CHAPTER IV
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CHAPTER IV
OPOTIKI
BEFORE leaving Auckland for Opotiki, and while on the passage, Mr. Volkner frequently expressed his confidence in the Opotiki Maoris. He was rather sorry that Mrs. Volkner was not with him, and fully intended her to follow by the next trip of the vessel. We arrived off the Opotiki river at about 1/2 past 9 p.m. A prophecy, as we afterwards learned, had been put forth that a vessel full of riches would come up the river, and afterwards one full of gunpowder.
March 1st, 1865.--Immediately on crossing the bar I observed at a distance a very large body of Maoris assembled on the side of the river. I pointed them out to Mr. Volkner. In sailing a little way further it became evident there was considerable excitement. As we approached the landing place it was clear to me that we were amongst the Pai Marire fanatics. Mr. Levy's brother now in a low voice from the bank warned us to be careful, for there was danger. From the time of crossing the bar return was out of the question; all we could do was to go on to the landing place. Before the anchor was dropped the vessel and all on board were in possession of the Natives. Mr. S. Levy had not been allowed to come down the river to give us any warning. We were told by several Maoris not to go on shore. After a little while, a tall Maori belonging to Taranaki came on board in an authoritative manner, and, after everything had been examined, stood up and called out to the people on shore, telling them of what the cargo consisted. We remained on board until about 3 p.m., during which time there was great excitement on shore.
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Tiwai told us that we had come "into the lion's mouth!" We also learned that Mr. Volkner's house had been plundered, and that the Europeans' stores had been examined and a price fixed by the Natives at which the goods were to be sold. We were now all ordered on shore. This indeed appeared a dangerous moment! On landing an old fellow with a rope in his hands made a rush on Mr. Volkner, but was pushed on one side. We were then, with the exception of the Captain, all marched off beside the Roman Catholic Chapel, where we remained standing for about 2 hours. The Maoris in the meantime were holding meetings, while the women round about us were making most horrid faces and gestures at us. At length the Taranaki Native before mentioned, with others, came to us, and, after some talk with him about a house to rest in, he had us all taken to one in an enclosure about 300 yards from where we were standing. The next thing was to procure some food and our blankets. We now learned that the vessel had been rifled, and everything removed from her by the Maoris and bundled into the store, and that a Native had the key. At this time there were plenty to watch us, but we were not under guard. The sailors had been to the store, and had procured a few of their things, but returned without any of ours. It was now dark; Mr. Volkner and I, with the sailors, returned to the store and found, as has been said, namely, that the outer door was locked and the key taken away. We went into the adjoining room. Mr. S. Levy was there. We procured a candle. There was a small door out of the room into the store. After a good deal of searching we succeeded in finding our things, and had them conveyed to the house where we were to stay. After partaking of our evening meal in a very rough way, we read the 7th Psalm, the one appointed for this evening, and had prayers. The poor sailors joined us very heartily. After this the good-natured fellows gave us the best end of the little room, and we did all we could to comfort one another. We lay down to rest, but not to sleep. Again and again did Mr. Volkner and myself congratulate each other on being together. During the night we went out once or twice. We were not locked up, nor were they any guards about the house. Had
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preparations been made, escape would have been easy. Until after midnight we could hear the greatest commotion and shouting going on in the Roman Catholic Chapel. We passed a sleepless night.
March 2nd.--Great excitement going on outside. Had prayer together. Read the 9th Psalm. Heard they were taking Mr. Levy's things out of the store, where they had been put the night before. We began to think that money most likely would satisfy them. We agreed to go and speak to the Captain, our idea being to add something to what they had already taken and to propose it as a ransom for us all. Mr. Volkner spoke and said that we ought not to consider money if we could save life. The Captain declined having anything to do with us in the matter. We went away dejected, when poor, dear Volkner said, "We must trust in God!" We returned to our prison-house and had prayers together again, reading the 10th Psalm. After this the tall Taranaki Native, in company with another, came to see us. Just now some grapes, and a quantity of bacon and other things belonging to Mr. Volkner, were brought to us, also a basket of potatoes. While eating the grapes with them a long conversation took place, but to no purpose; at its conclusion one of the Maoris said in broken English to Mr. Volkner, "I see you frightened." At this time they evidently knew what was going on. They told us that the meeting, which we had been waiting for, would soon take place. We quite believed that Patara had returned.
