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More seen on returning home than was expected.
LEAVE TAURANGA IN THE GLATTON--SUDDEN ALARM OFF THE ALDERMEN--IMMINENT DANGER--EXCESSIVE REGARD FOR A PALTRY TOBACCO PIPE---THE GLATTON ABANDONED, BUT THE BOAT SAVED---PROVIDENTIAL LANDING---THE GLATTON ON THE ROCKS, BUT THE LADS SAFE OUT OF HER--THEIR PRAISEWORTHY CONDUCT--THE TANEWA---SCARCITY OF WATER---WILD SCENERY -- PERFORATED ROCKS---SHELL-FISH---LIZARDS---THE GLATTON FALLS TO PIECES--- CROSSING TO MERCURY BAY---GROUNDLESS FEARS---WITIANGA---RETURN TO AND FROM THE WRECK---WHITE POPULATION -- JOURNEY TO COROMANDEL HARBOUR---DESIRE FOB. INSTRUCTION---NATIVE LETTERS---PARATENE--HIS LETTER--ACCOUNT OF HIM--CONCLUSION.
On the evening of the sixth of March, at half-past four, or near five o'clock, we left Tauranga harbour; with the wind S. and by E., as fair as possible for us. The Glatton was manned by three white men and a native, and carried a cargo of pigs and potatoes for the Bay of Islands' market; as those articles, at that time, brought in considerable profit. Potatoes were obtained of the natives, chiefly for a trifling exchange of tobacco, and sold at the Bay for four or five pounds a ton; and pigs, for which blankets, muskets, or small casks of powder, were commonly given, were sold also to great advantage. Besides the crew, I had with me Paukena, and five other natives, who offered their services for the Waimate, and joined me at Tauranga.
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THE GLATTON IN DANGER.
Before dusk I was compelled to turn into my berth, from sea-sickness. The motion of the vessel rocked me off into a sound sleep. But it was a rest of short duration; for I was soon startled and aroused by the rough accents of the helmsman's voice, calling out, "We're going ashore, as sure as ever vessel was!" I wrapped my cloak round me and hastened on deck. The sails were flapping in the wind, the men were all bewildered, and the vessel driving into a corner, with the high rocks of the Aldermen Islands directly before us. We ought to have passed between the islands and the main, having fifteen miles of sea-room, and a charming breeze to carry us on; but the repairs of our little craft had not been sufficiently attended to; the rudder head had been broken, and it was not discovered till too late, that the vessel, instead of steering, was bearing up her head to the wind.
We were rapidly nearing the rocks; yet still a lingering hope was indulged that we might weather the point of the outer hummock. But the rudder was utterly useless: every attempt to steer by the sails was equally unavailing: the crazy craft would neither steer nor tack, and in half an hour we were drawing close under the largest of the islands. The only prospect that remained of avoiding shipwreck was to take in all sail and let go the anchors. Not a moment was to be lost. Both anchors were let go; but in an instant the chain cable snapped, and we were left tossing and driving among the rocks, with no better security than a small hemp cable. The wind set directly in upon us; the night, though fine, was
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GREAT AFFECTION FOR A PIPE.
dark; and a heavy sea rolled in upon the rocky shore; so that we were in momentary expectation of being dashed to pieces on the rocks. It is at such an hour the Christian feels that there is but one sheet anchor for a tempest-tossed soul, --an anchor of eternal hope, "sure and steadfast," fixed upon the Rock of Ages. However peradventures or indefinite expectations may serve us in the summer sunshine of prosperity, we need an unwavering assurance to stay upon in the winter night of death, when storms of expected wrath are gathering about us.
