1814-1853 - The Missionary Register [Sections relating to New Zealand.] - 1816 - Proceedings of the Rev. S. Marsden, p 500-525

Monday, Dec. 26, 1814. ---As there was no timber at Ranghee-Hoo fit for erecting the necessary buildings for the Settlement, I determined to take the Active to the Timber District, which I understood was about twenty miles distant, on the opposite side of the harbour, on a fresh-water river; as this would save considerable expense, and supply what was wanted at once. I therefore ordered all the iron, and various other articles, to be landed, and to be given in charge of Duaterra. The poultry were also sent on shore. The Sawyers and Smiths, with young Mr. Hansen, left the Active likewise. I directed them, with the assistance of the Natives, to build a hut, sixty feet long, and sixteen feet wide; and to thatch it, for the reception of the Settlers and their families. When we returned from the Timber District, the Natives seemed very willing to assist us as much as they could.

I found, now, that I should be much distressed for axes and other articles of trade; as the presents which I had made at the North Cape, and along the coast, had very much reduced my stock. We had also omitted to bring coals with us from Port Jackson; which was a loss I hardly knew how to remedy, as nothing could be done, nor provisions purchased from the Natives, without axes and carpenters' tools. I had no alternative, but to erect a smith's shop, and burn charcoal as soon as possible; in order that the Smith might get to work, and make such axes, &c. as the Natives wanted. I consequently desired that some of the Natives, with the smith, should be employed in burning charcoal, and erecting a shop, till the Active returned.

Tuesday, Dec. 27. -- Having given such directions as I deemed necessary, on Tuesday we weighed anchor, and made sail for the Timber District; taking with us all the Settlers and their Families.

This district belonged to another Chief, named Terra, an old man, apparently seventy years of age. Terra is the Head Chief on the south side, and a man of considerable influence. I judged it prudent to wait on him, to obtain his permission to cut down what timber we wanted. Accordingly, when we came opposite his village, I went, accompanied by Messrs. Nicholas, Kendall, and King, to visit him, and took with me a young man about seventeen years of age, who was a relation of the Chief's, and who had been almost nine years from New Zealand, the latter part of which period he had lived with me in Parramatta. He had also lived several years with a Mr. Drummond at Norfolk Island, who had been exceedingly kind to him. When we landed, I found Terra sitting on the beach, with some of his Chiefs and people. He received us very cordially, and wept much, and particularly at the young man's return, as did many more; and some wept aloud. I presented him with an axe, an adze, and two plane-irons, with several other trifles. He said he did not want any present from me, only my company; as he had heard so often of me, from his people and others. I told him I waited on him to beg his permission to cut some timber in his district, for building the Houses of the Europeans at Ranghee-Hoo. He expressed a strong desire that they would come and reside with him. I pointed out to him, that they could not come at present, but must settle with Duaterra, in consequence of our long acquaintance with him: but that, in time, some Europeans should come to live with him. He gave his consent for us to have what timber we wanted. He informed me that the wheat, which had been given to him, when the Active was there before, was growing. I went to see it, and found it almost ripe.

As the Active had gone on, and I was told we were several miles from

the place where we could anchor, and night coming on, I wished to take my leave; but the old Chief would not consent to it, till we had taken some refreshment. He ordered his cooks to dress some sweet potatoes, as soon as possible. These are esteemed by them as their choicest food. In a short time, a basket of them was brought ready roasted, and placed before us. The Chief sat by us, with his wives, and a number of men, women, and children. He would not eat with us, nor permit any of his people; and when we parted from him, he ordered two baskets of sweet potatoes to be put into the boat, for our use. I invited him to come on board the Active, which he promised to do; and we took our leave, much gratified with the attention of this Chief and his people.

Wednesday, Dec. 28, 1814. --This morning we were visited by great numbers of Natives, from different districts. I contracted with some of the subordinate Chiefs for a cargo of timber. The Active lay about twelve miles from the fresh-water river, where the pines grew; and, from there not being sufficient water to bring her nearer, I went up, accompanied by Messrs. Nicholas and Hall, to see the pines; and found a considerable village on the banks of the river, which they call Cowa-Cowa. When our arrival was known, we were soon surrounded by numbers of the Natives, who vied with one another in their attentions. None of us were under the smallest apprehensions of danger, any more than if among Europeans. In about ten days we had got our cargo, and were ready to return to Ranghee-Hoo.

During the time the Natives were getting the timber, I and Mr. Nicholas visited different places, for several miles round; and passed one night with an old Chief, who gave us an account of Captain Cook, when in the Bay of Islands. He was then a young man. He shewed us where they pitched their tents, washed their clothes, watered their ships, and cut their wood; and related several occurrences that happened while Captain Cook remained there.

Jan. 6, 1815. --Our cargo being completed, we weighed anchor, and sailed from Cowa-Cowa for Ranghee-Hoo. When we arrived, the hut which I had directed to be built was almost finished. It was my intention, as soon as the Settlers and their baggage were all safely landed, to sail either for Whangorooa or the River Thames, as the wind at the time might permit; as several of the Natives of Whangorooa had visited the Active since peace was established between them and the people of the Bay of Islands.

Monday, Jan. 9. --As the hut would not be ready for the reception of the Settlers for four or five days, I agreed with Shunghee to visit one of his villages in the interior, about thirty-five miles from Ranghee-Hoo. Mr. Nicholas volunteered to accompany me. Early this morning, Shunghee, Duaterra, his wife, and several Chiefs, came off to the Active in a war-canoe, in which we were to get up one of the western branches of the harbour; from the heads of which we were to walk to a place called Wymattee, where the village is built.

After breakfast, we left the Active, and went on board the canoe, which was very large and commodious. Sixteen persons could row on each side. We could either sit or lie down, at pleasure. These canoes go very quick through the water, and afford the most pleasant conveyance for passengers. Some of them are eighty or ninety feet in length. A smaller canoe attended us, with some of the common servants of Shunghee.

About eleven o'clock we reached the head of the cove, which he estimated to be about fifteen miles from the Active. Here we landed, in a potatoe-ground belonging to Shunghee's brother, named Kangorooa; where we were to take some refreshment, before we proceeded on our journey. Duaterra and his wife had already gone to the farms. The servants were all busy; some digging potatoes, others making lines to roast them.

Hearing the sound of a very heavy fall of water at a little distance, I went to examine it, while the potatoes were roasting; and found the fresh-water river falling on a bed of rocks, which ran from bank to bank. I estimated

the fall to be about nine feet perpendicular, with plenty of water for turning mills of every kind. A regular bed of solid rock ran directly across the salt-water cove, and formed a dam similar to many of the artificial dams in England. The water seemed to be supplied from regular springs; as there were no marks on the banks, as in New South Wales, from heavy rains. The land on both sides of this river appeared very good.

After taking some refreshment, about one o'clock we set forward for Wymattee. For the first three or four miles, we passed through a rich and generally level country. The land was free from timber, and might easily be ploughed. It appeared tome to be good strong wheat-land, and was covered with fern. For the next six miles, the land was of various qualities; some exceeding good, some stony, some swampy, and some of a gravelly nature. The whole of this track of country, taken collectively, would form a good agricultural settlement. It is watered by several fine streams, which seldom ran through it more than a mile apart; and were skirted, in various places, with lofty pines and other timber.

When we had walked near ten miles, we entered a very fine wood, in which there were some of the largest pines that I had seen. We measured one, which was more than thirty feet in girth, and probably not less than 100 feet in height, without a branch. It appeared to be nearly the same thickness at the top as at the bottom,

While passing through this wood, we met with a Chief's Wife, who was overjoyed to see us. Her husband's name was Tarria, a very fine handsome man. He had been on board the Active a few days before; when he told me, that, some time back, a boat's crew belonging to a Whaler had entered his potatoe-grounds in the Bay of Islands, to steal his potatoes; and that he had set his father and some more of his people to watch them, when the Europeans shot his father dead, with one man and one woman. He afterward watched them himself, and killed three Europeans. I understood that the Europeans belonged to a Whaler, called the New Zealander.

Shortly after meeting Tarria's wife, we came to his village, situated on the banks of a fine run of fresh water, and much rich land about it. We inquired how many wives he had, and were told ten. Tarria was from home, but his wives pressed us much to have some refreshment with them. There were a number of servants, both men and women. We consented to their wishes; and Shunghee having shot a wild duck, we had it dressed immediately, while Tarria's servants prepared abundance of potatoes for the whole party. We staid in this village about two hours. They had a number of fine hogs; but no other animals, excepting dogs.

The New Zealanders are a very cheerful people. We were here entertained with a dance and song; and they were very merry all the time we were with them.

We took our leave of them a little before the sun went down, and proceeding on our journey, arrived at Shunghee's village just before dark. We were received with the loudest acclamations by his people, a part of whom wept for joy.

