[Letters and Journal]
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Letters
To Col. Wm. Wakefield. Nelson -- February 5th 1844.
I have only this morning received your letter of the 25th January marked by our Post Master as "Loose Letter received at Nelson 6th February".... Mr Fox had previously written to me under the impression that I had received your letter, requesting me to acquaint him with my intentions in reference to the proposed appointment, to which I replied informing him that I had not received any communication from you, and that such an engagement as he intimated would not be attractive to me, chiefly because it appeared from the prospectus that the site of the future Settlement of the City of Edinburgh was already predetermined, and that with regards rather to the quality of the Port than that of the Land, a preference which I consider must (unless the character of the country and quality of the soil be very different from what it is here) inevitably entail on the future emigrant community great disappointment and distress. From all that I have been able to learn of the District adjacent to Port Cooper (and I have never omitted an opportunity of inquiry) I should be agreeably disappointed if there should be found there an extensive and accessible tract of prime land, but I have not met with any individual who has taken the trouble to explore the country, even to the extent of one good days journey back from the coast, that is on the mainland not on the Peninsular, that believes so.
Nothing would interest me, or gratify my ambition in reference to a future settlement short of an opportunity of selecting the site after reporting to you on the comparative advantages of different localities, making a careful examination of the coast from Bank's Peninsular to Milford Haven. The Knowesly River District (possibly the Oreti River at Invercargill), at the extremity of the Island, chiefly excites my expectations.
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I beg to assure you of the gratification it has afforded me to receive from the Court of Directors an assurance of their entire satisfaction with my efforts in the discharge of the duties entrusted to me, as well as subsequently that of your own continued approbation.
I may without affection of humility disclaim being entitled to so much praise - it is a sort of chiaroscuro (or Clair-obscure) effect produced by the contrast in which I had the advantage and good fortune of deriving success and some éclat from not having the same extent of physical difficulties.
Frederick Tuckett.
There is possible a further page to this letter that was not supplied by Archives New Zealand.
In his correspondence home Tuckett complained that his letters, both ways, were being opened and read and therefore he had to be careful about expressing his opinions. What F. T. says in the above letter shows that this must have been happening, otherwise how did Fox know about the offer of appointment before Tuckett had received the letter.
It is also interesting to note that, although he wished to go home, he could not resist the opportunity of helping to found a settlement that appeared to meet his ideas regarding the immigration of smallholder sections rather than the larger landholdings.
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To Col. Wm Wakefield. -- Nelson March 28th 1844.
Although I sought the extended discretionary powers you have entrusted to me in authorising me to select the site of the Settlement of New Edinburgh, I do not regard lightly the responsibility which I have incurred - and whilst it gratifies my ambition you may rely on me that I shall not act counter to the wishes and judgment of so many Parties, sustained by so much evidence, or any slight or doubtful consideration. What I hope to find, not distant from Otago, is an extensive tract of good land, near to a sufficiently good shore for the safe and convenient landing or reception of freight at or on the Foveaux Straits, the same on the bank of a river affording easy access in reference to its occupation, and with a harbour at the mouth of the river. Supposing such to exist it must be incomparably preferable, independent of any other advantageous circumstances, as the continuity of timber, coal and lime, should such desiderates also exist.
I regret to inform you that I commence on a scale of expenditure exceeding my estimate, and although this may be not unusual, it is not the less unsatisfactory to me. It is occasioned by my having engaged a larger vessel than I had contemplated, the lugger "Hydrus" had left on a trading excursion. The "Royal William Lindy" and "Tinotta", were either of them to be obtained, but as I should not have been master on board, as in the lugger, I was afraid to hazard the execution of an important enterprise which might be frustrated by a perverse or drunken skipper. I have therefore chartered the "Deborah" (Capt Wing) of 120 Tons. I have done so with less hesitation because I propose shipping timber, bricks, lime etc as sufficient for a small house, and by placing the freight of this at the account of the agency and retrenching on some other items of my original estimate, I still hope not to much exceed it in my capacity of explorer and surveyor. Should Mr. Rennie's departure be at all postponed I shall not the less need the shelter and accommodations of a house during
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the ensuing winter, resigning it with my office to him on his arrival. I would gladly have acted on your suggestion and chartered the "Shepherdess", in preference to the "Deborah", could she have called here. Receiving your letter on the 15th it was impossible for me to make a multitude of arrangements and leave for Wellington in time to see you on the 19th, Mr Fox, Mr Barnicoat and Mr Davison were all absent, and Mr Barnicoat, although sent for immediately, that the weather permitted, has scarcely been able to return in time to admit of our sailing, as proposed, on Monday the 25th.