"Clear out the boat!" was now the cry. For we had a small two-oared boat on deck, which was nearly filled with sundry articles. Our lads, I think, were not fully aware of our danger. One of them exhibited a most extraordinary combination of apathy and consummate selfishness: apathy as to our common calamity, and selfish desire to save a short dirty tobacco pipe, which he had left upon the things in the boat. When he heard that the boat was to be cleared, instead of joining heart and hand to help us, he called out, --with the calculating earnestness of a man who wishes to save a treasure from destruction, --"Kei pakaru toka paipa!"--Don't break my pipe. The extravagant attachment of the natives to their pipes and tobacco, and the much greater value set upon these articles than upon the interests of their best friends, I had often had occasion to notice and lament; but never before could have imagined them capable of carrying pipe idolatry to such a pitch.
The boat being hoisted out and let down into the water, two of the white men jumped into her to re-
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THE GLATTON ABANDONED.
connoitre the coast. At great risk I joined them: for the vessel was rolling from side to side, and the boat upon the billows in imminent danger of being dashed against her. The men pulled two or three strokes for the shore; but we could venture no further. It was too dark to discern anything but a high wall of inaccessible rock. We turned again to the vessel, which was still riding on the waves uninjured, but evidently drifting closer and closer to the shore.
Nothing seemed now to remain for us but the distressing alternative of abandoning the Glatton with the natives on board, while we put out from the rocks and made an attempt to gain the lee of the island. We took in a keg of water, fire-arms and powder, some blankets, and a few articles of clothing: and Edward, the master of the craft, whom we had left on board, leaped into the boat, by seizing the moment when she rose to the vessel. My heart sank within me as we pushed off; not from anxiety as to my own safety, but at the thought of leaving the natives. It appeared, however, the only course to pursue; for had we made them fully aware of our intention, or had we offered to take one or two of them in, they would all have crowded into our limited ark of refuge, and in all human probability we must have perished.
We now pulled out to sea to clear the rocks, and were successful in gaining the lee of the island, where we found ourselves in tolerably smooth water, and thought of lying upon our oars till the morning. But an eddy wind led us to imagine that there was
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THE BOAT SAVED.
a sudden change, and still clinging to a slender hope that the vessel might yet be got off, we tried to return: our mistake was speedily discovered, and we were glad to pull back again with all haste into quiet water. The stars were now brightly shining, and we were somewhat cheered by the sound of the surf as on a pebbly beach, inspiring us with the hope of being able to land; but it was not sufficiently light to make the attempt, as we found ourselves among rocks whenever we neared the shore. We thought it most prudent to stand off and on till dawn of morning. My companions, who, except Edward, were little accustomed in health and security, to talk of a Divine superintending Being, all spoke of Providence as their only trust. Alas, how apt are we thus to speak in the hour of peril, and, when the danger has passed, God and his providence are wholly forgotten. Happy they who are taught so to "seek the kingdom of God and his righteousness," that in the day of their last extremity they have not then to begin their trust in Providence.
To our great joy we discovered, as morning dawned, that we were not deceived in our hopes of landing. We found a secure shelter and a good beach, and soon hauled up the boat, thankful for our preservation; but still in painful ignorance as to the fate of the vessel. The island on which we landed is the southernmost and largest of the groupe of rocky islands called "the Aldermen," lying off Mercury Bay, about fifteen miles from the nearest part of the coast. Except at our landing place, the island appeared to be nothing but huge perpendicular rock, of
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THE GLATTON ON SHORE.
two hundred feet or more in height; but at the spot to which we had been providentially directed, --the only part of the island into which we could have put with safety, --the surface of the rock was covered with a portion of soil, producing, on the steep slope, native grass, samphire, &c, and a few scattered dwarfish trees, with one small clump, near which we took up our quarters. The remains of two huts, and abundance of wild cabbage growing near the beach, indicated that natives had sojourned here, probably when out on a fishing expedition. 1
Immediately after our landing, my companions set off in different directions over the rock, to attempt a passage to the side of the island where the vessel lay; but frightfully precipitous rocks intervened, and two of them returned without hope of success. I was making the attempt along the coast when I fell in with Edward, returning from another direction. Proceeding on together we were soon brought to a stand, by high bluff rock, against which the waves were constantly dashing. To go further along the beach was impossible, and the perilous ascent I dared not venture; but Edward succeeded in gaining the summit: and thence he could discern the Glatton, high and dry upon her side, and the lads, who had got on shore a number of things from the vessel, all safe. To reach them was impracticable; but signs were made and returned; and afterwards, two of the lads managed to clamber over to us, bringing a few articles
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PAUKENA'S FAITHFULNESS. --THE TANEWA.
