Revised Sailing Directions... for the Northern Part of the Colony of New Zealand

Byron Drury

First published by Printed for the New Zealand Government by Williamson and Wilson in 1854

Epub © 2015 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-0-947487-13-3

[TITLE PAGES]

[Page ii is blank]

REVISED
SAILING DIRECTIONS,
&c., &c.,
FOR THE NORTHERN PART OF THE COLONY OF
NEW ZEALAND.

BY CAPTAIN DRURY ,
H. M. S. "Pandora."

AUCKLAND;
PRINTED FOR THE NEW ZEALAND GOVERNMENT,
BY WILLIAMSON & WILSON.
1854.

[Page 2 is blank]

TO HIS EXCELLENCY COLONEL WYNYARD, C. B.

H. M. Surveying Vessel "Pandora,"
Auckland,
Monday, 21st August, 1854.

Sir, –

I have the honour to transmit to your Excellency the accompanying revised sailing directions, &c., for the northern part of this Colony. The Hydrographer of the Admiralty desired me to impart such information to the Colonial Government from time to time, as might be useful, and I have, agreeably to his desire, forwarded to the Colonial Secretary, reports on harbours, sailing directions, and suggestions for beacons and buoys, at the conclusion of each season's survey, which have been publised in the Gazettes.

His Excellency Sir George Grey ordered a compilation of these reports for general information; and now, besides considerable additions to the sailing directions, I have thought fit to communicate the coast expeditions of the Surveyors.

To the general reader these excursions can be of little interest, for the nature of the service they were employed on rendered it imperative that they should keep upon the coast line, receding to the interior only for the purpose of carrying on – where practicable – a trigonometrical survey. Acting up to the spirit of my instructions, I believe that an account of the coast-line of this country, in its infancy, may be useful, as a manual to travellers, as well as a standard in judging of future changes in the physical aspect and progressive improvement of the Colony.

In their reports there was much matter irrelevant to a

simple scheme of information, but which may form additional and interesting traits of native character hereafter, &c.

The information is, with the exception of the report upon the Pelorus, confined to the Northern Island, as my predecessor, Captain Stokes, had been engaged upon the investigation of the coast of the Middle Island, and other southern portions of the Colony. But as we are on the eve of going there, I may be able to add further suggestions regarding the navigation of those seas.

I am, Sir,
Your Excellency's most obedient Servant,
BYRON DRURY,
Commander and Surveyor.

[Pages 5-57]

SAILING DIRECTIONS

FOR THE

COAST OF THE NORTHERN ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND, FROM DOUBTLESS BAY ROUND THE NORTH COAST TO TARANAKI, INCLUDING THE HARBOURS AND RIVERS OF AWANUI, HOKORA, PARENGARENGA, HEREKINO, WANGAPE, HOKIANGA, KAIPARA, MANUKAU, WAIKATO, WHAINGAROA, AOTEA, AND KAWHIA.

DOUBTLESS BAY is clear of danger, with the exception of the Fairway reef and Albert rocks.

The Albert reef of the charts is not a reef, but two rocks well above water, with a channel of not less than 10 fathoms between them, and both are steep to all round, and a vessel may run between them as they are not sufficiently high to cause eddy winds.

The Fairway reef is all connected by a few sunken rocks, and a few just above water.

Two miles N. N. W. of Knuckle point is Matai bay.

There are two inner bays, the west having the best anchorage in 5 fathoms sand.

These inner bays (Ohungahunga and Waikata) are divided by a narrow peninsula, on the summit of which has been a most impregnable Pa,

In the East bay is the native village of Orurua, from which fresh water and supplies can be obtained.

The hills rising behind this village are remarkably red, which will point out Matai bay.

The only danger on entering the outer bay (Matai) is a rock just covered at high water, and in mid-entrance it has 25 fathoms all round it, and will almost always show. It is 1 1/4 mile N. N. E. of the peninsula, These bays cannot afford a good anchorage in a N. E. wind.

South east of Matai is a small bay also having a rock at its entrance. It is called Orurua bay.

North of Matai bay to Cape Karakara the shore is bold. The near off laying rocks being generally uncovered.

West of Cape Karakara are the Moturoa islets. The extreme islet is 3 miles west of the Cape, and no rocks without it. There are deep channels between some of these islets, and between them and

the main; but there are also sunken rocks midway between some of them, which only occasionally break, and therefore should not be attempted by a stranger, or indeed by any thing but small coasters.

From Karakara the land trends S. W. There is from 10 to 12 fathoms of sand across Karakara bay, which terminates with a flat topped hill 300 feet high, called Puheki, and which is a guide to Rangaounou or Awanui river, being 2 1/4 miles east of it.

The entrance to this river is in a bight 7 miles S. W. of Karakara point of Doubtless bay, a range of hills from 200 to 300 feet from the east head extending 2 miles up the river.

From the west head, which is sandy and low, the sand downs commence, and with the exception of Mount Ohora, are continued to Parengarenga, and occupy the whole neck extending on the west coast from Ahaipara to Cape Maria.

There are rocks above water off the North head, and one two-thirds of a cable off (awash). The channel has not less than 3 1/2 fathoms, and leads to an anchorage in from 5 to 7 fathoms, and if the rocky ground off Te Kotiatia point had a buoy on its outer entrance, it would leave a channel of not less than three cables.

On entering Rangaounou pass two cables from Motu Tara rocks off the East head, for there is one sunken outside those seen dry.

Steer S. by W. 1/2 W. shoaling from 7 to 3 1/2 fathoms until about two-thirds across the entrance. When Te Kotiatia point bears E. 1/2 S. haul up S. E. by E. 1/2 E. and pass fully half a mile from Te Kotiatia point, and when it shuts in the East head, anchor in 3 to 7 fathoms, sand, three quarters of a mile above the point.

This is the deepest water. Half a mile above this, the river flats, with narrow channels, commence.

Te Kotiatia point within 2 miles of the East head, is easily known as being the termination of a range of hills, and has a flat top.

Rocks extend one-third of a mile from East to South of this point.

The West shore again is shoal, but it is sand.

There are rocks also in Kohonga bay South of Te Kotiatia point, but they are above the anchorage.

There is no bar at the entrance of this river, but a mile from the mouth, a spit having 2 fathoms extends North, 2 miles from the West beach, but leaving a channel of 7 fathoms between it and the East head.

The low sandy beach extends from Ranga Ounou six miles E. by N., when Mount Camel rises 820 feet above the sea level.

Immediately to the N. E. of this mountain is a very snug bay, clear of danger and a good anchorage. A vessel might ride out any westerly gale from North to South in 7 to 5 fathoms, and fresh water may be obtained with a little difficulty, and an abun-

dance of fish. If on reaching the neighbourhood of the North Cape, from the Southward a vessel should meet with a North-West gale, instead of contending against it, they should at once proceed to Ohora bay.

One mile S. W. of the bay, is Ohora river, which on the approach of a N. E. gale, might be entered by vessels not drawing more than 15 feet. The high land on the north shore must be kept on board within half a cable on a West course, until a small round islet (Motu Otuna) is seen just opening to the left of Tokoroa Islet W. N. W., which is the course in.

Moor well over on the North shore soon after passing the South sandy point. Having the summit of the mountain bearing N. W.

As a sand spit extends half a mile from the South shore, the channel is rendered very narrow and the room for anchorage small, and the tide being very rapid, this river should only be run for under favourable circumstances, or on the first approach of bad weather.

There is another bay to the N. (3 miles) of the mountain, but the anchorage is not equal to Ohora bay. Between it and Ohora bay are two rocks awash, a quarter of a mile from the steep cliffs.

Leaving Ohora, three islets stretch to the northward, 1 1/2 miles from the coast, steep to.

The coast then trends N. E. by N. for six miles, low cliffs and sandy bays.

Then a sandy hay of 11 miles in length is terminated by Parengarenga. The soundings are regular off the coast, having 12 to 16 fathoms, from 1 to 2 miles off, sandy bottom.

Parengarenga is six miles South of the North Cape, has a Bar of 15 feet, a narrow entrance, but plenty of water within. It branches into three extensive creeks.

The bar generally breaks, but our open boats crossed it twice during Westerly winds. In N. E. winds it would be very heavy.

The outer part of the bar is 1 1/4 miles from the shore, and when at the entrance, Kohau or Coal point (a point 2 miles from the entrance) bears N. E., steer in West until a low sandy point is on with the point of Kotihau bearing W. S. W.

N. B. Kotihau is a cliff point 20 feet high, a mile beyond the sand point.

This course leads to a safe anchorage in 4 or 5 fathoms, but until this river is buoyed, the channel will be best seen from aloft.

When within the bar, the south shore is steepest.

From North Cape to Cape Maria is 21 miles direct.

The bays within the North Cape offer good anchorage in 5 to 12 fathoms in moderate westerly winds, but the back swell rounding the North Cape would render them bad anchorages in strong breezes.

Off the North Cape islets, foul ground extends for one-third of a mile N. E. by E., at the extreme of which is a rock which is only uncovered at low water. After rounding it, the steep red cliff rising at the Cape to 740 feet, gradually slopes for three miles,

An open bay (Tom Bowlin's Bay) has been a temporay anchorage for whalers receiving supplies from a native of that name; but it is a very exposed anchorage.

The coast now takes an easterly direction, bold and precipitous, with bare hills rising to 900 feet.

Midway to Cape Maria an islet extends from a rocky point, within this a sandy bay stretches W. S. W. for 3 miles, having a small stream at each end. From thence to Cape Reinga, the coast is rocky and precipitous, but apparently free from dangers, if we except a whirlpool which is spoken of, but which we have not yet seen.

From off Cape Reinga, Columbia reef extends eastward 2 miles, constantly breaking. There is a channel within it and the main for small vessels. But the soundings on this coast will undergo a closer examination this season.

Off Cape Maria is the Pandora bank (officially reported on December 11th, 1851). It is 6 miles S. S. W. half W. from the Cape, having 5 fathoms and generally breaking. Within it and the main is a channel of 15 fathoms.

Cape Maria Van Diemen is a projection from a sandy isthmus, and appears like an island, and not more than 100 feet high. Immediately N. E. of it, is a double islet about half a mile in circumference, but no channel within.

The long beach from Cape Maria Van Diemen, south, is a uniform hard sand. Twelve miles down is the small rocky islet of Motu Pea, 100 feet high, half a mile from the shore; it is the only unconnected spot on this coast, there appeared to be deep water within it; but the constant rollers would prevent a vessel from taking the channel.

The rocky (almost islet) of Monganui connected with the sands at low water, and about 10 miles S. E. of Motu Pea, are the only varieties in this monotonous sandy beach of 45 miles, ending at Ahaipara.

Ahaipara Bay.

At the extreme of the 45 miles sand beach extending S. S. E. from Cape Maria Van Diemen, is Ahaipara bay, in which under favourable circumstances, a vessel of any tonnage could ship the produce of the Victoria plains, and of the fertile country at the foot of the mountain range extending from reef point to the eastward.

There is a small bay (Ongonga) within, where boats can ship cargo.

The approach is clear, and the anchorage is after bringing Taw-roa reef point, to bear S. W. and the soundings will be

found to decrease gradually from 10 fathoms-the bottom fine sand.

Reef point (improperly so called) is a long low point sloping down from hills chequered with sand. A spit of sand extends from it westward which generally breaks, but does not run out above half a mile from the point.

A mile west of the point, we found 16 fathoms; the tide which runs from 2 to 3 knots, is imperceptible in Ahaipara bay.

S. W. and S. E. winds are favourable for laying at this anchorage. It would appear also sheltered from N. E., but as the gales from this quarter generally veer to N. W., it would not be prudent to remain.

H. M. S. 'Pandora' weighed at the commencement of a N. W. gale, and had ample time to get a sufficient offing.

Reef Point.
Lat. 33° 10' 30'' S.
Long. 173° 7' 00'' E.
H. W. F. & C. 8h. 45m. Rise and fall 7 feet.

Reef Point is a long and table projection. The shoal water extending from reef point appeared inconsiderable, but this we also hope to approach seaward. A mile and a half south is a remarkable sandy ravine. The sea is said to be encroaching here fast.

Herekino, or False Hokianga (nine miles south of Ahaipara) is only navigable for boats at the finest season of the year; at the mouth 9 feet at high water.

There are sand hills chequered with green patches on the North shore; from the south head the bare hills rise suddenly to the height of 800 feet, and continuing the same level to Wangape with a table summit, and deep ravines to seaward. Forty feet of timbers of H. M. S. 'Osprey' are left on the North entrance.

Wangape is 5 miles to the southward of Herekino. It has bold heads, but a rock is at the entrance which we have not seen, called Maniawa, and the channel is not more than a quarter of a mile in breadth.

If a ship came in here with a strong flood, she must inevitably go on shore one side or the other, at every turning the tide sets to the opposite shore. There is however 5 fathoms in the channels.

It must be a decked vessel of small tonnage to enter under canvass.

There is a sunken rock in the channel, but no bar, and the north channel is the best.

No vessel drawing more than 7 feet should approach Herekino.

From Wangape to Hokianga is 11 1/4 miles, S. E., about 5 miles brings you to the sand hills extending to the north head of Hokianga.

Hokianga.

The entrance to Hokianga from the Northward is known by the North head of the river being the termination of a sandy range extending for eight miles, varying from 100 to 300 feet high.

To the southward of Hokianga no sand hills are to be seen until passing Mongonui bluff, when it is all sand again to Kaipara.

Monganui bluff is very high land falling abruptly to the water 20 miles south of Hokianga, and on a tolerably clear day will be seen long before reaching Hokianga. There is no land like it on the coast, and is a good mark to make at any time for vessels approaching ports on the west coast.

A constant swell from the westward breaks heavily on the beach, and the bar is almost always breaking, and when this is the case, a vessel should be prepared for shipping a sea.

Three rollers, and you are over it.

No vessel should approach without a leading wind. She should be there so as to carry the flood into the harbour. But should the first of the ebb have made, and the bar should appear to be passable, it must still be borne in mind there is a tide of 5 knots per hour to contend against, with a chance of the wind failing; and the anchorage between the bar and heads is very bad.

Steering S. E. until you are within 4 or 5 miles of the heads, keep over to the eastward until you bring Martin's White Cottage on with the south head E. by N. 3/4 N. Keep this cottage (which may be seen five mites) a cable open for the deepest channel.

The outer edge of the bar is miles from the heads, it will be found to shoal from 8 fathoms to 3 1/2 at one cast.

Mongonui bluff is then in transit with a low point about six miles distant, and the shoalest of the bar is when Mongonui bluff is in transit with a nearer point, and when three points are in transit, the bar is crossed and the water deepens.

There are then two dangers (north of the channel) to be avoided – the Nine Feet rocks and a patch off the North head, making the channel at the heads narrow, but by keeping the south head on board, and the cliffs extending from it to Martin's bay just open, they are avoided.

It must be remarked, the ebb sets directly upon the south head spit, and in going out due allowance must be made for weathering it. On it the 'City of Edinburgh' lost her rudder, and small vessels have drifted on it during light winds.

There are no dangers in Martin's bay, and the holding ground is very good, but there is generally a considerable swell. It is therefore better not to anchor until passing the middle ground.

N. B. Vessels anchor in Martin's bay to wait an opportunity of crossing the bar which might be lost by being further up.

There is a good channel either side of middle ground, but the east channel is the broadest.

There is foul ground off the Wairohea, which frequently causes a race, and the outer ledge is only dry at springs.

When the south head is S. S. W., steer N. E. until Young's point

bears N. half E. Steer for Young's point until midway between the low Sandy point Rangi and Young's point. Then edge over to westward to avoid the bank south of Young's point, but do not shut in the north head with point Rangi.

After passing Young's point steer for the next – Kowwarri.

Abreast Mahenna island will be found the least water.

Keep a cable off Kowwarri point, which has rocks off it covered at halt tide. When Kowwarri point is abreast, steer for Tekaraka point, to avoid an extensive flat between it and Onoki, but when nearing Tekaraka edge away for Direction bead, not coming within a cable of Tekaraka, as rocks dry at low water extend from the southward of it.

The river course is now N. E. by E. and by keeping in mid-channel all dangers are avoided.

From Mutawhera point (steep to) keep Hurd's point (a long low point) on the starboard bow, to avoid the extensive flat formed by the Omanai.

From abreast of Hurd's point steer for the north point of the Narrows.

To pass through the Narrows, which are very deep, a vessel should have a commanding breeze or slack water, as the tide, sometimes of 4 knots, sets from point to point.

The only danger in the Narrows is the Kohatutakataka rock, which is covered at low water, and extends a third way across, from the north point of the upper end of Narrows, it is steep to from the southward, but there is no channel between it and the north shore.

From the Narrows give the north bank a fair berth, steering for Motuti (a low sandy islet).

Between this and Kokohu is the best anchorage, and vessels can proceed as far as Houraki, hut no further, and even here she would require to moor short, or head and stern. The channel to Hauraki is between Putupapaka, a low mangrove island, and the Mission Station point, keeping the south shore on board after rounding within half a cable of the Mangrove point of the Mission Station.

In beating down the river, as a general rule, do not get within a line of the point you leave, and the point you are approaching as the mud flats (however deep the bights) extend from point to point, and are invariably steep to.

The Narrows should be passed with a leading wind, unless a Pilot, understanding the set of the tides, should undertake to beat a smart vessel through.

Hokianga to Kaipara.

From Hokianga the coast lies S. E. The shore is rocky, with large boulders, until Monganui Bluff (2040 feet high) is passed; there is then 52 miles of straight sandy coast, with sand cliffs and hills rising to the height of 300 feet. From seaward will be seen two remarkable hills, of which Tokatoka, 620 feet high, is most

conspicuous. They are two miles apart, on the east bank of the Wairoa river.

Kaipara to Manukau.

From Kaipara South head to Manukau North head is S. E. by S. 45 miles; the first part, to Te-muriwai stream 26 miles, being undulating sand hills, with a range two miles in the interior, the highest bill being about 550 feet high.

The rest of the coast to Manakau is broken and cliffy, with intervening sandy bays. The hills over Manukau North head rise to 1280 feet, decreasing to 600 feet at the Te-muriwai, the whole wellwooded.

At the termination of the sandy coast, and half a mile from the shore, is the small rocky islet Oaia, with a rock awash a quarter of a mile north of it.

Parera islet is half a mile from the shore, and 4 miles north of Manukau; both these islands are about 25 feet high.

Waitakeri bay is the only part of the coast inhabited, 13 miles north of Manukau.

No landing can be effected on any point of this piece of coast.

Kaipara and Tributaries.

Kaipara entrance may be known by the sand hills at the North head, being 200 feet higher than along the beach; before reaching the breakers, the sand cliffs recede inland, leaving an extensive level of sand and swampy ground.

The land south of Kaipara is higher than that to the northward, and in clear weather the opening shows the dark hills on the eastern shores of the river mouth.

But the breakers will be generally seen from the mast-head long before the distinctions in the land are visible; the S. E. limit of them being 6 miles from the North head, and from the South beach at the main channel entrance. The whole extent of the outer limits is 11 miles, in a semi-circular form. Convex to seaward.

There are at present four channels; the northern is very narrow, and has from 2 1/4 to 3 fathoms, and should never be taken except under difficulties, or when a vessel standing too far over to it has been drawn into the channel by the tide. The "Aurora" was lost here.

The Fanny Channel, there is reason to believe, has opened lately. It generally breaks across, but in it there is 2 1/2 fathoms at low water. Vessels have lately taken this for the main channel, and have been surprised to find such shallow water. Coming along the breakers from the northward, the Fanny Channel will be the first opening seen, but except near high water, or under very favourable circumstances, no large vessel should attempt it. It has this advantage over the main channel; the course through to the North head is direct.

The main channel is 4 miles from the south beach, the narrow-

est part is three quarters of a mile broad, the extremes of the banks on either side break heavily, and 5 1/2 fathoms will be found at low water mid-channel.

When at the entrance, the present land marks are the middle green patch on the North Sand Head, N. 2° 30' W. mag. and the large green triangular tuft, elevated 430 feet on the south sand hills, N. 74° 30' E. mag.

The course in will be N. b. E. mag. As the outer extreme of the left bank is passed, which breaks heavily, the Tory shoal is seen, and the course will be N. W. pass either side of the Tory; but the north side is preferable.

The courses are so subject to the tides, that the eye will always be the best guide. Off the North Head a sand spit extends, making the passage between it and the Tory 1 1/4 mile broad. The water here is very deep, 20 to 25 fathoms. Through the main channel there is (until passing the North Head) water at any time of tide for any ship, and varying from six to twenty fathoms, sand.

The South channel is intricate, narrow, and not well known. The 'Sophia Pate' was wrecked in it.

Having passed within the breakers the course up the Kaipara is E. 1/2 N., avoiding the spit winch forms a tongue between the Wairoa and Kaipara, the extreme of which is generally breaking, steering for the first head land (red cliffs); after passing it keep the south shore on board for 2 1/2 miles, and anchor half a mile off the shore in an open bay before reaching Omokoiti, from which place the mud flats begin to extend, forming the channel between banks (which are steep to) which it is best to navigate at low water, when they are dry on each side.

The general course from the anchorage off Omokoiti to Aotea (a remarkable white cliff on the south bank) is S. E. for 7 miles, with the channel a mile broad. When 2 1/2 miles from the white cliff, the course wends to the southward, and the channel narrows. The anchorage off Aotea is the highest and safest in the Kaipara.

To enter the Wairoa after passing the North Spit, keep the land on board for 5 miles, until a mile from Pouto point, which is about 100 feet high, and its top flat (where a Pa has been). Then edge off, as a spit extends half a mile from the shore under Pouto point, which having passed, keep the shore on board again, and an anchorage off a watering place in from 13 to 6 fathoms will be found. This anchorage is under the second high cliff after passing a small islet joined to the land at low water, and the valley north of the cliff has the stream.

A monotonous range of white cliffs extends 16 miles up the Wairoa. The river runs nearly parallel with the sea coast at a distance of 5 or 8 miles until reaching Mongawhare, 24 miles above Okaru. Three miles above the watering place is Okaru, from where a native pilot can bo obtained. The two at present are Tomati and Manakau, and until the river is buoyed, recourse should be had to

their services in proceeding up this branch of the Kaipara. Ships at present take in timber at Mongawhare, where there is sufficient depth of water for any vessel in the trade.

From Mongawhare the river runs north-easterly, and becomes narrow and tortuous, but timber can, and has been supplied as high as Omano in a vessel of 300 tons. This station, with the windings of the river, is 21 miles above Mongawhare.

From the heads there are deep channels into the Oruawharu and Otamotea River, which until buoyed should be shown by a pilot, (the chart will best define them at present). These rivers have undoubted advantage over any other branch of the Kaipara, being near the heads, free from banks and dangers, and their shores comparatively free from mud flats, with fine soil, and plenty of timber, and their sources being within a short distance of Wangari, will, I think, eventually make them the most valuable branches of this great estuary.

The tides in the Kaipara and Wairoa vary in strength according to winds and freshes. They are strongest between the Tory and North Spit, and off the North entrance, until reaching the first white cliff in the Wairoa, when the influence of the Otamotea and Orua Wharu may be said to cease.

The ordinary springs run 5 miles an hour, and during strong gales or freshes, 7 miles.

The tides above in the Wairoa run 3 miles an hour, and continue that strength until near the head of the liver.

Above Mongawhare, a bore of considerable strength carries up the first of the flood, breaking upon the northern bank; although the tides of the river take the courses of the channels, they do not outside, but set directly over the banks, and this must be studied in navigating these channels. The flood outside runs to the south and the ebb to the north, following the direction of the coast; but on striking the outer banks, they flow and recede over them, and a vessel should not stand far into the great semi-circular bight among the breakers during the ebb-tide, or she will be carried on the banks.

Vessels leaving the Kaipara should be within 3 miles of the heads at the first of the ebb, if it is intended to beat through, and it is possible for a smart working ship to do so. If a fair wind is necessary, it must be remembered the morning land-wind will rarely carry a vessel clear of danger, and will probably leave her becalmed amongst the breakers.

Three Kings.

The Three Kings are a cluster of islands extending E. N. E. and W. S. W. 7 miles, the races and tides which run 5 miles an hour between them, frequently have the apperance of shoal water; but the 'Pandora' has sounded the different channels, and no danger whatever was found but what was above water. The only detached rock is a little above water about three-quarters mile E. of the largest island, and there is a channel within it. The largest

island was inhabited for two or three years by natives from the North Coast, but it is now deserted. The landing is very precarious at all times.

