1839 - Fitzroy, R. Narrative of the Surveying Voyages of His Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle [New Zealand chapters] [New York: AMS, 1966]. - [Front matter] p i-xv

       
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  1839 - Fitzroy, R. Narrative of the Surveying Voyages of His Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle [New Zealand chapters] [New York: AMS, 1966]. - [Front matter] p i-xv
 
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[TITLE PAGES]

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VOYAGES

OF THE

ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE.

VOLUME II.

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FUEGIAN
(YAPOO TEKEENICA)
AT PORTRAIT COVE
Published by Henry Colburn. Great Marlborough Street, 1838

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NARRATIVE
of the
SURVEYING VOYAGES
OF HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS
ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE,

BETWEEN
THE YEARS 1826 AND 1836,
DESCRIBING THEIR
EXAMINATION OF THE SOUTHERN SHORES
OF
SOUTH AMERICA,
AND
THE BEAGLE'S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE.
IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1839
AMS PRESS, Inc.
New York, 1966

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AMS PRESS, INC.

New York, N. Y., 10003

1966

Printed in U. S. A.

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VOLUME II.

PROCEEDINGS

OF

THE SECOND EXPEDITION,

1831-1836,

UNDER THE COMMAND OF

CAPTAIN ROBERT FITZ-ROY, R.N.

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[CONTENTS]

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CONTENTS.

VOLUME II.

CHAPTER I.

Explanation--Natives of Tierra del Fuego, or Fuegians--Passages across the Equator (Atlantic)--Letters---Small-pox --Hospital--Boat--Memory--Fuegians in London--At Walthamstow --- At St. James's -- Beagle re-commissioned --Correspondence with. Mr. Wilson--Fuegians re-embark...........1

CHAPTER II.

Hydrographer's Opinion -- Continuation of Survey -- Chain of Meridian Distances--Efficient Arrangements--Repair and raise Deck--Outfit -- Boats -- Lightning-Conductors --Rudder--Stove--Windlass--Chronometers---Mr. Darwin--Persons on board--Changes--List of those who returned--Supplies--Admiralty Instructions--Memorandum--Hydrographer's Memorandum.................17

CHAPTER III.

Ready for sea--Detained--Sail from England--Well provided--Bay of Biscay--Compasses--Local attraction-- Eight Stones--Madeira--Deception--Squall--Teneriffe --Santa Cruz--Quarantine--Squalls--Cape Verde Islands --Port Praya--Produce--Orchilla--Bad season--St. Paul Rocks--Cross Equator--Fernando de Noronha--Bahia-- Slavery--Abrolhos--Cape Frio ...............42

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CHAPTER IV.

Loss of the Thetis--Causes of her wreck--Approach to Rio de Janeiro -- Owen Glendower -- Disturbance in Rio Harbour--Observations--Chronometers--Return to Bahia-- Deaths -- Macacu -- Malaria -- Return to Rio de Janeiro -- Meridian Distances -- Regatta -- Fuegians -- Lightning -- Leave Rio -- Equipment -- Santa Martha-- Weather--Santa Catharina--Santos--River Plata--Pam-peroes--Gales off Buenos Ayres--Monte Video--Point Piedras--Cape San Antonio--River Plata--Currents-- Tides--Barometer--Absence of Trees--Cattle.............67

CHAPTER V.

Eastern Pampa Coast -- Point Medanos -- Mar-chiquito -- Ranges of Hills--Direction of Inlets, Shoals, and Rivers --Cape Corrientes--Tosca Coast--Blanco Bay--Mount Hermoso--Port Belgrano--Mr. Harris--Ventana Mountain--View--Argentino--Commandant--Major--Situation--Toriano--Indians--Fossils--Animals--Fish--Climate--Pumice--Ashes--Conway--Deliberations--Consequent Decision--Responsibility incurred--Paz--Liebre-- Gale -- Hunger -- Fossils at Hermoso -- Fossils at Point Alta -- Express sent to Buenos Ayres -- Suspicions and absurd alarm--Rodriguez.............97

CHAPTER VI.

