The New Zealand Settler's Guide

I. R. (Isaac Rhodes) Cooper

First published by Edward Stanford in 1857

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927288-14-6

[MAP]

The Islands of New Zealand
Published under the Superintendence of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge.

[TITLE PAGE]

THE
NEW ZEALAND SETTLER'S GUIDE,

A SKETCH 0F THE
PRESENT STATE OF THE SIX PROVINCES;
WITH A DIGEST OF THE
CONSTITUTION AND LAND REGULATIONS, AND TWO MAPS.

BY
I. RHODES COOPER,
CAPTAIN 58TH REGT.
Experto credite.

LONDON:
EDWARD STANFORD, 6, CHARING CROSS.
1857.

[Page ii is blank]

[DEDICATION]

TO COLONEL WYNYARD, C.B.,

THE LAST LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND,

AND

FIRST SUPERINTENDENT ELECTED BY THE PEOPLE

OF

THE PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND,

This work

IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED

BY

THE AUTHOR.

[Page iv is blank]

[CONTENTS]

CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION . . . . .1

CHAPTER I.
THE COLONY . . . . .11

CHAPTER II.
THE CONSTITUTION . . . .19

CHAPTER III.
Social Condition . . . .27

CHAPTER IV.
SOCIAL CONDITION (continued) ; DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.......35

CHAPTER V.
PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND; EASTERN COAST, HARBOURS, RIVERS, AND SETTLEMENTS.......44

CHAPTER VI.
AUCKLAND (continued); WESTERN COAST, HARBOURS, RIVERS, AND SETTLEMENTS; METEOROLOGY.......57

CHAPTER VII.
TOWN OF AUCKLAND, AND PROVINCIAL LAND-REGULATIONS.......67

CHAPTER VIII.
NEW PLYMOUTH, OR TARANAKI.......77

CHAPTER IX.
DIGEST OF LAND-REGULATIONS OF NEW PLYMOUTH.......88

CHAPTER X.
WELLINGTON . . . . .90

CHAPTER XI.
DIGEST OF WELLINGTON LAND-REGULATIONS.......98

CHAPTER XII.
NELSON.......101

CHAPTER XIII.
STATISTICS OF NELSON.......106

CHAPTER XIV.
DIGEST OF NELSON LAND-REGULATIONS.......113

CHAPTER XV.
CANTERBURY.......117

CHAPTER XVI.
DIGEST OF CANTERBURY LAND-REGULATIONS.......128

CHAPTER XVII.
OTAGO . . . . . . 130

CHAPTER XVIII.
DIGEST OF OTAGO LAND-REGULATIONS.......135

CHAPTER XIX.
THE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT CONSIDERED.......139

CHAPTER XX.
WANTS OF THE COLONY – THE NEW TARIFF.......144

CHAPTER XXI.
CONCLUSION . . . .148
APPENDIX ..... 154

INTRODUCTION.

INTRODUCTION.

ALTHOUGH much has been written on the subject of New Zealand, not only for the information, but for the amusement of the general reader, the author of this publication has never met with a work which comprehends the practical advantages of the colony as an eligible field for the intending emigrant; the geography of the Islands; the various qualities of the land; the constitution; and the bearing of the land-regulations upon the prospects of the different provinces.

In addition to the experience of many years' residence, with ample opportunities and facilities for travelling over all the settlements on the Northern Island, the author has in his possession the land-regulations of the several governments, a digest of which he proposes to lay before the reader. An acquaintance with these regulations, which have never been published in England, will be of great advantage to all who are desirous of settling, by guiding them to the selection of the province most suited to their capabilities and former experience.

In addition to his own personal observations, the

author has frequently conversed on the subject of colonisation with old residents, and had continual access to official documents, local papers, and works published on the Colony, the result of which he proposes to lay before the reader.

The present work offers the further advantage of giving an impartial account of the progress and relative capabilities of the various provinces, their military features, and the several inducements offered to naval and military men to establish themselves in the Colony.

Previous to leaving his own country, the intending emigrant should consider whether he is likely to better his condition by such a step, whether he is provided with, or is likely to acquire the means of carrying on with success, the pursuit on which he proposes to enter. He should weigh well whether he is prepared, for some years at least, to bear cheerfully the hardships and difficulties, with which he is sure to have to contend in a new country.

Having assured himself on these points, it remains for him to determine to what colony he will proceed. The ultimate result desired should in a great measure guide emigrants on this point. Men should leave their own land for the colonies for one of three reasons; viz. either to acquire as speedily as possible a fortune, with which to return home; for the purpose of gaining an improved status, and forming a permanent home in the colony to which they proceed; or for their health's

sake. Climate, soil, political constitution, and social condition of a colony will be of little importance to those who leave home for the first purpose only; but should weigh much with those who emigrate for the two other reasons assigned.

As I consider New Zealand better calculated than any colony for an Englishman's home, I shall dwell in particular on each of the four points to which I have alluded, as matters for consideration by those who may desire to form a new home in a new country. And here it will be requisite to offer a few remarks applicable to the colony at large, on the pursuits open to emigrants, and the capital required for different undertakings, in which remarks I shall endeavour to describe the men likely to find themselves in the right place in a new colony.

For those who land in the colony without previous knowledge of mercantile transactions, with say from £2000 to £3000, cattle and sheep will probably be found the safest and most profitable investment. Cows have averaged from £12 to £20 a-head, for the last four or five years. Sheep from 20s to 30s. Cattle, sheep, and horses were, however, falling in value when I left the colony in July of the last year (1856). Those who understand the breeding of horses may profitably invest part of their money in horse-stock. Horses bred for the cart or plough pay best.

Those who breed cattle and sheep in the neighbourhood of towns, obtain a fair value for the meat, tallow,

and hides, and can also obtain high prices for young oxen broken for draught. Their prices have ranged from £25 to £40 a pair in Auckland for the last four or five years. Cattle imported from Australia frequently yield a good profit to those who first buy them, and keep them in good feed. Some risk, however, attends the purchase of imported cattle, as a plant called the Tout, or Tupaki, frequently kills cattle unaccustomed to it.

It is thought that cheese will become an article of considerable export: New Zealand cheese has already acquired a name. The cheese made at the River Tamaki (Province of Auckland), at Taranaki (New Plymouth), and Port Cooper (Canterbury) is much thought of, and will readily fetch from 1s 3d to 1s 6d a pound in the colonies, and from owners of whaling ships.

For information on sheep farming in the Southern Province and Middle Island, I refer to a work published by Mr. Weld, M.C. (Member of Council). From this work, it appears that the wool alone of 2000 sheep, after the first year, ought to cover the expenses of the station, leaving the increase as clear profit; as the flocks increase, of course the wool gives a greater proportion of profit.

Mr. Weld considers that a flock of from 800 to 1000 ewes is required to commence, on anything like an adequate scale, a self-supporting station. He further suggests, that those who cannot afford to purchase at

least 800 ewes, and at the same time reserve in hand a sufficient fund to cover contingencies, should place their sheep at some respectable sheep station, paying part of the produce for their keep and care: one third of the increase is the usual payment. Matters connected with the sheep stations and Government runs will be further referred to in chapters on the several Provincial Land Regulations.

From the remarks made by Mr. "Weld, as well as from my own observation, I believe cattle-breeding, connected with dairy-farming, near towns, will generally be attended with less risk than that of sheep, and that it is more suited to the means of a small capitalist; but that, to a man of sufficient capital, sheep farming, where there is natural pasturage, will pay best.

It would be well for young men, unacquainted with the colonial management of cattle, horses, and sheep, to reside on a station of some old colonist for the first year, before they invest their money. They would thus be more likely to make a safe purchase, and colonial experience would be gained at the smallest cost. Young men who commence settling, by living in the towns, generally get "used up" before they go to the country. They spend their money at hotels, and too frequently have to fall back on that refuge for the destitute, a Government appointment, which often leaves them in a more dependent situation than they might have been in, had they remained at home.

The only men who can farm with success on a small

capital, are married men, with three or four sons to assist them in fencing, ploughing, planting, &c. Such people may, with from £100 to 36300, farm profitably in the neighbourhood of any of the settlements. People of this description, who are without the necessary capital, may soon gain it by work. For the last four years, 1852 to 1856, crops of all sorts have realised what in the old world would be deemed fabulous prices. Wheat has been selling at from 15s to 20s a bushel; potatoes at from £12 to £20 a ton; oats at from 8s to 14s a bushel. Butter has been selling in most of the provinces at from 2s to 3s a pound; butcher's meat from 8d to 10d a pound. The high price of many of these necessaries of life, is to be attributed to the sudden influx of population in the colonies of Victoria and Sydney, consequent on the discovery of gold.

It is to be presumed, from the facility with which the necessaries of life are raised in New Zealand, that it will be a cheap country, offering an easy home in which to provide for growing families, and for those who, possessed of moderate fixed incomes, are willing to help themselves, without being fastidious about servants, luxurious houses, and wants acquired in over-civilized England.

Many of those who have acquired fortunes in the recent changes of Australia, and who had not before leaving home been possessed of the means of living in luxury and idleness, will find New Zealand much more

appropriate to their circumstances, and better suited to their habits and notions of happiness, than any part of Great Britain.

Colonial experience would enable such people, advantageously, to invest their wealth in a fine property, and they could enjoy many of the comforts of home, without sacrificing the freedom of life, to which they have been accustomed, and which such people are sure to find wanting in an old country.

Few who have resided long in the fine climate of the South Seas, will be contented with the cold, fogs, and snow of Great Britain; and unless they could sufficiently occupy themselves in the excitement of politics, or the amusement of hunting, shooting, fishing, and foreign travel, they would soon be wearied with the idle life led by the rich at home.

Capital may be profitably laid out at interest in any of the provinces, by those who are present to look after it; particularly at Auckland and New Plymouth, in which provinces money has been for some time worth from 12 to 25 per cent. on private security, given in land or houses, and at the former settlement Government securities are as high as 10 per cent.

Those who keep a command of money may with sufficient local experience, often make from 50 to 100 per cent, by buying and selling town, suburban, or country sections of land. For mercantile pursuits Auckland and Wellington are the best settlements. Auckland

commands the largest native trade in the colony, and has the most commodious harbours, and unparalleled advantages of water communication; it is also well provided with kauri pine, much prized for first class ship spars, which have long been, and will continue to be, valuable exports to England and the colonies.

The timber trade, generally, has for the last four or five years been a source of great profit to the province; to which I shall further allude when speaking of Auckland. Wool as well as timber is fast becoming a valuable export in most provinces, and the merchants who trade in it increase the value of their transactions, by supplying the various stations with clothes, provisions, tobacco, &c. Sawn timber has been fetching from 18s to 25s a hundred feet. The brick trade is carried on with success in Auckland and Wellington, where they have been realising from £4 10s to £7 a thousand for the last four years. Brickmakers are much wanted. At New Plymouth, bricks are selling at from £12 to £20 a thousand. People emigrating to engage in trade, without a previous knowledge of colonial requirements, should rather take out money than goods. The markets vary so much, that it would not be safe to invest largely prior to leaving home.

It would also be well for people of small capital, unacquainted with colonial trade, to attach themselves to some old house, prior to engaging in trade on their own account.

Those who arrive in the colony without capital will, if they enjoy good health, are sober and economical in their personal expenses, and are able and willing to work at any one trade, as farm servants, boatmen, shepherds, or house servants, soon realise a sufficient capital to invest in land, cattle or sheep, and thus to render themselves and their children independent.

Carpenters, brick-makers, stone-masons, shinglers and boat builders, have been able to earn for the last four years at from 10s to 15s a day, sawyers at from 12s to 20s, ploughmen (much wanted) about 10s a day, and able labourers at from 6s to 10s. Good house and hotel servants readily obtain from £640 to £60 per annum; women servants of all sorts are well paid and many are required.

Those who are least able to earn a comfortable livelihood in a new colony are clerks, and young men who have been brought up in idleness at home. Officers of the army, who have only served at home, would in most instances do badly in the colonies.

Officers of the army who have been much abroad, and officers of the navy frequently make good colonists. As the prices of different labour often vary, those who are known as handy men, i.e. those who can knock up a farm building, who know something of cattle, the dairy, and sheep, who can turn their hand to ploughing, ditching, &c. are certain to do well; if an emigrant does not know a little of all these, the sooner he learns the better.

Having made these general prefatory remarks, I will proceed to give an account of the climate, constitution, nature of the soil, and state of society of the Colony.

CHAPTER I. THE COLONY.

THE

NEW ZEALAND SETTLER'S GUIDE.

CHAPTER I.

THE COLONY.

THE colony of New Zealand, consists of three Islands, situated between the 34 deg. and 48 deg. of south latitude; these Islands, known as the Northern, Middle, and Southern Islands, have been by act of Parliament divided into six Provinces; of which Auckland, New Plymouth (or Taranaki) and Wellington are in the Northern; Nelson, Canterbury, and Otago in the Middle Island. The Southern, or Stewart's Island is insignificant, containing only about one million acres. The climate of the Islands, generally very healthy, is more equal and agreeable in the provinces of Auckland and Nelson, and on the east coast of the Northern Island, than in the other settlements.

New Plymouth, Canterbury, and Wellington (in particular) are subject to high winds; while Otago, by an occasional frost and fall of snow, and it is said now

and then the suspicion of a fog, reminds its settlers of the comforts of such phenomena at home.

From my own observation, I consider the climate of any part of New Zealand, superior to the most salubrious parts of Australia. From what I have gathered from books and personal inquiry, I do not believe the climate of the Cape, or any part of our American Colonies, can be compared with that of New Zealand. Indeed I may venture to say, that the climate of New Zealand is more suited to animal and vegetable life than the climate of any colony of the British Empire, Tasmania perhaps excepted, which Island, had it never been a penal settlement, would rank with New Zealand as an Englishman's home.

While considering the effect of the New Zealand climate on the European constitution, I cannot do better than quote from Mr. Swainson's " Auckland," the medical returns, made by Dr. Thomson of the 58th Regiment; the results being gathered from two years careful observation of the effect of the climate upon the health of two thousand soldiers, quartered in New Zealand.

As the men were located in all parts of the Northern Island, these returns and the comparative observations formed upon them, and similar medical returns kept at other military stations, will allow a fair estimate to be formed of the comparative healthfulness of the Islands in general.

From these tables it appears, that for a similar

space of time, to every thousand men, twice as many were admitted into hospital in England as in New Zealand, while the mortality of those admitted was about eight and a half in New Zealand to fourteen in England. Of fever cases there are six times as many in England as in New Zealand; and of 47 cases only one resulted in death in New Zealand; of pectoral or lung diseases, three cases were admitted into hospital in Great Britain to one in New Zealand; out of an equal number admitted in either country, seven terminated fatally in Great Britain to four in New Zealand. Bowel complaints are more prevalent by half in Great Britain than in New Zealand. Brain and liver diseases are nearly the same in the two countries. Complaints of the eye appear to be more numerous in New Zealand; but I consider that this was brought by the troops from Sydney, and that it could not be easily eradicated in a crowded barrack, as the disease was prevalent only amongst the military.

Comparing New Zealand with foreign stations, it appears that the comparison is greatly in favour of New Zealand.

With regard to pulmonary diseases, there are in Malta two cases for one in New Zealand. In the Ionian Islands there are three cases to two in New Zealand. At the Cape of Good Hope there are five cases for three in New Zealand. In the Mauritius there are the fewest number of cases treated after New Zealand, the proportion being about four in the Mauritius to

three in New Zealand, but the mortality is twice as great in the Mauritius.

In Australia pectoral diseases are twice as numerous, and twice as fatal as in New Zealand.

STATIONS. | Annual ratio of Mortality per 1000 among the Troops from all Diseases at | No. of Men attacked annually out of 1000 by Pectoral Complaints. | Average Number of Deaths out of 1000 Men during a year from Pectoral Diseases.
Malta | 18 | 120 | 6.0
Ionian Islands | 28 | 90 | 4.0
Bermuda | 30 | 126 | 8.7
Canada | 20 | 148 | 6.7
Gibraltar | 22 | 141 | 5.3
Cape of Good Hope | 15 | 98 | 3.0
Mauritius | 30 | 84 | 5.6
Australia | 11 | 133 | 5.8
New Zealand | 8 1/4 | 60 | 2.7

Of cases of fever there are five in Malta, the Cape, and Australia, to one in New Zealand. Of liver complaints there are two cases in the before-mentioned places to one in New Zealand.

Prom the same returns it appears, that fevers, liver complaints, and diseases of the stomach and bowels, are much more numerous and fatal at the Cape, Malta, and Australia, than in New Zealand.

In proof of the favourable influence of the climate on human life, I may mention that I have frequently, within the last four or five years, conversed

with a native of the Province of Auckland, named Tanewa, or Hooknose, who remembered Captain Cook. Tanewa was accustomed to relate to "his friends, the Europeans," how that celebrated navigator pleased him as a child by patting him on the head, and that "his love was very great" for the Pakeha (English) ever since.

Summer is much longer in New Zealand than in England, although scarcely ever warmer, the nights are always cool and refreshing. Spring and autumn are warmer than in England, and the coldest day in winter is not colder than an English autumnal day. The winds in spring and autumn are occasionally disagreeable, and the rain is as plentiful during the year as in Great Britain.

There is neither snow nor frost to delay agricultural pursuits. Ploughing can be carried on through the year, and sowing through the greater part of it. Grain crops are generally got in during autumn grass may be sown during the autumn and spring quarters; the autumn sowing is thought the safest.

Potatoes are planted in spring, but I believe with proper care they might be set during the whole year, and that autumn planting would answer well if the sets were put in deep enough. I draw this conclusion from what I have seen of the self-sown roots. The seasons are the reverse of those in England; spring commences in September, summer in December, autumn in April, and winter in June.

In the summer a calm commonly prevails until about 10 or 11 o'clock in the morning, the heat is then moderated by a sea breeze, which usually dies away at sunset.

Fruits, flowers, and vegetables thrive well. Figs, peaches (even as standard trees), grapes, and melons ripen in the open air. Strawberries, cherries, apples, plums, peaches, and nectarines do well in most parts of New Zealand. But gooseberries and currants do best in the south, and at New Plymouth. The peaches, when carefully cultivated, are equal in flavour to any grown in England.

The growth of grass is scarcely ever checked by winter cold. Geraniums, stocks, verbenas, and other flowers may be seen to blow during the coldest seasons.

The change in the weather from month to month is very gradual. The climate is suited to horses, sheep, cattle, and poultry. The increase of sheep is reckoned to average 90 per cent., while the deaths are below one per cent. Where there is bush for shelter, horses and cattle will do well through the year without stable or shed. Horses and cattle imported from Australia generally thrive well with the change of climate, where they are sufficiently fed; and if the breed be judiciously crossed the stock greatly improves. Eventually New Zealand will compete with Australia in rearing horses for the Indian market.

Few countries possess a greater variety of soil than these islands.

In the same district may be found volcanic, alluvial, stiff and light clay, and sandy soil, each description within a short distance of that of the most opposite nature. As I purpose more carefully to refer to the climate and soil, in separate chapters on the several provinces, I will only at present observe, that it behoves settlers who may desire to farm to be careful how they select their allotments. Stiff clay lands may be well suited to those who have capital, but to a man of small means, I would recommend the volcanic and light soils, as more calculated to yield immediate money returns, with which to carry on farming operations. Flax and swamp lands are often of a rich nature, but require considerable outlay in draining. With regard to bush land, it is considered to be good where the growth of timber is large; the growth of kauri pine, however, usually indicates a poor soil.

Bush land, when cleared, yields a better crop the first year than fern land: the fern land requires a summer fallow to sweeten.

When convenient to a township, it pays to clear bush land, in other situations a settler would do best not to select more than one-third of bush land; firewood, posts and rails are dear, and unless on a man's own property, form a considerable item in farming expenses. The bush is also useful for protection and food for cattle.

Where wood and raupo are convenient, the emigrant does well to build a first house of raupo, a sort

of swamp flag, and unsawn wood. Natives may often be found to erect a good bouse of this sort for from £20 to £30, which, if well thatched with reeds, will last for seven or eight years.

Emigrants' outfits can be obtained at the shortest notice at Messrs. Silver's, 3 and 4, Bishopsgate Street Within. Agricultural implements and machines of the best description are provided at Twallin and Co.'s, 117, Bishopsgate Street, by whom a most useful wheat-mill and flour-dressing machine has been introduced. Blackwell, 259, Oxford Street, may be depended on for supplying saddlery of a superior quality.

CHAPTER II. CONSTITUTION.

CHAPTER II.
CONSTITUTION.

I SHALL now proceed to sketch the Constitution, in doing which I hope to be able to shew the action it has had, and is likely to have, on the interests of the colony.

Laws connected with the welfare of the colony at large are enacted by a General Assembly, which consists of a Governor, appointed by the Queen, a House of Representatives, elected by the people; and a Legislative Council, nominated by the Governor. The Governor has the power of calling together, of proroguing, and dissolving the House of Representatives. The House must be dissolved at least every five years. The members of the Legislative Council are appointed by the Governor for life. The House of Representatives is composed of 37 members, and the Legislative Council of 10 members.

The members are allowed to vote a sum of money for their expenses; they have, I believe, as yet received £1 1s a-day, while assembled. They are usually assembled at Auckland once a year, for from two to three months at a sitting.

The business of Government is carried on by an Executive Council, selected by the Governor, but like Her Majesty's Ministers, responsible to the House. They have to retire from office, unless they can command a majority of the House.

The Governor may appoint any number of persons to his Council, but only three, viz. the Colonial Secretary, Colonial Treasurer, and Attorney-General, receive salaries, which are about £800 or .£900 per annum each.