The south extremity of the Three Kings hears N. 64 1/4 W. (mag.) W. 21.9 miles from Cape Maria Van Diemen. Variations of Compass. 14° E.

All bearings given are by Compass.

High Water at Full and Change.

H.

M.

Kaipara Heads

10

55

Aotea Cliff (Kaipara Branch)

11

02

Watering Place (Wairoa Branch)

10

50

Under Tokatoka

12

23

Omano (Mr. Walton's)

2

29

Tangiteroria (Mr. Buller's)

3

10

Springs rise 11 feet. Neaps 8 feet.

High Water at Full and Change.

H.

M.

Hokianga Heads (rise and fall 10 feet)

9

45

Ahipara Bay

8

45

Cape Maria Van Diemen

8

00

North Cape

7

00

Parenga-renga (Coal or Kohau point)

7

54

Ohora River and Bay

8

48

Awanui and Rangaounou Heads

7

44

Mr. Southey's

10

00

Maitai Bay

8

00

The rise and fall round the coast is about seven feet at springs.

Fifteen miles from the land will take a vessel out of the influence of tides, except off Cape Maria Van Diemen. A mile and half from the shore they are generally twice as strong as 3 miles off.

Off Cape Maria Van Diemen the tides run from 3 to 5 knots per hour, and we found them strong on the Pandora bank. Indeed the tidal influence here extends to the Three Kings.

On the East coast the flood tide sets to the northward; on the North coast to the westward; and on the West coast to the southward.

Latitudes and Longitudes Astronomically determined.

Awanui (Tekotiatia point) 34° 53' 12" S. 173° 20' 04" E.

Maitai Bay (peninsula dividing the inner hays) 31° 50' 05" S. 173° 26' 30" E.

Ohoro River (point Repirepi) 34° 49' 45" S. 173° 11' 20"

Parengarenga (Kohau or Coal point) 34° 30' 40" S. 173° 02' 50" E.

North Cape (islet off) 34° 25' 07" S. 173° 05' 40" E.

Cape Maria Van Diemen (Cape islet) 34° 28' 30" S. 172° 40' 10" E.

Hokianga Heads (flagstaff) 35° 32' 05" S. 173° 24' 25' E.

Kaipara (watering place, Wairoa) 36° 19' 35" S. 174° 13' 00" E.

Kaipara (a whitewashed cliff at extremity of the bay N. of Omokoiti) 36° 27' 50 S. 174° 13' 29" E. '

Remarks on the River Hokianga.

The River Hokianga is the northernmost port on the West Coast that can contain ships of burden. It flows in a N. E. direction for 20 miles, between the wooded ranges of Waima and Punghuru, whose steep sides approach the bank of the river at distances varying from 4 to 10 miles, supplying the Hokianga by large tributaries winding through valleys of great capabilities.

These mountain ranges are from 1500 to 2000 feet in height, and the Maungataniwa, at the head of the Maungamuka, was found to be 2151 feet, (probably the highest mountain north of Hauraki Gulf).

The river is navigable and has few obstructions for 15 miles from the heads. The depth in channel varying from 4 to 26 fathoms, mud and sand; and the water salt to the source.

The bar is composed of dark green sand, with surface inequalities, the outer part being l 3/4 mile from the heads, and stretching from shore to shore. Its breadth is about a quarter of a mile. Between it and the heads the water deepens to 20 fathoms.

At low water springs, 16 feet will be met with, in crossing on the direction bearing, but at high water there will be four fathoms, and as the bar generally breaks, it should be taken at half flood.

(During the month of February, we crossed the bar when perfectly smooth at low water, neaps, having 16 feet, and drawing 13 feet 6 inches).

In the old plans there are three distinct channels laid down, namely – the North Channel, which was considered narrow, but deep, but objectionable because the swell would be on the beam. The S. E. Channel is laid down as narrow, but with nothing less than 3 1/2 fathoms; this is sometimes called Hurd's Channel, and the City of Edinburgh' of 600 tons, ran through it, having lost her rudder on the South Head rocks.

The fact is, I believe she ran over the bar, as may be the case

in any part of it, at or near high water, for vessels drawing 20 feet.

The pilot has been here twenty-three years, and he believed in the channels, although he kept to the middle channel, and never sounded. We were sure by watching the breakers from the heads, that they did not exist, for the sea curled over the whole extent; and we afterwards sounded the bar, having succeeded in getting two days during which it was perfectly smooth, and employed four boats in the service.

The result is, that the bar extends for two miles from N. W. to S. E., at the distance of 1 3/4 miles from the heads. At low water springs you must cross 17 feet. The mark for going in has been judiciously laid down by Mr. Martin, the pilot. His white cottage is built in the Bay in line with the south head, which takes you over the narrowest part of the bar, and by keeping it a little open off the head, we found the deepest water.

The pilot does not remember any change in the appearance of the bar, but I should think it very possible that the heavy floods and rapid tides might produce a change on these sands.

The tides at the head runs five miles per hour.

The banks of the river are every where approachable for boats at high water. At low water the mud flats (commencing four miles from the heads) are of considerable extent, generally soft and very steep to, and extending from point to point.

The first tributary of any importance is on the south bank between seven and eight miles from the heads (the Wirinaki.)

Creeks.

There are four extensive salt water creeks on the north-bank before reaching Wirinaki, meandering through miles of mangroves, and terminating near the foot of the Punghuru Mountains.

Names of Rivers.

Besides the Wirinaki, there are are the rivers Omanai, Waima, and Wairiri on the south shores. The Hauraki (a continuation of the Hokianga itself), the Orewa, the Maungamuka, the Motu Karaka, on the north shores.

General Account of.

These rivers can scarcely be considered navigable for vessels drawing more than six feet water, and the channels generally very narrow. About half way from their source, the water is fresh at half tide. The entrances are lined with mangroves for 2 or 3 miles, when the shores approach, wooded and steep, until the boughs reach across. In some the rapids are very strong after the rains. The bed of the Hokianga is for the most part soft mud, but near the mouth there is a hard sank bank called the middle ground, and for the first five miles the bottom has a sandy superficies caused by the great sand drift from the westward, which

has also impregnated the whole coast with sand for some miles into the interior. Indeed wherever the west coast has a slope sufficient to retain the deposit, it will be found to be of fine yellow sand of depth according to the exposure.

The argillaceous white cliffs, from 15 to 30 feet high, falling perpendicular to the high water, are common to both banks of the Hokianga. Off these and extending along the shore are huge boulders of iron sandstone, some of them 30 feet in circumference, and nearly round; they do not however reach beyond the low water mark.

The west bank of the river affords the greatest timber forests. The kauri is first seen up the Pupuwai, and the principal branches from which it is obtained are the Maungamuka and Orewa, but it has become scarce from the quantity destroyed by the natives in removing it.

There were two vessels came for timber this year (1851), and there are about four cargoes ready for vessels of 500 tons. But Kaipara seems to be more attractive, being nearer to Auckland.

A very small portion of the soil is cultivated, and there is a great quantity of land that might easily be cleared.

Two small schooners carry all the exports, which consist of hams, wheat, honey, and potatoes, and a small quantity of worked up plank.

There is however a vessel building of fifty tons in the Pupuwae, but there will not be sufficient trade to retain her services in the river.

That the trade of this river has declined considerably, is to be attributed to many causes. The demand for timber is about one-fourth of what it was, the difficulty of obtaining it is increased, and one of the principal exporters has gone to Kaipara.

There is now no demand for kauri gum.

The late war frightened many of the settlers, and when the Government brig came, few that embarked ever returned. There were then 200 Europeans in the river; there are now 75.

The inhabitants complain of want of protection, and a Magistrate should be sent here. They are exposed to repeated insults from the natives, and cannot afford to send to such a distance as Monganui or the Bay of Islands. One vessel some years ago was plundered, and merchant vessels are liable to insults from the ill-disposed natives. The larger proportion however are well disposed, and would back the authority of a Government Officer.

The climate during our stay in the month of October and November was variable, but the amount of rain, compared to Auckland, considerably less. The fogs we had heard much of, seldom lasted three hours, generally from daylight to about 8 a.m.

I subjoin an abstract of the weather during fifty-nine days.

The westerly winds are in proportion nearly three to one.

N. E.

N. W.

S. E.

s. W.

Calm.

D. H.

D. H.

D. H.

D. H.

D.

14 2

11 11

3 22

23 10

7

Fog 116 hours; thunder, twice.

Maximum temperature, 75°; minimum temperature, 52°; mean temperature, 62°.

During our stay, singular to relate, out of a compliment of 63 men, we had not one case of sickness, and, except a few slight contusions and bruises, incidental to our employment, no sick list, and this salubrity where men were necessarily exposed in boats, sleeping in tents, &c. Our food was chiefly fresh pork, which could be procured in any quantity for a trifle. No spirits, beyond the allowance, could be obtained, to which the sailor's health must in a great measure be attributed.

The natives are consumptive and scrofula and opthalmia are very prevalent.

We have the authority of several old European settlers in this river, that the natives, in their memory, have dwindled away more than one-half. A chief, whose assertion I believe, said he remembered counting 240 in his tribe, in his father's life time, 20 years ago, but he had now only 60; and during the excitement existing in the river between two tribes, the argument against fighting was, the tribes were becoming too small already.

Between the heads and Young's point, there are fresh water streams on either side where vessels can water. The most preferable is a small stream on the north shore, at the tail of the middle ground, and it is on Mr. Young's property; here with one boat we completed 26 tons in two days. The streams on the opposite shore are occasionally brackish.

The first creek on the north shore is the Pupuwae, on which some Englishmen were building a vessel of fifty tons, and a sawyer resides. It is all dry at low water, and a mile from the mouth expands into an extensive mangrove flat; a small fresh water stream winds among three remarkable peaks, and we saw the first kauri trees on their slopes. Above this valley is the termination inland of the great sandy range, and on its summit is a fresh water lake about three quarters of a mile in circumference; it appeared to be deep, and was covered with wild fowl, and is about 600 feet above the level of the sea. Several fish were seen jumping, apparently about a quarter of a pound. The Natives called them the Nioioni, described as a fish of many colours.

The next creek, Ohihupa, is all dry at low water. At the point Mata, near Ohihupa, is an Englishman's house (Munro) formerly a substantial wooden building, and the country between these creeks to the hills is excellent soil.

The Punehu runs two miles and a half, navigable for boats at full tide. The south bank is inhabited by natives, and well cultivated. Two Englishmen reside among them. The north shore

is thickly wooded with kauri and totara. At the head is another native village.

The Waiho, 7 miles from the heads, is of much the same nature as Punehu, at the head we found a deserted village (Wakarapa). The mangroves through which it winds extend across half a mile. The south bank partially cultivated, and at the head is a fine extensive valley clear of timber and uncultivated – terminating at the foot of the Punghuru range.

It is said small schooners have been some distance up, – if so, they must ground on the mud at low water. From Wakarapa the creek winds to the northward a mile, where we found the water nearly fresh.

The Motu-ti under Direction Head is a small but useful creek, as much timber is floated down from the forests. It extends about three miles in a N. N. W. direction.

The Motu Karaka, named after an island at the mouth, extends in a N. W. direction. It has only a foot at the entrance at low water, but deepens as you proceed. The hills on both sides are well wooded, about 100 feet high, but it is chiefly the puriri. The mangroves are extensive, but there are bold points on either side to the low water. Four miles from the entrance is fresh water, running through a plain. There is a small native settlement at the head.

There is no other stream of any consequence until we pass the Narrows, and come to the Mongamuka, a river of some considerable importance, and down this river most of the timber is conveyed. It is navigable for three miles at low water for vessels drawing under 12 feet, and the channel is more than a cable broad. Above this the channels are for some distance small and intricate. It improves again above, and as the water becomes fresh the timber ponds are seen off the north banks.

Five miles from the mouth, at the end of the mangroves, the hills descend steep to the water's edge, the channels are narrow, and the freshes come down with great force. The tide has now little influence, another mile and a half we come to the village of Mongatipa. On the south bank opposite this village the clay cliff is perpendicular 30 feet high. Pungaheke is, with the windings of the river, two miles above this. On the south bank is a small compact settlement of Wesleyan Missionary natives. Above this no boat can proceed, but the rapid stream winds through a valley admirably cultivated for four miles. There is a track (and indeed it is the main communication) over the shoulder of the Maungataniwa mountain to Kaitaia and Monganui.

There are, or rather have been, two English stations on the river. The one belonging to Mr. Cockrane a timber merchant – now in the Waima – the other to a Mr. Murray who has built a wooden bridge that must have cost much labour, connecting his establishment, on an island, with the main, for driving his cattle to pasture. The deserted site of Mr. Cockrane's establishment, three miles from the mouth, is now overrun with peaches

and figs, growing in great luxuriance amongst the flax and fern.

There is a creek near this – the Moturata, up which I am told there is excellent limestone, and the specimen we procured was almost equal to marble.

The river Orewa, running parallel to the Mongamuka, but of less extent, is also much used for transporting Kauri. There is a native settlement (Poaheke) at the mouth, all its members under the influence of the Wesleyan Mission, whose head station is on the opposite point of the Hokianga. There has been an English settler here, but his sawpit only remains.

The Kauri about two miles up the river is still very abundant. The water soon becomes fresh, which is important for preserving the spars. The head of the river divides into three small streams, running through a raupo valley, which forms a head to the river, in the shape of a spoon, about four miles from the mouth.

The Hauraki must be considered the termination to the main river (Hokianga), which becomes navigable only for boats from this. We explored it six miles, when it came to rapids. Near its source there is a road to the Bay of Islands, and there is one English settler on its banks, besides Mr. McDonnell's large station above the Missionary settlement.

Coming down the Hokianga on the left or southern shore, below the Narrows we come to the largest (and hereafter, no doubt, the most important) tributary, the Waima. At near high water, vessels of twelve feet draught could get into the river and anchor in four fathoms, and afterwards might go up, lying safely on the mud. However, it is no doubt better adapted for such trading vessels as could naturally bring its resources to the Hokianga. It runs in an easterly direction for eleven miles, until you come to the rapids.

A Mission Station (Wesleyan) is within three miles of this, but on a branch that runs to the south, and about half a mile from the river. Here we found good houses, a considerable portion of land cultivated by the Rev. Mr. Warren and his maories, and a large amount of cattle grazing; but the land under cultivation in this beautiful valley is a very small proportion, It is the finest of many fine valleys we have seen; it terminates under the Waima hills, is about six miles long, by three miles broad, and, as Mr. Warren remarked, capable of producing sufficient to feed thousands, and with the advantage of river conveyance for its produce.

I have heard that the chiefs had combined to retain this valley, and no offer was to be taken for it.

The banks of the Waima are very thinly peopled indeed; except at two English stations, we met no natives until we reached the Mission. The country is varied, passing through raupo swamps, and wooded hills steep to the water's edge, with the full proportion of mangroves for the first three miles. However, the water soon becomes fresh, and the mangroves give way to the

raupo or reed prevailing for the next three miles. It then becomes picturesque with the wooded banks to the water's edge. We did not see much Kauri. There is an excellent bridle road from the Mission Station to the Bay of Islands, – a day's ride.

The Omanaia, south of Hurd's Point, runs four miles to the eastward, and has its banks under cultivation by the natives, and a tribe residing near its source. The hills, of moderate height, are cleared on both sides. Its navigation is similar to the other stream, and fresh water is met with three miles up.

The Wirinaki, the last tributary of any consequence on the south shore, and seven miles from the heads, presents a channel deep and broad for the first mile, but has at low water only a foot at its mouth. It has more natives than any of the former, and the creeks meandering through the mangroves from the main stream, lead to their wharres.

The village and pa of Wirinaki is about five miles by water, it is there a clear fresh water stream, but so narrow that a boat can only use paddles. This stream is in falls, rushing down the Waima range, and passing from thence through a large open country to Wirinaki. Some Europeans were searching this stream for gold; but I am not aware that anything was found beyond iron pyrites and some small pieces of quartz which were shown us. One European resides in the river, and Mr. Manning's timber establishment is at the mouth.

The principal points or heads on the Hokianga are occupied by English, – Young's Point, or Kehotu-Mongero, Onoki Point or Manning's Point, Munroe's Point, Hurd's Point, or Rawi-ne. Mr, Russell's station, or Ko-ko-hu, the Wesleyan Mission Station opposite to Ko ko-hu, and Mr. McDonnell's, at Houraki, are the principal stations. The largest native village is Pakenhae, whose chief, Rangatira, has much land under cultivation.

Ko-ko-hu is one of the best residences in New Zealand and its proprietor, Mr. Russell, the chief exporter of timber. Ships of any burden can anchor off it.

The Wesleyan Missionaries in the Hokianga deserve great credit. The result of their labours is pleasingly evident, and when we regard the small means by which they have diffused the rays of Christianity among scattered and frequently hostile tribes, it becomes a pleasure to announce the fact in connexion with the names of Hobbs and Warren.

I will give one instance that came under our immediate notice up the head of the Mongamuka: – Being encamped among a tribe of Nga-i-tupatos, we were much struck with the sudden termination of an evening's hilarity. They assembled round the chief's wharre, repeated the Lord's Prayer, sung hymns, and then retired to their respective huts; and repeated their orisons at daylight, before smoking or proceeding to their fields.

Within the immediate range of the Mission Station the Maories are free from tattoo. Nearer the mouth of the river, at Pakenhae,

they have been less successful, partly owing to the distance from the focus of the Mission, and partly because the present chief (Rangatira) is too much addicted to his own gratifications to embrace a faith he conceives inconsistent with his liberty.

That the warrior and native missionary can combine their occupations we had a good instance of judging. On a Sunday we met a native, Abraham, dressed in a black frock coat, white, cravat, and altogether attired as a missionary. He had just been preaching, and he seemed hurt that we did not remember him. We knew then that we had seen him, and it was when he headed a war-dance, almost naked, a few days previous, when two tribes with loaded arms had nearly come to blows,

I will only add one more trait in the native character here, as I have so often heard their honesty disputed, –

Our tents were erected in various parts of the river; our boats were exposed to their visits; clothes washed and left to dry on shore. The ship had frequent visitors, and no restraint was placed on their visits, excepting Sundays, and we left without losing the smallest article. I may add we never saw occasion to take a musket or arms of any kind in the boats, therefore this (perhaps the greatest) temptation was avoided.

On our second visit, in Feb. to sound the bar, we washed clothes near the mouth of the river, under White Mountain, where a man had stolen a jacket, trousers, shirt, and handkerchief. When I was acquainted with it, I spoke to the chief of Pakenhae, who, with other chiefs was on board, and told him how pleasing it had been to us to relate at Auckland, and wherever we had been, that the Hokianga natives might be trusted with any thing, and that we had left the river with the strongest confidence in their honesty. After this flattery he was told what had now occurred. He assured me none of his tribe could do it. I said I felt certain of it too. But I knew his influence and the friendship he maintained with the other chiefs would recover the articles, and as to the punishment of the offender we felt certain the chief of his tribe would see to that himself.

He asked to be landed immediately, at 8 p.m., he ran about four miles to the chief on that side the river, and was off to the ship, with all the articles, before midnight.

He said it was some stragglers from the coast about Wangape; that he, with that chief, mounted horses, and overtook them about four miles over the sand hills, – and probably true. Our second visit to Hokianga was for five days during the early part of February, during which time we were fortunate enough to get the bar sounded.

The pilot, Martin, who has been at the mouth of the river twenty-three years, thinks there may be eight or nine days in the year when the bar might be crossed without a break.

I obtained from him the following answers to queries, –

It blows hardest from the N. W. to S. W. The heaviest gales from the S. W., and in the month of June.

The coldest months are June and July.

The warmest months December and January.

The east winds are more common in summer than winter, and draw round to the south; are looked for at new moon, and last three days.

It rains most in July, August, and September.

During heavy westerly gales the neaps are as high as ordinary springs, and sometimes the rise has been four feet above ordinary springs.

Fogs prevail in October and November.

The greatest number of shipping in the river at one time were seven, each averaging 500 tons.

The longest time a vessel has been detained at the mouth is sixteen days, except once, when a vessel was detained six weeks.

One vessel has foundered on North Head; two have struck on the Bar; a large ship lost her rudder going out, being set by tide on South Head.

The principal collections in Botany were fifty varieties of ferns, many lichens, &c.; but the country having been previously botanized by Allan Cunningham, it is probable our indefatigable collectors, Dr. Jolliffe, Lieutenant Jones, and Mr. Simmonds, will have found little new.

The principal trees are the Kauri, the Koroe, the Rata, the Kikatou, the Rimo, the Tiri-puriri Pukatari, &c.

The English fruits of every description thrive well (gooseberries excepted). Oranges will not come to perfection.

There is much monotony in geological research. In Conchology we found a small variety of shells, but few were obtained with the dredge.

Among insects we found the Koropeke of the largest description whose body was larger than a mouse.

MERCURY BAY.

Mercury Bay, so called from Captain Cook having observed the transit of Mercury here, is a large inlet, between Cape Colville and the Bay of Plenty, affording anchorage during westerly winds, in sandy bays on its north and south shores, but the most preferable is that known as Cook's Bay, at the mouth of Oyster River.

At the head of Mercury Bay, in the south west angle is a mangrove river, which has a snug anchorage, secure in every wind, which will be hereafter described.

The entrance to Mercury Bay is 4 1/2 miles across, north and south.

It is approached from the northward by either entering between Mercury Islands group and the Alderman's, or by hugging the the coast, – the latter often preferred for the sake of keeping the weather shore on board.

The outer channel shows all dangers with the exception of a rock (a mile N. W. of the outer Mercury Island), which occasionally breaks, and has deep water all round it.

There is 40 fathoms between these islands and the Aldermans, decreasing to 20 across the entrance of the bay.

To approach by the inner channel –

Having passed Mercury Island, and reaching the point 2 1/2 miles S. 8. E. of it, forming the west point of a deep bight, and having small islets off it. This point is clear of rocks. Three quarters of a mile off the next point will be seen a round islet, – midway between it and this round island, a rock laid down in the Acheron's chart, and seldom breaking, must be avoided by keeping the point close on board.

There is then another rock (which is nearly awash at low water) in a line between this and the steep grey islands. Koruengai, at the north entrance of Mercury Bay but which the Pandora must have passed within her length, as she beat through this channel before observing it. It is preferable to shape a course outside this rock and the Islands, although there is a channel of 9 fathoms within, avoiding another rock, covered only at high water, a cable off the north point of Mercury Bay.

Having passed this, Koranga Island, 150 feet high, and islet off it, are steep to – The Twins, a double conical islet, 1 1/2 miles within, are also steep to – before reaching them is Mata Pana Bay, having 5 fathoms, sandy bottom; off the west point of this bay a ledge of rocks extends one-third of a mile towards the Twins. The North Shore to Buffalo Bay is now clear.

The middle island in Mercury Bay (native name Motu Korure) has foul ground 2 cables off the N. E. and S. E. extremes is bold to the westward.

Moturoa Tower rock, rising abruptly 188 feet, within a mile of the southern entrance, has also foul ground two cables round it.

On approaching Mercury Bay from the southward, there is a rock, seldom showing, but occasionally breaking heavily; it has from 9 to 13 fathoms all round it. It bears N. 42° W. 3/4 of a mile from Te-Tui or Mahurangi, the island forming the south entrance of Mercury Bay, and it bears N. 80° E., 1 1/2 miles from Tower Rock. The passages amongst these islands are complicated, and to be avoided.

There are no other dangers in Mercury Bay until Shakespeare's Cliff is passed, and the soundings will be found to decrease gradually, having 10 fathoms on either side of Middle Island, and 5 fathoms up to the Shakspeare's Cliff, where a vessel may anchor, but should not proceed higher unless intending to enter Mangrove River.

To sail into Mangrove River, run midway for Buffalo beach, at the head of the bay. By keeping the Twins just open off Koranga Islet N. 35° E., Fly bank is avoided, and hauling up for the river, steer a middle course; but avoid a spit on the beach side by keeping a distant round red hill on with High Pah Point.

This spit extends off the beach, just before reaching the low pah at the entrance of the river, and after passing this pah, moor in mid-channel. Vessels undergoing repair haul alongside the builder's yard, or run aground above High Pah Point.

The tides require studying, and vessels should go in at last quarter flood. It would be better to be there at slack water, for there is no room to round to, and the tides run 3 to 4 knots per hour. The least water in the channel going into the river has at low water springs fourteen feet, at high water twenty-one feet.

The river above the high Pah, although extensive, is only navigable for boats.

Water can be always procured round the High Pah Point. There are few natives; but there is a carpenter's yard off the anchorage, where ships have been repaired, but I regret that its present occupier, Mr. Lloyd, is about to leave, having, at present, insufficient inducement to remain.