with them. Thus our minds were relieved as to their preservation; and, it was highly gratifying, under such circumstances, to see them rise above their common selfishness; thinking of us, and making an effort to aid us, though, but the night before, we had unavoidably sought our safety in deserting them. I afterwards, found, too, that Paukena had proved a most valuable and faithful servant; having taken special care, in the very first instance, to get ashore everything that belonged to his master; and when one or two of the new hands showed symptoms of a mutinous spirit, which made our sailors very jealous of them, Paukena's influence, backed by that of the Missionary, at once quelled it.
Among other things, the lads brought us a flying fish, full twenty inches long, which afforded an excellent breakfast. This fish the natives call Tanewa, (the name of the god of seas and rivers); and they say that when a flying fish comes on board their canoes they are sure to be upset or destroyed. As the one they brought had been thrown on board the previous night by the waves, they of course attributed our misfortune to Tanewa's visit.
As there was too much sea on, to attempt a passage to the main in our small boat, we knew not how long we might be detained on the island. We had, however, in the pigs and potatoes saved from the wreck, a prospect of abundance of provision even for a month or two's stay: but in vain we looked for any adequate supply of fresh water. The natives informed us that a very small quantity could be procured where they were, by digging at the foot of the rock; and one of
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the seamen discovered a place where, by patiently ladling with a spoon for an hour, he obtained about half a pint. I made search, as far as possible, in each direction along the coast, but could see no signs of a single spring. Our little keg proved a great blessing. The two lads would not remain with us for the night, but preferred returning to their comrades; although on so circumscribed a beach of pebbles and rocks, that if a gale of wind had blown to raise a high sea, they could scarcely have escaped from being all swept away.
Round to the N.E., between the large island and the next of the groupe, a cluster or range of smaller pointed rocks formed as wild a scene as imagination could well picture. Had the vessel struck in that direction there would have been no escaping; as the island itself, on that side, presented nothing but inaccessible perpendicular rock. One of the rocks had been perforated, by the washing of the sea, into a complete archway. Through another narrow perforation the sea was dashing into a rocky cavern. And breakers ran furiously among the lesser rocks along the whole space between the islands.
Perforated rocks are common on the coast of New Zealand. One of the Mercury Isles is a huge rock, having an arched passage through it of considerable height. At Cape Brett, which forms the southern head of the Bay of Islands, is another detached rock with an arch, through which, in calm weather, canoes, and even boats, may pass. And a few miles out to sea, off the northern part of the west coast, there is another rocky island, remarkable for a similar perforation.
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SHELL-FISH AND REPTILES.
The rocks of the Aldermen would have furnished us with perriwinkles, limpets, and crabs; but in no great abundance. I have never seen large crabs on the coast of New Zealand; but in some places crayfish are plentiful, and good rock oysters are to be obtained. In Rotorua Lake, a small fresh water cray-fish abounds.
A vast number of diminutive lizards were gliding among the dry sea-weed; and, near our sleeping place, we caught two of the guana kind, one of them measuring about fourteen inches. In every part of New Zealand that I have visited lizards are numerous. There are several varieties of small green lizard; and, by native account, many of the insular rocks abound with guanas. The island Karewa, off Tauranga, is said to swarm with them. Although perfectly harmless, the lizard is held in great abhorrence by the New Zealanders, who say it is the form or resemblance of Wiro, the evil Spirit. Snakes, and poisonous reptiles, except the scolopendra, or centipede, are not known. Spiders are exceedingly numerous, and there is one species, called katipo, the bite of which is poisonous: its body is black, globular, and shining, with black, hairless legs; and it is generally found in sandy places near the sea coast. If you happen to pitch your tent where young katipos are swarming, their bite is dreadfully tormenting.
