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GEYSER, BOILING CATARACTS, AND STEAM JETS ON THE WAIKATO
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THROUGH THE DISTURBED DISTRICTS OF
TOGETHER WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE
SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.
[Greek] Os d'ot an aixi noos aneros, ost', epi pollin
yaian elilouthos, fresi peukalimisi noisi'
enth' eiin, i entha' menoiniseie te polla'--II. XV. 80
With Maps and Illustrations from the Author's Sketches.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
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LONDON: PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.
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The following pages are extracts from my Brother's Journal which he kept while a Lieutenant of H. M. ships 'Curacoa' and 'Esk' in Southern waters, four years before he was cut off by a fatal accident in the twenty-seventh year of his age. They were originally printed strictly for private circulation, but are now published at the request of friends connected with New Zealand, as serving to illustrate a curious phase in the history of that colony, and therefore likely to possess more than a merely personal interest. They have been edited in moments taken from the pressure of constant work; and, with the exception of a few trifling corrections, are printed almost as they appear in my Brother's MS.
For the revision of the proofs, so far as regards the Maori spelling and nomenclature, I am indebted to the kindness of Sir George Grey, at whose request, while Governor of New Zealand, the expedition to Lake Taupo was undertaken.
The object of this journey is fully explained in
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the subjoined fetter from Sir George Grey, by whose permission I here insert it.
September 22, 1869.
MY DEAR MEADE,
I return you the proof-sheets of your poor brother's journal. I hae read it with very great interest. From my knowledge of the country through which he travelled, and of the race who inhabit it, I can testify to the great accuracy of his descriptions. I have never read anything more spirited, and at the same time more faithful, than his descriptions alike of the country and its people are. I seemed, as I read them, to be living again in a country I know so well.
Your brother is quite right in saying that it was at my request he undertook the journey to Lake Taupo, although I did not contemplate his separating himself from Poihipi, or Busby, the native chief who accompanied him.
During the period of the war in New Zealand, no Europeans had visited the great Lake, and the friendly chiefs and tribes of that part of the island complained of their having been quite deserted by the Government. A cessation of hostilities had taken place, and I thought, as your brother states in his journal, that the confidence I should show, by sending Europeans again amongst them, would be productive of much good amongst those who had recently joined the Government, as well as amongst the tribes who had always been friendly to it.
You, who know so well how great was your brother's courage and love of enterprise, how winning was his manner, and how good his heart was, will understand what were the qualities in him which drew me to him, and made me think him the fittest person to undertake such a journey.
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I would only add that very great benefits resulted from the expedition to Lake Taupo, which himself and Mr. Brenchley so successfully carried out.
Very truly yours,
(Signed) G. GREY.
I have added his account of two cruises, while on the same station, in the South Sea Islands, which, though not so full as that of the journey inland, will perhaps not be read without interest.
The illustrations are from his own drawings.
R. H. MEADE.
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Departure from Auckland--The party and object of the Expedition -- Tauranga -- Iguanas and Cuvier Island birds -- Gate pah and Te Ranga rifle-pits -- Penetake of Wairoa -- Crossing the ford -- Maketu -- Whare for winter use -- A Tangi -- Holding the Runanga -- The Treaty Stone and Arawa politics -- Description of the pah -- Maori toasts and races -- Christmas at Maketu..........Page.1
