1874 - Carleton, H. The Life of Henry Williams, [Vol. I. ] - [Pages 201-245]

on both sides without effect. Two war canoes met, and engaged, when three men belonging to Titore were killed; two of them were brothers, and men of high rank.

Henry Williams to the Rev. E. G. Marsh.
April 12, 1837.

I have returned from Kaitaia since Saturday last, and we found the natives here in great confusion, and know not what to say to them. However, on Saturday morning the parties met, and after firing at each other for about three hours, the list of sufferers were one Englishman wounded in the foot, and one pig in the shoulder. Things look black around, but we shall be better able to judge in a few days. Mr. Marsden seems very much recovered since his landing; he is so very infirm that he is obliged frequently to rest when out for a walk, and requires much nursing and care. He has been very much delighted with all he has seen since his arrival; he says, nothing which we could have written could have conveyed to him the true state of the Mission.

April 3, 1837. A fight at the pa [Otuihu, Pomare's place], or rather a squabble, which we fear will bring on trouble. A woman shot.

April 5. Mr. Brown has written to Henry, urging his return, on account of the disturbed state of the natives.

April 8. Henry, Mr. and Miss Marsden surprised us. The "Columbine," when in sight, had been mistaken for the "Jessie." A happy return. The dear old gentleman was delighted with his visit to Kaitaia.

April 9. Henry went up through Kawakawa. He heard of the fight, and saw the canoes. No settlers at church. Heard of Mr. Greenway's alarm, from the war party. Henry had called on Captain Clendon, and brought a box from them to be in a place of safety.

April 10. Henry went to Kororareka, to see the army, and talk with the leaders, to sound their dispositions towards peace.

April 11. Mr. Marsden went with Henry and Mr. Brown to the pa.

April 14. Mr. Marsden and Henry went to Kororareka.

April 15. A fearful day of excitement. Just as I went to the infant school, with Mr. and Miss Marsden, Henry saw a movement among the canoes; was off, and up the river in his dressing-gown before we knew he was gone. Mrs. Clendon and her children were brought over for refuge. She came weeping, and made me shudder with the account she gave of their skirmishing and fighting, and

dropping down as fast, and my dear husband among them in the very thick of it. My husband returned safe. The poor natives had made a sad affair of it.

April 20. Henry, Mr. Brown, and Mr. Baker went to Kororareka, to see the captains of the vessels, who had a meeting on the occasion of the fight. Mr. Busby went also. Mr. Marsden went to see Captain Dillon, of the "Jessie." Rongo came, and her husband, John Heke. Rewharewha at Waimate. Our men at the farm, Matiu and Puriri, in great fear. The storm of war seems gathering, and fears increasing. But the Lord reigneth: we need not be dismayed.

April 22. A volley of musketry at daylight. Papahia arrived at Waimate.

April 23. Henry went up the Kawakawa.

April 24. Henry went to see Papahia, at the camp at Waimate.

April 26. Henry went inland.

April 27. Mr. Kemp breakfasted with us. The canoes were passing and firing; many sights and sounds of war.

April 29. All was commotion. The fleet of canoes moved up the river, from Kororareka and Waitangi, to the attack of the pa. Henry was off before the breakfast bell rang: I had terror and anxiety to endure again.

May 2. The natives firing and fighting behind the hills, near the Haumi. All the natives in the settlement up the hill, to see one man wounded.

May 3. Henry went to Kororareka; thence to Whauwhauroa to meet Mr. Davis.

May 4. Mr. Davis and Henry went up the river, and returned in good time.

May 5. .Henry and Mr. Davis went over to Kororareka.

May 7. Mr. Davis and Henry went to Kawakawa. It seemed now to be established that the Europeans should be unmolested.

May 9. Henry set off directly after breakfast, to go and visit the Kawakawa; but the canoes passed from Waitangi before he started, and the firing soon began, and continued till three o'clock. The canoes were seen going from Kororareka. The firing had been heard at Waimate.

May 10. Mr. Marsden, Henry, and Mr. Clarke went to Kororareka, after there had been much firing, and playing, like children, at bo-peep. The canoes from the pa, and those from Waitangi, coming out in a body, and daring each other to follow.

May 11. Mr. Marsden and Mr. Clarke went to Kerikeri.

May 12. Henry did not return from Kororareka, where he had been toiling among the natives, till four o'clock.

May 16. We heard of John Heke's near escape, being chased in a canoe from Wahapu. How sad that this Christian native should in any way mix in these civil wars.

May 22. The canoes fired all day. Reports of killed and wounded.

May 23. Henry and Mr. Brown went up the river, and to Kororareka. Mr. Marsden went with Mr. Baker.

May 26. Two vessels coming in; one expected to be the "Buffalo," or "Rattlesnake."

May 27. Mr. Mair came with the letters just as we were dropping off to sleep. It was H.M.S. "Rattlesnake."

May 27. Mr. Marsden and Henry went on board the "Rattlesnake," and returned; the former in high spirits at having secured his passage to Sydney.

May 29. Captain Hobson and the first lieutenant called, with Mr. Busby. The captain is a thin, pleasing man, said to be the original of "Tom Cringle," of "The Log."

June 4. Henry off at day-dawn to the Kawakawa. Heard news of peace at the southward.

June 6. Mrs. Clendon and children to dine, and spend the day. Captain Clendon, after landing Mrs. Clendon, picked up two captains, and saved their lives, from a boat upset, round which they were struggling; but he was near endangering the lives of his boat's crew, from the Waitangi mob, who ran along the beach to fire at the boat, the natives being of the opposite party.

June 14. The canoes went up, a formidable shew. News arrived of the slaughter of Pi; a chief of Hokianga killed. This mischief was done when we least expected.

June 17. Henry returned unsuccessful from his attempt among the natives to procure peace.

June 18. Henry went up before it was well light to the Kawakawa.

June 19. To our surprise, heard that Captain Wright's place had been stripped, and their inmates half murdered by three Europeans.

June 28. Henry informed us the Committee would be here next week, on account of the natives assembling, and the prospect of making peace.

July 4. Mr. and Miss Marsden embarked on board the "Alligator," for Sydney, taking with them our eldest daughter, Marianne.

July 8. Henry up the river, peace-making.

July 11. Pi's son [Adam Clarke] arrived from Waimate. A grand haka of natives on the beach.

July 12. Henry went up with natives, and had a fatiguing day; Wharerahi and Tamati Waka called. Noise of guns, and natives dancing on the beach.

July 14. Henry returned with news of peace having been made; he had taken four individuals up to the pa. Rewa and Wharerahi came over in the evening to say that Kororareka were angry with the arrangements for peace.

July 15. Rewa's great gun went off at Kororareka, as a sign they were angry. Henry had ordered "Maroro" [" Flying Fish"-- the large boat], then ordered the little boat; and Wharerahi seemed inclined to give up all hope. All seemed gloomy again. However, Wharerahi came to beg the great boat might go, and he and Henry went to the pa, taking a red flag and a white one, for peace or war. We had the happiness of seeing Henry's boat return with his white flag flying to Kororareka, two canoes with him. A white flag was hoisted on shore. We knew that Henry had brought the Kororareka people back from the pa with a chief of the pa.

June 4. Canoes at Waitangi moving up the river. Went up the Kawakawa to give notice of the Hikutu being out; much concern expressed. Return to Otuihu: Ngapuhi returning; much firing. One shot from the great gun fell close.

May 10, 1838. Kawiti sent to Tareha to whakatika [make straight] his pukapuka; but no notice appears to have been taken.

