1814-1853 - The Missionary Register [Sections relating to New Zealand.] - 1838 - Australasia--New Zealand, p 217-223

On the 7th of February, I embarked on board the Pyramus, a very fine ship, which was going to the west side of New Zealand for spars. As I was very weak and feeble, I took with me one of my daughters to assist me. I purposed to cross, by land, from the west side of the island to the east.

On the 23d, we crossed the bar of Hokianga River. The sea broke awfully upon the bar: we had no pilot; and were in great danger of being overwhelmed by the heavy violent waves constantly breaking about the vessel; and one rolled upon deck. Through the Divine protection, we escaped a watery grave. After we had crossed the bar, we came to anchor for the night. Next morning we proceeded up the river; and came to anchor again, near the Wesleyan Missionary Station; when I went on shore, and visited the Rev. N. Turner, whom I had formerly known. I remained here thirteen days, and saw many of the Chiefs whom I had formerly known. I found that many were inquiring after the Saviour, and that a large number attended Public Worship. I had much important conversation with them, on the subject of Religion, and Civil Government. They have no established laws among them; and they feel and lament the want of a Government. When I left Hokianga, a number accompanied me-- upward of seventy. Some met us from Waimate. We had to travel about forty miles, by land and water. The road lay through a very thick wood. The Natives carried me, on something like a hammock, for twenty miles. We reached Waimate as the sun went down; where we were kindly received by the Rev. W. Williams and his colleagues. One principal Chief, who has embraced the Gospel, and has been baptized, accompanied us all the way. He told me he was so unhappy at Hokianga, that he could not get to converse with me, from the crowds that attended; and that he had come to Waimate to speak with me. I found him to be a very intelligent man, and anxious to know the way to heaven. I met with numbers, wherever I went,, who were anxious after the knowledge of God. I was much pleased to find, that wherever I went I found some who could read and write. The Church Service has been translated into the native language, with

the Catechism, Hymns, and some other useful pieces. They are all fond of reading; and there are many who have never had an opportunity of attending the schools, who, nevertheless, can read. They teach one another in all parts of the country, from the North to the East Cape. The prospect of success to the Mission is very great. Since my arrival at the Missionary Station, I have not heard one oath spoken, either by European or Native. The Schools and Church are well attended; and the greatest order is observed among all classes. On the opposite side of the harbour a number of Europeans have settled along with the Natives. Several Europeans keep public-houses, and encourage every kind of crime. Here, drunkenness, adultery, murder, &c. are committed. There are no laws, judges, nor magistrates; so that Satan maintains his dominion without molestation. Some civilized Government must take New Zealand under its protection, or the most dreadful evils will be committed by runaway convicts, sailors, and publicans. There are no laws here to punish crimes. When I return to New South-Wales, I purpose to lay the state of New Zealand before the Colonial Government, to see if any thing can be done to remedy these public evils.

It is upward of seven years since my last visit. On my arrival here, I found two of the principal Chiefs at open war-- Pomare and Titore; in consequence of which, the whole island was in the greatest commotion. The Chiefs from all parts have assembled, with their men, to support either Pomare or Titore. I have repeatedly visited both parties, with a view of bringing them to terms of peace; but have not succeeded. The Rev. H. Williams has used every means in his power, but as yet without effect. There were 131 Europeans in Pomare's Pa, or fortification, and a great number in Titore's camp. These are generally men of the most infamous character; runaway convicts, and sailors, and publicans, who have opened grog-shops in the Pas, where riot, drunkenness and prostitution are carried on daily. What will be the issue of the contest, cannot be foreseen. Pomare's Pa is very strong. It appears to be impossible for Titore to take it. A few days ago, Titore sent 800 men, in 42 war-canoes, to attack Pomare's Pa; but they returned, after much firing between both parties, without effect. Two war-canoes met, and engaged, when three men belonging to Titore were killed: two of them were brothers, and men of high rank.