Start for Taupo -- Williams' house -- First steam-jet -- Lakes Rotoiti and Rotorua -- Hostile pah --Mouria pah -- Sleep at Ngae Mission-house -- Hau-hau faith -- Difficulty of a native assessor -- Legend of Hinemoa -- Hot springs and mineral waters of Ohinemutu -- Maori women and tattooing -- Warm lounging-stones -- Arrival of Hauhau emissaries -- Danger from boiling springs at night -- The great geyser -- Native bathers -- Hot fountains -- Father Boibeaux -- Arrival at Motutawa -- Te Kepa's house -- Lake Tarawera -- Crossing the hot river -- Te Tarata, the great hot spring -- Mud volcanoes -- Lake and mountain scenery -- Effect of lightning -- Maori alarm -- Karolina's visit......................29
Pairoa Range -- Honey and the dragon-flies -- First view of the Waikato -- Geysers and steam-jets at Paul's settlement -- The Turkey question -- Porokaia's present -- Dr. Hooper -- Cairns -- Poihipi's home on Lake Taupo -- Hochstetter's opinion -- Kingite neighbours -- Lake scenery -- Rev. Mr. Grace's mission and its fate -- The Falls -- Wild fowl at the Bitter Lake -- Wardanee and Tangi -- Love of fighting inherent in the race -- Mount Tongariro and volcanic eruptions -- Arawa legends -- Cascades -- Return to Poihipi's village.......60
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Mr. Grace driven away -- Change in the people -- More warm springs -- Lava and pumice blocks -- Warlike rumours -- Native cookery -- Grand duck-hunt -- River scenery -- A wild pig -- Ascent of Mount Tauhara --The comet --Long delay and difficulty of returning -- Hostility of Te Heu-heu -- Choice of routes -- Reasons for separation from the rest of the party -- Determination of the Kingites to fight -- Difficulty in procuring a guide -- Dark prospects -- A clairvoyante cook -- Departure with Hemipo -- Fear of darkness -- Forest scenery......................Page.93
Ihaka's mission -- A dangerous meeting -- Tataroa -- Captured by the Kingites -- Pai Marire worship -- Ihaka's narrative -- Impossibility of escape -- Debate on the prisoners' fate -- Hemipo's defence -- Appearance of Ahumai -- Release and alarm of treachery -- A ride for life -- Reach the friendly pah of Oruanui -- Arrival and report of Ihaka -- Rejoin Messrs. Mair and Brenchley -- Pai Marire tenets -- Mr. Mair's escape -- Mr. Volkener's murder and escape of Mr. Grace -- Murder of Mr. Fulloon -- Mr. Mair's expedition against the murderers -- Capture of Teko pah.............. ........119
Cross the Waikato -- Meeting with Poihipi -- Party of Uriweras -- Overtake Mr. Brenchley's party -- Camp out -- Mountain terraces -- New Zealand pigeon -- Mohaka -- Evening prayers -- Pohuhe -- Between the sheets -- Arrival at Napier -- Auckland Club -- Points of Maori character -- Immorality -- Infanticide -- Hospitality --- Administration of justice -- Capacity for work -- Christianity -- Prospects of the race....................153
Norfolk Island -- Sydney Bay -- Singing and dancing -- Confirmation and the Bishop's sermon -- Savage Island -- Mr. Lawes and the Samoan teachers -- Dress and character of the islanders -- Tutuila -- Pango Pango Harbour---Beautiful tropical scenery -- Native houses--Maunga the chief -- Visit to the great waterfall -- Native dance on board-- Population and religion -- A proselytizing captain and a trader's trick -- Crime, climate, and government -- Upolu -- Apian morals -- Dinner at the consul's -- The Dodunculus -- A christening on board -- Waterfall-- Religion, government, and produce..........171
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Tongatabu -- Protestant missionaries -- Visit to King George and his palace -- Taxation and land tenure --Royal dinner on hoard -- Charley Moafu -- Lesieli, the Tongan belle -- Repulse and death of Captain Croker, of the 'Favourite' -- The King's dinner-party -- Religion and dress -- Lakunba and Ovalau Islands -- Viti Levu -- Mr. Moore, the missionary -- The gathering of the warriors at Bau -- King Thacombau -- Cannibal cookery -- Viwa Island -- Expedition to Rewa -- Meet Mr. Crulman -- The great river -- Rewa, the Fijian Venice'--King Tui Drakete -- Messrs. Carey and Baker -- The boat capsized -- Purchase of curios -- Thacombau's history -- Fijian proverb -- Charles Savage -- Fijian cruelties -- Fiji group -- Exports and government -- Kandavu --Messrs. White and Nettleton on polygamy -- Amiteum or Annatom -- Homicide on board a trader -- Mr. Underwood's whaling station ...............Page.203