I have drawn, on you, through the Bank of Nelson, to meet the preliminary expenses for the Settlement of New Edinburgh, a bill to the amount of Five Hundred Pounds, opening with its proceeds an account at the Bank on which I propose drawing cheques as if residing here and taking with me of this sum, about £120 in specie, my disbursements here will be about £300, so that little balance will remain.
On discharging the "Deborah" I shall give Capt Wing a Bill on you, I agree with him, for two months for 180 Pounds, which is at the rate of 15 shillings per ton per month, he should not have accepted less than twenty shillings, but he called here on his way from Taranaki to Waikawaiki taking a Wesleyan Missionary, Mr Creed exchanging with the present resident there, Watkins. I charter the vessel absolutely at my own disposal, exclusive of this prior engagement to land Mr & Mrs Creed and to call on his return and convey Mr Watkins to Wellington. I must call at Wellington and invite Mr Symonds to accompany me or obtain from him the information respecting claimants and established claims to land. If Col Godfrey's Report has not been received it would be important to forward it after me.
I propose landing first at Port Cooper, and weather permitting walking from there to Otago, making this port and 90 mile Beach district the standard of comparison, if I cannot accomplish this, then I walk say two days journey south of Port Cooper and return and from Otago say two journeys north, making also the lands at inter-
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mediate points wherever practicable, and so on successively to Milford Haven (time and weather permitting). I believe it would be impracticable to make a coast survey and also a sufficient examination of the country within the time proposed, if I used the term survey I meant only an eye survey. I did propose and hope to effect an actual survey of the port which I prefer and any other which appears eligible for the proposed, or a future settlement, and as far as time, and the primary object, the examination of the land will permit. I would like to make an actual survey of such parts of the coast as are least known, or of such as it is of most importance to define correctly, but I cannot indulge an expectation of accomplishing this excepting to a limited extent.
If I detain the "Deborah" more than two months I am to pay Capt Wing three Pounds per day for extra time. I infer from your silence on the point that the amount of compensation which the natives are entitled to is a fixed price already determined, or to be determined by the Commissioner of Land Claims, when I am able to announce to you my selection you will please to furnish me with information and means to effect the same, unless Mr Symonds determines the point, in which case I shall only have to acquaint you with the kind of payment, whether goods or specie, which the natives would prefer. In the event of finding a locality decidedly superior to any other, to which a claim had already been established, and suppose such claimant to be absent and to have no agent empowered to treat for the sale of the land, the probability of Mr Rennie's speedy arrival will not, I conclude, permit the selection of the site to be deferred pending a negotiation with the absent Proprietor. I imagine that only the unacknowledged, or rather un-investigated claims can be set aside or superseded in favour of the New Zealand Company.
If it should happen that the number of the Native Proprietors of the district which is purchased is few, would it not be very desirable to extend the payment of the purchase money to a period of three or four years, giving them a third or a fourth of the whole
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sum annually, until the whole be paid (this is done in North America), the British settlers would thus have time to obtain actual occupation and establish themselves, the natives would derive a continued benefit from the transaction and subsequent regret, if it should evince, would be deferred!
Without incurring the expense of returning the Schooner, it would not be possible for me to define in an advertisement (as I have usually done) the exact districts to be surveyed, but only to describe the character of the land and its natural growth and invite tenders for two or three contracts to embrace the survey of the 2000 sections of 10 acres, the exact locality and the physical, or other boundaries of the contracts, to be defined on the arrival of the parties desirous of contracting. However important may be the early commencement and rapid execution of the survey, it is yet more important that it should embrace only the best land, the selection of which may require renewed examination, especially if there is an ample extent and any field for choice. The character of the individual is the primary consideration in reference to the probability of the honourable fulfilment of the contract. I hope unsuitable persons may be timely discouraged from any expectation of being entrusted with the survey. It is almost impossible to draw a contract which an unprincipled person will not evade, at least as regards its acknowledged intentions. I would be pleased to receive Tenders from some of my late assistants here, but the proceedings of the combined force would be more than I could verify or contract.