The Governor alone has power to make laws connected with the natives; in other matters the General Assembly makes laws for the peace, order, and good government of the colony, provided always that no such laws shall be repugnant to the laws of England.

The Governor may assent to, refuse, or reserve bills.

In addition to the General Government, each province has its own Superintendent and Council, elected by the people. Provincial Councils vote such salary as they please for their Superintendents. Their salaries have varied from £350 to £800 per annum.

To qualify a man to be registered for a vote at elections, or to hold a seat in either General or Provincial Governments, it is necessary that he should be twenty-one years of age. He should have held a freehold estate within the district of the value of £50, for at least six calendar months next before the last registration of the electors, or a leasehold estate for three years, of the clear annual value of £10, or shall have resided

within any town for six months, in a house of the annual value of £10, or without the town of the annual value of £5.

All such persons are also qualified to be elected Members of Council – Provincial Councils are elected for four years, unless the Governor dissolve them sooner. Councils are convened and prorogued by their own Superintendents; but a session must be held once a year.

Provincial Councils pass bills regulating Provincial expenditure, sale of land, &c.; such bills are, if assented to by the Superintendent, to be sent for approval or rejection to the Governor.

Each Council, whether of the General or Provincial Governments, is presided over by a Speaker, whose appointment depends on a vote of the House, over which he is to preside. The Speaker of the Legislative Council is, however, appointed by the Governor.

This Constitution came into force in 1853. Valuable, however, as it may ultimately prove, we must confess, that up to the present time it has not worked well. The members of the General Assembly have wasted much valuable time in paltry squabbles about the seat of Government, and in bringing local jealousies before the General Assembly, while little has been done to open the country, and connect the Provinces by roads, to carry out efficient postal communications, and to facilitate the removal of stock from one district to another. Too much attention has been paid to Provin-

cial politics, too little attention has been given to Public works. The land regulations in all the provinces have been more or less complicated, sometimes to such an extent as even to drive good settlers away from the islands altogether, while many have been deterred from joining a colony, from the serious accounts thus received of the unsatisfactory arrangements which had ruined those who had preceded them. Had Sir George Grey's land regulations been fairly carried out by the colony at large, I believe each province would now be in a far more flourishing position.

Responsible Government, however, as it affords a fair opening to men of talent and independent spirit to occupy a prominent position, will eventually benefit the colony. The form of Government was introduced by the talented Edward Gibbon Wakefield, in whose hands it had been intrusted by the southern majority. 1 The members of the majority (after the bill had been conditionally approved of by Colonel Wynyard, the officer administering the Government,) displayed a jealousy towards Mr. Wakefield, which they vented upon Colonel Wynyard, for taking counsel of the man by whom their favourite measure had been introduced. The first session was wasted in words, and the following session has been of little more benefit to the country than the first. As the system of Government becomes generally understood, electors will be

more careful to whom they give their votes, and see that their members, rather seek to carry out public works, than to waste the time of the House in long and unprofitable speeches.

I have said sufficient on the subject to make known that though difficult to work, the constitution is most liberal, and affords every inducement to lawyers and men of talent to offer their services to the country. The only grievance of which the colony has to complain, is inefficient postal arrangement. New Zealand has, in common with the Australian group, suffered considerable inconvenience and annoyance on this head; indeed, the Australian group has, ever since the war broke out, been treated with injudicious neglect by the Home Government. In common with England and the other colonies, New Zealand suffers, of course, from the grievous, unjust, and impolitic nature of the English marriage laws, and laws of divorce. And as local legislation cannot interfere in these laws, the poor man, injured by his wife, must remain without redress; the rich man must pay heavily for what the Bible rules he should obtain without payment; and woman must grieve in vain over her wrongs, and bear desertion in silence.

From the beginning of the war the mails have been carried by sailing vessels, which have averaged about 84 days on their voyage to Melbourne. The mail is now transmitted by steam, but not by the most direct line, or by sufficiently powerful steamers, such as

should be employed in the service of England's most important colonies. The mail might be transmitted via Marseilles, the Red Sea, and Diego Garcia, at the rate of twelve knots an hour, in about 38 days from London to Melbourne.

The imports of the Australian group and New Zealand amount to about 30 millions per annum. When this is considered in connection with the eight or ten millions of gold annually forwarded home, it is not too much to expect that a direct and separate postal communication should be established with these colonies. As a steamer runs every month between Auckland and Sydney, should either the Panama or the overland and Diego Garcia route be established efficiently, it will bring New Zealand within about 46 days of England.

The best mail route for Auckland, Sydney, and Moreton Bay would, it is considered generally, be by Panama, thence to one of the northern ports of New Zealand, either Auckland, Wangaroa, or the Middle Harbour of the Great Barrier Island; from either of these excellent harbour(where the steamer could coal and return to Panama), the mails might be forwarded to Sydney and Moreton Bay. A steamer, the William Denny, already runs between Auckland and Sydney, and another steamer should be provided for Moreton Bay.

After what has been said on the constitution, intending emigrants will see the advantage of getting

their names registered in the Electoral Lists, at the earliest opportunity possible after their arrival, and that they should do their utmost (all private feeling being set aside) to elect such men as will serve the interests of the colony and provinces with zeal and ability; men who will not waste the public time in useless speeches, but who will, laying aside local jealousy, unite with one another in schemes to enforce, with the Australian colonies, such postal arrangements as will most benefit the colony – men who will carry out practical land regulations, improve the towns with wharfs, and open up the country by roads and bridges. The towns can never become rich till the country be occupied, stocked and cultivated. To facilitate this, bridges must be built, causeways constructed through the swamps, and roads made.

Legislation, to attain the desired results, must pull one way, and seek to induce the natives to pull the same way too. A native committee should be assembled whenever the General Assembly meets, to talk over these matters together. The natives should be allowed to select Chiefs for this purpose, who should be paid by Government. The roads cannot be carried through the country without the consent and assistance of the natives, who own the greater half of the Northern Island. The land question, laws of the country, and disputed points, could at these committees be talked over with advantage to both races. Till this be done, the House of Assembly will be little

better than a debating society, kept up at considerable expense to the country. Once in three years ought to be often enough for the General Assembly to meet; there are few settlers sufficiently independent to allow its members to meet more frequently.

The native committee might after a time be dispensed with, as the natives would soon understand our ' form of government, would generally register for votes, and elect their own members. As orators and practical men, the natives are at least equal to the majority of our own members of Council.

I have said, perhaps, on these points more than enough for those who are only thinking of emigration; but all who go to New Zealand will be called upon to consider, and the sooner they do consider these matters the better, as by previous unbiassed reflection, many an one may be taught the value of a vote, and that it is not to be given as a matter of course to the first friend who asks it, either for himself or for another.

1 A majority of the members of the southern provinces.

CHAPTER III. SOCIAL CONDITION – AMUSEMENTS – FISHING – SHOOTING.

CHAPTER III.
SOCIAL CONDITION – AMUSEMENTS – FISHING – SHOOTING.

THE only remaining point to which I have alluded as a chief matter for consideration by those who are thinking of emigrating, is the social condition of a colony. As the different settlements are composed of very dissimilar materials, they are very unlike each other in much that relates to social and domestic life. This will be gathered from my after pages on the several provinces. It may save time, however, to say here, that in colonial life, generally, there is less formality, and more freedom than will be found in England. Acquaintances are more readily made, and, perhaps, sooner lost sight of than at home. Houses are freely opened for the use of friends, and travellers are welcomed with kindness without display. It is readily seen by a stranger that he is invited to a house to be convenienced himself, not that he may envy the wealth, &c. of his entertainer.

Hitherto New Zealand colonists have generally been contented to live in a frugal manner, and have not attempted to imitate the extravagance of the old

country, or of the towns in the neighbouring colonies. The necessaries of life are generally plentiful in the homes of all, while superfluous luxuries are hardly to be found in any.

Public amusements are not numerous; occasionally a company of players or musicians 2 will visit the different settlements, and remain for a few weeks. Most towns have mechanics' institutes, where lectures are given and libraries opened to the public. Amateur musical societies are formed at most settlements.

There is no State-Church, and there are no church bickerings. It often happens that Christians of all denominations, as well as Jews, are called upon by each to subscribe to the other's schools and churches, while the children of one religion are not unfrequently sent to schools presided over by masters of another persuasion. Religious animosity is not felt; man is content to let his fellow-man alone in religious matters. Christian and Jew, Churchman and Dissenter, English and Irish, meet one another with mutual good-will and Christian forbearance. Most of the settlements, originally class settlements, are throwing off class exclusiveness. For instance, Canterbury, a settlement organised on Church of

England principles, has since its formation received upwards of 1000 people of other denominations, and its Superintendent and many of its Provincial Officers are Irish.

All the settlements have their own newspapers, which are generally well conducted, although rival editors occasionally indulge rather freely in political abuse of each other.

New Zealand offers little inducement to sportsmen. There is no hunting, and only wild ducks, curlews, pigeons, kakas, and pukekos supply the place of game. In the Middle Island, I understand there are quail, on which account alone would pointers or setters be found useful. Pheasants have been introduced, and it is said, have done well about Monganui, where one gentleman reckons he ought to have upwards of 1000 birds in his domain, and these birds are spreading through the bush. Rabbits do not generally thrive well, when turned, out, owing to hawks and bush-fires.

Fishing is a useful amusement, and hand-line and net fishing are much resorted to, chiefly in the sea and salt water creeks and bays. There are a few fresh water fish, however: amongst them may be mentioned eels (tuna), the hoko, somewhat resembling the eel, but much shorter in proportion to its thickness than the eel. White bait are numerous in many of the streams, and lampreys are at times to be taken in great numbers.

In the salt water are to be found several sorts of flat fish, the most common of which, similar to the English sole in flavour, is named the patiki (pron. pateky). This fish is taken in nets, or speared on mud fiats, or in shallow sandy bays. The mullet, the kahawai (rather like mackerel), the tamure (or snapper), a large fish not unlike a bream, but superior in flavour, the moki (or rock cod), and the guard fish, a fish with a long beak of the smelt kind, are amongst the fish mostly brought to market.

In some parts of the colony, oysters, pipis, crawfish, and other shellfish are plentiful.

The Hapuku 3 is the richest and finest fish taken about the New Zealand coast; its head much resembles that of the cod, only it is larger, and far superior in flavour. The Hapuku is generally found in deep water near abrupt rocks. I have seen them taken at the Barrier Island upwards of 100 lbs. in weight. For more critical information on the birds and fish of the colony, I refer my readers to a work published at 24, Paternoster Row, by the Rev. Richard Taylor, of Wanganui.

The old English game of cricket is kept up with spirit in New Zealand; numerous matches are made through a great part of the year.

Most of the settlements have public billiard tables, and those who are fond of a rubber, or chess, will generally be able to indulge in either game.

Races produce their excitement at least once a year in each settlement; tolerable purses are given, and I believe all the horses run to win. Colonial horses have less speed, but more truth than their sires at home.

Those who are fond of change of air have many interesting scenes to visit; noble forests, rivers, lakes, hot springs and limestone caves offer many inducements to the traveller.

Travelling may perhaps be found tedious to those who have been accustomed to railroads and grand hotels, as they will have to move slowly with native bearers on foot, and canoes, whose living propellers generally go their own pace, and stop whenever they like; while in place of the hearty welcome at the inn, gentlemen will have generally to put up with a tent or native hut, in which they will be heartily welcomed by fleas instead of landlords; the traveller will be called on by "mine host" to pay his bill at night instead of in the morning, when sandflies usually relieve the fleas and mosquitoes in their obsequious attention. Strangers should get some friend acquainted with the language and country to accompany them on their first wanderings, and ought to provide themselves with a tomahawk, 4 tin kettle, frying-pan, stew-pan, and tin pots; and tent, candles, matches, blankets, tobacco, pipes, and rice, flour,

biscuit, bacon, tea, sugar, &c. according to the proposed length of the journey. The natives should be engaged for the journey out and home, with a written agreement that they are only to be paid on their return. No people in our colonies are more out of place than ladies, who care for other than home and rural amusements; the wife must be, as she was originally intended to be, the helpmate to the husband. The nursery, dairy, kitchen and garden will afford sufficient amusement to those wives who desire to make home such as our English homes ought to be.

Emigrants who can provide themselves with suitable wives will be more comfortable, and more likely to succeed than bachelors. Few English ladies, however, of the present day are formed for colonial life; many of them would prove an incumbrance to a man in a new country rather than a blessing. There are some few ladies, however, who can enjoy the freedom of the bush, and who would not change their wild garden and rough home for all the luxuries of artificial society. I know one lady, the widow of an officer, who has for some time managed a large station with success in the Canterbury district, and it is said she is more than contented with her lot. A lady must know how to be her own housekeeper, and not be above occasionally being her own cook, or she may have now and then to go without dinner.

Sketching and collecting shells and ferns are amongst the pursuits open to women in New Zealand.

The forests are rich in ferns, and many an hour may be passed in collecting them.

There are well-conducted schools at all the settlements, where reading, writing, history, &c. are taught. The Wesleyan College at Auckland is considered a good classical school; boys who are intended to lead a rural life in the colonies may obtain sufficient education at Auckland, Nelson, or Canterbury, but those who are to finish their education at college, previous to joining a profession, had better be sent home at an early age. The necessity for this will probably be soon obviated, as it is said a first class grammar school will shortly be opened by Bishop Selwin at Auckland. Such a school, conducted by able masters, would be much resorted to by boys whose parents reside in the neighbouring colonies. The healthy climate of Auckland would much better suit children than either Sydney or Melbourne.

Regarding the social condition of the natives, it may be observed, that the Missionaries have in general laboured hard, and have met with more success than might have been expected, considering the difficulties with which they have had to contend. Twenty mission stations have been formed; 6,809 natives have been received as communicants, and the greater part of the Maories have acknowledged the influence of the Christian Church. The schools are numerously attended by men, women, and children of all ages. At districts out of reach of mission schools, numbers

have been instructed by those who have attended distant schools. I believe a large proportion of the Maories are acquainted with the rudiments of reading, writing, and arithmetic. The Maories soon make skilful artisans, and trade much with the Europeans, from whom they readily obtain credit. They are naturally a sober people, and that they may continue so, a law has been passed to prohibit publicans from selling spirits to natives; this law has not been efficiently carried out, and has, I believe, induced many to drink, who would only for the law have grudged spending their money to their own injury.

At Melbourne, where many of the Maories have been working at the gold-fields, where no law prohibits them the enjoyment of spirits, I have heard it stated that they are generally very sober, at all events, more so than in New Zealand. Like many of ourselves, they would perhaps act against their own inclination to break a law they consider unjust.

2 The musicians are a very varied order. We have had a Turk, the celebrated Ali Ben Suali, who charmed many of the English natives with his performance. There are some German brass bands, and two companies exhibiting equestrian feats have visited these lands.

3 Pronounced Habooka, or Wabooka.

4 The tomahawk, which somewhat resembles a short axe, is requisite for cutting firewood.

CHAPTER IV. GENERAL SUMMARY OF SOCIAL CONDITION AND DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

CHAPTER IV.

GENERAL SUMMARY OF SOCIAL CONDITION AND DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

IN conclusion to my sketch of the social condition of the colony, I shall offer a few extracts from an official letter written in 1849 by His Excellency Sir George Grey, one of the most able men by whom the Government of New Zealand, or of any other colony, has ever been administered. Some increase has taken place in the numbers of the Europeans, and inter-provincial communication has been extended, in all other respects the statements of this letter apply to the present condition of the colony : –

"1. The group of colonies comprised in the New Zealand Islands, are composed at present of what may be termed nine principal European settlements, besides smaller dependencies. These settlements are scattered over a distance of about 900 miles of latitude; they are separated from each other by wide intervals, and communication even for persons on horseback exists only between three of them. Their inhabitants are chiefly British subjects, but there are amongst them many Americans, French, and Germans.

The majority of them have never been trained to arms. The settlers both in the main colonies and the subordinate dependencies have occupied the country in so scattered and irregular a manner, that it would be found impossible to afford them efficient protection; they are generally without arms, and would probably be deprived of them by the aboriginal population, if they possessed them at any remote stations.

"2. The wide intervals between these European colonies are occupied by a native race, estimated to consist of one hundred and twenty thousand (120,000) souls, a very large proportion of whom are males capable of bearing arms. These natives are generally armed with rifles or double-barrelled guns; they are skilled in the use of their weapons, and take great care of them; they are addicted to war, have repeatedly in encounters with our troops been reported by our own officers to be equal to any European troops, and are such good tacticians that we have never succeeded in bringing them to a decisive encounter, they having always availed themselves of the advantage afforded by their wilds and fastnesses; their armed bodies move without any baggage, and are attended by the women, who carry potatoes on their backs for the warriors, or subsist them by digging fern root, so that they are wholly independent of supplies, and can move and subsist their forces in countries where our troops cannot live.

"3. In a military point of view there is no analogy

between the North American Indians and the natives of New Zealand. The Maories, both in weapons and knowledge of the art of war, a skill in planning and perseverance in carrying out the operations of a lengthened campaign, being infinitely superior to the American Indians. In fact, there can be no doubt that they are for warfare in this country even better equipped than our own troops.

"4. These natives, from the positions which they occupy, between all the settlements, can choose their own points of attack, and might even so mislead the most wary Government as to their intended operations, as to render it difficult to tell at what point they intended to make a blow. They can move their forces with rapidity and secrecy from one point of the country to another; whilst, from the general absence of roads, the impassable nature of the country, and the utter want of supplies, it is impossible (except in the case of some of the settlements where good roads have been constructed) to move a European force more than a few miles into the interior from any settlement.

"5. The natives present little to attack. They have given up building pas or fortifications, and live in scattered villages, which they would not hesitate to abandon. To assist in any national war, there can be little doubt that almost every village would pour forth its chiefs and its population.

"6. The native interest, however, is too much bound,

up with the Europeans to allow them to desire war, unless they should be treated with injustice. Nearly the whole nation has been converted to Christianity. They are fond of agriculture; take great pleasure in horses; form good sailors; have many coasting vessels of their own manned with Maori crews; are attached to Europeans, and admire their customs and manners; are extremely ambitious of rising in civilization, and of becoming skilled in European arts; they are apt at learning; in many respects extremely conscientious, and observant of their word, are ambitious of honour, and are probably the most covetous race in the world. They are agreeable in manners, and attachments of a lasting character readily and frequently spring up between them and the Europeans; many of them have also now, from their property, a stake in the welfare of the country; one chief has, besides valuable property of various kinds, upwards of £500 invested in Government securities; several others have also sums of from £200 to £400 invested in the same securities.

"7. A consideration of these circumstances will, I think, lead to the conclusion, that any attempt to form, in those portions of these islands which are densely peopled by the natives, an ordinary European settlement, the inhabitants of which produced all they required, and were wholly independent of the native race, must end in failure. The natives in the vicinity of such a settlement (finding themselves excluded from all community of interest with its inhabitants) would

soon put themselves in opposition to its interests – upon the other hand, however, it would appear that a race such as has been described, would be easily incorporated into any British settlement, with mutual advantage to both races – the natives supplying agricultural produce, poultry, pigs, and labour; whilst, on the other hand, the Europeans would supply the various manufactured goods required by the natives, and provide for the wants created by civilization. Such a class of settlements might easily grow into prosperous communities, into which natives, with characters softened by Christianity, civilization, and a taste for previous unknown luxuries, would readily be absorbed. This process of the incorporation of the native population into the European settlements, has accordingly for the last few years been taking place with a rapidity unexampled in history. Unless some sudden and unforeseen cause of interruption should occur, it will still proceed, and a few years of continued peace and prosperity would suffice for the entire fusion of the two races into one nation.

"8. These observations on the present relative position of the European and native populations of these islands, apply principally to the Northern Island, the Maori population in the Middle Island is so small as to be of no account.

"9. In considering the geographical and political positions in relation to each other of the several settlements occupying the Northern Island, it may be

stated, that the centre of that island is occupied by a mountain range, the highest point of which is probably about 10,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is covered with perpetual snow, having as one of its peaks a volcano of boiling water. The snows which cover this range form perpetual springs, from which rivers of cold and pure water are thrown off in all directions to the coast; whilst the volcano in the same range constitutes a fountain of perpetual supply to two nearly continuous chains of boiling springs, which run from the mountain range to the north-eastern coast of the island.

"10. The central mountain range throws off also spurs or ridges of very difficult mountainous country in various directions to the coast, the valleys between these ridges, generally mere gorges at the hills, become fertile and extensive plains near the coast, and form the channels of the Thames, the Waikato, the Mokau, the Wanganui, the Rangitikei, and other minor streams. These subsidiary mountain ridges or spurs thrown from the main range are, for the most part, where roads have not been constructed across them, impassable, even for horses; so that no overland communication, except for foot passengers, can be considered as yet existing between the several principal settlements.

"11. In the plains in the Northern Island through which the rivers above named flow, and at the points where the coast-line indents these plains with road-

steads or harbours, are situated the principal European settlements; whilst the Maori population inhabit the central mountain range, or are distributed in small villages scattered along the fertile banks of the rivers, from their sources to their junction with the sea, or occupy in small communities the coast-line which intervenes between the several European settlements. "Each settlement has also now attracted to its vicinity, or contains mixed up with its white inhabitants, a considerable Maori population. In these cases both races already form one harmonious community, connected together by commercial and agricultural pursuits. They profess the same faith; resort to the same courts of justice; join in the same public sports; stand mutually and indifferently to each other in the relation of landlord and tenant, and are insensibly forming one people. Each day also, as the European settlements spread along the coast, or towards the interior, a large number of Maories are weaned from barbarism, and are adopted into a civilized community. The danger of any general outbreak on their part, therefore, daily decreases; and there seems no reason why a population which so readily assimilates may not be gradually, and by prudent measures, brought under one form of constitutional government, which might equally foster and promote the really common interests of both races, if those of the ruder race be first taught to resort for the settlement of their disputes to courts of judicature expressly adapted to their present state,

and be by degrees trained to the exercise of simple municipal duties.