Mr. Baker and I went over to Kororareka to take Kawiti's patu; the Kororareka people not inclined to receive it.

Toward the end of October [1838], I sailed with a party of natives, to establish them as teachers at the East Cape and Turanga, among those distant tribes. I found the natives very numerous, when compared with those of this part of the island; and at all the pas, both at the East Cape and Turanga, all seemed perfectly prepared to receive Christian instruction. Their repeated and strong solicitations for teachers are a loud and imperative call that the field should no longer be neglected. The visit paid to these places a twelvemonth since has had a very salutary effect. The demand for books was great and general; and it was truly distressing to be obliged to turn away without the means of giving relief. I distributed, in the course of my journey, five hundred slates, and a few early lessons and catechisms. Books I had none. Three of our married teachers were placed at the Cape, and three at Turanga. We were enabled to make a commencement with schools, and there is little doubt that they will be continued, unless suffered to languish and die from the want of Missionary support.

Sydney, New South Wales,
March 28, 1839.

Having rendered this short account of the principal incidents during my residence in New Zealand, I shall now offer to the notice of the Society those conclusions with regard to the present state and future prospects of their Mission which I was enabled to form, through the exercise of my judgment upon all which presented itself to my observation. In thus proceeding, I shall use great plainness of speech. It is in my power, I think, effectually to contradict the assertions of the adversary and the scoffer, who have some times gone the length of affirming that the attempt to Christianise the people of this nation has been a failure,--that nothing has been done. On the other hand, I shall not suffer my admiration of that which has really been effected, to hurry me into an unqualified approval of everything connected with the establishment of theMission, or the operations of the Missionaries; nor to deter me from pointing out any particulars in which I think there is room for improvement.

First, with regard to the Missionaries of the Society, I must offer a very sincere and willing testimony of their maintaining a conversation such as becomes the Gospel of Christ, and the relation in which they stand to it, as the professed guides and instructors of

those who are, by their agency, to be retrieved from the service of sin. Their habits of life are devotional, they are not puffed up with self-estimation, but appeared to me willing to learn, as well as apt to teach, and among themselves they appear to be drawn together by a spirit of harmony, which is, I hope, the sincere effusion of their hearts, prompted by that spirit, of which love, gentleness, and goodness are among the most delightful fruits. It is upon the continuance of this spirit among themselves that I raise my principal expectations of their continued success among the natives. Without unanimity, there can be no successful combination of their exertions, nor is any blessing upon them to be hoped for, such as has hitherto visibly attended them, and in a very ample measure.

At every station which I personally visited, the converts were so numerous as to bear a very visible and considerable proportion to the entire population, and I had sufficient testimony to convince me that the same state of things prevailed at other places, which it was in my power to reach. As the result of my inspection, I should state, that in most of the native villages, called pas, in which the Missionaries have a footing, there is a building, containing one room, superior in fabric and dimensions to the native residences, which appears to be set apart as their place for assembling for religious worship, or to read the Scriptures, or to receive the exhortations of the Missionaries. In these buildings generally, and sometimes in the open air, the Christian classes were assembled before one. The grey-haired man and the aged woman took their places, to read and to undergo examination among their descendants of the second and third generations. The chief and the slave stood side by side, with the same Holy Volume in their hands; and exerted their endeavours each to surpass the other, in returning proper answers to the questions put to them concerning what they had been reading. These assemblages I encouraged on all occasions, not only from the pleasure which the exhibition itself afforded, but because I was thus enabled, in the most certain and satisfactory way, to probe the extent of their attainments and improvements. The experience thus acquired has induced me to adopt the habit of applying the term "converts" to those alone, for many such there were, who, in the apparent sincerity of their convictions, and in the sufficiency of their information, compared with their opportunities of acquiring it, may be considered Christians indeed. They have, as the Society is probably informed, the whole, I believe, of the Liturgy in their own language, accompanied, for several years past, with portions of the New Testament.

But a very great work has been accomplished in now providing them with a translation of the whole volume, copies of which are distributed to such as are likely to employ them well, as rapidly as, with the limited means in their possession, the Missionaries are able to have them bound. This translation will ever remain a

monument of laborious and well-directed piety. My acquaintance with the language was not sufficient to enable me critically to judge of its fidelity to the original; but in my conversation with the Rev. W. Williams, the principal agent in this great work, I availed myself of every opportunity to ascertain the exact literal rendering of any passages which chanced to be the subjects of our immediate attention; and, upon inquiring--which I did very closely,--into his reasons for adopting particular words or phrases, to express the sense of the original, I was gratified to find that he was invariably prepared with a reason; and my impression is, that where there were conflicting reasons, each carrying weight, he had generally given the preference to that which deserved it. In speaking of the character of the converted natives, I express most unequivocally my persuasion that it has been improved, in comparison with the original disposition, by their acquaintance with the truths of the Gospel. Their haughty self-will, their rapacity, furiousness and sanguinary inclination, have been softened--I may even say, eradicated; and their superstitious opinions have given place, in many instances, to a correct apprehension of the spiritual tendencies of the Gospel. Their chief remaining vices appeared to me to be indolence, duplicity, and covetousness.

From Mr. Williams' journal. 7

October 21, 1839. Wind fair. Sunset, embarked and got under weigh; Mr. Clarke, Mr. Hadfield, Mr. Wilson and his children, Mr. Stack, passengers.

October 23. Wind increased to a gale. Stood into Tauranga.

October 24. Strong wind. Thought of going overland to Kapiti. Boys opposed to it. Concluded to visit Maketu and contending parties.

October 26. Mr. Brown, Mr. Clarke, and myself left for Maketu.

October 27. Maketu; met in friendly consideration. Passed on to the Waikato tribes; after much opposition, they proposed to retire in the morning. Went over with the news to Maketu. Insolent language, in consequence of which Waikato determined to remain.

October 30. Saw Waikato again; no disposition to move, owing to the insolence of last evening. Returned to Tauranga.

October 31. Set sail.

November 1. Stood close for land. Landed Hamuera and his party,--native teachers.

November 2. Tumbling night. Landed Mr. Clarke, Mr. Stack, and some natives.

November 7. Saw Cape Palliser (Kawakawa). Bore up before the wind, and were soon in smooth water. We drew in more to the land to get a better observation, and found an opening. We were soon in a most splendid harbour, Port Nicholson, called by the natives Poneke; quite a different place to what is laid down by Cook. We came to anchor in a perfectly sheltered place, with sufficient room for all the fleets of England. Some canoes came off, and informed us that the " Tory" 8 [ship] had been here and purchased the whole place. That they had desired to reserve a portion of the land for themselves, but the European would have the whole. A fortnight since, a dispute arose among some of the natives respecting land. Not being able to come to any satisfactory arrangement, they took their guns. Of the aggressors seventy fell; of their opponents twenty. The parties are now in open arms, though closely related and sitting together. The land in question was intended for Europeans, and would probably be sold for a few blankets. The "Tory," I learnt, was in Queen Charlotte's Sound, purchasing land; and they were endeavouring to obtain Taranaki (Mount Egmont). We were told that the natives were to have reserved for them one thousand acres for every million sold to the association. Riki (Dick) came on board and gave pleasing information of the progress of the Mission in Port Nicholson (Poneke), and on the coast to the North. Went on shore, and had long conversation with the natives. Numerous applications for books. Gave two Testaments and some prayer books. Reihana (Richard) with his wife and family appear to be established here, and to take a lead among their people. He had opposed the proceedings of the chiefs with the "Tory," but to no purpose. He reserved his own portion of ground to himself. This young man will, I hope, be found very useful here. He appears steady in all his transactions. For several years he lived at Paihia, and on the removal of Mr. Davies to Waimate, he accompanied him thither. He came here about three months since, and takes the lead in the service amongst the natives.