I am no accountant but will take care to record in some form every transaction, taking receipts in duplicate for each payment.
Please to specify the amount of my double salary (the more the better) and I will earn it as far as my abilities and the nature of the service permit. Also the sooner Mr Rennie arrives the better, for even though I should happen to regard the New Settlement as a Utopia, I should be equally anxious to proceed to England as early as possible. The engagement which I have entered
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on, I understand to be a temporary one pending the arrival of Mr Rennie, and then terminating.
Frederick Tuckett.
From the content of this letter it appears that Tuckett is reiterating and making clear how he intended to carry out the exploration, including what amount of surveying would be necessary in deciding which area would be suitable for the proposed settlement. He also outlines some of the finances needed, even touching on the matter of the salary he would be paid, something that had obviously not been settled beforehand. It also appears that he did not expect J. J. Symonds to accompany the expedition, although he proposes inviting him, but would only arrive once the site had been chosen to "oversee" the negotiations of the purchase. Perhaps, if this had happened, it would have saved a lot of controversy.
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F. T's Diary
Tuckett made ready for his exploration to choose the site of the proposed Settlement of New Edinburgh appointing John Wallis Barnicoat and W. E. Davison as his assistants, and by
March 28th.
He had Chartered Captain Thomas Wing's Schooner Deborah and shipped bricks, timber and all other necessary stores for the journey ahead.
March 31st.
We left Nelson and Sailed for Wellington.
April 1st.
We Anchored P. M. (late afternoon) off Port Nicholson, and I landed at Wellington by boat.
April 2nd.
The schooner came into Port to facilitate the embarkation of Symonds Esq. PM (The PM. after Symonds name stands for Police Magistrate, a post he held in Wellington. Tuckett was not happy about having to collect Symonds from the wharf instead of him boarding the schooner by boat, as this would have cost sailing time), and in the evening sailed.
April 3rd.
Continuing to run with a fine breeze, before sunset we sighted the Banks Peninsular at least 20 miles distant.
April 4th.
Arrived off the Banks Peninsular during the night but instead of entering Port Cooper (now Lyttelton Harbour) this morning, as we might have done, we had lost ground having
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stood northward in the night and have then drifted on the breeze, failing by a strong northerly current to stand off the harbour. Morning wet and foggy, however the weather cleared toward the evening. Ports Cooper and Levy were distinguishable about 9 miles distant. (Again F. T. was impatient at the delay)
April 5th.
Becalmed off the entrance to Port Cooper, launched my boat and went in on a heavy swell, landed at the head of a Bay on the S. E. side of the Port, at the residence of Mr. Greenwood. Accompanied by Mr. Greenwood, I walked over the hills along the shore to obtain a sight of the upper part of Port Cooper and the next Bay opposite to Quail Island, the pasture on the hills is very abundant there, growth apparently rapid, the slopes undesirably steep, but not altogether impracticable to a road. In the Bays the water is exceedingly shoal, otherwise these would afford a harbour for shipping sheltered from the swell of the ocean. On our return, the schooner having entered the Port and anchored off the Bay, I returned on board. Three boats were along side belonging to natives from Port Levy, with them were the chiefs Tuawaite and Tiron, the former dressed as an European and in manners a good imitation of his European associates, the latter an uncivilised Maori of marked but repulsive Jewish physiognomy.
Mr. Symonds made an abrupt and extraordinary remark to me, as I conclude intending to convey his disapprobation of my having gone on shore, informing me that the Maoris were very jealous and did not like or understand this spying out of the land. (This was a second instance of disagreement) The schooner went further up the Port and anchored off Quail Island.
April 6th.