This village contains about 200 houses. It is situated on the summit of an almost inaccessible hill; and is strongly fortified, both by nature and art. Three very deep trenches have been cut round the sides of the hill, one above another; and each trench fenced round with whole or split trees, from twelve to twenty feet high. We entered this extraordinary fortification through a narrow gateway, when Shunghee shewed us how he defended his place in time of war. He had one small secret cover, where he could lie concealed, and fire upon the enemy. Every little hut is fenced round, in this inclosure. Some of the store houses, for the reception of their spears or provisions, are about thirty feet long and twenty wide, and well built. The roofs are thatched; and some of the eaves extend three feet; over the sides, in order to carry off the water and keep the buildings dry. In the centre of the fortification, on

the very summit of the hill, a stage is erected on a single pillar, about six feet long and three broad, hewn out of a solid tree, and elevated about six feet from the ground. Upon this the Chief sits, either for pleasure or business, just as occasions require his consulting with his people. It commands a most extensive view of the surrounding country, in all directions. Near the stage is a little hut, about four feet from the ground, three feet long, and two wide, with a small image placed on the left side of the door, which does not exceed one foot in height. A seat is placed in front, on which the Chief's Lady sits, when she eats; her provisions being deposited in this little building.

About nine o'clock, we were informed that our room was ready, where we were to sleep. Some clean mats had been spread upon the floor, for us to lie upon. We wrapped ourselves up in our great coats, and lay down for the night. A number of the Natives lay in different situations; some under cover, and some in the open air. We had enjoyed a very pleasant day; and our long walks had prepared us for a sound sleep, though not indulged with a feather-bed.

Tuesday, Jan. 10, 1315. --Early this morning we rose with an intention of visiting a fresh-water lake, called Morberrie, about five miles distant from the village. We set off, accompanied by Shunghee and several Chiefs, with a number of servants. Our way lay through a wood, composed of various kinds of timber, together with the noble pine. We could not but view these wonderful productions of nature with reverence and astonishment.

In our way to the lake, we passed through some very rich land; and soon arrived at a small village, where Shunghee's people were at work, preparing their ground for planting potatoes. There was a very fine crop, nearly ripe. The land was very dry and rich, and the potatoes mealy. I had never seen finer potatoes, under the best culture.

When we had walked nearly two miles, we came to the lake. It might be about fifteen miles in circumference. We were informed, that it emptied itself into the head of a river, which runs into the sea on the west side of New Zealand, and was about one hour's walk from the lake. The land appeared very good on the north side of it. We amused ourselves about two hours, in viewing this lake, and the neighbouring grounds attached thereto; and then returned to the last village; where we dined off a wild duck and potatoes, with some provisions which we had brought with us. The duck, Shunghee shot at the lake. After this, we returned to the fortification, where we slept that night.

Shunghee's people here appeared very industrious. They rose at the dawn of day, both men and women. Some were busy making baskets for potatoes; others dressing flax, or making clothing: none remained unemployed.

Shunghee, and his brother Kangorooa, have a large tract of country, similar to one of the Counties in England. It extends from the east to the west side of New Zealand, and is well watered. We saw much land well adapted for cultivation. Shunghee had, near the village where we were, one field, which appeared to me to contain forty acres, all fenced in with rails, and upright stakes tied to them, to keep out the pigs. Much of it was planted with turnips and common sweet potatoes, and was in high cultivation. They suffered no weeds to grow; but, with incredible labour and patience, rooted up every thing likely to injure the growing crop. Their tools of agriculture are principally made of wood; some formed like a spade, and others like a crow-bar, with which they turn over the soil. Axes, hoes, and spades, are much wanted. If these could be obtained, their country would soon put on a different appearance. No labour of man without iron can clear and subdue uncultivated land to any extent. The New Zealanders seem to do as much, in this respect, as the strength and wisdom of man are equal to, in their situation.

Shunghee shewed me some exceeding fine wheat. The seed I had sent

over about seven months before, was nearly ripe. The ear was very full and large. He put a very high value on it, as he appeared to know its worth from his few months' residence at Parramatta. I had also sent over a little English flax-seed. This had been sown, and had come to great perfection, far superior to any I had observed in New South Wales.

Shunghee treated us, in this visit to his village, with all the attention and hospitality that his means afforded. He had killed two hogs, and we had what we wanted of them dressed after our own mode.

Wednesday, Jan. 11, 1815. --Early this morning, we took our leave of this extraordinary fortification, and the people who resided in it; intending to breakfast at the village belonging to Tarria, about five miles distant. Shunghee directed his servants to take along with them two fine hogs, for the use of the vessel.

We arrived at Tarria's village a little after seven o'clock, and were kindly received. The fires were soon lighted, and preparations made for breakfast. Several Natives joined us here, whom we had not seen before. Tarria was not yet returned.

After I and Mr. Nicholas had taken breakfast, I had tea made for the wives of Tarria and Shunghee, who surrounded us. They all refused to take any. Shunghee told me, they were all tabooed, and were prohibited taking any thing but water. I pressed Shunghee to allow one of his wives, who had a little child about one month old, and had followed us from the village, to take a little. He replied, she could not drink any; for if she did, the child would die. I was fully convinced that the refusing to take the tea was founded on some superstitious notions. They were all very fond of bread and sugar. I distributed what remained among them; and Shunghee, with all the other Chiefs, drank the tea.

In about two hours we proceeded toward the cove where we had left the war-canoe on Monday morning. The distance which we had to walk was about ten miles. Our party consisted of twenty-five persons; all Natives of New Zealand, excepting Mr. Nicholas and myself. In about three hours we reached the canoe. Here we stopped and dined, and afterward set off for the Active.

When we had got within seven miles of the vessel, we met Duaterra, in his war-canoe, with a supply of provisions; particularly tea, sugar, and bread. He was apprehensive that we should want these articles, as we had been absent one day longer than was intended when we left the Active.

As Shunghee and Duaterra approached each other, they mutually fired a piece; which is held by them as a mark of respect.

These two war-canoes were nearly matched; and they were determined to try their strength and skill, to see which could go the quickest. Shunghee commanded one, and Duaterra the other. They both ran at so rapid a rate, that it was not possible to tell, at times, which had the advantage. We were much amused with the exact order in which they struck their paddles, and the exercise of their skill. One man in each canoe gave the signal for every stroke, which changed every few seconds: sometimes the strokes were long and slow; at others, short and quick. In a little time we reached the Active.

On Monday morning, previous to leaving the vessel, I had directed that the Settlers and their Families should be landed, with every thing belonging to them, as soon as the building was ready for their reception. On my return, I found Mr. Kendall and his family on shore, and every preparation made for Messrs. Hall and King.

As I intended to sail either for Whangorooa or the River Thames as soon as the Active was cleared, I went on shore, to make the necessary arrangements for my departure.

When I landed, I was informed that a Chief named Werrie, nephew of the late Tippahee, was very much enraged with his wife, and had beat her, in consequence of finding a nail in her possession. The nail had excited Werrie's jealousy, which caused him to demand where she had got it. She told him, that a man belonging to the Active had given it to her, as a

present. Werrie could not be persuaded that any man would give his wife so valuable a present as a nail, unless her conduct had been improper. I was apprehensive that this unpleasant affair might be attended with serious consequences, unless the Chief's mind could be satisfied with respect to the chastity of his wife. I sent for Duaterra, and consulted with him; and it was agreed that the man, who was said to have given the Chief's wife the nail, should be sent for; and if any improper act could be proved against him, he should be confined to the vessel. A public investigation took place on the occasion, in the presence of the Chiefs and many of the inhabitants, on the beach where they dance and exercise. The wife of Werrie and the accused European were brought forward. She defended herself very warmly; but said she could not identify the man who had given her the nail, but that she had received it as a present. After a long examination, she was acquitted by the unanimous voice of the Chiefs, to the satisfaction of all parties. I took this opportunity to assure them, that if any person belonging to the Active either insulted or injured them, they should be punished.

After this business was closed, Mr. and Mrs. Hall were landed, and the remaining stores with them. On the following morning, (Friday, the 13th,) Mr. and Mrs. King also were landed, and the vessel wooded and watered ready for sea.

Friday, Jan. 13, 1815. --About three o'clock, we weighed, and sailed down the harbour. I, had Duaterra and Koro-koro, with twenty-five other New Zealanders, as a guard. These were very fine young men, who could be depended on; many of them sons of the principal Chiefs on both sides of the harbour.

It was my intention, if the wind permitted, first to sail for Whangorooa; as we had been invited by several of the inhabitants, who had come to Ranghee-Hoo since the people were established. At the same time, I thought it prudent to take with me a sufficient number of men, in case any difference should happen, either at Whangorooa, the River Thames, or any other part of the coast where we might touch. When we got to sea, the wind was fair for Whangorooa, toward which harbour we directed our course; but when we came near the Cavalles, the wind suddenly changed, and compelled us to anchor between them and the Main, about five leagues to the southward of Whangorooa: here we remained all night.

Soon after we anchored, three canoes came off from the Cavalles. Some of the people came on board, and remained till after sun-set. When they were gone, the carpenter missed one of his chisels, with which he had been at work. Duaterra was very angry, as we were convinced that some of those Natives had taken it. The boat was immediately manned with Duaterra's men, and proceeded to one of the islands. I requested Duaterra, if he found the thief, not to injure him; but merely to take the chisel. In about an hour they returned, and had not been able to find the thief; having landed on the wrong island, and the night being dark.