November 8. Got under weigh; wind came on strong; could do nothing in working up to Kapiti; stood over to Cloudy Bay.

November 10. Went on shore; met the natives at service. Saw the Europeans, and held service. Much pleased with them. Heard that the "Tory" had been to Kapiti, buying all right and title to the land for a considerable extent.

November 11. Met Mr. Guard and Mr. Wing, with whom we had much conversation as to the state of the natives in this part of the island, and their desire for instruction. Mr. Wing expressed his desire to assist in distributing books, if sent to him. The schooner "Hokianga" arrived from Taranaki. Mr. M------ came on board, and reported their landing at Taranaki; that at first they were apprehensive of the natives, who presented themselves with their muskets; but upon their calling out that they were Missionaries, all ran towards them and gave them a hearty welcome. Mr. M------is an infidel, and his companion a Jew. Enemies to our cause; but in this instance it was convenient for them to hail for Missionaries.

November 12. Wind against us; stood across the Straits, and determined to land at Port Nicholson and walk overland. In the afternoon anchored in the harbour. Several natives came on board, with whom I made arrangement to accompany us on the morrow. My companion, Mr. Hadfield, very unwell; much distressed to observe his weakness, fearing that he will not be able to undertake the journey.

November 13. In full preparation for our departure to Kapiti, where I hoped to meet the "Columbine." Landed at Ngauranga. In the afternoon, proceeded up the harbour in a canoe to Petoni. We brought with us one hundred prayer books, fifteen Testaments, and six catechisms.

November 14. Found my companion, Mr. Hadfield, very unwell this morning. Doubtful of his proceeding; he however determined to make a beginning. Took a good breakfast as a preparation for my journey; my companion a draught of cold water and a crust of bread, a sorry commencement. Mounted the height on our way to Kapiti; joined in the evening by Reihana.

November 15. Received an express to go to Manga, a pa of Te Rangitakaroro. Arrived at noon, amidst heavy rain, and were happy to find ourselves opposite to the island of Mana. Passed close to Te Koriwa, a place where are several Europeans whaling. Saw Neti, the native who came out in the "Tory," who gave us an account of the proceedings of the Agent of the New Zealand Land Company.

November 16. Prepared to cross over to Mana, which occupied some time, owing to the numbers who wished to accompany us. We were nearly one hundred in the canoe, and I was somewhat fearful of consequences. It was about two miles across. We landed at the

pa of Rangihaeata, 9 who received us with all due honours. Several Europeans were here, who were civil, one in particular, who was very solicitous that we should take some rum, which gave me an opportunity to speak on the evil of the practice. While here, heard the account of the dreadful deed committed by Stewart at Bank's Peninsula; 10 the prisoners were brought to this place and killed with savage brutality. Passed to Oeka, where we found two Europeans.

November 17. Held conversation with Moturoa and some others, who appeared in a pleasing state. After breakfast, went to Porirua. Held service with natives; about ten Europeans present.

November 18. Moved off at daylight; a large company. Travelling rough and heavy, over deep sand, sharp rocks, and large stones. Detained at four or five places along the road where the people came out to welcome us and invite us to remain and eat. They would not, however, allow us to pass without giving them a few words, as they were believers in Jesus Christ. I did so, and was much surprised and delighted at so unexpected a change. As we drew near Waikanae, numbers joined our party. A most gracious reception at the pa. In the evening, some of the chiefs came to the tent, and kept me in conversation till I could talk no more.

November 19. The boat arrived from Kapiti, to convey me over to Rauparaha, whom we found to be more agreeable than I had anticipated. He received us graciously, and entered fully into conversation upon politics, and the necessity of laying aside his evil ways. He said he had sent two letters to me, at different times, requesting me to come down to him; and, lastly, he had sent his two sons to fetch me, and I had done well to come to him. I was much pleased with the apparent interest shown by the old man. We had service at his place, and took up our abode upon the "Atlas." The old man presented me with a splendid pig.

November 20. Rauparaha came off at daylight, and we had much conversation with him. He was much pleased that Mr. Hadfield had come to reside among them. He was interested with all his son had to tell him of all he had seen in the Bay of Islands

and among the Missionaries. The old man told me that now he had seen my eyes, and heard my words, he would lay aside his evil ways, and turn to the Book; and on the morrow, he would proceed to his people, who live about sixteen miles to the northward, and "tread down the anger," that there might be no more fighting. It was then proposed that we should proceed to Otaki, on the Southern Island, near Bank's Peninsula, to make peace with his enemy, Tairoa, that he might plant and eat his potatoes, and catch his fish, and believe on Jesus Christ. In the afternoon, we went on shore, and the old chief urged our conversation on the subject of religion. He was much interested with the doctrine of the Resurrection. We held service at his place, and were heard with great attention.

November 22. Embarked Mr. Hadfield's horses in a large canoe, and passed them over to Waikanae. We went over the ground on which the late battle was fought, owing to the payment for Port Nicholson not being generally distributed. For a native affair, it must have been very desperate, the unevenness of the ground bringing the parties into close combat. Rauparaha's people led the attack, and were defeated by the people of Waikanae. The old chief himself was not present. I was shewn the sepulchre of their enemies, whom they buried with military honours, with their garments, muskets, ammunition, &c, not reserving to themselves anything which had belonged to them. This is a new feeling, arisen from the great change which the introduction of the Gospel has effected among them. We saw their late chapel, a very large one, which they were obliged to leave, owing to the war; they have now a new one, in the pa. These chapels, and many others around, were built through the influence of a young man instructed in the Paihia school, named Matahau. He lived many years with my brother, and afterwards with me, and returned, many years ago, to his relations at this place, among whom he has laboured with astonishing zeal and perseverance. He has taught many to read, and has instructed numbers, as far as he is able, in the truths of the Gospel, so that many tribes, for some distance round, call themselves Believers, keep the Lord's Day, assemble for Worship, and use the Liturgy of the Church of England. The schools, also, are numerous. I felt that our boy, Matahau, had set an example which ought to rouse the Missionaries to every exertion, and act as a powerful appeal to the friends of the Society at home.

We took leave of Rauparaha. I determined to proceed overland to Tauranga, reluctantly giving up going to Bank's Peninsula, a field I had long desired to visit, and for which I had now an excellent opening. But I felt it needful to turn my course northward, from the disturbed state, in consequence of the new war; that I might do what I could to effect a peace, and visit the natives of Whanganui, who had sent many pressing invitations. We had much conversation

with the chiefs previous to our departure to their enemies of the other tribes, for the purpose of endeavouring to make a peace. Towards sunset, we had a large assembly for service, and in the evening were much gratified by examining about twenty candidates for baptism.

November 23. We proceeded on our march for Otaki, with a long train of followers, who intended to accompany us half way. About four o'clock, we arrived at Pakakutu, the pa belonging to Kuru. It is a small one; but Kuru had separated from the main body, that he, with his people, might have service without fear of interruption. We had service with the people of the pa, the first time that any Europeans had declared to them the truths of the Gospel. Kuru and others afterwards came to the tent door, and I had much conversation with them. The chief observed that he knew several hymns, but could not catch the tunes, and had therefore composed some of his own, of which he gave a specimen. He afterwards commenced repeating the morning service, and I believe would have continued to the end had he not been interrupted. I was much delighted with him, and gave him a primer and two prayer books.

