work his passage as a common sailor, and was forced to suffer many severe privations, when he might have secured both comfort and independence in his native land. He was, however, a young man of a most excellent disposition, mild and gentle in his manners, conciliating in his deportment, constant to his friends, and grateful to his benefactors. Being happily made acquainted with the merits of Revealed Religion, he prized it above every other consideration; and had Providence been pleased to spare his life, he might have been the means of doing much good in New Zealand, as he intended returning thither again, for the purpose of co-operating with the missionaries in enlightening his countrymen. He had a good figure and pleasing features; but when he dined with me last November, on my return, he was so much altered that I hardly knew him to be the same person. A pallid hue had overspread his countenance, his eyes were hollow and dull; a short cough, with difficulty of breathing, shewed him to be in a rapid consumption; and his emaciated frame was fast approaching to that "bourne from whence no traveller returns."

12 I would advise every person, under similar circumstances, to observe this rule; by the neglect of it, Sir Joseph Banks, and Dr. Solander, when they visited this island, were very near losing their lives; for being in one of these small canoes, it upset, and threw them both into the water, which I am convinced, would not have happened, had they carefully poised themselves in it at first, and then remained steady.

13 It is reported of the young ladies of Portugal, that in their morning visits among themselves, they are accustomed to examine each other's heads for vermin; and that the young lady whose turn it is to search, puts into her mouth any she happens to find, to prevent them from ever regaining their liberty. I have myself been frequently disgusted in Madeira, with the sight of women holding their heads in each other's laps, while they mutually performed this unseemly office; though, professing as I do, to state nothing but the truth, I must acknowledge, that I never saw any of them put the vermin in their mouths.

CHAPTER X

CHAP. X.

Arrival of more of the natives to trade with the ship – Their shrewdness in making bargains – Curious distinction of rank – The areekees, or superior chiefs – The power of the chiefs generally absolute – Their pride and vanity – Their marriage alliances confined to their own rank – Visit of Duaterra with provisions – His account of a meeting between himself and a hostile chief – Barbarous cruelty of Pomaree – Malignity of the chiefs towards each other – Tarra's slander of Tippahee, and its dreadful effects – Arrival of new visitors, and a description of their canoe – Traffic recommenced – An excursion on shore by the Author and his friend – Maternal affection – Prudence of the New Zealanders in laying up provisions – Reflections on it – Artifice of Pomaree – His proficiency in a barbarous art – Mr. Marsden's caution against exhibiting it on board.

As soon as the morning of the 4th appeared, we had several more spars along-side, together with an increase of new visitors, who were generally very noisy merchants, and as keen in enhancing their commodities as the most crafty Jews on the Royal Exchange. I have been much surprised to see with what address and calculating circumspection, they concluded their bargains; and it appeared to me extraordinary, how persons in their state could have acquired such

a proficiency in all the subtleties of traffic. But however well experienced they were in consulting their own interest, and estimating the value of what they were to give and receive, we had no reason to complain of our bargains; an axe, worth only ten shillings, purchasing three spars, that would sell at Port Jackson for eight pounds. But if articles are to be estimated in proportion to their scarcity as well as their obvious utility, eight pounds worth of timber was of infinitely less value to them than an axe; so they were gainers by the exchange, while to us it was highly advantageous.

Tarra and Pomaree breakfasted with us in the cabin. The former observed a peculiarity in his manner of eating, which in this respect distinguished him from the other; his rice he took out of the plate with a spoon, and putting it out of the spoon into his hand, conveyed it to his mouth: and in drinking his tea, he put his hand before his lips, pouring the tea into the palm of it, and scrupulously abstaining from touching with his lips the vessels out of which he ate and drank. I attempted to make him give up this absurd practice, and told him how much more suitable it would be, if he would

eat as we did; but he shook his head, and with an air of offended consequence, replied, that he was an areekee, and taboo taboo, but that Tupee and Pomaree, being only cookees, they might eat after our manner. This contemptuous designation was an insult to the consequence of Pomaree, who was handling his knife and fork with all the dexterity of an European; and willing to try his temper on the occasion, I laughed, and told him he was a cookee, at which his pride taking instant alarm, he ceased copying us, and began to imitate Tarra; but he was not invulnerable to the shafts of ridicule, and our jokes very soon made him desist from such foolery, and go on as before.

From the particular deference that was paid to Tarra, it would appear that he was exalted considerably above the other chiefs in this part of the Bay; but I could not exactly ascertain how far they acknowledged his authority. It appears to me, however, so far as my observations on the state of society among them, enable me to form an opinion upon the subject, that these people exist at present under a sort of feudal system, in some degree analogous to that which prevailed to a recent period in Scotland. The

areekees may command the services of the inferior chiefs in time of war; but whether the latter hold their lands on this condition, I have not been able to ascertain. The part of New Zealand of which I treat at present, that is, from the Cavalles to the river Thames, is under the controul of three areekees, or head chiefs; namely, Kangeroa, on the north-west side of the Bay of Islands; Tarra, on the south-east side, extending as far as Bream Bay; and all the rest of the country, lying between that place and the river Thames, is subject to an areekee named Shoupah, whose jurisdiction is very considerable. But I am inclined to think, that in many instances, the power of these areekees over the petty chieftains, is little more than nominal; for though it is formally acknowledged, still the different tribes make war upon each other without consulting their respective areekees, and act in several other respects entirely independent of their authority. From this it appears probable, that the chiefs do not hold their lands as fiefs from the areekees, but that they merely agree in a voluntary recognition of their power, without being restricted by it any more than suits their caprice or expediency. The

authority of many of the chiefs themselves is very extensive, having a numerous train of dependants, who pay the most devoted regard to their interests, and are ready with their lives upon any urgent occasion, to prove their fidelity.

We were informed that it was not a practice with the areekees to engage personally in war themselves, but that each had his general, or fighting-man, as Duaterra expressed it, who was most commonly one of his nearest relations. This commander-in-chief, according to the accounts we received, is a very important personage; he directs all warlike measures with unlimited controul, makes the necessary preparations for mustering the forces, and takes care to have them in a state of efficiency and readiness for any emergency. In battle he is always to be found at their head, where he directs their operations according to whatever system of discipline he chooses to adopt; and true to his post, he never once thinks of quitting it, but continues to display the most firm intrepidity, till either a total defeat or a complete victory decides the conflict. The areekees being thus by the prescriptive usage of the country, freed from any personal con-

cerns in war, their time is generally occupied in agriculture, and in directing the political economy of their people. This is the case with Kangeroa, whose brother Shunghi acts as generalissimo of all his forces, and likewise with Tarra, who unites the character of a priest to that of a chief, and leaves the military management of his people to his brother Tupee, a man highly qualified for such a duty.

The power of the chiefs, from what I could learn, is in general absolute; the lives and properties of their tribes being entirely subject to their will: though I believe in some districts it is restrained by certain limitations, and controuled in a great measure by public opinion. Thus, at Rangehoo, many of the cookees have ground which they hold by an independent tenure, and which may be considered in every respect as entailed estates, securely vested in the possessors, and devolving to their descendants, the chief having no power to oust them at his pleasure. But the political economy of these people is a subject involved in so much obscurity, that without a perfect knowledge of their language, it is impossible to give an accurate or satisfactory account of it. Therefore it will be

necessary for any European who would go into a detail upon it, to make up his mind to a long residence on the island, otherwise his observations must be casual, and his statements incomplete.

The areekees of the interior have probably more power than those on the sea coast; at least they were represented to us, as being attended with much more state and ceremonious distinction. They are carried, as we were informed, whenever they go abroad, on the shoulders of their attendants, in a sort of state litter, and receive many other distinguished marks of respect, no less indicative of their superior station. But, however vain these may be of the profound homage thus paid to them, the areekees and chiefs in this quarter are not surpassed by them in pride; for they look with the most consummate haughtiness upon all those who are inferior to them in rank, considering them only as abject creatures, who are born to be subservient to their absolute controul. But in justice to them I must observe, that they never treat their dependants with wanton cruelty, nor does their pride, upon any occasion, prompt them to acts of severity or oppression. They live among them in perfect harmony, and

though they consider the disparity as interminable, they never suffer it to interfere with the complacencies of concord. They appeared extremely solicitous to display their consequence before us, and in their conversations they never failed to urge it in terms of the most absurd vanity. The behaviour of the common people was not at all reserved in the presence of their chiefs, and they spoke and acted with as much freedom as if they were absent. This seemed to me a strong proof of their not being harshly treated; and though they cultivate the land, dig up the fern-root, and prepare it for their masters, still their labour never appears the effect of constraint, and they work with so much good humour and cheerfulness, that it seems rather a pleasure to them than an obligation. The chiefs are much superior to the lower orders in the comeliness of their persons; but this may be accounted for by their exemption from labour, and their easy state of independence, in which neither the mind nor body undergoes any fatigue. All the males belonging to the family of the chief are styled rungateedas, and these have generally servants of their own to wait upon them. These intermarry with the female branches.

but neither sex can form any matrimonial connection with the cookees. The chiefs and those rungateedas whose circumstances will admit of maintaining more than one wife, always indulge in a plurality. But as all the wives, except the head one, are generally obliged to be occupied in laborious employments, I am disposed to think that the chiefs take them rather for their manual services, than for the charms of their persons or the endearments of their society. Indeed they may be considered in no other light than as hard-working servants, having no honour assigned to them but that of distinguished drudgery.

While the vessel lay at this place taking in her cargo, we lost no time in exploring such parts of the country as we could conveniently have access to; and in the different excursions we made, the same continuity of hill and dale invariably presented itself; with the exception of one level tract of land, lying at a considerable distance to the westward. This was thickly wooded, and bounded by a range of mountains which were more picturesque than lofty.

Duaterra, considering that we might very probably be in want of provisions, visited us,

together with Tenana, and brought with him several baskets of potatoes, which Mr. Marsden had purchased of Shunghi, when the ship lay at Rangehoo. Since we had last seen the friendly chief, who had now come to us with a supply, he had paid a visit to his farm, he told us, and got in some of his wheat, and was proceeding there again, when Shunghi urged him to come to the vessel. He also related to us a circumstance, which serves to shew in what a state of insecurity the people of this island must always live, and how much it behoves them to be perpetually on their guard against the attacks of each other. He said, that on his return from his farm, he was met by a chief who lived in the neighbourhood, attended by ten of his men, and having passed each other without any particular notice being taken on either side, Duaterra turned suddenly round, and saw the chief following him with his spear in his hand, and his mats thrown upon the ground. Suspecting his design, Duaterra instantly pulled out a brace of pistols, and presenting them at him, demanded his reasons for following him: the chief, intimidated by such formidable means of resistance, replied, in a very suppliant tone, that he was proceeding

that way, and had no other object. This answer, however, did not satisfy the other, and he told him, if he attempted to advance another step, he would immediately shoot him dead; upon which the hostile chief thought it most prudent to retire. According to Duaterra's account, it does not appear that there existed previously any cause of enmity between them; but his countrymen, he observed, were jealous of him, in consequence of his close intimacy with us, and looked with envy on his acquisitions, because in general they exceeded their own, particularly in European articles. For this reason they would not hesitate, he believed, to destroy him, thinking him, as he expressed it, "too much of a gentleman." He gave a very bad character of Pomaree, whom he represented as extremely quarrelsome, and addicted to theft, stealing the property of his neighbours whenever he had an opportunity, and always involved in broils with some of the tribes. On a recent occasion he made an incursion, he said, into his territory, and murdered six of his people without any provocation. I asked if he had feasted on the bodies, and Duaterra replied, that he devoured them all; even the heads had not

escaped his vengeful gluttony, having first placed them upon a stick, and roasted them in the fire.

He told us also, that George, the chief of Wangeroa, had been heard to say, that he intended behaving in a friendly manner to our vessel, in case she should arrive in his harbour, hoping that our favourable reports of him would induce other European ships to put in there likewise; but that he was fully determined to cut off the next that should come after our departure. Unwilling as I am to doubt the veracity of Duaterra, whom I never yet detected in a falsehood, and bad as the opinion is which I entertain of George, still I cannot lend my positive belief to this statement. I have frequently observed a great propensity in the chiefs to calumniate each other; and though I will not say that Duaterra actually invented this story to confirm our prejudices against his rival, I think it very likely, at the same time, that from whatever source it originated, he was extremely glad of having such a one for our information. Many of the chiefs entertain towards each other, not only a spirit of envy, but even of rancorous malignity; and to converse with one of them, it would be

supposed, that all except the individual himself were the most abandoned and faithless miscreants, while, from another, this person receives the same character, and is ranked with the most opprobrious of those whom he inveighed against. Tarra positively assured us, that Tippahee, between whose tribe and his own there existed a perpetual strife for superiority, had been a principal actor in cutting off the hapless crew of the Boyd; though George, the head perpetrator of that shocking deed, and who could have no motive in deceiving us, but on the contrary, would be glad to exculpate himself, by throwing the blame on Tippahee, or any other chief, declared to us most unequivocally, that he had had no concern in it whatever.

It is to be regretted that this vile spirit of calumny should prevail among the chiefs; and I trust the missionaries will strenuously exert themselves to cure them of a vice which is so base and detestable. There can be no doubt, in my opinion, but that the assertion thus made by Tarra was dictated by malevolence; and I was sorry to find a chief, of whom in other respects I thought very favourably, capable of practising the same slanderous falsehood as the

others. Tippahee had nearly fallen a victim 14 to the vengeance excited against him by this malignant report, and his death was ultimately occasioned by its remote consequences, while it brought immediate destruction on a great number of his people. Four or five of our whalers happening to enter the Bay of Islands, shortly after the cutting off

of the Boyd, landed their crews on a small island, where Tippahee and his tribe resided; being previously informed by Tarra, that to them alone was the massacre to be attributed: and fired with impatience for revenge, they commenced an indiscriminate slaughter of the guiltless inhabitants, sparing neither age nor sex; burning their houses, and destroying their plantations. Tippahee himself escaped with his life, after having received some severe wounds; but the havoc made among his people must be truly afflicting to the friends of innocence and humanity. I must here join with Mr. Marsden in hoping that the Europeans, when they inflicted this terrible vengeance on these poor natives, were unconscious that they had mistaken the objects of it; revenge at any time cannot be reconciled to the meek forbearance which Christians ought to practise, though human nature will always imperiously demand it: but when the innocent are made with horrid purpose to suffer unnecessarily for the guilty, it then becomes no less atrocious than deplorable. I trust, however, that Englishmen, as they are never wantonly cruel, were not so in the present instance; and that while they imbrued their hands in the blood of

these harmless creatures, they acted under the erroneous impression, that theirs were stained with that of our people.

We were visited on Thursday, January 5th, by a tribe who inhabit the shores of Bream Bay. The canoe in which they came was very handsome, the head and stern being curiously ornamented with rich carving, and embellished with the feathers of the emu, parrots, and other birds. The bottom part of the canoe was made out of one tree excavated to the necessary length; and the sides were raised by planks, making the depth about two feet. The planks were fastened to the sides of the bottom part with strong cord, holes being bored above and below, about six inches apart, and the intermediate space filled in with the down of the bull-rush, which was no bad substitute for caulking. I estimated the length of the canoe at thirty feet, and the breadth was four feet six inches between the gunwales. All their canoes are generally built on the same plan, differing only in dimensions and certain adventitious embellishments, such as those mentioned above, which vary in proportion to the taste or wealth of the owners.

In this canoe there were three chiefs,

Kotaheega from Bream Bay, and the other two, whose names were Homarree and Puttuti, from Thiomi, a place about twenty miles in the interior. Puttuti represented himself as the intimate friend of Shunghi, at whose request, he said, he paid us this visit. They appeared to like very well their reception on board; and taking them into the cabin, we shewed them in Cook's Voyages the drawings of their hippahs, canoes, and implements of war, with all of which they seemed much pleased, and readily distinguished each representation by its proper name. With the drawing of the war-canoe they were particularly delighted, and asked me in the full exultation of their hearts, if King George the nuee nuee areekee 15 had seen it. They partook with a keen appetite of the food we set before them, but they convinced us they were never accustomed to any strong beverage; for while one of them was drinking a little rum, the tears started in his eyes, and he was obliged to spit it out, declaring that it was impossible for him to swallow it. A boy who accompanied them, excited our disgust, by performing in the cabin, without any ceremony, one of the offensive offices of nature,

while we were at dinner, for which he was immediately turned out.

In the evening our new guests amused us with singing and dancing, enjoying the visit with their natural hilarity. They had a singular movement in one of their dances that I had not observed before, and which to me appeared both ungraceful and absurd. Repeating the words tihu tihu several times, they rubbed their hips incessantly with the palms of their hands, while with their feet they kept beating exact time to the words they pronounced. One of them had suspended from his neck a dollar that was part of the spoil of the unfortunate Boyd; and another carried a piece of iron, that with unwearied perseverance and hard labour, he had beaten into the shape of a sword. This he kept wrapped up in a piece of cloth, which served him for a scabbard; and he preserved it as carefully as if it were an inestimable treasure. Kotaheega was extremely desirous that we should visit Shoupah, his superior chief, whom he described as a powerful areekee at the river Thames.

The morning of the 6th brought us an immense number of the natives, who came from the districts bordering on the Wyemattee

and Cowa-cowa, to traffic with the vessel. Our new friends, the three chiefs, took leave of us at an early hour to proceed to their respective places of abode; but meeting with so many of their countrymen coming in their canoes to the ship, they were induced to alter their resolution, and returned in company with them. We were now completely surrounded with busy traders, and the curiosities they offered us we were very willing to purchase, for we found them far less exorbitant in their demands than the people of Rangehoo, who, from a more frequent intercourse with our ships, had learned to set a high value on their different commodities. A brisk trade was therefore carried on, and the business of barter proceeded very rapidly. While on this subject, I cannot omit an instance of fair dealing in one of these people, which was highly creditable to his punctuality and good principles. The individual to whom I allude, was standing up in one of the outside canoes, displaying for sale a very handsome war-mat; I called out to him that I would give him a tokee for it, to which he assented; but not having one upon deck at the time, I went into the cabin to get one out of my chest. While I

was here delayed in searching for it, one of our party in the mean time, not aware of the bargain I had concluded, shewed the man a large tokee, and wished him to hand up the mat; but he remained true to his engagement, and gave him to understand that it was already sold. As he had never seen me before, and did not know my name, he was at a loss to signify who it was that had purchased it; and, as an expedient, he put his fingers before his eyes to represent my spectacles, by which he succeeded in making it instantly appear to the other that I was the person. Though the mat was a curiosity very well worth the possessing, still it gave me much greater pleasure to find the man had so great a regard for his word, than that I was not disappointed in obtaining it.

The market being over, the canoes took their departure, while Mr. Marsden and myself, proceeding in the boat to the heads of some of the small coves, we looked about in search of resin, which is brought down by the streams from various parts of the interior. By the accounts of the natives, it is said to be frequently seen floating on the water in considerable masses, but we could perceive none of it, though we examined the streams

very carefully. The pine, called by the natives cowree, abounds with resin; and I believe is the only tree of that species in the island that has any.