In the midst of all the miseries of war, God is prospering the Mission. Since my arrival, I have visited many of the Stations within the compass of a hundred miles, and have observed that a wonderful change has taken place within the last seven years. The portions of the Sacred Scriptures which have been printed have had a most astonishing effect. They are read by the Natives at every place where I have been. The Natives teach one another, and find great pleasure in the Word of God, and carry that sacred treasure with them wherever they go. Great numbers have been baptized; both Chiefs and their people. I have met with some very pious Chiefs, who have been invited by Pomare and Titore to join them in their present war; but they have refused. I met with one pious Chief who had been a great warrior, and was severely wounded in action the very day I arrived in New Zealand on my last visit; who informed me that Titore had sent for him, but that he would fight no more. I visited his Station: he has built a neat clean Place of Public Worship, which is visited by the Missionaries: in this he teaches school, as well as his son. I am at present at Waimate, which was formerly one of the most warlike districts in the islands; and I could not learn that one individual had joined the contending parties. Waimate is the most moral and orderly place I ever was in. A great number of the inhabitants, for some miles, have been baptized, and live like Christians. There are neither riots nor drunkenness, neither swearing nor quarrels; but all is order and peace. The same effects I have observed to be produced by the Scriptures and labours of the Missionaries in other districts. My own mind has been exceedingly gratified with what I have seen and heard; and I have no doubt that New Zealand will become a civilized nation. I consider the Missionaries, as a body, very pious, prudent, and laborious men; and that they

and their children are walking in the admonition of the Lord, so as to make them a national blessing, when they have finished their labours. It was my intention, when I came, to have visited all the Stations, from the North to the East Cape; but from the state of the country at the present time, it is not considered prudent for me to go to the South. I shall, therefore, return, God willing, to my duty in New South-Wales. When this country is more settled in its political affairs, something may be done in the South. My eyes are dim with age, like Isaac's: it is with some difficulty that I can see to write.

Among the Letters which I received, I forward one from a Chief addressed to me. It will shew the Committee how they are advancing in learning. I was sitting in my room when the Chief came in with the Letter in his hand, addressed to me. He had no pen nor ink, and had written it with a pencil. I gave him a sheet of paper, pen and ink, and desired him to copy it; when he sat down, and immediately complied with my request. I was much astonished to see him so ready with his pen. When he had copied it, I got one of the Missionaries to translate it for me: the Translation I also enclose. The Committee will judge from this Letter of the advances which the Natives are making toward civilization. This young man is a pious Chief, and succeeds the late Hongi. The Missionaries have great influence among the Natives; and, according to my judgment, they are doing much good.

Waimate, May 14, 1837

SIR, Will you give us a law? this is the purport of my address to you.

1. If we say, let the cultivations be fenced, and a man, through laziness, does not fence, should pigs get into his plantations, is it right for him to kill them? Do you give us a law in this matter.

2. Again; should pigs get into fenced land, is it right to kill, or rather to tie them, till the damage they have done is paid for? Will you give us a law in this?

3. Again; should the husband of a woman die, and she afterward wishes to be married to another, should the Natives of unchanged heart bring a fight against us, would it be right for us to stand up to resist them on account of their wrongful interference? Will you give us a law in this also?

4. Again; in our wickedness, one man has two wives; but after he has listened to Christ, he puts away one of them, and gives her to another man to wife. Now, should a fight be brought against us, are we in this case to stand up to fight? Give us a law in this.

5. Again; should two men strive one with the other, give us a law in this. My (ritenga) law is, to collect all the people together, and judge them for their unlawful fighting, and also for wrongfully killing pigs. Therefore I say, that the man who kills pigs for trespassing on his plantation, having neglected to fence, had better pay for the pigs so killed. Will you give us a law in this? Fenced cultivations, when trespassed on, should be paid for. These only are the things which cause us to err -- women, pigs, and fighting one with another.

6. But here is another. Should a man who is in the Church, come in a fight against us? Give us also a law in this.

Another thing, which we are afraid of, and which also degrades us, is this--slaves exalting themselves above their masters. Will you give us a law in this also?

This Letter is from a New-Zealand Chief to Mr. Marsden.