November 24. Te Kuru and his people accompanied us to the great pa. Watanui, the chief gave us a gracious welcome, but, as it was the Lord's Day, they abstained from their usual practice of calling out on our approach. We proceeded to the chapel, a very good building, about fifty feet by thirty; several hundreds were present, though I understand that comparatively few attend to instruction. We afterwards held school, and had much conversation with Watanui and other chiefs. In the evening, we held service outside our tents, and continued in conversation till late.

November 25. Watanui came at daylight to conduct us to his pa, where all the chiefs were assembled. I had a long conversation with them upon the present state of affairs. Some were for war, and others proposed to proceed to Waikanae, the place of the enemies from whence we had come, when the potatoes should be planted, and they would make peace. Watanui's two sons seem to be well-disposed lads.

November 26. Expressed my wish to my lads to return by way of Taupo, overland, to Tauranga. They were not willing, being alarmed at the length of the journey.

November 27. After breakfast, Wata came for us to proceed with him to Waikawa. On our arrival, we had to go through the usual form of speechifying, which occupied much time. We found a good chapel here, though a small one, and many came for conversation on religious subjects. We gave away four prayer books, and a Testament. After our repast we proceeded, crossing several streams of water, and came in about two hours to Kowau, a pleasant place, with abundance of grass. Natives came out of the pa to welcome

us. Many speeches were delivered upon the present state of the country. Several old ladies came forward to hold a crying in compliment to our lads, their distant relatives. Towards sunset, we all assembled to attend evening prayers. My words, to many of them, were very new, yet all were attentive. Much conversation in the evening; the chiefs appeared generally indisposed to making peace.

Back to Otaki; sent to Wata to know our movements, as he objected to our returning to the opposite party at present. Sent Hemi Tautari to Waikanae to give notice to them to sit close within the pa.

November 29. In the afternoon, we observed a movement among the troops, and crossed the river in readiness for a march towards Waikanae. As the sun declined, our numbers increased. I held evening service on the beach. Several speeches upon state affairs were made. The troops determined to remain for the night, lest they should be overtaken by the rain; but as the distance is rather great for one march, I requested permission to proceed halfway, and wait for their coming up in the morning. This was objected to, as none must precede the Aitua [sacred spear]; and I did not choose to interfere with any of their military customs. However, after some time, it was proposed to send a small party before us; the person carrying the Aitua keeping about one hundred yards in advance. Our attendants were all highly tapued, and we were forbidden to eat until we should have arrived at the enemy's pa; I, however, occasionally stole a piece of biscuit, under cover of the night, as we had not tasted anything since the morning.

November 30. At break of day, our troops came up, upwards of three hundred, and gathered round in full military costume; their heads dressed with feathers, their best mats on, and some of them with shawls tied round their waists. They were desirous of having prayers before moving onward; at the close of which, several speeches were made, all good of their kind; the whakaaro [judgment how to conclude this affair] being left with me. We all pushed on until we came within three miles of the pa at Waikanae, when the chiefs gave Mr. Hadfield and myself leave to drink at the brook, and directed us to go onward to Ngatiawa, to put up the white flag, and declare their willingness for peace; they then shook hands with us, and we continued our march. About fifty men accompanied us till within a mile of their enemy. We crossed a river, and soon joined our friends, the Ngatiawa. A body of natives were out to meet the enemy, should they show any disposition to fiht. We were received with much kindness. All assembled in the general place for discussion, and some used angry expressions; yet the general voice was for peace; and Matahau, their teacher, the young man who formerly lived at Paihia, and who had married the daughter of the principal chief of Waikanae, was selected to go out

to ratify the treaty of peace. We then ate our first meal since noon yesterday. In the afternoon, the troops belonging to Waikanae turned out, to the number of about five hundred, and made a display of their force in a war dance. Afterwards we had evening service, and then met the Christian natives in the chapel, consisting of some native teachers, who accompanied me, and a few from the neighbourhood, previous to my administering the Lord's Supper on the morrow.

December 1. Lord's Day. The natives held prayers close to my tent; the singing, though the tunes were purely native, was very agreeable. Some Europeans came, and expressed great satisfaction that peace had been established. At eight o'clock, we assembled about twelve hundred at service. In the afternoon, we assembled all at school, old and young, and afterwards held evening service, with a very attentive congregation. Continued in conversation with a large party at the tent door till late.

December 3. Obtained some supplies, as my boys had consented to accompany me overland.

December 4. We assembled the natives in the chapel, and admitted our friend Matahau to the christian rite of Baptism by the name of Joseph. It was an interesting service, particularly so, considering that this young man had been made an instrument in the hand of the Great Head of the Church in conveying much knowledge of divine things to his benighted countrymen. We now proceeded to Otaki, and at sunset held service at the tent door. Mr. Hadfield and myself agreed that it would be most desirable that he should occupy this place with Waikanae, from whence we had come this morning, as his main stations, seeing that he could pass from one to the other, on horseback, with ease in an hour and a half, and keep a general oversight of the settlements all round, until he should have more assistance, which it is highly important should be speedily afforded to him.

December 5. Took leave, and commenced my journey alone; more than three hundred miles through the heart of the island,--an entirely new road, not yet explored by Europeans. At sunset, brought up at Waikanae. Heard of Wiremu Neira (William Naylor), who was assembling a large army at Whanganui, to come against these tribes. Much fear of him was expressed.

December 6. The Manawatu; a large river, with large quantities of drift-wood. This river will doubtless be of importance at some future day.

December 9. Our road lay over sand-hills for two hours and a half, to the Rangitikei, where we found the land much improved. Proceeded up the river in canoes, the current so extremely strong that the natives were obliged to pole the canoe, requiring the greatest care that our bark should not be upset. So irregular was the surface of the current that at times it ran more than a foot

higher than our canoe. I kept my eye upon our boatmen, who appeared perfectly composed, and aware of what they were about; I therefore kept myself perfectly quiet. On landing at the pa, the people drew up, rank and file, to shake hands. Hakeke, the chief of the place, most anxious for my protection and comfort, took up his abode at my tent door, as guard for the night.

December 10. Desired to move on, but the proposition was opposed, as a large body of natives were expected from Whanganui, with hostile intentions against Otaki.

December 11. Ngatiruanui arrived. Wiremu Neira came to my tent, of whom I learned, with great surprise, that they were on an expedition against Otaki, having been sent for by Paura.

Gave him a severe lecture, which he took very well, though much confounded. He at last observed, "What could a native teacher do by himself?" He excused his party having their guns from the circumstance that Tamati Waka took his people over to the Bay of Islands with their guns. I gave him notice that after dinner I should go to his taua, and give them my opinion on their proceedings. I found them very obstinate and saucy; they said they were going to carry the gospel, and shewed their books. Our party drew off, highly displeased.

December 12. Natives talking all night; discussing the subjects of the day, whether to proceed, in defiance of what I had to say, or to return. At daylight, assembled the people at my tent door for prayers, after which, one of the strangers addressed the taua. After breakfast, heard much loud speaking among the taua. Drew near, in order to learn the point of interest. Much inflammatory language; extremely insolent. Many spoke, but all of Ngatiruanui very violent for proceeding at all hazards.