The water was agitated and broken, making it difficult to go on shore in the boat without getting wet, however we landed on
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the east shore of the upper Bay without too much problem, prevented by shoal water from coming to the west side or proceeding to the head of the Bay, thus I missed a native settlement at which I expected to have procured a guide to conduct me to the Waiola and there to the dwelling of Messrs Deans. To facilitate my wishes Tuawaika had written in my memoranda book a note to a Maori to this effect "Friend Korau, how do you do, this is the words of John Tuaiki, it is for you to conduct the Gentleman, Mr. Tuckett is his name, for you him to conduct to the house of Mr. Deans".
There is ample extent of available land on this side of the mud flats proceeding south to its head for the site of a town, and the soil in the valleys is deep and fertile, each valley watered by a stream but not convenient of access even to small boats for the supply of shipping.
There is a pass (possibly Dyers or Evans Passes) in the range of hills at the head of the Port, the ascent to which is easy and even almost practicable for a cart without forming a road, descending on the other side for a distance of about quarter of a mile, some considerable excavation and embankment would be necessary in the construction of a Road, with the exception of this short interval of space, the great Plain on the shore of the Waiola, is easy of access, and from thence northward to Messrs Deans and onwards to the Waimakiridi rim, about 20 miles, a cart road might be formed (metalling excepted) at a very inconsiderable expense.
Looking down the great Plain, I was, at first sight, delighted and astonished to behold an extent of level land so unwanted (uninhabited), but much wanted in New Zealand, but the predominance of a russet tint, far and near, lowered my expectations indicating too truly the extent of Raupo swamp (or bull-rush) already struck by the frost.
The Waiola (?The Avon & Heathcote Estuary) appeared to be at points scarcely separate from the ocean by a narrow sand or bolder bank and instead of having, as I had imagined, an inland lake,
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the source of rivers, it appeared to me an unattractive and almost useless lagoon, the recipient of the drainage of the great marsh from which it filters through the bolder bank to the ocean.
The old charts convey an accurate representation of Banks Peninsular, supposing Port Cooper did not exist or rather that the lofty hills which separate it from the Plain on the West & from the ocean on the N. N. E. were removed, then a neck of level land at the head of the Waiola would be the isthmus which is delineated. To this I descended and found it to be almost a deposit of fine sand, apparently in its early stage of vegetation, covered with such plants as are familiar to, and can exist in spite of much saline moisture. Instead of sinking in crossing it up to my knees and, as I expected to do, I crossed it to the bank of a deep stream dry footed, a distance of two miles and unable to attain a draught of water, the copious supply which it receives from the range from which I had descended being almost immediately absorbed.
I met with a Maori and endeavoured to induce him to guide me to Messrs Deans, he pointed out the track by which I ought to have come from the native settlement, and also that which I was to pursue, but he would not go with me, nor did I care to obtain his company, for he was a most impudent and impertinent beggar, the country was an easy one to explore, and as there are south of the River Waimakiridi only two small Pine Groves visible on this great tract, and I was apprised that on the skirt of one of them and the nearest was Messrs Dean's residence and that I required no guide.
I found generally a fine dry belt of land along the East bank of the stream, between which and the foot of the hills on the East there is unfrequented raupo swamps, but these not very objectionable as they would readily drain, probably afford fuel and certainly when drained prove very fertile. Sometimes I crossed a projecting spine of the hills to obtain a new viewing of the Plain, and of my goal the Pine grove, for 7 or so miles the course of the
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stream was upwards nearly north, so far I followed it on my route, leaving it at a bend where it flowed from the west, on an average its course may be about 3/4 of a mile from the foot of the hills, its channel narrow but deep and tranquil, easily navigated with boats inland, but of the facility of entering on the sea shore (near Grashire) I cannot speak, it affords a frontage for a series of valuable sections, and the hills at the back are well adapted for sheep pastures, and in the ravines ascending the hills can be obtained, in many places, wood for fuel and fencing, on the west bank probably half a mile of swamp could be drained, although not available in its present state, further in I hear that the central part of the Plain would not be easily reclaimed.