Landing at the foot of a small but steep hill, and climbing to the top of it, we fell in with two huts, the inhabitants of which, contrary to what we had yet experienced, (except at the Cavalles) fled at our approach. We had not been long here, when a young man came out of the woods, and with his spear in his hand advanced towards us, without betraying the least symptoms of alarm. Observing at the same moment a woman and some children running over the hills quite panic-struck at the sight of us, we requested him to call them back, to which he readily consented; when the woman, who happened to be his own mother, ventured to return; but no persuasions could prevail upon the children to come near us, so terrified were they with the idea that we intended to destroy them. This was the first instance we met with of any timidity in the children; for in all the other places we had visited, so far were they from being alarmed by the packaha, that they ran up to us with the most familiar confidence. The young man

appeared very anxious to receive from us some account of a brother of his, who, he informed us, had left his family in the course of the preceding year, and entered as a sailor on board one of our vessels. Upon mentioning his name, and that of the Captain of the ship, Mr. Marsden immediately recollected having had him to his house; and explaining the circumstance to his mother, who had till then ceased to believe that her son was in existence, the poor creature burst into tears; and while we witnessed her joy, the effect was irresistible, and our feelings could not possibly remain unsubdued.

As we were returning to the boat, we met with a singular tree, growing close to the shore, the wood of which is used by the natives as floats for their nets. Its foliage is of a dark green, and the leaf much broader than that of the fig-tree. The height it grows to is inconsiderable, and the stem and branches are composed of concentric circles of pith divided by a woody substance of about a line in thickness. The trunk consists of long fibres, of which the natives make their strongest fishing lines; and our Otaheitan sailor informed us, that this tree was very common in his country, and it supplied the materials

from which the people there manufactured their cloth. Besides this tree, we observed another very large and beautiful one, the wood of which has a sweet and odoriferous smell, and might be converted to many useful purposes. While we were still on our return, we passed a large canoe loaded with fern-root, going towards Wycaddie, a considerable place in the interior; and we remarked some immense nets hanging upon poles along the shore; but we could discover no traces of inhabitants near them, and the place appeared entirely abandoned. The natives most probably had all gone into the interior, for the purpose of cultivating their potatoes. No people can be more provident and industrious than the New Zealanders in supplying themselves with stores of provisions; and this laudable foresight forms a pleasing contrast to the indolent heedlessness of the natives of New Holland, who never think of providing for their future wants, the effects of which they bear with the same indifference that disinclines them to adopt a remedy.

The artful Pomaree afforded an instance of his calculating selfishness during our absence from the ship. This wily chief had

cast a longing eye upon a chisel belonging; to one of the missionaries, and to obtain it he brought some fish on board, which he presented to the owner of the chisel with so much apparent generosity and friendliness, that the other could not help considering it a gratuitous favour, and receiving it as such, told him he felt very grateful for his obliging kindness. But Pomaree had no idea of any such disinterested liberality, and so soon as the fish were eaten, he immediately demanded the chisel in return; which, however, was not granted, as it was a present much too valuable to be given away for so trifling a consideration. Incensed at the denial, the chief flew into a violent rage, and testified by loud reproaches, how grievously he was provoked by the ill success of his project. He told the person who very properly refused to comply with his demand, that "he was no good," and that he would never again bring him any thing more. He attempted the same crafty experiment upon another of our party also, but this proved equally abortive; the person being well aware of his character, and knowing he would require from him, ten times more than the worth of his pretended favour. I should advise one invariable rule

to be observed in all commercial transactions with these people, viz. always to bargain with them for whatever they bring you, and to let the terms of the agreement be well understood, without making the slightest subsequent deviation. Thus, knowing what they are to expect, they will ask no more; but if the terms are not stipulated, they will enhance their commodities considerably above their real value, and be always dissatisfied with a fair remuneration. Yet, when the bargain is once settled, they never question whether it will be profitable or otherwise to them, but abide by it with the strictest punctuality; and even though it may be decidedly against their interest.

We found Pomaree to be a very extraordinary character: he was of more service to us in procuring timber, than all the other chiefs put together; and I never met, in any part of the world, with a man who shewed so much impatient avidity for transacting business. His abilities too in this line were very great; he was an excellent judge of several articles, and could give his opinion of an axe as well as any European; while handling it with ecstasy the moment he got it in his possession, his

eyes would still feast themselves on so invaluable an acquisition. He was extremely obnoxious to all the other chiefs, and if their assertions might be relied upon, he deserved to be held, both by them and every body else, in the utmost abhorrence; but these rivals, as has been shewn, are generally inclined to traduce each other, and their testimony should therefore be always received with caution. This man, though subordinate to Tarra, paid very little deference to that venerable areekee; not unfrequently setting his authority at defiance, and displaying, upon every occasion, a more uncomplying spirit of independence than any of the other chiefs. It is customary with the New Zealanders to preserve from putrifaction by a curious method, the heads of the enemies they have slain in battle; and Pomaree had acquired so great a proficiency in this art, that he was considered the most expert at it of any of his countrymen. The process, as I was informed, consists of taking out the brains, and drying the head in such a manner as to keep the flesh entire; but in doing this, an uncommon degree of skill and experience is required Mr. Marsden put some questions to Pomaree one day

about the plan he pursued in this barbarous art, that gave him so decided a superiority over the others; but he was not willing to make him a direct reply, as he knew it was a subject on which we reflected with horror, and one which in its detail must be shocking to our feelings. But my friend asking him if he could procure a head preserved in this manner, it occurred to him, that he might receive an axe for his trouble, and this idea made the man of business not only enter into a copious explanation of his theory, but induced him also to offer us a sample of his practice, by telling us he would go and shoot some people who had killed his son, if we would supply him with powder for the purpose; and then bringing back their heads, would shew us all we wished to know about his art of preserving them. It will easily be supposed, that this sanguinary proposal immediately put an end to all further interrogatories; and Mr. Marsden, whose motive for questioning him on the subject was, not to discover the nature of a practice so revolting to humanity, but to develope more fully the character of the individual, told him he must fight no more, and desired him, in positive terms, never to

attempt to bring any sample of his art on board, as he had no intention of seeing it himself at the time he inquired about it, nor would he suffer any one in the ship to countenance such a shocking exhibition. This was a sad disappointment to Pomaree, who found himself deceived in the hopes he had formed of increasing his wealth, by the addition of another axe; and I cannot help believing, that for so tempting a reward, he would not have hesitated to take the life of the first person that came in his way, provided he could do it with impunity. Such is the force of avarice even among the wildest barbarians, and such its baneful influence over their benighted minds. This chief omitted no opportunity of setting forth his great personal qualifications, as likewise the extensive authority he possessed; and he was constantly boasting of his warlike achievements, despising his rivals, and extolling himself over all the other heroes of New Zealand.

14 The reader would be led to suppose, from the statement of this melancholy transaction by my excellent friend Mr. Marsden, that Tippahee had actually been killed by our people, which was not the case, being only wounded; but he was afterwards slain in an encounter with the tribe of Wangeroa. Mr. Marsden, relying on the authority of the brother chiefs, George and Tippouie, thinks with me, that the charge imputed to him was false; and there is something so very pathetic in the sincere regret with which he deplores his fate, that I cannot forbear inserting the passage. "From the accounts (he observes) which these chiefs and their people gave of the destruction of the Boyd, Tippahee appears to have had no hand in this melancholy event; it was their own act and deed. This being strictly true, and I see no reason to disbelieve their declaration, Tippahee and his people were innocent sufferers, and their deaths laid the foundation for much bloodshed. Many since that period have been cut off, both belonging to the Bay of Islands and Wangeroa. I never passed Tippahee's island without a sigh. It is now desolate, without an inhabitant, and has been so ever since his death; the ruins of his little cottage, which was built by the kindness of the late Governor King, still remaining. I would hope that those Europeans, who were concerned in that fatal transaction, were ignorant at the time that they were punishing the innocent."-See Missionary Register for November, 1816.

15 The great chief.

CHAPTER XI

CHAP. XI.

Return of the Author and his party to Rangehoo – The buildings commenced – Scenes presented to the Author in a short excursion – Visit to the queen of Tippoonah- Arrival of Shunghi and his brother Kangeroa – Divine service performed on shore – The Author and Mr. Marsden proceed with Shunghi to Wyemattee, his place of residence – Some particulars of the calamity that befel Tippahee and his tribe – Singular contrivance of Shunghi – Manner of cooking potatoes – Local descriptions – Gaiety of Shunghi's people – Friendly reception at the village of a chief – Refreshments taken there – Arrival at Wyemattee – Great strength of the hippah, and its remarkable fortifications – Its population and interior buildings – Excursion to Lake Morberree – Its inviting situation, and the advantages it offers for forming a principal settlement there – Suggestions of the Author to that effect.

HAVING taken in a sufficient supply of timber to keep the workmen employed, and engaged Pomaree to bring some spars to Rangehoo, which we had purchased but could not take on board; we weighed anchor early on the morning of the 7th, and after five hours' sailing, arrived opposite the capital of Tippoonah. Duaterra, the moment he espied the vessel, had his colours hoisted

upon his fort in compliment to us, and we immediately displayed ours in return.

On landing, we found that the natives had exerted themselves with indefatigable industry during our absence, having nearly completed a large building for the immediate reception of the missionaries and their families. The dimensions of this structure were sixty feet in length and fourteen in breadth. They had built the walls with strong posts fastened in the ground at short distances from each other, and interwoven with flags and rushes: along the top of the posts they had placed a rail, to which the rafters were fastened, and the roof was of a ridge-like form, and thatched with rushes. The interior of the building was divided by partitions into four apartments, one for each family. The smith and the labourers whom we had left on shore had also worked with great assiduity, the smith's forge being almost finished, and some progress made in burning charcoal. Every one capable of working, that could be spared from the ship, was now employed in proceeding with the buildings; and while this scene of active industry was going forward, I amused myself by walking occasionally into the town, and observing the

domestic economy of the people. While passing through the adjacent fields, I saw some men and women busily engaged in digging up potatoes; and the instrument they used for the purpose was very rude and imperfect. This wretched substitute for a spade, was a pole about seven feet long, terminating in a sharp point, and having at the distance of three feet from the extremity, a piece of wood fastened at right angles as a rest for the foot. After the potatoes were dug up, they put them upon a stage elevated about eight or nine feet from the ground, and covered them over very carefully with fern. Some of the women in the town were employed in making mats and kackahows, and few of them appeared to be idle. I was much pleased with this disposition to industry, which, when directed to civilized pursuits, will very soon be productive of the greatest advantages. The inhabitants brought me thread and fishing lines to purchase, which they readily parted with for nails and other trifles. Among their curiosities were some specimens of carving, which were both grotesque and singular. But the most remarkable were some rude imitations of human heads, with the eyes inlaid with

pearl shell; there were also several figures representing men and women in the most indecent postures. I observed at one of the huts a large piece of wrought-iron, technically termed a knee, taken from the Boyd; and as it could be of no possible use to the natives, and as the trouble of bringing it thither must have been very great, I should suppose their motive in removing it was to sell it to any of the ships that might enter the harbour. Outside another of the huts I witnessed a scene that amused me very much, though, at the same time it was calculated to excite my disgust. I found here two ladies at their toilet, besmearing each other's faces and hair with red ochre and shark's oil, and assisting each other alternately in heightening their embellishments. The shark's oil is considered by them a great beautifier of the complexion; but the greasy appearance it gave them, and the insupportable stench it emitted, destroyed at once all the effect of their regular features and expressive countenances, while I could not help regretting their utter perversion of taste. To the men here, however, this very perversion only makes them the more captivating; and the deeper they are bedaubed, and the more highly they are

coloured, the greater the rapture and admiration they always inspire. But disgusting and loathsome as this practice is, it is at the same time innoxious, and certainly rational, compared with the custom of painting, so long in vogue among our own countrywomen; who do not hesitate to ruin their complexions and impair their health, by the pernicious use of white lead and other deleterious cosmetics. How long shall the meretricious absurdities of fashion, thus continue to offer violence to the engaging simplicity of nature! In the afternoon Mr. Marsden and myself paid a visit to the queen, who told us that Duaterra had not yet returned from his farm. Her majesty was attended by three of her maids of honour, if they may be so called, who amused us with singing and dancing; and being very handsome, with neither oil nor red ochre about them, they formed a most agreeable contrast to the two ladies we had recently seen. Duaterra's aunt diverted us very much by her continual sallies of good humour, laughing and talking with great vivacity the whole time, as indeed did most of the others; for these people, as I have already observed, are habitually cheerful and facetious. They made Mr. Marsden

a present of a ball called a poe, with which the ladies amuse themselves by throwing it repeatedly backward and forward; it is somewhat larger than a cricket-ball, and made of their cloth or canvas, stuffed with the down of the bull-rush, having a long string appended to it, which they seize with the fore-finger while the ball is in motion, and are very dexterous in this practice. However puerile this amusement may seem, it is not more so than many that we find very common among the grown people in England.

On the morning of the 8th, which was Sunday, we were visited by Kangeroa, the brother of Shunghi, and the areekee of this part of the Bay of Islands. Duaterra, though a powerful chief, was subject in some degree to his authority, and received him with distinguished respect. Kangeroa was a middle-aged man, very well proportioned, but inclined to corpulency; mild in his manners, and easy in his deportment. Shunghi, who accompanied his brother, brought his daughter with him, a fine girl about eleven years of age, whom he presented in joke to Mr. Marsden as a wife for his son Charles, requesting his consent to the match, as the

age of the parties was nearly equal. Mr. Marsden, seeming to accept the proposal, told the chief that he had no objection to the alliance, bau only on condition that Miss Shunghi should reside at Port Jackson, at which her father shook his head, and would fain have the converse of the proposition, viz. that Charles should come and fix his abode with him in New Zealand.

The missionaries with their families and all the ship's company going on shore, Mr. Marsden performed divine service in the new building, where the chiefs and many of the natives attended, and behaved with the greatest propriety. The ground being damp, they shewed their considerate attention by spreading their mats and kackahows for us to put our feet upon, and were in other respects particularly obliging. Duaterra, who had by this time returned from his farm, told us he was nuee nuee careedee (very angry) with his wife, whom he could not prevail upon to attend, dressed in her English clothes; in consequence of her being laughed at and turned into ridicule by her countrywomen whenever she appeared in them. In the afternoon we went up to the fort, when he used all the persuasions of which he was

capable, to induce her to put them on, but it was to no purpose; she persisted in her resolution of never attain subjecting herself to the jeering scoffs of the other women, and wearing her native garb, which was much more in unison with her character as well as becoming to such a figure as her's, she proved equally her taste and good sense. I could not perceive any of the people at work on this day, and I believe it arose from a regulation established by Duaterra, prohibiting manual labour on the Sabbath. In compliment of the day, he had his flag hoisted at the fort so soon as the morning appeared.

The following day, January 9th, Warree, the man whom Duaterra had punished for seducing one of his wives, was missing from the ship; having made his escape during the preceding, night. We took him on board the vessel when we sailed to the Cowa-cowa, and treated him exactly in the same manner as the rest; but whether he had become disgusted with regular employment, or was apprehensive that Duaterra was not satisfied with the punishment he had taken, and might still meditate some further infliction, I could not discover; however, he contrived in the middle of the night to have a canoe

brought along-side, in which he got clear off. Duaterra declared that if ever he caught him again, he would certainly put him to death. Shunghi, who had for a long time previously requested us to visit his residence in the interior, came now in a very handsome war-canoe, tastefully ornamented with rich carving at the head and stern, to take us with him. This canoe was by much the largest of any I had yet been in, measuring sixty feet in length, by four feet six inches in breadth; and at about the distance of a foot from the bottom, was fixed some wickerwork, which running along the whole length of the canoe, served for an easy and commodious seat. Our party, besides my friend and myself, consisted of Shunghi, Tenana, Widoua, a son of Kangeroa, and fourteen able young men to paddle the canoe: Duaterra and his head wife, who were going to their farm, accompanied us part of the way, and we all proceeded in high spirits. The chiefs assisted in paddling, as did also the queen of Tippoonah, who, laying her child at the bottom of the canoe, exerted herself with as much activity as the men, and shared their labours with equal perseverance. Our movement through the

water was extremely rapid, the rowers being all expert and vigorous; the morning was beautiful, and every one in the canoe evinced the greatest pleasure on the occasion, talking and laughing in the most lively manner. Our course lay nearly due west, and we passed the little island where the present inhabitants of Rangehoo used to reside in peaceful happiness under their chief Tippahee, before the destructive attack made upon them by the crews of the whalers obliged them to abandon it. We saw the ruins of the huts, and Duaterra related to us the particulars of that lamentable transaction. The natives, as soon as the attack commenced, endeavoured to save themselves by flight, and ran off in every direction; some who plunged themselves into the water, were fortunate enough to escape by swimming to the opposite land, and among these were Tippahee and Gunnah, both of, whom had been previously wounded. But all those who were surprised in the village, fell together in one indiscriminate massacre; and the scene of carnage was quite as terrible as that which it professed to revenge. It will be regretted by every feeling heart, that these inoffensive creatures, who had uniformly conducted themselves towards

our shipping with the greatest good faith and the most friendly treatment, were nearly all annihilated; while the guilty savages at Wangeroa have to this moment gone unpunished. Far be it from me to speak in the spirit of retaliating vengeance, or to advise now any retributive measures towards George and his tribe; but had our countrymen punished them at the time as they deserved, in place of carrying slaughter and desolation into Tippahee's little island, it would have served two good purposes: the blood which they had so cruelly shed would have been avenged on the perpetrators; and what was of more consequence than all, as it would be the means of preventing future enormities, our name would have been rendered formidable throughout the whole country. The innocent, however, have been the victims; and poor Tippahee, whose disposition was incapable of the cruelty imputed to him, was obliged to witness the destruction of his tribe, while he fled himself to avoid their destiny.

At a short distance beyond this island we passed a very extensive cove, running to the north-east, where our whalers generally anchor, and which affords a secure harbour

to any number of shipping, however considerable. The sides of this cove were formed by hills so very steep, that they appeared like natural walls running along the shore; and on their summits were built some detached hippahs, that seemed almost inaccessible. After paddling very hard for more than three hours, we reached the head of the cove, into which a small river discharged itself; and the canoe being drawn on shore, Duaterra and his wife got into another canoe that was in attendance, and proceeded to the place of their destination. The spot where we landed was a small plantation of potatoes belonging to Shunghi, and here our party intended to prepare their refreshments; seating themselves along the ground for the purpose. Fire, however, was wanting, and to procure it, Shunghi took my fowling-piece, and stopping up the touch-hole, he put a small piece of linen into the pan, and endeavoured to excite a spark. But this expedient proved unsuccessful, as the lock had got rusted and would not go off; he then got some dry grass and a piece of rotten wood, and turning a small stick rapidly between his hands in the same manner as we mill chocolate, the friction caused the touch-

wood, in which the point of the stick was inserted, to take fire; white wrapping it up in the dry grass and shaking it backward and forward, he very soon produced a flame, which he communicated to some dry sticks and other fuel that our party had collected. The cooks now set to work, and were all as busy as possible; some paring potatoes with the shell of the muscle, and others preparing the oven for dressing them. The process they made use of on this occasion was similar to that I have adverted to in the note which I have added from Mr. Savage's account of this island. They dug a circular hole in the ground, and placing some stones at the bottom, they made a fire upon them, and on the upper part they put another covering of stones; thus confining the heat till the furnace was fit for the intended purpose. As soon as it was ready, they took out the stones which were heated through, and clearing the hole from the embers, they placed some of the hot stones at the bottom with some wet grass upon them, and on the grass they laid the potatoes, nicely scraped, while over them they put some more wet grass and hot stones; then covering over the whole with earth, the vapour

was soon extracted from the grass, and the potatoes, in about ten minutes, were nicely dressed and fit for eating. Thus does necessity supply instruction to the untutored mind, while it makes even the wildest barbarians become, unconsciously, practical philosophers; and the power of steam, which of late is so well known in Europe, has been resorted to, most probably for ages past, in New Zealand.