"12. The Middle Island may be said to be traversed by a mountain range, which, commencing at its northeast extremity, where it almost abuts on the coast, runs in nearly an east and west line across the country to the west coast, along which coast it continues uninterruptedly, but increasing in elevation, till it reaches the south-west corner of the island. To the westward this range falls abruptly into the sea, leaving, generally, but a narrow strip of fertile land between its base and the sea coast; whilst, although it falls in the same abrupt manner on its eastern side, fertile plains of immense extent intervene on that side between the base of the mountain range and the sea. Numerous rivers of considerable width, subject to sudden floods, flow from these ranges.

"13. In the Middle Island overland communication is even more difficult on account of its rivers than in the Northern Island. The inconsiderable native population in the Middle Island is principally located in the vicinity of the several European settlements.

"14. Each of the chief towns carries on an independent trade with the Australian Colonies and with Great Britain, and hardly any interchange of commerce takes place between them, since they at present all produce nearly the same commodities, and require the same kind of supplies, which they naturally seek at the cheapest mart; whilst the cost of transport from a

port in the Australian Colonies does not exceed the corresponding charges from a port in New Zealand.

"15. It must be clear that between colonies so constituted, little of what may be termed community of interest can be said to exist, and any attempt therefore to form a general Legislature for such a group of colonies, which should at present annually, or even frequently assemble, and which should be so composed as fairly to represent the various interests of all parts of this country, must, I think, fail, because there are as yet no persons in these islands who have the means or leisure to enable them to abandon their own affairs every year, for the purpose of resorting to another colony, there to discharge their senatorial duties.

"16. It may be therefore assumed that a general Legislature, which should be required frequently to assemble, should form no part of any plan of institutions to be conferred upon such, a group of colonies; although for some purposes a general Legislature is even now necessary, and will hereafter be still more necessary if these islands are to form, as is greatly to be desired, one large and prosperous country."

Since the description thus given was written, the country has been more opened by roads; but these roads have only been imperfectly carried out in detached portions. Main roads between Auckland, Taranaki and Wellington are required, also between Auckland and the Northern settlements – and the settlements of the Middle Island still remain imperfectly connected by roads.

CHAPTER V. PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND...

CHAPTER V.

PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND, EASTERN COAST, HARBOURS AND RIVERS.

I SHALL endeavour to supply such further particulars as I deem wanting in the following chapters, on the geographical description, history and land regulations of the six provinces.

Auckland, the northern province of the Northern Island, the most flourishing and advanced of all the provinces, is bounded on the north by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto – on the east by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto – on the west by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto – on the south by the river Mokau to its source, thence by a right line running from the source of the Mokau to the point where the Ngahuinga or Tuhua, the principal tributary of the Wanganui river is intersected by the 39th parallel of south latitude, thence eastward by the 39th parallel of south latitude to the point where that parallel of latitude cuts the east coast of the Northern Island of New Zealand.

The province of Auckland returns twelve members to the General Assembly.

The province is divided into six electoral districts, viz. – the city of Auckland which returns six members;

the suburbs of Auckland which return four members; the Pensioner Settlements which return four members; the northern division which returns four members; the southern division which returns four members; and the Bay of Islands which returns four members – in all twenty-six members for a Provincial Council.

The city of Auckland, the capital of New Zealand, is situated on an isthmus of land about six miles across, this isthmus divides the Waitemata 5 harbour from the Manukao harbour; the Waitemata being by far the most available harbour on the east coast, while the Manukao is the safest and most accessible on the west. Thus Auckland, like Corinth, commands two harbours; and the whole interior of the province is connected with these harbours by numerous rivers, of which the Thames and Piako connect the Waitemata with upwards of 100 miles of country, while the Waikato and Waipa supply the Manukao with produce received from a distance of upwards of 120 miles. These noble rivers, running nearly parallel to each other in a southerly direction, offer water communication, not to be surpassed, for the conveyance of agricultural produce and timber.

The land along the banks of these rivers is generally rich alluvial land, well suited, when laid down in grass, for the feed of cattle, or for the cultivation of wheat, potatoes, oats, maize, green crops, and fruit trees.

These rivers are well supplied with wood, but not so overstocked with it as to impede agricultural pursuits; on the Waikato coal has been found in abundance – I have seen it used at the Rev Mr. Ashwell's Church Mission house.

At the head of either river, a day or two's journey will bring a foot traveller to grassy plains offering good natural pasturage for sheep or cattle. Between the Waipa, and west coast on one side, and between the Waipa and lake districts of Taupo, Rotorua, and Rotomahana, I have walked over much grass country. The nature of the subsoil between Waipa and Mokau, and for a considerable distance along the west coast, being composed generally of limestone, is well calculated to preserve sheep free from foot-rot, while the undulating nature of the land affords them secure protection from the weather. The land on the Thames is generally moist, and more suited to cattle than sheep, that on the Piako is much of it suited to sheep or cattle. The natural growth on the banks of this river is generally fern, with a dry soil, excepting near the mouth, where it is swampy. The Thames and Piako enter the Hauraki Gulf, about two miles from each other, at the south end of the gulf; which gulf may be called an outer harbour to the Waitemata, being much protected by the islands of the Great Barrier, Waiheki, Ponui, and the Koromandel line of coast, within which islands are several good harbours and anchorage grounds. These islands have much excellent land and

valuable timber, noble forests of kauri-pine, and other woods enrich the hill range, which, running parallel to the east coast, divides it from the Hauraki Gulf. This range, extending from the Waireri waterfall, at the head of the Thames, to Cape Colvill, at the north point of Koromandel, abounds in quartz, in which gold has been found. This gold, discovered by Messrs. Ring, (whose experience in California led them to seek for a gold field at Koromandel) has not as yet been found in sufficient quantity to induce many to work it. It is thought that whenever the natives allow the range at large to be prospected over, it will be found an available gold field.

Much of the land between the hill range and the Hauraki Gulf, is of good quality, and the natives have well cultivated plantations, from which they supply the markets with fruit, corn, and potatoes. The Piako river falls into the Hauraki Gulf, at the south end of it, after running for some fifty miles parallel to the Waiho or Thames. The island of Waiheki, a fine island about twenty-five miles long, supplies the province with native produce, firewood, posts, and rails.

Most of the land on the Hauraki Gulf, and on the banks of the Thames and Piako, remains in the hands of the natives; as these lands are so available to Auckland, Government should have endeavoured to acquire them long since.

On the Auckland side of the Hauraki Gulf, and between the Waitemata and Piako river, the Tamaki and

Wairoa rivers enter the Hauraki Gulf. The Tamaki, the mouth of which is about five miles from Auckland, connects it with the Pensioner villages of Panmure and Otahuhu, both flourishing settlements, from which much produce is brought to market. The land on the banks of the river Tamaki is mostly laid down with English grasses, and stocked with cattle, the owners of which reap a good harvest from the sale of milk, butter, and cheese. At Panmure, a punt, worked by chains, conveys passengers, horses, and stock to or from Auckland and the Pensioner village of Howick. The land about Panmure and Otahuhu, mostly volcanic, and easily cultivated, has for some years yielded fine crops of potatoes and onions. That of Howick, a stiff clay, has taken more labour, and is better suited to grain crops. The Pensioners of this village have much cattle, and are able to increase their stock from the great extent of open back country. The land around Panmure and Otahuhu is generally fenced in and occupied. Apple trees, peach trees, the hazel nut, and other fruit trees flourish at Howick.

A few miles to the south of the Tamaki is the Wairoa river, where most of the land has been purchased from the natives, and is gradually being occupied by Europeans, in whose hands are much cattle, and by whom firewood and timber is sent to Auckland. The land is said to be generally good, and well calculated to produce grass and grain. On the Coromandel coast is the safe harbour of Coromandel, well supplied

with timber. Here are saw mills and ship-building establishments, at which several smart vessels have been built.

The land on the Waitemata is not generally equal in quality to the land on the rivers before-mentioned, with the exception of the land at the North Head and up Shoal Bay, much of which is of excellent quality. About the North Head (generally volcanic), the land has yielded fine crops, and is from its position of great value.

The land up Shoal Bay (opposite Auckland), situated near the Papuke Lake, is rich in quality, and admirably suited for the cultivation of wheat. The sections of land about this lake, from the beauty of its scenery, are of great value, and are admirably adapted for homesteads for those who have large farms in the northern district, or for merchants who may desire a country residence.

To the north of the North Head are the rivers Okura, Weite (pronounced Wade), the Waiwero, Mahurangi, Matakana, and Wangari, on all of which rivers Government has available land for sale.

The Okura and the Weite rivers which fall into the same bay, about 16 miles from Auckland, offer a harbour at the entrance for ships of 400 or 500 tons, and either river is navigable for boats of 20 tons for seven or eight miles. At the head of the Weite is some heavy flax land, well adapted to the growth of wheat; and a flourishing timber trade has been carried on here for

some years. Many settlers are located on the river, and Maurice Kelly, one of the most hospitable men in the country, is willing to furnish information to emigrants regarding the land open for selection.

Crossing over Wanga Prowa, a long head land, a five mile walk along the coast will bring the traveller to the Waiwero river. On the coast, near this river, are some natural hot springs, said to be efficacious for rheumatic pains and other diseases. The river is beautifully wooded, and the scenery highly picturesque. There are fine kauri forests about this river, and much other valuable timber. The land on one bank only belongs to Europeans. About five or six miles beyond the Waiwero is the Mahurangi, a river navigable for large ships for some miles; the banks of this river are thickly wooded and hilly, but towards the source are situated the Kaipara Flats, where there is some open available land, mostly purchased by Europeans. A few miles beyond the Mahurangi, the Matakana offers several good selections of land for settlers.

Much of the land on all these rivers has been purchased; but, as is the case elsewhere, the greater part by speculators, from whom it may be procured at a moderately increased price. Opposite and a few miles from Matakana, is the island of Kawau, belonging to the Kawau Company. This Company has for some years been working a copper mine; owing to the high price of labour, I believe, the Company is

about to close its work. Some seven miles beyond Matakana is the Bay of Oma, at which I believe Government still retains some good land. Beyond this bay, about 20 miles, is the river Wangari, at which Government has purchased much land, which has been, or shortly will be, open for selection. Wangari is a fine river and has a large settlement of Highlanders and other useful settlers. To those who are in want of a farm, I consider Wangari offers great advantages in the quality of its land, the character of its settlers, and the water-carriage which almost connects the east coast with the rivers of the west side of the island. Some 60 miles from Wangari is the Bay of Islands, where are several European settlements, and a considerable number of natives.-; The land is mostly owned by the families of missionaries and by natives. The Europeans possess large herds of cattle. From hence Auckland receives much of its meat. The natives and Europeans send considerable supplies of potatoes, onions, Indian corn, and fruit to Auckland. A steamer and several coasting vessels are running weekly between Auckland and the Bay. The Bay of Islands, formerly the frequent resort of whalers, has latterly been much deserted by them for the harbour of Monganui, some distance to the north of the Bay. At the latter place a flourishing trade has been established between the whalers and settlers. The harbours at the Bay and Monganui are both excellent, and only require to be sufficiently occupied by settlers to make

the land valuable. A large proportion of the land at the Bay is a stiff clay, hilly, and expensive to work; but between the settlement of Victoria and the Waimati is some excellent alluvial land; this is also the case at some of the small bays and on the numerous rivers which fall into the bay.

The country between Monganui and the North Cape district is little known to Europeans. The harbour, however, of Wangaroa, between Monganui and the North Cape is easy of access, and affords safe anchorage for ships of any burden.

It may be well here to observe, that the harbours of Auckland, the Bay of Islands, Wangaroa, and the Middle Island on the south-west side of the Great Barrier, are all of them easy of access and egress to vessels of any size, that they all have safe anchorage, and are capable of containing any number of ships.

The Great Barrier Island, in a northern line from Cape Colvill, with a wide passage between the two lands, offers on its western side more than one safe harbour, the best of which is, I believe, at Abercrombie Bay, known as the Middle Harbour, about 20 miles from the north end of the island.

Between Abercrombie Bay and the north end of the island is a rich copper mine, which has yielded a high per centage of copper; it has been worked for some years by Messrs. Whitaker and Heal. The island abounds in timber, is well stocked with cattle, and the waters around it are celebrated for their numerous

sorts of fish, amongst which may be mentioned the habuku, the finest fish found in the New Zealand waters.

Between Cape Colvill and the south-east boundary point of the province of Auckland, is a long extent of coast, on which Mercury Bay, Tauranga harbour, Maketu, the Bay of Plenty and Poverty Bay, may be mentioned as all offering fair harbours, for small vessels of from 40 to 50 tons. Of these harbours, I believe Tauranga is the best, and offers a safe anchorage for vessels of 300 tons, or even larger ships. There are inferior stations at Tauranga, and Maketu, and some Europeans are settled in either neighbourhood; but the natives own most of the land, along this line of coast, part of which is exceedingly rich. They also cultivate lands at all the bays and harbours, and own numerous coasting vessels, by means of which they supply Auckland with perhaps more wheat, potatoes, Indian corn, onions, &c. than is brought from any other part of New Zealand.

A good road from Maketu to the lake district, which could easily be made, would open, at small expense, an available sheep district to the province of Auckland, and would also throw open the hot springs about the lakes of Rotorua, Tarawera, Rotomahana, and Taupo. The scenery about these lakes is curious, and much of it highly picturesque. Rotorua, Tarawera and Taupo, are fine lakes, each of which abounds in hot springs, at which the natives are fond of residing, and consider

the hot water baths highly efficacious for many disorders. Of all the hot springs, however, those on Rotomahana are the most curious, and are worth a long journey. Rotomahana 6 is a small lake, and at either end of it on opposite sides, baths are situated, in a succession of natural and beautifully formed steps, which rise from the lake; they are formed of silicate of lime, which, when the sun shines, makes them resemble Parian marble. The water at the top of the steps at boiling heat, decreases in temperature, as it descends the steps to the lake; at the top of the steps a traveller may boil his food, and from about half way down to the bottom, he may enjoy hot baths of any temperature. The steps at the end of the lake nearest Tarawera lake, which is connected with Rotomahana, by a small stream, are of pure white; while those at the opposite end of the lake, have transparent pink lines, intermixed with the white. Besides the steps of hot baths, on one bank of Rotomahana are several jets d'eau 7 of boiling water and mud springs.

The road from Maketu to Rotomahana is good, and only about 35 miles in distance. A mission station is kept at Maketu, by the Rev. Mr. Ashwell, and another at Tarawera, by the Rev. Mr. Spencer; at which stations travellers will meet with every kind-

ness, and gain every information they may require about the country.

A journey of about 25 miles over grass plains will take a traveller from Rotomahana to Taupo the largest lake in the Northern Island, around which and between it and the Waipa river are several fine grassy valleys, well suited for sheep walks.

Scarcely any effort has been made to obtain land in these districts, and unless the Government will allow individuals to make direct arrangements with the natives for the purchase or use of land, the fine districts I have described may remain for years almost unoccupied by Europeans, although sheep runs are required for Auckland; these lake districts and the lands between Taupo and the west coast, and some few islands, are the only lands in the province offering natural grass pasture for sheep.

I may here mention that there has been a considerable quantity of good tobacco grown at Maketu and Rotorua, which, if properly prepared, could command a sale at any market. In New Zealand, where the fern and flax grow thick and high, the land is generally good, and whenever it is sufficiently loose, grass can be readily obtained by burning off the natural growth, and sowing Dutch clover, rye grass, and cock's-foot seed. The cock's-foot does particularly well in the dry weather, and is a very valuable grass. Rye grass, and white clover can generally be procured at Auckland, but the cock's-foot is dear and

often scarce in the market. Though in the first instance much expense occurs, in sowing English grass seeds, yet when sown one acre will feed three or four sheep, whereas on the natural grasses of the country it requires three or four acres to feed one sheep.

From what has been said it will be seen that the eastern harbour of Auckland, the Waitemata harbour, is the centre of a number of excellent harbours and fine rivers; that it is protected from all winds by numerous islands, and a long promontory – the promontory of Koromandel; that the lands on these rivers and islands, are abounding in wood and copper mines; that much of the land is well suited to agricultural purposes; and that, with not much trouble, sheep and cattle may be profitably pastured.

Those who are in search of health will have observed that this eastern half of the province of Auckland offers medical aid of no mean kind in its natural hot baths; while he who desires to travel merely to please a truant disposition, cannot fail to be pleased with a country so abounding in all that constitutes beautiful scenery.

5 Waters of Glass

6 Rotomahana. Roto, lake; Mahana, warm.

7 Some of these jets d'eau, throw the hot water from 20 to 30 feet into the air.

CHAPTER VI. WESTERN COAST, HARBOURS AND RIVERS.

CHAPTER VI.

WESTERN COAST, HARBOURS AND RIVERS.

I WILL now turn to the western harbour, the Manukao, and endeavour to describe the various rivers with which it communicates.

As I have already observed, the Manukao is by far the best harbour on the west coast, and although it has a bar at its mouth, its entrance is easy to vessels of 400 tons; the channel is strait, and a signal post is at the heads; the sailing directions are published by the Admiralty, from the information given by Captain Drury of the Pandora, to whom the country is deeply indebted for the diligence and care with which he has surveyed the coast, and rendered its fine harbours available.

The harbour of Manukao has been pronounced by Captain Drury easy of access, particularly for steamers; it is commodious, has numerous bays and creeks, and connects Onihunga and Auckland with the Waikato and Waipa rivers; by means of the Waihuku creek, which creek is only divided from the Awaroa, a stream which enters the Waikato, by a passage of about one mile in length; a canal or tramroad could be easily formed at this portage, while a canal at a narrow portage, which divides the Manukao from the Waitemata, would thus bring the Waikato to the east

and west side of Auckland. The land about the Waihuku (pronounced Waihook) is considered of excellent quality, much of it having been procured by Government, it is deemed a very available district for settlers. The Waihuku creek is situated on the south side of the Manukao harbour. The road from the creek to Auckland is about 50 miles; the roads have been, or shortly will be completed in bridges; it leads through Papakura, a district thickly occupied by settlers.

As no river sends so much valuable produce to any market in New Zealand as the Waikato and Waipa, 8 it is to be desired that a canal or railroad be formed to connect the upper part of the Waikato with the east coast, and a canal might be cut across the narrow portage, which separates it from the Piako.

The lands on the south side of Manukao are generally good, as is also that around Onihunga the Pensioner settlement, on the north side of the harbour, to which settlement a steamer runs once a month. This steamer touches at New Plymouth, Wellington, Nelson, and Canterbury.

Prom Onihunga to the north head of the Manukao the land is hilly, and principally valuable for its noble kauri forests. From the other side of Onihunga round the harbour by Otahuhu, Maungari, and all round to the Waihuku, the land is rich, but deficient in timber.

The easy water conveyance to all parts of the harbour makes this of little moment.

North of Manukao on the west coast, are the harbours of Kaipara and Hokianga; both bar harbours, which have, however, been entered for years by large ships. The rivers leading to these harbours have supplied our Government dockyards with some of the finest spars 9 ever received in England from any country. The river Wairoa (long-water) enters the Kaipara, after flowing through upwards of eighty miles of country; the whole of which distance it is navigable for canoes, and has, I am told, fine districts for agriculture, for cattle and sheep. Hokianga river is well wooded, and has for years supplied England and the neighbouring colonies with spars and timber. The natives on these rivers are principally engaged in the timber trade; but the districts only want opening to Auckland by bridle roads to make the land sought after, by those who desire to engage in cattle farming. The scenery of the Hokianga is considered beautiful. Both those rivers are well stocked with fish and waterfowl, and the woods on the banks supply numbers of pigeons.

South of Manukao harbour, are the harbours of Waikato, Wangaroa, Kawia, (pronounced Kafeea), and Mokau. Wangaroa and Kawia are both reckoned good harbours for small vessels. The land at Wangaroa is mostly in the hands of Govern-

ment. Much of it is valuable, and several settlers are located there. At Kawia, Government has also some good land. Both these harbours have mission stations, and at both of them a native trade is carried on with Manukao. The chief requirement of these districts is a direct bridle road to Auckland on one side of them, and New Plymouth on the other. Auckland and New Plymouth should have been one province, as Sir George Grey always intended. The Mokau district will bear comparison with any part of the province in the richness of its soil; it abounds in valuable limestone, is well wooded, well watered, and abounds in romantic scenery. Its harbour is a bar harbour, and only suited to small coasting vessels. Some of its land produces natural grasses, and nearly all of it may be readily rendered available for pastoral purposes by burning the fern, scattering grass seed, and stocking it with sheep. Much of the land is in the hands of the natives, but little energy has as yet been shown by Government to acquire it.

In the limestone district, between the Waipa and the west coast, some curious caves are met with of great interest to the lover of natural history. I visited these caves in l852, in the company of Dr. Thomson and Major Hume, and found several bones of the Moa, the Dinornis, said to have been the largest bird which ever existed; it is generally believed that the Moa is now extinct. In addition to the interest the naturalist would have in visiting these caves, the general traveller would be

pleased with their beauty, and the scenery around them. The largest and most curious of the caves is situated near a small native settlement called Raorao, on the road from the Waipa to Rotomarama and Mania, about half a mile to the right of Raorao, and about two miles on the Waipa side of Rotomarama; it is called Te-ana-o-te-atua (the cave of the Deity), is situated in a wood, and is about a quarter of a mile to the right of the road. Just before turning off the road to the caves, the traveller, who has walked through about three miles of wood from Pahetawa, on leaving the wood obtains a fine distant view of the mountain Tongariro.