I crossed over to it once, following a well beaten track which led to a native ferry, a float, a bundle of the flowering stalks of the Phormium tenax, with a rope of the leaves of the same plant, unfortunately instead of bestriding it as a horse, and submitting to immerse my legs, I attempted to escape all wetting and knelt upon the float, which I had no sooner hauled into the current when it gave a turn and completely ducked me, soaking the change of clothes which I carried as well as the clothes which I wore. My companion, Mr. Davison profited of my experience and rode across safely, but we had soon the disappointment of finding that we ought not to have crossed the stream, for the track conducting us into the Raupo, became wetter and wetter until it terminated at an eel trap, in deep standing water. I mention this circumstance in confirmation of my opinion as to the low level of the surface. However, the further I proceeded on the road from the Waiola, the more decided was the rise of the surface with a corresponding diminution in the population of Raupo, wherever I observed the Toe Toe (Toa Toa) frequent, although small and stunted, the land appeared superior, its growth a mixed one of Phormium tenax, Fern, Toe Toe, and a course sedge grass, such is the prevailing description of land between the stream,
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which I next crossed, the Opawa and that on the bank of which Mr. Deans resides (the Putaukaurut). The daylight vanished and I was compelled to lay down on the wet ground, in wet clothes, and without a fire or blanket, we had tried our best to reach Mr. Deans but found it impossible.
April 7th.
I shook on waking, after a short sleep, as if I had an ague, warmed myself a little after the manner of hackney coachmen, by thrashing myself, got another nap, and then at daybreak, roused again by cold, started at quick pace and soon shook off the chills and damps of the night. Dr Munroe, Mr. Wolhers and Mr. Barnicoat had arrived at Messrs Deans overnight having walked by the direct course (about 8 miles). After breakfast I walked with Mr. Deans about 2 or 3 miles west of their house and then northwards as far as the river Waimakaridi, the land deteriorates rapidly, as far as I went to the West, producing little beyond detached tufts of grass, perfectly withered and parched, which the cattle do not appear to feed on, their cattle however appeared to be in fine condition and their location has been a most judicious choice.
It is evident that there was formerly an extensive Pine Forest, which has been from time to time diminished and destroyed by fire (what is left is now Riccarton Bush), and since then successive and frequent fires on the grass have completely exhausted and impoverished a once fertile district. The Messrs Deans have a few acres of land in tillage, previously grass land, without manure it has produced a moderate crop of wheat & potatoes, it appeared to work easily, Mr. Deans states that he can break it up with two horses, in depth and moisture it far exceeds the average of the land on the Plain. I was surprised to find the halm (stalks) of the Potatoes entirely perished, already cut by the frost:
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April 8th.
I Returned to Port Cooper, to make arrangements for native guides, intending to return to the house of our hospitable friends, and start from there on a long journey overland to Otago, crossing to the hills at the west side of the Plain (about 14-15 miles across) and then south to the Waitake (Waitaki River), thus re-crossing the Plain and following its course to the coast. Found on board Tuawaiki's Tewa, who promised to provide me six Maori guides in the morning. In returning from Mr. Deans, the land from their house to the foot of the hills, which we crossed, appeared to be of good quality. Should it be surveyed and subdivided into small sections, the most valuable would be obtained on either side of and between the Putarikamut and the Opawa streams, which discharge their waters on the shore where the beach terminates at the Peninsular, the entrance from the sea is into a tideway, a mud flat, and a large boat may enter and ascend either of these streams for a few miles.
We descended from the hill to the shore of Port Cooper at a small native settlement, inhabited apparently almost exclusively by a few aged Maoris, one of whom Tuawe was seated in state on a mat, his head decorated with a plume, he had a dignified countenance & manner, the hair of his head very grey, whilst his beard and bushy eyebrows were of a jet blackness, probably stained; he appeared to fancy himself holding a court and graciously giving audience, and however ridiculous were his pretensions, they were at least attended with this practical good, that in his person he was more attentive than is usual amongst these natives to the decencies of life. Another old man was named Waiwiake, and another (badly scalded on the neck and shoulder), Arumataina; and there was one able bodied man of middle age named Pigimarre, a number of unspeakably wretched and hideous aged women completed the group.
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Letters
To Col. Wm. Wakefield. -- Port Cooper April 8th 1844.