Beagle sails with Paz and Liebre ---Part company -- Beagle visits Buenos Ayres--Nautical remarks on the Plata--Sail from Monte Video for San Bias--Lieut. Wickham and tenders --Butterflies -- Sail for Tierra del Fuego-- White water -- Icebergs --Rocks -- Cape San Sebastian--Oens men--Cape San Diego--Good Success Bay--Natives-- Guanacoes -- Cape Horn -- St. Martin Cove -- Gales -- Heavy Seas--Nassau Bay--Goree Road--Prepare to land Matthews and the Fuegians...............114

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CHAPTER VII.

Southern Aborigines of South America...................129

CHAPTER VIII.

Horse Indians of Patagonia: --Head--Physiognomy--Stature--Wanderings--Clothing--Armour--Arms--Food-- Chase--Property--Huts--Wizards--Marriage--Children --Health--Illness---Death--Burial--War--Horsemanship--Gambling--Caciques--Superstitions--Warfare-- Morality--Disposition--Chups--Zapallos..................144

CHAPTER IX.

Fuegians --Form -- Paint--Disposition--Food--Doctor-- Religious ideas--Superstitions--Marriage --Death--Burial-- Cannibalism --Weapons --Women's occupation -- Training--Obtaining food--Fire--Language--Sagacity and local knowledge -- Battles -- Ceremony -- Natives in Trinidad Gulf--Obstruction Sound--Potatoes--Dogs...........175

CHAPTER X.

Set out to land Matthews and the Fuegians--Their meeting with Natives--Supposed Volcano--Dream--Oens-men-- Scene--Arrival at Woollya--Encampment--Concourse of Natives --Jemmy's Family--Wigwams--Gardens--Distrust --Experiment--Westward Exploration -- Remove Matthews--Revisit Woollya--Gale--Sail for the Falkland Islands ................202

CHAPTER XI.

Historical Sketch of the Falkland Islands.................228

CHAPTER XII.

First Appearance of Falklands--Tides--Currents--Winds-- Seasons --Temperature --Rain--Health--Dangers--Cau-

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tions--View--Settlement-- Animals--Foxes -- Varieties --Seal--Whales--Fish and Fishery--Birds--Brushwood --Peat --Pasture --Potash --Orchilla--Grazing --Corn --Fruit --Vegetables --Trees --Plants --Land--Situation of principal Settlement--Prospective advantages--Suggestions--Vernet's Establishment--Reflections...............241

CHAPTER XIII.

Anchor in Berkeley Sound--Le Magellan--British flag hoisted --Ruined Settlement -- Mr. Hellyer drowned -- Burial-- French Whalers--Unicorn--Adventure--Squall--Flashes --Fossils--Killing Wild Cattle--Sail from Falklands-- River Negro--Maldonado--Constitucion--Heave down, copper, and refit Adventure--Signs of weather--Sound banks--Los Cesares--Settle with Harris, and part company--Blanco Bay--Return to Maldonado--Monte Video..................269

CHAPTER XIV.

Paz and Liebre begin work--Chronometers--Fish--Animals --San Bias--Wrecks--River Negro--Del Carmen--Inhabitants--Indians--Trade--Williams drowned--Port Desire--Gale--Salinas--Lightning--Bones in Tomb--Trees --Dangers--New Bay--Cattle--Seal--Soil--River Chu-pat--Drift Timber--Fertility--Wild Cattle--Valdes Creek --Imminent danger -- Tide Races -- Bar of the Negro -- Hunting--Attack of Indians--ViUarino--Falkner............295

CHAPTER XV.

Beagle and Adventure sail from Monte Video--Port Desire --Bellaco Rock--Refraction--Port San Julian--Viedma-- Drake--Magalhaens--Patagonians--Port Famine--San Sebastian Bay--Woollya--Jemmy--Story--Treachery -- Oens men -- Improvement -- Gratitude -- Falklands-- Events--Capt. Seymour--Search for Murderers--Lieut. Smith---Brisbane--Wreck--Sufferings--Lieutenant Clive --Sail from Falklands.................316

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CHAPTER XVI.