The river that discharged itself into the cove, was called by the natives Tecaddie-caddie; it came from some distance in the interior, and its banks in many parts were lined with timber, which the natives float down the stream as occasion requires. A little way from its mouth was a fall that might, with no great trouble, be made strong enough to turn machinery. Our party having now had sufficient kiki, and they all being willing to proceed, we set off without more delay for Wyemattee, the residence of Shunghi and Kangeroa. We presented, as we went along, a very formidable appearance: Shunghi had got a pistol in his belt, and carried my gun, the lock of which I had now put in order; two of his people marched with loaded muskets, and all the rest were

armed with spears; so that had any hostile tribe ventured to interrupt our progress by making an attack upon us, we were well prepared to have opposed them with effectual resistance. After we had passed two small hills, between which was a fine plantation of coomeras, we entered a beautiful champaign country, extending for several miles, and enriched with the various natural productions of the island. On our way, we perceived a small heap of stones by the side of the path, where our companions informed us a man was buried, and this spot being tabooed, we were not of course allowed to approach nearer. The prospect here, though not so bold and sublime as many that I witnessed in my previous excursions, was, however, remarkably agreeable. A large extent of level land, through which the Tecaddie-caddie pursued its devious course, presenting at once an object of beauty and convenience, was bounded by gentle eminences, covered in some places with fern, and in others surmounted with lofty forests of pine; the fine verdure of the fern giving every where a rich freshness to the scene, and assuming the appearance of the most

luxuriant meadow ground. We found the quality of the soil in this place to vary considerably, and particularly between the head of the cove and a forest that we entered about six miles distant; some of it was dry and gravelly, some wet and swampy, but the greater part consisted of a fine black vegetable mould, producing on its surface the richest fern I ever beheld, and it appeared to me exceedingly well adapted for agriculture. The whole of this tract was well watered, for we passed not less than six small streams.

Before we reached the forest, our companions, who, like the rest of their countrymen, had stomachs that were perpetually craving, would rest themselves twice to have more kiki, and we knew very well from previous experience, that while they felt this voracious -desire for food, to urge them to proceed, would be perfectly useless. Soon after we entered the wood, they all halted together, and six of them danced and sung a composition in honour of Mr. Marsden, whose name they frequently repeated: this demonstration of their regard was very grateful to my friend, and I was much pleased myself with the sentiments it be-

spoke. We experienced the same annoyance in our progress through this wood, as we did in the forest at Wycaddee, the underwood being equally troublesome, crossing and intersecting the path in every direction; besides, we had to get over a stream running in the middle of it, which was attended with some difficulty. The trees in this forest were not diversified in their species, consisting chiefly of two kinds, and some of them were the largest I had ever seen, or probably that are to be met with in any part of the known world. A species of pine, called by the natives totarra, excited our astonishment, from the bulk and height to which it grew. We measured some of the trees, and found them to be from thirty to three and thirty feet in circumference, growing to the height of one hundred feet and upwards before they branched out, and all perfectly straight. The quantity of solid timber that one of these trees must supply is immense. The totarra has a singular bark, which grows very thick, and is divided the whole way up by horizontal streaks separated from each other by a space of about two feet; its leaf is small and narrow, and I could perceive no traces of resin or turpentine oozing from it.

Of the smaller trees of this species, the natives hollow out their canoes, which they build on the plan I have already described. The towha, another species of the pine, though not so large as the totarra, grew here at the same time to a considerable size, and the forest abounded with it. This tree has likewise a small and narrow leaf, but its bark is thin and quite smooth; it bears a berry which is eaten by the natives.

In the midst of the wood we overtook an old woman returning to her village, loaded with a basket of flax; the poor creature gazed on us with astonishment, this being, I should suppose, the first time of her life that ever she beheld a white man. She did not, however, enter into conversation with our party, nor ask any questions about the packaha; but after gazing on us for a few moments, passed on with wonder pictured in her countenance. Soon after we got out of the forest, we came to a village belonging to Tariar, a petty chief, whom we had seen on board the vessel. The situation of this village was extremely pleasant, being built upon the banks of the Wyetanghee, a fine river, and the same that forms the waterfall I have before noticed. Detached a little

way from the village, there rose a lofty hill, covered with pines, and on the top of it was built the hippah belonging to the chief, to which, in time of hostilities, the inhabitants were accustomed to retire. Before we approached the village, Shunghi, to convince his countrymen that we were friends, fired off his pistol in the air, and immediately the women, whom we had long known as propitious heralds, answered the signal by shouts of haromai, haromai. Our conductor happened to meet here an old woman, who was either one of his friends or relations; and touching noses with her very affectionately, he wept over her for some moments, and felt, or seemed to feel, the strongest emotions of excessive joy. Tariar was absent, as were most of his people, on our arrival; but we met with one of his seven wives, (for he had actually that number,) and from her appearance, I should imagine that she was not the favourite of the seraglio. Our party, who could eat everlastingly, sat down again to indulge their insatiable appetites, while my friend and myself, who had tasted no food since we left the ship, prepared now to get ourselves some refreshment. Shunghi very opportunely shot a

duck, which he presented to us, and being supplied with potatoes by the villagers, we had all we could desire for an excellent repast. Mr. Marsden and myself commenced our cooking operations with great alacrity; and having brought some tea and sugar with us from the vessel, with an iron pot to boil the water, we were enabled to regale ourselves with a beverage that was both grateful and exhilarating. While we were enjoying our repast, a chief with some of his followers from a neighbouring village, came up, and saluting our friends in a very cordial manner, seated themselves beside us; they talked with much gaiety, and endeavoured, as well as they could, to make themselves intelligible to us, while they observed all our motions with earnest attention. Taking leave of these friendly villagers, we crossed the Wyetanghee, the natives carrying us over on their backs; and entered an uneven, and in some places, a rugged and stony country. Proceeding to the distance of about four miles, we came to another forest, near the skirts of which were some extensive plantations of coomeras and potatoes, the property of Kangeroa: our friends shewed us these with a great deal of exulta-

tion, and they might certainly well indulge a feeling of this sort; for their industry had brought into cultivation no less than from thirty to forty acres, and the extreme regularity that was observable in the whole process, did much credit to their taste for agriculture. The plants were all disposed in the most perfect order, and the weeds rooted out with minute exactness. As we advanced about half a mile through the forest, the ground began to rise gradually till we got out of it, and found ourselves near the summit of a lofty hill, where was built Wyemattee, the hippah of Kangeroa, and the place of our destination. Here we were now to behold quite a new scene, and one that gave us a higher idea of the ingenuity of these people, as well as of their resources, and their near approach to civilization, than any we had hitherto witnessed. This scene was the town of Wyemattee, which I shall immediately take occasion to describe, observing here, that the sight of it filled me with astonishment when I reflected on the character and description of its inhabitants. We arrived at this interesting place at so very late an hour that it was impossible for us to gratify our curiosity to view it before the next day; so after we had eaten some

potatoes which Shunghi had got ready for us, we retired to rest, wrapping ourselves up in our great coats, and lying down upon some clean mats that our friendly host had spread for us himself in his hospitable dwelling. Satisfied of the good intentions and sincere friendship of this worthy chief, we felt no difficulty in resigning ourselves to sleep under his protection; and fatigued by the salutary exercise of the day, we sunk in a few moments into profound repose, which continued through the night without interruption.

The morning of the 10th of January was announced to our enraptured ears by the swelling notes of the woodland choristers, and never either before or since did I hear such delightful harmony. Rising together at an early hour, we fancied ourselves for the moment in some enchanted ground, while the forest seemed to ring with the mellow warblings of nature, and a thousand feathered songsters poured their soft throats in responsive melody. There was however one bird that was distinguished from all the rest, as well by the compass and variety of its notes, as by their incomparable sweetness. This bird, which has been brought to Port Jackson, and highly prized there, is called by the colonists

the organ bird, and is, I believe, peculiar to New Zealand: the notes of the nightingale, however exquisite, are in my opinion much inferior to the song of this bird, and I never thought before that either the grove or forest could boast of such a vocal treasure. While we continued listening to this thrilling symphony, the sun, just emerged above the horizon, was gilding with its rays the tops of the hills, and gradually extending over the rich landscape, it shed its enlivening influence on every object around, while the joyful natives hailed its return as the signal for them to resume their customary pursuits. The surrounding country here had all that sublime scenery that we observed in other parts; the forests being noble and stately, the hills chequered and picturesque, and the distant mountains bold and lofty.

From the imperfect view we had of Wyemattee on the preceding evening, we were so much struck with its appearance, that we wished as soon as possible to examine it more closely, and we now, with eager curiosity, walked out for that purpose. The first objects that attracted our notice, as being the most prominent, were the fortifications; and these might well deserve the

term, for they displayed in their construction a skill and ingenuity most surprising, for persons so totally ignorant of all principles of science. The fortifications we had hitherto seen round the towns we had visited, compared with these, evinced neither design nor execution, appearing only as the clumsy devices of wild barbarians, while by a parity of contrast, the others would seem finished specimens of civilized workmanship. A strong palisading of heavy posts placed quite close to each other, and rising above twenty feet in height, formed the first bulwark that encompassed the town; the entrance was by a postern five feet in height and two in breadth, on the outside of which were some carvings of human heads, cut out with all the semblance of stern vengeance, and seeming to grin defiance at the rude invaders. Within the palisading, and attached to it all round, was a strong back of wicker-work, which the inhabitants had constructed for the purpose of obstructing the lances of their enemies; but at convenient intervals they had made port-holes, through which they could keep up a fire of musketry upon the besiegers. At a short distance from this strong rampart, on the inner side, was a space

of about thirty feet, where they had dug a moat, which being filled with water, defended that part of the hill that was most accessible to external assault; and behind this moat they had thrown up a steep mound, on which was constructed another line of palisades, of the same height and strength as the former. The moat, which was at least nine feet in breadth, defended an entrance formed by another postern; and between this and the last approach to the town, there was an intermediate space of eighty feet, at the extremity of which the hill was cut down perpendicularly about fifteen feet; and on its summit rose another row of palisading that encircled the hippah and completed the works.

Such was the fortress which these rude natives had the ingenuity to raise; and my readers, I am persuaded, will admit, that a people, who under circumstances so unfavourable, could prove themselves capable of such extraordinary labours, should not be suffered to remain neglected any longer, but should have their genius elicited in the various pursuits of culture and civilization.

Thus strongly fortified, the inhabitants, if well supplied with provisions, would be

enabled to hold out against any attacks of their enemies, however violent; what they would have most to apprehend, would be the setting fire to the palisades; but even should this event happen, they could retire to the summit of the hill, where the advantage of situation would give them a decided superiority; and should the invaders gain that, they might still defend themselves, at least for some time, within the enclosures round the houses, each of which was encompassed by a strong barrier of stakes. Shunghi informed us that this place was attacked in the course of the summer before, by the tribe of Wangeroa, who made a most desperate assault on it, but that he and his people had succeeded in repelling them, after killing great numbers of them during the attack. On entering the town, we found it to extend over the whole summit of the hill; and the number of houses, including the stores for their coomeras and potatoes, were more than one hundred, the population being from two to three hundred souls. But we saw very few of the inhabitants, the greater part of them having gone down to the sea coast to procure their winter's stock of fish. In the centre of the town we were shewn the seat

or throne of Kangeroa. It was curiously shaped, and raised upon a post about six feet from the ground, with some fanciful devices of grotesque carving. There was a step to it to assist him in getting up, and it served him also for a foot-stool. On this throne, the chief, elevated above his people, dispensed his laws and issued his commands, with as much authority as the most absolute potentate in Europe. Convenient to this seat was another, appropriated exclusively for the use of the Queen Dowager, Kangeroa's mother; and close to it a small box to hold her majesty's provisions.

The houses here were erected on a similar plan with those I have before described; but the inhabitants, to preserve their winter's supply of food, had built a good many storehouses, which were better constructed and much more commodious than their dwellings. I observed one particularly, that was as well built, both in point of comfort and convenience, as any of the huts in New South Wales, that serve as a residence for our people. It had a door spacious enough to admit a person through it without stooping; a plan, that I am surprised they neglect in their dwellings, where ingress is so difficult

through the narrow apertures, that it is always a laborious task to attempt it. The roof of this store-house projected more than three feet from the walls, forming a viranda round the dwelling; and to admit a free circulation of air, they had made in it two large openings. The interior of this structure was also well planned, and partitioned into two convenient apartments. The door frame was a curious specimen of the progress of their attempts in carpenter's work; the top and bottom of the frame were mortised to the sides and pinned very firmly, and from the sides projected a strong ledge, through which they had cut two holes for the bolt that served as a fastening to the door. Round the house was paling, that stood about ten feet distant from it, and was formed like the rest of strong stakes. I observed near one of their dwellings a capacious vessel in the shape of a flat-bottomed boat; and in this was steeping the bark of a tree called enou, from which they extract a black colour that serves them to dye their flax with. This vessel was very neatly made, and on measuring it, I found it to be six feet long, eighteen inches in diameter, and twelve inches deep. Shunghi shewed us some immense spears

made of a hard and close-grained wood of a dark colour; these measured no less than twenty-three feet in length, and were pointed with a piece of bone about nine inches long, nicely worked down, and fitted in at the extremity.

When we had satisfied our curiosity, by inspecting the fortifications and the town, we returned to the residence of our friend Shunghi; where having breakfasted in the English style, we set out immediately after to visit a lake of which we had heard a great deal from the natives. Passing through the western gate, we descended the hill, which was here nearly perpendicular, and striking into the forest that surrounded it on every side, we arrived after a walk of more than an hour at a fine open country, in extent about four square miles, and bounded by swelling hills covered with wood. The land was here extremely fertile, and coming to a village near the opposite confines of the tract, we discovered several luxuriant plantations, in which, besides potatoes and coomeras, there were also gourds, cabbages, turnips, and a little Indian corn. The chief, who was a young man, had a pleasing countenance, and appeared of a mild and gentle

disposition. He readily offered to accompany us to the lake, from which we were now not quite two miles distant; and on our way we had to pass through another wood, part of which the natives had cut down, and were burning off, for the purpose of cultivation. They applied themselves to their work with sedulous industry; collecting the stones together in heaps, to be carried off, and cultivating with much care every spot as they cleared it. I observed one of these spots that was planted very neatly, and bespoke the great pains they had taken; it was however stony, though the soil in general was remarkably rich.

Arriving at the lake, which was called by the natives Morberree, we were exceedingly gratified with the scene before us, and found it such as might amply repay the toil of a longer excursion. This lake was formed by a fine sheet of water, extending about eight miles in length from east to west, and four in breadth from north to south. The level ground on the opposite side was clear of timber, but rising at a considerable distance, it presented large tracts skirted with pine, and the landscape bore a strong resemblance to some of those beautiful pleasure grounds

in England, on which the owners bestow so much care and attention. Beyond these tracts, which were agreeably diversified by the striking irregularities of the scene, rose a chain of very high mountains, running from north to south, and covered with timber of a prodigious growth.

The natives informed us, that the lake abounded with fish, and shewed us two baskets of a circular form which they used for the purpose of catching them. These were made of the bark of a tree called manghee manghee, and were ingeniously contrived; the mouth of the basket narrowing like that of a mouse trap, so that when once the fish had made its way in, it could not possibly escape. It was, I thought, very similar to the basket used by the country people among us, for catching eels. Shunghi, getting into a canoe, succeeded in shooting a wild duck for us, and we saw several more flying about the lake: this fowl being here very plentiful, I wished to shoot as many as I could, and taking my gun, ventured on the lake in a small canoe; but it was so very badly made, and unsteady under me, that I was glad of the opportunity of getting safe out of it as soon as possible.

Should an extensive settlement be ever formed in New Zealand by our people, and the Bay of Islands fixed upon as the principal harbour; the neighbourhood of this lake would form an admirable situation for the seat of government, and chief town of the colony. The extensive forests that line one side of it, would afford an immense quantity of timber, that might at a trifling expense be floated to the opposite bank, where, the ground being cleared to a considerable extent, the town might be built, and lands inclosed both for pasturage and husbandry. The soil here being luxuriant in the extreme, would produce the most abundant crops, and the labours of the industrious cultivator would be sure to be requited by a plentiful harvest. According to the natives, a river has its source in this lake, which after traversing the whole breadth of the island, takes a western course, and discharges its waters into the sea. Whether this is navigable or not, it was impossible for me to ascertain, not having an opportunity of seeing it; but as the natives asserted that canoes were constantly plying upon it, I should think it probable that boats at least, if not small vessels, might effect a passage upon it to

some distance. A communication being thus kept up with the interior of the island, the advantages to the back settlements would be very considerable; as it would afford them at all times an easy conveyance for their produce to the principal market, while they might bring back in the same manner whatever necessaries they required. But besides this consideration, there are others which, in the event of the island being colonized, might recommend this place as the most suitable for erecting the town upon. Its convenient and central situation, the peculiar richness of its soil, the proximity of all the necessaries for building; these, and several other local advantages, would conspire to render it the most eligible spot that could be selected. I might also add, that the forests, while affording the most excellent timber for building, could easily be converted into well-cultivated fields and gardens; and the lake, yielding an abundant supply of fish, with water of the best quality, would be rendered doubly valuable to the inhabitants. The distance of this place from the harbour would form no material objection: this being only fifteen miles, a road might easily be constructed from the head of the cove, and over level

ground the whole way, if we except three hills of such inconsiderable height as to offer no obstacle worth regarding. From the entrance of the harbour to the head of the cove, may be estimated at about twenty miles; and shipping can proceed up fifteen or sixteen miles, and find secure anchorage. The land carriage therefore would be very trifling; and the necessity of it might be ultimately superseded by a junction of the lake with the Tecaddie-caddie, which passes within five miles of it, and could be made navigable for small craft to the head of the cove. A settlement thus advantageously situated, and under a mild and equitable government, would very soon become flourishing, and enabled to supply itself in abundance, not only with the necessaries of life, but even with many of its luxuries. The advantages too resulting from such a colony to the natives themselves, must be obvious. A spirit of civilized industry would be diffused all over the country, and they would be gradually initiated into all our pursuits; while being protected in their persons and property by the wholesome laws of our inestimable constitution, they would have nothing to apprehend; and providing for

their wants in conscious security, their physical comforts would always keep pace with their moral improvement. Should the event, which I can now only speak of as contingent, be ever realized, this consideration will not fail to have its proper weight with the political economist. But I would by no means have the colonists composed of such characters as form the European population of New South Wales. The convicts there are the most profligate and abandoned description of people in existence, and those crimes and vices for which they have been expatriated, adhere to them in their exile with pertinacious delinquency. Such men would rather defeat than promote the object in view, by introducing a factitious contamination of morals among the natives, and instructing them in the most depraved practices by their own example. No, the settlers that I should suggest, would be those honest and industrious artisans and labourers, who have never been guilty of any crimes to banish them from their country, though they might be willing to leave it for one where they could procure the means of living with more convenience and facility. The present is perhaps of all others the moment when

many such could be found, and it will give me pleasure if these passing suggestions shall have attracted any notice to the subject, on which I shall take occasion to speak more at large in another place.