Before sunset on Wednesday evening we were within sight of Banks Peninsular, the fine breeze before which we had run then gradually died away and favoured by a bright moonlight we ought to have made Port Cooper, but Thursday morning no land was in sight and the weather had changed and become thick and rainy towards evening, it cleared for a little while and enabled us to distinguish our Port about 10 miles distant. Friday morning becalmed, I had my boat lowered and went into Port, found the ground swell without and within very heavy, passing the little bay marked on the plan as a watering place (but which does not afford water now, on this the summer season). I landed at the head of the next bay, at a cattle station, occupied by a Mr Greenwood. The schooner came in in the course of the afternoon, in the interim Mr Greenwood conducted me over the hills to the upper bay, behind Quail Island, from the hills the 90 mile beach and the Waiola Lagoon were visible.
Returning on board I found Tuawaiti and Tiroa and several men of the resident natives. In the two former I was unable to recognise the accomplishments of civilisation, on the ground of their reported gentility, but on the contrary found them, as natives deficient in dignity and unprepossessing in physiognomy, as civilised beings a good specimen of the brutal and degraded class of with whom they have associated.
Saturday, crossed over the hills from the head of Port Cooper to the Waiola, found the ascent at the present practicable for a cart, the descent on the South side toward the Waiola for about a 1/4 of a mile, in its present state, not practicable as a cart road, but easily to be made so. The situation and character of the Waiola have not been represented correctly, on its length, perhaps
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15 or 20 miles, it is parallel with the shore and so nearly contiguous that in places the eye can hardly detect any line of separation between it and the ocean, there is however a continuous boulder or shingle bank, similar to that which forms Nelson Haven, separating it from Blind Bay. The waters of the great marsh drain into the Waiola and are probably discharged subterraneously, filtering through the shingle bank to the ocean, in such position it presents a feature of no interest either in point of beauty or utility.
Distant about 16 miles, in a direction due north is a small wood (about 60 acres) on the skirt of which and on the bank of a nice stream (the Otakaro) the Messrs Deans have established themselves. I found no difficulty in gaining their residence, without the assistance of a guide. In the first 10 miles on this course I generally followed near the bank of a deep stream which runs south towards the Waiola, 2 or 3 miles further and you cross another stream (the Opawa) which, like the Otakaro, and nearly parallel in its course, flows east, discharging its waters on a mud flat about 4 miles from Port Cooper's headland. Continuing my examination of the land I walked with Mr Deans about 8 miles west into the plain and then about 5 miles north to the banks of the River Waimakaridi (truly an angry and ugly River). Inland, about 2 miles north of Mr Deans is another wood, in extent about 40 acres, and these two are the only woodland visible from the heights of Banks Peninsular. On this vast plain, south of the Waimakaridi, but north, there appears to be a fine district on which the growth of timber is abundant, the Ti Tree frequent and of larger growth, besides flax and Toe Toe, all its growth indicating a fertile soil. If I cannot find a better location at Otago or Forveaux Straits, I see the way clear how to lay out the lands of the settlement. I should have the 10 acre sections on one bank of the three streams throughout the district, and on the opposite bank divide the land into 50 acre sections, in order to remedy as far as practicable the grievous unfitness of the scheme of this settlement for
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the peculiar country in which it is to be formed, for here, where all building material and fuel must be imported and carried at great expense on to sections, each Proprietor of an allotment must incur an outlay for a few acres of grazing land which nothing short of the possession of half a square mile or 320 acres would justify. On this account, as well as in reference to the quality of the soil and opportunities of obtaining water, I am of the opinion that it will be necessary to take a block of land having a coast frontage of nearly 40 miles north from the Waiola and only six miles back from the coast, and of the Peninsular, such portion as would be contained within a line drawn straight from the entrance of Port Cooper to a part called Parake, about 6 miles from the Waiola, on the south side of the Peninsular.
There are three routes by land to Otago, one along the sea, a second through the centre of the Plain, generally through the marshes and Raupo, and a third on the west side of the plain, at the foot of the mountains, which may be formed as far as the river Waikato and there, on account of its depth, its course must be followed to the coast, where at a forest about 60 miles from hence, along shore, this latter route I propose adopting. Tuawaite has promised to provide me guides tomorrow morning with whom I return to Mr Deans house and thence across the plain to the West side. The "Deborah", wind permitting will sail and proceed to Waikawaiki and Otago, whence I hope my party, consisting of Dr Munroe, Messrs Wolhers & Wilkinson will find her in about 10 or 12 days.