Mangrove River causes the tides in Mercury Bay to be scarcely perceptible on the south shore, but on the north shore, at springs, they run 1 1/2 knots. This can be taken due advantage of in working in or out.

If, on the approach of an easterly gale, it is required to run for Mangrove River, it should be taken as soon as possible, for the sea rolling into the bay will break across the shoaler parts of Buffalo Bay. One of Mr. Lloyd's men, at the entrance of the river, might act as pilot if required.

The northern shores of Mercury Bay are wooded. The treble peak, rising above Mahungrape is 1026 feet high.

The south shore is barren and uncultivated. A long flat country extends from the head of Buffalo Bay to the high ranges of Coromandel.

The native population of Witiangi is very small; There are no wharres on the south shore, and only small patches of cultivation at the mouth of Oyster River. On the north shore there are about 30 inhabitants in Mata Pana Bay, well-behaved Christians. Their settlement, called Tiraupua, just within the north head. The chief is 6 years of age.

Whare-Kaho and Ohuki, at the head of the bay, are more extensive settlements, but they do not cultivate beyond their own requirement. They migrate to Mercury Islands, and the bay was almost entirely deserted during September.

Oyster Creek is hardly navigable for canoes, although of considerable breadth.

In Mangrove River, at Whanga Maroro, there is a large settlement; four miles from the mouth of the river is a flax-mill, in good order, but not worked at present. The other branches of this river, winding through fine districts, have ruined sawmills and delapidated bridges, – tokens of enterprise not ill-bestowed on the country, but apparently in advance of the times.

Captain Cook's observations on Mercury Bay show the remarkable changes that have taken place in the last 70 years – not only in the decrease of population, but in the physical changes of the coast. He describes, and leaves a sketch of a rock connecting Marhanganape and the main, with its arch under it, and on it a pah; it still exists, and in similar shape, but has dwindled to such a small, sharp rock, that where the pah was, a man could only stride as on a horse. Similar effects have taken place on Shakspeare's Cliff, which is fast supplying rocks to the deep below – indeed, the whole coast here is more than ordinarily perforated, and one cave on the north shore was penetrated to 400 feet, having there a depth of four fathoms.

Huki-Huki Pah, Entrance to Mangrove River.
Lat. 36° 48' 44" S. Long. 175° 46' 06"
East of Auckland. Depot Point
Variation 15° East.

H. W., at F. & C., – 7h. 21m.
Springs rise, 7 feet, Neaps, 4 feet,

TAURANGA HARBOUR.

Between Mercury River and Wellington, Tauranga in the Bay of Plenty is the only safe anchorage in all winds for vessels of burden. There is room for a fleet.

The approach to it is remarkably distinct. The difficulty of entering this harbour in its deepest channel; is the somewhat tortu-

ous course and the liability to eddy winds on rounding Mount Monganui, and the channel at one place is only half a cable wide, but during those winds which would cause the Bay of Plenty to be a lee shore, Tauranga is most accessible, and the following directions are the results of the Survey of H. M. S. Pandora, in November, 1852.

1 On approaching Tauranga from the northward, the Mayor island should be brought to bear north, when a high flat-topped hill (Monganui) will make at first like an island. It rises abruptly from the sands, and forms the eastern head of the harbour.

On approaching nearer, an Islet (Motu-otau) and a hummocky projection from the sand, both within a mile east of Monganui, are the only interruptions to a uniform sandy beach, extending 16 miles S. easterly to Maketu.

The west entrance of Tauranga is formed by low undulating sand hills.

The island of Karewha (a rugged island about half a mile in circumference) 6 miles N. E. by N. of Monganui, is two miles off this sandy beach, having a channel on either side, of 12 to 15 fathoms.

The soundings decrease gradually towards the harbour, from abreast of Karewha, 15 fathoms, and 7 fathoms a mile from the heads. The course in, will now be S. 7.45 E. or S. 3/4 E., avoiding a spit that generally breaks more than a mile out and extending a mile off the west shore. Mongonui at first is bold. The channel in is 1/3 of a mile wide, deepening from 4 to 7 fathoms, until reaching the S. W. extreme of the Monganui, from whence a stony point extends two-thirds of a cable, which although generally visible, is covered at 3/4's flood.

If it is intended to haul round to the east channel, (where there is an excellent anchorage under the mountain) the extreme of this spit should be seen, for the channel here though deepest is not much more than half a cable.

After Stoney Point is passed, Monganui is quite steep to, and a good anchorage is found in the first sandy bight in 6 fathoms, a cable from the shore.

Vessels of any size can proceed a mile and a half above the channel, having 5 to 7 fathoms; it is best to keep about a cable off the H. W., and the line of bank opposite (which is steep to) will almost always be distinct. Here will be seen a small rise of ground, immediately above which the channel divides, one running to the westward with irregular soundings, and the other continuing towards Te Papa gradually shoaling. A vessel could moor half a mile north of Te Papa having 17 feet at low water

springs, and she will then be near three miles from the harbour's mouth.

There is another anchorage near the western entrance to Tauranga , which if buoyed would be generally the simplest. It is by keeping on the same course S. 3/4 E., and passing along the western shore, until Monganui is shut in by the west sandy point Panipani.

There is a bank, the White Bank, to be avoided two-thirds of the way across from Monganui to the west beach. This bank is a quarter of a mile long, and lies north and south, and has two feet water; within there is a channel, for small craft only.

To clear this bank, continue the course in S. 3/4 E. until the extreme point Panipani bears S. W. 1/2 W., and haul up towards this sand point which is steep to, keeping Monganui just shut in, and an anchorage, 6 fathoms sand, will be found 1/2 a mile beyond the point.

From this anchorage, vessels can leave without detention, whereas, within Monganui bluff, the prevailing wind being westerly, and the channel off Stoney Point being very narrow, a ship may be detained.

Above Te Papa, there is only a boat channel amid extensive flats, and three miles above, it narrows again into a small but deep river running to the southward, which is navigable for boats 15 miles, and by it, a journey can be accomplish'd to the Rotorua lakes in less than two days.

The western branches of Tauranga are connected at high water, with the Kati Kati.

The mouth of the river Wairoa, 2 miles S. W. from Otumoiti, runs south-westerly from 12 to 15 miles.

Te Papa, the residence of Archdeacon Brown, is a thorough comfortable English establishment, the site well chosen on elevated ground, on the south side of the harbour 3 miles from Monganui.

Two miles to the westward of it is the village of Otumoiti, where there is a Roman Catholic establishment, and a very neat church, the interior gorgeously decorated by native wicker-work.

Four or five Englishmen reside here, chiefly engaged building small craft, and I am informed, three Frenchmen live at the mouth of the Wairoa.

The total native population of the Tauranga district is estimated at 1000, and large tracts of land are under cultivation.

The greatest strength of the tides is 3 knots; at Stoney Point it may reach 4.

The middle flats are hardly ever uncovered, having from 1 to 4 feet at low water.

During the 23 days we were in Tauranga, it blew very fresh almost continually from the S. W., but we were assured such strong winds were unseasonable. We had little rain.

During the 25th and 26th November, a fog lasted for 48 hours, succeeded by a strong N. W. breeze.

Water can be obtained just within Stoney Point, in small quantities. The natives provided us with pigs and poultry at reasonable rates.

Latitude of Monganui, Apex ... .. 37° 34' 50".
Longitude of " " .. .. 176° 12' 5S" E.
H. W. at F. and C. – 7h. 10m. Rise and Fall 6 feet.

MANUKAU HARBOUR.

Her Majesty's Surveying Vessel "Pandora,"
At Sea, May 3rd. 1853.

SIR, – I have the honour to forward, for the information of His Excellency the Governor, this report upon Manukau Harbour, the Survey of which was completed to-day, and I have the greatest satisfaction in informing His Excellency that there is a straight and direct channel of considerable breadth into this harbour, through which, H. M. S. "Pandora" passed to-day at near low-water in 4 1/4 fathoms.

At spring tides low water, there is not less than 3 1/2 fathoms, at high water not less than 5 1/2.

The straightest line out of Manukau having the three most conspicuous objects in transit, namely, the Ninepin, the extreme of Paratutai. and the extreme of Poponga, was the course we steered out, which I felt so sure from observation was a clear channel, that we carried studding sails over it, at low water.

Thereby divesting the entrance of Manukau Harbour of a great proportion of a bank, that has hitherto been laid down as facing the Harbour.

There is certainly least water on the position of this bank than elsewhere, nor do I deny that it is possible there may have been still less water, but it has not been crossed before, except I believe by vessels, surprised to find themselves in safety on the other side. 2

Hitherto there appears to have been little known of the access to this harbour, or of the depth of the channels within, and a strong prejudice has existed against it, for reasons I will attempt to clear up, for some of these we are indebted to accidents as proof of its practicability.

First. – It is a common error to believe that the breakers extend connectedly across the Heads, because when viewed from Poponga the middle bank which is always breaking, faces this view.

Secondly. – From the land about Paratutai it will appear to

break across also, for the Orwell and middle bank would here over-lap.

A similar cause occurs when viewed from the foot of the South Head, but, once in the channel, between the Heads, and the sea is open before you.

Thirdly. – It appears that the "Eclair," and small traders have fallen into the same error, and have preferred waiting for an opportunity to pass through a shoal and narrow passage near the South Head, which frequently detained them for days, when such vessels could with facility have beat down with the tide, having never less than half a mile in the channel, and increasing in breadth from Paratutai outwards.

Now, sir, in regard to changes that may have taken place in the entrances to Manukau, although the above reasons explain away the want of belief in a fair channel, they in no degree effect the accuracy of the Survey of Mr. Ormsby, or the more recent Survey of Mr. Smith of H. M. S. "Acheron,"

The former gentleman delineates a channel after passing the middle bank, without, it appears, having intended to go directly out.

Mr. Smith has corroborated it, and added many soundings, and he shows also a north channel of half a mile wide, of three fathoms, but having given us the outer bank without soundings, we conclude he did not cross it either, it then becomes a question whether this has undergone a change, if so, a change of great benefit, giving a fairer channel in, and whether the northern channel which appeared to us to be breaking considerably at the depth given, is not in consequence less eligible.

On entering Manukau through the Ormbsy Channel, when there was a tolerable south swell, we remarked that the position of the outer bank did not break. Subsequent observations by officers stationed at the Heads, confirmed this, and the master and myself crossed the outer bank in a boat, but an unusual fog coming on we were thrown entirely out of the line being unable to see Paratutai; we however crossed into deep water over that shoaler portion of the bank near the north channel having only 11 feet (low water springs.)

We found on laying down the work, we had crossed to the northward, and therefore it did not deter us from taking the straight channel out in the "Pandora," which we did on the day after a westerly gale, without a breaker.

I have been thus particular in bringing this portion of the report to notice, in order that unnecessary expense may not be incurred by establishing a fixed Light-house, where it might possibly be an advantage to shift it.

My opinion is, that it is quite possible that the configuration of sand banks subjected to the joint influence of tides, freshes, and gales are liable to vary, and yet I think it more than probable that the present straight channel should remain, as it has taken (if in-

deed it ever shifted) its natural course, the direction of the Harbour.

Besides this channel into Manukau, I have already mentioned another laid down to the northward, half a mile wide, having 3 fathoms water, but I should neither recommend it, or the small intricate channel to the southward, since we have a direct and deeper.

The soundings, on approaching Manukau from seaward, decrease very gradually.

The extreme of the outer bank channel is three miles from the heads, the depth of water in steering in between the Orwell and south bank varies from 8 to 16 fathoms, – these banks are steep to, and always shewing.

In the channel only it breaks in gales at the shoalest part; in ordinary winds it certainly does not. During three weeks the officers were employed about the Heads, it was not seen breaking, although strong winds prevailed.

At the mouth of the harbour the channel decreases in width (half a male), this is off Paratutai, or North Head, and here the tide runs four knots at springs; at the outer channel tides rarely reach two.

The south head is a mile within the north head, and has a spit extending half way across towards Paratutai, but there is now a clear deep channel towards Karangahapi, with a bold shore.

Off Huia on the north shore, three miles from Paratutai, is anchorage in five fathoms, but the anchorage after rounding Karangahapi is the best in all winds. Or if it is intended to go to the Waiuku or Papakura, there is anchorage within Kauri Point opposite.

From these points Manukau expands to a breadth of 15 miles by 12, having three channels navigable for vessels of any tonnage to three equidistant and most valuable districts, viz., Onehunga, Papakura, and Waiuku.

These channels are with small exceptions nearly straight, and having dry banks on either side at low water, they offer a sheltered anchorage at any point.

The channels continue their depth to within the heads of Waiuku and Papakura, and close up to Onehunga.

There are besides two deeper channels leading along the North shore, the one branching off Onehunga, middle channel at Shag Point (Okewha) to the Wahau portage, and joins the middle Onehunga channel off Matengahe or Cape Horn, though at this point it is only navigable at high water.

The other outer Onehunga channel, comes up direct from Karangahapi, and would have been the best channel to Onehunga, but it fails in depth where it enters the mid channel, it is useful to the lands around Pukitutu, and indeed is generally available, as it would have 22 feet at high water where it is most difficult.

The general nature of the bottom of all the channels, is a greenish sand and mud, good holding ground. The tides within them

average at springs 2 1/4 knots, there are no rocks, and no uneven ground, and the banks being soft sand and shells are not likely to injure a vessel on touching.

One tide will suffice to carry a vessel from the heads with a leading wind to any of the above districts.

It will be observed, these remarks are suited for vessels of any burden, but the Manukau flats can be traversed by boats according to the tides, and unlike the banks outside, here we have the smoothest water over them, the tide taking the course of the channels.

The banks are generally covered soon after the first quarter flood, but they vary in height, and some are never uncovered, especially those facing the Waiuku channel where there is generally 4 feet at low water, and only small spots that dry.

Having made these general observations on the channels, I come to their more immediate description.

Onehunga middle, or main channel, leads along the coast from Poponga. A flat extends from Karangahapi off which is the anchorage.

From Karangahapi there is a straight channel to Shag Point (Okewha) one-third of a mile broad with 4 1/2 fathoms at low water.

The distance from Poponga to Shag Point being 4 3/4 miles.

Here the channel divides, the inner one along the Muta Karaka having a depth of 12 fathoms near the portage, but as before mentioned difficult at Cape Horn.

At Shag Point, (Okewha) the channel splits, the inner running along the coast.

The main channel here is scarcely a 1/4 of a mile, and strikes off to the westward, and gradually curves again to Cape Horn; just before reaching Cape Horn, there is least water, it is where the three channels join, at 13 feet low water.

(Matengahe) or Cape Horn, is 2 3/4 mile below Onehunga, it is steep to, as also are some of the other points before reaching Onehunga, and a the flat extending from the town renders shipment very inconvenient, I think these head lands will be valuable, besides being about the nearest points to Auckland. And the anchorage is wider than that immediately off the lower end of Onehunga, where there is, however, a pool of 3 fathoms at low water.

The general anchorage for Onehunga, would be below the White Cliff or Tetapere.

The coast up to Onehunga is generally formed by low perpendicular cliffs.

There are two broad creeks of no depth, besides several smaller streams in the various bights.

The points are of a soft grey level sand stone, extending in straight layers from the points to the S. W. but in some instances taking a curvelinear form, Karangahapi bay has deep iron sand.

The Papakura channel cutting through the middle of the flats is 12 1/2 miles in length, has 8 to 10 fathoms for the first three miles, and never less than four to within the heads where there is 4 1/2 fathoms.

The Wata Paka falls into it 4 miles up having 3 to 4 fathoms for two miles, when it becomes narrow and winding with 1/2 a fathom to its head.

The Pukaki joins two miles above this having a good boat channel.

The Waiuku channel commencing from Te Hohono Point opposite to Poponga, is 6 miles to its head, averages 8 fathoms, decreasing to 4 near the Heads.

There is a hole of 17 fathoms at the entrance and 6 fathoms after passing the Heads in which depth there is anchorage a mile within.

Vessels not drawing more than 12 feet can go up as far as the Needles, 14 miles from the portage.

The Taihiki, a tributary one mile within Karaka Point, is navigable for craft drawing six feet water, for two miles.

The channel into the Waiuku is along the coast, and it is generally steep from point to point.

Having shown that Manukau possesses three channels formed by nature, of sufficient depth to allow the largest vessels to enter into the heart of the country at three equidistant points, it is unnecessary and would be presumptuous in me to describe a surrounding country so well-known.

In framing this report of the harbour, we should be doing injustice to the subject, if in proving its easy access we lost sight of the most essential questions. Is it always so? – and is it so at night?

I am not prepared to recommend a vessel to run for Manukau in a gale, for on such occasions there would be a continuous break, and leading marks might be obscured, fortunately such gales however frequent are not of great duration.

As to entering at night I should consider the light on the extreme of Poponga as a leading mark to such persons who have became acquainted with the Port, and especially in command of a steamer, for which Manukau is peculiarly eligible.

When a flag-staff is established on Paratutai, vessels can be guided as at Hokianga, the dipping of the arm would make known when a vessel is too far over either way, and when this is established vessels will not fear working out with the tide.

His Excellency, I am aware, is fully prepared to give effect to any means benefitting this harbour, and as a seaman I can state I believe; nothing would add to the confidence of intending visitors, more than the establishment of the Signal Station.

From the Station, One Tree Hill near Onehunga being conspicuous, might be made the medium of communicating with Auckland.

The reports of the levels from two different points of the Manukau, as well as sections and plans, have already been delivered by me to the Colonial office.

The interesting and valuable levels from Waiuku to the Waikato, I am assured are satisfactorily completed, and I only remark that it appears to me a matter of consideration in forming the canal here whether it would not be done more reasonably and effectually by cutting through the morass as far as the woods which from (I acknowledge) casual observations would save at least half the distance, and the same water could be turned to this channel.

A similar cut through the forest would undoubtedly be a work of great labour, but fortunately, here it is not needed, as the course is comparatively much straighter.

The clearing out of this portion of the Awaroa which endangers the navigation of canoes and renders that of boats almost impracticable, could be done I think by the desire of His Excellency. The impediments are trees, that were principally thrown across by the Waikato tribes to prevent the descent of the murderous E. Hongi, and have been no doubt added to by the occasional undermining of trees during the freshes. It is well known that many valuable native cargoes have been lost and damaged, in consequence of these obstructions, and I find on enquiry that the natives only require a little well timed advice, and perhaps small assistance, to remove an obstacle that is at the present moment impeding the trade to Waikato.

If it should be hereafter determined to cut the canal to the forest, independent of the Serpentine windings of the Awaroa until reaching the forest, it would appear to me that a swamp of moderate breadth about a 1/4 of a mile west of Mr. Constable's Inn would offer a less level than a direct line from the creek there, but upon this point I offer suggestions with deferrence, and only to open a consideration on a point probably already better determined.

The survey of this harbour on a large scale, (six inches to a mile) was made at the request of the Colonists, conveyed through Lieutenant-Governor Wynyard, and I have no hesitation in recording the names of the officers employed during part of a most unseasonable summer which prolonged our work.

The open boats in which they and the crews lived and slept were absent from the ship in the channels for a fortnight at a time, but no casualty or sickness of any kind occurred.

Mr. Kerr (acting master) and Mr. H. Kerr were employed in the 'Maori' cutter, in sounding the outer waters.

The latter officer, also with Mr. Stanley, master's assistant, walked and surveyed the coast line from Kaipara Heads to Manukau.

Mr. Oke, 2nd master, with Mr. Ellis, conducted the investigation of the Papakura and Waiuku channels, and Messrs. Blackney and Farmer sounded and surveyed the three channels leading to Onehunga.

Mr. Blackney also accompanied me in the survey of the Waikato Heads.

I have also much pleasure in mentioning the zealous manner in which the work was carried on during my necessary absence by Lieutenant Jones.

I annex the time of high water, full and change at different points. A description of the site for Signal and Light Stations, as well as the number and description of buoys and perches required for each channel.

The position of these buoys are marked on our charts, and I will immediately place a tracing of the entrance and sailing directions in the Survey Office.

Relative to the site for a Signal Station and Light House: – After examination we find that there is no place so well adapted as Paratutai for the former. Although steep it is sufficiently accessible and can be made much easier; from the summit is an extensive view seaward in all directions, which could not be obtained below.

The flag-staff would be on the Apex 350 feet above the sea, here is 80 feet by 30. Immediately below this (but on Paratutai) there is a site for a dwelling, with about half an acre of ground having soil 3 or 4 feet deep.

The only difficulty is water, which must either be supplied by a tank, or from a stream which runs near the foot of Paratutai.

By the flag-staff, a light revolving or coloured, to be distinguished from native fires, would be a guide to the entrance at night, but cannot be available to lead vessels in.

But if a light was placed on the outer extreme of Poponga it would be always eclipsed by Paratutai, when a vessel was too far to the northward, and by keeping it just open, it is in reality the same mark as given for steering in by day.

In buoying off the channels of Manukau I think two large buoys are only necessary, because the marks, with the Orwell and mid bank forming such decided sea walls, are sufficient.

The two outer buoys should be large can buoys, and laid down with the best gear.

I have marked the position.

The spit off the South Head may have a smaller buoy. Those at the tail of the banks forming the three channels should be of the same description, whereas, the buoys for navigating the channels, need only be cask buoys.

For the Onehunga channel, to Onehunga 1l, and 2 perches are required.

To reach within Papakura heads, 9 are required.

To reach within Waiuku heads 3 buoys, and 3 perches.

The positions of all these will be seen from the chart.

In laying down these buoys (especially the outer) the person

in charge of the signal station should be practically acquainted with their position, and any one or more of a crew stationed at Paratutai might be in the same way made competent to pilot a vessel through any branch of the Manukau.

A vessel from twenty to thirty tons should be employed in laying down the outer buoys according to the weather, between Dec. and March.

In fine weather it would occupy but little time.

Total number of Buoys required.

Large Can Buoys

2

Middle-sized ditto

4

Onehunga main channel) and inner channel

Cask Buoys

11

Papakura channel

9

Waiuku channel

3

Total – 2 large, 4 middle-sized, and 23 small.

There are also required –

For Onehunga channel

2 perches.

For Waiuku

3 "

Total

5

High Water, Full and Change in Manukau.

H.

M.

At the Heads

10

00

Poponga

10

05

Waiuku Heads

10

30

" Portage

10

53

Papakura Heads

11

00

Onehunga

10

50

Summit of Paratutai

Lat.

Long.

37° 03' S.

174° 34' E.

Variation.

14E.

Rise and fall at Springs

13 1/4

feet.

" " " Neaps

6 to 7

do.

I hare the honour to be,
Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
BYRON DRURY,
Commander and Surveyor
To the Honourable
The Colonial Secretary,
&c. &c.

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR MANUKAU HARBOUR.

Manukau Heads are easily distinguished; the coast gradually rising from Kaipara to Manukau, where the hills on the North Shore rise to the height of 1280 feet.

The northern district is an extensive forest, whilst all the country facing seaward south of the harbour is peculiarly barren for 25 miles.

But the most remarkable objects first visible from the westward are three conical peaks near the North Head – one forming the island of Paratutai, which may be considered as the North Head, being connected at low water, and is 350 feet above the sea.

Again, the South Head presents a rounded barren face of brown soil, with table land extending southward.

The Bar, which is very narrow (a cable) is three miles from Paratutai; the least water at low water springs is 21 feet in the channel on the bar.

The soundings from seaward to the bar decrease very gradually to 12 fathoms, which will be on the outer edge, and from that depth it shoals suddenly, increasing again within to 17 fathoms.

The natural marks for leading into Manukau are very conspicuous.

A rock called the Nine Pin, 80 feet high, near the low water of the North Head, being brought in line with the right extreme of Paratutai. A third rounded point, Poponga (within the harbour) will then also have its right tangent just visible, by keeping this line N. 55 E., magnetic, the shoals to the north are avoided, and Poponga should not be shut in by Paratutai.

The channel is about one mile broad, decreasing to half a mile between Parutatai and the middle or south banks, where it is narrowest.

The same course leads between the Orwell and middle bank. Both being nearly dry at low water, are always visible by the breakers.

Pass a cable from the Nine Pin to avoid a sand spit; but when it bears north, steer for and keep as near to Paratutai as convenient.

The channel here is narrowest (half a mile). A spit extends from the South Head towards Paratutai, two-thirds of a mile.

After passing this, the channel is clear to Poponga, and gradually decreases from twenty fathoms. It is not advisable to anchor until rounding Poponga or Mako Point. But if necessary the Huia banks afford an anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms.