The entrance of Te-ana-o-te-atua, situated in a gully, is like a grand cathedral porch, and is clad with green creepers; in height it is about twenty-five feet; its length is about sixty feet, and its average width about eighteen feet; the roof is hung with thousands of stalactites, which vary in length from an inch to four feet; the further end of this porch opens into a passage of about ten yards extent, the roof and sides of which are partially clothed with stalactites; a small stream of water runs through this passage, which leads to a narrow gallery about one hundred yards long, and twelve feet high, the roof of which is circular, and overhung with white stalactites. A low entrance at the end of this gallery, connects it with a beautiful dome fifty or sixty feet high, the roof of which is also fretted with stalactites, and lighted with phosphorescent substances, which give it the appearance of a starry

firmament. It is about fifty yards long, and opens to a second gallery about ten feet high and thirty yards long. This gallery again leads to different passages. Being pressed for time we were only able to trace one of these; like the rest of the cave we found it adorned with stalactites and stalagmites; it extended about five hundred yards, and led to no other gallery. About half-way through it we noticed an opening in its top. In this passage we found several Moa bones. On arriving at Rotomarama, we understood from some natives that we had not traced the finest passage in the cave. The natives were angry with us for having found out their cave, which they appeared to look on as sacred.

Of villages and settlements, more immediately connected with the western harbour of Auckland, I have already mentioned the Pensioner settlements at Onihunga and Otahuhu; the latter of which is connected by both harbours, being situated on another portage which divides the eastern and western waters. I may now state that the natives have a flourishing settlement opposite Onihunga, named Maungari, several small settlements on the Waikato and Waipa, and large villages at the head of either river; that at the head of Waikato is called Maungatotari. Here is a native church, two water mills for grinding corn, and large native cultivations, well fenced in, and carefully looked after. At the head of the Waipa is the Maori village of Rangiawia (pronounced Rangiaphea) at which some thousand acres have been fenced in, five flour-mills built, and two

churches erected. Much is due to the Rev. Mr. Morgan the English, and also to Roman Catholic Ministers at this village, for having instructed the natives in agriculture, the management of cattle and horses, and the use of water power. Some years ago I saw 1000 acres of wheat, which had been planted by Maories, and which would be ground at their own mills, and the flour brought to market in their canoes. These natives have bought some of the finest horses and cattle in the country, and they have races annually, at which they offer prizes.

The Maungatotari natives, perhaps, deserve more credit for the progress they have made, than their brothers of Rangiawia, as they have never had any resident missionary, but natives, instructed by the Rev. Mr. Morgan, preach in church, and instruct other natives at school.

From what has been written, it will be seen that the geographical advantages of the province of Auckland are immense. At a rough calculation, her sea-board may be estimated, exclusive of islands, as occupying a coast line upwards of 900 miles in extent; while her principal rivers, viz. the rivers Waikato, Waipa, Thames, 10 Piako, and Wairoa are navigable for canoes, through at least 450 miles of country. Her numerous other rivers, creeks and bays, afford water carriage for produce and goods, through at least an equal number of miles of country; and these rivers and creeks feed upwards of twenty-

eight harbours, of which four, viz. the Harbour of Auckland, the Bay of Islands, Wangaroa, and the middle harbour of the Barrier, are always easy of access, and afford excellent and safe anchorage for any number of vessels of the largest size: while eight harbours, viz. the harbours at Monganui, Wangari, Mahurangi, the Waite, Hokianga, Kaipara, Manukao and Koromandel, are accessible to vessels of, at least, 400 tons;11 and upwards of eight other harbours, among which the Matakana, Kawau, Mercury Bay, Tauranga, Maketu, Poverty Bay, the Bay of Plenty, and Kawia, may be noticed as suitable for brigs, schooners, and coasting vessels.

I will only further observe, that science may, at a trifling cost, add much to the geographical advantages of the province, in cutting canals through the narrow neck of land which separates the Waikato from the Manukao, the Manukao from the Waitemata, and the Waikato from the Piako; by means of which produce might be conveyed to either of the harbours of Auckland without land carriage.

It has already been observed, that the climate of Auckland is superior to that of the greater part of New Zealand. A short account of the town of Auckland, and the following meteorological table, quoted in Mr. Swainson's work on the province, from a return kept by Dr. A. S. Thomson, will conclude my pages on New Zealand's Northern Province.

Meteorological Table for Auckland, New Zealand, kept during the Years 1849, 1850, and 1851.

Meteorological Table for Auckland, New Zealand, kept during the Years 1849, 1850, and 1851.

The mean annual temperature of Auckland during the above years was 59 1/4 deg. Fahrenheit's scale. This was drawn from four observations daily, and corresponds almost exactly with the mean temperature given by the late Dr. Johnson, Colonial Surgeon. Florence, Naples, Rome, Marseilles, Toulon, and other places in Europe, have a similar mean annual temperature to Auckland, but the winter months are colder, and summer months warmer in those places than in Auckland.

I cannot bring these remarks to a close without observing, that while the healthy climate and cheap land of New Zealand recommend it as one of the finest fields of emigration, I would not, however, advise any one to quit a home where he is happy, or a country in which he is prosperous, even for the numerous and tempting advantages it holds out.

8 The Waikato connects itself with the Waipa about 50 miles from its mouth.

9 The Kauri spars are often upwards of 100 feet long without a knot.

10 Thames or Waiho, named Thames by Captain Cook.

11 Many of them, I believe, will accommodate much larger vessels.

CHAPTER VII. TOWN OF AUCKLAND AND PROVINCIAL LAND REGULATIONS.

CHAPTER VII.

TOWN OF AUCKLAND AND PROVINCIAL LAND REGULATIONS.

THE town of Auckland was proclaimed the capital of New Zealand in 1840 by Captain Hobson; since which it has been laid out, colonised, and built, by emigrants from home and the neighbouring colonies, without the assistance of any Land Company; and, owing to its natural advantages, has grown in the number of its inhabitants and houses beyond all other townships in the colony, notwithstanding the help afforded them by such companies. Auckland would have been in a more advanced position had no Land Company in connection with New Zealand ever existed, as one-fourth of the Auckland land-fund has been seized on by Government to pay a Company from which the province had received no benefit.

The town contains four churches of stone and brick, belonging to the Roman Catholic, Anglican, Wesleyan, and Scotch Churches, besides other churches constructed of wood. Amongst the buildings of Auckland may be enumerated a large Government house and gaol, a House of Assembly, two barracks

capable of accommodating 600 men, a commissariat office, government offices, a mechanics' institute, several hotels, and house accommodation for about 8000 inhabitants. More hotel accommodation is required: the houses are for the most part too small, and the number of bedrooms insufficient. I have known passengers by the William Denny, Auckland and Sydney steamer, obliged to remain on board for want of hotel accommodation. There are two steam flour-mills, and stores and shops of every description, where provisions, groceries, wines, building-materials, boots, shoes, and ironmongery of all sorts may be procured. Horses, working bullocks, carts, and most kinds of agricultural implements may be purchased at Auckland. Wages have ranged as high at least as the average of wages paid in the colonies before alluded to. Boots and shoes are dear, and settlers would do well to take out a supply with them, (notwithstanding an advertisement of Mr. Kevin, that he is in the habit of receiving large consignments from England, from which gentlemen may provide themselves with articles of either "the very worst or very best description.") Firewood has been selling at from 12s to 16s a ton on the beach, and coals at from £2 10s to £3 10s for the last four years. There is an iron-foundry, at which ships can be supplied with ironwork at a reasonable rate; – auction marts, where land, houses, and stock of all sorts are frequently changing hands; – two public wharves, one of which,

the Queen's-Wharf, is used for mercantile purposes, ships of 300 tons burden being capable of being moored alongside, to discharge or take in cargo: the other wharf, the Wynyard Pier, is principally used by persons going to or landing from vessels in boats; it is also much frequented as a promenade, and before eight o'clock in the morning by bathers. There are well-appointed ship and boat-building yards, and a good rope-walk. A tan-yard is wanted. Energetic capitalists might, with advantage both to themselves and the town's-people, form companies for furnishing the town-houses with supplies of water and gas.

The town is badly drained, and of late has not been kept as clean as it used to be. The new Constitution has given Auckland too many Government officers, so many, indeed, in proportion to its population, that it is difficult to find out whose duty it is to do anything. The inhabitants of the town are in general very orderly, and do not require a large police force. Meat, vegetables, and poultry are supplied to the markets from the neighbourhood, and from the Pensioner villages; there is likewise a native market-place where potatoes, Indian-corn, pigs, and poultry may generally be procured.

Of all the ports of New Zealand, Auckland presents the most available harbour for provisioning whalers and other ships, and for the supply of spars. By the report of the French Commission, it appears that the kauri-pine spars of Auckland are superior in strength and flexibility to either the American or Baltic pines.

Mr. Swainson shows that the agricultural returns of the years 1851 and 1852, indicate the following results, viz:

In 1851. Acres.

In 1852.

Acres.

Were in Cultivation with.

885

1,558

Wheat.

794

1,158

Potatoes.

6,631

11,606

Grass.

9,707

17,299

Total in Crops.

12,246

20,207

Fenced in.

The value of exports, in 1852, was given as follows: –

Kauri spars

£5,850 0 0

Sawn timber

11,816 0 0

Copper ore

5,225 0 0

Oil

8,629 0 0

Flax

1,049 0 0

Wool

1,280 0 0

Kauri gum

805 0 0

Cordage

550 0 0

Houses in frame

1,622 10 0

Gold-dust and quartz

114 10 0

Wheat

1,371 0 0

Flour

4,029 0 0

Oats

548 0 0

Ham and Bacon

1,610 0 0

Onions and Potatoes

2,732 0 0

Cheese and Butter

456 0 0

Sundries

3,413 0 0

Total

£51,100 0 0

In the same year there were more than 100 vessels registered as belonging to the port, besides upwards of 150 small craft under fifteen tons; and during that period 741 vessels of all sizes were entered at the custom house as having come into port. By the customs' returns, it appears that goods had entered the province of the estimated value of £348,920 12s 9d for the year 1854, in which trade 42,905 tons of shipping, and 2593 men had been engaged; and that during the same year goods valued at £18,411. 4s 3d had been exported from the province, in which 44,005 tons of shipping, and 2594 men had been engaged. By a census-return, furnished by the resident magistrate for the year 1855, it is shown that the total European population of Auckland amounted to 11,919, there being 1483 more males than females: of these 416 are stated as being engaged in trade, 673 in agriculture, 667 as labourers, 1134 as mechanics and artificers, 259 as domestic servants, 12 in the legal, and 23 in the medical profession. It might be thought from this statement that there were too few engaged in agriculture to support the town; but it must be remembered that the native population amounts to from sixty to eighty thousand people, a large proportion of whom are engaged in agriculture, the timber trade, and in collecting kauri-gum, which has for some time been a valuable export from the colony. The natives in return for their produce make large purchases from the stores, and it is by means of the native trade that so

many Europeans are enabled to earn a living in the town. It is nevertheless greatly to be desired that a larger proportion of emigrants should engage themselves in agriculture. By the same return it is shown that 42,761 3/4 acres of land were fenced in, and that 27,138 1/4 were in cultivation, of which 3838 were in grain, 19,622 1/2 in artificial grasses, and the remainder in potatoes and other crops. A comparison of these figures, with the returns quoted from Mr. Swainson's work, will explain how the province has progressed in agriculture. By the returns of 1855, there were 1999 horses, 19,825 head of cattle, 22,091 sheep, 3465 goats, and 9736 pigs, in the province.

The local newspapers quote the following rates of wages in 1855: – Masons, bricklayers, carpenters, and cabinet-makers at 12s per diem; farm servants, with rations, at from £35 to £50 per annum; female servants, at from 8s to 12s per week, and day labourers at from 7s to 8s per day. Board and lodging in Auckland has been high for the last four years.

It is considered, by a large majority of the inhabitants of the province, that its progress has been retarded by the experiments made on it in the arts of Constitution-mongering during the last few years. The people had exhibited at the election of their first Superintendent a practical knowledge of what was best for the province by selecting Colonel Wynyard, the officer administering the Government of the colony, to fill the office. In this election, the people paid the

high and unusual compliment to the Queen's representative of pronouncing him the most popular man in the province, while they ensured to themselves a steady line of Government, such as had been carried out by Colonel Wynyard for the two preceding years. Auckland never made such steady progress as under Colonel Wynyard's government, which will be long remembered by the people, to most of whom it was a subject of regret that their choice should have been virtually set aside by Sir George Grey, her Majesty's Secretary of State.

The following Digest of the Provincial Land Regulations now in force in Auckland, will give a sufficient outline to those who are emigrating, on arriving at Auckland, or any of the provincial towns. Emigrants desirous of obtaining land, will do well, at once to put themselves in communication with the Land Commissioners at the various land offices, from whom, if they sufficiently persevere, they ought to obtain all necessary information.

DIGEST OF THE AUCKLAND LAND REGULATIONS.

1. All country lands shall be sold at a fixed price of 10s an acre, excepting such lands as shall be reserved by the Superintendent for public purposes, or for sale by auction, or which shall contain less than 40 acres.

2. Country lands shall be open for selection after one month's notice has been published to that effect by the Superintendent in the Provincial Gazette.

3. Persons desirous of becoming purchasers shall give a written notice at the Land-office to that effect, either in. their own hand or by the hand of their agent; applications must contain the applicant's name, together with the area and situation of the allotment desired, and a description of its boundaries.

4. Allotments not already surveyed must be surveyed in rectangular blocks, having at least two-thirds of depth to one-third of frontage to any river, wood, lake, or coast.

An exception to this rule may be made in favour of applicants who own land adjoining that for which they may apply.

5. Applications shall be under sealed covers, on which shall be legibly endorsed the applicant's name and the number of acres required.

6. Applicants must pay 10s per acre at the Land-office on applying for land; the production of the receipt will authorise the waste land commissioner to register the application.

7. All applications are to be opened on the same day, viz., on the day appointed by the Superintendent for the sale of different blocks, on which day no further applications are to be received.

8. When only one application is made, and the money paid previous to the day on which applications are opened, the land applied for shall be deemed the property of the applicant.

9. Land applied for by two or more persons shall be

offered at auction to the competition of applicants only, at a minimum price of 10s an acre; the highest bidder shall become possessor of the land so offered on payment of the difference.

10. Immediately after the auction, unsuccessful bidders shall have their money returned.

11. Country land not disposed of by auction, or not applied for prior to the day notified, may be in similar manner, on and after that day, applied for in the way described in par. 3, and without auction be sold to the bidder at 10s per acre.

12. Applicants for unsurveyed lands will be informed whether the Government or applicant is to survey; applicants who survey are allowed at the rate of five acres per 100 acres to pay the expense they are put to.

13. Land not disposed of within six months after it has been offered at auction, may be submitted at an upset price of 1s per acre by the Superintendent, who must, however, advertise this three months previous to auction in the Provincial Gazette.

14. The Superintendent may lease by public auction lots of not more than 160 acres for 21 years, of any waste land containing minerals.

15. The Superintendent may lease by private contract, land containing minerals of not more than 160 acres to the discoverer of such minerals.

16. One-fifteenth of all minerals raised is to be reserved as a royalty.

17. Land may be purchased on part credit, under the following agreement, viz. the purchaser shall receive of land set apart for the purpose, not more than 100, nor less than 20 acres, for which he shall altogether pay 15s an acre, viz. 1s an acre on tendering his application, this 1s shall be kept as part payment; the next payment of a second 1s an acre shall be made at the end of the first year; a third 1s at the end of the second year; a fourth 1s at the end of the third year; a fifth 1s at the end of the fourth year, and the remaining 10s at the end of the fifth year.

18. Besides having thus to pay 5s per acre more than ready money applicants, the credit occupant of land has to erect a house 24 feet by 12, and fence in his land before he can obtain his Crown grant.

Working settlers had best make their money first, and buy their land without credit such as this.

CHAPTER VIII. NEW PLYMOUTH, OR TARANAKI.

CHAPTER VIII.

NEW PLYMOUTH, OR TARANAKI.

NEW Plymouth, the central province of the Northern Island, is bounded on the north by the river Mokau; on the east by a right line running from the source of the Mokau to the point where the Ngahuinga or Tuhua, is intersected by the 39th parallel of south latitude, thence by the river Wanganui to the point where it is met by the Taumatamahoe path, leading from the river Waitera; thence by a right line running from the above described point on the Wanganui river to the mouth of the river Patea; on the west by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; on the south by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto.

The province of New Plymouth returns three members for the General Assembly, viz. one for the town of New Plymouth, one for the Grey and Bell districts, and one for the Omata district. The Provincial Council consists of nine members, of whom two are returned by the town, four by the Grey and Bell districts, and three by the Omata district.

New Plymouth comprises the site of New Plymouth; the Grey and Bell district comprises the Grey, Bell and Waiwakaio blocks, and all that other part of the province which lies north of the Paritutu

line, excepting the town of New Plymouth. The Omata district comprises the Omata and Tataraimaka blocks, and all that other part of the province which lies south of the Paritutu line.

The Council, which has legislated for the province in a most economical manner, assembles about once a week throughout the year. The Superintendent receives a salary of £350. With this small salary the present Superintendent, Mr. Brown, contrives to entertain strangers most hospitably, and has made himself generally popular in the province. Emigrants may obtain information either of the Superintendent, or of Mr. Halse, at the Land Office, regarding Crown lands for sale.

The climate of New Plymouth is perhaps more invigorating than that of Auckland; Mount Egmont, 12 or "the Mountain," as New Plymouth settlers proudly designate their favourite object, not unfrequently sends cold winds to the surrounding country from its snow-clad top. The summer, winter, and autumn of New Plymouth are very enjoyable, and agree well with animal life: spring is not so agreeable, on account of high winds. Few parts of the world can boast of as fine children, and I never have seen cattle or sheep thrive so well anywhere as at New Plymouth. The district has often been called, and is considered by most people who have seen it, to be the Garden of New Zealand.

The land is all good, and mostly rich. I believe it would be impossible to buy bad land in the district. All the new emigrant has to do is to see that his land is not too hilly, and that he has a sufficiency, and not more than a sufficiency, of wood: most of the open land alienated from the natives has been purchased. The district is well watered by numerous mountain streams flowing from "the Mountain."

New Plymouth, from its climate and water, is well suited for brewing; the hop grows well, and I have drunk excellent beer brewed near the town. The pasture is as rich as our old Devonshire pasture, and no Devonshire cream or Devonshire butter can surpass that of New Plymouth. I have eaten home-made cheese at New Plymouth quite equal to the finest Stilton.

The town of New Plymouth was founded in 1840, on an open roadstead of the west coast, about ten miles to the south of the river Waitera, and about three to the north of the Sugarloaf hills. The banks of the Waitera river, the harbour of which alone offers any protection to vessels, is much more suited by nature for the site of a town than the present site. A harbour might be made by running a breakwater out to the Sugarloaf hill from the shore, but this would be attended with considerable expense.

"The Mountain " is about twelve miles to the west of the town, the Omata district to the south, and the Waitera river to the north.

The Omata district, rather thickly wooded, is rich

in land, and beautiful in scenery. The Grey and Bell blocks are more level, and less wooded; in all the districts the land is suited to the production of wheat, barley, potatoes, maize, onions, pumpkins, and green crops of all sorts; also for every description of garden produce. The natural growth of the land consists of bush, fern, flax, and tupaki. The land about the Waitera is covered with very high fern and strong tupaki. Nothing can more surely prove the richness of the soil than the latter shrub. English grasses and Dutch clover grow in the richest luxuriance; so much so, that it is considered one acre of land, when in full growth of grass, will feed five or six sheep through the year. There is little natural grass in the province; mangold wurzel, turnips, carrots and cauliflowers grow to an unusually large size. The settlers have in many cases overtaxed their land by continuing to sow wheat, year after year, on the same ground; excepting in the Bell and Grey districts much of the land is hilly.

The province, which extends from Auckland from the Mokau river, and from that of Wellington from the Wanganui river, is chiefly in the hands of the natives. The natives, who have been quarrelling and fighting much amongst themselves, are on good terms with the Europeans, in proof of which it may be mentioned, that when one tribe shut up the road against hostile natives leading from Auckland to Taranaki, the mail was always allowed to pass. I believe it only re-

quires management to reduce the natives to order, and that a person of influence, who would mix with them on either side, would soon settle their differences, and induce them to sell part of their land at the Waitera, where a township should have been formed long since. The system with these natives seems to have been that of non-interference, and letting matters take their course, by which Government has fallen into very general disrepute with Europeans and natives. The river Hua, a small stream, runs through the town. The Henui, the Waiwakaio, and Waiongana may be mentioned as streams between the town and the Waitera, beautiful in their scenery, and valuable to the country through which they flow; valuable for watering cattle and sheep, but of no use for harbours to boats larger than canoes. Between New Plymouth and the Wanganui, are the rivers Otamatua, Patea, and several small streams, of which the Patea is the largest, but none are very available even for small coasting vessels. The progress made in the district by Europeans has been less than might have been expected from the excellence of the land. Many people have been deterred from settling at New Plymouth on account of the natives, and the want of harbour accommodation. The native disturbances I do not consider a sufficient reason, but the want of harbour accommodation is a great drawback to the province.

The natives have a large pah at the Waitera, and load several ships annually with produce for the Austra-

lian markets. Government should endeavour to buy part of the land on this river. The natives, who know well the value of a township near them, would probably agree to sell part of the land on this, the only river available near the settlement as a harbour of refuge.