Soundings--Anchor in Santa Cruz--Lay Beagle ashore for repair--Prepare to ascend river--Set out--View of surrounding country -- Rapid stream -- Cold -- Ostriches-- Guanacoes -- Indians --Fish -- Cliffs--Firewood--Lava Cliffs -- Difficulties -- Chalia -- See Andes -- Farthest West--View round--Return---Danger---Guanaco hunters --Puma--Cat--Tides--San from Santa Cruz..............336

CHAPTER XVII.

Beagle and Adventure sail from Port Famine through Magdalen and Cockburn Channel -- Enter Pacific -- Death of Mr. Rowlett--Chiloe--Chile--Government--Adventure sold -- Consequent changes -- Plans----Mr. Low---Chonos --Lieut. Sulivan's party--Moraleda--Ladrilleros--De Vea--Sharp--San Andres--Vallenar--Mr. Stokes--San Estevan--Distressed sailors--Anna Pink Bay--Port Low --Potatoes--Indian names--Huafo--Volcano --Chilotes --Aborigines -- Militia --- Freebooters-- Climate--Docks --Tides -- Witchcraft -- Alerse -- Calbucanos -- Cesares --Search for men--Meteors ................359

CHAPTER XVIII.

Leave Chiloe --Valdivia--Earthquake --Aborigines -----Traditions--Words--Convicts ----Tolten---Boroa---- Imperial-- Mocha--Shocks of Earthquake--Anchor off Talcahuano --Ruins--Account of a great Earthquake, which destroyed the city of Concepcion; and was felt from Chiloe to Copiapo; from Juan Fernandes to Mendoza.................396

CHAPTER XIX.

Mocha--Movement of Land--Penco--Ulloa--Shells--Coal --Maule--Topocalma---Aconcagua--Valparaiso--Horcon --Papudo -- Pichidanque -- Conchali -- Herradura--Co-

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quimbo--Wreck--Challenger--Blonde--Ride--Estate-- Colcura--Villagran--Arauco--Former caciques--Coloco-lo--Caupolican--Scenery --Quiapo--Night travelling-- Leubu--Tucapel--Valdivia--Lautaro--Challenger............419

CHAPTER XX.

Challenger sails--Sounds off Mocha--Wrecked on the mainland--Crew saved--Stores landed--Camp formed--Great exertions, and excellent conduct--Mr. Consul Rouse-- Leiibu--Plague of mice--Curious rats--Return to Blonde --Ulpu--Araucanian dress--Arauco--'Boroanos'--Tubul --Bar rivers--Apples--Ferry--Blonde sails--Seek for the Leubu--Schooner Carmen--Errors and delay--Embark Challenger's crew--Rescue the Carmen--Talcahuano-- New Concepcion--Valparaiso--Coquimbo--Challenger's sail in Conway -- Reflections..................451

CHAPTER XXI.

Andes--Aconcagua---Villarica--Islay--Powder--Callao-- Rejoin Beagle ---Constitucion--Plans--Wilson--Carrasco --'Galapagos'--Iguanas--Lava Rocks--Land-tortoises-Craters --Turtle--Shells--Dye--Volcanoes--Settlement --Albemarle Island--Cyclopian Scene--Tagus Cove-- Tide Ripples--Settlers--Climate--Salt--Dampier--Birds --Transportation of Tortoises--Currents--Temperature of Water....................481

CHAPTER XXII.

Dangerous Archipelago of the Low Islands -- Krusenstern --Squalls--Discoveries--Otaheite--Matavai--Natives-- Houses; --Point Venus--Theft--Singing--Pomare--Sugar --Papiete--Church--Mr. Pritchard--Thierry----Shells-- Mr. Nott--Bible--Paamuto Natives--Falkner--'Ua'-- Papawa--Relics--Divine Service--Hitote--Henry--Audience---Queen--Missionaries--Roman Catholics--Form-

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ing head--Meeting at Papiete--Dress--Behaviour--Eloquence of natives--Honourable feelings--Interesting discussion--Venilia..................506

CHAPTER XXIII.