Saturday, Jan. 14, 1815. --At break of day, a canoe came off to inform us where the thief was, and wanted assistance to take him; but I thought it more prudent to let the matter drop, as it might detain the vessel; as we had then got up the anchor, intending to sail to Whangorooa with a light breeze which had sprung up. It soon, however, became calm, and obliged us to anchor again. In the afternoon, the wind blew pretty fresh, yet directly against us, and with a prospect of its continuance in that quarter, which would prevent us from entering the harbour of Whangorooa.

I determined, in consequence, to proceed to the River Thames; for which we bore away, immediately the anchor was weighed. The same evening we passed the mouth of the Bay of Islands, with a gentle breeze, which continued all night.

Sunday, Jan. 15. -- This morning we were not far from the Poor Knights; some small islands, which lie a few leagues from the Main.

About ten o'clock, a canoe was observed coming from the Main to the Active. Duaterra ordered all his men under arms; and directed them to lie down on the deck, that they might not be seen when the canoe came, alongside the Active. When the canoe came up, which contained only one old Chief, three men, and one woman, a rope was thrown for them to secure the canoe. The old Chief immediately got on the side of the vessel, with an intention of coming on deck. He had not observed the New Zealanders, who, just as he was coining over the gangway, sprung up: some presented their muskets and others their spears; which so alarmed him, that he fell back into the canoe, and almost upset it; and there he lay for some time, before he recovered from his fright. The New Zealanders made a most dreadful noise at the time. The old Chief afterwards came on board, and was much rejoiced to see so many of his friends; and laughed at the trick that had been practised upon him. After some conversation with him, and having learned who we were, and what we had in view, he took his leave with much satisfaction.

We had not gone far, before another canoe came off from a different part of the coast, with a number of very fine young men in it. They had learned whither we were going; as one of them had visited the Active when she lay at Cowa-cowa, and had requested that I would allow him to accompany us to the River Thames, which request was granted.

By this time we were near a very high part of the coast, called, by Capt. Cook, Bream Head. The Chief of this district, with his son, had visited the Active while we lay at Cowa-cowa. I had made him a present of a

few things; and, among them, a piece of red-and-white India print; and had informed him, that I intended to visit the River Thames. As soon as we had passed Bream Head, the wind blowing very fresh, we observed two canoes labouring hard to reach the vessel. One of them had a signal flying. I desired the Master to bear away for them. When we came up, I found the canoe with the flag contained the son of the above-mentioned Chief, and his colours were the piece of print that I had given to his father. He pressed us much to go on shore, and visit his father; but I told him we could not stop then, as the wind was fair, but would see him on our return. The young man provided us with great abundance of bream, and other fish, which they had in their canoes.

After we had received this liberal supply of fish, we directed our course again toward the River Thames; and, the same evening, passed Point Rodney, one of the heads of the harbour; and saw Cape Colvill, the other head, which is very high land, not much less than twenty leagues distant.

Monday, Jan. 10, 1815. --At daylight, we found ourselves advanced pretty far up the harbour, in which there were several islands, on both the east and west sides. About eleven o'clock we came opposite the residence of the head Chief, Houpah, 1 of whom we had often heard; and, from these accounts, were taught to believe that he was a man much esteemed, as well as feared, and possessed very great power.

In a short time, we observed a war-canoe, full of men, advancing toward the vessel. We hove to. When they came near, they lay upon their paddles, viewed the Active, and informed us that Houpah was in the canoe. I requested him to come on board; which he did, with one of bis sons. Houpah is one of the strongest and best-made men I almost ever beheld. He was greatly surprised to see such a number of New Zealanders on board, and so few Europeans. We had one Chief in the Active, named Timaranghee, who was intimate with Houpah, and who had lived on board the Active for some time. He informed Houpah who we were, and that we had come to the River Thames to see him and his people; and, also, that some Europeans were settled at the Bay of Islands, with a view of instructing the Natives. I made him a few presents; and, in return, he directed two fine mats to be presented to me out of his canoe. He expressed a wish for us to come to anchor near his residence. I told him it was my intention to visit his place, when we returned from the river; and, as the wind was now favourable, we would take advantage of it, and proceed. He directed us what course to steer; and told us we should get the vessel aground, if we kept too much to the right.

After holding conversation with several of the Natives on board, he took his leave, expecting to see us on our return; and we made sail for the mouth of the river. We were then on the west side of the harbour, about four leagues from the river. We had not left Houpah an hour, before it began to blow very hard; and the water was so rough that we could not see the channel. On our coming almost to the head of the harbour, it was high water, and soundings in only three fathoms; which, from the appearance of the gale not abating, induced us to put the vessel about, and get her into deeper water before the tide fell. At this period we were on the east shore,, not far from land. We worked to windward for several hours; and, in the evening, came to anchor in four fathoms water, where we lay all night, during which it rained and blew very hard. Here the harbour is very open. There is no shelter for shipping, which makes it very dangerous.

Tuesday, Jan. 17. -- About four o'clock we weighed anchor, as the gale increased, in order to work to windward if possible, and get under the land; as the place we lay in was not safe, should the vessel be driven from her anchor. The sea was so rough, and the vessel had so much motion, that such of the New Zealanders as had never been on board a ship before at sea, were much alarmed, and imagined they should be lost. About six o'clock in the evening, the gale abated, and we came to anchor again about two miles from the west shore, oppo-

site a large village. Though the inhabitants had seen us all day, yet they durst not venture out in their canoes, on account of the gale.

After we came to anchor, the boat was hoisted out; and ten New Zealanders went on shore, to open a communication with the Natives. Shortly after the boat had reached the beach, we heard a great noise. Duaterra was uneasy, as the boat did not return so soon as was expected. He was afraid that some quarrel had taken place between the inhabitants and the people in the boat; and observed, that if they had injured any of his people, he would immediately declare war against them, with all the force that he could command. About an hour after dark, the people returned in safety; and informed us, that they were very kindly received, and that the noise which we had heard was only their rejoicings. They told us there was plenty of fine hogs and potatoes on shore, both of which we much wanted. As the Active was full of people, this information determined me to visit the village in the morning.

Wednesday, Jan. 18, 1815--Early this morning, a Chief, named Pithi, nephew to Houpah, came off to the Active. He was a very stout handsome man, and quite in the prime, of life; with manners mild, and countenance both pleasing and interesting. I invited him on board. The Chief Timaranghee was well known to Pithi. After the usual salutations, relative to our voyage, and all affairs connected with it, so far as Timaranghee knew, I gave him some biscuit, which they are all fond of; shewed him some wheat in the straw, which had been grown in New Zealand, by Shunghee; and informed him that the biscuit was made from wheat, and gave him a little for seed. He shewed much anxiety to learn the culture of wheat, inquired how many moons it was from sowing to reaping, and expressed his determination to try if he could not grow some at his Settlement. I made him a present of a few articles, and, accompanied by Mr. Nicholas, went on shore, taking twelve New Zealanders with us. The Natives received us with every mark of friendship. The women and children were numerous, but not so the young men. We inquired the reason; and were told, that they were gone to war; and that few, excepting old men, and those who had been taken prisoners, remained in the village.

At this place we found the New Zealanders to sell their prisoners of war, or to keep them to work as slaves.

Several of the Natives of the Bay of Islands had brought with them a little trade; --some a few nails, others small pieces of iron hoops, some a few feathers, and some a few fishing-hooks, and a variety of articles of no value to Europeans, but of much value to themselves. The village was all in motion. They crowded together like a fair, from every quarter. Some of the inhabitants brought mats to sell, and various other articles; so that the whole day exhibited a busy scene; and many things wore bought and sold, in their way.

When the fair was over, the ladies entertained us with several dances and songs. One of them had a fine upper garment, which a Chief from Ranghee-Hoo, who had come with us, wanted to procure for his wife. He had brought a box of feathers, which were neatly dressed. The pithy part of the quill having been all cut off, and only the external part remaining to which the feather was attached, occasioned them to wave gracefully with the smallest breeze, when placed in the hair. The Chief opened the box in presence of the ladies. Many of them wanted these feathers. He, on the other hand, required the fine garment. After placing, very gracefully, two or three feathers in several of the ladies' hair, she who had got this fine garment, struck with their elegant appearance on the heads of those who had them, became extremely impatient for some. The Chief asked her to sell her garment: she stood hesitating for some time: at length he laid a certain number down at her feet: this temptation she could not resist, but instantly threw it off, and delivered it to him for the feathers. The Chief, on our return, presented this precious ornament to his wife. After this, Mr. Nicholas accompa-

nied me to Houpah's fortified village. It was situated on a very high hill, almost a mile from where we then were. It is, in many respects, similar to that already described, belonging to Shunghee. Here we found no men. It was left to the care of some women, and one of Houpah's wives. They told us that the men were gone to war. In this place there were some very fat hogs, and fine plantations of potatoes. The women declined selling the hogs, as they belonged to the men who were gone to the war. Houpah's wife said she had a very large one belonging to herself, which she would make me a present of, if I would stop till it could be got in. At that time it was out feeding. She sent the servants to look for the hog, accompanied by one of our people; but they returned without it. I made her a present of a little print, and some other trifles. She was very anxious that we should wait till the pig could be found; but we could not conveniently stay longer, and therefore left this romantic place. This lady's face, arms, and breast, were all covered with scars, which had lately been cut in consequence of the death of one of Houpah's children. She was a fine tall woman. Houpah does not reside here at present. The pillars of this fortification were much carved with various figures, such as men's heads; and some of them had round caps on their tops, similar to gateways in many parts of England, and were about fourteen feet high.

