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ROVINGS
IN
THE PACIFIC,
FROM 1837 TO 1849;
WITH
A GLANCE AT CALIFORNIA.
BY A MERCHANT
LONG RESIDENT AT TAHITI.
WITH FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS PRINTED IN COLOURS.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS.
1851.
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London:
SPOTTISWOODES and SHAW.
New-street-Square.
[PREFACE]
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PREFACE.
The notes in the following pages have been copied, during the monotony of a protracted voyage, from the original entries, extending, as will be seen, over a series of years. The author has often been without sailing directions, and for the most part without charts, other than general ones of the Pacific; and as the results of his experience might save delay and doubt, to others similarly circumstanced, he has been recommended to submit them to the public. Wherever he could obtain the native names of Islands he has done so; they are spelt after the orthography of dialects in Polynesia; the vowels being accentuated as in France and other Continental nations. The notes have undergone little alteration, addition, or subtraction, and but few remarks have been interpolated. They are entirely without claim to literary merit; but for the sake of easy reference, they have been divided into chapters, and furnished with such mottoes, more or less applicable to the subject in hand, as the author's memory could supply. The interest which has more recently
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been felt in England for all that relates to the islands of the Pacific, leads him to cherish the belief that the general information which he has scattered throughout his pages, will be deemed no unfit accompaniment to the story of his personal adventures. The author's days, it will be seen, have been passed, not in the idealities of life, but in its downright rough realities; and he is not without hope that this simple record of his experience may stimulate many a youth, whose energies are lying dormant for want of a field for their exertion in this densely peopled country, to seek, in the Isles of the Pacific, the home and the adventurous career which he is sure to find there, "if he faint not." Should this be the case, the principal end which the author had in view, by publishing these notes, will be fully attained.
[CONTENTS]
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CONTENTS
THE FIRST VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
Determine on leaving England. -- Visit the School-house of my Boyhood. -- Appointed to a Vessel bound to New South Wales. -- Farewell of Home. --Join the Vessel at Deptford. -- Description of my Berth. -- Chance of being starved. --Ship unmoored for Spithead. --Prison-ship described. -- Captain, &c. comes on Board, and shortly after Three hundred and ten Prisoners............1
CHAP. II.
Get under Weigh. -- Put into the Boatswain's Mess. --The Messplace and its Members. -- Blue Water and a Watch. -- Symptoms of Opposition to Imposition. -- A boxing Bout. -- Prisoners un-manacled. -- Night Phenomena. -- Steward's Bewilderment: Ghost Stories do not relieve it. -- A Second Tom Tucker. -- The Captain imparts a Knowledge of the "Royal Brace." -- Chinese Drawings lead to a Threat of exhibiting the Pictures -- Capo de Verde and Tristan de Cunha. -- Gale to the southward of the Cape of Good Hope. -- A Discovery: the Cook's Galley a better Night Station than the Quarter Deck. -- A Growl with Chips. -- How to hail the Watch. -- Pass through Bass's Straits. -- First Glimpse at Savage Life.....................15
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CHAP. III.
Sydney Harbour. -- Involuntary Acquaintance with the Water, before making that of the Land. -- Not quite friendless. --The Town of Sydney. -- Botany Bay. --"Brickfielders." -- Birds and Beasts. -- Hunters' River. -- Newcastle. -- The Country. --River Paterson. -- Deadly Instances of the Venom of Snakes. -- A Ride after wild Cattle. -- The Country talked of. --Corn Stalks. -- Illawara. -- Notices of the Aborigines................41
CHAP. IV.
Off to New Zealand. -- A Gale. -- Bream Bay. -- Bay of Islands -- Kororarika. -- Paihia. -- River Waitangi. --River Kawakawa -- White's Island. -- Roadstead of Warakaihika. -- Roadstead of Rungatukaia. -- Abandoned by the Schooner. -- Overland Trip to Warakaihika. -- Selfish Conduct of a Chief -- A Musical Cargo. -- Return to the Bay of Islands. -- Sojourn on one of the Islands................63
CHAP. V.
Take Passage in a small Schooner bound to the Thames District. -- Captain and Crew. -- Coromandel Harbour. -- Cross the Frith in an open Boat for Wakatinai. -- Arrival at the Maramarua. -- Conduct of Chief. -- The Maramarua----Waikato River. --An Excursion in the Company of Natives. -- A Night Bivouac broken up by Rain. -- A Chief taboos himself against himself. -- Veneration of the Head by New Zealanders. -- Their Disregard of the Value of Time. -- Sleeping in Maori Huts. -- The Waipa. -- Anecdote of a young Giant. -- Left in the Lurch. -- Relieved by a chance Traveller. -- Natives attempt at Extortion -- Scene with a Fury. -- Journey Back. -- Burning Coal -- The Animal and Vegetable Kingdom glanced at. -- The Return to Coromandel Harbour. -- A "Plant" discovered, not a botanical one. -- Removal of a Taboo. -- Tale of a Pipe. -- Natives jolly. -- He that can help himself will find plenty to assist him. -- New Zealand Tactics. -- English Impudence. -- Hot Springs at Wakatinai. --Excursion up the River Thames. -- Construct a Steamer. -- A Fracas from sleeping unconsciously on tabooed Ground. -- Two Chiefs blown up with Gunpowder. -- Mischievous Influence of Atua Chiefs. -- Scene round a
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sick Couch. -- A Halt at the Mouth of the River. -- A Religious Thief. -- Anecdote of a Suicide. -- Estimate of New Zealanders' Character. -- "Wasteful Billy."-- A sick Headache. --Put up for the Night at a Sawyer's Station. -- The River Thames..............84
CHAP. VI.