Continuation of the Meeting at Papiete--Questions--Explanation--Meeting ends--Pilotage--Mr. Wilson--Queen's Visit--Fireworks--School--Intelligence--Letters--Inhabitants--Dress--Conduct--Abolition of Spirits--Defect in Character--Domestic Scene--Aura Island--Newton at Bow Island -- Pearl Oyster Shells -- Divers--Steering-- Queen's Letter--Collection--Sail from Otaheite--Whylootacke--Flight of Birds--Navigators--Friendly--Feejee Islands--English Chief--Precautions--La Perouse.................540

CHAPTER XXIV.

New Zealand--Bay of Islands--Kororareka--Fences--Flag --Paihia -- Natives -- Features -- Tattow--Population-- Colour--Manner--War-Canoes--Prospects--Mackintosh --Fern--Church --Resident --Vines --Villages--Houses --Planks--Cooking--Church--Marae--First Mission-- Settlers--Pomare-- Marion-- Cawa-Cawa -- Meeting -- Chiefs -- Rats -- Spirits--Wine--Nets--Burial--Divine Service--Singing--Causes of Disturbances--Reflections and Suggestions--Polynesian Interests --Resources for Ships in the Pacific.....................564

CHAPTER XXV.

Waimate--Cultivation -- Flax--Apteryx--Gardens -- Missionaries -- Farm -- Barn -- Mill -- Grave of Shunghi -- Horses--Kauri Pine -- Keri-keri--Children--Waripoaka --La Favorite--Political condition--Relics--Images, or Amulets--Mats--Leave New Zealand--Remarks--Intercourse--Convicts--Effects of Missionary exertion--Irregular Settlements -- Trade -- Residents and Consuls --

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Missionary Embarrassments--Society's Lands--Discontent of Settlers--Purchase of Land---Influence of Missionaries--Their sphere of action....................598

CHAPTER XXVI.

North Cape of New Zealand--Superstitions--Cook's great Lizard--Traditions---Currents--Thermometer--Sydney --Dr. Darwin--Drought--Aqueduct --Position --Disadvantages--Ill-acquired wealth of Convicts, or Emancipists--Hobart Town--Advantages of Van Diemen's Land King George Sound--Natives--Dance--Keeling Islands --Tides--Soundings--Coral formations --Malays--Fish --Weather--Mauritius--Cape of Good Hope--St. Helena --Ascension--Bahia--Pemambuco--Cape Verde Islands --Azores--Arrive in England..................619

CHAPTER XXVII.

Remarks on the early migrations of the human race..................640

CHAPTER XXVIII.

A very few Remarks with reference to the Deluge...............657

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DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER

FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

VOLUME II.

Chart of Tierra del Fuego ..........Loose.

Chart of Chiloe ..............Loose.

Fuegian (Yapoo Tekeenica)........Frontispiece.

Panoramic View of Madeira...... to face page 46

Crossing the Line....... 7

San Salvador, Bahia... 62

Patagonians at Gregory Bay.. 136

Fuegians--Yacana, Pecheray, &c..... 141

Fuegians going to trade in Zapallos with the Patagonians.. 171

Woollya.............. 208

Berkeley Sound--Falkland Islands........ 248

Bivouac at the Head of Port Desire Inlet..... 316

Button Island, near Woollya...... 323

Fuegians--York Minster, &c....... 324

Cove in Beagle Channel, &c....... 326

Beagle laid ashore in Santa Cruz... 336

Santa Cruz--Plan of Port and River...... 339

Basalt Glen--River Santa Cruz.......... 348

Santa Cruz River--distant view of Andes.. 351

Mystery Plain, near the Santa Cruz.... 352

Mount Sarmiento, from Warp Bay 359

Valdivia... ........... 398

Remains of the Cathedral at Concepcion... 405

Albemarle Island, &c.... 498

Otaheite, or Tahiti ............ 509

Otaheite, Eimeo, Matavai, Chapel........ 517

New Zealanders.............. 568

Note. --The loose Plates are to be folded into pockets in the covers of the volumes.


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