CHAPTER XII

CHAP. XII.

Return from Lake Morberree – Remark of Tui – Departure from a friendly village, and occurrences on the way – The Author and his friends arrive again at the residence of Shunghi – Arrival at the village of the chief Tarriar, with remarks on the land contiguous to it – Scrupulous observance of the taboo – Tattooing instruments, and manner of performing that operation; with its physical effects – The party joined by Duaterra-A boat race between him and Shunghi – Return to the ship – The missionaries settled in their new habitation – Inquiry into a charge of seduction, and the issue of it – Expedition to the river Thames, with the names and description of the persons composing it – Arrival at the Cavalles – Two canoes visit the ship – Duaterra's formidable reception of them – The Author accompanies Duaterra in pursuit of a thief – Incidents on that occasion, and return of the party.

LEAVING this delightful spot, we bent our course back to Wyemattee, and stopping at the little village where the natives had on our first approach received us so kindly, we experienced again the same proofs of their friendliness and hospitality. The wild duck that Shunghi had shot for us, was now boiled in the iron pot, and the villagers bringing us some potatoes as before, we fared

as well as we could desire. While we were thus comfortably regaling ourselves, and all the inhabitants of the village sitting round us, Tenana, of whom I have had hitherto little occasion to speak, but who, the reader will recollect, had been at Port Jackson, made a very sensible remark on the difference of hospitality perceptible between his own countrymen and the people of New South Wales. In New Zealand, said he, they give you plenty of kiki every where you come to; but at Parramatta, you may walk about all day long, and no person will offer you anything to eat. This remark was certainly just; and hence it is evident, that the poorer a people are, and the less capable of setting a defined value on property, the more open and hospitable will they always be found. The good chief for whom our visit was intended, was anxious to afford us the best treatment in his power, and procured a pig for us, which he had killed with his spear, and was to serve for our repast when we reached his hippah.

At this village, as at every other place I had yet visited, the people were quite astonished at the ticking of my watch, and the chieftain with his dependants unanimously pronounced it to be the Etua; and I was

looked upon, in consequence, as a most awful personage. But had they been farther advanced in refinement, and as bigotted as they were superstitious, I might have shared the fate of Galileo, and been immured in a dungeon as a sorcerer. In the plantations adjoining this village, I observed a plant very common in our West India settlements, where it is called tacca, and named by the natives of this island tarro. It does not appear to me that this plant is indigenous to New Zealand, but must, in my opinion, have been brought hither, either by Captain Cook or some other European navigator who has visited the country. This was the first time I had the opportunity of seeing this plant cultivated, and the care that was here employed in bringing it to perfection, was very great: the plants were disposed in rows, about eighteen inches apart, and the earth carefully dug up and pressed in round the roots of each of them.

Parting finally from these friendly natives, with whose hospitable treatment to us we had every reason to be satisfied, we continued our return; and in our way through the woods, Shunghi, who was always on the alert to provide something for us, shot a bird

called the kookoopa, of a blue plumage, and somewhat larger than our pigeon. His people, as soon as we arrived at Wyemattee, set about dressing the pig, which they took outside the town and baked with hot stones, in the same manner as they cooked their potatoes, which I have already described. While this operation was going forward, I rambled about the town, to observe any thing worthy of notice that might present itself; and I had not proceeded very far, when a young woman of an interesting appearance, whom I happened to meet, beckoned to me to accompany her to her warree or hut; an invitation I did not hesitate to accept: but it was, I must candidly confess, from the impulse of curiosity, rather than from any concern about having my gallantry impeached by a refusal. In the hut I found another female with an infant beside her, busily engaged in roasting the fern-root; I immediately sat down with them, and the young damsel who invited me, joining the other in her cookery, they both presented me with their simple fare, and were highly gratified at seeing me partake of it. Returning to the habitation of Shunghi, the pig was very soon brought smoking hot before

us, while the cooks began to cut it up with an experienced dexterity. I offered them my knife for this purpose, but they preferred to use a muscle shell, with which they divided it in a very short time; cutting it afterwards into as many pieces as they deemed expedient. A large portion of it they assigned to us; and we made an excellent dinner on it, the quality of the meat being very good, and the flavour given to it by the cooking, as exquisite as if it had been dressed in the kitchen of the most scientific epicure in Europe. The only objection to meat cooked in this way, is its looks, the exterior being always black; but by taking off the skin, this disagreeable appearance may be obviated. The juices are much better preserved in the meat by this mode of cooking than any other.

In about a quarter of an hour after we had finished our meal, and as we were walking about through the different fortifications, we observed Tenana and some of the other natives very busy round a fire, on which they had set our iron pot to boil. These friendly people, imagining we could never eat enough, were here making a stew for us of the bird that Shunghi had shot, and it

being ready in a few moments, we ate part of it, rather from a wish to gratify their solicitous hospitality, than any desire of provoking a fresh appetite by such a dainty. It was however a fine-flavoured bird, and well cooked. When we had eaten as much as we thought necessary, one of the natives appeared extremely anxious that I should accompany him to a distant part of the town; pointing to it with his finger, and desiring me to go with him. Curious to learn what could be his object for such importunate urgency, I complied with his wishes; several of the other natives attending me at the same time. My conductor, quite pleased that he had prevailed with me, moved on at a smart rate, and led me to that part of the fortifications where the hill was pared down; and where at an opening between the row of palisades that encompassed the town, they had laid the branch of a tree, extending horizontally to a distance of about two feet from the hill. Here the side of the hill was cut away about fifteen feet in depth, and I found that this place was set apart by the inhabitants for the accommodation of nature. The motive of my guide in bringing me hither was now apparent; for he supposed in his attentive

consideration, that a visit to some such place was rendered necessary by the quantity of food I had recently eaten. That I might thoroughly comprehend what the place was intended for, he got upon the pole, and standing on it like a bird on its perch, the attitude was too significant for me to mistake what it implied. I declined, however, his proffered attention, and returned back again without more delay. The reader will excuse my adverting to this circumstance, which would appear rather unseemly, if it did not shew a particular exception to the general habits of these people, which are dirty in the extreme. Cleanly however in this respect as the most polished of the European nations, and superior to many of them, they have places appropriated for the calls of nature in the outskirts of every hippah and village; and you are never disgusted with the sight of ordure either in or about their dwellings. Those houses also that are detached and insulated from the others, are furnished with a similar convenience at a suitable distance.

As night approached, Shunghi took us to another house belonging to him, where we were to sleep. This structure was used only for such accommodations as were prohibited

in the principal dwelling by the taboo, and was much exposed to the external air; which, penetrating through the openings of the roof, rendered it at night extremely cold. The heavy dew also which at this season of the year falls in every part of the island, descending upon us while we lay here, chilled us with its gelid moisture, and we found it impossible to resign ourselves to sleep. – Passing therefore a very disagreeable night, we welcomed the approach of the morning with sensations of real pleasure, and rising from a sleepless couch as soon as it began to dawn, we listened with the same rapture as on the morning before to the inspiring warblers of the forest.

No tribute that it is in my power to offer, could render justice to the friendly treatment and solicitous assiduities which in this visit we experienced from Shunghi; and being now anxious to return to Rangehoo, we set off at an early hour, January 11th, accompanied by the chief himself, Tenana, Widoua, and twenty of their people. Arriving on our way at Tarriar's village, we stopped to get breaklast; and setting the cooks to work, they prepared it in a very little time. It is surprising how expeditiously these people cook

their food in whatever way they dress it, and I have observed among them a peculiar quickness in all their movements, whenever their attention is directed to any particular purpose. This activity however is more perceptible when they are cooking, than upon any other occasion of rational employment; and I believe it may very justly be ascribed to their avidity for eating, which, as has been repeatedly noticed, is always insatiable. In proceeding to this village, we observed at irregular distances several patches of land that had been broken up for cultivation; but the soil most probably being exhausted, they were now left in a state of neglect: and different kinds of grasses had sprung up, and were growing wild upon the surface. Among these was the canary grass, which grew in great luxuriance, a species of the ray grass, and many others that we were unacquainted with. From this it may be seen how easily those lands in this country, which are at present over-run with fern, might be brought to produce grasses of all descriptions; and were the experiment tried, I doubt not but it would prove invariably successful, and that the island in general would afford as fine pasturage for sheep and black cattle as any

part of the known world: but this subject will demand my consideration in another place, where I shall advert to it more diffusely.

At the village we met four of Tarriar's wives, to whom we presented some tea, but these ladies refused to accept it, telling us they were "taboo taboo," an insuperable objection to receiving a gift from unhallowed mortals. The house of this chief was held equally sacred with his wives, and his scruples about any profane communication with it, were more tenacious and prohibitory than we had hitherto found in all the other places we had visited. Besides the rule against eating within its walls, any contact with it on the outside was deemed a most heinous violation of its mysterious attributes; and while I happened to put a bundle, containing some necessaries that we had brought with us, upon the roof of it, they all cried out taboo taboo, with indignant vehemence, and desired me to take it off immediately. Our friend Tenana, who had separated from us before we reached this place, now joined us, bringing with him a pig, which he gave us to understand we were to receive as a present; and a petty chief belonging to Shunghi,

had likewise one under his care for our use. We now proceeded with all the expedition we could make to the head of the cove, and reached it a good deal fatigued, after walking very smartly for three successive hours. It has not hitherto occurred to me to mention, that while at Wyemattee, Widoua, in a friendly manner, made each of us a present of a handsome mat; and one of the natives gave Mr. Marsden the fragment of a letter taken out of the Boyd, addressed to the unfortunate Captain Thompson.

The tide on our arrival at the head of the cove not being sufficiently high to admit of launching the canoe, we were obliged to wait for some time; and during this interval, Widoua set about painting the gunwales with red ochre mixed up in oil. The instrument he used for a brush was a tuft of feathers; and he laid on the composition very dexterously. One of our party shewed us the instruments that they tattoo with, and these had nothing particularly ingenious in their make; though much pains had been taken to render the execution very neat: they consisted of small pieces of bone worked down to an extremely acute point, and fastened at right angles to short pieces of wood.

I had the curiosity to present my wrist to him, in order to try the effect of the operation; when striking the instrument pretty smartly with a piece of wood, he formed a small puncture, that instantly started the blood; and I had no desire to make any further experiment. This process must be extremely painful on any part of the body, but how they can endure the torment of it on the face, is to me most surprising; particularly when I consider that it is an unnecessary infliction, and can serve no one purpose of obvious utility: having nothing to recommend it to these people but the absurd and preposterous notion of its being a most elegant embellishment, while on the contrary it makes them appear truly hideous. Making some inquiries concerning this operation, and their mode of bearing it, I found that they always submitted to it with alacrity; but the pain being so excruciating, they could only bear to have a small part done at a time, which generally took up two months to heal, when the process was resumed, and continued on at stated intervals till the whole was finished. It is to be hoped that this barbarous practice will be abolished in time among the New Zealanders; and that the missionaries will exert

all the influence they are possessed of to dissuade them from it. The mind revolts at the idea of seeing a fine manly race as any in the universe, thus shockingly disfigured; and producing associations similar to what may be imagined of so many fiends. It would appear to me that this operation, by irritating the system, produces very frequently several cutaneous diseases; and the writer of a respectable work, (An Account of the Tonga Islands,) which I have already taken occasion to notice with commendation, us of the same opinion; who, being himself a medical gentleman, must of course be more prepared to treat on the subject, than one who makes no pretensions to professional knowledge. This writer thus describes its physical effects on the people of Tonga, where, however, it is performed more generally over the body than at New Zealand.
"This operation causes that portion of the skin on which it is performed to remain permanently thicker. During the time that it is performed, but sometimes not for two or three months afterwards, swellings of the inguinal glands take place, and which almost always suppurate: sometimes they are opened with a shell before they point, which

"is considered the best treatment; at other times they are allowed to take their course." (See Account of the Tonga islands, vol. ii. p. 266.) It is evident, from what is here observed, that this practice has much stronger objections against it, than its disgusting appearance; but the prejudices of a people are not easily tampered with, and we should, I am persuaded, find it as impracticable a task to force these islanders out of their tattooing, were we to attempt so foolish a project, as the Czar of Russia did to despoil his subjects of their beards. Only remonstrance and persuasion can produce any effect on occasions like these.

On our way to the ship, we landed part of our company at the foot of one of those steep hills so common in this country, where was built a tolerably large hippah; and proceeded on with twelve people, three of whom were women. As we approached within about a league of the vessel, we were met by Duaterra, who was coming to us with provisions, having nearly the same number of men in his canoe. His object in setting out being only to bring us the provisions, he now joined us on our return; and the two canoes contested with each other which should

reach the vessel first. Our ladies were ready to take quite as active a part as the men in this boat race; and two of them who had infants, laid the little creatures very carefully on their pagatas or mats, at the bottom of the canoe, and prepared themselves for the paddle with emulative exertions. The air now resounded with the inspiring shouts of "toheah, paihah, ah heah etokee etokee," which were given out to the men by their respective chiefs, as well for the purpose of animating them to the contest, as to regulate the strokes of the paddles. I have before adverted to the astonishing exactness and unison with which the rowers ply on together; and I now witnessed an identity of cooperation even more remarkable than in the former instance. Though our party exerted themselves with indefatigable labour, Duaterra, by the time we had arrived within three or four hundred yards of the ship, had got ahead of us; and Shunghi, finding it unavailing to prolong the contest, yielded the palm to his adversary, who rested upon his paddles until we joined him. Both the canoes now made up to the vessel abreast of each other, the natives standing up brandishing their paddles and singing their war-song:

their gestures were all menacing and terrible, nor could I behold them without some feeling of alarm; though a little reflection might immediately inform me it was groundless. The women were no less violent in all their attitudes and movements than the men; they raved and roared with equal fury, and the distinction of sex appearing no longer visible, was completely lost in their convulsive excesses.

Upon getting on board, we found that the missionaries, with their families, had all gone on shore, and taken possession of their new habitation; and as the timber and stores were landed, and laid up in their proper places, we resolved on the following day to sail down to that part of the island where the Thames (a river so called by Capt. Cook) has its course; in order to explore the surrounding country. Should the wind, however, not prove favourable for this purpose, we determined on altering our course to the northward, and going into the harbour of Wangeroa, to bring round the large guns belonging to the Boyd, which George told us might be got up without much difficulty. But as our crew was very insufficient to protect the vessel in this expedition, we thought it better to entrust our-

selves entirely to the good faith of the friendly natives of the place where we now were; and engaging Duaterra and Korra-korra to accompany us, with as many of their people as might effectually deter any of the tribes from making an attack upon us, we reposed the fullest confidence in our escort, assured of their readiness to hazard, if necessary, their lives in our defence.

Going on shore in the afternoon, we found Mr. Kendall and Mr. Hall tolerably comfortable in their new dwellings: they had got a number of the natives busily employed in securing the roof against the rain; the sawyer was at work in cutting up the timber, and the smith in preparing a further supply of charcoal; nor was there a single individual on the premises who was not employed: so that the whole presented a scene of activity and cheerful exertion. Mrs. Hall had set Gunnah's wife to the wash-tub, where the lady was rubbing away the linen at a great rate; and for the first time of her life, enjoyed the luxury of soap and water. Though the wife of a rungateeda, she felt herself highly honoured by this employment; and imagined it, very probably, the most suitable of any that the packaha could assign to her. Many interest-

ing ideas occurred to me while I beheld the missionaries thus seated in their new residence, and preparing for the work of civilization in a land where never before was the least gleam of knowledge, except what nature instinctively supplied; and where man, roving about as a lawless denizen, acknowledged no authority except that of an individual barbarous as himself, who constantly led him on to deeds of carnage against his fellows, and taught him not only to satisfy his revenge with their destruction, but to crown it with a bloody banquet. In such a land it was that a few civilized beings were now going to reclaim a whole race to subdued and regular habits; and afford, at the same time, another proof of the immense superiority of mind over matter. I doubt not but this grand object will be much facilitated by the union which they will be enabled to effect among the different tribes in the vicinity of their district, who, in a short time, will form as it were the nucleus of civilization in the island.

We heard on this day a very unpleasant report, and which Mr. Marsden was determined to investigate minutely; for, if true, it would materially tend to alienate the affec-

tions of the natives from us, and might be eventually productive of serious consequences. It was complained of, by some of the people, that the son of the master of the vessel, a young man about eight and twenty years of age, had seduced the wife of our friend Gunnah; and defrauded her of part of the payment, for which she had consented to violate her duty to her husband. This shameful behaviour of the young man towards one of our most devoted adherents, and in contempt of Mr. Marsden's regulation, which precluded the ship's company from having any connection with the women of the country, would, if true, have been highly reprehensible; and my friend lost no time in making the necessary inquiries respecting it. Accordingly he had the young man called before him, and expressing his strong displeasure at what he had heard, asked him how he could be capable of such conduct, which he must have known was no less criminal than dangerous. But the other declared in positive terms his innocence of the charge, and desired to be immediately confronted with his accusers, who, he was sure, would fail completely in proving their allegations: he assured Mr. Marsden that he had never had a

connection either with the woman in question, or any other; requesting him, at the same time, to send for the complaining parties, that he might refute the imputation in the most satisfactory manner. He was told that the investigation he desired should take place without delay, as well for the sake of affording him an opportunity of exculpating himself, if his declaration was true, as of removing any unfavourable impression from the minds of the natives by reprobating it as it deserved, if it was false.

We went on shore on the morning of the 12th to hold this trial for crim. con.; and Duaterra was desired to summon the parties concerned for the plaintiff, while a great number of the natives attended as spectators; waiting the issue of the affair with evident curiosity. The woman with whom the complaint was supposed to have first originated was now brought forward to give her evidence, and from this the story assumed quite a different complexion. The lady, who, it appeared, was not the wife of Gunnah, but of his brother Wurree, taking her seat upon the ground, argued her cause with great vivacity, and urged her innocence in a very firm and spirited tone. Duaterra, taking upon himself

the office of interpreter, told us, that one of the sailors had given her a nail, and promised her another, if she would consent to grant him certain favours; but that she refused, and would not by any means be prevailed upon, telling him, she was the wife of another man, and consequently tabooed. She confessed, however, that she kept the nail the man had given her; but persisted in declaring that no criminal connection had taken place between them. She also acquitted the young man to whom the crime was imputed, of being the person who had made her the proposal; asserting in the most positive manner, that no overture of the kind had ever proceeded from him, and that she could point out the individual, if it was thought necessary. According to her testimony, the reason of such a report at all was, that the sight of the nail had aroused the jealousy of her husband, who questioned her how she came by so valuable an article; when she candidly acknowledged that one of the sailors had given it to her: but this, instead of quieting his suspicions, only inflamed them the more – "trifles light as air being, to the jealous, confirmations strong as proofs of holy writ;" and telling her, that the packaha never gave nails away

for nothing, he punished her imagined infidelity with a severe beating. As she maintained throughout that nothing criminal had passed between herself and the tar, Mr. Marsden did not think it expedient to proceed any further in the affair; and now, finding that the young man he had censured did not deserve the reproof, he was much pleased at being undeceived. But, however pertinacious the lady was in insisting upon her innocence, I am much inclined to believe that the husband had just grounds for his suspicions; and that the nail had effected an easy compliance.