After these men had left another Maori, named Heremita (apparently known to Mr. Volkner), came and asked us to give him all our things to take care of. He took them and put them into a house, and we parted. It was now about one o'clock and we had prayer and reading for the last time. The portion read was the 14th Psalm. My dear friend offered a most earnest prayer. During the morning I could not help noticing the calmness of his manner, and the beautiful smile that was upon his face. About 2 p.m. a number of armed men (perhaps twenty) came, and, after going through some ceremonies in front of the house, called to Mr. Volkner, as we supposed, to go to the meeting. I pressed again and again to go with him, stating that the
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meeting was for us both. I was forced back and told that my turn would come next. They now locked the door, and left eight of the armed men to keep guard. Again I pressed to go to the meeting but was refused. Two long hours of most painful sadness and suspense passed away, but there was no return of Mr. Volkner. I listened during these long hours for the report of fire-arms, but, as I heard none, I was not without hope that all was right. I now saw Heremita, who had led the party away, return and sit down some 8 or 10 yards from the house. He commenced to tell them something to which they listened very attentively. I caught the words, "He has been hung on the willow tree!" The words went to my heart, and I called upon the Lord. It did not necessarily follow that my friend was hung on the willow. I named the matter to the poor sailors, and they thought that all was over. Shortly after this all the armed men returned in a state of great excitement. I was then called out, and afterwards the sailors. We were marched off between the armed men, who were in single file on each side of us. On reaching the open space in front of the Church there was wild excitement and cries of, "Where are the others?" When some said that they had escaped to the bush, there was more confusion and questions as to where we were to be taken. All this time I was earnest in my enquiries for Mr. Volkner, but could get no satisfaction. We were now led to a house occupied by Mr. Hooper, a settler, outside of which we were all robbed of everything our pockets contained.
I begged them to leave me my little prayer-book, but they refused. We were then led inside, and had our hands tied behind us. At this time I was told that Mr. Volkner had been taken to another house. The Captain, his brother, and Mr. Agassiz were now brought in, and tied in the same manner as the rest of us.
Although every one seemed to think that all was over, I did not. My mind halted between two possibilities--that this was a piece of mischief on their part, in order to give them the opportunity of robbing and frightening us, or that it might be a fearful reality. Had I known of the murder of Mr. Volkner I should doubtless have thought differently.
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We were kept tied in this manner for about an hour and a half, during which time some one asked for water, when a Maori carrying a pannikin passed it from mouth to mouth, and so served us with some. After this a Native came in, and, to our great surprise, loosed us. I began to think that this part of the business was some sort of a sham.
I asked what it all meant, when the answered: "A time to bind and a time to loose; a time to kill and a time to make alive." I have no doubt it was done to give them the opportunity of robbing us, and to teach us that we were prisoners.
Poor Mr. Hooper is a sick man! He was lying on a bed at the time in this house, which was plundered. I saw a Native come in and take all the bed-clothes off Mr. Hooper, almost rolling him on the floor. I remonstrated with him, and the cruel fellow, as he was leaving with the blankets in his arms, came up to me and said (somewhat ashamed) that it was because the Pakeha had been very hard about a debt; and then went off with the things.
After this, upon enquiring about the house in which I had been told Mr. Volkner was, one of the Europeans said to me in a quiet way, "Ask no more for him, you will not see him again." This was the first certain information I had of his death. My worst fears were realized, and my heart was sad indeed. Of course, from what they told me when they took Mr. Volkner away, I fully expected to follow. We were now given to understand that we were to sleep in this house; the three who were tied last were allowed to go elsewhere.