Shortly after we left Houpah's lady, we received a message from Duaterra, to inform us that he was coming on shore for us. We met the boat, and Duaterra landed. Pithi, the Chief, came at the same time, and wished us to go to the upper end of the village, where he resided. The distance was about two miles along the shore. We agreed to visit him, and ordered the boat to follow us. When we arrived, we met with some of the finest men and women that I had seen at New Zealand. They were well dressed, and received us very cordially. There were three of Houpah's nephews, and their wives, who wore fine mats, fancifully wrought, which came down from their shoulders to their feet, and had a very graceful appearance. I had taken with me a few pieces of print, some plane-irons, nails, &c. of which I made the Chiefs and their wives presents. We had some baskets of potatoes dressed, and several songs and dances, in which the Chiefs and their ladies took an active part, and exerted all their strength and voices to amuse us.

It was now about five o'clock in the evening: we therefore took our leave, and returned on board the Active to dinner. When we had sat down, I was informed that two canoes were coming off, with the Chiefs and their wives. I went on deck to receive them, and invited them to dine with us, which they readily accepted. I told the Chiefs, I wanted some potatoes and hogs for the vessel; but as the men had gone to war, to whom they belonged, I could not purchase any, and therefore it was my intention to sail that evening for the Bay of Islands. They wished us much to stay; and told me to take whatever we wanted on shore, regardless of what the people said. I told them, I could not steal, nor take by force, any thing from the inhabitants: I would purchase what I could, but not take any thing, unless I paid for it. They urged me much to stop and get my supplies, which I would have done if I had been sensible they could be procured without giving offence to the Natives; but I was convinced that they could not, from what I had been told on shore, unless the proprietors had been there.

As soon as we had dined, I desired the Master to prepare for sea immediately. The anchor was quickly weighed, and the vessel under sail. The Chiefs and their wives still remained, unwilling to leave us. They had several dances on deck. At length I got the females into the canoes; but the Chiefs shewed no inclination to part, and began another dance; when the ladies once more leaped out of the canoes, on deck, and joined them in the dance and song, and continued till we had sailed a considerable distance, when they were compelled to leave us or go to sea. When they got into the canoes, the twenty-eight Natives whom I had on board began to sing and dance in their turn, to amuse the Chiefs and their

wives, who lay upon their paddles all the time. As soon as the dance ended upon deck, they began again in their canoes, and continued till we could hear them no more. They then waved their hands, and returned on shore.

One of the Chiefs promised to visit Port Jackson; and go to the Bay of Islands, to see Duaterra, with whom they had exchanged presents.

During our short stay there, these people shewed us the kindest attention, and did all they could to amuse us. I gave several of them some wheat-seed, which I hope will prove advantageous to them; and told them that they would be able to procure axes, and other tools, at Ranghee-Hoo, from the Europeans. They will give any thing for axes.

Duaterra, with his guard of armed men, himself being dressed in European clothing and wearing a sword by his side, when on shore, commanded considerable respect from these Chiefs. I trust our visit to the River Thames will unite in friendship the leading men at Ranghee-Hoo with those in this part of New Zealand; and that if, in future, any European Settlers should be sent to the River Thames, they will be welcomed by the Natives. I felt much gratified with the conduct of the people; but sincerely regretted that I could not see Houpah again. The wind was so strong against us, that we could not make his Settlement, and were compelled to stand out to sea. As my time in New Zealand was limited, I could not wait for a change of wind.

Thursday, January 19, 1815. --This morning we saw Point Rodney, about seven leagues off. There being little wind, we did not reach it till twelve o'clock, when we entered Bream Cove. We sailed into the cove, and ran along shore a little distance from the land. The ground was in general level. A grove of pines appeared behind the banks of the cove. When we had reached near Bream Head, the Natives told us there was a harbour at the head of the cove, into which a fresh-water river ran from the interior. We sailed up to the mouth of this harbour. The Master of the Active said it would be a very safe place for a vessel to lie in, as the situation would completely shelter her from the sea.

We inquired if any vessel had ever been in this harbour. The Natives told us, that the Venus, from Port Jackson, a long while ago, lay there for some time. They further informed us, that the Venus put in at the North Cape, and took two native women from thence, one from the Bay of Islands, one from a small island opposite to Bream Cove, and one from Bream Cove: and that from thence she went to the River Thames, where they got Houpah, and one of his daughters on board, with an intention to take them away also; but when the Venus sailed from the River Thames, Houpah's canoe following her, he watched an opportunity and leaped overboard, and was taken up by his canoe; but that none of the above women have ever since returned. The Venus was a brig belonging to Messrs. Campbell and Co. of Calcutta; and was taken by some convicts, who were on board of her, at Port Dalrymple, and who made off with her. Such are the horrid crimes that Europeans, who bear the Christian Name, commit on the savage nations.

We lay-to all night, in Bream Cove; as I wished to see the Chief who resided near here; and whose son supplied us with fish as we passed, when bound for the River Thames. We now began to fish; and, in a short time, got great abundance of bream and other fish. I expected to see the Chief; but the vessel had not been observed.

Friday, Jan. 20. --At day-light we sailed; and, shortly after passing Bream Head, were seen from the shore, when a canoe put off to the Active. As soon as it came alongside, I observed the Chief was in it, whom I wished to see. He told us that he had not seen the vessel the night before, as he and his men were busy at work in their potatoe-grounds.

Moyhanger, a young man who is mentioned in Mr. Savage's Account of New Zealand, and who accompanied that gentleman to England on his return from New South Wales to Europe, was also along with this Chief. He inquired after many per-

sons whom he had seen in England, and who had been kind to him.

The Chief wished us much to return for one day; and told me he had abundance of hogs and potatoes, and would supply all our wants. I told him I could not detain the vessel, if the wind was fair, but must proceed. I gave him a little wheat for seed, some nails, and a cat, with which they returned on shore, highly pleased: regretting only that I could not stop one day, for him to make me some return. Shortly after they were gone, the wind changed, and continued against us all day.

At six p. if. we were about two leagues from shore. The sea being smooth, and likely for a fine night, I determined to visit the Chief, and had the boat immediately hoisted our Mr. Nicholas accompanied me. We had none but New Zealanders in the boat. The sun was set before we reached the shore.

The Natives soon saw the boat; and one of them stood on a rock, waving a signal, pointing out where we were to land. There is a bar running across the mouth of this harbour, on which the sea breaks with great violence. As we approached, it appeared impossible to us that the boat could pass through the surf. Two canoes came dashing through the waves, as if they bade defiance to the destructive rocks, and the foaming billows that rolled over them with a dreadful noise, to direct us where it would be safe to land. On our boat reaching the shore, a number of Natives rushed through the surf, laid hold of it, and conducted us safe in.

The Chief's residence was on the east side of the harbour; but we were compelled to land on the west, on account of the surf, and crossed the water again in a canoe.

The whole place was surrounded with broken rocks, which resembled more the ruins of old abbeys than any thing else. Some formed very large arches; others deep caverns: some were like old steeples; and others like broken massy columns: in short, they presented the most curious groupe of ruins which I had ever seen formed by time, storms, or seas.

A numerous crowd of men, women, and children came to meet us. The Chief and Moyhanger were overjoyed at our visit. The Chief who had been on board was the General Officer, or one whom the New Zealanders call the fighting man. We found there was another higher in authority than our friend, to whom we were conducted. He was seated on the ground, and a clean mat was placed by him, for me and Mr. Nicholas. The General stood all the time, with a spear in his hand. The Head Chief was a very old man, with a long grey beard, and little hair upon his head. He was an exceedingly pleasant man. Koro-koro had gone with us. He related to the Chief all the wonders that he had seen at Port Jackson, the attention paid to him, the riches of our country, and for what purpose the Active had come to New Zealand. The old Chief laughed much, and made many inquiries, and wanted us to stay till next day. He ordered us some pork, and gave a few baskets of dried fish for the people. We stopped till about eleven o'clock, when we took our leave, having enjoyed a very pleasant evening. They conducted us safely through the surf, and we made for the vessel.

At this time she was out of sight, nor could we even hear the report of the muskets which served as signals; though we observed the flash of the powder, which directing us to the vessel, we got safe on board; when the breeze springing up, we made sail.

Saturday, Jan. 21, 1815. --This morning we had Cape Brett in sight. As we sailed along the coast, we were visited by ten canoes, which brought us plenty of fish. About three o'clock P.M. we anchored in the cove, and found all the Settlement well, and assuming the pleasing appearance of civilization, from the buildings erecting and erected, and from the sawyers, smiths, and others at work.

I had now completed every thing relative to the establishment of the Mission that appeared to me necessary, with regard to the intercourse of the Settlers with the Natives; and had opened a communication nearly 200 miles along the coast, and made the

Chiefs, in all the different districts, acquainted with our object. They all seemed sensible of the benefits which they are likely to derive from Europeans residing among them. A more promising prospect never could present itself for civilizing this quarter of the globe. It requires, however, to be closely followed up.