We closed the evening by bending the knee together in thankfulness and supplication; and, having directed my thoughts, and the thoughts of my companions to those delightful words of the Apostle, -- "We know that if our earthly house of this taber-
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LEAVING THE ALDERMEN.
nacle were dissolved, we have a building of God, a house not made with hands, eternal, in the heavens," 2 I enjoyed, under the one little clump of trees, a comfortable rest.
In the first of the morning there was still too much wind and sea to attempt a passage to the main. But a little before noon we managed to get round to the wreck: the lads all safe and well, and heartily glad to see us. The vessel had gone completely to pieces, and all that remained were spars, planks, rigging, &c. jammed in among the rocks, or entangled among the sea-weed which had been thrown up with and upon them. A small boat-sail being rigged out of canvass saved from the wreck, we at length pushed off from the Aldermen, about one o'clock, P.M. In taking leave of the lads, it was no easy matter at first, to satisfy them that we would endeavour to procure a large boat, and that one or other of us would return for them. They evinced great fears lest the smoke of their fire should be seen from the shore, and attract the notice of hostile tribes; for the lawless licence of New Zealand wreckers, extends, if they feel so disposed, to the killing, cooking, and eating, of the poor unhappy shipwrecked.
With a pretty quiet sea, and the wind favouring us, we reached Mercury Bay in five hours and a half, and it being then dusk, and the tide against us, we put into a small cove just within the heads of the Bay, to wait the turn of tide. Some Pohutukawa trees afforded us a partial shelter, and we snatched
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GROUNDLESS FEARS. --RETURN TO WRECK.
a broken rest; for my companions were so alarmed at the probability of natives coming upon us, that it was necessary to keep watch. In time of peace, to startle at the trace of a footmark, or to fancy all enemy in every rustling of the trees, was altogether a new thing to me; and I could not but mark with thankfulness the powerful influence of known Missionary character upon the minds of the people generally. Hitherto I had been preserved, not only from dangers, but even from apprehensions; while my trading companions were no sooner thrown into an exposed situation than they began to tremble for their lives. Their fears however, were perfectly groundless; not a single native came near us; and at a quarter past one, A.M. we again took to our boat. In three hours we were off the settlement of a respectable European merchant at Witiangi; and, at day-break, we went ashore, and were introduced to Mr. ------, whose brother I had known.
With prompt kindness a large boat was ordered to
be got ready, and at one P.M,. Mr. ------, with myself and wreck-mates, a European in charge, and a couple of natives, set sail in an excellent sea-boat, with a delightful fresh breeze, and in four hours we reached the southernmost Alderman, and were hailed with delight by the natives; but it was too late in the day to attempt clearing the wreck. Some snappers which the lads had caught furnished us with a hearty supper, and some boards from the wreck, spread upon the rocks, supplied a sleeping floor; on which, with the sky for our canopy, we managed to sleep as soundly as if on a curtained feather-bed.
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Our first work in the morning was to take round sixteen of the pigs to our former landing place, where they might pick up a scanty living, and find room to run about till they could be fetched away. Then returning to the wreck, all were hard at work, cutting away blocks and iron-work from the rigging, and stowing the potatoes, four of the pigs, and other things, in the boat. By dusk we were all at Witianga; lives and property safe. We were just placed in the position described by the Psalmist: --"Then they cry unto the Lord in their trouble, and he bringeth them out of their distresses;" and we might well say, "Oh that men would praise the Lord for his goodness, and for his wonderful works to the children of men." 3
Mercury Bay is an excellent harbour: the entrance wide, and without obstruction: and having several well sheltered bays, with good anchorage. Mr. ------' s wharf and warehouse were in a most eligible situation, in a secure little cove at the mouth of the Witianga river. The forms of some of the rocks round the cove were most grotesque. Free-stone had been procured from some of them, for substantially forming the wharf; which was really a creditable piece of native workmanship. A small vessel was on the stocks, in European hands, nearly completed, and a saw-mill was erecting.