The sailors now began to look out for some food, of which they stood in great need. Henry, the Teacher in charge of Mr. Volkner's house, had in the morning brought us in a quantity of very fat bacon. This, with some potatoes, tea, sugar and biscuits from Mr. Levy's store, supplied our wants. There were in this small house, which consisted of one small room, the sick man, four sailors, myself and six or eight Native men, women and children. Owing to so many people and the fumes of tobacco, the suffocation at night was almost overpowering. Soon after dark we lay down on the floor. The sailors, by some means, had got their blankets from the prison-house we
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had left a few hours before, but mine had been taken, I lay down next to one of the sailors. They had managed to spare a blanket for me, and this good-natured fellow gave me his coat for a pillow. I could not sleep. There was too much moving about to have evening prayer; I could only, in private, commend myself and companions to the watchful care of our Heavenly Father. I had every reason to believe that this would be my last night on earth. God's gracious presence did not forsake me. As I lay awake I could distinctly hear the confusion--the dancing and shouting going on in the Romish Chapel, and also in the Church. Thus ended this day, upon which the first blood was shed in New Zealand for the Gospel's sake.
THE MURDER.
I am thankful to say that I did not witness the death of dear Mr. Volkner. I can give only the substance of what I heard on the spot. When he was led away from me, we both supposed it was to a meeting. He was first marched to near the Church, where it appears his coat and waistcoat were taken from him. He was then taken 200 yards in another direction to beneath a willow tree. If not before, he was now doubtless convinced as to their intentions. He asked them to let him have his prayer-book, which was in his coat pocket; they brought it. He then knelt down and prayed, and, having shaken hands with his murderers said, "I am ready," and, while they continued to shake hands with him, they hoisted him up. I have two reports as to the time he struggled; Dr. Agassiz thought not longer than an hour; others said an hour or more, and that when he was taken down there were still signs of life. I trust the latter opinion is incorrect; however, there can be no doubt he was allowed to hang for upwards of an hour. I also heard that they shot him while hanging. When he was taken down he was carried near to the Church beside a small house belonging to the Station. Here he was laid down, and his head, with a considerable portion of the bust, taken off. Heremita, the man who came to us a little before Mr. Volkner was led away, and who took all our things under pretence of taking care of them, and
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who afterwards was the leader of those who carried him off, was the person who cut off his head. The scene where this was done was most dreadful. They were eager to taste his blood, and many rubbed it on their faces. Some of his old friends took part in all this! From my own observance the people appeared to be half lunatic, and so worked up by their new religion as to be ready for any work of the devil. Kereopa forced out Mr. Volkner's eyes and swallowed them, and afterwards desired the body to be given to the dogs. Some one else wished it to be buried.
It was at length thrown into a hole and lightly covered with earth. It is a significant fact that Pokeno, the son of Aporotenga, the Opotiki Chief, killed by Tohe's widow at Maketu, was the individual who put the rope round Mr. Volkner's neck.
3rd.--This was a day of bitter suspense. The excitement was great. I now learned that Patara had not returned. I was under the impression that Mr. Volkner had not only been killed, but eaten. It was therefore not too much to suppose that I also would be taken off and served in the same manner, especially as I had been told that "my turn was to come next." At an early hour I heard the noise of their horrid worship. I saw their ovens lighted, but all passed over without any interference with me. At this time I learned some particulars relative to the murder, and quite expected that in the course of the day I should be led off.
In the forenoon Deborah, the wife of an old Native Teacher, came to enquire what things Mr. Volkner had brought down with him in the vessel. When I told her that I knew of nothing but a dozen bottles of wine which had been given to him for the sick, and some medicine, she, in a most scornful manner, exclaimed in broken English, "It's all gammon; the wine for himself!" and began to find fault with him. After this I understood they were holding a meeting. I thought it well to send a proposition to them by a Native. I proposed the sum of £500 as a ransom. To my great comfort I found this morning in the house, amongst some of Mr. Hooper's books, a small prayer-book which, with his kind permission, I made use of. I afterwards found that it had poor, dear Volkner's
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name in it. Some of the Psalms for the day appeared written for the occasion.
Mr. Volkner's last act for his people was one of kindness. He was often the medium of communication in taking down the half-yearly amount of a legacy for a Native woman, the widow of a respectable European. About half an hour before he was led off to his death, I saw him pay over the money, apparently with great satisfaction.