By keeping the Nine Pin open of Paratutai, the Huia banks are cleared. The channel between Poponga and the tail of the banks is two-thirds of a mile broad, and the anchorage is good as

convenient after rounding the point. With a leading wind, a vessel could proceed as far as Shag Point, five miles above, if the banks are visible; the channel being about half a mile broad, and the course along the coast, taking care not to get within the line of points.

Vessels going to Papakura or Waiuku should proceed to an anchorage off Kauri Point, in 8 to 10 fathoms. The course to this anchorage is keeping the south shore on board, one fourth of a mile from high water.

As the channel from those points is about to be buoyed, directions will be framed in accordance to their positions; at present the channels should be navigated when the tide shows the banks, or by having boats ahead.

The tides in the channels at springs average two and a half knots off Poponga, four knots off Paratutai, and outside from one to two knots.

On the coast the flood sets to the southward, the ebb to the northward. The tides within take the direction of the channels, and are seldom strong on the banks, although well covered, which is another guide for navigation.

For further information respecting the harbour channels – vide the Report on Manukau Harbour.

BYRON DRURY,
Commander and Surveyor.

POVERTY BAY TO EAST CAPE.

POVERTY BAY (TURANGA).

Is the first anchorage north of Hawke's Bay being eight leagues from Table Cape; the bay is 5 miles from head to head, and 4 miles in depth. The entrance will be known by the heads being the first white projections from the land north of Table Cape; the south (or Young Nick's) head is 520 feet high and has within it, anchorage off the Wero Wero River, but it is advisable to keep more than half a mile from it as within this the ground is very foul changing from 8 fathoms to 9 feet, the bottom, however, is not rock, but apparently composed of vast fragments of the pipeclay cliff which has from time to time slipped away. (A very common occurrence on this part of the coast, upon which the sea is rapidly advancing, and which is so liable to smart shocks of earthquakes.)

The North Head (Tua-hini) bears N. E. from Young Nick's Head, it also has foul rocky ground, extending to the S. E. for 2 miles, at this distance we shoaled suddenly from 16 to 8 fathoms.

On the north side of the bay is what appears an island (Tua Motu) but it is joined to the main at low water, off this

a reef extends 2 cables to the southward between this peninsula and Turanga-nui River, there are rocks half a mile from the shore, the outer ones of which are covered or awash at low water.

With the exception of the above, the bay is free from dangers, and a vessel can anchor according to circumstances, but she should not remain if there is an appearance of a breeze from the S. E., for it freshens suddenly and vessels have been lost by waiting too long. In all westerly winds, and in ordinary N. E. sea breezes there is shelter. The bottom is sand and the soundings decrease gradually from 12 fathoms across the entrance to 5 fathoms, half a mile from the beach.

The flood outside sets to the northward, ebb to the southward, and their influence extends ten miles from the shore. Within the bay the tide is scarcely perceptible. At Wero Wero the high water at full and change is 6h. 5m. and the rise and fall six feet.

There are three small rivers in this bay – the Turanga-nui. the Kopututea, and the Wero Wero. The former is celebrated for being the first spot where Cook landed in New Zealand, and from the untoward circumstances attending it, and their hopeless attempts to obtain provisions he named the bay Poverty.

The Turanga-nui has about a fathom at the entrance at low water, coasting schooners may cross the bar at high water, when the channel within is a cable broad. Half a mile above, the river branches off to the N. W: and N. N. E. (at the fork there is ten feet at high water) the former branch being the largest. This river terminates a sandy beach of 8 miles from the south head.

The Kopututea has about the same water at the bar as Turanganui, but is less easy to define, it is a much larger river than the latter, and is a fine sheet of water when the tide is in, it flows through one of the richest valleys in New Zealand, where about 30,000 acres of level land and excellent soil is very partially cultivated, it affords pasturage to a great extent being clothed with natural grass. The Church Mission Station is on the west bank 3 miles from the river's mouth.

The Wero Wero is only fit for boats, it is just within Young Nick's Head and runs for a mile parellel to the beach (stretching through the Kopututea plain, at high water a branch of it is connected near the mouth, with the Kopututea River.

ARIEL ROCKS.

Ten miles E. 1/2 N. from Tua-hini Point (North Head of Poverty Bay) are the Ariel Rocks, it is a very dangerous patch only breaking in heavy seas. At low water spring here are two fathoms on it, it extends north and south, and the dangerous portion is not half a mile in length, we found it very steep to, shoaling at one

east from twenty-three to eight and six fathoms when within half a cable of the shoalest portion. There are 31 fathoms between it and the shore, green mud, and 20 fathoms one mile north, from whence it shoals more gradually than from the other sides.

Its vicinity may be known, the bottom being coarse gravel, and stones within a radius of two miles. If the soundings exceed 35 fathoms you are outside.

The following bearings give the position of the Ariel: –

Cape Gable (a very conspicuous white cliff) N. 15° W. 12 miles.
Tua-hini, (North Head of Poverty Bay) S. 84° W. 10 miles.
False Gable (the nearest point of land) N. 73 ° W. miles.

The distance from the shore will render clearing marks available only in very clear wheather. Tua Motu (in Poverty Bay) is shut in when north of it, when it just opens like an island you are half a mile north of the rocks. Again the top of the White Gable is nearly on a level with the land behind it.

A vessel called the Martha struck on these rocks and injured her keel, about fifteen years ago. The Pandora visited them, and during three days could not distinguish them until close to their position and though the wind during the greater part of that time blew very fresh from the N. E., yet there was no break, but after a S. E. gale they were seen to break heavily from the shore.

POVERTY BAY TO TOLAGA BAY.

Cape Gable (Pari-nui-te-ra) is 4 miles N. N. E. of Poverty flay, between it and the latter the shore is rugged with sterile hills rising to 600 feet. Rocks extend a mile from the projecting points, having sandy bays within, also faced by rocks. Reefs extend two miles south from the Gable.

Cape Gable was so called by Cooke from its having a glaring triangular facing like a whitewashed gable-end of a house, this appearance is contrasted when within three miles of the land but from the eastward it is very prominent, there is a small islet one-third of a mile S. S. E. of it with a reef extending half a mile in the same direction, there are also detached rocks a mile north of the Gable, about three-quarters of a mile from the beach.

Between this and Tolaga, the rocks extend about 1/2 a mile from the shore at low water. The Motara rocks-above water-are 3 miles S. S. E. of Sporing's Island, ami a quarter of a mile from the point.

TOLAGA BAY.

Or more properly Uawa, is 10 miles north of Cape Gable, it is N. N. W. and S. S. E. from head to head. 1 1/3 mile across, and about the same distance in depth, in it there is anchorage in all westerly winds from north to south.

The North Head rises to 400 feet and the South to 890, both composed of the white marl so conspicuous along this coast. Sporing's Island (of the same nature) has only a fordable depth between it and the South Head, it is surrounded by rocks extending a cable off.

The North Head has an island off it (Motu Heka) surrounded by rocks, and outside again, N. E. from it, is a reef always breaking, its outer limit being 1 1/2 mile from the head, in the passage between this reef and Motu Heka there is 11 fathoms.

Tolaga Bay is clear of dangers, there are 10 fathoms between the Heads, shoaling everywhere gradually; there is one part, however, where an anchor will not hold well, the ground being shingle and rock, this small patch is one-third across from the South towards the North Head. It is better to anchor within this line.

On the approach of easterly winds vessels should leave in good time for the outer reef renders the beating out somewhat tedious.

Within the South Head is a cove where Cook watered, and beyond is to be seen the remarkable arch in the cliffs which he speaks of, the natives shewed us several initials cut out on the rock where the artificial well exists made by Cook's crew, there is, however, some difficulty in getting water in Tolaga during the dry season.

Here we obtained provisions, better and at a more reasonable rate from Europeans and Natives, than anywhere else on this coast.

At the head of the bay is the River Uawa, with a bar of 5 feet which is said to be constantly shifting, coasters have occasionally entered it, the principal branch has it rise to the northward.

TOLAGA BAY TO OPEN BAY.

Between Tolaga and the East Cape there is no good anchorage, although coasters do sometimes anchor in Tokomara and Open Bays, yet they can only be approached in fine weather, and scarcely deserve the name of bays.

Four miles north of Tolaga is Marau Point, a bluff projection, – off which there is a reef awash, rather more than a mile east of the point, this extends N. N. W. and S. S. E, a mile.

N. N. W. 2 miles from Marau Point is the island of Anaura, a

quarter of a mile from the main, with a boat passage between. It is sterile and precipituous, [?] of a mile in length, and forms the southern point of a bight called Waipari Bay, which is about a mile and a half broad with sandy shores, the north point, and indeed the whole of this bay is rocky.

From Anaura Island to Mawai is north 4 and a half miles, midway is a rocky islet, (Motu Repa) which has a narrow channel of 5 fathoms within it. Before reaching Mawai Point is a small cove, called by the whalers St. Patrick's Cove, which is well sheltered for boats, this cove takes its name from a curious pinnacle, which seen from seaward appears like a gigantic figure of a man with his arms folded.

Mawai Point (forming the south head of Tokomaru) is a sharp and barren projection surrounded by rocks; on the south side of Tokomaru the rocks are visible; the Hikutu Rocks in the middle of the bay have 14 fathoms all round them, and are visible only at low water. The heads are 4 miles apart N. by E. and S. by W. No vessels, but such coasters as know the channels among the rocks, should attempt this bay for it is a very open anchorage.

North of Tokomaru the coast is precipitous trending N. by W. for 3 1/2 miles (to Waipiro or Open Bay) and backed by a hill – Tawhiti – which rises to the hight of 1670 feet (the highest peak on the Coast.) East of this peak, and 1/2 a mile from the shore, is the Island Mowhiauru about thirty feet high encircled by rocks.

OPEN BAY (WAIPIRO).

Will be known by its being the opening to the north of Tawhiti Hill, it is 4 miles from north to south, and is little more than one mile deep. There is a considerable stream in the south western corner of the Bay, but the landing there is generally difficult: in the middle of the Bay, a 1/4 of a mile from the beach, is a reef, immediately north of the Pah. Off the north point (Matahau) there is a reef extending (parallel to the beach) a 1/4 of a mile, within which boats can effect a landing and from whence produce is shipped.

There is 9 fathoms in the middle of the Bay in a line with the heads, and a rocky patch, having 2 fathoms, is said to exist on the N. W. corner of it, but this we did not find, another rock is said to exist one mile N. E. of Matahau called Tokamonga.

The next danger is off Kaimouhu, a round head 670 feet high, these sunken rocks extend eastward for a mile, and about the same distance north and south; we found 4 fathoms close to, and 17 fathoms, 2 cables east of them. Again 3 miles north of this and 1 mile S. S. E. of Reporua Village, are detached sunken rocks a good mile from the beach, and foul ground a a mile outside,

with 4 fathoms, between these rocks and the shore, there is 8 fathoms, and only 10 fathoms 2 miles from the beach.

Point Wharariki (the south point of the Awanui) is 3 1/2 miles north of the Reporua Village, rocks extend half a mile all round it.

The coast (from 3 cables off) appears now to be clear of dangers to the East Cape Islet.

From Open Bay to the East Cape the coast is varied by white streaked cliffs, with sandy beaches intervening, the country is more or less cultivated.

Six miles south of the East Cape is the Waiapu stream, which is considerable at high water, the freshes come down with great violence so as to render it unsafe as an anchorage even for the smallest vessels. It takes it rise under Ikaurangi, traversing throug the various ranges and draining a considerable extent of country.

The land about the East Cape presents the most mountainous feature of the Northern Island, the summits of five distinct ranges may be seen, backed by the snow-capped Ikaurangi, a most conspicuous mountain rising to the height of 5535 feet, 28 miles S. E. by S. of the Cape.

The East Cape is remarkably white (clayish sand) and this barren feature reaches to Hick's Bay in steep cliffs to the westward, and in broken cliffs with valleys intervening to the southward.

The East Cape Islet (half a mile in circuit) is a type of the Cape, having but a small proportion of stunted verdure, it is steep and almost inaccessible and bounded by rocks, having a ledge extending from its northern extreme N. N. E. half a mile.

When the Western points trending to Hick's Bay are well open the Islet, anchorage will be found in 16 fathoms within 2 miles of it, and when the weather admits a vessel might ride out the tide to great advantage.

The water deepens again to the southward until within a mile of the Islet, when it will be found to shoal suddenly to 12 and 9 fathoms, which latter depth will be carried to a cable from the Islet.

There is a channel nearly a mile wide between the East Cape and the Islet, but as the winds here are liable to die away suddenly, leaving the vessel at the mercy of the tides and swell, it cannot be recommended. Flood tides set to the northward and from East Cape to the westward.

Prom the preceeding remarks it will be seen that the East Coast from Young Nick's Head (in Poverty Bay) to the East Cape, – about 70 miles, – has only two roadsteads for ships of burden, viz: –

Turanga and Tolaga – that the coast has many dangers within a league of it, that in fine weather and westerly winds, there are a few places where cargo can be shipped by vessels anchoring cautiously off the coast.

There are few places, (if any) where even coasting schooners would be safe in a gale, for the rivers are only accessible in fine weather, at the proper time of tide.

Besides avoiding the Ariel Reef, a stranger should not approach the coast nearer than a league, and I know no coast where the position of a vessel maybe better determined by night as well as by day. The soundings will he found to decrease from about 40 fathoms two leagues off, to 24 one league off, green mud over 24, and fine sand within 24 fathoms; great advantage can be taken by standing off or in according to tide.

BAY OF PLENTY.

HICK'S BAY.

Is nearly 2 miles deep by 1 1/2 broad, the bottom is greenish mud, good holding ground, shoaling very suddenly towards the sandy beach at the head. The north and south shores are very steep generally faced by perpendicular cliffs and off-lying rocks (the latter are within half a cable of the high water).

The north point (Mata Kawa) is a long low rocky tongue of indurated sand stone with a crust of scoria, the rocks off it are all visible having twenty-five fathoms within a cable of the extreme.

The south point (Kohau) is almost inaccessible; it forms the division between the long bay of Panaruku and Hick's Bay.

From all westerly winds, north to south, Hick's Bay affords secure anchorage. In north winds – which are not uncommon – it is sheltered, but vessels must get well within Matakawa Point.

N. E. gales, which generally spring from the east ward and gradually freshen, give sufficient warning to weigh, no vessel should lie here during N. E. or S. E. winds.

From the S. E wind, which is much more constant here than in the Hauraki Gulf, vessels may be sheltered by standing down to the white cliffs 5 miles to the eastward of Hick's Bay, anchoring in 9 to 12 fathoms 1 1/2 miles west of the Awatere River and within a mile of the beach.

Fresh water can be obtained in Hick's Bay, from a gully within half a mile of Mata Kawa point. There is however some difficulty in landing if the wind blows fresh outside, for then there is a swell rolling into the bay; there is also a considerable stream, having fresh water 5 to 6 feet deep, in the N. W. corner. Supplies may be obtained from a native village (Wharekahika) in the S. W. nook of the bay.

The natives catch hapuku off Kohau Point, just within which there is a very small and deep sound [where they retreat to, and which forms their best lauding place, excepting the present whal-

ing station, one mile within Matakawa Point, where the isolated rocks form a boat harbour.

HICK'S BAY TO CAPE RUNAWAY.

From Hick's Bay to Cape Runaway is west eighteen miles, a desolate country. There are three points, including Cape Runaway, and of the same formation, and therefore readily mistaken. In sloping from the range facing seaward, they rise to a small peak before they again taper in the same direction.

Point Midway and Point Lottin have this feature. There is a small sandy bight east of the former and west of the latter, but neither are anchorages.

The depth of water is very considerable, and should the wind fail there is no anchorage on this part of the coast, and constant swell setting towards it. Soundings in 20 fathoms two cables, and 40 to 50 within a mile.

The hills bordering the coast (rising to 800 feet) are clothed with thick bush one-third down from their summits, and their steepness will render any cultivation very difficult.

Point Lottin is 8 miles west of Hick's Bay, and making the land from the northward, this point of the coast may be readily known by a peak to the southward, seen much higher than the general range, and the Land being lower west of Lottin towards Hick's Bay.

From Cape Runaway (Tikirau) to the westward up the Bay of Plenty, the coast is very different, intersected by rivers, and having large blocks of land under cultivation.

The cape has some detached rocks a quarter of a mile north of it, but with 20 fathoms close to, and a passage with 6 fathoms between them and it.

It is well however to avoid it, as the tides are strong. E. S. E. 1/2 a mile from these rocks is another, awash at low water.

WANGAPARAWA BAY.

Having Cape Runaway for its north point, has an anchorage in S. E. winds off the present whaling station, 2 miles S. S. E. of the Cape. Vessels of any burden should not approach the shore nearer than 12 fathoms, anchoring about a mile west of the conical hill over the station; south of which a quarter of a mile, is a fordable river, Wangaparawa, winding through a vast plain towards Hick's Bay. Up to this stream the coast is rocky and difficult to effect a landing, Beyond the river is a shingle beach,

1 1/2 mile long, and then about the same extent of white cliffs, 85 feet high, having terraces of fine table land on the summit.

There is a ledge of rocks extending nearly 1/2 a mile off the south end of these cliffs, and then a sandy bay, extending to the long low part of Orete, which is five and a half miles S. W. 1/2 S. of Cape Runaway.

Upon the slightest appearance of a westerly wind, a vessel should not remain at anchor off the whaling station, and although well sheltered from a N. E. wind, it would be dangerous to ride it out, for these winds always shift to the northward and westward, and would bring in such a sea as to render it very difficult to get out.

The anchorage under Orete Point, about half a mile within it, affords excellent shelter in S. W. and westerly winds. Bringing the outer extreme of the rocks off it to bear W. and N. and anchoring in from 10 to 7 fathoms fine sand.

The anchorage in Wanpaparawa is open to another objection: between the changes from S. E. to Westerly winds, there is frequently a calm, the westerly wind being preceded by a swell, and coming in flaws. The Pandora was thus placed in a critical position on two occasions.

FROM ORETE, WESTWARD, ROUND THE BAY OF PLENTY.

Orete to Waikana is S. W. 9 and 1/2 miles, for the most part a rocky coast and shingle beach, immediately west of Orete there are sunken rocks, 3/4 of a mile from the shore, and the ground is everywhere foul within half a mile of the beach. Within the first 5 miles are the villages of Orete, Otawhao, Rau-ko-kore, and its river of the same name.

From Kotiki Point to Waikana the coast is steep and rugged, with 35 fathoms 5 miles off; but there is not above half that depth at the same distance after passing Waikana. From Waikana, the coast trends S. S W. It is 4 miles to Te Kaha Point, and midway there is a reef just awash, half a mile from the shore, to keep clear of which, steer outside the line of points.

Te Kaha Point has off-lying rocks for half a mile, from thence to Opokohino it is 5 miles; between, is the small peninsula of Motunui, where coasters haul into 5 fathoms, and ride out N. E. winds. From Motunui to Opokohino is a shingle beach of 2 miles, where the Aparapara and Omaio rivers disembogue. At the latter there is a large native village. The peak of Opokohino Point is 596 feet high.

Three miles westward is Koronohino Point (240 feet), and round it is the large village of Tokata, being less than a mile N. of the Maraenui River. The Maraenui is a small, bar

river, expanding during freshes to half a mile in breadth, but it if in dry weather fordable half a mile from the mouth. The bar is about 30 feet broad, and is close to the shore. It is a tolerable boat harbour, having 8 feet, water within.

Six miles and a half from Maraenui is Pehetaire Point (800 feet high), and east of it one mile is the large double fenced Pa of Tunapahoa. The ground here shelves very gradually, having eighteen fathoms (mud) five miles from the beach.

The coast now takes a more westerly direction, the course from Pehetuire Point to Opotiki being S. W. 1/2 W. ten and a half miles, and Opotiki is in the bight of the Bay of Plenty.

The hills here are considerably lower, and fall back. The Porere and Waihau are inconsiderable streams, running through swampy land, parallel to the coast, which is now faced with sand hills.

Opape Point, three miles from Pehetaire, has rocks extending one third of a mile off and around it.

The Opotiki river divides into two branches about half a mile within the points. The east branch is the Opotiki proper; the west the Wai-o-eka. Both run nearly parallel to the south, about two miles apart, towards a wooded range of hills five miles from the coast. Their course is through a fine plain partially cultivated. The principal Pa (on the Opotiki branch) is named the Kowai; it is a mile from the mouth, and small vessels lie here at low water. Above this it is probably only navigable for boats.

The Wai-o-eka, from its junction with the branch, is full of snags up to the Church Mission Station of Tehuki-taia (three miles from the mouth), above which are rapids.

The entrance to the Opotiki is not more than a cable across. Both heads are sand, with no natural mark to lead in. The bar changes with the freshes, and N. E. gales affect it. The depth therefore is also affected, but the river is navigable for the ordinary coasters.

Ohiwa river is six miles to the westward of Opotiki; before reaching it the Wai-o-tahi has to be crossed. This small river has a light yellow cliff on its eastern entrance.

The Ohiwa river is much broader and more extensive than the Opotiki, being half a mile across at the mouth at high water. It appears however surrounded by shoal water, and the bar is a mile seaward within. It branches off into three arms, extending through extensive mud flats.

Half a mile east of Ohiwa is a wooded cliff about 500 feet high, which, as it stands alone on the coast, would be a guide to this river.

A sandy beach of seven miles extends from Ohiwa to Kohi Point, which forms the eastern head of the Whakatane river. The channel into this river is between large boulders just covered at high water. These rocks are on either side of the bar, which at

low water has only two feet on it, and nine or ten at high water springs. The Whakatane is a favourite port for the coasting trade. Schooners reach as far as Pupuarue, the Mission station, from which the river bends to the S. E. and flowing through the ranges at the back takes the name of Orewera.

Kohi Point rises to 637 feet, and has been covered with several Pas, the ridges and ditches having a curious appearance. Between it and Motu Hora there is fourteen fathoms fine sand.

From Whakatane to Matata is thirteen miles: having an extensive swamp at the back of the sand hills, and a plain of fern and flax extends to the foot of Mount Edgecombe, which noble mountain rises abruptly from the flat to the height of 2375 feet. The native name is Putauaki. On the summit is said to be a lake of green water, probably occupying an old crater.

The river Orini connects the Whakatane and Matata, the stream always running to the former; it flows parallel to the beach about one and a half miles distant, and is navigable for boats the whole length.

The Awa-o-te-atua rises near the west foot of Mount Edgecombe, and passing through the plain, becomes the Matata at its junction with the Orini, two and a half miles west of which is the village of Otamarora a mile from the entrance.

From the Whakatane entrance (Kohi Point) the island of Motu Hora bears N. W. by N. five miles, west of which about four miles are the Ru Rima Rocks, having from ten to fifteen fathoms between them and the coast. (Motu Hora and the Ru Rima Rocks will be treated of hereafter.)

At Matata, coasting vessels are built. From it a range of hills runs south (forming the western boundary of the plain from Whakatane), and cut off from the foot of Mount Edgecombe by the valley through which the Awa-o-ao-atua runs. Coastwise the cliffs are white, rising to 500 feet.

The Wai-teha-nui W. N. W., six miles distant from Matata, is fordable at low water. On it is the beautifully situated Pa of Otamaropa.

Before reaching Maketu, the Waihi river runs in many branches through an extensive flat.

Town Point (Okure) forming the S. E. head of the Kaituna river is sixteen miles N. W. by W. half W. of Matata. From this cliff point (100 feet high) towards Motiti, the ground is very foul, but I am not aware that there are any rocks – further than a mile off – which would bring a ship up.

The large Pa of Maketu is on the S. E. side of the Kaituna river, just within the bar, which at low water has three feet on it. Within, the river expands considerably, and is navigable for boats eight miles. It conveys the surplus water from Roto Roa lakes to the sea. At Maketu resides the Rev. Mr. Chapman, a gentleman whose name is so well known to travellers, from the unbounded hospitality he has extended to those visitors who pass

his happily conducted mission station on their road to the lakes.

The beach from Maketu to Maunganui has already been described, as was also Tauranga Harbour.

The Katikati river is N. W. by W. thirteen miles from Maunganui, a sandy beach the whole way. Two miles east of its north head (Te Ho), the water shoals suddenly from six to three and a half fathoms. Breakers extend a mile from the entrance, which appears to be choked up with banks, having scarcely at low water a safe boat channel between them. The Katikati is connected with Tauranga, thus forming a long sandy island between Te Ho and Maunganui. At low water the channel connecting Tauranga and Katikati is nearly dry.