These impudent fellows profess to be under the guidance of this Wiremu Neira, who cannot read, and is extremely ignorant. The sooner this ceases the better for all. After dinner, had conversation with lads from Taupo, which was very cheering after the contest of the forenoon. These youths had books, which had been given them from Rotorua. Wiremu Neira sat by, but said little. Learned that the taua felt very uncomfortable at their insolent conduct. They said that if Neira proposed to retire they would do so. I gave Neira a close word upon the impropriety of his conduct. Whether they go on or retire will be determined by the Great Disposer of all events. Heard much of a baptism which had been introduced by that man Neira, and had many questions proposed to me as to its correctness. This ceremony appears to be the washing of the head, which has always been considered as sacred by the Maori, in warm water, out of an iron pot; the person at the same time confessing

his sins. This ceremony, termed kokiro, is supposed to effect a washing away of sin, and a release from tapu. A perfect cheat of Satan. 11

December 13. Neira came to hear my further opinion. I observed that it had been already given. Took my departure about eight a.m. Neira followed me about a mile, and told me that he should return on Monday, and some, if not all, of the taua. Crossed two rivers in the afternoon; Whangaehu appeared of some consideration. Had a good sight of Taranaki [Mount Egmont] and Tongariro; both covered with snow in the height of summer. Two most magnificent objects,--one on the coast, the other in the interior of the island.

December 14. Arrived at Putikiwaranui, on the Whanganui, the largest river of this coast. On the banks, up which I was to proceed into the interior, are large settlements of natives.

December 15. Wiremu Neira returning on his way home. Assembled on the beach to service; a congregation of three hundred. Engaged in talk with Wiremu Neira and others, reprobating the new kokiro doctrine.

December 16. At daylight, much noise and firing of guns; Wiremu Neira and others leaving for Taranaki. After breakfast, held council with the chiefs respecting their land, as they were in considerable alarm lest the Europeans should take possession of the country. All approved of their land being purchased and held in trust for their benefit alone, 12 Fearing delay, the chiefs determined to conclude the affair immediately. They accordingly took it in hand, and, with their secretary, drew out a rough draft for my approval. Closely beset; natives wishing to thrust themselves into the tent.

December 18. Crossed the river, to see two parties. Kurukanga and other young chiefs came; very solicitous for books.

December 19. Turoa and other chiefs came to see us off. I promised that a Missionary should soon come to reside among them, and do trust that this most interesting post, where all are eager for instruction, will speedily be cared for. They requested that the Missionary might bring a wife, as then he would be likely to stay with them. Moved off, after being detained for our party to finish crying. The river was very broad for about ten miles up, with level land where it became narrower, but steep hills on either side. At four, we landed at Kauarapaua, the pa of Te Tauria, the chief of Ngatipa, the original inhabitants of the place. Received many applications for books. Tauria, though very unwell, came across the river; all insisted that he had been makutu-ed [bewitched].

December 21. Landed at Uritini, a pa of some size. The natives importunate for books. Again at Oawitu; the same solicitations. Passed on to Ihurangi, for the Lord's Day. The people were delighted at the arrival of a Missionary among them. I found several who could read, and there was a great demand for books. Towards sunset, we assembled all for evening prayers; all seemed highly gratified.

December 22. The natives assembled at my tent at break of day. After breakfast, at which I had many spectators, the bell, an old musket-barrel, was rung for service, and I had a good congregation. The responses were very good, and called forth the admiration of my fellow-travellers. I consider the service of our church to be singularly adapted for the preservation of order in these native congregations. I was kept in close conversation, on important points, all day. In the evening, again held service. The natives were very urgent for Missionaries to come and reside among them.

December 23. It was determined by our friends that we should go to Pukeika this morning, return to this place, and take our departure from hence, across the country, to Taupo. We landed at a small settlement, to see the people, who were very much delighted, I being the first Missionary who had visited them. I was kept in close conversation for about two hours, the people having gathered for that purpose. They were here also very pressing for the residence of Missionaries among them. The demand for books was also very great, but my stock was nearly exhausted. About noon, we arrived at Pukeika, a formidable place, and the surrounding scenery grand. The eminences were covered with wood, save where the land had been cleared for a hamlet; the river, winding between the hill, gave a finish to the landscape. Being obliged to wait until morning, I took up my abode on the beach. Some natives, hearing that I was in the neighbourhood, came down the river to see me. Two young men, in particular, took up their position close to me,

and kept me in close conversation, till I could talk no more; they appeared to be in a pleasing state, and could read well. I gave away the last of my books here.

December 24. At daylight, three bells for morning prayers were heard from different hamlets in the neighbourhood, a pleasing sound. The two young men renewed their inquiries. At eight o'clock we took leave, and passing rapidly down the river, landed, at ten, at the place from whence we were to commence our march to Taupo. Our party consisted of twenty-five natives and three pigs; we parted with the two natives who brought us up the river from Whanganui heads, and were now about to return. We were detained two hours at the place of Aomaro for potatoes, as we had here to arrange our provisions for the road, there not being any place of refreshment between this and Taupo, nearly a week's very difficult march. At dark, we brought up by the side of a river, Te Umukoura, at the bottom of a very steep hill, which called forth my utmost effort to keep my footing. Some of our party did not come up till ten o'clock.

December 25. At eight o'clock we arrived at Mangaitoroa, a fine stream of water. The descent to the river being nearly perpendicular, I was obliged to take off shoes and stockings to prevent slipping. A fearful road. One of our fellow-travellers, the largest of our pigs, fell down the precipice, and broke nearly every bone. Detained for two hours, while the boys cut up the pig. One of our natives gave notice that we should meet a tira [a party], as he had struck his foot against a root.

December 26. About noon, we met a small party coming from Taupo; they gave us news of wars and rumours of wars, and were very much surprised at finding a European in the wood, especially when they discovered that he could speak to them in their own language. As our meeting was in accordance with the notice given yesterday, our party had much conversation upon the truth of the prediction of our fellow traveller.

December 27. At peep of day we were on the move, climbing over very large trees, and going through low, swampy ground. At eight o'clock, we were thankful to find ourselves clear of the wood, and entering a level country. The volcano Tongariro rose before us, the summit covered with snow, a splendid sight! The road we had just travelled was certainly the worst we ever passed over; in many places we had to creep under trees, and again to climb over and walk along the trunks of those which had been blown down. During the remainder of the day, our road was generally level, but intersected by many streams; at one place was a very singular rush of water from a rock, which formed the source of a large river. We brought up for the night at the foot of Ruapehu, the land very high, and apparently but a few feet below the snow which lay on the mountain.

December 28. To-day we travelled for five hours over barren ground, no vegetation of any kind, one continued bed of pumice-stone. We passed through a rushing stream of sulphurous water from Tongariro, and crossed the source of Waikato and several other rivers. Our walk was very uninteresting, except that towards the close of the day we met with some rare plants.

December 29. Lord's day. Our party lay quiet till eight a.m., everyone being much overcome. We have little food left, having expected to arrive at Taupo yesterday. At noon, we assembled for service, which we much enjoyed.