4th.--Mr. Volkner, who knew Patara, spoke of him as a bad man, so I had little to hope for from his return. Captain Levy assured me to-day that he had supplied coverings for the body, and had had it decently buried. During the day I had heard it said that I was to be sent to Taranaki. In the evening it was reported that Patara had returned.
5th.--Heard the meeting was to take place in the forenoon. Sent a request to see Patara. He passed Mr. Hooper's house where I was and shook hands with me. The few words I had with him made me hopeful. About an hour afterwards we were summoned to the meeting. What kind of trial, and what sort of charges were to be brought against me, I knew not. On my way the feeling of conscious helplessness flashed across my mind, followed by the words of our Lord (Matthew x. 19), "But when they deliver you up, take no thought, etc."
We assembled in the new Church, to the building of which our friend had devoted so much labour and care. Chairs from Mr. Volkner's house were brought for all the Europeans. Besides the Taranaki fanatics who took their seats within the Communion rails, there were over 300 Maoris belonging to the place present.
THE TRIAL.
Patara sat outside in front, and about 3 yards from the Communion rails. He began with expressions of anger against all soldiers, ministers and Englishmen; but for all Jews, Frenchmen, Austrians and Germans they had love.
Mr. Volkner's Case.
Three charges were brought against him by different Maoris to justify his death.
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1st. His going to Auckland as a spy for the Government.
2nd. A cross had been found in his house, and therefore he was a Romanist and a deceiver.
3rd. He returned to Opotiki after having been told to remain away.
The second charge, respecting the cross, broke down.
So far as the third charge was concerned, several witnesses said that they had told Mr. Volkner not to return. I was able, from their own remarks, to show that no Committee had been held to tell him to stay away, and that only a few separate individuals had warned him. Patara, very cleverly, in winding up, tried to make it appear that he should have stayed away if only on account of the fact that we were at war; but he refrained from saying that he justified the murder--I think he regretted it.
My Own Case.
Patara--"What did you come here for?"
"To go to Whakatane and Matata at the request of the people themselves."
Patara--"Why did you go so lately to Taupo?"
"To fulfil my promise, and in answer to several letters sent to Auckland asking me to go."
Patara--"Why did not the Governor let them have clothing?"
"Because we were at war."
Patara--"Why did we teach them things for the benefit of the soul only, and not for the body?"
"Because of the great value of the soul, but we have also taught you many things for the body."
I gave instances and referred to Matt. 6. 33.
Patara--"Why did you not teach us this new religion that we have found out?"
"Because we did not know it--our religion is the Word of God."
Patara said that we had taught them to repent, to be baptized, to receive the Lord's Supper, and not to commit adultery; now they had found out that this was all deceit. Then followed a long discussion on the land question, all the arguments in common use amongst the Maoris being
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brought forth. These I answered by pointing out that neither Mr. Volkner nor myself had any land.
Turning to the other Europeans, he had the Jews pointed out, in order to distinguish them from the English sailors, one of whom, by the way, had the good fortune to be a Scotsman.
Patara, again turning to me, said, "You must go with me to Turanga." I objected, saying that I could not travel on Maori food. Several Maoris spoke up and said that I was "very strong to walk," named my former travelling on the East Coast and, latterly, in Taupo. Told them that I was not now as strong, and had not travelled on Maori food. Proposed again to them either to take a ransom for me in money, or to make an exchange in prisoners. After some discussion they agreed to take Hori Tupaea. Patara promised to write a letter to Tauranga for Hori to be liberated; this letter the Captain agreed to take, and bring back Hori, or a letter from him; also one from Mr. Clark, the Magistrate, on the part of the Government, to say he was at liberty. This done and I should be free. Here the meeting ended. I spoke to Patara, who said he would see me again. At night he said I might write to Mrs. Grace, but that he must first see the letter.
The trial ended thus. Nothing was decided about the murder of Mr. Volkner. I was a prisoner until Hori Tupaea should be brought to Opotiki, or known to be at liberty. Mr. Levy was a hostage for his brother to continue trading. It was understood that the vessel should be given up, and another meeting was to be held to arrange about payment for what had been taken from Captain Levy.