Returning to the vessel, we took Duaterra and his party on board, armed with their spears and pattoo pattoos, and dressed in their war-mats; when weighing anchor at half-past three P. M. we stood out of the Bay, being joined at the heads by Korra-korra and his warriors, all armed and gaily decorated. When we had taken them on board, I proceeded to make out a list of our ship's company, arranging them in the following order; from which it will be seen how disproportioned was the number of civilized people to the savages; while, few as they were, the former could still venture to penetrate into the heart of this island, not only

fearless of any attack from the latter, but relying most firmly on their protection.

Thomas Hansen, master, Englishman.
Alexander Ross, mate, Scotchman.
Patrick Shaffery, seaman, Irishman.
Thomas Hamilton, cook, ditto.
John Hunter, carpenter, native of New Holland, born of English parents.
The Reverend Samuel Marsden, principal chaplain of New South Wales, Englishman.
John Liddiard Nicholas, passenger, ditto.

In all, six Europeans, and, including John Hunter, seven civilized people.

Savages.
Punnee, sailor, Otaheitan.
Tow, ditto, Bolabolan.
Warrakee, ditto, New Zealander.
Pahi, ditto, ditto.
Mowhee, ditto, ditto,
Duaterra, chief of Tippoonah and Rangehoo.
Turreogunnah, nephew of the late chief Tippahee.

Widoua, son of Kangeroa, the areekee of the western side of the Bay of Islands, and residing at Wyemattee, a district thirty miles to the north-west of Rangehoo.
Towah, son of the late chief Tippahee, by a chief's daughter taken prisoner at the river Thames, and possessing an inheritance at that place in right of his mother. Age, about fifteen, and a very fine lad.
Tohu, son of Mokah, a chief on the western side of New Zealand, opposite to the Bay of Islands.
Aroah, son of a priest at Wyemattee.
Inghah, son of Thu, a chief at Parro.
Henackee, grandson to Warrakee, a chief at Wyetanghee.

Warriors belonging to Duaterra
Tekokatowittee,
Cowhow,
Moureeweenuah,
Titte-kuah,
Tungho,
Tukithuro,

Korra-korra, chief of Parro, a district on the south-east side of the entrance of the Bay of Islands.
Thewranghee, brother of Korra-korra.
Tui, ditto.

Terraminuke, a lad ten years of age, son to the chief.
Petorehu, warrior belonging to Korra-korra, taken prisoner by this chief, and adopted into his tribe.
Tapoo, ditto.
Brodee, nephew to Shunghi.
Eckahi, son of Madu, at the Cowa-cowa.
Themorangha, chief of Hekorangha, twenty miles to the westward of Tippoonah.

Total savages......28
Civilized people..... 7
Total of both......35

Here was such a disparity as might deter us from ever venturing our lives and the property of the vessel to the good faith of these people, if we had not known them to be susceptible of the finest feelings of the heart, when properly treated: cannibals they were, it is true, but what then? They devoured only the bodies of such as had provoked their vengeance, and it was always our study to conciliate their regard. People, before they indulge misanthropic prejudices against their fellow-men, should consider well if, under

374 VOYAGE TO

other circumstances, and by a different mode of acting towards them, the persons whom they denounce as implacable might not assume quite a new character; and become, instead of being objects of abhorrence, admired for those qualities which harmonize and cement the various orders of regulated society.

We stood off Cape Brett during the whole of the night, the weather having settled into a perfect calm; and on Friday, January 13, the wind being contrary to our sailing to the river Thames, we steered a due west course, with the intention of proceeding to Wangeroa. But our friend Korra-korra expressed a good deal of disappointment at our adopting this resolution; he was particularly desirous of going to the Thames, and was, I believe, under some apprehensions of the Wangeroan people, whose name appears formidable to the different other tribes in this island. But he was alarmed only lest we might be taken by surprise, and overpowered by superior numbers; for none of his countrymen possessed more personal courage, or could more readily enter the lists with the boldest warrior. Indeed, he carried this quality so far as to be a terror in the combat; and it required an antagonist frantic and ungovern-

able as himself, to oppose him with any probability of success. At three P. M. we entered the channel that runs between the main land and the largest island of the Cavalles. The soundings here we found to be twelve, eleven, and seven fathoms, with a sandy bottom; in which last, from the wind shifting, we were obliged to anchor, after several unsuccessful tacks to get through.

We were not long here before we observed two canoes coming off from one of the islands, and making towards the vessel with their usual celerity. Duaterra, who was determined to assume a formidable attitude on the occasion, and make a display of all his military strength, immediately took upon himself the office of commander-in-chief over the whole of his countrymen; and distributing muskets to some, pistols to others, and cutlasses and spears to the rest, he ordered them all to conceal themselves by lying down upon the deck until the canoes should come alongside, when on a given signal they were instantly to jump up and rush to the sides of the vessel with shouts of defiance. These orders they strictly obeyed; yelling and roaring at a furious rate, and presenting their arms to the astonished

natives with all the horrid gestures of savage war, while they concluded with reiterated screams of insolent hostility. Our poor friends in the canoes, who had visited the ship when we were here before, appeared evidently terrified by this menacing display; and not conscious of having provoked our enmity, they knew not how to account for the scene before them. They surveyed us for some time with marks of alarm and trepidation, and seemed hesitating whether they should at once betake themselves to flight, or abide all the consequences; when the hostile demonstration being removed, and the clamour ceasing, they were happily relieved from their fears, and recovering their confidence, ascended the ship's side with great alacrity. Upon my asking Duaterra his reasons for giving these inoffensive people such a singular reception, he replied, that he did so in order that they might on their return, report among the rest of the natives that the vessel was well manned and protected, the belief of which would inspire too much dread for any of the tribes to run the risk of attacking us. We had very soon another canoe alongside, that met with the same reception.

When these canoes had left us, we found that one of the natives having taken a particular liking to the carpenter's chisel, had contrived to carry it off with him unobserved, regardless of its being the property of another; a consideration which he could not reflect upon, when an instrument so curious and useful in his eyes, was to be obtained by despising it. I could not help smiling at the indignation manifested by all his countrymen on board, so soon as the theft was made known; and they spoke of it with as much detestation as though they themselves had never been guilty of similar practices. "Tungata tihi (a thief) no good," they all exclaimed with one voice; and Duaterra said, if we would lend him the boat, he would engage to recover the chisel. In this he was immediately indulged, and twelve of his people being armed with muskets and pistols, and carrying a cutlass himself, he got with them into the boat, vowing vengeance against the tungata tihi, if the ill-gotten booty were not instantly restored. Curious to see the issue of this event, I resolved to accompany them; but upon examining the muskets previously, I found that none of them were loaded, and mentioning

the circumstance to Duaterra, the chief replied, that it was of no consequence; for, said he, "as soon as New Zealand man see musket presented at him, he run away;" a plain proof of their terror of fire-arms. We rowed about two miles from the ship, to an island whence they said they had seen the two canoes set out. Here we came to a point of land that was entirely concealed from the view, except a small part towards the extremity, where it projected forward; and my companions being too impatient to wait the delay of a circuitous course, thought they would lose too much time by going round it, which the place of landing rendered necessary; so the whole of them, except Gunnah and Inghah, jumping into the water, waded through it up to their middle, and reached the shore in a very short time. Heedless of every thing but the detection of the thief, they never once thought of me, whom they left with their two countrymen, in the boat, and endeavouring with considerable difficulty to prevent it from being swamped, which I dreaded every moment would be the case, the surf running very high, and our situation being extremely perilous. I now began to regret that my

curiosity had led me to proceed on this expedition; nor did I receive much assistance from Inghah in this dangerous moment. He was so uncommonly stupid in all his endeavours, and so very awkward in following the directions I gave him, that he put me quite out of temper; and rating him most vehemently, I made him ply all his strength with as much effect as his dull comprehension would permit. Gunnah, however, formed a perfect contrast to this man, so far as regarded the capacity and understanding of both; he not only conceived immediately the movements I wished to make, but suggested some himself that were very skilful, and I succeeded at length, by his dexterous cooperation, in bringing the boat round the point, and abreast of the village where the delinquent was supposed to reside. By this time night had come on, and the moon not having yet risen, all the light we had was derived from the countless multitude of stars that bespangled the heavens; and leaping on shore, I directed my course to where I heard a great deal of clamour and loud talking, Here I found six or seven of the people who had visited us in the morning, surrounded by their indignant countrymen, and nearly

frightened out of their wits. The poor creatures, the moment they saw me, came up with a trembling pace to shake hands, and assured me they had not stolen any thing; pointing at the same time to an island, where they said the people resided who had purloined the chisel, and who had returned from the ship together with themselves in another canoe. I told them, that to ask for any thing was very proper, but to steal any thing, very bad; and that while we readily gave away such articles as we could conveniently spare, we would never suffer ourselves to be defrauded of them by theft, but would punish the offenders most severely. To this they unanimously replied, that I was nuee nuee miti, (very good) and that the tungata tihi was nuee nuee kackeeno, (very bad.) Duaterra and his party being now satisfied that these were not the people who had been guilty of the offence, wished to proceed to the other island, but I thought it better not to prolong a search which I knew would not be attended with success; and taking into the boat a number of small sharks which we got from the affrighted natives, we left their little island, and removed their apprehensions by our

departure. While returning to the ship, Gunnah amused his companions by relating to them how angry I had been with Inghah, at which they all laughed heartily; how I came to know that I was the subject of their conversation, was by their frequent repetition of the words New Zealand, the name they had given me upon my first arriving among them, and by which they always distinguished me while I remained.

CHAPTER XIII

CHAP. XIII.

Departure from the Cavalles – Mirth of Duaterra's warriors – The New Zealanders addicted to falsehood – An instance of it in a groundless story related by Korra-korra – The ship arrives at Bream Head – Is visited by a neighbouring chief – Duaterra's hostile display before him, and his motives for it – Arrival of more visitors from the shore – The ship proceeds on her course and enters the river Thames – Anchors there at some distance from its mouth – Shoupah, the areekee, comes on board, and receives presents – His extensive power and warlike character – His allies, and the expedition they were then going upon – The ship sails up towards his district – Is delayed by a violent wind, which Korra-korra curiously accounts for – Visited by the chief Phiti – Gunnah's traffic – Arrival at Shoupah's village – The men all absent from it – A frightful mourner found there – The Author and his friends visit the residence of Phiti – Trade commenced with the natives – Traffic in slaves carried on in New Zealand – Return to the vessel – Phiti and his friends repeat their visit on board – Their mirthful departure – Contradictory opinions of Duaterra and one of his countrymen respecting them.

A BREEZE springing up from the northwest on Saturday the 14th, and which would have prevented us from entering the harbour of Wangeroa, we resolved to alter our course, and steer back for the river Thames; thus affording Korra-korra the highest gratification,

for he had an insuperable objection to visit George and his tribe, though he consented to accompany us. We therefore weighed anchor at ten A. M. and sailing close in with the shore, found ourselves at five P. M. off Cape Brett, the course from the Cavalles to this place being due east. Duaterra's people were a source of constant amusement to us the whole way; they indulged in play and merriment among each other with the most perfect good humour; and though in their trials of strength they frequently threw each other down, and brandished their patoo patoos, as if going to dash one another's brains out, still no accident occurred, and it never provoked any thing like a serious contest on either side. Eight of these warriors throwing off their mats, commenced singing and dancing; the appearance they made was singularly ludicrous, but too indecent for me to give a description of it in detail.

Korra-korra and his people sung a very plaintive dirge, composed, as he told me, to commemorate the tragical death of a man belonging to his tribe; who being killed by some people from the river Thames, had his bead taken off, and his body cut up into small pieces, and thus devoured. The notes

of this air were marked in a peculiar degree with a tender melancholy, and it was not sung in parts, but by the whole of them together, in a low and mournful tone of voice.

Among the moral vices to which many of the New Zealanders are prone, may be reckoned the odious practice of lying, in which they too, frequently indulge; though, at the same time, it must be understood, that there are here persons capable of as much veracity as may be found in any other part of the world. Korra-korra told us a long story, which had not the least foundation in truth, about a design that he said was entertained of cutting off the ship while she was lying at the Cowa-cowa. According to this tale, it appears that he was informed by Warrakee, that Madu, a man living in the same district with Pomaree, was very much dissatisfied with the payment we had made him for his timber; and complained that the men employed in cutting it down, and bringing it to the ship, had received nothing for their trouble. Being quite indignant at such illiberal dealing on our part, he talked, as this story informed us, of surprising the vessel, and killing all the people on board; and would have carried his intention into effect

on the day Mr. Marsden and myself were at Parro, but for the spirited interference of old Tarra, who declared that every vessel coming to his side of the Bay, should receive the fullest protection; and that his authority with the natives was much too powerful to be disputed. But Pomaree, he said, was the chief instigator to this meditated atrocity, and urged the other on to it by all the suggestions he could devise. The character of Pomaree might certainly give considerable sanction to the truth of this story; but Mr. Marsden, before he could lend his unqualified belief to it, inquired of Tui how far it was correct; when that candid young man freely declared, in his own favourite expression, that it was "all gammon," and that several of his countrymen were too much addicted to henerecka, i. e. to telling lies. The falsehood of these people is seldom of a harmless nature; and it appears to me that they practise it only for the sake of creating alarm by some unexpected tale of fearful import, and thus rendering others miserable, without any advantage to themselves; but more frequently to serve their own interested purposes.

At six o'clock on the morning of the 15th, having made but little way during the night.

we found ourselves directly in front of a spot called by navigators the Poor Knights, and consisting of an island, with three rocks of a grotesque shape, ranged in a parallel line, at a short distance from it. At three P. M. we passed Bream Head, a remarkable promontory, having several pointed rocks on its summit, and to the northward of it a low piece of land with a fine sandy beach. The distance between this and the Poor Knights I estimated at about seven leagues. Bream Head lies in lat. 35 deg. 46" S. and forms the northern head of an extensive bay of the same name. At a little distance off the mouth of this bay is a cluster of small islands, called from some fanciful assimilation the Hen and Chickens. The course from Cape Brett to this bay, is S. S. E. and small vessels may keep in close to the shore the whole distance. Between nine and ten o'clock we were visited by a canoe from the shore, bringing a chief, who was a venerable old man, with three of his followers, and a woman whose curiosity induced her to accompany them. A rope was immediately thrown over to them, as soon as they came close enough; but just as the old man was ascending the side of the vessel with youthful agility, Duaterra and all

his people, who were lying concealed, rushed forward with furious impetuosity, and setting up their horrid yells as before, presented the points of about a dozen spears at his breast, besides a great number of pistols and muskets; which so alarmed the poor man, that, unable to retain his hold, he fell back in his canoe, and very nearly upset it. In this posture he remained, staring wildly at our warriors, and hardly conscious whether he was dead or alive, till Korra-korra, who knew him very well, bade him dismiss his fears and come on board, which he did, after some hesitation, but in such a state of trembling terror, that he shook from head to foot; and it was with much difficulty I could persuade him to come and speak to Mr. Marsden in the cabin. He was a fine old man, and the chief of a district called Tudukackah, which lies along the coast opposite to the Poor Knights, and abounds with excellent timber. The other men came upon deck, and though much alarmed, soon recovered themselves, while nothing could release their chief from his dreadful apprehensions, and he stood palpitating the whole time under the effects of the shock he had received: his stay, however, was not long, for he appeared very

happy to get away as soon as possible, and left us as though he would never again repeat his visit. The woman did not come on board, but staying in the canoe, regarded the panic of the others with perfect indifference, not seeming to be at all alarmed herself. As all this furious demonstration of our military guard, appeared to me not only unnecessary but extremely cruel towards this old man, I spoke to Duaterra respecting it, and told him he had nearly frightened the poor chief to death, and that he ought not to have done so to a man of his age, and one who was seemingly very inoffensive. But he gave me the same reason for it as before, and added, that the old man deserved very well to be frightened to death, repeating my words with pointed acrimony. Though the knowledge Duaterra had of the disposition of his countrymen must of course have been better founded than ours, still I cannot free myself from the idea, that in this instance, as in many others, he wished to enhance his own importance with the rest of the natives, and to awe them into a particular respect for his authority, by shewing them that he was entrusted with the protection of the vessel, which, as well as his close alliance with us, he would fain impress

upon their minds by these terrifying manoeuvres.

All the ship's company were assembled by order of Mr. Marsden at ten in the morning, to attend divine service, and the warriors behaved during its celebration with perfect good order. At eleven, another canoe came alongside, with six young men in it, who received the same electric salute as the others; but three of them had been on board the vessel while she was lying at the Cowa-cowa, and now recognizing among our warriors some of their old friends, their alarm subsided the moment they discovered them; but the rest of their companions evinced on the occasion both fear and astonishment. In about three hours after, we saw two canoes coming from near Bream Head, when steering towards them, we observed in the largest of them, held up on the point of a spear, a piece of printed cotton that Mr. Marsden had sent as a present to the chief of Bream Bay, during the time we were lying at the Cowa-cowa. When these canoes came alongside, Duaterra did not neglect his warlike display, which making the people in their canoes rest upon their paddles, they regarded us for some time with fixed and thoughtful attention,

apparently more expressive of surprise than alarm. These, when our warriors had ceased their din, shewed no dismay whatsoever; and they had brought off to us as much fish as served all our people. They told us that in getting round Bream Head, if we would fire off one of the great guns, their chief would come and visit us; this we did accordingly, but no canoe approached.

At eight P. M. we passed Point Rodney, which runs out in a low and narrow neck of land, forming the northern entrance to the river Thames; and across the extensive opening of this river lie the Barrier Isles, the most western one of which is called by the natives Shouthuroo, and the adjoining one Outhahah, on which, at that time, a considerable chief named Coreo, had his residence. These islets produced, as we were informed, an abundance of flax and timber.

Going upon deck on Monday the 16th at five A. M. I found that we had got to some distance up the river; on both sides of us we observed several small islands, lying close to the shore, and parallel with it all along. These, I should suppose, would afford most excellent shelter for shipping, the interjacent places being well secured

against the weather. We sailed up this river, or bay, as it may more properly be termed, with the intention of entering the fresh-water stream; but when we had got within a league of its entrance, the wind blowing strong, and the water becoming shoaly, we deemed it prudent to proceed no further, and reverting our course, we stood down the bay. On each side of the entrance of the freshwater stream, we saw some large swampy tracts of land covered with pines, and continuing our retrograde course to some distance, we anchored in four fathoms water on a muddy bottom, about two miles from the western side, and eight from the entrance of the abovementioned stream. I should have observed, that while we were yet working up the bay, two canoes approached the ship, in one of which was Shoupah, the areekee of this part of the country. Apprehensive seemingly of our intentions, he kept for some time at a convenient distance, while Themorangha held a long discourse with him; and Korra-korra, by desire of Mr. Marsden, told Duaterra he had better omit his alarming salute on this occasion; but he replied, that he himself knew best what was proper to be done, and

would not be dissuaded from what he thought necessary. He therefore brought all his people forward in the same manner as before; but their hostile manoeuvres did not last so long as in the former exhibitions, nor were they so astounding in their confusion.