Mr. ------'s was, at that time, the principal European establishment in that part of the Island, which forms the separating line between the Frith of Thames
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and the ocean. Crossing over to the Thames side, in Coromandel Harbour, you would find several white settlers located; but of the Northern part of New Zealand, the Bay of Islands was undoubtedly the principal resort of immigrant settlers, before the arrival of Capt. Hobson; and there were many scattered about the Hokianga district. Of the increase of white population it may be interesting to record, that in the beginning of 1833 there were, altogether, not more than from twenty to thirty white persons living at the Bay of Islands, exclusive of the Missionaries. About forty persons, supposed to be runaway convicts and sailors, were living at one of the pas before the arrival of the British Resident; but, on his coming, they had mostly disappeared. There were then only two or three boarded houses all round the Bay, besides those occupied by the Missionaries. In 1836, it was estimated that there was a fixed white population of more than five hundred known to be in New Zealand; besides a changing population of from one to two hundred, --runaway convicts, sailors, and others; --and, on a very moderate estimation, one hundred more, not distinctly known, making the probable white population of that year to be seven or eight hundred persons. The increase, from that period, was so rapid, particularly in the Bay of Islands, that long before the colonization of the country the number must have been more than doubled. 4
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CROSSING TO COROMANDEL HARBOUR.
As there was no prospect of the arrival of a vessel in which I could secure a passage to the Bay of Islands, I took my leave, on the 13th of March, of Mr. ------, who had received, entertained, and dismissed a stranger, as though he had been a friend or brother. Edward and one of the seamen accompanied us to Coromandel Harbour. We crossed the river to an extensive flat, comprising several hundreds of acres; then passing over a small stream, our road lay along the ordinary complement of New Zealand hills, till we entered an indifferently cleared wood. A long trudge through the wood--more open hills--two or three short swamps--hills again--and a deep muddy creek or two, brought us to mud-growing mangroves, and to the treat of a three miles' walk barefoot, either up to the ankles in slimy mud, or galling the feet by treading on stubby wiwi. Weariness and sunset induced us to bivouac by the side of a rivulet; and there being no wood near for tent poles, we slept in the moonshine, and found our blankets, in the morning, soaked with heavy dew.
The next day gave us another steep and long pull up the hills, and a still steeper climb over a mountain-
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NATIVE LETTER WRITING.
ous and wooded range. About one o'clock, p. m. we came up to some saw-pits belonging to one of the Coromandel Harbour settlers, whom we found on the spot, with other white men and a few natives.
The natives were principally from Kaweranga. On learning that I was a Missionary, they inquired for books, and completely teazed me for instruction. One of them planed some pieces of board for me to write lessons on, and they were highly delighted with what I wrote. Their most urgent request was for a form of prayer and thanksgiving before and after meat; but I discovered, from the manner of their asking, that their own superstitious notions mainly prompted the request; for they called prayer before a meal, "He wakatapu kai," or the making of food sacred: and the thanksgiving afterwards, "He wakanoa kai," or the setting of consecrated food free from the tapu.
The New Zealanders who learn to write are very fond of exercising their newly acquired power. Paper, slates, pieces of board, and korari leaves, are all, in turn, put in requisition to convey their thoughts one to another. Their love-letters are handed along the line of conveyance for public inspection. The substance of them commonly is, "I am agreeable to you, do you be agreeable to me," with a few How do you dos, and etceteras of no importance. To see the letters sometimes received by the Missionaries you would imagine the people to have a touch of cacoethes scribendi. In their religious letters, more ought usually to be set down to itching fingers and shrewd heads than to the utterance of renewed hearts. The mere writing of good things is no more a test of cha-
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NATIVE LETTER WRITING.
racter in New Zealand than in any other country; for men may write prettily and live scandalously at the same time.