Feeling more at liberty after this trial I changed my abode to Tiwai's house.
6th.--I saw Patara early this morning and told him that Hori Tupaea was really at liberty. He informed me they were going to have a meeting at Opotiki (inland, 2 miles off) and wished me to go to it. He also told me that I was at liberty to go about, that they were not like the Europeans who shut up their prisoners. He charged his people to see that I had plenty of food. Saw Patara again about 10 p.m. when they were starting inland. He spoke kindly. I declined to go inland but pressed to be set at liberty. He
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said he would agree to this if the others did, and, if the meeting consented, he would return in the evening to tell me; if not he would send the letter about Hori Tupaea.
I questioned him about Bishop Williams. He said he would himself go to him and send him quietly away. I then advised him to keep close to his people and not to leave them, as I felt sure that if he had been here Mr. Volkner would not have been killed.
I saw the prisoner, John Brown, a soldier, and sent messages by him to Bishop Williams. I did not desire to write. I learned much from this prisoner about the Taupo Station, which had been plundered by this party on their way from Taranaki to this place.
The sailors to-day returned to the vessel and began to pump her out and set things to rights. Mr. Agassiz kindly cut his pencil into two and gave me one half. Tiwai gave me a little note-paper that I might write to Mrs. Grace. Two Maoris came and sat with me for a long time. I made many enquiries of them respecting their new superstition and endeavoured to show them that the new language they supposed some of their people spoke was, for the most part, sounds without any meaning. While these two men were with me I wrote a pencil note to Mrs. Grace and gave it to them to send. I afterwards wrote a copy of it and asked them to compare the two. The copy was to be kept for others to see in the event of the original being sent. At this time there was a hope of the vessel going the next day.
Night came; Natives returned from the meeting inland, but Patara did not come, nor could I hear anything of the letter he was to send. The vessel had been given up, and it was agreed that payment was to be made for the things taken. I lay down to rest but not to sleep. Everything looked dark and doubtful. In the morning Patara and his party were to start for Turanga; about 20 Opotiki Maoris were going with them, which would bring the whole party up to about 50.
7th.--I had determined, during the night, to try to get a horse and to go off 8 miles inland to see Patara again before he started for Turanga, and so to make sure of the letter. I failed to procure a horse and did not go.
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Afterwards, as I was walking about, I saw Henry and Eru, two Maoris with spades, looking about the place I had fixed upon for Mr. Volkner's grave. Eru asked me to mark the spot. When I had done so they began to dig.
9th.--In conversing with an old woman this morning I found she was returning to Whakatane, also that the Maoris there desired me to be free. I therefore ventured to send by her a few lines on a scrap of paper, torn from the margin of a periodical.
10th.--From various remarks of the Natives it is evident that they will not yet allow the vessel to sail. This is the 10th day from our arrival, but only 5 days since Patara left. The Maoris say the rain has prevented them from bringing payment for what they have taken from the Captain.
11th.--Everything fair for sailing if the Natives would allow the vessel to go. At 5 p.m. a woman came up and told me she was from Whakatane, and immediately afterwards two men from the same place said they had a letter from the Chief to let me go. At this time a meeting was going on to stop the vessel. The Maoris would not allow her to go until the 10th day from Patara's departure, and payment had been given for the things that had been taken. Report says that the Ngati-Awas (the people of Whakatane and Matata) may be expected on Monday to set me free. The two Maoris just arrived have brought word that Hori Tupaea is at liberty.
12th (Sunday).--How unlike Sunday--not one sign remains to show that it is the day of rest! After having morning prayers I paid my accustomed visit to the grave of dear Volkner, and afterwards went to see Dr. Agassiz and arranged finally to meet privately in the morning to read the burial service.
15th.--Eparima, a Native of Turanga, came from Whakatane with a letter and message from the prophet of that place for my release. He appears very desirous that I should be at liberty.
At about half-past nine a.m. met the Doctor to read the burial service over poor, dear Volkner. It was truly a solemn hour. His is a martyr's grave and the fine church, which through his exertions has been erected, is his best
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monument. Never shall I forget this burial! My heart was filled with mingled feelings of thanksgiving and sorrow. Never have I read our beautiful service with so much satisfaction. Never have the words, "Blessed are the dead that die in the Lord" appeared more appropriate. At the conclusion I could not help asking Dr. Agassiz, in case anything happened to me, to have me buried by his side.