When this turbulent ceremony was over, a further conference took place between Themorangha and Shoupah, in which the latter was probably assured of safety, and told he had nothing to apprehend. The result of this was, that the areekee, bringing his canoe alongside, he and his son, by whom he was accompanied, came upon deck with apparent confidence. This chief, who appeared about the same age with Tarra, was in his person the finest and most venerable looking old man I ever beheld; in stature he rose above the tallest of his countrymen; and his strength, though impaired by age, was yet extraordinary. In his countenance there was a thoughtful seriousness that bespoke him of a meditative cast of mind; and in his deportment a solemn gravity, which, even more than his high rank, served to distinguish him from all the others, while it involuntarily commanded that respect and veneration

which it was impossible to withhold. Mr. Marsden made him and his son presents of printed cotton, plane irons, and fish-hooks; for which they gave him in return two very elegant mats of a curious texture. They soon forgot the formidable appearance of hostility presented to them at the commencement, and were much pleased with their reception on board. Their visit, however, was but short; and as they returned, they rowed to the other canoe, the people of which, from the seeming resistance we offered, were afraid to come alongside, and now returned back in company with their chief.

Shoupah, from what we could discover from our warriors, was by far the most considerable chief we had yet met with; his authority reaching from this place as far as Bream Bay, a great extent in such a country to be under the power of one individual. Contrary to the usual practice of the areekees, he always commanded his warriors in person, and was accounted, notwithstanding his advanced age, one of the bravest men in New Zealand; his name being formidable all over the northern part of the island. He was to proceed on the ensuing day with a large expedition to attack

some tribes at the East Cape, and was joined by a considerable body of men from the western side, who came as auxiliaries, and whose canoes we saw lying on the beach. Duaterra informed us, that these auxiliaries were a warlike and ferocious race; and that it would be very unsafe for us to venture among them, as he had no doubt but that they would cut us all off without hesitation, their cruelty being proverbial in the country. They were formerly accustomed, he said, to make frequent incursions into Shoupah's territory, till at length the areekee found it necessary to form an alliance with them, by giving his daughter in marriage to their chief; ever since which time they remained faithful to his interest, and readily assisted him in carrying on his wars. Their patient endurance of labour and fatigue was astonishing. Their canoes they had brought over land, a distance of not less than fifty miles through a rugged and uneven country; and their mode of transporting them, Duaterra told us, was by dragging them with ropes upon rollers: and as they contained all their stock of provisions, which was a heavy load, this plan must have been as tedious as it was toilsome. The distance they had to

paddle round to the East Cape, was at least a hundred miles; and their coming so far to attack a people, who in all probability had never done any act to provoke their resentment, and were obnoxious merely because they were capable of offering some resistance, shews to what lengths ambition is carried, even among savages, and what difficulties are cheerfully encountered from the desire of plunder and devastation. This truth has been exemplified in New Zealand at various intervals, no less than in Europe, which has been deluged in blood for the last five-and-twenty years; and the only difference between the memorable expedition that passed the Dnieper never to return, and the noteless horde that proceeded to the East Cape, is the number and attributes of the respective forces, the principle and motives being exactly the same.

On Tuesday the 17th, at seven A. M. we weighed anchor with the intention of sailing up to Shoupah's district, which lay on the western side of the bay; but the wind veering suddenly almost to every direction, and being attended at certain intervals with heavy squalls, we were unable to reach it, and kept tacking off and on the whole day.

396 VOYAGE TO

Though the shelter for shipping is in some parts of this river as good as could be desired, there are others, however, that are very much exposed to the prevailing winds; and on this account, should the island be ever colonized, I should decidedly recommend the Bay of Islands in preference to it as a principal harbour; this being perfectly secure against the weather, and capable of containing ships to almost any number. Captain Cook was, however, of a contrary opinion, and suggested the river Thames as the most eligible haven; but so far as I can judge, it falls infinitely short of the one I have mentioned. The violence of the wind called forth the superstitious opinions of the natives, and they all declared that it was occasioned by Shoupah's god, who was nuee nuee careedee, (very much provoked) from some cause or other, and took this mode of venting his indignation. I asked Korra-korra whether the god was angry with us or with Shoupah; he replied, with Shoupah, and that when he got on shore he would persuade the areekee to propitiate the offended deity. He assured me at the same time, that the god of Tippoonah was not at all angry; and from this it would appear.

that these people have their local and domestic gods, who may be aptly compared to the Roman lares.

At an early hour in the morning of the 18th, we had a canoe alongside with five men, one of whom was a chief named Phiti, a person of some consequence on the western side of the Bay; this man came upon deck without any hesitation, and Mr. Marsden gave him some seed wheat, the use of which, on its being explained to him, he appeared perfectly to comprehend. Leaving our new visitor on board, where he seemed quite delighted with every thing he beheld, Mr. Marsden and myself, attended by Gunnah and a few of our warriors, went on shore, and landed contiguous to a small village, the inhabitants welcoming us with the usual cry of haromai, haromai. As we were walking along the shore, we were met by some of the ladies, one of whom had a very elegant mat that she displayed for sale, and which Mr. Marsden purchased for some India print. This bargain encouraged another lady to go to her warree, or hut, and bring one that she had also to dispose of; and our friend Gunnah, who now commenced the business of a dealer, bought it of her without much

difficulty. We had here an opportunity of observing how the natives transact the affairs of trade among each other. Gunnah's merchandize consisted of a number of the white feathers of the gannet, which are universally worn by both sexes in this country, but prepared exclusively in the Bay of Islands, whence they are carried into the other districts, and form a staple article of trade. These feathers are neatly dressed, and each of them has a small piece of wood tied round the quill end, which serves to stick in the hair.

Our humorous friend was now the magnet of attraction to all the ladies of the village, in consequence of his valuable and ornamental wares; and seating himself in the midst of the gay circle, he prepared to untie the box that enclosed the feathers, to gratify their impatient eyes. The sight at once filled the whole group with rapture; and taking some of the feathers out of the box, in which he had laid them with as much dexterity as if they had been packed up by the most experienced man-milliner in London; he stuck several of them in the heads of the surrounding ladies, who, when thus decorated, congratulated each other with extatic trans-

ports, while they individually betrayed a ludicrous self-complacency. He then counted out twelve of the feathers, and laid them down with much gallantry at the feet of the young damsel who had the mat, giving her at the same time a large bunch of the down of the gannet, which is used as an ornament for the ear: upon receiving these she immediately gave him the mat in exchange, and Gunnah carefully tying up his box again, walked off to supply more customers. The ladies now commenced dancing and singing, which they kept up for some time much in the same style as we had witnessed in the Bay of Islands.

When this scene was over, we walked along the beach for about a mile, and came to the village of Shoupah. But here we had none to receive us, except a few women and children; the men having gone upon their expedition to the East Cape, and no individual being left behind who was capable of service. Among the women was the daughter-in-law of Shoupah, a young woman with a good figure and regular features, but who being now mourning for the death of her child, exhibited all over her body those hideous marks of sorrow, which according to

the barbarous practice of the country, she had inflicted upon herself. She was literally covered from head to foot with gaping scars and clotted wounds, and it was impossible to observe the manner she had lacerated herself, without being agitated with the most painful sensations. She approached us with an air of assured security, and Mr. Marsden presenting her with a pair of scissars, told her he wished to purchase some fresh meat and potatoes, of which we now wanted a supply. She answered, there were no pigs that she could dispose of, except what were at a great distance up the country; and some being pointed out to her that we saw confined in an adjacent sty, she said, they did not belong to her, but to a man who lived in a distant part of the country, and that she was not at liberty to make any agreement about them. We were equally unsuccessful with regard to the potatoes, of which she told us she had none. This village was situated, like most of the others, at the foot of a hill, and on the summit was built the hippah, which, from its appearance, was very strongly fortified. I ascended the hill for the purpose of examining it, but a heavy shower of rain coming on, before I could

reach the top, I was obliged to take shelter in a deserted hut until it was over, and then it was too late for me to proceed any further. On the side of the hill was a fine plantation of potatoes, cultivated with their usual neatness, and in the midst of it two very comfortable huts, with a singular building, probably intended for a store-house. This strange edifice was built in a circular form, with the roof projecting about three feet from the sides, and its appearance was altogether so grotesque and so very ill adapted to the tasteful enclosure in which it stood, that fancy pictured a resemblance equally singular; and transported, in my imagination, the tub of Diogenes into the midst of an English garden. At a little distance from this plantation, I perceived two others, so that I was certain, had the areekee himself been here, we might have been supplied with the potatoes at least, and probably with the pigs likewise.

Taking our leave of Shoupah's daughterin-law, who accompanied us for some distance along the shore, we saw Duaterra and Korra-korra proceeding to visit the chief who had been on board in the morning; and whom we now saw paddling on towards his

village. We followed them along the beach for about three miles, when we saw a considerable body of the natives welcoming them with their customary acclamations, and waving their kackahows in the air. We did not come up with them before we reached the village, and here we were received in the most friendly manner by our late visitor, the chief Phiti, who introduced us to his head wife and his two brothers Cawow and Tickerpuhokah; and also to an old man who was elevated above the rest, upon a chair of state similar to that I have described belonging to Kangeroa at Wyemattee. This man was the father of the chief; he appeared of a very advanced age, his hair and beard were quite white, and his countenance venerable and pleasing. Duaterra and Korra-korra had brought with them some old iron, nails, and fish-hooks, for the purpose of bartering them with their countrymen for such commodities as they could supply; and were now busily engaged in purchasing mats. Gunnah produced his feathers, and again attracted the ladies round him; others in like manner shewed their different wares, while I began to purchase curiosities, and the whole scene had all the active bustle of a

fair. Some of the most beautiful mats we had yet seen were now exhibited for sale; four of the ladies decorated with these, which were very large and richly ornamented, appeared to great advantage, being extremely handsome women, and not disfigured by any extraneous devices. On these mats they set a very high price, and would take nothing for them but axes, of which we had none to barter, so that our desire to obtain them could not be gratified. I offered them tokees and large fish-hooks, but they declined the exchange; and even our friend Gunnah's feathers were not of sufficient attraction. The common mats they parted with readily enough; but the dress ones were not to be bought, unless by articles that they considered of adequate intrinsic value.

The detestable trade in human flesh is carried on in this island; but when we consider that it has been suffered to exist so long in civilized Europe, and might still be the disgrace of Britain, had not a Wilberforce been found to proclaim its enormity, and break the fetters of an afflicted race, shall we wonder that cannibals should be insensible to its injustice, nor feel any compunction in making a traffic of that body which

they would not hesitate to devour! Duaterra wanted to purchase a slave here, but they had only one to dispose of, and he considered him too young, being a boy only of twelve or fourteen years of age. I saw some of the women very laboriously employed in bringing fire-wood and fern-root; but whether they were slaves or not, I could not discover. One of them amused me a good deal by the air of indifference with which she viewed us, while she redoubled her application to her work, and scolded at a furious rate such of the crowd as interrupted her progress to the place where she deposited the fern-root. The curiosity of this industrious dame was not excited in the least degree by our presence; and she remained a solitary exception to the surprise we created in all the other women.

The dollars taken out of the unfortunate Boyd had made their way hither. I saw some of them suspended from the necks of the children; and in the village there was a large piece of iron that had belonged to that ship. The land about this village is level to some extent; and the inhabitants must be rather numerous, as we saw huts scattered all over it in every direction. We were not more successful here than at Shoupah's place, in

procuring pigs, not being able to find any to purchase, though the natives pointed out to us where we might procure some; and with very little scruple told us we might carry them off without paying for them, advice which we thought proper to reject. We now left the village to return to the ship; and on our way along the shore, we saw a shed or out-house of extraordinary dimensions; not being less than from eighty to one hundred feet long, and built like a cart-shed, with a partition running through the middle of it. This building, according to the natives, was applied by them to no other purpose than to keep their pigs in; an immense sty, but without a single bristly inhabitant at this time.

We had not been long on board when we were surprised by a visit from the wives of the two chiefs, both very handsome women. As we were at dinner on their arrival, we invited them to partake of our fare, to which they readily agreed; feasting themselves on some rice and sugar-candy which we laid before them, and appearing highly delighted with the novelty of every thing they beheld. Their husbands, with their friends Tashinga, Waro, and Warratudee, who were all three rungateedas, and nine of their people, very

soon followed these ladies, and remained with us until the ship weighed anchor. These people brought some articles to barter with; and I bought a mat of one of them that exceeded in elegance even those displayed by the four ladies, and was a finished specimen of their taste and ingenuity. This mat, which I afterwards gave to Mrs. Marsden, was of a peculiarly fine and glossy texture; and it had a deep border of various devices and different colours worked all round it, the style of which would, even to a Parisian belle, appear chaste and fashionable. The man from whom I purchased this gay article hesitated a long time before he would take what I offered him for it, a large tokee., but at length accepted the proposal. It will not be matter of surprise that the New Zealanders set a higher value upon these mats than upon any other articles they supply, when we consider the length of time that must be occupied in making one of them, and the ingenious elegance with which they are worked, Duaterra assured me that to complete a large-sized mat of this description would take at least from two to three years, This chief made several purchases of inferior mats before these people left the vessel;

for which he gave some bits of old iron and other trifles in return.

The venders and purchasers having by this time concluded all their bargains, and nothing further remaining to be done in the way of traffic, the men went to dance on the quarter-deck; while the ladies, unconscious of their merry purpose, got into their canoe before them; from which, however, they were soon called back again by a resistless impulse to participate in their hilarity: and ascending the ship's side like a pair of rope-dancers, the moment they heard them stamping it away, they were instantly upon deck, and mingled in their festive tumult. As soon as this mirthful display was over, and they had all got into their canoes, Duaterra was determined to honour their departure by a repetition of the same scene that they had themselves exhibited, and mustered all his people together for this purpose. These commenced singing and dancing with the wildest ecstasy; while the others, resolving not to be outdone in courteous attention, returned the compliment by standing up in their canoes, and shouting out in full chorus till they could no longer see the ship.

We were now informed by Duaterra that

our short intercourse with these people had inspired them with such favourable opinions respecting us, that we might in future reckon upon a firm and permanent friendship with them; though they were at first alarmed at our arrival, thinking that we came for no other purpose than to attack them as enemies, and carry off their property. They were, however, he said, most agreeably disappointed; and so well pleased did they appear with the chief himself, that they wished him to remove from the Bay of Islands, and fix his constant abode among them. But widely different from this statement was the account given of these natives by Themorangha, who distrusted their good faith so much, that during the whole time we were here, he did not once venture to go on shore. He described them to me as a treacherous and malignant race, who being perfect adepts in dissimulation, could speak to us with apparent friendship at the very moment that they would murder us all, and seize upon the ship, if an opportunity presented itself. Their friendship, he said, in place of being firm and permanent, as Duaterra represented it, was all henerecka (deceit,) and in no instance to be relied upon.

Here I had two accounts quite opposite to each other, the one promising fidelity and attachment in our late visitors, the other proclaiming them both faithless and designing; so contradictory are these people in their reports of their countrymen.

CHAPTER XIV

CHAP. XIV.

Departure from the river Thames – Captain Cook's account of that place – The ship enters Bream Bay – Description of it – Affair between the Author and Korra-korra – Arrival at a small bay – Explored by the Author and Mr. Marsden – The ship visited by Moyhanger, a native who had been brought to England – Some particulars respecting him – Mr. Marsden and the Author invited by him to go on shore – His disgrace and expulsion from his native district.

AS Mr. Marsden's official duties at the colony required his return as soon as possible, he was apprehensive of prolonging his stay in this harbour, lest the ship might not have taken in her cargo before the time allowed by his limited leave of absence should expire; and for this reason he was anxious to get back without more delay to the Bay of Islands, not choosing by any means to trespass on the indulgence of the Governor. Accordingly, the ship getting under sail with a fine breeze from the south west, we left this interesting part of New Zealand, January 19th, at an early hour in

the morning. It was not however without sensations of regret, at not being able to see more of the character and habits of the people in this quarter, as well as of the nature of the country itself, that I now took my departure from it; and as this place had particularly attracted the attention of Captain Cook, I felt the greater desire to be better acquainted with its internal situation. The following is his description of it, which, so far as I could ascertain, is perfectly correct, (excepting what relates to the security of the bay as a road for shipping,) and may here supply that information which, from the circumstance I have mentioned, it is not in my power to afford.

"Cape Colville, the southern entrance of the bay,) lies in latitude 36 deg. 26" S. Long. 194 deg. 27" W. It rises directly from the sea to a considerable height, and is remarkable for a lofty rock which rises to the pitch of the point, and may be distinguished at a very great distance. From the south point of this Cape, the river runs in a direct line S. by E. and is no where less than three leagues broad for the distance of fourteen leagues above the Cape, and there it is contracted to a narrow stream, but continues the same course

through a low flat country, or broad valley, which lies parallel with the sea coast, and the end of which we could not see: on the east side of the broad part of this river the land is tolerably high and hilly; on the west side it is rather low, but the whole is covered with verdure and wood, and has the appearance of great fertility, though there were but a few small spots which had been cultivated. At the entrance of the narrow part of the river, the land is covered with mangroves and other shrubs; but farther there are immense woods of perhaps the finest timber in the world: in several places the wood extends to the very edge of the water, and where it is at a little distance, the intermediate space is marshy, like some parts of the banks of the river Thames in England: it is probable that the river contains plenty of fish, for we saw poles stuck up in many places to set nets for catching them, but of what kinds I do not know. The greatest depth of water that I found in this river was six-and-twenty fathom, which gradually decreased to one fathom and an half: in the mouth of the fresh-water stream it is from four to three fathom, but there are large flats and sand banks lying before it. A

ship of moderate draught may, notwithstanding, go a long way up this river with a flowing tide, for it rises perpendicularly near ten feet, and at the full and change of the moon it is high water about nine o'clock. Six leagues within Cape Colville, under the eastern shore, are several small islands, which, together with the main, seem to form good harbours; and opposite to these islands, under the western shore, lie other islands, by which it is also probable that good harbours may be formed: but if there are no harbours about this river, there is good anchoring in every part of it where the depth of water is sufficient, for it is defended from the sea by a chain of islands of different extent, which lie cross the mouth of it, and which I have, for that reason, called Barrier Islands: they stretch N. W. and S. E. ten leagues. The south end of the chain lies N. E. between two and three leagues from Cape Colville; and the north end lies N. E. four leagues and an half from Point Rodney. Point Rodney lies W. N. W. nine leagues from Cape Colville, in latitude 36 deg. 15" S. Longitude 184 deg. 58" W. and is the N. W. extremity of the river Thames; for under that name I comprehend the deep bay, which terminates

in the fresh-water stream, and the N. E. extremity is Cape Colville. "

The same navigator having gone up the fresh-water stream in his pinnace, describes his progress in the following manner:

"Into this river we entered with the first of the flood, and within three miles found the water perfectly fresh. Before we had proceeded one third of that distance, we found an Indian town, which was built upon a small bank of dry sand, but entirely surrounded by a deep mud, which possibly the inhabitants might consider as a defence. These people, as soon as they saw us, thronged to the banks, and invited us on shore. We accepted the invitation, and made them a visit notwithstanding the mud. They received us with open arms, having heard of us from our good old friend Toiava; but our stay could not be long, as we had other objects of curiosity in view. We proceeded up the river till near noon, when we were fourteen miles within its entrance, and then finding the face of the country to continue nearly the same, without any alteration in the course of the stream, which we had no hope of tracing to its source, we landed on the west side to take a view of the lofty trees

which every where adorned its banks. – They were of a kind that we had seen before, though only at a distance, both in Poverty Bay and Hawke's Bay. Before we had walked an hundred yards into the wood, we met with one of them which was nineteen feet eight inches in the girt, at the height of six feet above the ground: having a quadrant with me, I measured its height from the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty-nine feet: it was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little in proportion to its height, so that I judged there were three hundred and fifty-six feet of solid timber in it, exclusive of the branches. As we advanced, we saw many others that were still longer: we cut down a young one, and the wood proved heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as would make the finest plank in the world. Our carpenter, who was with us, said that the timber resembled that of the pitch pine, which is lightened by tapping; and possibly some such method might be found to lighten these, and they would then be such masts as no country in Europe can produce. As the wood was swampy, we could not range far; but we found many stout trees of other kinds, all

of them utterly unknown to us, specimens of which we brought away.