As considerable expenses had been already incurred in the purchase of the Active, the outfit, naval stores, and seamen's wages, I felt it incumbent on me to do all in my power to find out some mode by which these expenses could in some measure be provided for. I determined to take all the dressed flax that I could procure from the Natives, to Port Jackson, and to fill the vessel with timber. Whether the flax will answer as an article of commerce or not, is not yet fully determined. Timber will answer to a certain amount, but will not defray the whole of the expenses of the vessels. Should flax answer, it is probable they will both nearly accomplish this in time.

The material difficulty I had to contend with, was the means of procuring a cargo; my trade being nearly exhausted, in purchasing provisions, and in presents to the Natives. The New Zealanders will work, if they are paid for it; but not otherwise: and to procure a cargo of timber without their assistance was impossible. Raft-ports were cut in the vessel, and she was got ready for receiving the timber; and, in little more than a week, we sailed to Cowa-cowa, the Timber District. I had very little trade, which caused some delay; the smith not being able to make what was wanted, fast enough. Several Chiefs engaged to supply a given number of spars. They desired me to go with them, and point out such trees as I required to be cut down; which I did: and in little more than a fortnight, we had our cargo on board.

I found them all act with the strictest honesty in their dealings; and some of them trusted me, till the smith made the axes for payment. We had no differences during the whole time that we lay at the river, nor any means of protecting ourselves against such numbers as are in these districts, but were wholly in the power of the Natives. I put no restraint on them; but suffered them to come, at any time, and in any number, to the vessel; Sabbath Days excepted, when we had Divine Service. A number of Chiefs lived constantly on board, and many of their servants.

We had only two trifling thefts committed while the vessel lay in the harbour.

One of the Chiefs detected a common man with about two pounds of iron, and brought him to me. The Chief was in a violent rage with him. I ordered the man to be confined in the hold, till Terra, the Head Chief, came on board. When he arrived, he was informed what the man had done. Terra desired the thief might be brought on deck. On his approaching, he made a blow at him with a billet of wood; and would have put him to death immediately, if I had not interfered to save his life, by getting him out of the Active into a canoe. He ordered him to quit his territory, and to return no more.

I afterward lost two razors. The Chiefs, on my mentioning this circumstance, were much concerned; and told me that they hoped I did not suspect either of them to be guilty of such a crime, as certainly no Chief would steal. They observed, that I had been too indulgent, in allowing their servants to come on board, who could not be trusted. They assured me, that if ever they found out the thief at any distant period, he should suffer death.

They also presented me with a very valuable mat, one of the finest that I had seen, as a compensation for my loss; observing, that, while I remained in their districts, I should not suffer any loss which they could remedy. They were all very much hurt at this theft; and one of them sat on deck two days and nights, and would not come into the cabin to cat, from vexation, and said he was ashamed of such conduct.

Theft and adultery are crimes which they punish with death. On passing up the River Cowa-cowa, I observed, on the summit of a very high hill, a Roman Cross, and inquired of the

Natives what it was for: they replied, to hang thieves upon; whom they first killed, and then hung up till time destroyed their bodies.

During our stay at Cowa-cowa, I had many interesting conversations with the Chiefs, relative to the nature of crimes and punishments; and pointed out to them, that there was no comparison between a man who would steal a potatoe, and another who committed murder, and yet their punishment was the same. They will as soon kill a man for stealing potatoes, as for murder.

A Chief has the power of life and death over his people. They appeared much astonished when I told then that King George had not the power to put any man to death, though a much greater king than any in New Zealand. I explained to them the nature of a British Jury; and told them that no man could be put to death in England, unless twelve gentlemen had examined into the case of a prisoner who was accused of any crime: and if the twelve gentlemen declared him not guilty, King George had no power to put him to death; but if, on the contrary, they pronounced him guilty, even then King George had the authority to pardon him, if it were his Royal Will.

They replied, these laws were very good; and one of them asked what Governor we should send them. I replied, that we had no intention of sending them any, but wished them to govern themselves.

I mentioned some crimes which we punished with death, and others with banishment; and that punishments should be regulated, at all times, by the nature of the offence.

I told them, if a man had two wives in England, though he were a gentleman, he would be banished his country. One of the Chiefs said he was of opinion that it was better only to have one wife; for where there were more, the women always quarrelled. Others said, that their wives made the best overseers, and that they could not get their grounds cultivated but for the industry of their wives; and, for that reason only, they thought more wives than one was good policy. These conversations sometimes passed when the women were present; and they generally were of opinion that a man should have no more than one wife. (Dec. 1816.)

Some of the Chiefs held there were too many Kings in New Zealand; and that if they were fewer, they should have less war, and should live more happily. I told them there was only one King in England: at the same time, there were more gentlemen than in New Zealand; but none of these gentlemen dared to put a man to death, without forfeiting his own life for it; nor declare war, one against another, without King George's sanction. On this account, there were no fightings and murdering one another in England, as there were among them.

I had a young man, a Native of New Zealand, belonging to the vessel, who had lived some years at Port Jackson, a very good interpreter, who generally attended me, to explain any thing which the Natives could not clearly understand. With his assistance, I gained any information that I wished, relative to the islands and inhabitants of New Zealand; and was enabled to communicate to them much useful knowledge, while I was among them; as our conversations generally touched on religion, civil government, agriculture, or commerce. They always shewed an anxiety for information relative to other parts of the globe.

Shortly after our arrival at Cowa-cowa, a Chief, named Weerea, came on board the Active, to request me to visit his Settlement. I promised I would, as soon as I could leave the vessel. This village is situated on the banks of a small fresh-water river, called Wycaddee, about twelve miles from where we lay, at the head of one of the coves. The village takes its name from the river.

Having now completed our cargo, I informed Weerea that I would accompany him, to sec his people. The next morning, his canoe was got ready, and we set off for Wycaddee.

We were joined by another canoe, which had in it a cock and a hen. I was surprised to see these fowls; and, inquiring where they came from, was informed that they belonged to the head Chief, Terra, who had sent them into the country for the following reason. Terra had built a new hut for some sacred purpose, which he had tabooed. He had forbidden the cock from getting upon its roof, but

in vain: no means that he could devise would prevent him; and therefore he had sent them both away, for polluting this consecrated building! These fowls had been given to Terra, when the Active was first at New Zealand. While we lay at Cowa-cowa, Terra and his wife had mentioned this cock and hen, and informed me that the hen had a number of eggs, on which she sat some time: at length, she and the cock broke the shells, and destroyed them all. They told me they went, every day to view the eggs, while the hen was sitting; and desired to know the reason why the fowls destroyed them. I told them, that the hen had tabooed the eggs, and was exceedingly angry with them for touching them; and, on that account, she and the cock, in their rage, destroyed the whole. They were much astonished at hearing this, and had a long conversation on the subject; and made numerous inquiries relative to the rearing of fowls. I told them, they were on no account, in future, to touch the eggs: if they did, the hen would again destroy them. I have no doubt but they will rigidly attend to my advice.

The two canoes went, in company, for about three miles; when we put into a small village on the east side of the harbour, to see some of Weerea's friends. While we were here, it came on to rain very much. After stopping about two hours, during which many baskets of potatoes were dressed, we set off for Wycaddee. The rain fell very heavy. I was soon wet, through both my great coat and other clothing. The wind and tide were against us, and the fresh-water river had risen in consequence of some late heavy rain, so that we made little progress. When we had gone about four miles further, we came to another little village on the west side of the harbour. The Chief came to invite us on shore; but this I declined, as I was as wet as if I had been in the river. The Chief, notwithstanding the heavy rain, waded off to our canoe, as he wished to know what was going on; and Weerea had much news to tell him, which he had learned on board the Active. He pressed us much to take seme refreshment with him, but I was too cold and wet to leave the canoe. When taking his leave, Weerea said to me,

"This Chief is a great King: give him a nail." I complied with his request, and gave him a few nails; and he returned on shore, highly delighted with his present.

We proceeded for Wycaddee: but the higher we got up the river, the stronger the stream ran against us; so that, at length, the men could not stem the current with their paddles, but were compelled to go close in shore, and get out of the canoe, and drag it along; and, with all their exertions, they could not reach the village. A little after dark we landed, in order to walk up, being about one mile from the village, the rain still continuing. We had to walk through some low swampy ground, which was in many places overflowed with water. I followed my guides, sometimes up to my knees in mud, and sometimes in deep water-holes. As the night was dark, we could not see to pick our way. At length, I discovered a light, like the twinkling of a star, appearing and disappearing at short intervals, which was a signal that the village was near. Weerea was a little behind, at this time. I was walking along with one of his officers. Before we entered the village, the officer that was with me called aloud to the inhabitants, and informed them I was coming. Many of these people had visited the Active.

I made for where I had seen the light, in order to get some shelter from the rain; and as soon as I came up to the hut, I crept into it, through a small door about two feet eight inches in height. I found a number of women and children, and a few servants belonging to Weerea. There was about a handful of fire in the centre of the hut, made of a few small sticks, round which the children, all naked, were reposing. Sometimes the little fire blazed tor a moment, and then went out. The hut was more full of smoke than a chimney, as there was no vent for it to escape, but through the small door. This strange groupe of Natives were all rejoiced to see me. I took off the whole of my clothes, being excessively cold and wet. The children ran out to collect some fire-wood. Weerea brought me two clean mats, to wrap myself in, as bed-clothing,

and a log of wood for a pillow. The women and children were busy in recruiting the fire, and drying my clothes. I found the smoke very offensive; but I thought it more prudent to put up with this inconvenience, than undergo the risk of catching cold by sleeping in a hut where there was no fire. Weerea told me he could not remain in the hut, on account of the smoke; and as I would not leave it, he retired into another by himself, and left me with my present company, who entertained me a great part of the night with talking about their Chief and his concerns. The children and women were very kind and attentive, and did all they could to make my situation agreeable.