December 30. Obliged to walk through heavy rain, having no provision. Passed Roto Aeru, a fine lake on our left. We at length arrived at an old plantation, where we found some wild potatoes. Continued our March till four, when we arrived at a settlement on lake Taupo, a magnificent sheet of water, about thirty miles in length, with various fine bays. We were received with great kindness, and abundance of food handed out, though almost all the men had left yesterday on a fighting expedition, in consequence of a kanga [native curse] having been uttered respecting a chief. These abominations have nearly ceased northward. Toward sunset, I assembled all for evening prayer, and addressed them; while I was speaking upon the necessity of laying aside their lying vanities, a woman, who may be said to be under the influence of an evil spirit, came forth with the utmost fury, and declared that if these things were spoken against, she would cast herself into one of the boiling springs, and instantly ran off, professedly for that purpose. Several followed to secure her, while others coolly replied that she had better do so. I continued without further interruption, noticing to them the enmity of Satan to their even hearing of the one true and only God, and Jesus Christ whom He had sent. In the evening, I had much conversation with the people assembled around my tent, who were full of curiosity and wonder at all they saw and heard.

December 31. In the morning, a deputation arrived from a place at a short distance from us, to request our removal thither, as some of the leading men on the lake were waiting for us. We accordingly got under weigh and went to Te Rapa. Many speeches were made by our friends, who bade us welcome, and we had also to speak in our turn. We had here an evidence of the duplicity of old Watanui, the chief of Otaki, near Kapiti, from whom we brought a letter to the chief of Taupo; in this he desired that the people of this place would not attend to anything I had to say, as it was all deceit, but make a requisition for the tribes to go and join him against Ngatiawa, to renew hostilities, though peace had just been established. All much surprised at the conduct of Watanui, but as the character of the Missionaries was well known, his letter was treated with silence, and Iwikau, a brother to the principal chief, said he would not comply with the desire of Watanui, but would accompany me to the

Bay of Islands. We afterwards proceeded to Pukawa, where was a a good chapel erected at the desire of Mr. Chapman. I began to feel myself drawing near home, from having arrived at a place where one of our Missionaries had been. I had much conversation with the people here, though they did not evince any great anxiety for instruction.

January 1, 1840. At break of day we started for Motutere, that we might arrive before the wind sprang up. The place was small and dirty, and very much crowded, owing to their continued fears of attacks from the tribes of Waikato. We were not long here before there was considerable disturbance among the natives, everyone running for guns, and a general preparation for battle. I at length heard that the party who had come to settle the affair of the kanga [cursing] had taken away a man's wife, in defiance of all remonstrance. The disturbance, for some time, assumed a serious aspect. I was thankful to have an opportunity to send a messenger to Rotorua, to give notice of my having arrived thus far on my way. I examined all who could read, and found twenty-six who could do so, some of them very respectable. I had a good assembly round the tent, till late. Iwikau told me he would not go with me, owing to his fears of Ngapuhi (the Bay of Islanders); after some time, however, he concluded to go.

January 2. We proceeded to Rangatira, a very confined place, upon a point projecting into the lake. The people here were in much fear of Waikato tribes. I was glad to find a chapel here, and that all professed to be believers. I was engaged in talking until a late hour. Messengers arrived from Rotorua, bringing a short note from Mr. Morgan; they had heard, by way of Tauranga, that I might be expected, and had sent me some tea and sugar and a bottle of porter. The chief sent his son to accompany me, to fetch a Testament and a few books and slates.

January 3. We passed down the river Waikato, about three miles, and landed at some boiling springs, a very terrific spot; we were obliged to move with every possible care, lest we should fall through the ground into some dreadful cauldron below. On landing, one of the boys went to gaze, when a column of hot water issued with a horrible roar. The lad was reproved by the old people of the place, the spring being held in superstious regard, After breakfast I felt inclined to see this hot fountain, which we had not observed in motion since the retreat of the boy. The natives, seeing me approach, called out that it was the abode of the God of the Lake; however, I advanced, though with caution; I put my staff near the orifice of the fountain; a surly growl was heard from within, and up spouted a column of boiling water, warning me to retreat with all despatch. The natives immediately raised their voice, and particularly desired that I should not repeat my visit. I thought it most advisable not to do so, lest by another eruption they might be still more confirmed in their

superstitious ideas. Towards sunset, we ascended a steep and high hill, which was very wearying, being at the close of a fatiguing march. I felt it the more from not being able to discover the necessity of doing so, as our road appeared to lie over level ground. I was, however, amply repaid by finding a pleasing little band of enquirers after truth, who had formed a pa on the summit of the highest hill which could be found, as a place of refuge from the tribes of Waikato. There were two very old men, who could not read, but were well acquainted with many leading points of Scripture doctrine and the services of our church. Several young men could read. Though I was very tired, I held service, and afterwards continued in conversation with them till a late hour,

January 4. We took breakfast on the new bridge over the Waikato river, which is a very noble piece of work in itself, and must have been attended with much trouble. The bridge is formed of four very large planks, the ends of which rest on a rock in the middle of the stream: I was surprised to learn that the river does not rise in the winter,--the rain being, I presume, absorbed by the vast tracts of pumice, which extends for many miles. Towards the close of the day, I felt very faint, from the heat, and must have halted, had not Mr. Morgan's horse arrived, which in about two hours conveyed me to Ohinemutu, the pa of Rotorua. The chiefs assembled, though it was dark, and detained us, to hear all the news from Kapiti and Taupo. They afterwards furnished me with a canoe, which soon carried me to Mr. Morgan's house, at Mokoia, the island in the middle of the lake, where I was very glad to sit down once more in the quiet abode of a Missionary.

January 6. Old Te Heuheu, the principal chief of Taupo, came from Maketu. Much interesting conversation respecting Kapiti, Taupo, and the contemplated wars.

January 7. Went to Ohinemutu, for the purpose of meeting chiefs, to determine what should be done respecting Maketu, the grand bone of contention between them and Waikato, but found them too childish to arrange. Sent a messenger to Tauranga, to give notice of my intention to proceed on the morrow.

January 8. Took departure for Tauranga.

January 9. This morning, the rain fell heavily; but, as this was the last day, all were in good spirits, and determined to proceed. Our walk was exceedingly comfortless, as we soon became wet through. The rain continued till noon. At two o'clock, we emerged from the wood; my clothes, shoes, and hat torn to pieces. I could scarcely keep them on. While pushing my way through the wet bush, I came suddenly upon my brother, who had arrived at Tauranga three days ago, and had set off this morning, with my third son, Henry, to meet me, my note having been received last evening. This was a most unexpected pleasure, as I had concluded that he, with his family and my son, must have proceeded to

his station, never anticipating that he would put into Tauranga. At sunset, I had the pleasure of meeting my brother's family, Henry and George Clarke accompanying him to Poverty Bay; I had much news to receive, much to relate, and many mercies for which to be thankful. It was truly a joyful meeting.

Henry Williams to Mrs. Williams.
December 6, 1839.

I have altered my route, and am proceeding overland to Taupo, Rotorua, and Tauranga; then, I trust, home. We left the "Columbine" more than three weeks since, and have been put to considerable inconvenience at her non-appearance; I am now travelling with little more than what I stand in. I obtained a supply of sugar, flour, &c, and a pair of shoes, from Captain Mayhew, which enables me to proceed onwards.

Such is the importance of establishing a Mission at Whanganui, that, rather than not hold here, I would come with my family; in the Bay, there is no idea of the state of things in this part. There is, I understand, good riding from here to Kawhia, also to Port Nicholson.

I have secured a piece of land, I trust, from the paws of the New Zealand Company, for the natives; another piece I hope I have upset. Our friend Ripahau I baptised on Tuesday morning; the work which has been effected through his means is great. I am sorry I have no books to give away as I pass along; they are all on board the "Columbine." They require, to begin with, here, not

less than five thousand prayer books and two thousand Testaments, besides school books, slates, writing paper, &c. I want much to return home, to have a talk with Mr. Mason, and Mr. Burrows, if arrived. One of them must come here; for it will not do to leave Mr. Hadfield here by himself. We must have men and women down here, and that immediately.