The passage between Karewha Island and the sandy beach is three miles broad, having from ten to thirteen fathoms sand and shells.

ISLANDS AND DETACHED ROCKS.

The Islands comprehended in this survey include the Mayor or Tuhoua, Karewha, Motiti, Motu Nau or Plate Island, Motu Hura or Whale Island, and Whakari or White Island.

The detached rocks are the Ru Rima near Motu Hora, the Astralobe near Motiti, and the Schooner Rocks.

The Mayor or Tuhoua is an island seven miles in circumference, two and a quarter miles N. W. and S. E. and one and a half miles in breadth, the northern peak being 1100 feet high. The centre of the island is an extinct crater open to the S. E.. with stagnant water at the bottom; the western face is so covered with blocks of obsidian as to give it a remarkably dazzling appearance when reflecting the sun's rays.

There is a Pa on the S. E. extreme, strongly defended by a deep cut or pass, partially artificial, through which the invaders must approach, for the other sides have steep cliffs down to the water. There is a bay immediately west of the Pa, where anchorage may be had – sandy bottom: but as it is open to west and S. W. winds, it would seldom be available beyond a few hours during which time a small quantity of provisions and water might be obtained. On the east side of the Pa is a small cove, where coasters ride in northerly winds.

One mile east of the Pa Point is a rock under water, which breaks in a moderate swell; it is half a mile from the nearest or S. E. point of the island. Off the North Point is a small sugar loaf islet. The rest of the island appears perfectly clear of danger, with forty fathoms one mile from its shores.

Karewha island has been treated of in the directions for entering Tauranga Harbour.

Motiti or Flat Island is three and a quarter miles from north to south and one and a half from west to east. Its greatest elevation (190 feet) is at the north end. The rest of the island is not more than 100 feet above the level of the sea.

The north point is S. E. by S. nineteen miles from the Mayor, and eleven and a half miles E. N. E. from Tauranga Harbour, between which and Motiti there is not more than twenty-two fathoms.

The holding ground off the island is very indifferent, and the east and S. E. sides should not be approached within two miles. There are two rocks awash S. E. by E. one and a half miles from the south point.

The "Pandora" anchored off the N. W. point of the island, half a mile from the shore, in fourteen fathoms, rocky ground.

Schooner Rocks (so called from their likeness to such a vessel at a distance) are four and a half miles E. by N. half N. of Motiti; they are not a cable in circumference, and sixty-two feet high and bold. There is forty fathoms between them and Motiti.

Astrolabe Rock is isolated, and uncovered at low water springs. The whole extent of the danger is not more than two cables, extending E. N. E. and W. S. W. It would break almost always, but as it is covered at high water, in very fine westerly weather it might not show. Our boats approached it. and found twenty fathoms all round it fifty yards distant. The ship passed two cables from it, sounding in thirty to forty fathoms, green mud and broken shells.

At the rock the flat summit of Maunganui is exactly on a level with the ridge of the table land behind it. If you are inside the rock Maunganui will appear above the distant land, and if outside it will appear below. The compass bearing of Maunganui from the rock is S. 51 deg. W. the centre of Mayor Island, N. 45 deg. W. and the right of Motiti S. 1/2 W. four miles from the north point. This neighbourhood should be avoided at night, as there is no land near enough to guide, Motiti being too low.

This rock is in such a very different position from that assigned to the Astrolabe Reef, that were we not convinced that no rocks exist in the old position of the Astrolabe, I should have hesitated to give it this name

I may here repeat that there is no such island as that represented in the old charts and maps as High Island. It evidently has crept in since Cook's time, by some navigators taking Maunganui Bluff for an island. At a distance it certainly appears so, as it rises to 860 feet from a sandy level.

Motu Nau (or Plate Island, so called from its hollow in the centre,) is S. E. half S. three and a half miles from the Schooner Rocks, and seven and a half miles E. by N. from the south extremity of Motiti. It is less than half a mile in extent (the highest part is 166 feet), and has deep water all round it, except off the South end, where there is a ledge just above water. Between this and Schooner Rocks there is twenty to thirty fathoms.

Ru Rima Rocks are (at the eastern extreme) four miles west of Motu Hora, and like that island, retain volcanic heat.

They are one mile east and west, and half a mile north d south. The highest rock above water is 120 feet, and about three hundred yards in circumference.

The detached portions of these rocks extend to within three miles of the beach, and as they are covered, render it necessary to be cautious. The best plan is to keep the coast on board, which shelves gradually, the depth being eleven fathoms in the deepest part of the channel.

The outer rocks of Rua Rima are also awash. They are six miles from the shore, and have eighteen fathoms half a mile to the northward.

Motu Hora, or Whale Island, is 1167 feet high, one and a half miles east and west, and half a mile in length. It appears bell shaped from seaward, but on approaching there is a second peak on the west end.

The "Pandora" anchored under a shingle spit off the S. W. end of the island. I have no reason to doubt that with good ground tackle, a vessel might ride out any gale here. But the island being small, the back swell in a N. E. gale would be considerable. At all events, it is the only spot affording any shelter on this portion of the bay in case a vessel should be caught in a N. E. wind, and not able to hold her position.

There are no dangers around this island, the depth between it and the shore is twenty fathoms, at the anchorage is six fathoms, but small vessels may get close in, under the shingle beach.

Abreast of the anchorage is a boiling spring. Goats are numerous, and there is some cultivated ground, but no one residing. Fresh water is scarce.

White Island, or Whakari, is about three miles in circumference, and 860 feet high. The base of the crater is one and a half miles in circuit, and level with the sea. In the centre is a boiling spring about 100 yards in circumference, sending volumes of steam full 2000 feet high in calm weather. Around the edges of the crater are numberless smaller geysers, sounding like so many high pressure engines, and emitting steam with such velocity, that a stone thrown into the vortex would immediately be shot in the air.

Here and there are lakes of sulphureous water, dormant; but the whole island is so heated as to make it difficult to walk. From the edges of the crater the scene below is only to be compared to a well dressed meadow of gorgeous green, with meandering streams feeding the boiling cauldron; but on approaching, we find this green to be the purest crystallized sulphur. No animal or insect breathes on this island, scarcely a limpet on the stones, and 200 fathoms will hardly reach the bottom within half a mile of its shores.

This is the eastern limit of that extensive belt of agitation extending from Mount Egmont, through Tongoariro, the Taupo and Roto Mahana lakes, to the island of Motu Hora and the adjacent rocks (Ru Rima) north of which earthquakes are rarely felt.

N. W. half W. three miles from White Island, are three rocky islets, 60 to 100 feet above water, the "Pandora" passed between them and the island, without striking bottom with 60 fathoms. Off the S. E. extreme is another rugged islet, about thirty feet, half a mile from the high water. There is not the slightest appearance of any off laying danger.

TIDES, BAY OF PLENTY AND EAST COAST.

The average rise and fall in the Bay of Plenty is seven feet. The flood runs to the westward taking the direction of the Coast.

Within four miles of the Coast spring tides run two knots, neap one knot; but off the points of Hick's Bay, Cape Runaway, &c., they will be found to be more rapid, but either tide striking against the point has a tendency to set off the rocks.

Off White Island there is scarce any tide.

South of the East Cape the flood sets to the northward, ebb to the southward, within the Bays of Turanga and Tolaga the tide is not felt. The influence of the tides extend fifteen miles off this Coast, the water being so much shoaler than in the Bay of Plenty.

WINDS AND WEATHER.

The winds on either side of the East Cape are frequently very different although it may be blowing very fresh. The strong westerly sea breezes, which blow through the Bay of Plenty are suddenly lost when passing south of the East Cape Islet, the distinct line of breeze is curiously depicted on the water. A vessel may be becalmed here for hours in sight of very strong breezes.

Proceeding south it will be found that the ordinary sea breeze is N. E, while the N. E. gales are far less common than in the Hauraki Gulf, whereas the S. E. gales so uncommon at Auckland, are frequent, and blow very hard, on both sides of the East Cape, lasting several days.

The south winds come on very suddenly on both sides of the East Cape, frequently accompanied by rain.

The north winds with gloomy weather and rain, frequently precede the south winds, and the changes from north to south is very sudden.

These remarks although generally applicable, are from our own observations between October and February.

The N. E. gales are most frequent in March and April, the S. E. during the winter, accompanied by showers and lightning to the S. E.

In the Bay of Plenty the barometer rises to the W. S. W. winds, and the same effect is produced by the N. E. sea breezes south of the East Cape, it falls to northerly winds, and rise when about to shift to the southward.

Before N. E. gales the barometer is generally very high, they come on very gradually, with a leaden sky, rain follows, and they invariably shift to the N. and N. W., veering to W. S. W. it frequently remains at that quarter for some days, they seldom last less than forty-eight hours. It will be found that three o'clock in the afternoon is not an uncommon time for change during any gale in these seas.

The following are the Latitudes and Longitudes of some of the principal points and islands with the time of high water at full and change

Kate Kate River, (North Head) lat. 37° 27', S. long. 176° 2' East .....H. W. 7 44
Mayor Island, (Highest Peak) lat. 37° 16', S. long. 176° 18', 3/4 E.....H. W. " "
Motu Hora, (Highest Peak) lat. 37° 50' S., long. 177° 10', E......H. W. " "
Opotiki River, (Mission House) lat. 37° 58' 5., long. 177° 20', E.....H. W. " 00
Tekaha Point, (out extreme) lat. 37° 42 3/4' S., long. 177° 43' E......H. W. 6 30
Hick's Bay, (Matakawa Point) lat. 37° 32' S., long. 178° 22 3/4 E.....H. W. 9 00
East Cape Islet, (summit of) lat. 37° 39' S., long. 178° 37 3/4' E......H. W. 8 55
Tolaga Bay, (Motu Heka) lat. 38° 22 1/2' S., long. 178° 28 1/2' E.....H. W. " "
Poverty Bay, (Halbert's House, Wero Wero) lat. 38° 42' S., long. 177° 58 1/2' E.....H. W. 6 06

N. B. – All bearings in this are by compass.

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR KAWHIA HARBOUR.

On coming from seaward the harbour of Kawhia may be known by the distant hills rising in notched peaks (called Pironghia), and also by the high wooded headland to the northward (Woody Head).

Steer for Pironghia peaks until Albatross point shuts in the land to the southward. You will then have passed Gannet Island (which is small, and about 70 feet high, and lies N. W. 1/4 W. 11 miles from Albatross Point, and W. by N. 3/4 N. 13 miles from Kawhia South Head) and you will see the break of the land forming the entrance to Kawhia harbour.

The South Head is cliffy, having a very conspicuous yellow patch on it; and the North Head is a low sandy point (the gradual declension of the sand hills, which stretch between this harbour and Aotea).

Get the South Head to bear E. S. E., and steer for it, until the leading mark inside becomes visible; it is an arched cliff, reddish,

and dotted with trees. Keep this a little open of the outer extreme of the South Head, bearing E. by S. 3/4 S, and cross the bar, which is one mile from the Heads, gradually hauling towards the North Head, as the channel over the bay is close to the south spit, and after having run about three cables, you will be in 3 1/4 fathoms, when you may steer for between the Heads, and on that line E. by S. until the rocks off the inner and outer South Heads are in line, when steer up the left channel, which is two cables broad, having from 4 to 6 fathoms in it towards Leathart's Point (which is miles within the North Head), and after rounding it, a vessel may anchor off the Native Church, about a cable's length from shore, in from 4 to 5 fathoms low water (14 feet in the channel over the south bar at low water Spring tides).

The marks for crossing the North Channel over the bar are – Mr. Joseph's house on Ohaua Point, just open of the rock off the South Head, bearing S. 48 E.; water on bar at low water Springs 11 feet. There is more shoal water crossing this bar than the southern one, and, with a westerly wind, a heavy beam sea. Steer on the leading marks until into deep water, 5 fathoms, and then for the entrance, when the same directions are good which were previously given.

The tide sets out over the South Spit with a slight inclination, and the flood the contrary.

Strength of tide between the Heads from four to six knots.

High water, full and change, on bar, 9h. 30m.

Rise at Springs, 12 feet.

Latitude South Head, 38d. 4m. 6s. S.

Longitude ditto ditto, 174d. 46m. 30s. E.

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR WHAINGAROA HARBOUR.

Woody Head, or Karehoe Peak, is a high conical hill, 2000 feet high, and an excellent mark for Whaingoroa. The harbour is to the northward of the hill, in a bight formed by it and the land, running towards Waikato; when the bight is made, the entrance to the harbour may be known by a reddish cliff hill over the South Head. The bar lies off the entrance about one mile, formed by two spits, which dry out nearly half way at low water. The entrance is two cables broad.

The North Point is sandy and low, with high woody land behind. The south point is also low, but not sandy, sloping down from the reddish cliff hill. The marks for crossing the bar are the extreme of North Point, in line with a point on the south side of the harbour, gradually sloping from a low hill about three miles inside, bearing N. E. by E. 3/4 E. Water on the bar at low water

spring tides, 9 feet, and the channel straight in from the bar to the Heads, carrying in 2, 3, 4, and 5 fathoms between them. When inside, by keeping mid channel, you may sail up to where the river branches off into the Waitetaima river, Kokaka, and Waikuku creeks.

Good anchorage inside the points leading into Kokaka river – so also there is in every part of it.

Small vessels generally anchor off the first limestone rocks under the North Head, in 9 fathoms. Off Hou Village there are three other creeks, besides those mentioned, flowing into the main branch.

Strength of tide between the heads from 4 to 6 knots.

Time of high water on the bar at full and change, 9h. 30m.

Rise, 12 feet.

Latitude South Entrance Point, 37d. 47m. 31s. S.

Longitude, 174d. 51m. 1s. E.

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR AOTEA HARBOUR.

On approaching the harbour of Aotea, the entrance looks like a great gap, with sand hills on either side; the south point (Kupua te mauna) is 4 miles north of Kawhia, and its summit is darker than the rest of the hills on the coast.

The North Head is a low point formed by a gradual slope of the sand hills.

The high water marks between the heads are three quarters of a mile distant.

From the North Head a long sand spit, dry at half tide, runs to the southward for one mile; and half a mile to the southward of the South Head, the south spit runs off, and outlies the north spit, and dries out at low water about one-third of a mile.

In steering for the bar, two small triangular patches of yellow cliff, to the right of the south point, will be seen; the right of these patches in line with where the summit of the dark hill meets the sand hill (or where they appear to join) bearing E. 3/4 N.

After crossing the bar, in 11 feet low water, haul in along the spit (E. S. E.) until abreast of the tail of the north spit (always showing); you will then gradually have to haul up, keeping the north spit on board to the North Head – still keep the north shore on board (as there is an extensive sand bank on the south shore), until abreast of the abrupt termination of the sand on the north shore; when steer for the red cliffs on the south shore, and anchor off them in from 4 to 6 fathoms.

The depth of channel from the heads to this point is from 2 to

4 fathoms, which continues to the eastward three quarters of a mile towards the White Bluffs, when it turns to the northward and divides into three small channels; the westernmost one leading to the Mission Station, above which it is dry; the middle, towards the Pakaka Creek, dry at low water; and the east one to Makamaka Creek also dry at low water.

Latitude of South Head, 37d. 59m. 52s. S.

Longitude ditto, 174d. 47m. 16s. E.

High water on Bar, at full and change, 9h. 30m.

Rise and fall, 12 feet.

The tide runs between the Heads from 3 to 5 knots.

There are two rocks lying to the northward of Aotea, about a mile off shore. The north one is awash at low water, and is nearly always breaking; the south one, about a quarter of a mile from the other, breaks only in heavy weather-one cable inside is four fathoms.

The bearings of the first are – from North Head W. 3/4 N., and and from the Bar N. W. 3/4 N. 1 1/2 miles; the one which seldom breaks is 1/4 of a mile south of the north one.

All bearings magnetic.

1 In the old and existing charts, and maps, there is an island laid down termed Highland Flat, it does not exist, but there is no doubt this is Monganui which would have the appearance of a high flat island from seaward. Captain Cook did not make this mistake, it must have been the error of a subsequent voyager.

2 I have been disappointed in obtaining the information regarding vessel which have gone into Manukau under these circumstances.

[Pages 58-95]

PELORUS ESTUARY.

(Cook's Straits).

This extensive estuary, with its numerous arms, is situated between Queen Charlotte's Sound and Blind Bay. and is included between latitude 40° 52' S. and latitude 41° 15' S., and between longitude 173° 45'E. and longitude 174° 8' E.

The coast line is no less than 250 miles. The depth of water varies from 45 to 16 fathoms, until gradually decreasing in the main branch towards the head, where it receives two rivers, forming banks at the head of that arm; but with this exception, and one sunken rock near the entrance, there is no obstruction to navigation, and having this anomaly, that the nearer you approach the points the deeper the water.

With the exception of the head of the main branch, the general character of the country is mountainous, rising with almost perpendicular acclivity to the height of from 2000 to 3000 feet, and clothed with dense forest. The intervening bays receiving the mountain streams are equally impenetrable, as the sides of the ravines are steep and rugged. With the exception of the site of an old settlement in one of the arms, there are few acres in any one spot that could be brought under cultivation, and in proof of this, the natives seem never to have had any settlement but the one mentioned, and it is deserted, they told us, because the ground is cursed. However, the soil every where accords with the luxuriant mountain vegetation, being generally of the richest loam, and of considerable depth.

The geological feature of all the points and banks of the river is soft clay slate, with frequent veins of quartz an inch thick. The whole country abounds in it, blocks being found on the hills, and the beach is strewed with quartz pebbles.

The following is the order in which the bays and anchorages of this estuary follow, beginning at the East Head or Point Entry, –

After passing Guard's Bay, which has rocks above water stretching half way across to the East Head, but with 20 fathoms between the extreme rock and the head.

The first bay is Ketu, one mile within. At the head of this bay there is Snug Cove, having 10 fathoms, but across the entrance of it 30 fathoms. Kopaua, or Richmond's Bay, is immediately beyond, forming a bight of one and a half miles. Here again the anchorage is at the head in 14 fathoms, the hills rising 1800 feet.

There is another sheltered bay before reaching Takaka point, which is immediately opposite Chetwode Island, the channel being a mile in breadth, 40 fathoms deep. Here the main branch of the Pelorus bends to the eastward, while another considerable arm, the Tawhiti-nui reach, stretches nine miles S. W. contain-

ing islands, and having a bay within a mile of Croixilles harbour.

Having rounded Takaka point, the course leading to the Hoiere changes from S. W. to S. S. E. for three miles, when a bare point, Tewero, is rounded, and the course again is S. W. for seven miles, then south seven miles to the upper anchorage, when the channel winds through banks in a westerly direction four miles, to the mouths of the Hoiere and Kaituna. Opposite Tawera, and two miles east of Kaka point, is the bay of Kauauroa, a good anchorage, round the south point of which we come to Whakamawahi, an extensive arm of the Pelorus, having three branches, the Hikuraki, which is separated from Guard's Bay, at its head, by a narrow neck only 100 feet broad, and about the same height. The middle Mamiaro having land remarkably bare for the Pelorus. The third Karepo runs south for five miles. On its east shore is the before mentioned deserted village of Kopai, having excellent anchorage, and the only part of these sounds having a tract of land adapted to cultivation – say 200 to 300 acres.

Passing this arm, the next reach, for seven miles, is Poupoure, having bays on either side. The Pokohino, on the east, the Tamuakaiwawi, the Piaukahe,, and the Opouri on the west. The west bays having the best anchorage. The channel of this reach has 27 fathoms, mud.

The next reach, Pinohikapu, is less indented. The head of this reach was the anchorage of H. M. Sloops Fantome and Pandora, which, with the exception of the Government Brig, the Tory, and H. M. S. Pelorus, I believe are the only vessels of any size that have yet navigated the estuary.

At this anchorage, ready communication can be had with the natives. Their cultivations are now visible, and small fishing stations seen on the banks, and it is about five miles below the villages. East of this anchorage is the long arm of Toreamonuoi Kipuru, extending twelve miles E. by N., having a depth of not more than fourteen fathoms, gradually decreasing towards the head. It is an average breadth of three quarters of a mile.

The Mahau Sound is three miles in length, divided from the last by a narrow ridge, Putahinu, and at its head there is a level plain, a mile long, and one and a half miles in breadth, extending to the Torea-mounu arm.

Ohingoroa Bay and Moi-Tapu have cultivated lands one mile S. S. W. of the anchorage. The Mahakipawa arm is very shoal, the head of it is about an hour's walk from Anakiwa bay in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Mahakipawa is rather a rather a large native settlement, and from whence we got most of our supplies. Two small vessels trade between it and Nelson; wheat and potatoes are their principal produce.

Near the east head of the Mahakipawa, the rivers Hoiere and Kaituna meet, forming banks, and leaving channels only navigable for small boats. To Parapara on the Hoiere from the above point (through a winding channel only navigable at or near high water) is a distance of three miles.

Here I give Lieut. Jones' account of the Hoieri valley, as he accomplished the journey to Nelson with Dr. Jolliff, returning by Croixilles Harbour. And Mr. Blackney's journal supplies details of the Kaituna Pass.

"The track from the Pelorus to Nelson is a portion of that cut by Mr. Barnicott, a Government Surveyor, some few years since, with a view of establishing a shorter means of communication with the Wairau plains than the route at present employed. From about a mile above the native settlement of Parapara, a cross track leads into the Surveyor's road, which winds along the right bank of the Hoiere river about nine miles, until the juncture of the little river Rai, at which point the Hoiere is forded, and the track continues along its left bank as far as the foot of the Maunga Tapu, a distance of about eighteen miles in a direct line. Two small streams, the Herenga and Tui-tine, which also effect a junction with the Pelorus, are crossed after leaving the river Rai.

"The valley through which the Hoiere winds varies in width from one to three miles. The soil appears good, and well adapted for agricultural purposes. Portions of it are heavily timbered, and very fine spars could be procured with but little difficulty. The patches of wheat, potatoes, and maize in the hands of the natives, which we passed through, although not extensive, appeared in an exceedingly flourishing condition, the wheat particularly, the ears being remarkable large and heavy.

"The ascent of Maunga Tapu is steep and difficult, a series of smaller ridges, covered with dense forest, rendering the track intricate and very fatiguing. Its summit is 3500 feet above the level of the sea, and from it a beautiful view of the windings of the Hoiere may be obtained. Parallel ranges of lofty and densely wooded hills, succeeding each other as far as the eye can reach, the bare peaks of the 'Saddle Back' on the left, 4000 feet in height, and the 4 Sugar Loaf, also 4000 feet, on the right, being the most conspicuous objects.

"The descent of Maunga Tapu is equally tedious and difficult. After leaving the immediate neighbourhood of the summit, high fern succeeds the forest, the track winding round the intervening ridges, in many places so narrow as barely to afford a footing On reaching the foot of this range, the track winds along the banks of the Maitai river until it enters Nelson.

"To make this track at all practicable, would necessarily involve a very large outlay. Many substantial bridges would be required to span the streams, which, although at this season are easily forded, after heavy rains or thaws, are swollen to a considerable size; the banks in many places showing arise of from ten to fifteen feet. The impracticability of avoiding many of the very steep ascents would also render the road at all times difficult, and, excepting as a mule track, useless for any description of vehicle.

"As the track remains at present, it is tedious enough for foot passengers, in many places already much overgrown, and through its whole extent the stumps remaining a foot above the ground, the larger trees having been allowed to fall across and remain as they were felled. The whole distance can be accomplished in two summer's days.

Journey from the head of the Pelorus through the Kaituna Pass to the Wairau Plains, by Mr. Blackney.

On February 19th, at noon, Lieut. Jones, Dr. Joliffe, and myself, left the ship to travel through the Kaituna Pass to the Wairau Plains.

We arrived at the village, Orakawhea, where we engaged our natives at 3s. 6d. per diem. This village has about forty natives, belonging to the Rangatani tribe. The river here (Kaituna) is not more than thirty yards broad at H. W., and the water always fresh. It is one mile within the mouth, and situated on the east bank, the land about it cultivated with wheat, maize, and potatoes. They do not appear to grow pumkins, melons, or onions, as in the northern island.

On the 20th, we crossed to the west bank, and commenced our journey towards Wairau, accompanied by several natives. In half an hour we crossed the Whakaihu, twenty feet broad, its bed pebbles. It rises in the hills, forming the western boundary of the valley. Three miles from Orakia, where we left the surveyors (Barnicott's track), taking the native track at the suggestion of our guides, who said it was the shortest; but we found it very difficult, having to crawl beneath low trees and among supple jacks, and occasionally stung by a nettle, that gave infinitely more pain than those at home.