A good opportunity offers for conveying Letters to England, by the vessel in which the Rev. S. Marsden came to New Zealand. We are all much rejoiced to see this venerable person, who has come to visit us in the infirmity of his age. I

went to Waimate to meet him on his arrival there, and to bid him welcome to Kaitaia. He promised to come after he had been to the Southward; but he altered his mind, and came here first. On Saturday, April 1, he, with his daughter and the Rev. H. Williams, arrived at our Settlement. The Natives came, party after party, to see him: and had his stay been prolonged to a week, the whole Tribes of the Rarawa would have been gathered together. Being anxious about the safety of the vessel, and the wind being fair, our venerable friend took his departure, probably to see us no more in this world. He is now seventy-two years of age. He resided at our house, and I thought myself highly privileged to hear an old believer pray. It was evident that he had grown in spirituality of mind, as he has grown in years. The Natives looked upon his grey hairs, and expressed their admiration of his love for them, in visiting them in his old age. Mr. Marsden learnt all particulars with regard to Toki and Huru, two Natives, who were taken away from this part by Governor King, to teach the prisoners of Norfolk Island to prepare the native flax; that plant growing on that island. A Native Chapel, for the worship of the True God, is now finished on the spot whence these two Natives came. They died about two years ago; and are well known to these Tribes, as having first introduced the potato. Mr. Marsden, on hearing that I came from the North, immediately made inquiry for these two Natives; he having met them at Norfolk Island, where they dined every day with the Governor. Mr. Marsden communicated this new information to us at the Waimate--That his meeting with these two Northern Natives first gave him a desire to benefit this interesting race. These two men were loaded with presents from Governor King and Mr. Marsden: they brought with them potatoes, and five very large pigs. There were no pigs in New Zealand before this, so far as we know, nor potatoes: this is more than forty years ago. The potatoes they planted; but did not like them for many years: I suppose they attempted to eat them raw, as they did the corn, which was introduced also by Governor King, in person, at the North Cape. Two old Chiefs mentioned his name to Mr. Marsden, I think, on the Wednesday; although we could not hear it by any of the younger men in the preceding days. Governor King told these people, that if they were kind to the pigs, they would have abundance in time. They received no produce from any of these pigs. They used to make sport of them, by hunting them; and, according to them, one of these pigs would drag half-a-score of them along the ground. No doubt, they killed them in this way, as they say one died full of young ones. The last large pig routed up a corpse buried in a sacred place near our Settlement; and was killed, and eaten, as a payment. Swine have been produced here from some introduced into the Bay of Islands, or somewhere in that quarter, of a latter date. The Natives at the North have had maize for forty years: but being a long time before they knew how to cook it, it did not gain repute till of late years: very fine corn is now grown about us. Mr. Marsden spoke to the Natives, through an interpreter; and he then gave the history of his first affection for their race. He told them, that twenty years elapsed after his seeing those two Natives, before he saw another New Zealander, or did any thing for them: he then went to England, and brought out Mr. King &c. There were 300 Natives to listen to his discourse.

May 30, 1837--I went to Kerikeri, with Messrs. Marsden and Busby, and the Officers of the Rattlesnake.

June 2 -- Sailed with Mr. Marsden this morning, in the Rattlesnake, for the Southward. We previously went on shore at Kororarika; and saw the body of Titore, who died last night. We were surprised at seeing some Chiefs eating food within the sacred enclosure where Titore was laid out. The women too appeared to have laid aside their usual violent mode of shewing grief, by cutting and gashing their arms and breasts; nor does it seem probable that, any of Titore's slaves will be killed, out of honour to him. These are so many proofs that the edifice of superstition is crumbling away beneath the

irresistible power of the glorious Gospel; and that, too, among a tribe of whom few have as yet bowed either the knee or the heart to the Name of Jesus.

June 6, 1837--I went with Mr. Marsden to our Thames Station. During the evening, a few Chiefs called to converse with Mr. Marsden. One of them had accompanied Mr. Marsden, fourteen years since, from the Thames to Tauranga. At length we had to request the Natives to leave; when one of them said, "We wish to have a very long stedfast look at the old man, because he cannot live long enough to visit us again."