When they sleep, they lie upon the ground, with little covering, and some of them none. A tree was laid in the centre of the hut, which ran the whole length, being about thirty feet; and the Natives lay on each side of the tree, with their heads reclined upon it. At this time, I had no Europeans with me, nor any others but Weerea's people. My object was to gain as clear a knowledge of the characters of these islanders as possible, while I was in the country; which knowledge could not be acquired, without sacrificing, for a time, the comfort and conveniences of civil life. I was under no apprehensions for my personal safety, as I had never met with the smallest insult from one of them.

About midnight, Weerea came to the hut, and informed me that one of his wives was very ill, and a little child; and that he was afraid she would die; and requested I would pray with her in the morning, which I promised to do. He appeared much concerned about this woman. I had heard a person mourning very much for some time, as if extremely weak, and in great pain; and a young child occasionally. Early in the morning, I rose and visited the poor woman. I found her lying, with a little child about three days old, exposed to the open air, and a few reeds put up, on the side which the rain and wind beat against, for shelter. Here she had been exposed all night, notwithstanding the storm. She looked very ghastly, and as if death was near. I talked to her for some time. She could scarcely speak; but smiled feebly, and seemed pleased with my attention to her. I kneeled down beside her, with Weerea and some of his people, and offered up my supplications to the Father of Mercies in her behalf. She well understood the meaning of prayer, though not my language; as the New Zealanders consider all their afflictions to come from some Superior Being, whom they are much accustomed to address in time of trouble.

The poor woman wanting nourishment, I presented her with a piece of biscuit; when she gave me to understand that she was forbidden to eat any thing but potatoes. I spoke to Weerea, who told me God would be angry if she ate the biscuit. He took it, and, repeating many petitions over it, placed it under her head; and told me the presence of God was now in the biscuit, but his wife must not eat it.

I lamented that the poor woman had been in the open air all night, which was enough to occasion her death; and learned that it was the prevailing custom among the New Zealanders, when a person was sick, to carry them out of their huts, and lay them in the open air, lest the huts should be defiled. For this reason these people neither eat nor drink in their houses, but always in the open air.

The New Zealanders consider their God as an intelligent spirit or shadow. When I inquired of one of them, what God was like, he told me he was "An Immortal Shadow." They suffer much, however, in times of sickness, from these superstitions, in being compelled to be in the open air; and, refuse, sometimes for days, either food or water, under the impression that if either is administered to the sick, they will surely die. I had often, previous to my present visit to Wycaddee, been struck with the weakly and aged appearance of young women who had borne children; and now attribute this to the colds and complaints which they catch during their confinement.

In passing through the village, I saw a little naked child lying on the ground, and a number of people present. A Chief informed me that it was his child, and was two days old. He

pointed out the mother, who was walking about. She very probably would have been lying there to, if she had been sick. The child appeared very well. I mention this as a proof that both women and children, at those times of danger, are exposed to sufferings unknown in civilized society.

A small distance from where Weerea's sick wife was lying, there was a little hut, and a stage erected on it. Weerea took me to it; and told me his father had been slain in battle, and that his body was wrapped up and placed upon the stage, where it would remain till the bones mouldered away. I could not observe any part of the body, as the covering had been drawn up in a round form, and not stretched out, as in the case of our dead. The Chiefs in New Zealand, when they die, are generally placed upon a stage in some sacred grove, several of which I saw. The Natives do not like to visit the place of their departed friends; and have generally some frightful image erected near the spot, to terrify all who approach the repository of their dead. I was much surprised that Weerea had his father so near him, and in the centre of the village.

This village is situated in a rich valley; the land of which is very good, and fit for cultivation. I here observed many noble pines.

Weerea urged me much to send some Europeans to reside at Wycaddee. He pointed out the spot where their houses should be built, on the most fertile banks of the river; and set forth the advantages that they might derive, the richness of the soil for potatoes, and its vicinity to the water. I told him, that, in time, his wishes might be complied with; but we must first see how the inhabitants of New Zealand conducted themselves towards the Europeans at Ranghee-Hoo. If they were treated well, more should be sent.

He wished, then, to accompany me to Port Jackson. I told him the number I had already agreed to take were as many as the Active could hold; but I would give directions for a passage at a future time, should he be inclined to visit me. With this he was satisfied, and said he would come.

I then told him, as the vessel would leave Cowa-cowa that day, I must request him to order me a canoe, that I might return. He replied, he could not suffer me to depart till he had presented me with two or three hogs. He immediately threw off the whole of his clothing, took a dog and a boy to the river, plunged into it with them, and swam across, holding them above water with one hand, and swimming with the other. When he landed, he ran off into the forest like a lion; the boy and dog following: and returned, in a little time, with three hogs, which were put into the canoe, and all was got ready for my return. He made me a present of some mats, at the same time; and told me he would accompany me to the vessel.

When I had got into the canoe, he put in one of his sons, a fine boy about nine years old. I asked him what he was about to do with his boy. He told me he intended to take him to Ranghee-Hoo, to live with Mr. Kendall, in order that he might instruct him. I answered, Mr. Kendall's house was not ready yet, or he should go; but as soon as it was, and Mr. Kendall could accommodate him, I would speak to Mr. Kendall, and was sure he would receive him. With this he was satisfied.

It may not be improper here to notice a conversation which I had with the two Chiefs, Tupee and Timarangha, some time after this, relative to Mr. Kendall's School. He had already begun to teach the Children; and had taken into the School two fine boys, the sons of a common man at Ranghee-Hoo. These Chiefs told me, that it was of no use to teach the children of the common people; that they had no lands nor servants, and could never rise higher in rank than their parents; but that it would be very good to instruct the sons of Chiefs.

From what I could learn, there appears to be no middle class of people in New Zealand; but that they are all either Chiefs, or, in a certain decree, slaves. At the same time, the Chiefs do not give their commands with that

authority, indiscriminately to their people as a body, with which masters do to their servants in civilized society; nor do their dependents feel themselves bound to obey them. It is true, they have the power over any of their people to put them to death for theft; but as the Chiefs have no means of remunerating the services of their dependents, they cannot command them, as a body, to labour in their grounds, &c. In time of war and common danger, they can command them to put themselves under their authority, which they are compelled to do; and the inferior Chiefs are also obliged to attend on their superiors, with their people, in the field of battle. The Chiefs have domestics to dress their provisions, attend them in their canoes, cultivate their lands, or do any other menial services; and all such are wholly under their authority.

I now took my leave of Weerea's people, and returned to the Active, which had got under weigh, but was obliged to anchor again, the tide running so strong that the vessel could not stem it with the light wind that she had.

When I arrived, some of the Chiefs informed me, that the Jefferson Whaler had come in, and was anchored in the cove near Terra's village; and that there had been a serious dispute between the people on board, and the Chief Terra, whom they had threatened to shoot. They further stated, that if any injury happened to Terra, the Jefferson would be cut off, and her people killed; and entreated me to go down, and know the cause of the quarrel. I was much concerned to hear this; and told them, that I would repair on board the Jefferson; and if any injury had befallen Terra, the person who had done it should be brought on board the Active, and taken to Port Jackson, where he would be punished by Governor Macquarrie. I took the largest carpenter's axe we had in the vessel, as a present to Terra, knowing that nothing would be more acceptable to him; and set off in a canoe for his village. I found him at home; and, on presenting the axe, told him what I had heard. He stated, that he had been on board the Jefferson; and that a pistol was pointed at his breast, with a threat to shoot him. I desired him to accompany me, and point out the person who had insulted him. He ordered his canoe, and went, followed by his brother and another Chief. When he arrived on board, he marked out the person that threatened to shoot him, and stated the cause of their differing; but as the matter was at length settled to the satisfaction of the Chief and his friends, it is not necessary to say more, only that it appeared to me that the Europeans were utterly to blame.

I remained on board the Jefferson all night; and in the morning, while walking the quarter-deck in company with the Second Mate, I saw one of the Chiefs in a dreadful rage, and Tupee, Terra's brother, pointing up to the mast-head, at the same time making signs to some of the Natives, as if he wanted them to hang some person up. I immediately went with the Mate, and inquired the cause of the uproar. The Chief who was so angry, pointed to a young man with a sword in his hand, and said he had struck his wife several times with it; and when he forbad him, he made several stabs at him. I urged him to be composed; and told him the man should be punished, if he had done wrong. I then addressed the young man with the sword, who was very insolent when I spoke to him, used extremely bad language to me and his officer, and refused to become reconciled to the Chief, though neither he nor his wife had given the smallest offence. I told the Chief I should represent the young man's conduct to Governor Macquarrie; and that Mr. Kendall, who was appointed by the Governor to hear their complaints against the Europeans, should be sent for; and he would commit them to paper, and I would take them to Port Jackson: which was done. They attended the examination, when the young man was brought before Mr. Kendall as a Magistrate, and were perfectly satisfied with what was done.