At 10 a.m. we crossed to the east bank, and came to a small pond called Tekopua, in which the natives caught eels, by groping for them in holes which they made near the edges; each eel weighed two lbs. At 11.30, we again came on Barnicott's track, and at noon crossed the Rororariki and Kariki streams, and came upon an open fern land, which is judged to be 200 feet above the level of the sea. Within an hour we crossed the small streams of Awakari, Teawheki, and Motupuki, heading the Kaituna at Orameo. Here we found the water good and clear, running over a bed of pebbles, and about eight miles S. S. E. from where we started. Three quarters of an hour from this brought us to the Wairau Plains.

Our principal route had been through a level forest. Our guides never failed to point out the Totara tree, saying they were highly prized by the white man, They are scarce, the highest about eighty feet and twenty feet in girth.

From the head of the Kaituna to the head of the Areare (a branch of the Wairau), the distance is not more than a mile and a

half. It is merely a swamp where the latter ends in the forest.

The small streams mentioned were easily crossed, the season being dry, but it is very difficult at other times.

We saws numbers of parrots and pigeons. The robin was so tame as to allow itself to be fed by hand. The natives killed all they could lay hold of for baits to catch eels.

The first view of the Wairau Plains was uninviting, the weather giving it a cheerless aspect, and the drought had been excessive.

About a quarter of an hour after leaving the forest, during which time our road was on the slope of hills varying from 200 to 400 feet high, bare, and lately burnt, we crossed a swamp near the head of the Areare, and ascended about 300 feet of a bare ridge, which, terminating the Kaituna valley is also a part of the northern boundary to the Wairau plains. Crossing this is a seam of quartz rock, meeting the level at an angle of 20°. Having descended the hill, our road was at the foot, and several swamps were crossed, only passable because the season was dry.

Having left our natives behind with the luggage, we were without guides, and, missing the road, we struck off to the right, towards what appeared to be a wharre. This wharre, on approaching it, revealed to us a settler's bouse, which, though built of wood, and thatched, had nevertheless a homely appearance. The owners, Michael Mahar and his wife, welcomed us.

Tuesday, February 21st, at 7 a.m., our natives and their companions arrived, having passed the night at the foot of the quartz hill which we ascended.

We then started for the native pah at Pungarauawiti, crossing the Wairau river a quarter of an hour afterwards. The greatest depth was about three feet, and the strength of the current where we waded two or three knots. The whole breadth was not more than 300 yards. There were dry patches. Yet this short distance made our feet sore, having walked it bare footed. It was difficult to keep a firm footing.

Since September last, very little rain has fallen in the Wairau, so that the river at this time was as low as it ever is likely to be.

And yet, in October, the eldest son of Mahar was lost here. He was on horseback with his brother; both arrived at the edge of the river, about 10 p.m., and the youngest, having found the proper spot, crossed in safety; the other told him he would soon follow, that he was taking off his spurs, and desired him to ride towards home. Supposing him to have stopped on the bank of the river, not venturing to cross until daylight, no anxiety was felt. In the morning his horse was found, and though many people were for three weeks constantly looking for the rider, yet nothing was found of him until a week before our arrival, although

it was six months since he was lost. It is supposed that his horse slipped, and being spirited, threw him, and that he was swept down by the current into some deep hole.

In the winter, travellers are frequently detained by the rains, which cause the river to swell until it is more than a quarter of a mile broad, and makes it otherwise impassable by the strength of current.

At the village of Pungarauawiti, on the west bank of the Wairau, the natives were very hospitable, giving us eels, potatoes, damper, butter, and tea, and never hinting at payment.

The river here is 150 yards broads, and very deep; boats navigate fire miles above.

The pah, two miles from this village, bad been recently burnt by accident, the natives losing much wheat, rice, and sugar.

Having visited Boulder Bank, we returned to Pungarauawiti; but missing the road, we passed with great difficulty through a swamp On arriving at the village, we were again treated with great kindness,

We left Mahar's house on the 25th. We again tried a short cut by walking straight for the hills, and as a natural consequence, passed through a swamp up to our middles. We walked round the base of the hills, arriving at Orakiawhea at 3 p. m., where we found a boat from the Pandora.

The natives walk easily from Mahakipawa to Pungarauawiti in one day, by a road which leads near the Waikakaho, a branch of the Wairau.

During a still night, reports of distant guns were distinctly heard, which proved afterwards to be H. M. S. Fantome, firing at night quarters in Wellington, at a distance of thiry-eight miles.

There could have been no other guns in Cook's Straits. The natives, as well as ourselves, felt assured they were guns; and we have since found that the Fantome was firing at that exact time.

From the observations of the officers on this pass (for illness prevented me from prosecuting the journey), I cannnot believe that Pelorus offers a better means of shipment of the produce of the Wairau plains than Port Underwood. The swamps are barriers to road making, and oven if this were overcome, the difficulties of navigating the Pelorus to the anchorage are considerable.

The banks at the head of the Pelorus would prevent a vessel of burden approaching the Kaituna nearer than six miles; and during ordinary winds, it would take a sailing vessel three days to work out, with difficulty of reaching an anchorage of moderate depth. We had on one occasion to let go a bower anchor in thirty-seven fathoms, and it is necessary to anchor in every tide.

To continue the description of the Pelorus-

At Chetwode island we left the Tawhitinui reach. It differs from other portions of the Pelorus by having ib it, besides Chetwode island, three islands – Tawhitinui, Awaiti, and Oaie. These latter all in that part of the reach where Croixilles harbour is separated by an easy half hour's walk over a hill of six hundred feet.

Kawai Sound forma the head of Tawhitinui. The four bays at its head are all of the same nature, backed by mountains from 2000 to 3000 feet high.

The channel west of Chetwode island is called the Apuan, and is half a mile broad, with twenty-seven fathoms. There is a double bay south of it which cannot be three miles from the French pass; but the range dividing it is very precipitous. As we proceed outwards along the west coast, we come to Waitata Bay, perfectly clear, with fourteen fathoms throughout. The points of entrance are Kaiaua, a yellow point, and Moitena, having a white rock off it resembling a boat under sail.

Waihmau Bay is considered a good anchorage by the natives, as the squalls are not so heavy as in those on either side; but the only danger in the Pelorus is at the mouth of this bay, the Kainoki rock having one foot on it at low water. From it, Danger Point, the north point of the bay, bears N. N. W. half a mile, and West Entry Point, N. E. by E. one and a quarter miles.

Port Ligar, named after the Surveyor-General, immediately within the West Entry Point, is a fine harbour, and equal to any in Cook's Straits. The outer portion, called Kopi. has fourteen to seventeen fathoms. The north part of this harbour is separated by a narrow creek of a quarter of a mile from Admiralty Bay (Cook's Straits).

The north entrance to Port Ligar is formed by a long yellow clay point tapering to tie water. From it the land trends N. by E. one and a quarter miles to a bluff point opposite the Kakaho island. From thence the coast trends westward to Admiralty Bay. There is a rock covered at half tide in the channel between Kakaho island and West Entry Point, with twenty-five fathoms round it, although not more than three cables from the west shore.

In coming through the Kakaho channel, bound for the Pelorus, keep the Guard Island rocks on the starboard bow until West Entry Point is open, then you are clear of it.

There are in the Pelorus at least thirty bays or anchorages, mostly land locked, and safe in any winds. The gusts in bad weather are very furious. In these anchorages water may always be found, and an abundance of fish may be caught off the points.

The tides in the stream run from two to three knots; the effect is scarcely felt in the anchorages. The prevailing winds blow down the reaches from seaward, but when it shifts to the S. E., it

is accompanied by heavy rain and violent gust, lasting forty eight hours.

I may here remark, that on visiting Queen Charlotte's Sound in January, 1854, we found in Ship's Cove the following interesting relics of Cook. The root of a Karaka tree close to the beach, hollow beneath. On this root was cut deep and distinctly "look under."

The only portion disfigured being the last syllable of "under," which has made some travellers believe that the "look" is "Cook," and the "and" the beginning of "end-eavour." But I think the following extract from Cook's voyages explains the case: –

"The morning before we sailed, I wrote a memorandum, setting forth the time we last arrived, the day we sailed, the route I intended to take, and such other information as I thought necessary for Captain Furneaux, in case he should put into the Sound – and buried it in a hole under the foot of a tree in the garden which is in the bottom of the cove, in such a manner as might be found by him or any European who might put into the cove. I, however, had little reason to hope it would fall into the hands of the person for whom it was intended, thinking it hardly possible that the Adventure could be in any port in New Zealand, as we had not heard of her in all this time. Nevertheless, I was resolved not to leave the coast without looking for her where I thought it most likely for her to be."

A few yards behind it there is an old tree with

"T. Brown" "Endavour" the "e" being left out.

The natives did not seem to be aware of this relic, but they call the root "Cook's tree." And I sincerely hope that it may be preserved, and think the natives must have been attentive to it, or it could scarcely have escaped the fires eighty-two years.

I have pleasure in annexing a summary of the remarks of Dr Jolliffe, as drawn up by that officer, including the ornithology, botany, icthyology, &c. of the Estuary.

BIRDS MET WITH IN PELORUS.

Hawks – two kinds.

Owls.

Kingfishers.

Tui or Parson Bird.

New Zealand Crow – Kokako of the natives.

Parrot – large brown kind, or Kaka of the natives.

Paroquets – two kinds, one considerably smaller than the other but of similar plumage, called Kakariki by natives.

A small kind of Cuckoo, not larger than a sparrow, called Pipiwawaroa by the natives – a migratory bird,

Pigeon – called Kukupa by natives.

A large white Heron – only seen twice, but are said to be common near Nelson.

Woodhen – Weka of the natives (Ocydromus Australis) a kind of rail as large as the common fowl.

Paradise Ducks – Putangi-tangi of the natives, a small kind of wild goose, with beautiful plumage.

Ducks of several kinds – Parera of the natives.

Teal.

Cormorants – several kinds of. They live in communities, and build their nests in trees overhanging the water. The Phalacrocorax Punctatus, or Cristatus (spotted shag) is said to be common in Pelorus, but we did not meet with any – all kinds are called Kauwau by the natives.

Quail – formerly abundant, now becoming scarce.

Oysterpickers – two kinds, called Toria by natives.

Pukeko – numerous in swampy places.

New Zealand Robin – common in the bush, and remarkable for its tameness.

The Kiwi-Kiwi and Kakapo – formerly common, but not now to be found in the neighbourhood of Pelorus.

A small bird with yellow bead and neck-size of the Canary, and in flocks of a dozen.

Stilts – two kinds, called Toria by natives.

Flycatchers and Fantails.

Gulls, Petrels, and other sea fowls – common near the entrance of the Pelorus.

The above are the most common kinds met with. There were several others, especially small birds.

All the birds in the bush are exceedingly tame; the Weka is easily caught with a noose at the end of a stick, the bird being attracted to the spot by brushing the ground with a bough, or the noise made by breaking pieces of stick.

The Robins are so exceedingly tame and unsuspicious, that they pitch upon one's head or shoulders when sitting quietly.

The Pigeons are even more tame or stupid, for they sit quietly on the branches, and allow two or three in succession to be shot out of the same tree.

The Ducks are the only wary birds met with.

TREES.

Black Birch – exceedingly common, forming the greater portion of the forest near the water's edge.

Totara – of very large size in the forests at the end of the Pelorus. Several are pointed out by the natives as being fine trees.

Kahikatea – red pine.

Manuka – Tea tree of larger size than we any where before met with in the North island.

Nikau – palm (areca sapida) was found in abundance and of great size, being about 180 miles farther south than is mentioned in Dr. Hooker's Flora of New Zealand.

Rimu – drooping pine, numerous and large.

Rata – plentitul, and of large size.

Ti – Ti palm or Ti bush, common everywhere.

Supple-jacks – Karea of natives, numerous in all the forests.

Kawa-Kawa – were of lage size, and numerous.

Tawa – plentiful, bearing a large blue looking fruit with a resinous taste, eaten by pigeons.

Flax – Korari of natives, of different kinds, every where plentiful.

Tutu – the berries somewhat resemble those of the elder. The juice is wholesome and pleasant, but the fruits, stalks, and seeds are poisonous. Three of the men were poisoned by eating the berries of this tree, without first separating the fruitstalks and seeds. They were seized with convulsions, delirium, retching, and a severe burning pain in the throat and stomach, followed by a swollen tongue and a soreness of the throat. They recovered from the convulsions and delirium in a few hours without any medical assistance, and the after consequences were easily removed by a brisk purgative.

Tawai – a large tree, commonest of all the trees in the Pelorus forests.

Ferns – mosses, and the other tribes of Cryptogamic plants, were exceedingly numerous and of most luxuriant growth, the tree ferns were particularly large and beautiful. Upwards of ninety kinds of Ferns and Club Mosses were found, and all, excepting about six species, are common to both the North and Middle islands. Of Mosses, Jungermannii, Liverworts, and Lichens, more than 140 kinds were collected, the greater number of them being also found on the North island.

New Zealand grass (native grass) is found in the valleys and on the cleared spots on the neighbouring hills of the Pelorus, but was not met with in any quantity nearer than the Wairau Plains.

FISH.

Rock Cod – Pakiri Kiri of natives, red and brown, or black, very numerous.

Snapper – Tamuti, not abundant.

Sea weeds and corallines are very scarce within the Pelorus, although plentiful in different parts of Cook's Straits.

Terakehi – not abundant.

Hapuka – plentiful near the entrance in deep water.

Barracouta – plentiful near the entrance.

Conger – eel, occasionally met with.

Ling – about four feet long, and resembling the European fish of the same name.

Whiting (or resembling the European Whiting).

Kahawi.

Flat fish – Patiki, plentiful in the rivers at the end of the Pelorus.

Eels, freshwater – common in the rivers and swamps, and of great size. Some were seen more than four feet long, and upwards of a foot in circumference at the largest part. The natives said that they frequently found them much larger even than this.

Herrings – a small kind, six to ten inches long.

Mullet – not numerous.

Sting-Ray – not very numerous.

Porpoises – occasionally seen a long distance up the estuary.

Sharks – small size, from four to six feet in length.

Crayfish – at the entrance.

Oysters – a few, and bad tasted.

Mussels – many kinds and numerous.

Cockles – few.

Pipis-few.

Shrimps – few.

A Cephalopod Mullusc, called the Octopus or Poulpe, was very plentiful, and of great size. It has eight arms, that may be extended two or three feet in length, and each arm has upon it upwards of 110 suckers, the largest about the size of a sixpence, the smallest not larger than a twopenny silver piece. With this cupping glass apparatus, the creature can adhere to any surface with the greatest firmness; even smooth, slimy, Earfish held with the greatest ease, as we proved on several occasions by hauling up a fish with one of these creatures firmly fixed to it, and even after cutting off its arms, the detached portions remained firmly fixed to its prey. When wounded in the water, the creature throws out a large quantity of black fluid (sepia), and escapes in the darkness caused by its diffusion in the water

Thousands of Medusae, or Jelly Fish, were floating about in the water, showing beautiful golden and silver colours, as the sun's rays were reflected from their various surfaces and fringes. All of them had four brilliant rings in the centre of the umbrella shaped crown, placed at equal distances from one another.

Star fish of many varieties are numerous on the rocks at low water.

Lizards – small, brown, and green, were occasionally seen.

Insects were far from being numerous, excepting the common house fly, flesh fly, mosquitoes, and sand flies – these were all abundant enough.

The flesh fly deposited its larvae upon all animal substances, if left exposed for a short time, even the flags, cloth clothes, and blankets, did not escape.

Wild pigs were plentiful in the bush, and some of good magnitude. One brought on board weighed upwards of two hundred

pounds, after the offal had been removed, and was exceedingly fat and well flavoured.

The tusks of some of the boars were eight inches in the curve, and exceedingly sharp at the points – very dangerous weapons and capable of inflicting most severe wounds. A native was brought on board with a wound five inches long, and two deep, across the outer part of the thigh, inflicted by the tusk of a wounded boar.

Only two or three minute species of land shells were found, although search was frequently made for them in all places.

KAWHIA.

For leading marks over the bar: – Rock off South Head in one with a beacon on Te-motu. Te-motu is 1 1/2 miles within the heads, and 2 1/2 miles from the bar; it is about ten feet high, and the beacon to be composed of three (3) spars, about 50 feet high, and being partially boarded, would be seen long before approaching the bar.

The Wai-naere-keke River, or South Channel, requires a perch at each end of a bank immediately within the South Head. The bank is sand and shell, and is just uncovered at low water springs, and is nearly half a mile in length. A small buoy should also be placed on the spit abreast, by which a vessel can be led to safe anchorage.

North Channel or Main requires 2 buoys laid down in 3 fathoms water off the East and West extremes of a half-fathom bank, having dry patches at low water springs. Having passed these buoys, a beacon on Tane-whanga would give the direction till abreast of Leathart's Point. A good anchorage in 3 to 6 fathoms. The remaining part of the channels could be buoyed at pleasure.

AOTEA.

The natural marks for crossing this bar are sufficiently good, (vide Sailing Directions), and the channel within visible at half-tide until reaching Punga-punga Point, off which is a spit which may be hereafter buoyed.

WHAINGAROA.

The natural marks, as given in Sailing Directions, are sufficient, and the navigation afterwards simple.

MANUKAU TO TARANAKI.

Having passed the entrance of Manukau, the southern shores are barren, terminating in sand hills at the entrance of the Waikato, a distance of 24 miles; 30 fathoms grey and black sand 10 miles from the shore. The Waikato has a shifting bar, and has been altogether blocked up. The channel at present is straight, 1/2 a mile from the entrance, and having about 2 1/4 fathoms. Seven miles south of Waikato is the Kapiapia black rock, 20 feet high, 1 mile from the shore. Woody Head is the most conspicuous land on this part of the coast, Mount Karehoe, a conical peak, being 2000 feet high, and the first wooded hill south of the Waikato, This head is 22 miles south of Waikato, and shelters the entrance to Whaingaroa during south and south-west winds.

Gannet Island, 70 feet high, and white with guano, 1 1/2 cable N. E. and S. W., and 3/4 of a cable broad. It is in latitude 37° 57' S. and longitude 174° 36' 20" E,; is steep on the north side, and breaks in heavy weather off the south end; but 30 fathoms will be found a mile all round it. The nearest point is Tauna-tara, or Albatross Point, from which it bears N. W. 1/4 W., 11 miles. The Ewhatu Rocks, Aotea, and Kawhia lie north of Albatross Point, and are described in the directions for those harbours.

Albatross Point is 600 feet high, 20 miles due south of Woody Head, bare and cliffy to seaward, and having detached rocks within a cable. During S. W. winds and ebb-tide there is a great ses off this point; vessels bound to or from Kawhia should give it a berth.

The next projecting point is Tirua, 17 miles S. 3/4 E. from Albatross Point. From the northward it appears as a light yellow cliff, 400 feet high; 1 mile N. N. W. of the point is the Piriroki Reef, just above water.

There is a bay, Nukuharaki, in which boats can land in southerly weather.

Two miles within this point, Mount Whariorino, 2000 feet high, appears like a dome, and the hills it around are well wooded.

From Terua Point to Parinini (white bluff), 900 feet high, is S 3/4 E 29 miles, the coast line is straight, with alternate cliff and sand, backed by a range of moderate height.

The Mokau River is the only stream of any consequence, with little water on the bar at low water, but vessels of 20 tons have crossed it under favourable circumstances, and there is good anchorage within. It is ten miles north of Parinini.

Parinini shows remarkably white to seaward; between it and the next point, Pariokarura, is the bay of of Waikaramarama, studded with rocks extending 1 1/2 miles from the coast.

Pariokarura is 3 miles SW 1/2 S of the White Bluff, and now the coast line trends more westerly, with sand backed by red and white cliffs, The Urunui stream is in the bight, 7 miles from

Pariokarura, and from thence the coast trends W by S, to the north point of Waitera 8 miles, and then SW to the Sugar Loaf at Taranaki 11 miles.

From Terua Point to Taranaki is SSE 50 miles, and a bight is formed 12 miles in depth.

The soundings approaching the coast are regular, having 40 fathoms 15 miles off, greyish-black sand, 30 fathoms at 8 miles, and 16 at three miles, as far as Albatross Point, whence to Taranaki they deepen from 20 to 24 fathoms, fine grayish sand.

The tides are not perceptible 15 miles off the coast, and are not strong except in the vicinity of the rivers and much influenced by the winds; there is a slight current always setting to the westward off the coast.

FROM KAIPARA TO MANUKAU.

From the outer point of the Kaipara south head to the Te-muriwai stream is 26 miles of sand beach, without streams of water. Two miles from the beach a range of hills rise, running parallel to it: between the foot of the sand hills and the sea, is low sand mounds, amongst which are many small lakes. The Te-muriwai is an inconsiderable stream; near its banks, about one mile inland, there is a small Native Settlement; a short distance beyond this stream the beach ends, the coast south being of a bold rocky nature; from here to Waitakiri (on which are two small Native pahs) is 5 miles, there is a track over the coast hills which are all clear of trees, the country within hilly and wooded.

From Waitariri to the Wesleyan College at the Three Kings, the Maories say, is but one day's hard walking. Care is required in crossing the Waitakeri, as at its mouth are quick-sands; the valley through which it runs appears considerable.

From Waikateri to Paratutai (North Head of the Manukau) is 14 miles, the coast precipitous and rocky, broken by small sand beaches at the mouth of ravines, until abreast of Parera Island, from whence to Paratutai is beach (4 miles).

There is no track along this piece of coast, travelling it is both tedious and difficult; the coast hills are mostly covered with the Manuka and other small trees, accompanied by a luxuriant under growth, amongst which the Supple-Jack takes a prominent place. No view can be obtained of the interior; wild pigs are in abundance, and in the streams large eels are plentiful.

On the beach north of Te-muriwai, the Ti-wheroa, or large pipi is found; south to Manukau, iron sand is seen, but not very abundant.

COAST LINE FROM AUCKLAND TO TARANAKI.

BY P. W. W. OKE, R.N.

From Auckland to Onehunga it is 6 miles, along a good road. A small vessel runs from the latter place twice a week to Waihuku the western tributary of Manukau harbour.

At Waihuku there is a good hotel, where every comfort may be had.

From the Waihuku to Waikato, a road may be taken over the sand hills to the coast; and then to Waikato entrance, or by arranging for a canoe to be at the head of the Awaroa, a small river flowing into the main stream; it is then but a short walk from Constable's Hotel; the former route it is 8 miles. For crossing the Waikato in a canoe, the charge is usually 2s., and the landing-place in the vicinity of the Rev. Mr. Maunsell's old Mission Station. The road then lies over the hills for 4 or 5 miles, until arriving at the coast near a point called Oruruaranghi.

From this point to the north head of Whaingaroa harbour, the road is alternately on the beach and over the hills, generally covered with fern, and sometimes striking inland for two or three miles.

The cliffs are of soft limestone, with a softer sandstone over-lying them; there are two small Native Villages on the road.

From Oruruaranghi to Whaingaroa, I should think, is about 30 miles, although the length of the coast is but 19 miles.

There is a large Native Settlement on the north shore of Whaingaroa River. The natives here ask an exorbitant charge for crossing in their canoes, but, with a little patience with them, less will be taken than was formerly asked. The landing-place is in the creek, close to the Wesleyan Mission Station, from whence to Aotea, the road is over hill and dale, through wooded and fern country; (in wet weather excessively dirty and swampy in places) to Aotea, where the mud flats are crossed to Mr. Smale's Mission Station, the whole distance said to be 18 miles, but only 11 nautical miles by the plan.

There is another route to the westward, round the mountain Karehoe, 2372 feet, very difficult and tiresome. The country passed through by this way is over the spurs and ravines of the mountain – good land, bush and fern alternately for 8 miles, until arriving at Waipapa Point; from which point the road is on the beach to Tore Paru, a Native Settlement.

Four miles from the last point, from Tore-paru, the road is over an undulating and partially cultivated country, until striking down to the beach at Taranaki point, two miles from the entrance to Aotea; making the whole distance by this route 17 miles. The sand hills are then to be crossed up to Mr. Graham's station, where a canoe may be procured for crossing.

From Aotea to Mr. Charlton's Hotel at Kawhia, the distance

is four miles, through a good open country, fronted by sand hills to seaward, the greater part under cultivation. Mr. Charlton's Hotel is the resting-place for all travellers visiting this coast, and much can be said for the hospitality of his comfortable house.