"The river at this height is as broad as the Thames at Greenwich, and the tide of flood as strong; it is not indeed quite so deep, but it has water enough for vessels of more than a middle size, and a bottom of mud so soft that nothing could take damage by running ashore.

"The natives residing about this river do not appear to be numerous, considering the great extent of the country. But they are a strong, well-made and active people, and all of them paint their bodies with red ochre and oil, from head to foot, which we had not seen before. Their canoes were large and well-built, and adorned with carving, in as good a taste as any that we had seen upon the coast."

Such is the account given by Captain Cook of this river and the adjacent country, with both of which he was so highly pleased as to recommend the place as the best suited of any in the island for an European settlement; giving it a decided preference to all the other parts he had visited. But what I have already observed respecting the unsafe anchorage here, will always be found a strong

objection to this opinion, and such as must countervail the many advantages which it certainly possesses. An instance of its being a dangerous road for vessels, occurred not many years back; when the Royal Admiral, a large ship, commanded by Captain Wilson, having entered the river to procure a cargo of timber, was driven from her mooring by the violence of the wind, and very near being dashed to pieces against the shore. This bay, which runs to a considerable distance up the country, is subject to the full force of all the winds that sweep along the sides of it; where the lands being high, and the intermediate space extremely narrow, every gale, for want of room to expend its strength, becomes a furious storm, and brushing through the harbour with incredible violence, suffers nothing on its bosom to intercept its progress. This river has, I believe, been very little visited by Europeans. Captain Cook was the first that ever entered it, which he did in his first voyage in the year 1769. Besides his vessel, and the one I have just noticed, the Royal Admiral, I could discover but only two others that anchored here: the Venus, a small brig carried off by the convicts from the river Derwent in Van Dieman's

Land, and the Fanny, an inconsiderable vessel, commanded by Captain Dell, who cut down three thousand spars as a cargo for a transport ship that was to call for them on her return from Port Jackson. The convicts, in their predatory descents upon the surrounding country, had the barbarity to carry off with them the daughter of Shoupah, and would have likewise taken away the chief himself, had he not made his escape from the unfeeling wretches. To Captain Dell, (according to one of our sailors who was with him at the time,) the natives behaved in the most friendly manner, rendering him all the assistance in their power in getting in the cargo, and readily furnishing him with whatever necessaries they were capable of affording.

At one A. M. we re-passed Point Rodney, and at six in the evening we entered Bream Bay. The land between Point Rodney and this place lies low, with some detached forests of pine, and in many parts large white sandbanks. This bay is every where of a tolerable breadth, and between three and four leagues deep; the two points that form it lie north and south, five leagues distant from each other.

As we were getting very short of provi-

sions, and our warriors had nearly exhausted their stock of fern-root, our principal object in entering this bay was the expectation of meeting with the chief who had visited us at the Cowa-cowa; and from whom we had hopes of procuring a supply. But we were disappointed in seeing this friendly individual; for it being late when we had worked into the bay, and a fresh gale blowing smartly the whole time, no canoe put off; though very probably this might not have been the cause, as we afterwards discovered that their canoes were always kept on the north side, where the projection of the Point might, perhaps, have prevented the natives from seeing us. However, though unsuccessful in other provisions, we got here a seasonable supply of fish, every man being set to work with his hook and line; and we very soon caught a large quantity of bream, the fish that gives name to the bay, and an abundance of snappers. There is here no kind of shelter for shipping, and the bay, which forms almost an exact semicircle, lies quite open and exposed to every wind. A considerable saltwater creek runs for some distance up the country, into the head of which a fresh-water stream empties itself. Korra-korra told us

that our vessel could easily sail up this creek, and that its banks were covered with extensive forests of the cowree. Being so much restricted as to time, we were prevented from exploring it, which we otherwise would have done, as it might have proved an excellent place for procuring timber. The point of land, or cape, that forms Bream Head, when viewed from the inside of the bay, is beautifully picturesque; it rises to some height with several sharp-pointed rocks upon its summit, which are surrounded by shrubs and small trees, appearing to the transient eye of the observer like the venerable ruins of some mouldering abbey or neglected castle.

In the course of this day I made an experiment which I afterwards very much regretted; as it only proved to me, that to provoke the anger of a savage is far too serious a trial of the human temper to be resorted to with safety. Though I had frequently seen Korra-korra in the full tide of his warlike paroxysms, I never had an opportunity of viewing him under the impulse of irritated feelings; and wishing to try his temper in such a state, I was now determined to indulge my curiosity. I therefore approached the place where he was sitting in conversa-

tion with his companions, and threw two or three small chips at him, which, however, he did not appear to notice in the least, nor did he seem at all incommoded, till, by repeating the experiment, I hit him rather sharply over the leg with a piece of wood; when feeling the smart of it, he became so enraged, that, snatching up a piece of dammer 16 he threw it at me with so much force, and with so good an aim, that he amply retaliated the injury he had sustained, by giving me a violent blow on the face. This being completely of my own seeking, I bore it as a just return; and going into the cabin, I was followed by the chief, who, content with having dealt with me in my own manner, was now appeased, and in perfect good humour. But I was determined to make a further trial of his disposition; and going to my chest, I took out my pistols, telling him at the same time, that I must shoot him that very instant. His behaviour was now quite composed, and he evinced no sort of irritation on hearing this terrible announcement; but argued with me very coolly, saying it was not "Mr. Korrakorra that had begun first, but Mr. Nicholas," and exculpating himself, by urging the pro-

vocation he had received. To this I replied, that all he could say was of no consequence; and shewing him the part of my face where he had grazed the skin, told him that nothing less than his life could satisfy my resentment. Speaking these words with a determined and angry tone, I excited all his fears the moment I uttered them; and springing upon me like a lion, he at once wrenched the pistols out of my hand, despising any resistance I could offer. I succeeded, however, in assuring him that it was only a joke, and that I had no intention of shooting him, at which he readily consented to return me the pistols; but getting upon deck immediately after, he took one of the spears from the boom, and called out, in a tone of defiance, for me to come up with my pistols, and that he would fight me if I dared. Believing myself secure upon the deck against his rage, I accepted the challenge; and taking the balls and half the charge of powder out of the pistols, I went up, and found him talking with Mr. Marsden, to whom I pretended to complain of the transaction that had occurred, observing, that the Governor had acted so very ill, that I was come up for the purpose of shooting him. My friend smiled, and taking the pistol out

of my hand, said, "give me the pistol, and I'll shoot him;" but as he was returning it to me, after having presented it at him, the chief rushed in upon me, while the pistol, in my struggle to keep possession of it, went off, and the powder singeing his waistcoat, he became furiously outrageous, jumping and roaring about like the most crazy bedlamite. Nothing could now allay his rage; and holding the pistol by the muzzle, I thought he was going to knock me down with the butt-end of it, when to prevent this, I presented the other at him, telling him, if he attempted to strike me, I would shoot him in reality; for that I had been only joking with him hitherto, the pistol that went off not being charged: of which I endeavoured to convince him by taking the bullet out of my waistcoat pocket. Mr. Marsden joined me in expostulating with him, and used every argument to subdue his ferocity, and make him listen to reason; but he still continued insensible to all that was said, exclaiming, in the violence of his fury, and as if he could devour me that very instant, "Mr. Nicholas no good, no good, shoot Mr. Korra-korra." I knew not how long this dreadful passion was to last, or what might be the consequences, while still

holding the bullet in my hand, and repeatedly declaring to him that it was only henerecka, (their term for joking,) I observed, at length, his countenance change, and become softened into a sudden tenderness no less affecting than his rage was terrible. The transition astonished me; he wept bitterly, and turning all his reproaches against himself, expressed the most poignant regret for having behaved with so much violence, and taken my joke in a serious manner, crying out, in his own emphatic way, that "he was no good." Seeing my finger bleed, which was occasioned by the struggle I had with him for the pistol, he instantly tore off a piece of linen that went round his hair, and bound up the wound; the tears streaming from his eyes, and all his features expressing extreme concern at the idea that he had hurt me. I was distressed by his emotions, and being immediately reconciled to him, we were now as good friends as ever.

It surprised me exceedingly, that at the time this chief was in so raging a passion, none of his countrymen on board attempted for a moment to pacify him, but remained silent spectators till it had subsided. Both Duaterra and Tui appeared quite indifferent

to the scene, neither taking any more notice of it, than if it had been entirely a matter of course, and of no consequence. I asked Duaterra afterwards, if he thought Korrakorra would have struck me; and he replied in the negative. I then questioned him if he supposed the chief had any serious intention of throwing the pistol into the sea, (which at one time he seemed much inclined to do;) but his answer was, that he was too good a soldier for an act of that kind.

Standing out of this bay during the night, and keeping close into the shore, we passed on the following morning, January 20th, a smaller one adjoining Bream Head; where our warriors informed us that plenty of good timber might be procured. Mr. Marsden and myself got into the boat to explore it; and found it capable of affording a very secure shelter for vessels of light draught, the soundings varying from eight to one fathom at low water, and the tide rising about ten feet. The distance between this Bay and Bream Head may be estimated at nearly four leagues; and the entrance, which is narrow, lies among some small islands, there being deep water until you reach the opening, where there is a bar of rocky ground, with nine

fathoms water. Here you pass a rock of a singular appearance; it is perforated quite through, forming a natural arch, and leaving the traveller to marvel what could have given it so strange a conformation. The stratum of the shore and that of the rocks was of clay-stone, similar to those in the Bay of Islands. There were here a great many pines, particularly of that species called by the natives cowree, and from which resin exudes; these we found growing upon the sides of the hills that bordered the harbour, and in a swamp adjoining, we met with a great plenty of another species; but none of the trees in this place, are sufficiently large to induce a vessel at any time to put in here for a cargo. The bay abounded with fish, and there was every necessary facility for drawing the nets, so that in this respect it may hereafter become useful. I saw some curious looking ducks here; the plumage being quite black, with the bill and feet of a red colour, and a circle of the same round the eyes.

Soon after our return to the ship, we had a canoe alongside, with one of the chiefs from Bream Head, accompanied by Moyhanger, the man whom Mr. Savage brought with him to England about seven years ago,

and who excited so much curiosity during his visit there. This individual had been the frequent object of our inquiries, having understood that he had on his return to his native country gone to reside in a distant part of it, but whither we could never ascertain; and we were now not less surprised than pleased at meeting with him. I felt particularly interested at the sight of a person who had seen life in such strange varieties; and who had experienced in the vicissitudes of his fortune, the opposite extremes of the grossest barbarism and of the most refined elegance. Mr. Savage, in his little sketch of this island, speaks in very high terms of his good sense, and the correctness of his conduct; but from what I could learn here concerning him, the account is somewhat overcharged. That gentleman got him presented to the King and the Royal Family, as also to Earl Fitzwilliam, 17 and several others of the nobility.

He appeared when we saw him a handsome intelligent fellow; but the charms of civilized society did not seem to have left impressions sufficiently strong upon his mind to create a desire of participating in them again: perfectly content with his original condition, he shewed no disposition to resign it, nor had the roast beef of Old England produced in

Moyhanger any distaste for the fern-root of New Zealand. We had a good deal of conversation with him; Mr. Marsden told him that his friend Mr. Savage was gone to India, but he received the information with seeming indifference, not appearing in the least degree interested about him. His ideas seemed to be wholly occupied in thinking what he might ask for: we gave him some nails, but these did not content him; he wanted others of a larger size, and taking a particular liking to a cat that we had on board, we indulged his humour by making him a present of it. I asked him if he had seen King George; he said yes, that King George was a great king, but that the Governor at Port Jackson was no king at all. He was particularly urgent for us to go on shore, where, he said, his chief would be glad to see us, and would sell us plenty of pigs and potatoes; and that if we wanted timber we could be abundantly supplied close by an adjacent village, where it grew in great profusion. We told him we would pay his chief a visit in the course of the day, at which he expressed much satisfaction, and took his departure, promising to procure for us whatever provisions we required, and desiring

us to bring the ship as close in towards the shore as possible. Before he went away, I asked him if he would like ever again to visit England; but his reply was, that he had no inclination to emigrate any more.

The expedition of Moyhanger to England, does not appear to have been of any advantage either to himself or his countrymen; whatever improvements he might have thought proper to suggest to them on his return, they were unwilling to adopt, and unfortunately he had no power to enforce; for being only a cookee, his experience was disregarded and his arguments despised. He returned to his native land loaded with valuable presents, and which, had he been a chief, would have given him considerable importance in the eyes of his countrymen; but with these, no acquisitions could exalt a plebeian, and as poor Moyhanger had not the means of protecting his property, I am persuaded he was despoiled of it in a very short time, and reduced to his former state of rude indigence. Certain it is that when we met with him, he had no distinguishing mark from the other cookees, nor could we observe any European articles in his possession; which leads me to believe that he was certainly plundered,

as I am convinced he would not have bartered them all away. It is with regret I am obliged to state a circumstance respecting this man, which tends to lessen the good character given of him by Mr. Savage, and which, after his arrival from England, occasioned him to fall into considerable disgrace. Being on board one of our vessels that put into the Bay of Islands, (the Ferret, Captain Skelton,) he unfortunately contrived to purloin an axe, a temptation too great for his probity to resist; and this being discovered by Tupee, to whose brother Tarra he was then subject, that rigorous chief was so indignant at it, that he gave him a severe flogging, and persuaded the areekee to banish him from his territory, never again to return to it under pain of death. Since that time, the poor fellow has taken up his residence with the chief whose district we were now going to visit.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Hughes and Baynes, Printers, 29, Maiden-Lane, Covent-Garden.

16 A kind of pitch made in India

17 Of his behaviour on this occasion, Mr. Savage gives the following account, which will be amusing to such of my readers as may not have seen his work. "Soon after my arrival I introduced Moyhanger to Earl Fitzwilliam. I told him that his lordship was a chief, and Moyhanger entered the mansion with becoming respect. The furniture and paintings pleased him highly; but with the affability of his lordship and the Countess Fitzwilliam, he was quite delighted. Lord Milton and some noble relations of Lord Fitzwilliam's were present, who all shared in Moyhanger's approbation. He was a great physiognomist, and approved or disliked at a first interview. The lines of his lordship's face pleased him more than those of any man, of whom I had yet heard his opinion. A marble bust which represented his lordship, engrossed the whole of his attention for many minutes; he placed himself in a chair opposite to it, and contemplated the features with great admiration. He said, on his return to New Zealand he should endeavour to carve a figure in imitation of it. He whispered me whenever Lord Fitzwilliam turned his back, Piannah tippeehee – very good chief; and with her ladyship and the company he was equally pleased. The ornamental parts of the furniture did not make such an impression upon him is might be imagined: of the mirrors and other splendid ornaments, he merely observed, Miti – they are very fine; and while I thought he was admiring the more striking objects, I found be was counting the chairs. He had procured a small piece of stick, which he had broken into pieces, to assist his recollection. He observed, Nuee nuee tungata noho tippeehee-a great number of men sit with the chief. Moyhanger departed highly delighted with his visit; he frequently requested me to repeat it, and often inquired after the health of the chief and his family." – Savage's Account of New Zealand, p. 106.

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PASTORAL LETTERS ON NONCONFORMITY.
Addressed to a Young Member of a Society of Protestant Dissenters. Post 12mo. 3s. 6d.

QUALIFICATIONS FOR THE CHRISTIAN MINISTRY;
A Sermon, preached at the Meeting-House, New Broad-Street, on the Anniversary of the Protestant Dissenting Academy at Homerton, May 14, 1816. By John Winter. ls. 6d.

DR. WILLIAMS'S WORKS.

A DEFENCE OF MODERN CALVINISM,
Containing a Refutation of the Bishop of Lincoln's Work, entitled "A Refutation of Calvinism." 8vo. 12s. boards.

AN ESSAY ON THE EQUITY OF DIVINE GOVERNMENT AND THE SOVEREIGNTY OF DIVINE GRACE.
A new edition, corrected and enlarged. 12s.

SERMONS AND CHARGES,
Delivered at various times, collected into one volume 8vo. 10s. 6d. bds.

ANTIPAEDOBAPTISM EXAMINED; OR,
A strict and impartial Inquiry into the Nature and Design, Subjects and Mode of Baptism. Including also an Investigation of the Nature of positive Institutions in general, and occa-

AN ABRIDGMENT OF OWEN ON THE HEBREWS,
With the Preliminary Exercitations. To which are added, a full and interesting Life of the Author, a copious Index, &c. &c. A new edition, with corrections and improvements. 4 vols. 8vo. 21. 2s. boards.

SOCIAL RELIGION EXEMPLIFIED, IN
An Account of the first Settlement of Christianity in the City of Caerludd, (London) in several Dialogues; written originally by the Rev. Mathias Maurice. Revised, corrected and abridged, with occasional Notes, a copious Index, and a Preface containing some account of the Author. 4s. boards.

THE WORKS OF PRESIDENT EDWARDS, INCLUDING
Memoirs of the Life, Experience, and Character of the Author, by the late Dr. Hopkins, reviewed, corrected, and enlarged; a Sketch of Mrs. Edwards's Life and Character; a Brief Account of their Daughter, Mrs. Burr; the Life and Character of the Author's Son, Dr. Jonathan Edwards; together with occasional notes on controverted subjects, and an accurate copious index. A new edition in 8 vols. royal 8vo. 41. 16s. boards.

EVANGELICAL CATECHIST,
For the Use of Children.
CONTAINING,
Class I. – The Parent's Help; or, the Young Child's First Catechism. 3d. or 2s. 6d. per doz.
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Class III. – Part 1. -The Shorter Catechism of the. Reverend Assembly of Divines; or, the Child's Third Catechism. With Notes. 6d. or 5s. per dozen.
Part 2. -The Older Child's Catechism, founded on Scripture Characters & important Tacts. Is. or 10s. 6d. per doz.