With regard to the native disturbances, I visited the pahs and settlements of the natives during the winter of 1856, and found a friendly feeling existed towards the Europeans by natives of both sides; and the out-settlers who had been living for years amongst the natives appeared to have every confidence in them. At present the town is protected by a sufficient military force, composed of 250 soldiers, who are located on Marsden Hill, which commands the town.

The town of New Plymouth was built and occupied principally by people from Devonshire and Cornwall; it contains a handsome stone church, some good inns, a fine assembly room, and houses, six of which are of stone, and about 400 of wood, affording accommodation for nearly 1500 people. The houses about the surrounding district, numerous and mostly built of wood, with thatched roofs, are exceedingly picturesque, and remind the emigrant of the Devonshire houses. House-rent is high.

By the provincial returns it appears that for the year ending 30th June, 1855, there were 2113 Europeans in the province, of whom 1135 are males, and 978 females; of these 313 were engaged in agriculture, 123 in manufacture, 72 in commerce, and 40 in pro-

fessional business. These returns show 7056 3/8 acres belonging to Europeans to be fenced in, 7612 7/8 in crop, and that Europeans possess stock as follows, viz.: 238 horses, 2143 head of cattle, 14,846 sheep, 55 goats, and 998 pigs.

The prices of cattle and sheep are much the same as at Auckland. It is shown that the average yield per acre was as follows, viz.: – Wheat 23 2/3 bushels, oats 26, barley 24 1/2, and maize 16 to the acre; potatoes, 6 1/6 tons, turnips 10, carrots 16, mangold wurzel 16 3/4, and hay 1 2/3 to the acre. From what I have seen myself of crops at New Plymouth, I believe this return has rather under estimated the average of the crops. In 1855 the provincial paper, quotes the prices of the following necessaries thus, viz.: – Flour, per ton, £40 and £35; bread, per 21b. loaf, 11d; butter, per lb., 1s 6d; eggs, per dozen, 1s 6d; wheat, per bushel, 12s 6d; oats, 5s 6d; potatoes, per ton, £6; hay, per ton, £6; sawn timber, per 100 feet, £1 8s 6d. In 1856 these prices had varied but little. House-rent was high, and labour much the same and more scarce than in Auckland. New Plymouth has lately been deprived of the services of Mr. Richmond, an able and highly trustworthy lawyer, and member for the town; that gentleman having been called to fill the office of Colonial Secretary, his duty obliges him to remain at Auckland. I believe there is an opening for one or two professional men to take his place.

Better house accommodation is required at New Plymouth; one or two master builders, a few bricklayers, and several carpenters would find employment. Sawyers are also much wanted. In December, 1856, the Survey Department was about to throw open a fine block of bush land, and it is to be desired that an effort should be made to acquire land from the natives between the Omata district and Wanganui, between which places the land is highly spoken of. The natives about New Plymouth and in the other parts of the province are numerous; they are much advanced in agriculture, have some good horses, and a finer breed of cattle than I have ever seen in possession of any other Maories; their cultivations are, many of them, fenced in with post and rail fences. They have much horse stock, and often let out their horses to the Europeans.

They dress well in the European dress, and are seldom seen in town without good shoes. The Europeans have not so kindly a feeling towards the natives as the settlers of Auckland. This is to be accounted for by the difficulty offered by the natives in selling land. The settlers naturally feel annoyed at seeing so much good land idle. An energetic Government might buy land; there is more than enough for both races, and both races would benefit in having the district indifferently occupied.

A very friendly feeling exists amongst the settlers,

who have a club and well-managed subscription library. I never resided in any settlement where strangers are treated more hospitably.

The Devonshire and Cornwall people would probably make more progress in public works and roads if they were to receive a few Scotch, Irish, and Englishmen from other counties into their province.

No hard-working labouring men would do wrong in making New Plymouth their home. The greater the mixture of races the more the place will succeed. It might be a mutual advantage to both settlements to toss the Scotch of Otago with the west country people of New Plymouth well up together, and then divide the lot between the provinces.

To compensate for want of harbour accommodation as far as the funds of the province will admit, Government provides excellent boats with which to land passengers and goods. These boats are well manned, and safe in most weather. People often get drenched in going through the surf, which prevails; but I have not heard of any accident attending a disembarkation. I have seen 70 men, with camp equipage for 250, landed after dark without difficulty; and I have been informed that no ship has ever been lost at New Plymouth. Gentlemen are recommended always to take their necessary baggage with them, as it does now and then happen that a ship has to put to sea at five minutes' notice, and may not return for a week or so. I think passengers are charged 1s for landing, and goods at 10s per

ton. I have known a larged sized vessel discharge its cargo in four or five days, and have heard masters of vessels remark that in no port could they discharge cargo so readily as at New Plymouth. Monthly communication is kept up with Auckland and Wellington by a steamer, the Zingari.

I have described the soil as good and rich, it may be well to mention that it is light and porous, in few parts can clay be found. There is some limestone in the district, but the subsoil generally is sand, consequently it is nearly all naturally drained, and is fit for all agricultural purposes when cleared; but ought to be manured after two or three crops have been taken from it; though light, the land always appears to retain its moisture. Dutch clover not only grows, but flourishes through all the year. The tops of many of the hills are as fertile as the valleys. The forests of New Plymouth are beautiful to look at, and contain much fine pouriri and red and white pine. The pine woods are used for building purposes; these pines are very hard to cut, but they are said to last well, and they look well. Kauri pine is preferred by the carpenters, and a trade in this wood has latterly been opened with the province of Auckland, whence the town receives most of its bricks. There is plenty of stone adapted to building purposes, of which the church, considered the handsomest building in the colony, is built.

New Plymouth has no bank: one is much needed.

I believe it would pay to establish a branch Bank of Australia in the town.

For want of a bank the townspeople suffer considerably in getting bills discounted, and obtaining money on short bills; they have to pay most exorbitant rates of interest. I have known 25 per cent. given on short bills.

The missionary influence does not seem to have been so successful in the middle districts of the island, as it has been in the north; more natives about New Plymouth are seen drunk on the roads than at Auckland, where in numbers they exceed the natives of New Plymouth.

12 Mount Egmont or Taranaki, about 10,000 feet high, stands alone in a wide, well-wooded plain.

CHAPTER IX. DIGEST OF LAND REGULATIONS OF NEW PLYMOUTH.

CHAPTER IX.

DIGEST OF LAND REGULATIONS OF NEW PLYMOUTH.

1. THE upset price of country land at auction shall be 10s per acre.

2. Land shall not be offered for sale till it has been proclaimed by the Superintendent for at least one month in the Provincial Gazette.

3. The bidding at sales of rural lands shall be of a certain sum per acre for a section, to be immediately afterwards chosen by the bidder, in any district duly declared as open for purchase. Other purchasers shall select land in order according to their biddings. The auction shall continue so long as any offer shall be made of the minimum price of 10s per acre.

4. Rural sections may, at the discretion of the Superintendent, either be marked out prior to the sale, or in sections, the size of which may be determined on at the time of sale; but in the latter case no section shall exceed 240 acres, or be less than 40 acres.

5. The road frontage of rural sections shall not exceed two-thirds of the depth of the section.

6. No rural section shall exceed 240 acres, and no town section a quarter of an acre.

7. In every district declared open for purchase, one twentieth part of proclaimed lands shall be reserved as an endowment for public schools.

8. Military and naval officers retired or on half-pay are allowed the privilege accorded to them by Sir George Grey's regulations.

9. Government scrip will be granted to officers to enable them to procure land, on their signing an agreement to remain in the province for two years from the day on which they sign.

10. Non-commissioned officers and privates in Her Majesty's army or in the royal militia, who, being on service in the province, shall obtain their discharge there (with good conduct certificates), shall be entitled, after one year's residence in the province after their discharge, to land of the following value, viz.: –

To non-commissioned officers £80 worth of land.
To private soldiers £40 "

Soldiers are required in this province, and these liberal regulations enable the Government to provide for deserving soldiers at small cost to the country.

Veteran Battalions might have been formed of men of from twelve to fifteen years' service, and from these battalions so many men could be discharged every year, and their places filled by others. The English labour market would thus have been relieved, and the colony benefited.

CHAPTER X. WELLINGTON.

CHAPTER X.

WELLINGTON.

WELLINGTON is bounded on the north by the southern boundary of the province of Auckland; on the east by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; on the north-west, by the southern portion of the eastern boundary of the province of New Plymouth, as already described; on the southwest, by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; and on the south, by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto.

The town of Wellington comprises the site of the town.

The Wellington county district comprises the Wade town district, the Karori, the Ohiro, the Kai Warra-Warra, the Porirua, and the Manawatu districts, and the country adjacent to the before-named districts, the islands of Kapiti, Mana, and the other islands adjacent to the coast.

The Hutt district comprises the Hutt Valley, the Pakuratahi district to the summit of the Rimutaka range, the Lowry Bay district, the Wainui-o-Mata district, and the country adjacent to these districts.

The Wairarapa and Hawke's Bay district comprises the Wairarapa Valley and such portion of Hawke's

Bay as has been purchased from the natives, and which lies within the province.

The Wanganui and Rangitikei district comprises all the country on those rivers which has been alienated from the natives.

Wellington, the southern province of the Northern Island, returns eight members for the General Assembly. The province is divided into the following electoral districts, viz : The city of Wellington, which returns three members; the county district, which returns one member; the Hutt, which returns two members; the Wairarapa and Hawke's Bay, and the Wanganui and Rangatikei, which return one member each. These districts return eighteen members for the Provincial Council. Wellington has sent well educated men to the Assembly, many of whom are more oratorical than practical, and to them may be attributed the wordy debates which have occupied the time of the House, more to the amusement of honourable members, than for the benefit of the colony.

On the west coast, between the Wanganui river and the harbour of Wellington, may be mentioned the rivers Turakino, Rangitikei, Manawatu, and Otaki; also the harbour of Porirua. The Wanganui, a broad rapid river, rich in bold and beautiful scenery, runs through miles of available country. The harbour admits vessels of from 200 to 300 tons. A bar at the entrance of the river sometimes renders it difficult of access, but secure anchorage is offered inside.

The town of Wanganui, or Petre, founded in 1840, is perhaps the most flourishing of all the Wellington settlements, next to Wellington. Government has acquired a large supply of land here, most of which is of excellent quality, and the district without being overburdened with wood, has a sufficiency for all purposes. The district offers a selection of fern, flax, and grass land. The Maories on the river are friendly to Europeans, of whom there are about 1000 in the district, and their number is rapidly increasing. Much traffic is carried on with the natives, who bring wood and produce of all sorts to the town. The town is chiefly built of wood; earthquakes being occasionally felt, wooden houses are more safe than brick or stone buildings. Wanganui is protected by a military force of about 150 men. The station is important on account of the numerous tribes located on the river and the lake districts, with which it is closely connected. Military stockades, where the soldiers are quartered, were built by Captain Balneavis, of the 58th regiment, to whom much credit is due for the zeal and ability he displayed in employing the natives at this work in troubled times. The Maories are now too closely connected with the interests of the town, to make it likely that further disturbances will take place. Wanganui carries on a considerable trade with Wellington and the neighbouring colonies, and some fine herds of cattle are depastured in the district by the settlers of New Plymouth.

The Turakino and Rangitikei are fine districts, but without available harbours. The Government owns much land on their banks. The settlers and natives on these rivers trade at Wanganui. Profitable sheep and cattle stations have been formed on these rivers. The Manawatu, the next most flourishing district to the Wanganui, had about 80 or 100 settlers on its banks in 1855, and these people have a considerable number of acres in cultivation, and own horses, cattle, and sheep. The river admits small coasting vessels, and flows through many miles of fertile country, on which is a good growth of flax and fern. The Ohau, the next river, is not equal as a river to Manawatu, but it waters much fine land. Otaki, a native settlement named from its river, has made considerable progress. Its natives have built a large church, are regular in attendance at Divine worship and school, and in habits and manners have copied the Europeans more than at any of the Wellington settlements. Much of these native improvements are to be attributed to Archdeacon Hatfield and the Rev. Mr. Williams, who rank with Mr. Taylor of Wanganui, as resident missionaries and able instructors. I have seen upwards of 70 men, women, and children at school at Otaki, many of whom were 50 years of age. Amongst them was the celebrated old Roparaha, whose son has greatly assisted the mission in many ways. This young chief has a well-built wooden house with seven rooms. He is very hospitable and entertains Europeans, to whom he offers a good table and

bedroom. Otaki has been formed by the natives into quite an English village, with streets and division fences to the different allotments.

Between Otaki and Wellington, the harbour of Porirua offers available anchorage to vessels of small burden; the scenery is pretty, and the neighbourhood of the harbour is populated with from 800 to 1000 people.

The town of Wellington, founded in 1839, by the New Zealand Company, is situated in a beautiful bay opening into Cook's Straits; the land about the bay is hilly, and the principal street is formed along the side of the water. On account of its lake-like bay, and the form of the town, Wellington resembles the Scotch fishing village of Inverary on Loch Fine. The deep bay is five or six miles in diameter, and being almost surrounded with hills, affords a secure harbour for large vessels, and much facility is offered by wharfs for the discharge of cargo, and embarkation and disembarkation of passengers. The houses are mostly built of wood, owing to the severe shocks of earthquake with which Wellington is frequently attacked. Wellington has excellent hotels, a church, a bank, and a commodious hospital. The town has been considerably advanced by the orderly class of settlers, sent out by the Company; and if only on this account, this settlement owes a heavy debt to the Company. Great credit is also given to Sir George Grey by the settlers, for the care he took in procuring land for the province, and the large

sums of money he expended in connecting the town by well formed roads with the coast, Wanganui, and the district of the Hutt; the road 13 to the coast by Porirua and the Orakiwi valley, extending for about thirty miles, is made of stone, and has several bridges; along this road is much fine forest land, beautiful to look at but difficult to clear. The road to the Hutt leads along the bay for four or five miles, from whence it follows a stream for four or five miles further. The Hutt district contains from twelve to fifteen thousand acres of most fertile and sufficiently level land, which was heavily timbered in most parts; beyond this district the land is hilly, as it also is along the Porirua road. Excepting at the Hutt, Wellington has a very small quantity of land in its immediate neighbourhood considered available for agricultural purposes. The Hutt, in common with the town and country around Wellington, has twice within the last ten years suffered severely from earthquakes; on the last occasion the bridge at the Hutt was destroyed, all the brick and stone buildings of the town damaged, and some people were said to have been injured.

In addition to the advantages Wellington has enjoyed in obtaining so much money for roads, the headquarters of a regiment has been for the last nine years located in the town. As Mr. Fox has judiciously remarked in his work on the six colonies, "It is probably owing to this expenditure, that Wellington

has obtained a commercial character, not perhaps consistent with its actual progress as a settlement, and the deficiency of open land in its vicinity." Cook's Straits are celebrated for thick fogs, and high winds, which often oblige vessels to return to sea after they are within the straits. To this and the earthquakes may be attributed the cause of Wellington being so much less resorted to than Auckland by vessels. The natives on the east coast prefer sailing even a longer distance to trade with Auckland.

On the east coast, the province includes the Ahuriri district, which with the Wairarapa valley are deemed the finest sheep runs in the Northern Island; the land at Hawke's Bay is also most available for the produce of grain, potatoes, onions, &c.

This district is numerously peopled by natives, and when it is well occupied by English farmers, doubtless a direct trade will be carried on between it and the colonies, without reference to Wellington and Cook's Straits, the coaster's dread. A vast tract of land is owned by Government at Hawke's Bay, and the Wellington people consider this district offers more advantages for small farms than any of its settlements.

The population of Wellington in 1855, was estimated at about 8000; the price of labour was much the same as at Auckland and New Plymouth; provisions and house-rent averaged about the same as at Auckland, firewood was rather dearer.

A very honestly written work, by Mr. Fitton, pub-

lished at Stanford's, 6, Charing Cross, contains the following remarks on Wellington, "The purely agricultural Colonist will probably find it more to his advantage, to select for his operations, as a tiller of the soil alone, some district, with more level and unencumbered country, than can now be cheaply purchased near Wellington, rather than to invest his labour or capital in clearing the thick forests, or cultivating the undulating lands, which add much to the beauty, but greatly interfere with the rapid agricultural development of this settlement." It may be well to add that much complaint has been made in the Wellington papers, on the difficulty attending the purchase of land from the Provincial Land-office.

It is said that one or two medical men, and a few able lawyers are wanted at Wellington.

The following table of the revenues of the provinces of Auckland, New Plymouth, and Wellington, for 1854, will give an idea of the comparative progress made by the three provinces.

1854.

Receipts.

Customs .

Auckland

43,000 0 0

New Plymouth

3,600 0 0

Wellington

27,000 0 0

Post Office .

Auckland

900 0 0

New Plymouth

75 0 0

Wellington

500 0 0

1855.

Customs .

Auckland

52,424 2 5

New Plymouth

4,641 5 5

Wellington

30,103 9 11

13 These roads, the best in the Colony, were made under the superintendence of Lieut.-Colonel Russell, of the 58th Regiment.

CHAPTER XI. DIGEST OF WELLINGTON LAND REGULATIONS.

CHAPTER XI.

DIGEST OF WELLINGTON LAND REGULATIONS.

1. THE upset price of land shall be 10s per acre.

2. Where application is made by more than one person on the same day, the land shall be submitted to competition at auction, at an upset price of 10s per acre, at which auction those only, whose names have been registered as applicants, shall be allowed to bid – the land shall be sold to the highest bidder.

3. The Superintendent shall reserve such land as he may think proper for townships or agricultural settlements, &c. &c.

4. The Superintendent may reserve land for associations, formed for promoting settlements or agricultural establishments, to be purchased by members, only of such associations, at the upset price of 10s per acre.

5. Land adjoining such reserves made for associations shall be reserved, in quantity amounting to one-third of the original reserve. – This third shall be used as a common run for cattle, &c. by the members of the association, for three or six years, after which it may

be declared open for sale, after a notice has been given to that effect for three months.

6. All reserves for townships or agricultural establishments, shall have reserves marked off of one-twentieth of all bush-land within the limit of such block, or if there be no bush within such block, then a sufficient reserve of bush-land outside the block, and most convenient thereto shall be made. The timber so reserved shall be used in common by the resident occupiers of the land, but not for sale to any other persons. The Superintendent may offer for sale, at an auction, land marked off in allotments of not more than 640 acres in extent, at an upset price of 5s per acre.

Occupation of pasture land.

1. Persons desirous of obtaining occupation licences for portions of unoccupied land, shall lodge with the Land Commissioner of the district, in which the run they desire is situated, a description of the run, and at the same time shall deposit £25 for runs, described as under 10,000 acres, and £50 for runs over 10,000 acres.

2. Such applications shall be filed, registered, and opened to public inspection.

3. Description of runs so applied for, shall, together with applicants' names, be published in the Provincial Gazette.

4. All objections must be laid before the Commissioner in writing, within three months after date of the publication thereof.

5. Such objections shall be disposed of by the Commissioner.

6. Applications for the same runs made on the same day shall be decided by lot.

7. Depasture licences shall be issued on the payment of a fee of £5.

8. No licence shall be granted, till a plan of run, exhibiting boundaries, and the computed acreage thereof, be deposited by applicant with the Commissioner.

9. Licensed runs may be at any time sold, if declared within the boundaries of agricultural or small farms – the licensed occupier having only a preemptive right over eighty acres around his homestead.

10. Bent for a run shall be computed upon the acreage, according to the following uniform rates, viz.:

For the first four years of occupation at the rate of one farthing per acre per annum; for the next five years at the rate of one halfpenny per acre per annum; for the remaining five years at the rate of one penny per acre per annum.

11. Rents for land so occupied shall be due and payable to the Commissioners, during the month of January in each year of occupation, up to the 31st of the preceding January.

For licences issued after 30th June, only half-a-year's rent shall be charged.

CHAPTER XII. NELSON.

CHAPTER XII.

NELSON.

NELSON, the northern province of the Middle Island, is bounded on the north by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; on the east by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; on the west by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; and on the south by the river Hurunui to its source, thence by a right line drawn to the point where the river Kotu-urakaoka issues out of Lake Brunner, thence by the river Kotu-urakaoka to its junction with the river Grey, thence by the river Grey to its mouth.

The province of Nelson returns five members for the House of Representatives, viz., two for the town of Nelson, two for the Waimea district, and one for the Motueka and Massacre Bay district. The Provincial Council is composed of fifteen members; five of whom are returned for the town, one for the suburbs, two for the Waimea east district, one for the Waimea west district, two for the Waimea south district, two for the Motueka district, and two for the Wairau district. The coast board of the province occupies on its three boundaries upwards of 150 miles. On the south coast

boundary are included Massacre Bay, Blind Bay, Motueka River, the Pelorus harbour and river, Queen Charlotte Sound and fort Underwood. Massacre Bay on the west of Cook's Straits contains about 45,000 acres of land, rather more than half of which is said to be available for agricultural purposes, but much of the most fertile of this land requires draining. It is well timbered, and coal has been found in abundance.

The town of Nelson is situated at the end of a deep bay, which opens into Blind Bay, the next bay to Massacre Bay. A rock at the entrance of the harbour, allows only a narrow passage to ships; this passage is deep, and good anchorage is offered to vessels of 500 or 600 tons within the harbour. The land on Blind Bay, generally hilly, offers many fine sites for houses, and the valleys are well suited for gardens and fruit trees, while shrubs of all sorts flourish luxuriantly. Blind Bay contains from 60,000 or 70,000 acres of land, most of which is too broken for agricultural purposes. Queen Charlotte Sound, (situated to the east of the Pelorus River) twenty-five miles in length, and from nine to ten miles wide at the entrance, contains many harbours, which I have heard described by a Naval Officer who had visited the Sound, as equal to any in New Zealand, and far superior to those of Wellington or Nelson. The bays of Queen Charlotte Sound are well wooded, and the land is of the most fertile description; rich in harbours, offering protection to the largest ships,

and abounding in fertile and well-wooded land; doubtless ere many years are passed, settlements will be formed in Queen Charlotte Sound, to rival many of New Zealand's earlier and worse selected sites.