If.....the extension of the settlement along the coast north of the Waimakaridi should appear to you to be objectionable, please communicate your wishes to me, addressed to the care of Mr Greenwood, as whence in the event of my return I would call immediately to inquire for letters, or at Akaroa which settlement I should like to visit if I return.
Frederick Tuckett.
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In this letter Tuckett shows that, although a Quaker, he was not above hiding the truth. Writing about the Deans he says he had no difficulty in finding their residence, whereas in his diary we learn that he became somewhat lost and had to spend the night out before finally gaining the dwelling. He also describes Port Copper (Lyttelton Harbour), the Waiola (now called the Estuary of the Avon and Heathcote Rivers) and the land around the Deans' residence (now Riccarton House) which most of the present day City of Christchurch, as well as listing his objections to the area as the proposed settlement. He ends the letter by describing the proposed route he intended to take whilst walking to Otago.
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F. T's Diary
April 9th.
Tuawaiki informed me, on coming on board in the morning, that he had only one boy whom he could send, and that six could not be obtained without taking them from the boats, of which they composed the crews. After a tedious talk, finding that I was not disposed to relinquish the overland journey, they at last pointed out three boys (apparently the most feeble and incapable) who should accompany me and these I enjoyed at 4/- per day (forward). I then reduced my baggage by one half and was about to leave the schooner when the owners of two of the lads demanded prepayment, and which when I had refused, they immediately left the vessel taking them away. Thus thwarted I was compelled to proceed by sea. I might, without guides, have walked south along shore, but from such a route I should have gained but little knowledge of the quality and character of the land. Sent a man immediately to Messrs Deans to inform Dr. Munroe who waited there my return.
Wednesday April 10th.
Mr. Creeds, Wesleyan and Mr Wohler, a Lutheran Missionary, hailed us from the shore this morning, they had landed on the morning of the 7th (Sunday), intending to walk to Port Levy on a visit to the Maoris, but had failed to accomplish their intention, having lost their way on the clouded summits of the hills, and had continued to wander to and fro, without food and exposed to inclement weather, for three days and nights, they were much exhausted, but the suffering and anxiety which they had endured, was of no further injury neither of them appeared to have caught cold, although long exposed to both cold and rain. Dr. Munroe returned accompanied by Mr. Deans. Unable to sail.
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Thursday April 11th.
Landed Mr. Deans at Mr. Greenwoods, found there Captain Richards of H. M. Brig Nutisea (the name of this ship was undecipherable) with several passengers. Sailed, later we saw the Brig at anchor in Pigeon Bay.
Friday April 12th.
Wind contrary, so we were unable to progress round Banks Peninsular.
Saturday April 13th.
Passed off Akaroa, with a fair light wind, spoke with an American Whaler, the Romulus of Mystic, as it passed us. We might have made a fine run south, but the Captain shortened sail at night. It would have been a gratification to me to have visited Akaroa, to have had an opportunity of seeing what progress had been made by the industry and enterprise of the French colonists, but I felt it more important to proceed without delay on my own mission or expedition, having been shortly, unexpectedly though unavoidably, detained longer than I had anticipated.
However fertile and sheltered may be some of the bays and wooded valleys of Banks Peninsular, the quantity of available land is so limited, and so difficult of access in a continued connection, that the district as a whole appears to me to be of no higher importance than as a locality adapted for fishermen and gardeners, or ornamental grounds for future Proprietors, who may hereafter acquire property as stock keepers on the more available and valuable land of the main plain. Port Levy and Pigeon Bay, as Harbours, are, it is evident, superior to Port Cooper, and that of Akaroa to either, but the increased expense and difficulty attending the construction of a road from either of them is conclusive in my opinion in justifying a preference for Port Cooper, as the only Port, excepting Peraki on the south side, from
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which the Plain is accessible. Each bad in particular and the District as a whole, it is of little moment which may be the best. The great Plain is not worth occupying in small sections, it would be absolute ruin to the occupier, however able and industrious. It should never be such divided into sections less than a square mile, and at a price not exceeding ten shillings per acre, it might be an attractive locality to persons of Property. On the north extremity of the Plain, beyond the River Waimakiridi, there is a great extent of Pine forest and the general growth indicates a better soil than exists to the south, if not accessible from Kai Kora (Kaikoura), it might be made so from Port Cooper by a ferry over the Waimakiridi, but as the river overflows the land to a great extent, and the best land is further north, the former is the preferable point of access, if practicable.