I inquired of Tupee why he was pointing at the mast-head, at the time of the disturbance. He said he was recommending to his countrymen

not to injure any man on board, but the man who had struck the Chief and his wife with the sword, and to hang him up at the mast-head.

Masters of vessels should be very particular, and not place a sword in the hands of a young, thoughtless, wicked sailor; and more especially when among savage nations. The Natives then on board and alongside the Jefferson, when this affair took place, could have seized her in a moment. The Natives should be prohibited altogether, with the exception of the Chief of the District, from coming on board; and care should be taken, while they are on board, not to insult any of them.

Previous to this period, I had frequent conversations with the Chiefs relative to the loss of the Boyd; and pointed out to them the injustice of putting to death the innocent with the guilty, as the people of Whangorooa had done in this instance. They readily admitted that the guilty alone ought to suffer: and what pleased me more, was to find that Tupee was strongly impressing on the minds of the Natives the same idea, and directing them not to injure any person on board the Jefferson, but the man who had given the offence.

All differences being now settled, I waited for the arrival of the Active; which soon appeared in sight, and anchored not far from the Jefferson; where we intended to take in our water, and then proceed to the Settlement of Ranghee-Hoo.

While the Active was taking in her cargo at Cowa-cowa, a number of Native Women came on board every day. I told them I would not allow any of them to remain on board at night, unless with their husbands. Every evening the vessel was searched; and if any women without husbands were found, they were sent on shore, sometimes not very well pleased.

During my stay on board the Jefferson, I saw many of my old acquaintances. They laughed, and told me they were not on board the Active now, and that the Jefferson was not tabooed; and that when the evening came on, in that ship, there was no "me auta" literally meaning, there was no command to be off. I replied, I was much displeased with the Master and crew for suffering them to stay all night in the vessel.

The next day, I accompanied Mr. Kendall to Ranghee-Hoo, in the Jefferson's whale-boat.

Saturday, Feb. 20, 1815. -- Having arranged every thing relative to the Settlement, I embarked, accompanied by Mr. Nicholas. This morning we weighed anchor, and made sail.

I had given permission to ten New-Zealanders to accompany me to Port Jackson; eight of whom were Chiefs, or sons of Chiefs, and two servants. They were all embarked on Friday; and their friends assembled from every quarter, to take leave of them. Many Chiefs also came on board, to accompany us down the harbour. This brought on much weeping and lamentation. Mess. Kendall, Hall, and King, were likewise on board. The Chiefs spoke very kindly; and declared, that if Duaterra died, they would protect the Europeans, and none should injure them. Many solicited to go with me to Port Jackson; whom I was obliged to refuse, partly because we had no room, and partly on account of the heavy expense of maintaining them on their passage to and from New Zealand, and while the vessel might lie at Port Jackson. I told them I would, at all times, permit a few to have a passage, but that it must be by turns; which satisfied them.

The Head Chief's wife wept much; and cut her face, arms, and breasts, with shells, till the blood streamed down. She told me she would neither eat nor drink any thing for five days and nights; but would sit down in her hut and sleep--praying for us all the whole time. She is a very intelligent young woman, can speak a little En-

glish, and is very partial to Europeans. Both she and her husband Terra were very urgent for me to send over two or three Europeans to live with them; and it is my intention to send a married couple when the Active returns, if I have favourable accounts from the Settlers, and can meet with suitable persons.

We sailed down the harbour, near the Heads, when the canoes returned with our weeping friends: but we were obliged to come to anchor again till the tide turned; and, while we lay there, were visited by a Chief from the River Thames, who had just arrived. About twelve o'clock we got out, and bore away for the North Cape.

Sunday, Feb. 27, 1815--About twelve o'clock we saw land. I was determined to put in here, and pass a day, according to my promise, if the wind permitted; and, accordingly, desired the Master to steer for the Cape.

Monday, Feb. 28. --During the night the wind had been rather unfavourable; and this morning we were four or five leagues from shore, with the wind off the land. The vessel had passed the north-east point, where I intended to touch; but, as we could not make it, we endeavoured to work to windward, by carrying all the sail; and, about ten o'clock, a canoe put off to the Active from a different part of the shore, where the Chief lived whom I wanted to see. When the Natives came on board, they informed me that the Chief had got a quantity of dressed flax for me; and that Jem, the Otaheitan, was in the country, about four miles off. I desired the principal Native to send his canoe on shore, and a messenger to Jem, to inform him of my arrival; which he immediately did, and continued on board himself, requesting that I would allow him a passage to Port Jackson; but, for want of room, I could not grant his wishes.

Shortly after, another canoe came off; in which I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Nicholas, and the Chief who had arrived on board. We landed at a small village near the beach. The surf was high, and the place at which we landed very rocky. To me it appeared full of danger; but depending on the knowledge and dexterity of the Natives in the management of their canoes, we ventured through the surf, and got safe on shore, only with some sprinkling of the waves. We here found some pretty little cottages, with their gardens in high cultivation, neatly fenced and laid out, and the potatoes, yams, &c. all planted in separate beds, with not a weed to be seen.

In passing through the village, I observed a man's head stuck upon a pole, in the front of a cottage. The Chief stole silently from behind me, took it down, and carried it into the hut. He was not aware that I observed it; and, by his cautious conduct, I concluded that he was desirous I should not. On that account, I took no notice, but passed on.

From this village the messenger had been dispatched to Jem, the Otaheitan; but he had not yet returned. We walked about two miles into the interior, on the path where Jem was expected to pass, attended by a considerable number of Natives. In our way, we saw some beautiful plantations of potatoes and other vegetables. The women appeared as if they were little acquainted with Europeans: most of them kept at a distance for some time, and always fled away when we spoke to them. At length we were hailed by some of the Natives, and informed that Jem had taken another road, and was gone down to the beach. We returned immediately, and made for the sea.

In our way, we met the Chief's son. He was dressed in the India prints which I had given to his father, when on our way to the Bay of Islands. He was an exceeding fine youth. He produced the printed orders of Governor Macquarrie, given by me to his father. They were wrapped up, and covered with great care, in order to keep them clean. He requested I would give him a passage to Port Jackson, to which I consented. He told me his father wished to see me; and was waiting at the head of the Bay, about three miles distant. I set off to visit him; and was met by Jem, the Otaheitan, who told me the flax was ready. At this time it was nearly night, and the wind still blowing fresh from the land, so that the Active could not get up. I was apprehensive

she would be driven to sea; and therefore thought it prudent to get on board as soon as we could. With this view, we returned to the former village.

On our way, we met with two women, leaning on a rock, weeping, and making loud lamentations. I inquired the cause, and learned that their husband was the Chief who had applied for a passage. I told them not to grieve: I would not take him with me, as the vessel was full.

When we arrived at the village, I observed to the Natives, that I wanted a canoe to take us on board. They launched one immediately, and filled her with men. The sea was uncommonly rough, and the Active a considerable distance from shore. I expected we should meet with some difficulty in getting on board; but, as the Natives apprehended no danger, I endeavoured to persuade myself that my fears were groundless; and therefore entered the canoe, which soon passed over the raging surf, and reached the Active in safety. Some of these canoes are eighty feet long; and it is astonishing to see with what skill they manage them in a boisterous sea.

Previous to leaving the shore, I informed Jem that the Active would lie-to all night, if not driven off by the wind; and in the morning, we should stand in for the land, in order that I might see his father-in-law, and get on board the flax that he had prepared.

The wind continuing the same all night, we could not make the land; but were much in the same situation we were in the preceding evening. Jem came off, however, pretty early, in a canoe, with a message from the Chief, requesting me to go on shore. I desired him to return, and to tell the Chief, that the sea was too high, that I was not accustomed to their canoes, and on that account was afraid to venture; and that, if he had any flax to send, the vessel should wait till I heard from him again. At the same time, I sent him a present of some edge-tools, which I had reserved purposely for him. In about three hours, Jem returned with a quantity of potatoes and about, three hundred weight of flax, and a boy whom the Chief wished me to take to Port Jackson; and that Jem also would go with us, and return when the Active came back to New Zealand. I was unwilling to disappoint the wishes of this Chief, who placed such confidence in me in sending his son, that I gave my consent for them both to remain in the vessel; and we immediately made sail, and bore away with a fine breeze for Port Jackson.

Jem told me, that the Chief's eldest son, whom I had seen on shore, was very anxious to come; but his mother would not consent.

I had now twelve Natives, passengers on board, beside the Natives belonging to the vessel.

It was with the most heartfelt satisfaction that I left New Zealand, not having met with the smallest accident, provocation, or insult. I had fully accomplished the object of my voyage, and satisfied myself relative to the true character and disposition of these Heathens. I was entirely persuaded, that there was no real obstruction to their civilization, nor to the introduction of Christianity among them; and that nothing more, in respect of human exertions, was requisite, than common prudence on the part of those who might be engaged in this humane and benevolent undertaking.