From here the river is crossed in a canoe to the south head, from whence the road is over wooded hills for six miles to the coast, about three miles below Albatross Point, and then along a sandy beach for three miles, crossing rocky points and low coast hills. Another nine miles brings us to the Marokopa, a small river sometimes fordable at the entrance, but when not so, a canoe may be had by walking up the river for a short distance,

After crossing this stream, the road is by the coast for about two miles, when the hills must be taken to – a difficult and sometimes dangerous path up and down – two or three times, until coming to the spur of the Moe-Atoa, 1000 feet high, and wooded, the descent of which is down into a small bay, called Nukaharaki.

From the rise above the last named bay, the Whare-orino bill. 2000 feet high, will be seen to the southward, nor will this hill be again lost sight of until arriving at Taranaki. The road is along its foot, through a valley and swamp, for about four miles, and the coast is again reached. There are several small Native Settlements about the sides of the valley, the land alternately wood and fern.

After walking along the shelving rocks at the base of cliffs for about a mile, the rope ladder is reached; it assists to climb a cliff about 20 feet high. From this point the Waikana stream is three or four miles off, partly through bush, and partly along a sandy beach.

The Waikana River is fordable near the entrance when the tide is out. It appears to run from some distance inland between high ranges of hills through a beautiful valley. There are a few natives near the entrance, and some land under cultivation.

From Waikana the road is rough cliff and hilly country for three miles, until again reaching the sandy beach under Te Reinga Point. This beach, for three miles more, is only to be travelled at low water, as the waves wash the bases of the high ironstone cliffs; the point Tokarara at the end of it is difficult at any time of tide.

From Tokarara to Awakino, 6 1/2 miles is a good beach, but can only be walked along at half tide, the high cliffs here and there breaking into ravines form a refuge to the traveller.

The Awakino may sometimes be waded at about half a mile from the entrance, but at a mile up a canoe may be had, which is much the safest way of crossing, the river being very rapid. The Awakino is about three miles to the northward of the River Mokau, the road along a good sandy beach at all times of tide.

By proceeding up the Mokau River for a short distance (less than two miles), a canoe may be procured, and after landing on the south shore near the bead, which is rocky, the distance is two miles along a sandy and rocky shore alternately, until reaching the Makakatino stream, wadeable at almost any time of tide, but a quick-sandy bottom renders it uncomfortable for travellers.

The land about here is hilly and wooded to the shore; after passing the stream, the road is still along the shore at low water or up to half-tide; the high water meeting and washing the base of clifts from 50 to 100 feet high.

We also passed some isolated pieces of cliff which have hitherto proved too hard for the waves to crumble away.

After passing Tekauwau, the road is over the cliff, and alternately cliff and sandy beach for the rest of the way to Tungaporutu, which is distant from the Makakatino five or six miles in a straight line, but more than that walking.

There are natives at Tungaporutu on the north side of the River. This is the largestt stream between the Waitera and Mokau, is unsafe for fording on account of quicksands and the rapid stream. It is also deep – a canoe can be had of the natives. The land about here is densely wooded.

On the south side of the river the high cliffs again rise, and the walking is along the sand at the base, passing some high detached pieces of cliff at equal distances from each other.

Two miles of this walking brings you to Waitamutu Point, which sometimes cannot be passed even at low water. The receding wave must be followed as closely as possible, and as the next one comes in the shore must be made as fast as legs can carry – the water all around the base of the cliff being deep. The least danger is to be washed into the pool, and the greatest to be dashed against the cliff. There is a road over the cliff, but difficult, and much longer.

A little further south is another cliffy point of the same kind, but less difficult. The land on the top of these cliffs is pretty level for some distance, and is covered with high fern and Tu Paki.

From Waitamuta (Runround Point), the road still lies along the beach, under high cliffs (passing Parenini, or White Bluff, on the way) the highest being 900 feet, the distance to Waika-rawa-rawa is 4 miles, at which place the road takes across a barren fern piece of land, cutting off Okariwa Point, which is impassable at all times, and arriving on the beach again, after 3 or 4 miles' walk, the whole distance to Mimi being 7 miles.

At a little distance from the coast, the hills rise to the height of from 800 to 1000 feet, and are covered with wood.

The Mimi stream is wadeable nearly always, and after passing it, the road is along the edge of high cliffs to Urunui stream 2 1/2 miles.

About here the hilly country falls back, leaving a fine piece of

undulating and level country, covered with fern and tupaki. There are a few natives living at the last named place. The river has to be crossed in a canoe. From here the coast may be walked round to Waitera, distant 8 miles, along a hard sandy beach, crossing two small streams, the Onairo and Waiau, on the road.

The Waitera is crossed in a canoe, after which there is a good road to New Plymouth of 8 miles in length.

Iron sand is found in more or less quantities all along the coast.

Mount Egmont has been seen in clear weather the whole way down the coast, even from Manukau entrance, a distance of 120 nautical miles.

COASTLINE FROM MONGANUI HARBOUR (DOUBTLESS BAY) ROUND THE NORTH CAPE TO HOKIANGA.

On September 11th 1851, a party was despatched from Monganui to triangulate round the North Coast, to meet the Pandora in the Hokianga River. It was conducted by Mr. Kerr, (master), and Mr, Oke, (2nd master), accompanied by a seaman, a marine, and two natives.

They walked over 277 miles of coast line in 26 days carrying a theodolite and other instruments.

Leaving Signal Hill (Monganui) they proceeded round Doubtless Bay. After 5 miles they came to the Taipa, a broad stream flowing into the Bay. It was crossed in canoes, the natives not asking for payment.

The Taipa runs through a fine valley, in which are many spherical boulders of transuted stone, some measuring from 16 to 18 yards in circumference. On the left bank of the Taipa, a short distance from the mouth is the native village and pah of Oruru, whose chief is Nopara.

Three miles beyond the Taipa a sandy beach, 8 miles long forms the head of the Bay, it is backed by sand hills, and a chain of lakes and swampy ground for 4 miles, until reaching the Awanui River. The Mapere Lake is 4 miles in circumference, one in breadth.

The Waiparara, 2 miles in length.

From the north end of the beach it is leas than 2 miles across to he open sea.

KARA-KARA BAY.

A bold peninsula with hills rising to 600 feet, forms the N. E. boundary of Doubtless Bay, terminated by Cape Kara-Kara, off

which are several inlets, (Vide Sailing Directions). Proceeding towards Cape Kara-Kara. 1 mile from the head of the Bay is the native village of Watu-wiwi having about 40 inhabitants, and a decent schoolhouse, connected with Kaitaia Mission.

Two miles further is the property of Mr. Brodie, (Kawhoehoe) having a small bay sheltered by Knuckle Point. Here there is much land adapted to cultivation, and copper ore has been discovered.

There are also native settlements in Orurua, and Maitai Bays; but the adjacent points are steep, and and therefore the paths are inland.

Maitai Bay is resorted to by whalers, (Vide Sailing Directions). From Maitai to Karakara Point, 3 miles, thence round to Karakara Bay, the hills are steep and unproductive.

Kara-Kara Bay has a beach 4 miles in length, terminated by Puheki Hill 300 feet high. The N. E. end of the Bay is only l mile across to Maitai. Two miles east of the hill, the sandy coast continues to the mouth of the Awanui, near which is the Wai-parara lake about 1 1/2 miles in circuit.

The Ranga-ounou River is called the Awanui when it narrows 8 miles from the mouth. It was necessary to cross the River near the entrance, as 2 miles above, the extensive swamps and mangrove creeks, renders it impervious at high water. The Ranga-ounou is nearly 4 miles in breadth, and during freshes considerably more, but at the mouth and at the anchorage it is not probably more than from 1 1/2 to 1/2 a mile.

The Awanui rises in the range of mountains exending from Ahaipara to Hokianga, of which Maunga-tanawha is the most remarkable peak 2050 fee'.

It flows through an extensive plain of good ground, called the Victoria Plains, the property of Nopare, chief of Oruru. These plains are 10 miles long, from 3 to 6 in width, patches here and there cultivated by the natives.

The Mission Station of Kaitaia is seated on the bend of the Awanui, where the stream trends from the westward to the northward. It is about 30 miles by the River to the mouth; and 10 miles above Mr. Southie's Station. The whole country around is constantly inundated by freshets, notwithstanding there is much grass land under cultivation, as these overflows cause a rich deposit, they saw about 800 sheep, productive orchards, with a variety of fruit trees.

At Taipo (Mr. Southie's) small schooners load, this is 8 miles from the mouth of the Awanui proper. There has been as much as 2000 acres under cultivation here. The officers speak in grateful terms for the hospitable reception they met from the Rev. Mr. Mathews, the Rev. Mr. Pucky, and Mr. Southie.

From the mouth of the Ranga-ounou to the Hohora River, is a sandy beach of 7 miles, to point Repi-repi where the river was crossed in a canoe.

For the navigation of the Hohora River and Bay, (Vide Sailing Direction

The river is 5 miles long, but only navigable near the mouth. At low water the upper portion is mud flats 3 miles in length by a mile in breadth. It runs parallel with the coast, with sand hills between it and the west coast, a distance of 4 miles, and the east coast is little more than 1 mile from it. A range of hills called by Cook, Mount Camel, from its appearance forming the separation.

Among the valleys of this mountain the natives have several cultivated spots, but they do not usually reside here. Hohora Bay offers excellent shelter for vessels in the prevailing westerly winds.

I have before mentioned it, as an admirable retreat for vessels bound westward, and meeting with a N. W. wind off the North Cape, wood, water, and fish can be procured here.

From Hohora to Parenga-renga a distance of 22 miles, is along on inhospitable and dreary coast. The first 10 miles alternate cliff, and open sandy bays, then a white sand beach extending to Parenga-renga. The walking easy at low water, but heavy when the tide is in.

The bar harbour of Parenga-renga is 6 miles south of the North Cape (Vide Sailing Directions). The bar has 15 feet at low water, and as the swell here is inconsiderable in the prevailing westerly winds, with a little outlay this might be made a valuable port for coaling steamers. There is plenty of room and water within for any number of vessels. There is a point on the north shore at which vessels can lay alongside, and moreover there is a seam of coal which as far as we can judge is very extensive, we traced it for 400 feet, 3 to 4 feet broad at the surface from a point without the harbour. We found it again protruding within the harbour at nearly miles distant, and being upon the same bearing is probably identical.

The specimens we brought resembling the Bovey coal, were not very good, but it had been taken from the surface, and being exposed to the action of the sea, it was scarcely a fair test.

There are a few native settlements, which compose the northernmost tribe, about 150 in number (Rarewa's) if we except a family residing at the North Cape. These natives were found particularly hospitable.

Between Parenga-renga and the North Cape, there are sandy bays, with rocky projections intervening, but at low water it is possible to walk along the beach. In one of these bays the Maukin, whaler, ran on shore in March 1852, during a N. E. gale.

There is fair anchorage within the North Cape, although always more or less swell.

The family before alluded to living at the North Cape, is known, as Tom Bowline's, an elderly man. There are from twenty to thirty persons who occasionally supply whalers, when as seldom happens they can anchor off the bay west of the Cape.

During the time E. Hongi scourged the North, these people

escaped to the Three King's, and lived there some years, we have seen the remains of their whares there.

The ship Barclay brought them away March 10th 1848. In a certificate he gave to Tom Bowline he states he found them in a state of starvation.

The following is a copy of the document: –

"The ship Barclay, March 10th, 1848, touched at the Three Kings, where I found the people in a state of starvation, and very anxious to get on the north part of New Zealand, I thought it was my duty to take them there, considering the circumstances in which they were placed, so I took them on board, (twenty in all, ten of whom were children), and landed them on the N. W. part of New Zealand, with bread and flour enough to last them about two months. I think, with the assistance of some friends, they will be more likely to get a living here. Landed them on the 12th March.

"(Signed)
"HENRY S. MANN,
"Master, Ship Barclay."

(On the back).

"Tom is the master man, he speaks English, and has a large family."

It is amusing to see in this simplicity but charitable intentions of Captain Mann, seeing that these people had returned to their own home. A resident in New Zealand will also detect the native characteristic of extortion.

A traveller will find an easy road from the bight within the North Cape, to Tom Bowline's, a walk of 4 miles, from thence over the mountainous and rugged ranges to Cape Maria. No distinct path will be found.

These barren regions are seldom visited by the natives, being considered the land of spirits, and from whence the soul takes its departure, but these superstitious notions are peculiarly advantageous to the breed of swine, which our travellers found here in great abundance, and might have taken any number. They describe these hills as being lightly covered with fern, the soil reddish clay, with masses of conglomerate protruding. The country is called Maori Whenua. It is not practicable to walk along the beach on the North Coast.

From North Cape to Cape Maria is 21 miles, the breadth of this range facing seaward to the north to the sand plains, is about 4 miles, they are generally steep, and but a small portion could ever be cultivated. The highest peak is less than a 1000 feet. Cape Maria and the coast line has been described (Vide Sailing Directions.)

The walk from Cape Maria to Ahaipara occupied 5 days, they said the country presents to the eye a land of ruins, the soft sandstone decaying, and leaving the harder portions standing in all kinds of fantastic shapes, reddened by oxide of iron. Although tedious walking, this 45 miles of beach afforded them a supply of

Tamuid, which they caught in the surf, and the Toheroa by digging into the sand. They saw duck, curlew, oyster-peckers, and gulls in great abundance and several parts of the beach was strewed with whale's bones, it being evident they are not very frequently stranded here.

In a bay at the south extreme of this 45 miles of beach is the native settlement of Ahaipara, having 400 to 500 inhabitants, several horses, and much cultivated land, they speak of the sea having encroached considerably upon this coast within the memory of man. An Englishman named Walters pointed to a part now the tidal beach, where whares had been within the last 8 years, they fell in with a very venerable old native who remembered Cook in Doubtless Bay, his name is Pakeha.

The journey from hence towards Hokianga was round Reef Point, and along the base of sand hills until they reached Herekino, where H. M. Brig Osprey was lost, there are still remains of her, they found no natives, but having discovered a canoe, with out paddles, they managed with a piece of wood to get across, the river, being about 1/3 of a mile broad, but the entrance at low water is not more than 100 yards.

The Herekino rises at the foot of the range running to Ahaipara, and is navigable for canoes the whole distance, a mile from the mouth it forms two arms, of which the northernmost is the principal, but the settlement is on the southern, it is not however a populous district. On the south bank they saw some cattle, and on arriving at the native village of Herekino, 2 miles from the mouth, they found natives who killed a pig and treated them hospitably. They ascended the Herekino hill about 900 feet, and found the country of rich fern soil, from this hill they were repaid by seeing the Pandora proceeding to Hokianga.

To walk from Herekino to Wangape is 2 miles, the path is inland, and 5 miles from the mouth of Herekino to Wangape. Wangape rises in the same range, and forms 2 branches 2 miles from the entrance, having native villages on each branch. There is abundance of kauri on the river. (Vide Sailing Directions.)

From Wangape to Hokianga is 11 miles, the walk, excepting the first mile being along a sandy beach; on the sand hills they found several cornelians.

COAST LINE FROM HOKIANGA TO KAIPARA.

This was travelled by Messrs. H. Kerr and George Stanley. They left the Pandora February 13th, 1852, in Hokianga.

Starting from the pilot's bouse at the South Head, they walked along a rocky coast, until they reached Waima Maku streams (5 miles), which were waded at low water.

Three miles inland is a valley of that name, with a native settlement. From hence to Koatu point, 23/4 miles, the coast still continues rocky, but the land within in many places appeared to have good superficial soil, although generally indifferent, as shown by the white clay and quantities of kauri gum.

Beyond Koatu point there are a few patches of cultivation, which, as well as the valley of Waima Maka, belongs to the natives of Pakanai in Hokianga.

From Koatu point to Maunganui bluff is 11 miles – a sandy beach backed by sand cliffs 100 feet high.

Four miles from Koatu, the Waipo disembogues. There is not more than two feet at the mouth, but it is navigable for canoes to some distance within, having a small village and some kumera plots on its banks. The land within is nearly barren, until within 3 miles of Maunganui bluff, where a valley of considerable width stretches to the eastward, bound by Maunganui bluff to the southward. This is called Waikara, and is cultivated.

They ascended Maunganui (2000 feet above the sea level), and their journal remarks that it is broken into two ranges by a valley at an elevation of upwards of 1000 feet, and falls inland, probably meeting the valley of Wairoa. The passage over the bluff is not difficult, although, with the exception of the valley, it is thickly wooded. It can be performed in about three hours.

"Whilst on the bluff (waiting for fine weather to observe) we were overtaken by a large party of horsemen and pedestrians, who proved to be our friends of Pakanai (Hokianga) proceeding to Kaipara to meet their chief, Rangitera, who was going round in the Pandora. They insisted on our taking a quantity of damper and potatoes, and bade us good-bye; but did not forget us, for having caught Some fish in the surf, about ten miles further, they left some, with potatoes, calling our attention to it by a board, written on with chalk, and addressed to one of our natives – thus proving that they had not forgotten the kindness received from the Pandora's, and that a mutual good feeling existed.

"From a bare peak on the outer extreme of Maunganui, the heads of Kaipara, and all the land about the Wairoa, may be seen – Toka Toka and Maungaaura being very conspicuous,

"From Maunganui to Kaipara heads, 48 miles, is a straight line of sand beach, backed by crumbling sandstone cliffs, of a general elevation of 250 to 300 feet, broken by numerous small streams. The land within does not rise to any considerable elevation above the coast, and has generally a barren appearance.

"Eighteen miles from Maunganui, the Wairoa runs parallel to the sea coast at a distance of five miles, increasing to seven or eight at the heads.

"Thirty-four miles from Maunganui, we turned in on a track to the Wairoa, and after a short walk, descended to the village of Wanohiu, situated at the head of a valley which runs to the Wairoa. It belongs to the people of Pakanai, whose slaves hare been living here as free men.

"Here we again met our kind friends of the road, who treated us most hospitably.

"There is here a quantity of land under cultivation, in fact, nearly the whole that is available. After leaving this village, we soon arrived at the ship lying in the Wairoa."

In many places from Maunganui bluff to Kaipara heads, they saw quantities of kauri gum, large roots and branches of trees closely packed together, sometimes at the base, and others 100 or 200 feet up the sides of the cliff, – many places the wood had almost become lignite. No iron sand was seen along this beach.

Fifteen miles from Maunganui, and thirty-three from Kaipara North Head, they fell in with the remains of the French Alcmene, and the whole beach was lined with fragments of her.

On this beach they also found the gigantic pipi shell, six to seven inches long, which made excellent food, – and snappers.

John Dory and Ray were caught in the surf.

BAY OF PLENTY.

CAPE RUNAWAY TO MAKETU.

On October 22nd. 185S, H. M. S. Pandora hove to off C. Runaway (Whangaparaua), and landed Messrs. Oke and Ellis in a small bay to the westward of that Cape, to commence a survey of the coast-line to Maketu. The Pandora afterwards anchored in the roads.

Early on Monday morning we began the ascent of Cane Runaway peak, 960 feet high, and quite steep on the east and west sides, running down like a sharp back towards the Cape, bare of wood, but of which there is a great quantify a little further inland.

The formation of the Cape is a fine slate and serpentine rock. From the summit I had a good view of Motu-hora, White Island, Mount Edgecumbe, and the snow peaks of high mountains south.

After descending to breakfast, we walked two miles by a rugged road, round to a whaling station in Whangaparaua bay, and as we could not cross the river in the east end of the large sandy bay, we remained here, pitched the tent, and visited the conical peak immediately over the bay, from whence we had a view of the fine valley through which the Whangaparaua runs.

The valley extends nearly to Hicks bay, along the back of the coast range of hills, extending between the two roadsteads, Whangaparaua and Hicks bay. These hills rise to the height of from 800 to 1200 feet.

At 6 o'clock in the evening, the Pandora weighed and made sail, the whale boat of the station leaving her at the same time. The wind which had been blowing fresh all day from the westward, and sent a short sea into the bay, was now so light as to prevent her gathering way to tack, and the sea setting her towards the shore. As the sun set a gun was fired, which we thought was a signal of good bye to us. A second fired immediately afterwards told that she wanted assistance. A whale boat was launched, and a crew of volunteers on the way on board, when the third gun was fired. The second boat was now launched and manned. By this time she had anchored, and we watched with intense anxiety as long as daylight lasted, to see if she neared the shore. Fortunately the anchor held. We waited till nearly eleven o'clock for news of her having cleared the cape. Soon after midnight the boats returned, and she was all safe at sea. The boats' crews were much pleased with the reward given for their assistance.

A ten minutes' walk over a rocky point leads to the Whangaparaua river. It being low water we crossed knee deep, and got on a sandy beach trending {to the westward for two miles, when we ascended and crossed the low yellow point to another sandy bay, the land in the back ground rising in terraces, but further back, and visible from the coast, are high wooded hills.

The second sandy bay is miles long before coming to the slaty rock which here shelves out to seaward, and then occasionally appearing in detached rocks, extending round Orete point one mile to the native village of Orete.

Orete point is low, and has a curious hummock on the extreme, with much lower ground inside. It rises very gradually to the wooded hills in the back ground. The distance of the village from the whaling station is seven nautical miles.

Between Orete and the entrance of the Rau-Kokore stream, 2 miles distant, there are two small native villages and some cultivations. The road is along the beach, composed of angular pieces of slate, very difficult walking, so bad as to have worn our shoes through in several places.

The Rau-Kokore is not wadeable at the entrance. We had to walk up 1 1/2 miles along the bank, and crossed it in its broadest part. It flows down a broad valley, with high wooded hills on either side. In times of heavy rain the whole expanse of the valley must be covered with a rapidly running river, and consequently impassable to the traveller.

To the westward of the stream, a shingle reach extends for two miles, after which the road is a succession of ups and downs, high points to cross over, and sharp shingle beaches to coast along, Irregular rocks lie off the points, and in most of the small bays there is scarcely room for a boat to pull in and beach. This kind of coast walking extends from the west end of Papatia bay to Waikaua, distant six miles, with high wooded hills abutting in high cliffs to seaward.

The geological feature is clay slate, in some places more crystaline than in others, and occasionally interspersed by fine veins of quartz.

We ascended some of the hills which appeared to be more clear of bush and trees than the others, and from them had a view of the coast and islands in the Bay of Plenty, also a sea of wooded hills in the interior.

At Waikana there is a whaling station, and a small cove which protects the boats here. The road became better as we went along to the native pah, Pahaua, one mile from Waikaua.

At Pahaua we saw a great many natives assembled to wait for the tide to ebb from the Te-kere-u stream, to enable them to cross on their way to the Kaha, and not wishing to be bothered by them we pushed on to the river, swam over, and sat down to dinner on the opposite side; but scarcely had we cooked our bacon, than the whole body of natives began crossing the stream, in Indian file, and coming to us, persisted in shaking hands one after the other, and we despaired of ever being able to get a mouthful of dinner. We could have well dispensed with their civility. When the greater part had passed, the children stood round, and looked as if they had never seen a Pakeha feed before.

We made our tent down in One-roa bay, about 4 miles from the Kaha, where we heard that Mr. Davis, of the Church Mission, had arrived.

An hour's walk along the shingle beach brought us to Whare-Kura abreast a small peninsula. From hence the road struck in over a flat piece of country to the Kaha, four miles from Te-Kereu.

A great quantity of the land from Waikana to Kaha must have been under cultivation formerly, where there is now only a few patches. The land along the shore is generally flat for from one to two miles in land, when high wooded hills rise to 700 or 800 feet.

There area few Englishmen living about here, whose business is to trade with the natives, principally for grain.

At Tekaha we met Mr. Davies of the Church Mission, Opotiki, who had walked here to settle a dispute relative to a native who had died twenty-two years previously. He had died in one place, and his bones secretly removed to another. This had only lately been found out, by the garrulity of an old woman. So after the lapse of upwards of twenty years, they had raked up an old affair to have a great talk about.

Mr. Davies had hopes of settling it amicably. There were nearly 100 natives assembled in the pah, and 300 more expected (the opposite party from Marae-nui).

The road to Motu-nui is inside the coast-line, and is good, laying principally through old cultivation. The road is then along a shingle beach to Omaio 3 miles, a native village on the east bank of a small stream, to which the tide has access.

Here again there is a large tract of old cultivation, only part of

which is now used. From the top of the hill over Omaio we had a beautiful view of the village, stream, and small plain at the foot of high wooded hills.

From here we had a good path, near the coast, round to the large native village of Tokato (3 1/2 miles). We passed some native cultivation on the road.

Tokata is one of the largest native pahs on the coast, and has a beautiful church. This pah is one mile to the northward of Marae-nui river, is rather dilapidated. All the ground inside not occupied by houses, is sown with potatoes. which they are not allowed to eat themselves (the ground being tapued), but can present to their friends, or sell.