January II, 1838. The pamphlet relative to the New Zealand Association, and your remarks, we have now under consideration. I have read them with

considerable interest, and do not hesitate to say, that unless some protection be given by the British Government, the country will be bought up, and the people pass into a kind of slavery, or be utterly extirpated. The European settlers are making rapid advances, and are beginning to hold out threats. Should any encouragement be given to the Association, thousands would immediately come and overrun the whole country; and the natives must give way. The only protection that I can propose, is, that the English Government should take charge of the country, as the Guardians of New Zealand; and that the Chiefs should be incorporated into a General Assembly, under the guidance of certain officers, with an English Governor at their head, and protected by a military force; which would be the only means of giving weight to any laws which might be established, and preserve that order and peace so much required. The natives have many years since proposed that this should be done, and have repeated their desire from time to time.

Your letter of July 6, 1837, has been brought under the consideration of the Committee of Missionaries; and it is with much apprehension they view the introduction of the New Zealand Association, as it must terminate in the total ruin of the people, as a nation, if entered upon as proposed, though so recently received under the nominal protection of Great Britain. As yet, there is no shadow of Government in this country; each tribe, and each individual of a tribe, acts independently of every one; hence those acts of violence which are committed with impunity, and the sale of land, which the natives are too frequently disposed to make for the sake of a little present gain, without considering future consequences. We therefore regard, with considerable fear, the announcement of this Association, in the present state of the country,--as they will be enabled to purchase up the whole island, without fear of opposition, and, consequently, claim a right of sovereignty,--to prescribe laws to all within their dominions, setting at defiance any means which might be afterwards entered upon for the protection of this people. The Missionaries have endeavoured to devise some means whereby the land might be preserved more sure to the rightful owner, or the sale of land be more difficult or less general; but have not succeeded. The natives have, in some instances, proposed to give their land in trust to the Missionaries, to preserve it from being sold by any single chief, or purchased for a nominal value by any designing European, or company of Europeans. There are two large tracts of country now held in trust for some of the tribes in the Bay of Islands. This has been the means of preserving the land at present to these tribes; but it has been disapproved of by the

Corresponding Committee, though no better means pointed out . . . The natives are very degraded, under the subjection of Europeans of corrupt habits; and though we have been preserved by the good Providence of God, still do we live in the fearful foreboding of some political convulsion, which must necessarily result from the serious position of our affairs. The Europeans residing at present in the northern part of the island may be estimated at more than one thousand, and daily adding to their number. In May last, we forwarded a Petition to the King and Parliament, praying for protection against the lawless bands of Europeans residing on shore in this island. We regret we do not observe in your communications to us any means pointed out whereby New Zealanders may look for protection from encroachment, excepting the appointment of a small ship of war.

June 18, 1838.

I hope our letter to you, relative to our views respecting the proceedings of the New Zealand Association, will arrive in sufficient time to be of some use to you, in preventing so great an evil to this people, as the establishment of such a Company in this land. In that letter you will see our general opinion; and as Europeans of different nations are frequently arriving among us, it is highly important that no time should be lost, for the preservation of the tribes around. The natives frequently enquire what course to take, and are evidently alarmed at the present movements.

Your letter to Lord Glenelg I have read, and think your arguments much to the purpose; though I am not quite so ready as you are to give to those gentlemen, connected with the plan, full credit for the purity of their motives, and the benevolence of their intentions. In my own mind, I have no doubt as to their intentions, which are benevolent to themselves alone.

Your observations (p. 16), "knowing as I do, &c," were perfectly correct at a certain period of the Mission; but for some years past, in consequence of the general influx of Europeans, we have had

great difficulties in restraining the natives from disposing of their lands. This fact I should have thought you were in full possession of, from the frequent communications from hence upon the subject. At this settlement we hold two large tracts of land in trust for the natives of the Kawakawa. This was objected to by the Corresponding Committee, and communications thereon made to you, with reasons for entering on the trust.

It is worth the while to make a short extract or two from the correspondence of other members of the Mission, the more effectually to dispose of the reiterated charge that the Mission were opposed to the colonization of the country. It is worth the while, simply because the charge is untrue. There is always some gain in chasing a falsehood out of the world,--in diminishing the number, even by one. But what if they had thrown obstacles in the way? could that be decently made a charge against them? What came they forth for to do? Was it not to devote themselves, at the sacrifice of all hope of worldly fortune,--even of life, should the sacrifice be required, to the well-being, moral and material, of the native race? Were they likely, or could they have been expected, to take any but the one question into consideration,--to stray from the path marked out from them. It was a matter of opinion only, and, as usual, supposed difference of opinion was treated as a crime,--was persecuted by those who boast of being ultra-liberal, but whose practice, as obtains with most of their sect, is inversely as their profession. It adds, however, to the discomfiture of reckless assailants, to be shewn that they have been wrong, not only in their deductions, but in their facts; in premisses as well as in conclusions. The Mission, in the unbiassed exercise of their own opinion, deeply impressed by the evils which they saw gathering around them,--evils against which they felt themselves powerless to make head, did come to the conclusion that, in the interests of their flock, it were better that the country should be governed by the Crown. To the necessary incidents of the change they were not blind; but they may be pardoned for not having foreseen the follies and vagaries of those who, having succeeded in shaking off the effective control of the Crown, and in substituting a travestie of what they are pleased to term Responsible Government, created and

fostered the bitterest hostility between the two races; hostility which even now, by virtual withdrawal of European pretensions, is scarcely appeased.

Waimate, May 26, 1838.

What the British Government will do, in the present case, appears uncertain. But to deliver up a country, which is not their own, into the hands of a company of men whose primary object is gain, is a crime, I trust, my countrymen will never be guilty of. That something ought to be done, there can be no doubt; or we shall soon get about us a lawless band, who will possess a sufficient force to take possession of the country, whenever they think proper. . . . If the country is to be colonized, let it be done by the British Government.

August 7, 1838.

I have lately been favoured with your expositions of the plans and views of the Colonization Society for this land, and caught a hasty glance at Mr. Wakefield's reply to it. We certainly do look with apprehension on such a project; and have little doubt but that it will result in the extermination of the aborigines, and not without loss to the settlers. Their idea of sitting quiet in this land, with an armed force and such extensive powers, is ridiculous: the desultory influence of a few scattered settlers is so different from that of a body of fortune-hunters, who organize that influence into a system, and support it by power . . . . . Both publications were, I think, too sweeping, in speaking of European settlers. They are not all so bad as has been represented. At the Bay, there are some worthy and respectable individuals, besides others scattered throughout the land . . . . . The remarks, however, may stand good of the majority of the settlers.

May 25, 1840.

Since my last letter, Mr. Williams, the Senior Missionary, has been here, deputed, as he implied, by Captain Hobson, to purchase the sovereignty of these parts of the island from the chiefs, and to lay claim for himself to the land I mentioned in Lambton harbour. In the former object he was unsuccessful, the natives referring him to me; but at length, when the chiefs learned that Mr. Williams and myself had come to an arrangement respecting his claim to the land, and had received from him a quantity of blankets as the price of their submission, they executed, I am told, some paper, of the purport of which they assure me they were totally ignorant. The whole transaction took place in an underhand way, and without the countenance and assistance of any of colonists.