Harbour of Waikato. --Directions for taking the Bar. -- Canoe Excursion. -- Excitement of the Natives. -- Anecdotes. --Proceedings regarding Adultery. -- A Mission for Port Nicholson. -- Get under weigh. -- A Night Descent into the Forecastle. -- A Meeting with the Chief. -- Seizure of the Vessel averted. -- Leave the Harbour. -- Mount Egmont. --Cook's Straits. -- North Part of the Middle Island. -- Port Nicholson. -- The River "Hut." -- Erroneous Representations and Dealings of Land-sharks. -- Waitimatta or Auckland. -- A Stroll to Manukao. -- Lady Franklin. -- Return to Sydney. -- Remarks on New Zealand..............124
CHAP. VII.
Bound on a wrecking Expedition, &c. -- A Squall. -- Howe's Island and Ball's Pyramid. -- Norfolk Island. -- Nepean Island -- Philip Island. -- Sight the "Rapid" Reef, but a Gale coming on, stand for Rotumah. -- Roadstead of Rotumah, the Island described. -- A Crater converted into a Sepulchre. -- The Cocoa-nut Tree. -- Natives. -- Their Government. -- The Division of the Island. -- The winning and the losing Side. -- The Power of the Chiefs, and whence derived. -- A singular Custom with their Virgins. -- A Marriage Festival and attendant Ceremonies. -- Punishment for Adultery, &c.. -- Atua Chiefs, and their Mode of proceeding to recover the Sick. -- Interment of an Infant. -- Painful Infliction on the bereaved Mother. -- Women always the Sacrifice. -- Kava, its Preparation. -- Sensations of those about to drink, and its subsequent Effects. -- Mode of propitiating an offended Chief. --Play Houses. -- Burial Grounds -- Sports at Night. -- Vanity piqued. -- Disease of the Country. --A Method of taking Fish. -- Islands off Rotumah..............149
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CHAP. VIII.
Sail for the Reef. -- Difficulty in finding it. -- The wrecked Hull heaves in sight. -- The Reef. -- Land in a Boat, and whilst overhauling one Wreck, see our own Vessel fast. -- Sleep on the Sandspit. -- Apprehensions, and a narrow Escape. --Load three Boats, and pass another Night on the Spit. -- Load two Boats, and go on Board for a Spell. -- The Dollars discovered. -- Return to Rotumah. -- The Tamaun Tree. -- Native Canoes. -- Process of Tattooing. -- Circumcision -- Traditionary Origin of Rotumah. -- Superstitious Observances on the Culture and Manufacture of the Turmeric Root -- An unprecedented Privilege. -- Bearings of the Island off Rotumah from the Anchorage. -- Particular Description of Auth Luna or Split Island -- Its difficult Landing. -- A perilous Pass. -- Bold Action of a Native. --Wea Islanders, excellent Cragsmen -- A novel Egg Basket. -- Bird Catching. -- Kindness of the Wea Islanders. --Landing of the Party from Rotumah. -- A Natural Cave. -- A Native Banquet. -- Departure from Auth Luna. -- Attan Islet. -- Regain the Schooner. -- Their Navigator deserts them. --A Row -- Departure from Rotumah..................170
CHAP. IX.
Mywolla. -- Make the Reef again. -- The Captain takes all the Seamen to the Wreck and it falls calm. -- The Vessel drifts out of Sight of the Reef. -- Westerly Current in part accounted for. -- Abandonment of the Wreck. -- Make for the Bay of Islands. -- Alteration of Plans. -- The Vessel grounds on a Shoal off the North Shore opposite Auckland. -- Auckland improved, but Cash scarce. -- "Little Tom" quits the Vessel -- New Master engaged. -- Under weigh for Tahiti. -- Sight Huaheine and Raiatea. -- Pass between Moorea and Tahiti. -- The entrance to it -- Tahiti described. -- Its People. -- Missionary Influence. -- Queen Pomare the Head of the Island. -- The Government shared by seven Chiefs -- Laws in force at Night. -- Ancient Rites superseded by more enlightened Instructions. -- Avata Shark. -- Horrible Sacrifice of an Infant by its Father. -- The Symbol conveyed to an intended Human Sacrifice. -- Form of the unhollowed Oblation. -- Want of Jealousy towards White Men accounted for. -- Conversation with Flowers. -- Process of manufacturing Tappa. -- Native Colours, -- A curious Method of producing a Red Dye. -- Canoes -- Novel mode of Fishing. -- Native Houses. -- Method of Cooking. -- Diseases of the Country.................203
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CHAP. X.