There can be no doubt that too high an estimate has been formed of the spiritual progress of the people by those who have read their published letters. Yet there have been and are natives, whose spirit and conduct seem perfectly to accord with the productions of their pen. One such I knew in the neighbourhood of the Waimate. He was the principal chief of Mawe: his original name was Ripi; but on his reception into Church fellowship, he had been named Paratene, (Broughton,) after a worthy friend of the New Zealand Mission residing in England. As Paratene had received communications from his unknown English friend, he was anxious to send him a letter; and not being able to write, beyond just the signing of his name, and knowing that I corresponded with Mr. Broughton, he came to me and dictated the following epistle; which I took down from his lips without suggesting or altering anything, and afterwards literally translated to send home.
September 30, 1837.
My Father Broughton,
How do you do. Great is my love for you. Here am I, praying to God for you, for us. My prayer is to God, and my thanksgiving, for his life given to the world, for his peace. My friend Broughton, how do you do. I pray to God to wipe out my sins with the blood of Christ, as a hidden washing and spiritual work within my heart. For that purpose he has given the Holy Spirit to enlighten my heart. My heart is broken before God for my being saved
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by him, in the days that death and evil made their appearance in my heart. When I pray to God my heart is light and glad, and will not be dark. From the grace of God also is the gladness of my heart. I have continually given thanks for his grace since the bringing down of my body by sickness. Sickness and all evil will not end with me: therefore I strive continually in prayer for the evil which strives with me, that it may be wiped away by the blood of Christ, as a secret wiping away. That blood can cleanse from the evils of the heart. Although the evil is great within my heart, I pray continually to God, as a remembrancer to my heart. I am thinking on the words of Christ: on his sayings also which are spoken by his disciples, as a pattern to my heart. I am praying to God for all men, -- for the ignorant, and for the weak. This is my prayer to God for the wicked people of this Island of New Zealand. At my place at Mawe, some pray, some are listless, some are sleeping, some are quarrelling, some are deaf, and will not listen to the words of God. On this account it is that many sicknesses have come upon our bodies: we do not listen, to go to God as his children, as soldiers for Christ. Sir, Mr. Broughton, here is my wife, Mary Ann, lying ill, and my children. Will they, or will they not, get well? And all my people are ill: the illness is great. Yet God is gracious. It is not remembered that the grace of God is given to the world that all men may live. My heart is dark for the evil of my place. Yet God is gracious to us; to the wicked people, to the hard hearted people, who have no strength to believe in Christ. My desire after God will remain until the day when my body falls: then will my prayer to God end for the evils which are continually making their appearance in my heart, for the listlessness and distractions of this world, which destroy the words of God. Still there is no fruit within my heart, which is pressed down by the evil.
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The evil is continually making its appearance. My heart is glad when man speaks evil of me. There are many unbelieving men in this place. Pray to God for that unbelieving people; that their hearts may he turned, that they may be made new, that they may be newly married with one heart, and with one thought. At last I am writing to you. I am continually lying down through illness. The years of my sickness, and of the grace of God towards me, are exactly equal, up to the day of my writing this letter. Sir, how do you do, my loving father! I have not loved you, you have loved me. Yet I must give my love to God for us two, for all the people of the world. How do you do? I do love you, my kind father. In heaven is the most gracious Father for us: thence are blessings and life given to us, saving us from this evil world. How do you do? Sir, Mr. Broughton, not one of our chiefs is dead; perhaps this is the sickness which will kill them. That is all my saying to you, and my love to you, and to God also, who has saved me. That is all. How do you do?