June 8 -- Rounded Cape Colville in the night; and, with light and variable winds, had a short run during the day through the Mercury Isles. We enjoyed a most lovely evening. In a long conversation with Mr. Marsden on deck, he spoke of almost all his old friends having preceded him to the Eternal World--Romaine, Newton, the Milners, Scott, Atkinson, Robinson, Buchanan, Good, Thomason, Rowland Hill, Legh Richmond, Simeon, and others. He then alluded, in a very touching manner, to his late wife. They had passed, he observed, more than forty years of their pilgrimage through this wilderness in company; and he felt their separation the more severely as the months rolled on. I remarked that their separation would be but for a short period longer. "God grant it!" was his reply; and then, lifting his eyes toward the moon, which was peacefully shedding her beams on the sails of our gallant bark, he exclaimed, with intense feeling--

In the evening, the vessel sailed with our valued and venerable Father. This Mission, especially in its infant state, was deeply indebted to him for his advice, counsel, labours, and prayers; and his heart has now been cheered in witnessing the wonderful change which has taken place in this part of the island, since he first landed on it as the herald of mercy to its savage inhabitants: for though his late visit to us has been made in troublous times, and in the midst of war, yet the conduct, with few exceptions, of the Baptized Natives -- the knowledge imparted in the schools--the steady progress of the Translation of the Scriptures, by the Rev. W. Williams--and the extensive preaching of the Gospel throughout the Northern District--have shewn him that the great and good work which he was the honoured instrument of introducing into this land has been accompanied by the manifest blessing of Him in whose favour is life; and I doubt not, from Mr. Marsden's own expressed sentiments, that he has left us with the language of good old Simeon in his heart, Lord, now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, according to thy word; for mine eyes have seen thy salvation!

We beg leave to trespass on your patience, as well as on your accustomed kindness, while we inform you of the state of the Rarawa Tribes, among whom it has pleased God to situate us as Missionaries. Not only are they, both male and female, almost dependent on us for every article of clothing, but are more especially so in cases of sickness. The Ngapuhi Tribes, in addition to their being surrounded by Missionaries, from whom they can at all times obtain those comforts and medicines which afflictions call for, have, in case of accident, occasional helps from doctors who may be in

the Bay of Islands, or at Hokianga, at the time. The population of which we have charge is, on the least calculation, 5000. From this number it may be expected that we have many calls for assistance, and in cases of various descriptions. This has, indeed, been the case since we first resided here; and, according to our ability, we have administered the medicine required; from which, through the mercy of God, many have received benefit, which they have acknowledged by presents. Although our knowledge in medicine is very limited, yet we have generally succeeded, by following the instructions of the Rev. W. Williams, and by paying attention to Thomas's Guide to Health. Some very stubborn cases have been completely cured. We have, however, as calls have increased, found our means to be so limited, that we have long thought it desirable to have a small medicine chest, and some surgical instruments, which might be used as occasion required. We have deferred writing to you before, lest it should be thought that we were asking for things out of the proper mode; but now, from many reasons, which need not here be named, we feel it to be an incumbent duty to ask you to comply with our request. Several severe accidents have happened in the course of the past year; and we think that some relief might have been given, had we had surgical instruments. A case of a distressing nature occurred a few weeks back, at Herekino. A man, in a skirmish, had his arm shot; and the Natives thought they had better cut it off: they, accordingly, cut the flesh; and having slightly notched the bone around, broke it off. The consequence was, that the man instantly died. If we had had instruments, we might have done something for him; that is, had they informed us. For our own sakes, also, we think that duty calls upon us to write to you on this subject. We have now lost our kind mother-in-law --Mrs. Davis--who in cases of sickness was able to advise and administer help; and may be visited with affliction without having due time to call in medical aid, which could not reach us from Waimate, or the Bay, under a week, or four days at the least. We would therefore thank you to send us, for the especial use of the Kaitaia Station, a medicine chest, some cases of lancets, trochars, and other surgical and midwifery instruments. It will be necessary to have the amputating instruments, all complete.

Since the former part of my Letter was written, more than six weeks have elapsed; during which I have been very actively employed at Paihia, Waimate, and its surrounding villages, in attending to the numerous sick Natives, both as they have come to me for medicine, and as I have visited them at their own houses. I was called more particularly to Waimate, in consequence of a severe and dangerous injury which Edward Williams received in a fall from his horse at that place, which was nearly productive of fatal consequences: but, through the blessing of God upon the means used, I am happy to say he is now convalescent; and has only this day returned to Paihia, after a six weeks' season of affliction. During the time I spent at Waimate-- about five weeks--the calls upon my time were incessant. The influenza has prevailed universally among them: its character has been very severe; and, notwithstanding the greatest attention that could be paid them, it has, in many cases, terminated in consumption, and thus carried off its victims. But while we have reason to lament that in many cases it has proved fatal, yet I would be grateful to God in being able to record that signal benefit has been derived from the regular attendance of a medical man, and from a proper exhibition of medicine. As a proof of this, I need only tell you, that, during my first visits around Waimate, the Pas were crowded with sick: you could scarcely enter a single house but you would find some of the inmates "down;" as is the emphatic expression of New Zealanders, when a person is taken ill. It was quite discouraging to view the universal extent of disease among them, combined with their extreme helplessness, and discomfort, under such circumstances. As soon as they are taken ill, they at once give themselves up in despair, and make use of no means for their recovery. During this late