With respect to the land claimed by him, amounting to forty acres or more, in the best site of the town, to which, in the opinion of everybody here, he had not a shadow of right, the bargain with the natives who assigned it to him two months after my first visit here having been concocted in fraud, I thought it better to compromise the matter with him, and to ensure the support of the Church Missionaries, by giving him an interest in the place; and, therefore, after a candid avowal on his part that he wished to have a slice for himself, and other confessions equally disinterested and compatible with his pretended anxiety on account of the native reserves, I agreed to give him an acre of the land he claimed for himself, and one acre for the sole use of Richard Davis, the native; they, in consideration of the land being surveyed, yielding all their rights to the Company. I cannot express to you the feelings of repugnance entertained by the respectable colonists who came in contact with Mr. Williams towards him, on account of his selfish views, his hypocrisy, and unblushing rapaciousness.

In November, 1839, I paid a visit to Kapiti, at the express desire of Rauparaha, the principal chief in Cook's Straits, who had sent up a deputation to me of his son and nephew. We put into Port Nicholson, the wind not allowing us to proceed direct. Here I found some of our old natives, amongst whom was Richard Davis, who informed me of the whole of the proceedings of Colonel Wakefield in the purchase of Port Nicholson and the surrounding country, together with the opposition which he himself had given, and that his own piece of land he had not sold to the Company. Davis and his wife accompanied me to the northward, and after some weeks he mentioned to me that his wife had been wishing that they should proceed to Taranaki, her own country, and that he thought he should sell his land in Port Nicholson. I remonstrated with him; but told him that, should he dispose of it, I would give him what he should require, and that he and his people might remain upon it as long as they wished, and that the land should remain for them. It was for this purpose I made the purchase, being at that time wholly ignorant of any reservation of land for the natives in the way in which I have understood it. On my return to the Bay of Islands, I mentioned the circumstance to the local Committee of the Church Missionary Society, and recommended that it should be taken as the public property of the Society until we should see how the Company might act. This was declined on the part of the Committee, as it would bring us into immediate collision with the Company, which it was thought better to avoid; accordingly, the whole expense was thrown upon my hands. In the following May, I returned to Port Nicholson, with the treaty between Her Majesty and the chiefs of that part of the island, to obtain their signatures. I waited on Dr. Evans on my arrival, from whom I learned the general proceedings of the Company, and the reserve of one hundred and ten acres in this the first township, besides an equal number of country sections, with which I was perfectly satisfied, and expressed the same to Dr. Evans. I mentioned, therefore, to Dr. Evans the purchase I had made of a piece of land within the township, and that I was willing to see what arrangement could be made respecting it. I did not see Colonel Wakefield till Saturday following, at the house of Mr. Hunter, when he used highly improper language. In the presence of several gentlemen, I informed Colonel Wakefield that I should not enter upon the subject while he indulged in such language,-- that I had already shewn my desire to Dr. Evans to meet the wishes of the Company, if it could be done. I observed that I would meet Dr. Evans on the Monday following; and, accordingly, on the Monday Mr. St. Hill and I met Dr. Evans at the house of Davis. Dr. Evans mentioned, to my surprise, that he had been retained on the part of the Company to dispute the claims of

Davis to the land in question; that he was only a slave, and had no right to it. I observed to Dr. Evans that I was sorry he had assumed such a position, as I was in hopes we might have adjusted the matter quietly; but if he thought otherwise, we must come to an immediate conclusion,--that I had shewn a willingness, on my part, to enter into an arrangement, which was now declined by him; therefore the consequences he and they must take upon themselves. I observed, that I was well acquainted with the custom of New Zealand, and that I maintained the right of Davis prior to the arrival of Colonel Wakefield. Our conference here closed.

After some hours, Mr. St. Hill came to me and renewed the conversation. He asked me, if I would give up the claim for a sum of money. I replied, certainly not.

On the Wednesday following, while preparing to take my departure,--not being able to obtain the signatures required, owing to the opposition of Colonel Wakefield and others to the treaty between the chiefs and Her Majesty, Colonel Wakefield came to me, making a most ample apology, and expressed his regret that he should have given way to his hasty feelings on the previous Saturday, and hoped that I should not leave the port with unfavourable feelings, and that he was ready, if I wished, to make a public apology. The fact was, that Colonel Wakefield wanted the land, and was willing to make any sacrifice confined to words. I replied to Colonel Wakefield, that I also much regretted that he had allowed himself to be carried away by his feelings; that his apology was sufficient, I desired no more; that I had, on my arrival, waited on Dr. Evans, and had shewn a desire to enter into an arrangement about the land, learning, as I had, that reserves had been made on behalf of the natives; that I saw that their town would be materially injured without the land in question, as it was a most important and valuable spot. I therefore told Colonel Wakefield that, in consequence of the reserves having been made, I would present the land for the benefit of the Company, reserving one acre for Davis, and to have any portion myself, I could not have less than one acre.

The reservation of these two acres was more particularly to shew that the land was mine by right of purchase; that I had full right and power over it; and by virtue of that right I presented the land to the Company, and, in order to put that right beyond dispute, I reserved these two acres, and also my right of a first selection of the same upon the said land, which will be seen by the Deed.

Colonel Wakefield evidently did not expect this donation, from his great surprise expressed. Dr. Evans and Captain Smith, Surveyor-General to the Company, observed to me, in the presence of others, that the Company would not allow this act of magnanimity to pass unnoticed; that they should recommend that country

sections should be attached to these two acres; and, moreover, they recommended that I should take these said two acres to myself; that the Company would look out and provide for Davis. This I declined. I observed to these gentlemen that the Company could, if they thought proper, make acknowledgment of this transaction.

I need scarcely say, that the only acknowledgment ever received by me, is the extract of the letter of Colonel Wakefield, which appears in "The Times" newspaper for September 5, 1840.

The following is a copy of my letter to Dr. Evans, on the presentation of my Deed to him.

Port Nicholson. April 29, 1840.

My dear sir,--In presenting the Deeds 19 of land lying between the two streams of water, Pipitea and Raurima, I beg to observe that I do so for the benefit of the Colony, from a representation that the available land for a town is confined.

I reserve for myself one section; less I could not. For the young man, Richard Davis, I also reserve one section; these two sections, of course, I select prior to any others upon the same land.
Wishing you and the colonists every prosperity, I remain,

Your most obedient servant,
HENRY WILLIAMS.
To Dr. Evans,
Thorndon.

Of the correctness of the statements of Colonel Wakefield you may now be able to form some idea. I challenge Colonel Wakefield, or any other person, to call in question, in any one particular, my explanation.

The land presented by me to the Company was not less than sixty acres, in the first situation in the town, at that time not worth less than ten thousand pounds, and now probably worth forty thousand pounds. The presentation of this piece of land to the Company, freely on my part, and without one shilling of expense to them, is strikingly at variance with the Colonel's most charitable

expression when speaking of the Missionaries of the Church Missionary Society,-- "but as regards their grasping and selfish acquirement of territory, &c, I can confirm most fully, &c."

The section which I reserved on account of Richard Davis, he is now living upon, and I am happy to say, from all accounts, conducts himself well, and acts as a Missionary among his countrymen.

The section reserved for myself, I intend disposing of, the proceeds of which will be appropriated to the erection of a church in that part of the country where the various members of my family may be located. I need hardly mention that this purpose was formed from the first, and is not consequent upon any observations which have since been made.

It may be fairly assumed, therefore, that it will be only reasonable and just that the Government, having done so much for the natives, should re-imburse themselves from the lands originally set apart for reserves for the benefit of the natives.