From your friend,
The sentiments expressed in this letter will bear a Scriptural examination, and will serve to shew the nature of the instructions imparted by the Waimate Missionaries. To Mr. Davis, Paratene principally looked up as his instructor. When I first visited the Waimate in 1835, I was often at Mawe, and was much pleased both with the place and the people; but more particularly with Paratene. My impression then was, that he was a simple-minded and devoted Christian; manifesting even an excess of indifference as to temporal advancement. He was living in a hut no better than an English pig-sty, having given up
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his better dwelling for native prayer meetings. At chapel, when a Missionary was conducting the service, he used to keep the people under discipline; standing himself by the door the whole time, to prevent their passing in and out, and overlooking the congregation for the preservation of order. His addresses to the people, though displaying much ignorance, were animated and full of feeling.
At the beginning of 1835 he had been exceedingly ill, and, in the expectation of death, was very earnest in giving good counsel to his relatives. Notwithstanding his regard for them, they were leaving him, according to custom, to sink for want of nourishment; no one taking the trouble to give him even the tea, sugar, and flour sent by the Missionaries. The Rev. W. Williams paid him much attention, both in ministerial and medical capacity, and relates of him at that time, "We found him much reduced for want of food, though his complaint was not of a nature to threaten serious consequences. We persuaded him to take some food which we had brought with us; and recommended his removal to Waimate in the morning. He is happy in mind, and requested all his people to be present while we had prayer with him." 5 From this attack he had recovered before I saw him.
In 1837, as will be seen by the letter, the Mawe people were suffering from sickness. An epidemic of a serious nature was laying many of them aside; but Paratene at that time escaped, and his wife recovered.
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In the following year they were again visited by a most frightful epidemic, of an erysipelatous character, by which many were carried off, and among them our friend Paratene. 6 As I was then residing at the Waimate I had an opportunity of seeing him. Externally there was nothing about him calculated to excite admiration, --nothing which could have inspired even the pen of a Legh Richmond to clothe delightful facts of Christian experience in the attractive garb of the beautiful and romantic. Paratene possessed advantages above many of his countrymen; yet he was, in style of living, house, family and ordinary habits, scarcely less a native than formerly, sinful practices excepted. He had received many presents, sent from his English namesake, with a
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view to make him comfortable; but in one way or other these were disposed of without answering the desired end. He had a horse of his own, which he used to ride; he cultivated his own land; and had the means in his power of acquiring a respectable property. If the prevalent evil among the people was covetousness, Paratene's fault was of a nature precisely the reverse; for he really was too indifferent as to obtaining the means of raising himself in the scale of society.
For a day or two previous to his death he was lying in an almost senseless state, but on the last day he rallied. When I saw him, the evening before the day of his death, he was lying on the ground, in a dark comfortless hovel, wrapped in a filthy blanket, with scarcely one solitary token of advance towards civilization. His face was so disfigured by the effects of the disease that I scarcely knew him; but he was perfectly sensible, and his last hours were spent ia warning those about him to beware of hypocrisy, to be stedfast in prayer, to look well to their hearts, &c. When he was gone, one of his people said to me, "We have lost a man who used to keep the bit in our mouths:" and they certainly did lose in him a father and a guide. To Paratene himself, we have every reason to believe, the change was from a state of wretchedness and conflict to the enjoyment of eternal rest.
To return to, and conclude my journey; I reached Coromandel Harbour the same evening: and finding there one of the small coasting craft, engaged a passage to the Bay of Islands. The district around the
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harbour is timbered, and has some kauri. It was on the evening of the 16th of March we put out to sea; and, with light breezes, slipping quickly through the smooth water, we anchored on the 18th, before daylight, in the Bay of Islands; where, procuring a boat to take me over to Paihia, I was kindly furnished with a horse to carry me forward to the Waimate. The reader, wearied with prosy narration, will probably rejoice to have arrived there too. But if any further inquiry be made concerning the country, character, and habits of the New Zealanders, the writer's residence at Tauranga, --a protracted war which broke out during that residence, --and a subsequent visit to the Reinga, the exeunt-place of departed spirits, --will furnish matter of interest for a future communication.
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