THE PSALMS AND HYMNS OF DR. WATTS.
Containing 20 additional Hymns, by the same Author; a Table of the First Lines, not only of every Psalm and Hymn, but also of every Stanza in the Work; a new arrangement of the whole in a convenient Table prefixed; with scriptures.

PUBLISHED BY JAMES BLACK AND SON.

A COLLECTION OF SIX HUNDRED HYMNS,
By the Rev. EDWARD WILLIAMS, D. D. and the Rev. JAMES BODEN.
18mo. price 4s. 6d. fine paper 6s. 6d. bound.

MILLAR'S COLLECTION OF PSALM AND HYMN TUNES,
Adapted to Williams's Collection of Hymns. 2 vols. 4to. 1l, 4s. half-bound.

SCRIPTURE QUESTIONS:
For the Use of Youth;
With a particular Design to exercise and improve the Judgment. A new Edition, 1s. - With the Supplement and Charts, 3s.

A PORTRAIT OF THE LATE REV. E. WILLIAMS, D. D.
Engraved by Wedgwood, from an original painting by Allingham. 15s. proofs 1l. 1s.

History and Topography

STUDIES IN HISTORY: CONTAINING

The HISTORY of GREECE, from its earliest Period to its final Subjugation by the Romans, in a Series of Essays, accompanied with Reflections, Historical Exercises for Youth, and a correct Map of Ancient Greece. By Thos. MoRell. Second edition, 8vo. 10s. 6d. bds.

MORELL'S HISTORY OF GREECE,WITH A MAP,
For the Use of Schools. 12mo. 6s. 6d. boards.
"It gives us unfeigned pleasure to notice the important service which we consider the Author of tile present volume to have, in this respect, done to the interests of religion. It deserves a place in every school where the classics are taught; and in every family where youth are receiving a liberal education, or training up for any of the literary professions." – Edinb. Christ. Inst. Sept. 1813.
"Parents and teachers of youth are under great obligations to this well-informed and Christian writer, for enabling them to put into the hands of their children and pupils, a work from which they will derive accurate and interesting historical information, and at the same time learn to judge with propriety of events and characters, and imbibe sound principles of justice, benevolence and piety." – Eclectic Review, September 1813.
"This volume is beyond all comparison the best that can be put into the hands of the younger branches of Christian families at school or elsewhere, upon the subject on which it treats."-Bapt. Mag. Oct. 1813.
"We have no doubt, from the nature of the work itself, and the respectable list of subscribers prefixed, that this will be well received; and we sincerely hope that Mr. Morell will accomplish his proposed plan, in reference to the Histories of Rome and England." – Evan. Mag. Nov, 1813.

STUDIES IN HISTORY: CONTAINING

The HISTORY of ROME, from its earliest Records to the Death of Constantine, in a Series of Essays, accompanied with Reflections, References to original Authorities, and Historical Questions. By Thomas Morell. 8vo. 10s. 6d. boards.

MORELL'S HISTORY OF ROME, WITH A MAP,

PRIMITIVE HISTORY,
From the Creation to Cadmus. By W. Williams, Esq. formerly Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. One vol. 4to. 10s. 6d. large paper 15s.

AN HISTORICAL VIEW OF THE REFORMED CHURCH OF FRANCE,
From its Origin to the present Time; With an Appendix, containing a Variety of interesting Documents. By the Rev. Ingram Cobbin, M. A. 8vo. 5s. boards.

BLOMEFIELD'S TOPOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF THE COUNTY OF NORFOLK;
Containing a Description of the Towns, Villages and Hamlets, with the Foundations, Monasteries, Churches, Chapels, Chantries, and other Religious Buildings, &c. continued by the late Rev. Charles Parkin. 11 vols. 4to. ill. extra bds. 11 vols. 8vo. 91. 18s. bds.
As this work was published periodically, many Gentlemen became possessed of the former volumes, whose sets remain incomplete since the publication of the latter volumes, of which but a limited number are now on hand: it will therefore be expedient for them to complete their sets without loss of time.

COLLECTIONS FOR THE HISTORY & ANTIQUITIES OF WORCESTERSHIRE;
With an Appendix. By T. Nash, Esq.
2 vols. folio, 5l. 5s. boards.

THOROTON'S HISTORY OF NOTTINGHAMSHIRE;
Republished with large Additions by JOHN Throsby, and embellished with Picturesque and Select Views of Seats of the Nobility and Gentry, Towns, Villages, Churches and Ruins 3 vols. 4to. 51. 5s. boards.

PUBLISHED BY JAMES BLACK AND SON.

The Scenery, Antiquities and Biography of SOUTH WALES,
From Materials collected during two Excursions in the Year 1803. By B. H. Malkin, Esq. M. A. F. S. A. Embellished with Views drawn on the spot, and engraved by Laporte, and a Map of (he Country. 4to. 21. 12s. 6d. 2 vols. 8vo. 1l. Is.

COLLECTIONS TOWARDS A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF DEVON.
By Sir William POLE, of Colcombe and Shute. 4to. 21. 2s. boards.

A Topographical Dictionary OF THE DOMINION OF WALES; EXHIBITING
The Names of the several Cities, Towns, Villages, &c. the Valuation and Patrons of Ecclesiastical Benefices, the Resident Population and the amount of Parochial Assessments, the Distance of every place from the nearest Post-office and from the Metropolis, Markets and Fairs, Members of Parliament, Free Schools, Petty Sessions and Assizes, &c. &c. Compiled from actual Inquiry, and arranged in alphabetical order, by Nicholas Carlisle, F. S. A. 4to. 2l. 12s. 6d.

THE NATURAL HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES of SELBORNE,IN THE COUNTY OF SOUTHAMPTON; To which are added, the Naturalist's Calender, Observations on various Parts of Nature, and Poems. By the late Rev. Gilbert White, formerly of Oriel College, Oxford. A new Edition, with Additions, and 12 Engravings, several of which are new. 4to. 21. 12s. 6d.
*** Fifty Copies are printed on royal quarto paper, (with the copy of a curious old Painting beautifully coloured,) and done up in 2 vols. Price 5l. 5s. in boards. Of these very few now remain.
To those who are acquainted with this Work, any recommendation of it is superfluous: to those who are not, the testimonies home to its merits, both as to matter and style, by some of the most eminent Writers of the present day, by Dr. Whitaker, Dr. Aikin, Mr. Edgworth, &c. may offer some inducement to its perusal. Without exaggeration, it may be said to stand at the head of, and to serve as a model for, all Works of a similar description.

LACHESIS LAPPONICA; OR,
A Tour in Lapland.
Now first published from the original Manuscript Journal of the celebrated Linnaeus, -By James Edward Smith, M. D. F. R. S. &c. President of the Linnaean Society. Handsomely printed in 2 vols. 8vo. with above 60 wood cuts from the extemporaneous sketches of the illustrious Author. 1l. 1s. boards.
"Before we close our report of this very extraordinary production, we deem it only an act of justice to the learned and laborious Editor, to mention, that he has bestowed much trouble in deciphering the original manuscript, and in procuring a faithful version of its miscellaneous contents. Evert the facsimiles of the rough drawings, though executed in a very different style from the pretty plates of Mr. Ackermann's Repository, contribute, nevertheless, to the graphic and ghostly air of

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE MINERAL KINGDOM, RELATIVE TO
The Strata of Coal. Mineral Veins, and the prevailing Strata of the Globe. By John Williams. F. S. S. A. Mineral Surveyor. Second edition, with an Appendix, containing a more extended View of Mineralogy and Geology. By James Millar, M. D. F. S. A. S. Lecturer on Natural History & Chemistry, Edinburgh. In 2 vols. 8vo. illustrated with Engravings, 1l. 4s. boards.

PETRIFICATA DERBIENSIA; OR,
Figures and Descriptions of Petrifactions collected in Derbyshire. By WilliAm Martin, F. L. S. Corresponding Member of the Literary and Philosophical Society of Manchester, and Honorary Member of the Geological Society of London. In one vol. 4to. with 52 coloured Engravings. 21. 12s. 6d. boards.

FLORA BRITANNICA,
Auctore Jac. Edv. Smith, M. D. Societatis
Linneanae Praeside, &c. Vols. I. II. III. in 8vo. M. 6s. 6d. bds.

A SYSTEMATIC ARRANGEMENT OF BRITISH PLANTS; WITH
An easy Introduction to the Study of Botany.
Illustrated by Copper-Plates. BY W. WITHERING, M. D. F. R. S. &c.
The Fifth Edition, corrected and considerably enlarged, by Wm. WITHERING, Esq. 4 vols.

PUBLISHED BY JAMES BLACK AND SON.

LETTERS ON THE ELEMENTS OF BOTANY.
Addressed to a Lady, by the celebrated J. J. Rousseau: translated into English. with Notes, and Twenty-four additional Letters fully explaining the System of Linnaeus. By Thomas Martyn, B. D. F. R. &. L. S. S. Regius Prof, of Botany in the University of Cambridge. - The Seventh Edition, with Corrections and Improvements. 8vo. 8s. bds.

Flora Americae Septentrional OR, A SYSTEMATIC ARRANGEMENT & DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS of NORTH AMERICA;
Containing,
Besides what have been described by preceding Authors, many new and rare Species collected during Twelve Years' Residence and Travels in that Country. By Fred. Pursh. Second Edition. 2 vols. 8vo. 1l. 16s. Coloured 2l. 12s. boards.

PETRALOGY: A TREATISE ON ROCKS.
By John Pinkerton, Author of Modern Geography, &c. Handsomely printed in 2 large vols. 8vo. with twenty-five Vignette and other Engravings. 21. 2s. boards.
EXTRACTS FROM THE INTRODUCTION. "I would propose, in the present advanced state of science, that the mineral kingdom be divided into three provinces: 1. Petralogy, or the knowledge of rocks, or stones which occur in large masses. 2. Lithology; the knowledge of gems and small stones. 3. Metallogy; or the knowledge of metals, Each of these branches is even at present so important, and offers such numerous topics of disquisition and research, that in the course of no long period a Professor of each will appear in Universities; and each might occupy the sole pursuit of an Author who is zealous to make discoveries, or to compose complete and classical works." –
"In the present Work it is to be hoped that the want of attention, care, or labour will not be accused. The Author has sedulously employed the intervals of ten years in this production, particularly three which he passed at Paris, where he had constant opportunities of seeing the most opulent cabinets, and of conversing with men eminent in the science; as Patrin, Gillet-Laumont, Daubuisson, and others: not to mention interviews with Hany and with Weiner, during his short stay in that capital. – He hopes the Work may at least aspire to the humble praise of utility, the chief aim of his labours."

MODERN BRITISH DRAMA; CONTAINING
A Collection of the most esteemed English Tragedies, Comedies, Operas, Farces, &c. - 5 vols. royal 8vo. 5l. 10s.

MASSINGER'S PLAYS,
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THE WORKS OF BEAUMONT AND FLETCHER,
With an Introduction and Explanatory Notes.
By Henry Weber. Fourteen vols. 8l. 8s.

PHAEDO:
A Dialogue on the Immortality of the Soul.
Translated from the Greek of Plato, By T. R. Joliffe, Esq. A., VI. 10s. 6d. boards.

FABLES FOR THE FIRE-SIDE.
By J. LETTICE, D. D.
With each Fable is connected a Praxis for the investigation of its Moral. A new Edition, in 1 vol. 8vo. 5s. fine paper 7s.
"Many of these Fables are excellent, and the whole constitute a very pleasing volume, from which much entertainment and much instruction may be obtained."

THE OXFORD SAUSAGE; OR, SELECT PIECES
Written by the most celebrated Wits of the University of Oxford. With the original Wood-Cuts. 9s. boards.
A few copies on imperial paper, 15s.

THE BATTLE OF WATERLOO:
A POEM, by JOHN HASKINS. 8vo. 5s.

FRENCH ACCOUNT OF THE LAST CAMPAIGN OF BUONAPARTE;
Written by an Eye-Witness. Translated by Capt. Thornton, 78th Highlanders.
WITH A PLAN of the BATTLE of WATERLOO, sketched by the Translator, and approved by Colonel Brooke. Dedicated to Major-Gen. Sir J. Willoughby Gordon, K. C. B. QuarterMaster-General to the British Forces. 5s.

CRITICAL INQUIRY INTO THE PATHOLOGY OF SCROFULA
In which the Origin of that disease is accounted for on new principles and a much approved method is recommended and explained forthe Treatment of it. By Geo [????] M. D. 8vo. 10s. 6d. boards,

PUBLISHED BY JAMES BLACK AND SON.

THE LIFE OF PRESIDENT EDWARDS.
BY JOHN HAWKS LEY.
12mo. 4s. bds.

TO TUTORS.
Particularly designed to abridge the labours of the first forms.

A MANUAL OF LATIN GRAMMAR;
Intended to combine the ancient plan of Grammatical Institution, originally enjoined by Royal Authority, with the advantages of modern Improvements; to which are prefixed, some Prefatory Hints and Observations on the Method of commencing and pursuing Classical Learning, in Schools and by private Study. By John Pye Smith, D. D. 12mo. Price 2s. 6d. sheep.

SCHADE'S GERMAN GRAMMAR.
A NEW GRAMMAR OFTHE GERMAN LANGUAGE,
For the Use of Englishmen; Containing a complete Syntax of all the Parts of Speech, illustrated by numerous Examples and Exercises; to which is added, a set of Familiar Dialogues. 12mo. 6s.

GRAMMAIRE DE LHOMOND; OR,
The Principles of the French Language,
ACCORDING TO THE RULES OF THE FRENCH ACADEMY.
By Chas. Ant. Devisscher, Public Teacher from the University of Paris. 12mo. 3s. bd.

MANUEL DU VOYAGUER,
In Six Languages; Or, Travellers' Companion for Conversation;
BEING
A Collection of such Expressions as occur most frequently in travelling and in the different situations of Life. By Madame de GenliS. In Six Languages – English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese. Fourth Edition, 12mo. 6s.

BENTLEY'S DISSERTATION UPON THE EPISTLES OF PHILARIS,
With an Answer to the Objections of the Hon. C. Boyle; to which are added, Dr, Bentley's Dissertation on the Epistles of Themistocles, Socrates, Euripides and others, and the Failles of Aesop, as originally printed, with occasional Remarks on the whole. New edit. 8vo. 16s.

CLASSICS

BORNII NOMENCLATOR,
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ETYMOLOGICUM MAGNUM.
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LUCANI PHARSALIA,
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Messrs. Black & Son have purchased the whole remaining Copies of the Two following Works.

EURIPIDIS
TRAGOEDIAE, FRAGMENTA, EPISTOLAE, Ex editione Barnesii nunc recusa, et aucta appendice observationum e variis doctorum virorum libris collectarum; accedunt MUSGRAVII notae integrae praeter lectionis varietatem; adduntur scholia auctiora commentationes et animadversiones virorum doctorum excerptae et index verborum copiosus. Curavit C. D. Beckius. 3 vols. 4to. 11.

JUVENALIS D. JUNII AQUINATIS
SATIRAE XVI.
Ad optimorum exemplorum fidem recensitae, varietate lectionum porpetuoque commentario illustratae et indice uberrimo instructae a G. HRuperti. 2 vols. 8vo. 1l. 16s.

WORKS IN THE PRESS, WHICH WILL SHORTLY BE PUBLISHED BY
James Black and Son, No.2 Tavistock-Street, Covent-Garden.

NICHOLAS'S VOYAGE TO NEW ZEALAND.
A Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand performed in the Years 1814 and 1815, by JOHN LIDDIARD NICHOLAS ESQ. in Company with the REV. SAMUEL MARSDEN, Principal Chaplain of New South Wales, Including an Account of the first Missionary Establishment ever formed on that Island, with a Description of the Interior of the Country, its Soil, Climate and Productions, and the Manners and Customs of the Natives; together with occasional Remarks on their Political Economy. Two vols. 8vo. illustrated with Plates and a Map of the Island.

QUESTIONS RESOLVED;
Containing a plain and concise Explanation of near Four Hundred Difficult Passages of Scripture, and concise Answers to important Questions in History, Biography, and General Literature. By the Rev. G. G. Scraggs, A. M. 2 vols. 12mo.

MORELL'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND.
The History of England, from its earliest Period to the Death of Elizabeth. By the Rev. T. MORELL, Author of "Studies in History," to which this will form an additional volume. The concluding volume of the series, in which the History of England will be brought down to the present Period, will follow as quickly as possible.

PHILANTHROPY: A POEM. By the Rev. Ingram Cobbin, A. M. Foolcap 8vo. with Plates.

A TREATISE ON PULMONARY CONSUMPTION,
By GEORGE HENNING, M. D. of Bridgewater, Author of an Inquiry into the Pathology of Scrofula. One vol. 8vo.

BERNAY'S INTRODUCTION TO THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE GERMAN LANGUAGE:
Including a short Introduction to the German Grammar, and extracts from the most approved Writers, in which the Peculiarities of the Language are explained and simplified; together With a Key or Lexicon. In the Extracts.

LIST OF WORKS IN THE PRESS.

HERODIANI EPIMERISMI.
Herodiani Pseudo-Lexicon vocatum Epimerismi, collated from the Manuscript in Paris, the direction of Professor Boissonade. One vol. 8vo.

HERODOTI HISTORIARUM LIBRI IX.
GRAECE ET LATINE. Herodoti Musae, sive Historiarum Libri IX; ad veterum codicum fidem denuo recensiti; jecta Lectionis Varietate, continua Interpretatione Latina, Adnotationibus WESSELING VALCKENARII, SCHWEIGHAEUSERI aliorumque; LARCHERI Chronologia Herodotea et Ind Geographico.

P. PAPINII STATII CARMINA.
Ex antiquis libris correcta et criticis annotationibus illustrati.
Tria priora volumina exhibebunt Silvas e codicibus Vratislaviensi, quatuor Vaticanis, Vim bonensi, Senensi et Capilupiano emendatas, cum notis Gronovii et integro commentario J Marklandi. Adjectae erunt Lenzii et Handii annotationes, in quibus continentur eme dationes et observationes multorum criticorum antehac non editae. Ex his nomina sufficiat Gruterum, Scaligerum, Scriverium, Barthium, Reinesium, N. Heinsium, Bi mannos, Peyraredum, Christium,. Trillerum, Hopfium, Drakenborchium, Wernsdorfium Hoeufftium, Schraderum. Quarto volumine comprehendentur Achilleidos libri, adhibi XIX. codicibus correcti, reliquis vero Thebais e codicibus XXXIII. antea non inspec emendata, simul cum scholiis Lactantii multis in locis auctis. Commentarii inter al habebunt Suspiciones Gruteri ineditas. Handius in annotationibus suis conscribend ita versabitur, ut omnia, quae a criticis hucusque prolata Bint, breviter exponat. lectioi vulgatae rationem emendationumque causas referat. et non tantum sententiarum rerumqi difficultates illustret, sed etiam de iis quae ad universam Latini sermonis cognitione et ad poetarum usum pertineant maxime ad Silvarum carmina disserat.

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