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PASSAGES IN A
WANDERING LIFE
BY
THOMAS ARNOLD, M.A.
OF UNIV. COLL., OXFORD: FELLOW OF THE ROYAL UNIVERSITY OF IRELAND
LONDON
EDWARD ARNOLD
37 BEDFORD STREET
1900
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Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & CO.
At the Ballantyne Press
[PREFACE]
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PREFACE
AN old controversy, and one that, I suppose, will never be decided, relates to the comparative wisdom or unwisdom of a father's determining the future career of his son, and bringing him up under the persuasion that he must reconcile himself to that and think of no other; or, on the contrary, leaving him free to make his own choice, down to the very close of the years of education and preparation. My father, Dr. Arnold of Rugby, so far as his judgment may be inferred from his conduct in the case of his two elder sons,--his other sons were too young at the time of his death for the question to have arisen as to them,--was of the latter opinion. He must have seen how strong was the bent of my eldest brother's mind towards poetry, and literary composition in general; and to the best of my belief he never thought of prescribing to him in any way either the field within which, or the aims towards which, he should set his genius to work. Both my brother and I looked forward to a residence at Oxford as the natural close of life at a public school, and my father regarded the matter in much the same light, trusting that, after Oxford, each would find the groove suited
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to him. For us, and for all of his children, the precept flowed steadily from his life, still more than from his lips, "Work." Not, work at this or that--but, Work.
In my case, it must be confessed, his confidence was somewhat rash; and there is no telling whether difficulties which I escaped, or was helped through, simply because I bore an honoured name, might not have overwhelmed me under other circumstances.
Through Oxford I passed according to my father's wish and disposal; and what is said in the narrative as to the early unsettlement of my opinions must not be taken for an admission that I had lost all power of self-control. I held on to the Oxford life, though it had become distasteful to me, till I had taken my degree; knowing that an Oxford degree, and a good place in the class-list, were an insurance against future embarrassment and want, which whoever had the power to provide himself with, was inexcusable if he did not do so.
Whether or not I acted foolishly in going out to New Zealand, I declare on my conscience I do not know; those who shall do me the favour to read the following chapters will be in as good a position to form a judgment on that point as I am myself.
T. A.
DUBLIN, February 1900.
[CONTENTS]
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CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
Birth at Laleham--Fledborough--Sir Charles Penrose--Rugby--Dr. Arnold--Journeys to Westmoreland--Winchester School--Keble and Hursley--Grisi and Macready--Badger-baiting--Cathedral--Whately--The Stanleys--Mr. Hull--Judge Coleridge--Sir Grey Skipwith--Bunsen--Tom Hughes--Hodson of Hodson's horse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
CHAPTER II
Life at Fox How--Westmoreland society--Wordsworth, Southey, Hartley Coleridge--Captain Hamilton, Sir T. Pasley, Mrs. Fletcher--North-country clergy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
CHAPTER III
Oxford life--Clough and Theodore Walrond--I resolve to emigrate--Voyage to New Zealand--Passengers--Palma--The Dutchman--Kerguelen's Land--Mount Ross--Reach Otago--Proceed to Wellington--Otaki and back--The Makara valley--The Porirua road--Disappointment . . . . . 55
CHAPTER IV
Flaxbourne--Frederic Weld--The earthquake--Port Underwood--The Wairau--Journey to Nelson--The Dillon Bells--The country round Nelson--School there--Nelson settlers--Major Richmond, Mr. Stafford, and others--
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CONTENTS
Alfred Domett--His career--His "Ranolf and Amohia"--Bishop Selwyn--Letter from Sir William Denison--Return to Wellington--The Shan van Vocht--Wellington weather--Death of Colonel Wakefield--Epuni--British and Greek civilization--Left New Zealand--Sydney--Melbourne . . 94
CHAPTER V
Arrival in Tasmania--School inspection--The Educational Commission--Illness--Commencement of duties--Marriage--Sir William Denison--Route across the island--Epping Forest--Entally--Orphan school--Tasmanian native children--Extinction of the native race--Efficient schools--Lord Robert Cecil--Road to Richmond--John Frost--Ride to Bream Creek--To Circular Head--Snakes--Dry's Bluff--Bushrangers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
CHAPTER VI
Religious perplexities--Maurice, Carlyle, and Milton--Pyrrhonism--Conversion--Leave of absence--Arrival in England--William E. Forster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
CHAPTER VII
Newman in Dublin--The Catholic University--He retires to Edgbaston--St. Patrick's Day--Glendalough--Removal to Birmingham--Newman at the Birmingham Oratory--The Church--The Refectory--Rednall--Life in Vicarage Road--Illnesses--Clifton--Home and Foreign Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
CHAPTER VIII
"The Church and the Churches"--Liberalism in politics and Liberalism in religion--Bias of English Catholics towards Conservatism--Influence of women--Primrose Dames--Personal instability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
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CONTENTS
CHAPTER IX
Settlement at Oxford--1865 to 1888--Old endowments--Dr. Temple--Combined lectures--New schools--Faculty teaching--Has Oxford "given herself to the Philistines"?--Wellington in 1847--Peel--John Bright--Cobden--Monckton Milnes--Death of Cardinal Newman in 1890--The Irish University question . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
CHAPTER X
Journey to Sweden--The Gota Canal--The falls of Trollhattan--Lakes Wener and Wetter--Stockholm--Swedish sculptors--Swedish scenery--Wadstena and St. Brigit--Attitude of Swedish Lutherans towards Catholicism--Vist to Upsala--Its Cathedral--Its University . . . . . . 212
CHAPTER XI
Visit to Rome--Grandeur of the site--The true capital of Italy--Services rendered by the Popes--Necessity for a just peace. § 1. Rome from San Montorio. § 2. The Emissarium and the Capitoline Temple. § 3. The Colosseum; Horace and his Sabine Farm. § 4. San Gregorio and Santa Agata de' Goti. § 5. Rome of the Middle Ages; Campo dei Fiori; Church of St. Brigit. § 6. Return to England; Clusium; the Trasimene Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Frontispiece
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