As we slept, or tried to sleep, near a ruined hut, we did not get much rest from the number of nocturnal visitors.

The Marae-nui river is not fordable at the entrance, – coasting craft sometimes get into it, and lay inside on the north shore close to the shingle bank. About a mile from the entrance it is broad, and fordable, running down between two high ranges of wooded hills. Our natives informed me that it came from a great distance inland, and that a road to Turanga lay along its banks.

From hence to Tunapahore, we had a most uninteresting walk of 6 1/2 miles, along a shingle beach, the wooded hills abutting here and there in high cliffs of which Parenui is the boldest.

At Tunapahore, Mr. Davies again overtook us, and here again there was was a great korero about what had gone on at the Kaha. Here we remained at Mr. Davies visiting lodge, and had some tea and a dinner of bacon, bread, and potatoes, the usual fare for an excursion of this kind.

Mr. Davies has occasionally to submit to the natives' custom of rubbing noses (enough to make a man blow his nose off). The pah at Tunapahore is a large double fenced pah, rather ruinous, and at one time held a great many natives.

We left Tunapahore after dinner, and crossed over the hills at the south end of the bay into another shingle beach bay, with a small river, Torere, in which there were two small vessels lately launched, and waiting for the next heavy freshes to get out.

The country about here begins to get more open, from the tops of the hills we had a much better view of the land in the background. Two and a half miles of another shingle beach brought us to sleeping quarters, and at sunset we encamped with no fresh water near but such as we could get out of the foot holes before us. Here we lay down for the night, having overcome the last shingle beach, and nearly worn the boots off our feet.

Mr. Davies arrived early, and we breakfasted at our night's quarters together. After which we had a tiresome walk over Opape point of four miles, on to the first of the long sandy beaches extending from here to the Katikati river. We walked eight miles along a sandy shore at low water, crossing one or two small streams, and crossed the sand hills, to the Opotiki river, about a mile from its entrance, where we found a canoe waiting for us.

An hour's pull brought us (against the tide) to Mr. Davies's house, where we found, by the kindness of Mrs. Davies, every thing ready to make us comfortable, and we rested for the remainder of the day.

The Opotiki, as this river is generally called (vide Sailing Directions). After two days' hospitable treatment at the Mission Station, we started again for the coast, and walked along the sandy beach for four miles to Wai-o-tahi stream, only wadeable at near low water, and being in advance of our natives, we walked up the east bank for some distance in hopes of being able to cross. On stopping, we saw one of the boys attempting to cross near the entrance with the instruments and bread on his back, and in spite of my continued calling, he persisted, until the bread bag got full of water, and he going out with the tide, when he turned for the shore, and fortunately got in. We were obliged to remain and dry the bread; the instruments fortunately did not get wet; and it was nearly low water when we crossed over, rather more than knee deep.

A walk of 2 1/2 miles along the hard sandy beach brought us to the Ohiwa (vide Sailing Directions). We tried to get to the house of a European on the east side of the harbour, after finishing out work on the east head, but the tide had flowed too deep over the mud flats to enable us to get there. A few insolent natives, seeing we were at their mercy, offered to take us there in their canoe for eight shillings: but as we thought the same exorbitant imposition would be practised on us in the morning for crossing to the west shore, we went over at once, and they would not take a shilling less than what they formerly asked.

When over to the west side, we found ourselves in the same difficulty as before, for not a drop of water was to be found. So after walking about a mile along the shore, we stopped at an old bouse in a ruinous condition, with the well dry; so we dug it deeper, and procured water, stinking, but not so bad when boiled and the tea and sugar mixed, as not to be drinkable and refreshing.

The harbour of Ohiwa deserves to be completely surveyed, as being a good central position in the Bay of Plenty, and with the exception of Tauranga, the largest. The land on the south side is hilly, in some places wooded, and in others bare fern, with a good sprinkling of cultivations and native villages.

There are also two or three Europeans living here.

In the morning, after crossing the sand hills, we again found ourselves on a good beach, the end of which we reached at noon, and commenced the ascent of the hills towards Whakatane. From the time we got on to the beach at Opape point, we had a tree or bush in sight on the top of the hills over this river. We now lost sight of it entirely. However, an hour's walk over the hilly and fern country brought us to it, which turned out to be an old but fine Pohutukawa tree, at the side of an old pah, and from which we had a view of the plain extending to the foot of Mount Edgecombe.

The plain is bounded on the east side by a ridge of hills, running in a northerly and southerly direction, and terminated by the point close to the entrance of Whakatane (vide Sailing Directions).

From the middle of the beach between the rivers, the mountain Putauaki, or Mount Edgecombe, 2575 feet high, rises magnificently in the back of the plain about twelve miles distant. The plain is covered with low bush, flax, and fern, and swampy in some places on the banks of the river.

We remained at Mr. Preece's mission station on Sunday. There are several native villages and much cultivation on the banks of the river Whakatane. The Natives are Protestants and Roman Catholics, the greater number being Protestants.

As we wished to go to the top of Mount Edgecombe, it was necessary to consult the chiefs. Two of them, living near, had no objection, on condition that we took no food with us. But they informed us of another living near the mountain whose permission they could in no way be certain of. We also found, on enquiry, that it would be too expensive an undertaking, so we gave up the project.

In the afternoon, with thanks to Mrs. Preece for her kindness, we left for the entrance to the river, 2 1/2 miles distant, and remained there for the night. There were six or eight small native craft lying in the river, and nearly as many more on the stocks. A few Europeans live in the village, near the entrance, chiefly shipwrights.

The hills over this village abut in steep, cliffy slopes of slaty rock, of which there are several large lumps scattered on the shore, as well as in the bed, and at the entrance of the river. It is quite wonderful how small vessels keep clear of them.

The natives here are very reasonable in their charge for crossing the river. They warned us not to put up our instrument on the sand hills, or we should be shot, as it was one of their burial places, and tapu. However, we managed to do all we wanted at the entrance, and then commenced a walk along the heavy steep beach between this river and the Matata, of fourteen miles, the island Motutohora always in sight, and appearing to be going in the same direction, i.e., I thought we should never get past it. We arrived at Matata in the evening, and crossed the river to the native pah, of which there are three here.

This river is more subject to heavy freshets than the Whakatane, and overflowing the sandy bank at the entrance, sets out to sea in a broad sheet of water. In fine weather the entrance is narrow; it is visited by small vessels, two of which we saw on the stocks building.

From Matata to the westward, a ridge of high white cliffs, partially covered with trees, girt the shore for 5 1/2 miles, and a quarter of a mile from high water mark – a good hard beach for walking at low water.

Crossing the Wai-taha-nui, a stream six miles from Matata,

two miles more brings us to Otamarakau, one of the prettiest native villages I have seen in New Zealand, situated on the summit of a cliff, the houses and cultivations interspersed with the dark green Karaka, with the Wai-o-tahi stream, winding round the base of the cliff, and taking its way along the shore. From the hills we had a view of the surrounding country, principally undulating fern land, sloping down into the swamp of the Waihi, a small river, emptying itself just to the eastward of Maketu point, six miles distant.

From the Waihi it is two miles to the Rev. Mr. Chapman's, at Maketu, over the hills, which are cultivated nearly everywhere.

We were received very kindly by the Rev. Mr. Chapman, by whom we were entertained for fourteen days, until the arrival of H. M. S. Pandora.

During the nineteen days we were walking, and surveying 106 miles of coast, from C. Runaway, we had most delightful weather; the natives also behaved very well, never interfering with us, and seldom question what we were about. A short explanation from Sydney Taiwhanga, one of our natives (educated at the Bishop's College) satisfying the most scrupulous.

FROM THE EAST CAPE TO TURANGA.

The native villages and cultivations are numerous, being seldom more than three or four miles apart. The most populous district is the Waiapu, the main stream of which rises near Hikurangi, about twenty miles in a straight line from the coast, over the whole of which extent there are numerous scattered villages and cultivations; the latter are confined principally to the steep valleys and sides of the hills, where they prefer rearing crops, as the soil is richer, and saves the labor of fencing, which is necessary on the level lands, to keep out the cattle, which they possess and are very proud of.

Mokena, the native assessor, (accredited by the authorities at Auckland), is much respected, and feared from his personal strength, and the authority he is enabled to exercise in his official capacity. As far as I could judge, any culprit would be quickly apprehended if he knew that his presence was required at Auckland.

The Government is much respected on this coast; this the traders say has only been brought about lately, and they attribute it to the natives possessing vessels which they fear being seized, but I rather imagine it is from the facility with which they can visit the seat of government, and there hear and see somewhat of its power.

The cultivation for export is almost entirely confined to wheat and maize; potatoes and onions are only grown in sufficient

quantities to supply home consumption, and whalers, who visit the coast (2 or 3 a year) for supplies.

From Tokomaru Bay to Poverty, the population is thinner, which is partly occasioned by the greater accommodation to be found in Turanga, and partly also from the inferiority of the soil, and the hilly nature of the ground. After passing Tawhiti (to the southward), the hill on the south side of Waipero, there was a more sterile aspect in the land than to the northward; but those interested in these neighbourhoods, say it is to be attributed to the numerous land-slips, which are very prevalent; and the natives say that they are to be instrumental in changing the feature of the country from its present hilly nature into level land.

The whites on this coast are the receivers and exporters of the native produce, for the Maories find it more remunerative to sell it to these traders on the coast than sending it to Auckland in their own vessels, as those conveying it pay themselves well; they know also from experience that they cannot buy shirts, blankets, &c, &c., cheaper at Auckland than from the trader on the coast, and therefore, charter their vessels to the Pakeha.

The whites appear to be very dependent on the caprice of their Maori customers, finding it necessary to conciliate the chiefs by small presents, and easy bargains. There was an instance, a short time since, of an Englishman having offended a chief, who took revenge by tapuing him; thus preventing the Maories from having any intercourse whatever with him, so that until he found it convenient to leave, he was beholden to a fellow-countryman for his daily food.

The principal men in the various villages are the native teachers, in opposition to the hereditary chiefs, who have considerable influence even now, but in times of disturbance, the latter probably would soon gain their former position.

There is one marked exception to the above in the great chief, Kani-o-taki-rau, whose authority is undisputed around Tolaga; i. e. from Turanga to the East Cape, and is said to extend to the south part of Hawke's Bay. This great division is the Nga-ti-porou, extending from Cape Runaway to Hawke's Bay. He is a great friend to the whites on the coast, supporting them always when right; and they in return appear to respect him, and treat him on all opportunities with marked kindness. He has lately been ill, but is now recovering: his constitution is much shaken. He has no sons living, and but one daughter. There is a great aversion evinced by the natives to selling land to private individuals; and those resident amongst them say, an equal dislike to selling to the Government.

We found about 15 Europeans between Hicks' Bay and Poverty, and one whaling station at Te Mawhai.

The Awatere river, in Hicks' Bay, is supposed to rise in the Rau-kumera Hills. From it, towards the East Cape for five miles, the coast is rock on sand beaches. A short distance within hills of table-summit of 1000 feet rise abruptly from this

level, on which are several villages and plantations. The Oratua is a considerable stream, west of the last projection before reaching the East Cape: at high water it is not fordable. From hence to the East Cape (Otiki) is mostly sand beach, (3 miles). On this beach the Waipapa disembogues-draining a large extent of country. A mile before reaching the East Cape we came to the village of Poratua.

The Otiki is an isolated hill 500 feet above the level of the sea; on its west is a narrow sandy flat which widens to the south into a swampy plain two-thirds of a mile each way. Its south boundary is the spur which juts from the range parallel with the coast, and east of Waipapa, terminating in Point Opuri. The beach is available for walking between Poratua and this point: there is also a track within Otiki, (rather swampy).

Opuri Point is half a mile beyond the line of beach, south of it; slopes gradually to the north, but on the south falls abruptly, it is of a soft, crumbling nature, easily undermined by the sea and springs, which cause large masses to slip. It now seems like a hill cut down from its summit.

Opuri Point to Wakori Bluff, two miles. The coast between is straight, about 30 feet elevation, faced by a sand beach; the level land is of about the same extent as north of Opuri; with good surface soil, – clay below: the village of Renga-renga is on this flat. Cultivation is carried on to the foot, and on the slopes of the hills. From Renga-renga there is a track leading over the range to the valley of the Waipapa. The valley is said to be well wooded – principally kahikatea. The ascent of Wakori Bluff is tedious, although of small elevation (500 feet): on its summit a view of Hikurangi is obtained. From it to Waikaka is three miles; the track is inland. The seacoast is cliff with sharp peaks; the land within is hilly, and broken by deep watercourses and small lakes; inland the peaks are upwards of 1000 feet, but no defined range.

Ti-arita, 320 feet, the south extreme of this land, is the northern boundary of the Waiapu Valley, a little beyond which is Waikaka village, with its pretty little native church, disfigured by grotesque carvings, not executed in the usual native style, but absurd caricatures of Europeans.

The Waipu is a rapid river, taking its rise in the Hikurangi range, receiving many tributaries, which drain upwards of 25 miles of a mountainous district: it is not fordable. In the winter and spring it is often impassable, – March being the worst month. Where we crossed in a canoe, 1 1/2 mile within its mouth, its breadth was about 80 feet, but during the freshes it is half a mile, the bed being well marked, and consisting of pebbles and boulders: it disembogues north of Pahautia, a hill 420 feet above the sea, and the north extreme of a narrow ridge forming the seacoast as far as te Awainui. This hill is 1 1/4 mile south of Ti-arita. The coast north of the river is sand, which extends inland half a mile.

On the hills north and south of the valley, a good view of the mountainous nature of the country is obtained; the highest point of which is Hikurangi, a double-peaked, mitre-shaped mountain, 5535 feet above the level of the sea, capped with snow: it is sixteen miles from the nearest point of the coast. There are also several high peaks between Hikurangi and the month of the Waiapu, of from 3000 to 4000 feet.

The native plantations and pahs are scattered over the whole extent of the Waiapu Valley, to the foot of Hikurangi. One of the principal villages is Rangitukia, situated on the fork formed by the junction of two tributaries on the left bank of the river, 1 1/2 miles within its mouth: near this is the best spot for crossing the river. A mile farther on, at the back of Pahautia, an Englishman lives. Another 1 1/2 miles is Ti village, on the hills south of the Waiapu. At this Englishman's house we experienced great hospitality, and received the pleasing intelligence that, scattered along our track to Turanga, we should find many Englishmen, and native villages in great numbers: which we found, to our great comfort, correct, the whites being separated by easy stages for ordinary travellers. From hence to Te Awanui is 2 3/4 miles. The track for a short distance is at the back of Pahautia, when it returns to the beach. The Awanui is an inconsiderable stream, separating the low coast hills of Pahautia from the higher range which rises over Wharariki Point to 1000 feet, called Maka-kawa: the extreme of this point is three-quarters of a mile from the Awanui: the beach is available round it.

From the nature of our work, we found it requisite to ascend Maka-kawa, instead of going round the point. It is cultivated more than half up its north face; and a track leads over its summit to a village, which is about one mile south of Wharariki, 400 feet above the sea, on a flat sloping inland, with marks to seaward of heavy land slips. Between this village and Wharariki stood a house, inhabited by an Englishman and family, with two English strangers accommodated for the night. In March, 1853, it was partially buried by a landslip, and carried to the sea, which was beating with great fury on the beach: one stranger was outside at the time, the other escaped by being under the lee of a box, placed on end for a cupboard: it made a hole in the roof, through which he escaped, incurring great risk of drowning in the surf, the owner, with wife and family, were buried in the ruins.

From Wharariki Point to Reporua is 3 1/4 miles, good beach: near midway is a stream and village, (Te Awatere); the land within much broken. At Reporua there is a stream, with a village on the hills rising south of it: the land extensively cultivated. The track here is half a mile from the coast, which is steep and impassable for 2 miles, after which it forms a small bay with sandy beach to Kaimoho Point. In the bay are two villages, one or both of which ate called Tuparoa. Kaimoho Point is North of Waipiro, or Open Bay; it is round, and 4 1/2 miles in extent.

From Tuparoa to the north extreme of the Waipiro, (Matahu), the beach is the only available track, consisting of large stones and boulders, most tedious to travel. The land behind is of about 700 feet elevation, and 1000 feet 3 miles within. Whareponga is a native settlement on the point, one mile north of Matahu, at the mouth of a steep ravine.

From Matahu, round Waipiro Bay, the beach is good; distance 4 miles to Waikawa, a small village. There are two other settlements in the bay; one on the north, the other in near the centre, which is the most important.

Tawhiti separates Waipiro from Tokomaru Bay; it is 1670 feet above the sea, and 4 miles from north to south, in which direction the main ridge runs, with spurs jutting on either side, of little less elevation than itself, and falling precipitously to the water courses, 500 to 1000 feet, covered with small trees. The passage over this hill from Waikawa on the North to Tokomaru may be performed in about three hours: from the summit a fine view of the surrounding country is obtained.

From Tolaga Bay on the south, to the East Cape on the North, and to Hikurangi, the interior is ranges closely packed; the general elevation being about 1500 feet - the greatest about 2000 feet. There is but one remarkable hill, – it is a cone rising 700 feet above the hills around: the total elevation above the sea 1790 feet.

There are four extensive Pahs in Tokomaru Bay. Nothing of the interior can be seen from the beach. The bay is 5 3/4 miles round: There is one considerable stream to be crossed in its S E. corner. On the south side of the bay the land is high and steep, terminating in Te-mawhai, on the south of which is a whaling station in a small cove, called St. Patrick's. In it we were told a landing could be effected at any time that it is possible for a boat to live outside, but we thought that prior experience would be required to escape being dashed on the rocks. From the whaling station at St. Patrick's Cove, the track is over a hill about 1000 feet, to the village, Tango-iro, then on the beach to Marahea, 3 miles from Te Mawai. The intermediate coast is nearly straight; the interior high and broken. There is another village, Tirohanga, within Motu Repa, which island is half a mile from the coast, – 2 1/2 miles south of Te Mawai.

Tiro-hanga Point is impassable at high water, but a good track leads over it: height 400 feet. The coast now falls back, forming Waipare Bay, which is 3 1/2 miles round to Matahu, its southern point, off which is the island of Anaura. There is an extensive Pah; there are also a few houses in the bight of the bay. We were informed that ten minutes walk south from Matahu you come to fine level land, extending to U-awa, or Tolaga Bay. This appears very probable, from the appearance of the coast hills, and direction of the U-awa.

From Matahu, as said, there is a track inland to U-awa: we, from necessity, travelled the beach. Half a mile beyond Matahu the cliffs are impassable at high water, continuing so for half

a mile, when there is a sandy beach for a mile: this brings you under the summit of Marau Point, (1030 feet high); it is rocky, steep, and impassable. A very good road leads across the land within the point; it is elevated about 200 feet, and half a mile wide: at its south termination is the village of Kaiaua.

When we came in sight of the cultivations bordering on this village we were assailed with cries of Pakeka, pakeka and were quickly surrounded by 30 Maories. After exchanging salutations with them, we requested a guide, to point out the best track up Marau summit, but as the chief was very importunate for money, and he not having rendered us any service, it was refused, and we were obliged to ascend by ourselves. It appears the money was intended as a toll for the use of the last half mile of road. The English say that, in some instances, where the payment of it has been refused, they have taken it from the bundle of the Pakeha, and others have been refused the use of it altogether. On our return from the hill, they offered us food, but made no farther demand for toll.

From Kaiaua it is 3 3/4 miles to the north point of U-awa or Tolaga. Midway is the point Turonga Koaiu; it is 612 feet above the sea; its east face is precipitous cliff, with about one-third of a mile of gently sloping land to its base: this is cultivated, and has a very pleasing appearance when coming to it from the northward. The point is steep to the southward: the road is over its summit, which had at one time a fortified pah.

There are several small villages and streams between Marau and U-awa. The land is of little elevation, – the hills mostly clay, and fern-clad. The sides of Tolaga Bay are 400 feet above the sea. On the south rises Titi-rangi, which is 890 feet.

In continuation of the northern ridge, near half a mile, is the island of Motueka. Off the point is Sporing's Island, three-quarters of a mile long, parallel to the coast, and connected with it at low water by land. Within this island, and at the back of the south cliffs of the bay, is the cove where Cook watered, in continuation of it is a small valley parallel to the coast. The natives point out a small well, as a reminiscence of Cook, and call it Te Wai-o-Tupaea: it is four inches across, one foot deep, cut in the rock, with a shallow hole to receive its overflowing: this appears to be for the convenience of drinking. On the rock below, by scraping off the moss, we found "GEM. I. MACKY," cut, and other initials. Further up the valley you come to the natural curiosity which gave Cook's officers much pleasure. It is a hole through the south cliffs of the bay. We found it to be exactly the dimensions stated by Cook, The U-awa runs into the sea at the centre of the bay; the direction of its main branch runs to the northward. Just within its mouth are two pahs; one on either bank: they are in good repair, but uninhabited. The valley through which it runs appears marshy, with flax, toe-toe grass, and several patches of trees: the hills to the west are wooded. The

river is not fordable. Titirangi bill is 3 miles long in the direction of the coast. The track leads along its eastern slope, and passes over the hills which are at the head of the south branch of the U-awa, and which also connects Titirangi with the hills within, then by a steep and circuitous descent to the beach.

The seacoast of Titirangi is clifF, and impassable. The coast falls back a little between Titirangi and Gable-end Foreland, or Pari-nui-te-ra. The distance round is 7 miles good beach, excepting a small piece just past Puatai, which is disconnected stones, impassable at high water. Puatai is a considerable pah, 2 1/4 miles north of the foreland, and 7 1/2 miles from U-awa. The general feature of the country about here is high, steep hills, with cliffs and landslips at the beach. There is a track over Gable-end Foreland, which is 800 feet above the sea: 3 1/4 miles beyond is the village of Pakarae. The beach is good, with several streams, all fordable. The land about Pakarae is sandy, as is also the spot on which it stands. The valley of the stream, near its mouth, runs to the N. W., and the head must be near the head of that of Puatai: the hills between these two and the sea, are about 700 feet to 900 feet elevation. Pakarae is the last village inhabited north of Turanga-nui. The coast from here takes a more westerly direction than north of the Foreland. The distance to Turanga-nui is 14 1/2 miles.

One mile southward of Pakarae is a deserted whaling station, just within Whangara Island, which is connected with the shore at low water. The coast is sandy and rocky, alternately, to a bluff 450 feet above the sea, with shelving rocks at its base. There are several streams on this last coast; the land much broken and hilly. The north head of Poverty Bay, (260 feet) is 4 1/2 miles beyond the last bluff: the coast for two miles is steep, then a sandy beach for two miles more, after which the track to Turanganui is through the valley at the back of its north head.

From both Europeans and Natives on this coast we received great hospitality and kindness and in no instance did we meet with any obstacle to the prosecution of our work from the jealousy of the natives. It will be seen where the native villages are on the coast from the foregoing remarks. The whites are situated as follows: – several between Hicks' Bay and East Cape; two at Opuri Point; one near Waikaka, north of Waiapu, another south of that river; two at Awanui; one at Reporua; at Matahu, N. point of Waipiro; and in the centre of Tokomaru Bay; several at the Whaling Station, St. Patrick's Cove; one at Anaura, Puatai, and Pakarae.

ALL THE BEARINGS MAGNETIC.

ERRATA.

Page 84 – in third paragraph, second line, after "pah" read "which."

Page 84 – in tenth paragraph, fifth line, for "before" read "about."

[Inside cover is blank]

[Cover is blank]

Conditions of Use

By their use of these ebooks, texts and images, users agree to follow these conditions of use:

These ebooks, texts and images may not be used for any commercial purpose without permission from the University of Auckland Library.

These ebooks, texts and images may not be re-published in print or electronic form without permission from the University of Auckland Library. However, educators are welcome to print out items and hand them to their students.

Users are not permitted to download our ebooks, texts, and images in order to mount them on their own servers for public use or for use by a set of subscribers. Individuals and institutions can, of course, make a link to the copies at ENZB, subject to our conditions of use. It is not in our interest or that of our users to have uncontrolled subsets of our holdings available elsewhere on the Internet. We make corrections, add tags, add images, etc. on a continual basis, and we want the most current text to be the only one generally available to all Internet users.

These texts can potentially be used as the basis for additional TEI tagging or for some other etext or ebook project, but we ask that you let us know before you start, so that we can coordinate work on that text and make sure that we are not working on it simultaneously. We would like a copy of the improved text for our collections.

Request for permission form