visitation of sickness among them, it was their impression that God's wrath was now coming down upon them for their atrocious sins; and that He was about to sweep them away, and destroy them as a nation. I would, however, observe, that, in my late attendance upon them, so completely have the majority recovered, that I have visited many of the Pas in quest of my patients, and have found not a single individual in them; all being engaged in attending to their plantations. I merely mention this to shew--and I think my friend Mr. Matthews, who has been my almost uniform interpreter in my journeys, will confirm me in its truth-- that the persevering attendance of a medical man among the Natives is calculated to be of great service, both as it respects the health of their bodies, and the choice opportunities afforded of impressing upon them the concerns of their never-dying souls.

The cases which I have attended are just such as could scarcely ever be visited by our Missionaries, excepting on Lord's Days: and what is a solitary visit one day in seven, when a person is being destroyed by the ravages of acute disease? The multifarious secular concerns in which Missionaries are obliged to be engaged in New Zealand make such a demand upon their time from morning till night, that the Lord's Day is, for the most part, the only day on which they can itinerate. The sick, therefore, at their own houses are left to die, unless a person is specially appointed for the purpose of seeking them out, and administering to them what their exigency requires. And this opens to me a delightful field of labour; which I bless God in sending so unworthy an instrument as I am to fill. Oh may He give grace, strength, and wisdom to discharge its duties, to the glory of His Name, and to the temporal and eternal welfare of the poor heathen around me! My heart has quite rejoiced, as I have gone forth, day by day, in this work and labour of love, and have seen that God has blessed our visits to these people. I have felt the delight of having my own soul watered abundantly, while endeavouring to pour in consolation among those who were so much in need of it. At least 800 Natives have been under my care during the last six weeks; whose cases, for the most part, have not only been seen, but followed up, and generally to a happy result. I am keeping a regular journal of Cases; which I shall have much pleasure in forwarding to the Committee at home, as soon as I have completed one book of them. They will serve to give you some idea of the nature of the diseases among the New Zealanders; and especially of the universal prevalence of scrofula, in all its aggravated forms. I must really look upon it as an interposition of Providence in sending me here, possessing a knowledge of medicine, to labour among these people, and to watch over the state of their health. I know not whether our God has been pleased to employ this means to stem the torrent of disease, by which this once-fine people are being hurried to the tomb; but it is the opinion of the oldest Missionaries here, that if depopulation had been carried on at the same rate at which it has proceeded during the last few years, in a very short period the Natives would have ceased to exist as a people. You may look far and wide, and you can scarcely point out a single instance of a New Zealander being free from disease. May a sense of their sad condition stimulate us all to greater earnestness and importunity in pressing upon them to flee from the wrath to come! and may we pray without ceasing on their behalf! I am rejoiced to testify, amidst this sad picture, that there is a work going on among them, and that God is blessing the efforts of His Labourers here. I have seen one, in her dying moments, bearing her triumphant testimony to the faith as it is in Jesus; rejoicing in its privileges; and, with her latest breath, exhorting those around her to forsake their evil ways and embrace the Gospel. And such cases, I am happy to add, are not singular: there are many of God's true followers among the Natives. May He increase their number a hundredfold! I could add many interesting circumstances, if time permitted; but our engagements in New Zealand are such, that we can with difficulty set apart a quiet moment for writing.

I am now stationed at Paihia, and have a house in course of erection at Horotutu. I have a surgery fitted up there. Though I regard this as my home, and as a central spot, I nevertheless spend half the week at Waimate and its neighbourhood, visiting the sick in the villages around. In the course of a few weeks, I have it in prospect to proceed to the northward; and by the first desirable opportunity, I hope to visit the Southern Stations. Thus I trust my services will be made as generally useful as possible.