A Pearling Expedition. -- The Island of Maitea. -- Chain Island. -- Engage Divers. -- Neingo Neingo. -- Bow Island. -- Amanu. -- Entrance to Bow Island. -- The Fara Tree. -- A Moral. -- Custom of making Offerings to the Spirit and the Manes of the Departed. -- The manner of Diving. -- Finish Diving. -- The Bow Islanders. -- Visits Agatan, a Savage Island. -- Words not Deeds. -- Timidity of the Divers. -- Singular Ceremonies. -- Valorous Deportment of the Interpreter. -- Takume or Walchonsky Island -- Risks which the Writer had unconsciously encountered. -- Raroia. -- Tainga. -- Makimo. -- Katin. -- Migratory Disposition of the Natives. -- Faiti and Tania. -- Red Pearls. -- Advantages which the Cocoa-nut Tree confers upon the Chain Islanders. -- Their invading Disposition. -- War with Agatan Averted. -- Character of the Natives. -- Get under weigh for Manilla -- Spring a Leak and put back. -- Alter the Voyage, and clear out for Valparaiso. -- Sight the Andes. -- Narrowly escape being wrecked. -- The Port of Valparaiso. --The Town or Almadral -- Sunday Practices. -- Saints' Days. -- Road to Santiago, the Capital. -- Agricultural Instruments. -- Muleteers. -- Country Waggoners. -- Costume of the Ox-goaders. -- A mounted Wassan. -- Mode of Life common to the Muleteers and Carriage Drivers. -- Santiago. -- Anniversary Rejoicings. -- Anecdote of an English Equestrian. -- Equestrian Skill of the Chilenos -- The Maypo. -- Its Bridge. -- Traditionary Saying of the Indians. -- The Almeida. -- Signoritas. --Ball-rooms. -- Gota. ---The Theatre. -- Quiltota. -- Exports of Chili. -- Foreign Commerce. -- Extraordinary Requirement to render written Documents valid. -- A Case in point. -- Periodical Visits of Small-pox. -- Shocks of Earthquakes common. -- Aboriginal Race apparently extinct in the Neighbourhood..............236
CHAP. XI.
The Classes that should quit England. -- Under weigh for Tahiti. -- Gambler's Islands. -- French Priests and their Influence. -- Timoe or Crescent Island. -- Osnaburg Island, or Matilda Rocks. -- Sight Ana -- Drop Anchor in Taonoa Passage, Tahiti. -- French Protection forced on Tahiti by Admiral du Petit Thouars -- Taken to the Calliboose by Natives -- Dish of Sauce from a Mutineer. -- Condolence from a Descendant of the House of Israel. -- Liberation from Confinement. -- The Captors tried and fined. -- The
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Author of "Typee" and "Omoo." -- His Memory assisted. -- Commodore Wilkes -- Bound for Raiatea. -- Industry of the Natives. -- Tapoa, the King of Borabora. -- Tahaa and its Reefs, &c. -- Bound on another Pearling Voyage. -- The Island of Ohiteroa or Rurutu. -- Tedious Passage to Rapa. -- Engage Divers with Difficulty. -- Tioo. -- The Queen of Rapa. -- Her Character for Gallantry. -- Religion of the People. -- A narrow Escape. -- Bass's Rocks. -- Adverse Winds -- Gambier's Islands again. -- Conduct of French Priests. -- Behaviour of Mareva Natives. -- Leave Gambier's Islands -- A Comet. -- Sight Lord Hood's Island. -- Les four Facardines -- Thrum Cap Island. -- At Anchor in the Lagoon of Bow Island----Engage Bow Islanders. -- Sudden Sickness and Death of a Native. -- Visible Tokens from the Tupapan. -- An Arrival from Amann. -- Perfidy of a Sandwich Islander. -- Fishing Excursions. -- Cease Diving for want of Food. -- A Fugitive from the Island of Faeatae. -- Return of the Schooner. -- Captain's Report. -- The Jules de Blosville, a French Brig. -- Conduct of her Captain. -- Give up Diving. -- Remarks on Pearls -- The "Doctor's" Saucepan. -- A Calm. -- Aviri, or Prince William Henry Island. -- A Gale. -- Sight Rapa. -- Go ashore in a Boat. -- Mortality amongst the Natives. -- Superstitiously accounted for. -- Parting Benediction from Rapa. -- Gale renewed. -- Speak the French Barque Jules Cesar -- The Gale continues. -- Again fall in with the Jules Cesar. -- Isle Masafuera. -- Juan Fernandez. -- Reach Valparaiso. -- Arrival of a Schooner. -- Bad Passage made by every Vessel coming from the Westward. -- Loss of the Vessel into which Cargo had been transhipped at Tahiti for Sydney.
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