Cloudy Bay, the most eastern bay of Cook's Straits, contains about 200,000 acres of land, much of which is admirably suited for sheep and cattle farms, as, excepting that which adjoins the coast, where it is swampy, most of this land is rich in natural grasses. Port Underwood, situated in Cloudy Bay, affords anchorage, though not of a very secure nature in some winds.

The principal rivers on the west coast of the province are the Buller, the Grey River, and the Kotu-urakaoka. The Buller flows through a long line of country, and divides the level land which is bounded by the coast from a mountain district, which is principally occupied by sheep stations.

The Grey River, the south-west boundary of the province, joins the Kotu-urakaoka, which it connects with Lake Brunner, and a fine grazing and agricultural district.

On the west coast may be mentioned the rivers Opawa, Wairau, and Hurunui. The Opawa joins the Wairau, which river connects the coast with the centre of the island; the land on the Wairau is very mountainous, and the district is generally better suited to sheep farming than to agriculture.

The Hurunui, the south-west boundary of the pro-

vince, after flowing for some distance through an open country, branches off in four or five streams, which are connected with the hill-lands.

The province of Nelson, which was opened in 1841, has, without any Government aid, steadily progressed. Sheep-farming has been the chief occupation of the European settlers, and wool has become a large export from the province. Nelson is also celebrated for its beer, its fruit, and mineral wealth. Coal and copper have been discovered in abundance, and latterly gold has been found: but it was uncertain last autumn, whether it was sufficiently plentiful to seduce labourers from their ordinary work. Labourers of all descriptions are required at Nelson; wages are much the same as at Auckland; shepherds and farm-labourers are perhaps even more required than other labourers.

The province is celebrated for its fine breed of horses, and the Nelson races are considered the best in the colony.

The town of Nelson, as a place of residence, is considered the most delightful in the colony, on account of the agreeable society it offers, its climate, and beautiful situation. From the very superior class of men Nelson has usually selected as Members of the General Assembly, the settlers of Nelson are looked on with great respect by an Auckland audience. The speeches of Mr. Stafford, the present Superintendent of Nelson, and leader of the Government in the House of Representatives (celebrated for his statistical knowledge, his

argumentative powers, and great coolness in debate) are always listened to with deserved attention, and would do credit to many a well-known orator in our House of Commons.

Considerable progress has been made in roads at Nelson. Bush licences for the sale of spirits have only been granted under arrangements, which, if duly carried out, will be of much service to travellers. The landlords are required to have sufficient sleeping accommodation, to provide good stabling, and when necessary, to keep ferry-boats, for the use of travellers.

Funds have been voted by the province to assist immigration, the amounts of which (as of all other votes of money) are duly published for the information of electors.

The Provincial Statistics of Nelson are the most complete of any Provincial Statistics; and if Mr. Stafford, the recent head of the general government, compiles such a general form of statistics for the colony, he will in that alone render it a great service.

CHAPTER XIII. STATISTICS OF NELSON.

CHAPTER XIII.

STATISTICS OF NELSON.

THE Statistics of Nelson, (which town was founded in 1841) published by the Superintendent, offer detailed information of provincial changes which have taken place between the years 1848 and 1854. These returns make the province to contain about eighteen millions of acres. From a comparison of the returns of one year with another it will be seen, that in all the essentials of prosperity, the progress, since 1848, has been rapid and steady. The European population in 1848 amounted to 2949 souls; in 1854 to 5858, of whom 3186 were males, and 1373 females, of this population 1820 were residents in the town of Nelson, 467 in the suburbs, 1983 in the Waimea district, 774 at Motueka, 121 at Massacre Bay, 537 at Wairau, 99 at Queen Charlotte Sound, and 57 at Amuri. During the year 1854 Nelson had received an accession of 280 emigrants from Great Britain, and 389 from British colonies. For one who left the province during the year two had arrived; 197 births had taken place, and 45 deaths.

The distribution return for the same year 1854 shows, that 557 persons were capitalists and employers of labour, 74 teachers, clerks, and overseers, 296 me-

chanics and craftsmen, 362 were employed as shepherds and agricultural labourers, 75 as carters and labourers, 62 as mariners and fishermen, and the remainder were children. Grants of money have been voted for schools. There are four day and six Sunday schools. The province is provided with seven places of worship for those who are of the Church of England, two for Roman Catholics, five for Presbyterians, six for Wesleyans, five for Baptists, and one for German Lutherans. Crime of a serious nature appears to be almost unknown in Nelson. In six years, from 1849 to 1854, only two convictions took place before the Supreme Court for offences against the person, and only five for offences against property. There are (comparatively speaking) few natives in the province, most of whom are at Motueka. These natives, well behaved and industrious, are seldom brought to court. In 1854, only two eases of drunkenness and one of felony were recorded against them.

Agricultural progress is shown to have been great. In 1844, only 893 acres were in crop; in 1854, 9434 were in crop, and 7104 fenced in: of these crops, in 1854, 2378 acres were in wheat, 1738 in oats, 809 in barley, 460 in potatoes, 514 in garden and orchards, 8 in hops, and the remainder in English grasses and other crops. In 1854, the province owned 76 horses, 918 horned cattle, 4783 sheep; while, in 1854, there were 1190 horses, 10,592 horned-cattle, and 183,231 sheep, 4401 pigs, and 10 mules.

The town of Nelson in 1848, contained 263 houses, and the rest of the province 342; in 1854, there were 345 houses in the town, and 680 in other parts. The houses are chiefly of wood. In 1854, there were 4 breweries, 4 brick kilns, 1 candle manufactory, 2 cloth or stocking looms, 3 cooperages, 1 flax mill, 2 rope walks, 1 flour mill (wind power), 3 worked by water power, and 1 by steam. There were 1 lime kiln, 3 coal mines, 1 copper mine, 2 lime quarries, 1 ship yard, 1 boat yard, 2 tanneries, 4 timber saw mills (water power), 1 steam power; in 1854 the Europeans of the province owned 19 vessels, and the Maories 24; the tonnage of which amounted to 461 tons.

During 1848, 80 ships entered the port, the total tonnage amounted to 7,088 tons; in 1854, 159 vessels entered the port, including a tonnage of 12,038 tons. The value of imports in 1848, amounted to £21,879; in 1854 to £87,158. The exports of 1848 were valued at £1,973; in 1854 at £30,038. The principal exports being wool, the value of the provincial exports will rapidly increase; it appears that the province had in 1854, exported 3131 bushels of oats, but that most of the wheat had been used at home.

The following extracts from a return of the average prices of provisions, grain and live stock may be of interest to some of my readers. In 1848 beer averaged £4 10s the hogshead, and this appears the fair average of that article between 1845 and 1850; during 1854

it averaged £6 15s, the latter price being occasioned by the high prices of the Melbourne markets. During 1854, Melbourne, owing to the large influx of strangers, consequent on the discovery of gold, acted on the markets of New Zealand in general; and those who send goods to New Zealand, had better be guided by the average prices of other years, than of 1853, 1854 or 1855. Brandy (duty paid), averaged in 1848, 17s 6d the gallon, in 1854, £1 1s the gallon.

Bread in 1848, averaged 2d the lb. in 1854, it averaged 4d; butter in 1848, was 9 1/4d per lb. in 1854, 1s 6d the lb.; candles in 1848, were 11d the lb. in 1854, 1s 4s; cheese in 1848, was 1s the lb. in 1854, 1s 4d; coffee was in 1848, 11d the lb. in 1854, 1s 5d. English coals were in 1848, £2 the ton, in 1854, £4; firewood was in 1848, 15s the cord, in 1854, £2 2s; flour was in 1848, £9 the ton, in 1854, £29.

Barley was in 1848, at 4s the bushel, in 1854 at 7s; maize in 1848, at 3s the bushel, in 1854 at 7s; oats in 1848, at 3s 6d, in 1854 at 7s 6d; wheat in 1848,: at 4s, in 1854 at 10s 8d; horned cattle were worth in 1848, £8 a head, in 1854 £14; horses in 1848, were £25 each, in 1854, £55; sheep in 1848, were £1 1s 6d each, in 1854 £1 5s; pigs of 150 lbs. weight, were in 1848, worth £1 10s each, in 1854 £2 10s; bacon sold in 1848, at 9d the lb. in 1854 at 1s 6d; meat was in 1848, at 6d the lb. in 1854 at 9d; lamp oil in 1848, was valued at 5s l1d the gallon, in, 1854 at 8s; milk during 1848, was 3 1/2d the quart, in 1854 6d the quart.

Potatoes were in 1848, £3 3s the ton, in 1854 £12 the ton; rice was in 1848, 2 1/2d the lb. in 1854 4d; salt in 1848, was 1d the lb. in 1854 1 1/4d; soap was in 1848, 3 1/2d the pound, in 1854 6d; starch was in 1848, 9d the lb. in 1854 11 1/2d; sugar was 4d the lb. each year; loaf sugar was in 1848, 9d, in 1854 8d the lb.; tea was 3s in 1848, 2s 6d in 1854; tobacco (duty paid) was in 1848 2s 6d, in 1854 3s 3d the lb.; wine was (duty paid) in 1848, 12s the gallon, in 1854 15s 6d.

These returns give a general average of the value of provisions, &c. in the other provinces. The year 1848 shows a fair average of colonial prices before the discovery of gold in Australia, and 1854 shows the average of prices during subsequent years. It is generally considered, that from the present time, prices will more resemble those of 1848 than of 1854. The Melbourne markets, which have so ruled New Zealand for the last five years, will in all probability soon be at least sufficiently supplied from England and America, with all articles of consumption, excepting grain, flour and potatoes, and these crops she will grow at home, to a far greater extent than hitherto.

The return of the average rate of wages is given as follows: in 1848 female domestic servants, received £8 per annum, in 1854 they received £25. In 1848 males received £30 per annum, in 1854 £50, the average of day labour in 1848, is quoted at 2s 6d, in 1854 at 7s 6d; in 1848 tradesmen received 5s, in 1854 9s 6d a day.

The rates of wages are, I consider, for 1848, below the average of what they will be for some years; for 1854 rather, but not much, above the average.

The revenue of the province for 1848 amounted to £2157 7s 8d; for 1854 to £32,987 10s 4 1/2d. For 1854 £2039 15s 4d was voted for emigration purposes; £1500 for steam navigation; nearly £2000 for public works; £180 for schools; and £72 10s 4d for exploration of lines of road.

The customs' revenue had increased from 1848 to 1854 from £1593 5s 6d to £9411 10s 3d. The total quantity of land disposed of within the province to 1854 amounted to 273,332 acres. During 1854 the average price realised for town lots at per acre was £59, being an increase on preceding years of upwards of £30 per acre; of rural land 48,979 acres were sold during 1854 by public auction, and 32,075 acres at fixed prices of 10s, or 5s per acre.

In 1854, 1,008,600 acres of land were occupied as sheep and cattle runs, for which Government received a rental of £624 14s 1d. Land was thus occupied in the following manner, viz.: – 11,600 acres in the Waimea district, 127,000 in the Wairau, 4000 at Kaituna, 50,000 at Waihopai, 55,000 at Omaka, 49,000 at Awatere, 52,000 at Flaxbourne, 26,000 at Upton Downs, 82,000 at Fairfield Downs, 10,000 at Massacre Bay, and 542,000 at Amuri.

The extracts from returns already quoted have sufficiently shown the position and prospects of Nelson in

1854; since which time, it is said that Nelson had continued to advance in, at least, an equal ratio with her former progress. It only remains to add the land regulations, which will be found fully to bear out the character which Mr. Stafford, the Superintendent, and his Council have long held for ability and liberality.

The following remarks made by Mr. Fox, who speaks with great judgment and fairness, on the provinces of "Wellington and Nelson, picture most forcibly the pleasures of the climate of Nelson.

"The principal charm of Nelson is its climate; which, owing to the comparative absence of wind, and the extreme clearness of the air, is superior, probably, to any other in the colony, I have known the sky without a cloud by day or night for a month together, even in the winter; and in that season geraniums, oenotheras, picotees, and other English summer flowers, will be found in full blossom. Yet the heat of summer is never oppressive, the thermometer seldom higher than 80 deg. or 82 deg., owing, probably, to a light sea-breeze setting in regularly every day, about 10 a.m., and blowing till sunset, when it changes to the exactly opposite quarter."

CHAPTER XIV. DIGEST OF NELSON LAND REGULATIONS.

CHAPTER XIV.

DIGEST OF NELSON LAND REGULATIONS.

1. COUNTRY land is divided into rural and pasture land. Prior to sale all rural and pasture land must be declared open for purchase by the Superintendent in the Provincial Gazette, one month previous to sale.

2. The upset price of rural land, when offered at auction, shall be from 10s to 20s an acre.

3. The upset price of pasture land shall be from 5s to 10s an acre.

4. With regard to rural lands and pasture lands, the fitness or unfitness for the purpose of tillage rather than position, shall determine to which class they shall belong.

5. Land not advertised may be applied for, and the Superintendent may offer it for sale at the auction next after application made for it.

6. Persons applying for land in this manner must deposit at the rate of 1s an acre on sending in their application to the Survey office. If such land be not purchased at auction, the deposit shall be forfeited.

7. Purchasers at auction shall deposit one-tenth of the money hid, and the remainder of the money one month after sale, or deposit will he forfeited.

8. Land submitted to auction, and unsold, may be bought within six months, at the upset price, or the highest price offered at auction for it.

Naval and Military Clauses.

9. Naval or military officers on full or half pay, either of the Queen's or East India Company's service, who shall retire to settle in New Zealand, shall be entitled to receive a money certificate to the amount of £300, on signing and depositing with the Commissioner of Crown Lands a memorandum that they engage to reside within the province of Nelson for two years.

10. Non-commissioned officers and privates, and petty officers and seamen, discharged with good-conduct certificates in New Zealand, shall one year after they have resided within the province, he entitled to money certificates to the following amount: –

Non-commissioned Officers and Petty Officers £60.

Privates, Marines, and Seamen.....£30.

Which certificates shall be received instead of money in payment for land.

Licensed Runs.

1. Persons requiring licences to occupy sheep or cattle runs, shall lodge with the Commissioner of the

district in which the runs are situated, a description of the runs required, and a deposit in cash, according to the following scale, viz.: –

£15 for under 10,000 acres

£30 for under 20,000 acres

£50 for over 20,000 acres.

2. Applications shall be filed, registered and open to public inspection, and a description of runs applied for, with applicants' names, published in the Provincial Gazette without delay.

3. Objection must be made to such applications within three months from the notification issued in the Gazette.

4. Applications made for same runs on same day shall be decided by lot.

5. Rents for runs shall be at the following rates, viz.: –

For first seven years of occupation, at the rate of one halfpenny per acre per annum.

For the remaining seven years, at the rate of one penny per acre per annum.

6. Occupants of runs have a pre-emptive right over 80 acres: the remainder of runs are at any time liable to be sold.

7. Occupants of runs are required to stock their runs with at least one breeding ewe to every 20 acres, or one cow to every 120 acres; and to maintain at least that proportion of breeding stock on the run.

The Superintendent may, under certain restrictions,

reserve land for school, religious, and other purposes, likely to be of advantage to the public.

Rural land sections shall not be less than 10 acres, nor more than 150 acres.

Sections of pasture land shall not be less than 80 acres, nor more than 400 acres. 14

14 This does not prohibit persons from buying more than one section.

CHAPTER XV. CANTERBURY.

CHAPTER XV.

CANTERBURY.

THE province of Canterbury, the middle province of the Middle Island, is bounded on the north by the southern boundary of the province of Nelson; on the east by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; on the west by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; and on the south by the river Waitangi to its source, thence by a right line running to the source of the river Awarua, thence by the river Awarua to its mouth.

The province of Canterbury returns five members to the House of Representatives; viz. one for the town of Christchurch, two for the Christchurch county district, one for the town of Lyttelton, and one for Akaroa district.

The Provincial Council consists of twelve members, viz. three for Christchurch town, four for Christchurch district, three for Lyttelton, and two for Akaroa district.

The Christchurch district comprises all the land in the province not comprised in the town of Christchurch,

in the town of Lyttelton district, or in the Akaroa district.

The town of Lyttelton district comprises the site of the town of Lyttelton.

The Akaroa district comprises all that portion of Banks's Peninsula, which is bounded on the north, south, and east by the sea, and on the west by a right line drawn from a point on the northern coast of Banks's Peninsula, midway between the eastern head of Port Levy and the western head of Pigeon Bay, due north and south, across Banks's Peninsula, until it meets the sea on the south coast of the Peninsula.

The province of Canterbury, peopled by the Canterbury Company in 1849, may be said to have been started under more advantageous auspices than any other province of the Colony; the province has subsequently been retarded by the high price of Government land, which was for some years sold at a minimum of £3 an acre, and at the present day has only been reduced to £2 an acre; a sum people are not disposed to give, when they can buy equally good land in the other province at the rate of 10s an acre – in other respects the province ought to succeed, as it has in land 12,000,000 acres, of which 4,000,000 acres are available for all purposes. Its leaders are highly educated, active men, and no less than 3000 well selected emigrants were sent out, in a single year, between 1850 and 1851. The land is level, and easy to plough, being nearly all grass-land, and the province has a good

port, that of Lyttelton, easy of access and egress to vessels of at least 500 or 600 tons.

On its east coast Canterbury rejoices in several rapid rivers and some good harbours: between the north-east boundary, the Hurunui, and the Waitangi and the south-east boundary, may be mentioned the river Ashley, the entrance of which is I believe open to small vessels; and the Courtenay, which flows through a fine, broad tract of excellent land, feeding by its streams the Wilberforce plains, and losing itself amongst the central ranges of the island. On the north of Banks's Peninsula is Port Cooper, Port Levy, and Pigeon Bay; in the first of which the town of Lyttelton is situated. On the south-east side of the Peninsula, Akaroa Harbour contains a large settlement, south of which are the rivers Selwin, Rakaia or Cholmondeley, Ashburton, Wakara, Alford, and the Wanganui; on most of which sheep and cattle runs have been situated, and many excellent homesteads formed.

Banks's Peninsula is densely wooded, the remainder of the occupied districts is scarce of wood and almost dependent on the Peninsula for its supply,

Mr. Fox, wanting in this instance in his usual discretion, compares Canterbury to Auckland, on account of its want of wood, whereas Auckland has more available wood than any province of New Zealand, and the price of firewood is less at Auckland than at any other town. As I have heard it from other settlers, on

whose word, I can rely, I believe Canterbury is generally very deficient in timber; its wide plains are consequently unprotected from the winds, which often prevail in a manner peculiarly disagreeable to immigrants who come from warmer and more protected parts of the colony. The want of timber of course renders the east coasts of the province less picturesque than other parts of the New Zealand Islands. In point of scenery the parts of Canterbury which are best known cannot be compared with either Nelson or Otago.

The east coast is separated from the west by a difficult range of hills, the country between which and the west coast is little known. Amongst these hill districts it is said there is much fine scenery. Mount Cook, the highest mountain in the district, is upwards of 12,000 feet high. It must not be supposed from what I have said that the province has not advanced; since the Company first sent out emigrants much progress has been made, as the following reference to census returns for March, 1854, as compared with subsequent returns will show. In 1854 the population of both sexes amounted to 3895; 7221 acres of land were fenced in, 2920 of which were under crop. The province owned 596 horses, 6363 head of cattle, 99,245 sheep, and 4391 pigs; the province exported in wool, produce, and timber to the value of £15,337. In 1856 the population numbered 5347, 4266 of whom are English, 483 Scotch, 291 Irish, 62 French,

66 Germans, and 179 of other nations. Stock was computed as follows, viz.: 1189 horses, 12,434 horned cattle, 220,781 sheep, and 4996 pigs. Regarding land, 70,148 acres had been purchased, 12,261 fenced in, 6462 were in crop, viz.: 3171 in wheat, 278 in barley, 730 in oats, 1 in maize, 815 in artificial grasses, 242 in garden and orchard, and 254 in other crops.

The customs' revenue for 1855 amounted to £8669. The value of imported goods amounted to £95,856 10s 6d; of exported goods to £42,650 5s 6d.

Canterbury has five Episcopalian and two Wesleyan churches.

The rate of wages for 1855 is quoted from Mr. Fitton's work: agricultural labourers 7s a day; working at piece-work the rate about 12s a day; carpenters 10s a day; stockmen £40 per annum; dairymaids £20 to £30 per annum; hut-keepers £35 per annum; shepherds £35 to £50 per annum; maidservants £15 to £25 per annum. Board and lodging are given in addition to yearly wages.

Provisions were quoted, flour at from 35s to 40s per 100 lbs.; bread 4 1/2d per lb.; butter 2s 3d per lb.; beef and mutton 8d to 9d per lb.; oats 8s 6d per bushel: firewood 30s per cord.