Messrs. Gordon and Paton -- Their determination and prospects -- Nova Scotian Mission Society -- Tanna -- A chief's dress -- Failure of negotiations -- Operations of the landing party -- The Marum, or dancing-ground -- Engagement with the savages -- Death of Quatangan -- A misfire -- Submission of the native chiefs -- Laws and government -- Dillon Bay -- Erromango -- Mr. Henry, the sandal-wood trader -- Murder of Fletcher -- Messrs. Williams and Harris -- Projected expedition against Narai's village -- Scouting by night, with its results -- Submission of Warris Nangri -- Fate of the guide -- Vila Harbour -- Vate and Deception Islands -- Moafu's exploit -- The chiefs submit -- Leave the New Hebrides and sail for Banks Islands......230
Vanua Lava -- Unhealthy climate -- "Supwe" club-house -- Inspection of ladies -- Vanikoro -- Graciosa Bay -- Active barter-- Betel-nut chewing -- Solomon Islands -- An earthquake -- Contrarietes -- Land with the Bishop -- Remarkable canoes -- West Bay, Uji -- Pigeon-shooting at San Christoval -- Recherche Bay -- Fate of native teacher -- Marau Sound -- Guadalcanar -- Florida resembles Norfolk Island -- Trade -- Rodd's atrocities -- Exploring party -- Isabel Island -- First landing of the Bishop -- Ebony tree -- Visit to a tree village -- Pigeon-shooting extraordinary -- Native industry and ingenuity -- Man overboard -- Return to Dillon Bay--Salutary effect of the Tannese operations -- Kaniau and Warris Nangri -- They refuse to appear -- Bombardment
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of Sifou -- Agreement as to use of firearms -- New Caledonia -- Good Cove Harbour and Port de France --H. M. S. 'Falcon' with a mail -- Reception of the Governor--Picnic at the model farm -- Vegetation and scenery -- Dinner on board the 'Falcon' -- Banquet and ball ashore -- Prospects of the colony -- The curfew gun -- Arrival at Sydney....................Page.264
Sail for the Friendly Islands -- Tongatabu -- Father Lamage and missionary squabbles -- Wild ducks and flying foxes -- Moafu, father and son -- Vicarious punishment -- Tongan Stonehenge -- Kava-ring at Lifuka -- Vavau cotton-growing -- Governor David and his son Wellington -- Legend of the submarine cave -- Difficult entrance -- Latte -- Fiji group -- Mbua products -- Waterfall -- Rubbing fire from two sticks -- Mission policy -- Canoe-building..........297
Tui Mbua on board -- Nanduri girl -- Expedition against Ritova -- Village burnt -- A sign of disgrace -- Search for opercula --- Sharks and sword-fish -- Strangers' house at Mbau -- Cannibal fork -- Sacred tree and the braining-stone -- Departure of Messrs. Jones and Thurston -- Kandavu -- Mosquito tree -- Tree ferns -- Mr. White's station..........326
Mr. Nettleton's house at Richmondi -- School examination and students' dormitories-- A dispute adjusted -- Natural history -- Tavuki church service -- Examination again -- Prayer by pipe and drum -- Opercula shells -- Good oarsmen -- General quarters and native astonishment -- Burning bush -- Present of turtle -- Rival ministers and creeds -- Native students -- A letter of thanks -- Alarm of shoals all round -- Mr. Jones, the Consul for Fiji and the Tongan Islands........349
INDEX ........ .................. 369
[LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS]
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
GEYSER, BOILING CATARACTS, AND STEAM-JETS ON THE WAIKATO.
(See page 65.) (Chromo.)............ Frontispiece.
GATE PAH REDOUBT, TAURANGA. (Chromo.).... To face 8
MAKETU ........................ 13
EASTERN GATE, MAKETU PAH .............. 24
OHINEMUTU GEYSER, MOKOIA ISLAND, AND LAKE ROTORUA.
(Chromo.) To face 39
EXIT OF THE WAIKATO FROM LAKE TAUPO. (Chromo.) ..... 73
LAKE TAUPO, WITH MOUNTS TONGARIRO AND RUAPEHU.... 75
PAI MARIRE WORSHIP .................. 128
MAP OF THE LAKE DISTRICTS IN THE PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND......
To face 170
MAP OF THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.......... 171
SAVAGE ISLAND WOMAN.................. 181
SAVAGE ISLAND GIRL..................... ib.
PANGO PANGO HARBOUR.................. 183
SAMOAN WOMAN...................... 186
FOA...... ........ ............ 190
APIA, CAPITAL OF UPOLU ................ 196
CHARLEY MOAFU ......, ............. 207
LESIELI, THE TONGAN BELLE................ 209
TANNA. RESOLUTION BAY ................ 234
FRIENDLY VILLAGE OF SAMOA................ 236
DILLON BAY ...................... 251
NATIVE HEAD-DRESS.................... 267
IDOLS PURCHASED AT WANGO................ 274
VIEW OF LATTE...................... 316