Nothing material happened on our passage till the twentieth of March, when we had a very heavy storm of thunder and lightning from the south-west, blowing a very hard gale, which compelled us to lie-to for almost two days and nights. At this time we were not far from the coast of New Holland. Some of the New Zealanders were much alarmed. They expected the vessel to be dashed to pieces every moment, and particularly the Chief Timarangha. He wept much, and said he should never see his wife and children more; and begged the Captain to take all the boats from the masts (meaning the sails), for they would kill the Active. Tupee, on the other hand, was quite composed throughout the gale. He said, neither thunder, lightning, nor wind would destroy the vessel, while I and he remained in it; and exhorted Timarangha not to be afraid, for he was safe enough. Notwithstanding all that Tupee advanced, Timarangha's

fears continued with the gale; neither could he rest, night nor day. Tupee was accustomed to pray much; and sometimes he would have a few of the Natives with him. He had strong confidence in some Supreme Being. The God of New Zealand he was wont to call the object of his worship. I was very sick during the gale, and could seldom get out of my cot. Tupee would sit beside me, and put his hands on different parts of my body; and, at the same time, would pray to his God. Tupee is a dignified and superior character, and at all periods the same: he was very mild and even-tempered during the gale.

We were driven by the gale more than 200 miles to the northward of Port Jackson. When it abated, the wind became fair, and we anchored in Sydney Cove, on Wednesday the twenty-third of March, 1815.

I shall now conclude this Narrative, by observing, that the New-Zealand Chiefs are a warlike race, and very proud of their dignity and rank. They seem to be men who never forget a favour or a wrong; but to retain a grateful remembrance of those Europeans who have been kind to them, and to have the most sovereign contempt for any who have injured them. They appear to live in amity and peace among themselves, when under the government of one Chief. I saw no quarrelling, while I was there. They are kind to their women and children: I never observed either with a mark of violence on them; nor did I ever see a woman struck. The Settlers told me, that they had never seen any differences among the inhabitants at Ranghee-Hoo, during the time that they resided there; and I think quarrels are rare, amongst those of the same tribe, or of the same village. On the south side of the Bay of Islands, I was informed that no injury had been done to any Europeans since Capt. Cook was there. The two brother Chiefs, Terra and Tupee, are exceedingly well-disposed men, and would never allow the least act of violence to be committed on Europeans. They frequently stated the injuries which they and their people had suffered from the English, and that one Master of a vessel, not long ago, had shot two of their men dead. Notwithstanding this outrage, they had not retaliated on the Europeans; and mentioned this as a proof how much they wished to cultivate our friendship. They told me, that I need not be under any apprehension for the safety of the Active, while she remained with them. In answer, I said she should be constantly employed for their good, and to enable them to improve their country; and that they might consider her as belonging to New Zealand; and that she would not come to visit New Zealand from an expectation of deriving any advantage from them. One of the Chiefs replied, they were convinced of that, for they had nothing to give. I recommended to them to procure and dress what flax they could against the return of the Active, which would be in three moons; and I would send such articles as they wanted, to pay them for it, which they promised to do.

I am convinced that little good can be done among the Natives of New Zealand without a vessel; which would secure the lives of the Europeans settled on the islands; and would materially conduce to the civilization of the people, by offering frequent opportunities to the Chiefs to visit Port Jackson, where they might see the habits, and taste the comforts, of civilized life. They would acquire more knowledge in one month's residence in New South Wales, than they could for a long time in their own country, though Europeans were with them. A single view of our houses, with their furniture, our public buildings, His Majesty's stores and granaries, together with our arts and cultivation, would so much enlarge their views, that they would never lose the impression.

When I took Tupee and Timarangha to view our General Hospital, their astonishment was greatly excited. They immediately took its dimensions, in order that they might be able to tell what they had seen; observing to me, that their country was in an ignorant state, and that no work was done there. Notwithstanding the remark of

Tupee, the Natives are too active and industrious a race of men, to be satisfied with the mere residence of a few solitary European individuals among them. They will require to be frequently visited, and supplied with tools of agriculture. Iron is the only article which they at present value; fire-arms excepted.

They are very bold and daring, and undertake difficult enterprises. They have little means of cultivating their lands, for want of iron; and were quite destitute of every kind of grain before the Active went. They have no commerce with other nations. The only profession, therefore, that these Chiefs may be said to follow, is that of war. It is no uncommon thing for the people of the North Cape to travel through the country to the East Cape, a distance of near three hundred miles, to war. This is a great undertaking, when it is considered that there are no regular roads, no bridges over rivers, and little means of support in an uncultivated country, such as New Zealand.

Jem, the Otaheitan, told me, that he had been three times, within the last five years, at the East Cape, to war, in company with one thousand men. When they arrive in the territory of those whom they are going to plunder, it is only for a few mats, or a few prisoners of war.

While the Active lay at the River Thames, we observed a number of canoes on the beach. Inquiring where they came from, we were informed that they belonged to some warriors who lived on the west side of New Zealand, and had brought them overland, for the purpose of going to war with some of the tribes at the East Cape. I felt a great desire to visit their camp, and view the men who could undertake so arduous an enterprise, with heavy canoes, so far through a mountainous and uncleared country. Duaterra recommended me not to visit their camp, as it was unsafe. I took it very kind of him, and followed his advice. The distance to it was about three miles from our anchorage.

The New Zealanders are all cannibals. They did not appear to have any idea that this was an unnatural crime. When I expressed my abhorrence at their eating one another, they said it had always been the custom to eat their enemies. I was unable to ascertain whether they ever ate human flesh as a meal, or from choice, or in cool blood; but it strikes me to be only from mental gratification, and in retaliation of some great injury. So far as I can form an opinion of this horrid custom, I am inclined to believe that the New-Zealanders do not consider it any more crime to eat their enemies, than civilized nations do to hang an offender; although, at the same time, it stamps as much public disgrace on the surviving relatives, as the public execution of a criminal in Europe reflects on the family of the sufferer. When I represented to them that this barbarous and inhuman custom was unknown to Europe, and a foul disgrace to their nation, they seemed surprised; and Shunghee, who is a man of high authority, told me, as I had informed him it was wrong, he and his people would never be guilty of the like again; and others, who stood by at the time, gave the same assurance. I took an opportunity, on all occasions that offered, to impress on their minds the horror which this practice excited in the breasts of other nations, and the dread and disgrace which it attached to theirs.

It may be proper for me also to remark, that, although we met with the most friendly reception throughout every part of the coast at which we touched, yet I should recommend masters of vessels who visit New Zealand to be very cautious, unless they can depend on their crews be having well. The New Zealanders will not be insulted with impunity, nor treated as men without understanding: but will resent, to the utmost of their power, any injury attempted against them.

At the Bay of Islands, I consider a vessel to ride as safe as in the harbour of Port Jackson--should even any difference take place between the Natives and the crew; but for any other part of the island I will not answer.

When I take into consideration what I saw of these Islanders, and the frequent conversation which I had with them on various subjects; I am strongly inclined to believe, that they will soon be ranked among civilized nations; and especially if their wants

in iron are supplied. I am also of the opinion, that their own industry, in collecting timber and flax, or any other articles of commerce which their country may be found hereafter to produce, will contribute, in a great measure, to repay expenses: but I again assert, that, without iron, these people can never rise above their present situation. If means are adopted to furnish them with this essential article, then, indeed, their country will soon supply them with all the necessary conveniences and comforts enjoyed in civilized society: and as their comforts increase, so will their wants stimulate their industry, and will lay a solid foundation, not only for their civilization and improvement in Arts, but for the introduction of Christianity--the grand final object in the contemplation of the Society, and the devout wish of all those who pray for the prosperity of Zion.

From what I have stated, I trust that the Society will form a proper judgment of the situation and character of the Natives of New Zealand; and that the British Nation, while continuing to feel and enjoy the infinite blessings derived from the Gospel, which renders England the glory and envy of all nations, will likewise commiserate these poor Heathens, who are, literally, without God! I am confident that the Society, and all who aid their benevolent exertions, will feel a lively interest in the temporal and eternal welfare of so great a nation as New Zealand: and I have only to request, that you will present my respectful regards to the Committee, and assure them, that nothing shall be wanting, on my part, to second their benevolent wishes.

I have the honour to be,
Dear Sir,
Your most obedient humble servant,
SAMUEL MARSDEN.

A vessel, named the "Brothers," brings a melancholy account of the massacre of several of her own crew, and of that of the "Trial," by the New Zealanders, at the estimated distance of 150 miles S. E. of the Missionary Station at the Bay of Islands; being between the River Thames and Mercury Bay.

The "Trial" sailed from Sydney, for the Marquesas, on the twenty-third of May; intending to call at New Zealand, and there to join the "Brothers," which had taken her departure a few days previously, with the design of collecting flax.

These ships remained a month at the Bay of Islands; and from thence pursued a south-easterly course; trading with the Natives as they passed along. Making a short stay at a harbour which did not appear to have been before frequented by any Europeans, it was named Trial Harbour. They were treated in a very friendly manner; and promise was given them, that a quantity of flax should be provided against their return from the southward. The vessels proceeded toward Cook's Straits [which separate the northern and southern New-Zealand Islands from each other]; and, after running down a considerable extent of coast, returned to Trial Harbour. The Natives not having procured the flax according to their promise, it was designed that they should sail from thence on Monday August 21st.; but the vessels were attacked at noon on the preceding day, and the decks of both of them taken possession of by an immense number of the Natives.