Mr. Fitton, who appears to be well acquainted with all that relates to Canterbury, further states that, "information respecting assisted passages, and the settlement, generally, can be obtained at the Canterbury Emigration Office, 32, Charing Cross, London,

by application to Mr. Harman, the emigration agent." We have shown that much progress has been made; but considering the numbers of English settlers sent out by the Company, the little trouble required to bring the grass and flax land into cultivation, the first class quality of the land, and the high prices realised for the wheat and potatoes from the first year the land was cultivated to the present day, the progress has not been what it ought to be, and many of the original pilgrims are worse off than when they first arrived at the land of promise. Those who have suffered most by the comparatively speaking high price of land, have been gentlemen embarked in agriculture with small capital, who were obliged to employ labour. Labouring men, (who earned their £50 or £60 a year, as many have done, working as they pleased, and as some will admit "not half as hard" as they had to do at home, where they only received 2s a day and found themselves) have all succeeded at Canterbury. The price of land was of small consequence to them. Presently labour will fall, and the former workmen will be able to employ others, and probably buy land at a cheaper rate than their former masters had paid for it; those masters having been ruined by the price of land and the waste of their servants. Capitalists will hesitate how they continue to employ capital only to the advantage of others. Sheep and cattle which require a smaller number of labourers to look after them, have yielded in many

instances a good return; the climate and land is well suited to stock of all sorts; but to promote the general welfare of the many, a province must do more than feed sheep, land must be occupied by men, and other exports than wool alone encouraged.

Sheep, cattle, and horses, have for the last four years been quoted at very high figures; it is generally thought that a fall must soon take place. Sheep have been averaging 30s a head; it is almost idle to speculate as to what they will be worth; but from what I remember of Australia before the gold discoveries, I do not believe that sheep will average more than from 12s to 16s a-head at Canterbury, Nelson, or Otago, after gold digging in Australia is reduced to a regular system, and the labour market reverts to its natural state. The Australian labour market will of course, like all other markets, be in time supplied according to its demand.

The following extracts from a letter, dated 9th October, 1855, written by Mr. C. H. Brown, may be valuable to gentlemen about to engage in sheep farming at either of the colonies. This letter is published at Rivington's, by Archdeacon Robert Bateman Paul of Canterbury, to whose work I refer those who are about to make Canterbury their home. Mr. Brown recommends those who are about to form a station, to be at the station two months before their sheep are brought there, so as to make arrangements for them. He recommends the owner of sheep to take with him

one shepherd, a hut-keeper, a couple of men for contract work (splitters and fencers, if there is a bush, or good spadesmen if not), a bullock, a dray, with a team of six bullocks at least, one or two good saddle horses, and a flock of 1000 or 1500 ewes, a good stock of tools, and two or three months' provisions (flour, salt meat, biscuits, tea, sugar, and tobacco; blankets and clothes, candles and matches are the necessaries requisite to take with the dray). The site selected for a homestead should be near wood and water, where a sheltered spot can be fenced in for a garden. After the tents or warres have been put up, a sheep-yard must be constructed of wattle-hurdles or of sods. Every man hired should be made to sign an agreement to make himself generally useful. A wool-shed will afterwards have to be formed, and tarpaulins will be found useful to cover in the wool-shed, and for many other purposes; wool-sheds should be on a clear open space of clean grass, near to water and wood. A hurdle-yard should be kept specially for shearing. The permanent drafting-yard should be some way from the shearing-yard to avoid dust. After the rough work of the station is completed, a dipping-place with boiler should be made. Regard to natural boundaries of sea, swamp, cliff, or thick bush should be had in the selection of a new station.

The following memorandum of the probable expenses attending the formation of a station is given: –

1000 ewes at 30s . . . £1500

Dray and bullock train . . . 230

Two saddle horses .... 140

First year's stores and tools . . 300

Extra cash for expenses of first 3 years 700

25 rams at £5.....125

£2995

I believe the prices quoted will be far above the average prices in the Middle Island in years to come. I would not recommend any one to expend more than two-thirds of his capital in forming a new station, and I consider it desirable that two brothers should join in forming a station.

The following regulations for assisted passages to Canterbury have been published by Mr. Harman, the Provisional Emigration Agent, from his Office, 32, Charing Cross, London. 15

1. Assisted passages will be by the Provincial Government to bona fide labouring men, country mechanics, their wives and families, and female domestic servants.

2. The Provincial Government will provide one half of the passage money.

3. The other half must be paid by the emigrants in cash in England, or bills will be taken for the money to be paid in the colony, where the agent is satisfied

that the applicant may be depended on, within one year from his arrival in the province.

4. The rate of passage-money will be £22 per adult, and children under fourteen years one half of the amount. Infants under one year of age are not charged for.

5. No person above the age of fifty will receive an assisted passage.

6. Emigrants must pay their own expenses to the port, and up to the period of embarkation funds must be provided by the emigrant to meet expense of dock charges for luggage, assumed at from 1s to 2s per package.

The following articles are the least which will be deemed sufficient for the voyage: –

For each Bed. – 1 Mattrass, 1 bolster, 2 blankets, 6 sheets, 1 coverlid.

For Males. – 6 Shirts, 6 pair of socks, 2 pair of shoes, 2 complete suits of outside clothing, 1 hair brush and comb.

For Females. – 6 Shifts, 2 flannel petticoats, 6 pair of stockings, 2 pair of shoes, 2 gowns, 1 hair brush and comb.

For each Person. – 6 Towels, 3lbs. of marine soap, a knife and fork, a deep tin or pewter dish, a spoon, a pint drinking mug, a hook pot.

The same description of winter and summer clothing as is used at home, will be found suited to the voyage and the colony.

Provisions, cooking utensils, medicine, and medical attendance, are supplied abroad.

The owner's name should be marked on each box.

Passenger's luggage must not measure more than ten cubic feet.

Each person must have one or two canvass bags, as boxes will be kept below in the hold.

15 This office is closed at present.

CHAPTER XVI. DIGEST OF CANTERBURY LAND REGULATIONS.

CHAPTER XVI.

DIGEST OF CANTERBURY LAND REGULATIONS.

1. Town land shall be sold by public auction.

2. Thirty days' notice shall be given in the Provincial Gazette, by the Superintendent, prior to sale.

3. Ten per cent. of value of land shall be paid on day of sale, and the remainder of the money within one week after sale.

4. Rural lands shall be open for sale at a uniform price of 40s. an acre.

5. No section of rural land less than twenty acres shall be sold.

6. On payment of purchase money, applicants shall receive a licence to occupy land.

7. After land has been surveyed, licence holders shall receive Crown grants.

8. Persons who shall have completed building any bridge, or have made any public road, or main drain, shall be entitled to receive one acre of land free for every £4. they have expended in such public works.

9. Soldiers who have been discharged as unfit for service, consequent on having been engaged in the Russian war, shall, on production of evidence to that effect before the Land Board, be entitled to a grant of thirty acres of land. Discharged soldiers must make

application for land within three years from their discharge. The widows of soldiers, who became widows through the Russian war are entitled to a like grant.

10. Applicants for pasture licences are required to describe the boundaries and extent of runs required, and to return the number of sheep and cattle they undertake to keep on their runs.

11. Occupants of runs are required, at least, to provide one breeding ewe for every 20 acres, and one breeding cow for every 120 acres.

12. Pees for licences are as follows, viz. for every run of less than 1000 acres, 20s for every 100 acres. For every run of between 1000 and 5000 acres, two pence per acre for the first 1000 acres, and one penny per acre for every additional acre.

13. For runs of 5000 acres or more, one farthing per acre for the first and second year, one halfpenny per acre for the third and fourth years, three farthings for the fifth and every subsequent year.

14. It is intended to renew pasture licences from year to year, till the land be required by Government, or sold.

15. Occupants of runs can claim a preemptive right over 5 per cent of acreage of their runs; due notice is given them, that they may assert or decline this right.

16. Timber licences at the rate of 10s per month or £5. per annum, are granted to persons, to authorise them to cut timber on Government ground.

CHAPTER XVII. OTAGO.

CHAPTER XVII.

OTAGO.

THE Province of Otago, the southern province of the Middle Island, is bounded on the north by the southern boundary of the province of Canterbury; on the east by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; on the west by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto; on the south by the coast line, including the islands adjacent thereto, with the exception of Stewart's island, its adjacent islands, and Solander Island, and the island of Ruapuke.

The province returns three members to the House of Representatives.

The Provincial Council consists of nine members: three of whom are returned for the town of Dunedin, the chief town of the province, and six for the county district.

Otago, first occupied in 1847, was founded by an association of "lay members of the Free Church of Scotland."

Dunedin is situated in Port Chalmers; the last harbour on the south-east of the Middle Island calculated to receive large ships.

The outer harbour, which opens to the northern end,

between Tairoa Head and Heyward Point, is about seven miles in length; and at the end of this is the port town named Port Chalmers. The inner or lower harbour is about six miles in length, and at the end of this harbour is the town of Dunedin.

Between this port and the south-east point of the province are the rivers Taieri, the Tohomoriro, the Molyneux, and two or three small streams; of which the Molyneux is a fine, available river, navigable for large boats for fifty miles, and for small boats and canoes some miles further, through a long line of beautiful well wooded country. Eight miles from the mouth of the Molyneux the river breaks into two streams, which flow apart for about seven or eight miles, round an island named " Inch Clutha." The hill lands which slope towards the Molyneux are well grassed, and admirably suited for sheep walks. The land generally from the north boundary of the province is available for sheep, cattle, and horses. The land on Taieri Valley, and the low lands of the Molyneux, are better adapted to agricultural purposes than most of the Otago land hitherto occupied.

Between the south-east and south-west points of the province are the Bluff Harbour, Omaki Harbour, and New River, navigable for some distance: and from the south-west point to the north-west boundary, (Grey's River) are Port Preservation, Dusky Bay, Breakfast Cove, Doubtful Harbour, Milford Haven, and some other harbours. The coast is rugged, often perpen-

dicular, and in many cases the water so deep in these harbours as to prevent anchorage. The lofty range of hills which divides the east from the west coast of the Canterbury Province, continues its line nearly to the south of the island. I believe there is no settlement on the west side of the province, and little is known of the country.

On the north boundary line of Otago is a fine lake "Wanaka," a track from the Molyneux leads to this lake, passing in its way the smaller lake of Wakatipu.

Labour at Otago has hitherto not been so high as at other settlements, which may be attributed to want of capital, or the care taken of capital by those who own it.

There are few natives in the province, and Government owns most, if not all of the land.

The climate which, from the province of Auckland, has been gradually getting colder, here becomes coldest.

The provincial land regulations of Canterbury, from the high minimum price fixed, made land difficult to be obtained, while the regulations of Otago are calculated to deter people from buying land, which they are not allowed to sell, till they have kept it some years, and perhaps ruined themselves in cultivating it. It is a pity that Otago cannot borrow some of the better climate of Nelson, and with the climate imbibe a few practical ideas from Nelson's talented Superintendent, and his liberal council.

Should Otago ever be governed in a liberal and judicious manner, the province will rapidly advance, and eventually be, I believe, the most successful settlement in New Zealand, after that of Auckland.

The climate, although cold and more like that of the milder parts of England than any other part of New Zealand, is far superior to England's most temperate counties. The land is generally good, and in many parts excellent, the province is well-wooded, well-watered, and land is available for any purposes to a greater amount than in the other provinces.

The scenery about Dunedin is said, in beauty, to resemble the scenery around the Trosacks. Lovers of picturesque scenery can scarcely go wrong in this province.

The Highlanders have every thing to remind them of home, in climate and scenery. The old clannish feeling is said to be kept up in every way at Otago; woe be unto any intruder who may seek for office there.

I am not in possession of census returns for Otago; but by Mr. Fitton's book it appears that in 1849 there was a population of 745 souls, and last year of 2557 souls; 1408 of whom are males, and 1149 females. The extent of land in crop in 1849 was only 42 acres; in 1856 it amounted to 3168 acres, of which 1077 acres were in wheat, 728 in oats, 9 1/2 in barley, 276 3/4 in potatoes, 37 3/4 turnips,

274 1/2 fallow, 711 3/4 pasture, 52 in garden and fruit trees, and 331 1/2 fenced but not cultivated.

In 1849 there were 35 horses, 375 horned cattle, 2430 sheep, and 50 goats; there were in 1856, 435 horses, 6511 horned cattle, 58,902 sheep, and 251 goats.

Otago offers a better prospect to newly arrived emigrants for sheep farming than any other settlement, as there is more unoccupied grass land there than at any other part of New Zealand.

The following table will show the comparative wealth of the provinces of the Middle Island.

1855. Customs. . . £ s. d.

Nelson . . . . 10,588 10 4

Canterbury . . 8,613 17 10

Otago . . . . 5,874 12 7

CHAPTER XVIII. DIGEST OF OTAGO LAND REGULATIONS.

CHAPTER XVIII.

DIGEST OF OTAGO LAND REGULATIONS.

1. RURAL lands are to be sold at a uniform rate of 10s per acre, with the following restrictions, viz: previous to obtaining Crown grants, occupants of land, who have paid at the rate of 10s per acre, are required to expend 40s per acre within four years, in houses, fencing, and general improvements; their own labour is to be held as part payment of this 40s.

2. When two or more applications be made for the same land on one day, the land is to be sold at auction to the highest bidder, amongst those only who have applied for it.

3. No less than 10 acres can be sold.

4. Land is to be surveyed in rectangular blocks, having at least twice the depth to road or river frontage.

5. The Superintendent may reserve land from sale and set it aside for public uses.

6. Leases may be granted of not less than 5 acres, nor more than 80 acres, of mineral lands, under certain restrictions, for a period of 21 years.

7. Persons applying for pasture licences shall deposit

£20 with the Waste lands board. This sum shall be forfeited unless the run applied for be stocked within 6 months from the day on which the lease be granted.

8. No person shall depasture cattle or sheep on waste land without a licence.

9. During the month of September each year, returns of all cattle and sheep depastured shall be sent by owners of cattle and occupants of runs to the Waste lands board.

Persons who make false returns are subject to a penalty of £50, at least, and £400 at most, on conviction.

10. For depastured stock, owners hare to pay as follows, viz:

For every head of great cattle, sixpence per annum.

For ditto small cattle, one penny per annum.

This money is to be paid on or before the 1st of December every year.

11. When land is proclaimed as within "a hundred," wardens shall be elected by owners of depasture licences.

Ten shillings per annum is to be paid for a licence on or before the 1st of January each year.

Licence owners only may depasture cattle within hundred.

12. Wardens may levy on cattle and sheep at the rate of not more than

For every head of great cattle, 5s.

For every head of small cattle, 1s.

This money is to maintain public pounds with, and for payment of salaries of rangers, &c. &c.

13. Licensed occupiers of runs have a preemptive right over 80 acres of land at one of the stations on the runs, and to 10 acres at each of the other stations, at the rate of 10s an acre. They are required to exercise their right within one month from the time notice be given them to that effect.

When land be sold to other persons than the occupiers of runs, three months notice is to be allowed for occupants to remove their property.

14. Licensed runs are to be applied for in the same manner as in the Nelson and Canterbury Provinces.

15. Runs must be stocked within six months, under penalty of being forfeited.

16. For any number of sheep up to 500, a run may be granted calculated to depasture any number not exceeding 5000 sheep, for every additional hundred

between 500 and 1000 for 500 additional sheep

" 1000 and 3000 " 400 additional sheep

" 3000 and 5000 " 200 additional sheep

" 5000 and 10,000 " 100 additional sheep

and in no case shall a run be granted capable of feeding more than 25,000 sheep.

17. In estimating runs for great cattle, one head of such cattle shall be rated as six sheep.

18. Licence fees for runs are as follows, viz: at least £5 per annum, and every occupier of a run, shall pay annually in addition a further licence fee, at the

rate of one pound sterling for every 1000 sheep, above 5000 which the run so occupied shall be estimated to be capable of containing; and in the same proportion for great cattle, six sheep being rated as one head of great cattle.

19. Licence fees are granted for fourteen years, subject to the same rules as at Nelson and Canterbury, viz: that right to run may be forfeited if the land be required for agricultural or other purposes.

20. Licences to cut timber on Government land may be granted at the rate of £1 for each licence per annum.

21. Land licensed for this purpose may at any time be sold.

At Otago, as at all the other provinces, the fee for obtaining a crown grant is £1.

The usual colonial charge by lawyers for giving parchment transfers of property is £2 2s. Landed or house property can be registered and money borrowed thereon.

CHAPTER XIX. THE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT AND POLITICAL QUESTIONS CONSIDERED.

CHAPTER XIX.

THE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT AND POLITICAL QUESTIONS CONSIDERED.

FROM a perusal of the preceding chapters, emigrants will, I venture to hope, have gained such a knowledge of the political and geographical features of New Zealand, as will enable them, previous to their arrival, in the colony, to form a tolerably correct opinion of its present state and the requirements necessary for its future progress.

They will have learnt that the constitution offers a political existence, which many of them have never known at home, where they have only enjoyed the political right of being taxed. It behoves them to consider well, how they may use their new born privileges, so as to promote the interest of their adopted country, and leave their children properties improved by public works, and as free as possible of the taxes and rates from which they have fled. They will do well to remember, and while remembering, to reflect how greatly those taxes have been increased by unprofitable wars, and the creation of unnecessary government places. They will do well to watch with care the proceedings of the members they elect, to see that no useless places are created, and that the right

men only are put into such places as are created. A constant jealousy in these matters may, it is to be hoped, render in future years, agitation for administrative reforms unnecessary. Let electors consider that at home the present urgent call for administrative reform is, in a great degree, to be attributed to the corruption attending elections. Electors have allowed themselves to be bribed, members have too often repaid themselves their expenses out of the public purse; while ministers, to retain their majority, have had to create places for men unfitted to hold them. The rule at home once was for a Minister of the Crown to ask, not whether a man was the right man for the place, but by whom was he recommended, and to what party did he belong.

In New Zealand already, in some provinces, bribery has been practised at elections, and unnecessary appointments have been made. While in the General Assembly, one of the most important questions, the question of the seat of Government, has, it is well known, been considered, and voted on by some members, more with reference to individual local interest than for the general welfare of the Colony. Regarding the seat of Government, my readers will have seen that Nature intended the two islands of New Zealand for two governments. Sir John Pakington, in giving the present constitution, made provision only for one General and six Provincial Governments; this arrangement may perhaps go on for a few years, but eventually Nature will have it her own way. Each

island will have its own seat of Government, when a change takes place probably Canterbury, the centre province of the Middle Island, may be the seat of Government of the Middle Island; it will be the centre of the population of that island; it is, comparatively speaking, free from earthquakes, and it is often more accessible to ships than Wellington.

In the Northern Island, Auckland must always be the chief commercial town, and as the far-seeing navigator, Captain Cook, foretold, the Hauraki Gulf, on which the eastern harbour of Auckland is situated, will in all probability continue to hold the capital and seat of Government.

Captain Cook, previous to expressing his opinion in favour of the Hauraki Gulf as the proper site for the capital, had visited Cook's Straits and other parts of New Zealand; who could be more capable of forming an opinion upon such a subject? Certainly, few are likely to speak or write on the subject at the present time with so little bias as Captain Cook, and it must be remembered that this opinion has been backed up by Captain Hobson, R.N., Captain Graham, R.N., Captain Hoseason, and I believe by Captain Drury, and many other Commanders of the Royal Navy, who are personally acquainted with the different provinces.

To the assertions I have made on this subject I may offer the following reasons, viz. 1st, Auckland is the centre of at least two-thirds of the entire European and native population of the two islands; 2ndly, its harbours receive fully more than two-thirds of the entire

coasting trade; 3rdly, it furnishes exports valued at more than one-third of the whole exports of the two islands, and receives at least one-half of the whole imports.

Lastly, on account of the large native population in the province, the Governor and his Executive Council could never be absent for any length of time from the province without risk of native disturbances, which if allowed to continue unchecked would materially retard the progress of the whole colony. As the chief military position Auckland excels every other locality in the Northern Island, being of all the towns alone enabled, by means of its eastern and western harbours, to send reinforcements on the one side to the Bay of Islands, on the other to New Plymouth, within a reasonable time the two quarters where, at present, troops are most required. The east coast, the Frith of the Thames, and the Waikato, are the next places where, on account of their large native populations, troops are likely to be called for, and from no other town in New Zealand could assistance be so readily dispatched to them as from Auckland. Wellington, which has been spoken of at times, by those connected with the New Zealand Company, as the proper place for the seat of Government, is in fact far less suited for the purpose than either Canterbury, Nelson, or Auckland. At Wellington troops are, comparatively speaking, out of the way of the native population; and no public documents could be safely preserved there, as owing to the earthquakes, stone and

brick buildings are impracticable, and the risk of fire renders wooden houses manifestly unfit for such a deposit. I have heard people of all provinces in the colony speak of Auckland, Nelson and Canterbury as fit places for the seat of Government, but I never met with any one unconnected with politics or Wellington interest, who considered this last an appropriate place.

To the reasons already assigned in favour of Auckland, may be added the important one, that in memory of the oldest man living, earthquakes have never been felt in its neighbourhood. New Plymouth has no harbour; Nelson is badly situated in regard to the majority of the natives, and like Wellington suffers from earthquakes; Canterbury is quite out of the way of the native population, and Otago out of the way of everything and everybody.

The following return of the revenue of the colony for 1855, will bear out what I have said of the comparative wealth of Auckland.

Proportion contributed – £ s. d.

By the Province of Auckland . 116,868 13 4

" Wellington . 46,655 12 3

" Nelson . . 30,002 10 7

" Canterbury . 17,626 18 5

" New Plymouth 7,898 0 7

" Otago . . 7,865 10 6

General Agents' receipts . . 438 4 11

£227,355 10 7

Thus the revenue of Auckland is nearly equal to the revenue of all the other provinces; and if sufficient money be obtained to buy land from the natives, the revenue will increase at a greater ratio than it has yet done.

CHAPTER XX. WANTS OF THE COLONY – THE NEW TARIFF.

CHAPTER XX.