14th.--Otere Te Arahi, an old man, has just told me that they will pay the Captain all he has lost. This Maori also tells me that he warned Mr. Volkner not to return.
The meeting to-day of Eparima is so far satisfactory. If I could procure a letter from their prophet at Matata, I might get off. The vessel is to leave in the morning. Will she sail for Tauranga or Auckland? I have not the slightest certainty of knowing! The sailors do not seem to know.
15th.--The vessel dropped down the river this morning but cannot get out--the wind is contrary. Sent letter by Eparima to Bishop Williams to send me help if possible.
No wind for the vessel to get out. The sailors came up and were desirous to serve me by taking letters, or by seeing Mrs. Grace for me. I gave them a letter for Archdeacon Brown in case they went to Tauranga, and another for Mrs. Grace in the event of their going to Auckland.
16th.--As I was dressing Tiwai came to the door and said, "There is a vessel outside! "After dressing I walked out of the enclosure and distinctly saw her three masts. At about 1/2 past seven, just as we were commencing breakfast, Captain Levy went on to the roof of the house. On coming back he said, "She has come to!" He left the breakfast and went out. I heard him say, "Give me a paddle." I immediately got up and went to the bank of the river and saw him and his brother getting into a canoe close below me. He pushed off and in a moment, without a word, paddled down the river with all speed. I went back and took a little breakfast, when it was announced that some one had landed from the steamer away to the right of where I was--the river bears away to the left. I went out of the enclosure with Tiwai and William King, an assessor from a distance. Mr. Agassiz was also there.
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They were all in a state of great excitement, and were going off to meet the two messengers from Turanga.
I begged, first of Tiwai and then of William King, as Government Officers, for one of them to stay with me, as I should be carried off and no one would know where I was. They refused, declaring that they would be killed, and told me to stay where I was. I felt indeed forsaken on every hand; went into my room and committed myself to the care of our Heavenly Father, and afterwards made the following note: "I consider that I should not have been left here, but have been kept in the front, or put on board our own vessel, which there has been nothing to prevent up to the present time."
Great excitement was going on outside all this time; men flying off in all directions on horseback to call the people together. The bell of the Roman Catholic Chapel was ringing, while the shouting and noise were incessant.
I walked about for upwards of an hour and a half expecting every moment to be killed. No one was near me but an old woman; nearly all the Natives were away inland, four miles off, whilst the rest were gathering at a distance to meet the Turanga messengers. I walked about and waved my hat to the Schooner for them to come and take me, but all to no purpose.
At length, to my surprise, I saw a boat coming up the river with the Captain, the mate, John Moore and Lewis Montague. It came to Mr. Levy's store, about 40 yards below where I was. Young Montague came to me and said, "If you will go round to the point where you were yesterday we will take you in." The old woman was in the yard at the time. I walked quietly out and passed the store, where Captain Levy and the mate were getting out the goods as fast as possible. I now saw that to go to the point was to run into the greatest danger, as I must, by so doing, pass through a number of villages. I therefore worked my way through only one, then got down on the bank of the river; when about 50 yards below the store, where the boat still was, John Moore, I think it was, called out, "Stop!"
In a couple of minutes they dropped down to me, and, without anyone but the old woman seeing me, I got into
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the boat and lay down, and was quickly rowed to the schooner without any opposition. The goods saved from the store being now deposited in the Schooner, another of the sailors, Owen Jones, with the greatest willingness came on the boat, and, in ten minutes more, I was safely on board "H.M.S. ECLIPSE." Captain Freemantle immediately sent his boats to tow out the Schooner, and in a short time all were safe! The two Turanga messengers were still on shore, but, after the greatest perseverance on the part of Captain Freemantle, the Bishop of New Zealand and Mr. Rice (a magistrate from Tauranga), they were finally brought off the next morning.
(Sd.) T. S. GRACE.
(March 1st to March 16th, 1865.)