WANTS OF THE COLONY – THE NEW TARIFF.

AMONGST the most important public matters for the consideration of colonists, and in which it behoves all to interest themselves, are the founding good schools; the acquirement of a sufficiency of land from the natives; the rendering of the land available for purchase, by having it at once surveyed and opened up by roads and bridges; and the furtherance of improved postal arrangements by increased steam communication with the neighbouring colonies, and interprovincial communication with the inland districts.

Main roads for the transit of stock should be formed from Auckland to the Bay of Islands, New Plymouth, and Wellington, in the Northern Island; and from Wellington, through the provinces of Canterbury and Otago, in the Middle Island; as has already been stated, these roads can only be carried out with the assistance of the native population.

The acquirement of sufficient land in each province, and a like minimum price of land, would conduce to the welfare of the colony. People who return to the

neighbouring colonies, unable readily to obtain land at a reasonable price in any one province, give a bad name to New Zealand. On this account its progress has been impeded, and it will take much careful and federal legislation to retrieve the errors of the past.

No set of men in the colony are more likely to advance its interests in these matters than the members of the present Government, whose leader, Mr. Stafford, has done so much for Nelson, his own province, and the members of whose Government unite the collective talent of Auckland, Canterbury, and New Plymouth. By late accounts from Auckland, the present Government has passed a bill to sanction half a million of money being borrowed, 16 with which to pay off the Company's debt, and to buy land for the province of Auckland.

The new customs' tariff will be found to offer every inducement to those engaged in agricultural pursuits. This tariff fully evinces the liberal spirit in which Mr. Stafford desires to govern the colony.

The following articles are admitted duty free, viz. –

1. All articles for the supply of Her Majesty's Forces.

2. Animals, living.

3. Bricks, Slates, and Stones for building purposes and Mill-stones.

4. Boats.

5. Books printed, not being account-books.

6. Bottles full of an article subject to duty.

7. Bullion and Coin.

8. Casks empty.

9. Coal.

10. Corn, grain, meal, flour, bread and biscuit.

11. Gunpowder, fit only for blasting purposes.

12. Iron, pig.

13. Machinery, viz. – Brick and tile-making machines, draining, flax and hay, and wool-pressing, straw and turnip cutting, reaping, thrashing and winnowing machines, steam engines and apparatus for ditto, and machinery for mills including hand flour-mills.

14. Manure.

15. Oil, blubber and bone, the produce of fish, or marine animals.

16. Plants, bulbs, trees and seeds.

17. Passengers' personal baggage.

18. Ploughs and harrows.

19. Specimens illustrative of natural history.

20. Tobacco for sheepwash, subject to its being rendered unfit for human consumption, and to such regulations as the Governor shall from time to time prescribe on that head; on the following, the duty is as stated, viz.: –

1. Ale, beer, cider and perry in wood, at s. d. the gallon.........0 6

Cigars, and snuff at the lb. . . . . . . . .3 0

3. Coffee, chicory and chocolate at the lb. 0 2

4. Iron, rod, bar, bolt, hoop and sheet iron, not otherwise manufactured, the cwt........1 0

5. Salt at the cwt........ 1 0

6. Spirits and strong waters of every kind, sweetened or otherwise, of any strength not exceeding the strength of proof by Sykes' Hydrometer, and so on in proportion for any greater or less strength than the strength of proof, the gallon........8 0

7. Sugar; raw and refined of all sorts, treacle and molasses, at the lb........0 0 1/2

8. Tea, at the lb........0 3

9. Tobacco, at the lb........1 3

10. Wine, the gallon, in wood and bottle . .3 0

11. Wood, not manufactured, the cubic foot 0 2

12. Boots, shoes, hats, apparel, jewellery, cutlery, clocks, watches, plated ware, silk, woollen, cotton, linen bags manufactured (except corn and gunny bags and woolpacks) sperm, stearine and wax candles, (measuring outside the packages) at the cubic foot........3 0

13. All other goods, wares and merchandise, measuring outside the packages, the cubic foot........2 0

16 The Government profits on land are so great, that this debt would soon be paid.

CHAPTER XXI. CONCLUSION.

CHAPTER XXI.

CONCLUSION.

IN conclusion, it may not be irrelevant to offer a few remarks on the advantages held out by New Zealand as compared with other colonies. These observations will in great part be little else than a recapitulation of what has already been written, and relate principally to the subject of land, the easy acquisition of which is one of the main inducements to emigration.

In selecting land for agricultural purposes, it will be cheaper in the end to give a comparatively high price for land of good quality, convenient to towns, and where water carriage is available, than a low price for land of equal quality badly situated.

Land in New Zealand, in its wild state, is usually classed under the following heads: viz. Forest, Fern, Flax, Tea-tree, Grass-land, and land bearing the shrub known as the Tupaki or Tout. Bush land is usually good in quality, but difficult and expensive to clear. The kauri-pines denote land of a poor quality: fern-land is easy to clear, but requires a fallow before it is used, and much heavy harrowing to clear it of roots: flax, grass, and tupaki generally denote a good soil, and where these grow in luxuriance, an excellent soil: the tea-tree, where it grows thick and high, also be-

speaks a tolerably good soil: where the fern and tea-tree grow in a thin and straggling manner, the land had better be let alone.

On occupying new land, settlers will do well first to clear and break up as much land as they intend to use the first year; after breaking it up let them fence it in; by this plan the land becomes sweetened before being sown. Summer fallows are best in New Zealand, and autumn is the best planting season. Ploughs without wheels are generally preferred for new lands, and bullocks are of more use and less trouble to keep than horses. Strong short ploughs will break up fern, flax, and tupaki land; for commencement of a new farm, any distance from towns and blacksmiths, the short wooden-handled ploughs are perhaps altogether best. Newly broken land when in crop, is subject to visits from caterpillars; wheat, oats, barley and grass, are often checked in growth, and even destroyed by these pestilent visitors, it is therefore injudicious for men of small means to risk their all on a first crop.

Emigrants unskilled in agriculture should gain agricultural experience at the expense of others: it would be better for such people to work for one year without remuneration, rather than risk their capital in approaching that which is more dangerous than the racecourse, and to a novice even less uncertain in its results than rouge-et-noir or roulette. There is no short cut, no royal road, by which a knowledge of farming may be arrived at. "Why do you think – why does everybody

think that he can farm without having learned how; that agriculture is an exception to every other human labour or pursuit, a contradiction to all natural law, and will bring livelihood without study, cost, or apprenticeship," are words written by one who had well studied his subject theoretically and practically. Well would it be, if emigrants to new lands did, on their voyage out, amuse themselves with "Talpa, or the Chronicles of a Clay Farm," the work from which I have just quoted. "Talpa" speaks more truth in a laughing pleasant way than any work of its length I have met with. "Talpa," "Stephen's Book of the Farm," and works on cattle and sheep, should be purchased by all emigrants who can afford to buy them, previous to leaving home.

"Talpa" points out many errors to be avoided in farming; we are reminded not to grow thick hedgerows, to avoid unnecessary enclosures; twenty acres is small enough for one field; we are told not to crop land, before by fallowing and draining, the land is fit for cropping; and lastly, "Talpa" seeks to bring before us, how necessary it is to introduce steam to agriculture, and with steam, implements adapted to steam power. "The spade is suited to human power, the plough to horse power, neither the one nor the other to steam power." "Spade work is perpendicular, horse work is horizontal, machine work circular."

New Zealand, with its large breadth of land, untrammelled by fences and free from forest, offers a fine

opening for the more effectual introduction to agriculture of the right power for the present age; and with such markets as are offered by Australia, those who have capital need not hesitate to employ it in New Zealand, where land of the richest description may be had at a nominal price, and where the produce of the land realises far higher prices than in the old country.

In England, frost and snow often put a stop to agricultural pursuits; America in this also resembles England, and adds further impediments by its ague fever to those engaged in active pursuits; in Australia, the dreaded drought not unfrequently burns up the crops, after money and labour have been expended in their production; but in New Zealand, through a large average of years, the seasons are favourable at seed-time and harvest-time, and the climate promotes health and vigour to those who earn their bread by the sweat of their brow. In England men toil early and late for a small remuneration, their children half starved when young, too often are driven to crime by want; competition is carried to that extent that capital often has to be employed at a loss, and labour can claim little but its duties. The rich man frequently becomes poor, the poor man has in his old age only the workhouse to look forward to, while those who by business have gained a small capital, find it difficult to make a secure investment of their money – their hard-earned savings being too often swallowed up in bubble companies, or by dishonest bankers.

In Canada, Australia, and New Zealand, no workhouse need be feared; the artisan and labourer can easily save money from their wages, and the money saved can readily be invested in land, the only safe investment to be found for capital; at all events, as Mr. Hoskyns says in his Talpa, "The soil is the primest, eldest investment of our capital; to risk our earnings and accumulations in any other channel till this field is first exhausted, is a course that men may indeed be driven to by the operation of foolish laws or customs, but which few, from either will or circumstance, would voluntarily choose." In New Zealand much of the land is of good quality, plentiful, cheap, and unshackled by "the pestilent tyranny of parchment, and obsolete forms, which, added to its high price, renders it almost locked up to the man of small means at home."

Therefore, I would urge on those who have energy, and are dissatisfied with their lot in the old country, to emigrate; and whether they may select the Canadas, Australia, or New Zealand for their future home, all who enjoy health, and are able and willing to use the "strong right arm," in either colony, will find their time more profitably employed than in listening to mob-orators in Smithfield, in joining unions, or in tramping through a country in search of labour where the labour-market is over supplied. To whatever colony the emigrant may go, he will find a ready investment for capital, and labour a capital in itself, by means of

which he may soon become an independent man, a landowner, and the possessor of a political existence.

As I firmly believe that New Zealand is more calculated to make a happy home for Englishmen than any other colony, I shall be more than repaid for the trouble this pamphlet has given me, if, by its perusal, a portion of those who are undecided as to what colony they shall emigrate to, are persuaded that the "Star of Empire" does not merely "glitter in the West," but that another "Sea-girt Isle" is ready to receive them, which promises some day to become a second England – "a British Empire" of the Southern Seas.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

The Australian and New Zealand Gazette, published at 11, Clement's Lane, London, contains the most recent news from the various provinces of New Zealand, the editors of which, Messrs. Algar and Street, have regular correspondents in New Zealand.

Emigrants to New Zealand can obtain information about passages at the offices of Messrs. Young, 61 , Cornhill, and at Messrs. Willis, No. 3, Crosbie Square. 17 The rates vary from time to time, but are on an average from £45 to £60 for first-class, £30 for second-class, and £22 for third-class passengers; arrangements can be made either with Messrs. Young or Willis for tonnage to any of the provinces.

They also give orders for money to be paid in any of the provinces on the payment of money to them here in London by the intending emigrant. This saves the risk of carrying the money over the sea.

The Union Bank of Australia grants bills for monies on Auckland, "Wellington, Nelson, and Canterbury, without charging any per centage. This Bank is so highly considered, that although Government Banks are established in New Zealand, hardly an instance of an old settler leaving the Union Bank is to be met with.

Emigrants should take to New Zealand the same sort of winter and summer clothes they wear at home, with a rather larger supply of strong, stout boots, socks, and shirts.

Intending emigrants will find works published on most of the colonies at Mr. Stanford's, No. 6, Charing Cross. The best of these works, on New Zealand, I consider to be the one written by Mr. Fitton. From a letter in this book, emigrants will see what advantages New Zealand has over Canada in climate, available land, and high markets – they will also perceive in this letter, which is written by a person who has resided in both colonies, how much more likely the New Zealand colonist is to enjoy health, and how few difficulties he will, comparatively speaking, have to contend with. A reference to Mr. Swainson's book will make known the favourable manner in which the climate of New Zealand acts upon man's health, and how to those who seek, in colonization, a happy home, New Zealand offers more to be desired than any other colony, or indeed any other country, can offer.

The overland route from Southampton, on the 12th of each month, via Marseilles, Malta, the Isthmus of Suez, and Ceylon, to Melbourne, commenced on the 24th February, 1857. A steamer runs once a month from Sydney to Auckland, the charge of which for first-class passengers is £15, for second-class £8, or £10. Information about this route is to be obtained at 12, St. Helen's Place, London, and 33, Renfield Street, Glasgow.

From Auckland, people can obtain passages once a month in the steamer Zingari to New Plymouth, Nelson, Wellington and Canterbury. The prices are as follows, viz.: –

£. s. d.

Between Auckland and New Plymouth 5 0 0

" " Nelson. . . 7 10 0

" " Wellington. 10 0 0

" " Canterbury. 12 10 0

Food is included in the charges mentioned, and everything but liquor, for which separate charges are made. Objections may probably be urged against

New Zealand on account of earthquakes and the native population. In answer to these objections I would remark that excepting in the province of Wellington, earthquakes are of no account, and in the province of Auckland they are unknown. With regard to the natives, I consider that they are a cause of wealth and prosperity to the colonists, and might be made of great use even to the Home Government. It is needless to say incase of war we won't make the Maories soldiers, lest after we have trained them they should turn against us; they are already trained, and well trained, and in many respects are, as Sir George Grey says, quite able to contend with us.

Auckland possesses barrack accommodation for about 550 troops, a Brigade-office, Commissariat-office, powder magazine, and military hospital, all built of stone; a stone wall encloses the buildings, and with them a space of grass ground sufficient for the field-movements of a regiment; within this wall a cricket-ground has been laid down, a well-drained gravelled parade-ground has been formed in front of the barracks, and gravelled walks made by the sentry boxes; so that by these means the health and comfort of the troops has been provided for. At the Bay of Islands, wooden buildings have been hired at the Wahapu, where 150 men are usually located, the situation of the Wahapu being commanded by hills at its rear. From this station troops could offer no timely assistance to Kororarika, the only township in the neighbourhood. New Plymouth has a large iron barrack, which furnishes accommodation for 250 soldiers, the barrack is on Marsden Hill, a strong position, stockaded and commanding the town. Wanganui is protected by a force of 200 men, located in two stockades, which command the rear of the town. The remainder of the troops are quartered at Wellington.

To those who are about to join a country where grasses are cultivated with much advantage, as most grasses used in England are grown in New Zealand, a few words on the subject may be of use.

Curtis, who wrote on grasses about the beginning of the present century, asserts, that sweet-scented vernal, meadow foxtail, smooth stalked meadow grass, rough stalked meadow grass, meadow fescue, and crested dog's tail, are the six grasses which constitute the bulk of our best pastures, most of which are early, all of them productive, and adapted to such soils and situations as are proper for meadows and pastures; of these six, Curtis seems to give the preference generally to foxtail and rough stalked meadow grass. For land moderately dry, meadow fescue and sweet-scented vernal. For dry pasture, smooth stalked meadow grass and crested dog's tail.

Cocksfoot, rye grass, and white clover, much used in New Zealand, have been cultivated with considerable success, particularly in Auckland and New Plymouth.

The following scale of mixtures of grasses for an acre of land, quoted from a work published by Peter Lawson, of Edinburgh, the well-known Seedsman to the Highland Society, may serve as a general guide to emigrants about to engage in laying down permanent pasture.

Light Soils.

Medium Soils.

Heavy Soils.

With a crop.

Without a crop.

With a crop.

Without a crop.

With a crop.

Without a crop.

lb.

lb

lb.

lb.

lb.

Meadow Foxtail

1 1/2

2

1 1/2

2

2

2 1/2

Cocksfoot

4

5

5

6

6

7

Hard Fescue

2

2

2

2

2 1/2

3

Tall Fescue

–

–

2

2

2 1/2

3

Meadow Fescue

2

3

2 1/2

3 1/2

2 1/2

3 1/2

Red Fescue

1

1 1/2

–

–

–

–

Italian Rye

6

7

6

7

7

8

Perennial Rye

8

10

9

11

10

12

Meadow Catstail

1

1

2

3

2 1/2

3

Wood Meadow Grass

1 1/2

1 1/2

1 1/2

1 1/2

1 1/2

1 1/2

Smooth stalked Meadow

1

1 1/2

1

1

–

–

Yellow Trefoil

1

1

1

1

1

1

Rough stalked Meadow

–

–

2

3

3

4

Red Clover

1

1

1

1

1

1

Perennial Clover

2 1/2

2 1/2

2 1/2

2 1/2

2 1/2

2 1/2

White Clover

5

6

5

6

6

7

37 1/2

45

44

52 1/2

50

59

Much valuable information on grasses may be obtained from Mr. Clarke, of 25, Bishopsgate Street Within, Messrs. Gibbs, of Half Moon Street, corner of Piccadilly, and from Mr. Lawson, of Edinburgh; from either of whom grass and garden seed of the best quality can be procured, or arrangements made for obtaining a supply of seeds in the colony. All seed for exportation should be secured in air-tight tin cases, enclosed in wood. Rye grass, clovers, and fescue grasses may generally be purchased in the colony, but other sorts of grass seeds are often scarce, costly, and mixed.

Gentlemen who desire to obtain early information of what is going on at home, will do well to subscribe

to "The Home News," published at Grindlay and Co.'s, 124, Bishopsgate Street. This paper comes out once a month at a cost of only 12 shillings a year; it contains a digest of the news of the month, is admirably adapted for the colonies, and is always transmitted with the greatest regularity.

THE END.

[Page 160 is blank.]

[Inserted map]

A MAP OF THE WORLD,
DISTINGUISHING THE BRITISH ISLES, THEIR COLONIES, AND POSSESSIONS.

17 Morrison, 138, Leadenhall Street, and Banes of Liverpool, are also shippers to New Zealand.

[Advertisements for Books and Maps]

A SELECTION OF BOOKS AND MAPS ON

NEW ZEALAND,

PUBLISHED OR SOLD BY

EDWARD STANFORD,

6, CHARING CROSS, LONDON. (S. W.)

BOOKS.

HURSTHOUSE. – NEW ZEALAND, "the Britain of the South," by Charles Hursthouse, with two Maps and seven Views, printed in colours.

FITTON. – NEW ZEALAND, its present condition, prospects and resources; being a description of the Country and general mode of life among New Zealand Colonists, for the information of intending Emigrants, by Edw. Brown Fitton, late Resident in the Colony, with Map. Price 4s; free by post, 4s 4d.

ADMIRALTY. – The New Zealand Pilot, from Surveys made in H.M. Ships Acheron and Pandora, by Captain J. Lort Stokes and Commander Byron Drury. Published by order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. Price 3s 6d; free by post, 4s.

FOX. – The Six Colonies of New Zealand, by William Fox, with Map. Price 4s 6d; free by post, 4s 10d.

SWAINSON. – NEW ZEALAND. The Substance of Lectures on the Colonization of New Zealand, by William Swainson. Price 2s 6d; free by post, 2s 8d.

AUCKLAND. – A Description of Auckland and its NEIGHBOURHOOD, also Information for Intending Emigrants, Labour Market, Land, Pasture Licences, Timber Licences, Provisions, Customs' Duties, Outfits, &c. with a Map. Price 3d; per post, 4d.

TARANAKI – Taranaki, or New Plymouth, the Garden of New Zealand, tested by its Religious, Social, and Natural Advantages. Price 3d; per post, id. KNOWLES. – The Canterbury Settlement, New Zealand. A Field for Emigration, by John Knowles. Price 2d; per post, 3d.

EMIGRATION CIRCULAR FOR NEW ZEALAND, with 2 Maps, 1853. Price 2d each; per post, 3d; or 50 copies for 6s.

WELD. – Hints to Intending Sheep Farmers in New Zealand, by Frederick A. Weld, Esq., second edition. Price 4d; per post, 5d.

Published by Edward Stanford, 6, Charing Cross.

MAPS AND PLANS.

NEW ZEALAND, Published by the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge, thoroughly revised from the Admiralty Surveys, with additions in the interior, by Walter Mantell, Esq. folded. Price 1s; mounted in case, 2s

CANTERBURY. – Map of the Province of Canterbury, New Zealand, shewing- the Freehold Sections and Pas-torage Runs. The Map is based upon the recent Maritime Surveys by the Admiralty in New Zealand, the Trigonometrical Survey made by order of the Provincial Government, and the Communications of Colonists to the Land Office. The Map has corrections furnished by Walter Mantell, Esq. and R. J. S. Harman, Esq. Price, sheet, 7s 6d; case, 10s; on canvas, rollers, and varnished, 15s.

NEW PLYMOUTH. Plan of the Town and Part of the Settlement of New Plymouth, by Carrington, late Chief Surveyor. Price 5s; case, 7s 6d.

ADMIRALTY CHART of New Zealand, and Principal Harbours. Mounted in case, price, 8s; sheets, cold. 5s 6d.

VIEWS.

AUCKLAND in 4 Views. Price 7s 6d the set.

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF PORT NICHOLSON, in New Zealand, shewing the Site of the Town of Wellington, the River and Valley of the Hutt, and adjacent country. In one sheet, 34 in. by 24. Price 2s 6d.

VIEW OF A PART OF THE TOWN OF WELLINGTON, New Zealand. Price 2s 6d.

VIEW OF NELSON HAVEN, NEW ZEALAND, including a part of the Site of the Town of Nelson, in one sheet, 34 in. by 24. Price 2s 6d.

VIEW OF THE LOWER HARBOUR OF OTAGO, from Port Chalmers, in one sheet, 34 in. by 24. Price 2s 6d.

VIEW OF PART OF DUNEDIN AND UPPER HARBOUR, from Stafford Street. Price 1s 6d.

STANFORD'S CATALOGUE OF RECENT WORKS on EMIGRATION and COLONIZATION: containing Accounts of the Colonies, Guides for Emigrants, Handbooks to California, Treatises on Colonization, Parliamentary Documents, Colonial Maps, &c. Sent free by post for 1 Stamp.

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