Sunday April 14th.
The wind was light and the weather thick, we stood in towards finding 12 fathoms of water near shore, however no landing possible for the heavy surf.
Monday April 15th.
No progress made during the day, we were at Latitude South. 39 degrees.
Tuesday April 16th.
Stood in towards finding the water discoloured for some miles off the outlet of some great River, probably the Waitaki, 10 fathom water.
Wednesday April 17th.
A log (meaning unsure, perhaps the ships log), the vessel was becalmed, and the sea very rough, we were tumbling about all day unable to sail.
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Thursday April 18th.
At a Reef off a head land, and believing that we were near Moeraki I landed in the Boat accompanied by Mr. Davison, Mr. Davison returned to the schooner with the Boat, and following a track, I soon arrived at a large native village, opposite to the Reef, between which place and the shore there is a wide and deep channel. From the village I walked on to the Bay, about 1 1/2 miles further north, at which place there is a whaling station conducted by Mr. J. Hughes, by whom I was hospitably entertained. From the spot where I landed the distance to his house is probably 3 miles, the head land, which I walked along was lofty and steep towards the shore, but level on the summit, the growth chiefly grass or bush, the most luxuriant which I have yet seen in New Zealand, perfectly rank. A vessel not exceeding 50 tons might I imagine lay in security in any weather within the South headland of this Bay, there is however but a very limited space in which there is shelter and unbroken waves.
Friday April 19th.
Mr. Hughes provided me with a guide, to show me the country, and I walked to the north Head land of the Bay, called the North Bluff, about 7 miles, and to the North Bluff river, the mouth of which is about 2 miles further north, going, went some miles inland up the course of the Kaui, and so forward until interrupted by the North Bluff River, following this towards the coast and passing over the North Bluff headland I then descended to the shore, returning along the beach. Nearly along the whole shore of the Bay the land terminates in an almost vertical cliff, showing in section its formation. Beneath a vegetable mould appears a yellowish loaming clay, 10 to 15 ft in depth, beneath this is a very deep bed of dark substance, probably a bituminous shale, saturated with water which flows freely, beneath the clay, on its surface and mixed with a large portion of spar-
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kling sand or mineral, which gives it great weight. For about 2 miles along the shore immense nodules of stone, pudding stone, some 10 ft in diameter almost as round as if they had been cast, lay on the beach and are thickly embedded in the earthy cliff, these modules are intersected with thick runs of spar, they are very similar to such as are found at Lyme and Weymouth, slabs from which are cut out and polished for tables. (These nodules are the famous and unique spherical Moeraki Boulders, now a tourist attraction). I observed a fine stream of water and a wood with abundance of timber, the red Pine or as it is here called the Black, at intervals of about a mile and a half or two miles throughout this district.
The land would be eligible for subdivision into small sections, but not exceeding probably three miles inland from the coast, the valleys excepted. Further inland the range of hills are lofty and steep, and their ascent most fatiguing from the dense growth of fern & root. There is every reason to believe what my guide assured me, that on the other side of the hills there was a very considerable extent of level land. Near the shore the highest land I found to be the richest affording a good level surface, not broken, but sloping gradually inland, well adapted for tillage or grazing, and not to be surpassed for orchards, and also replete with conveniences in regard the facility of procuring Timber woods and water, the only bad land is that on the lowest level, particularly near the North Bluff River, this in many places I observed to be stony on the surface and only produced grass, parched and in detached tufts, such as is the prevailing growth in the vicinity of Port Cooper on the dry land, here however such land was of limited extent. Looking northward from the North Bluff there appeared to be a preponderance of good land along shore, had Moeraki Bay been accessible to emigrant ships a better site for a settlement could hardly have been desired.
It is very difficult to obtain correct information, either from the Maoris or Europeans, either of distance or of names of
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rivers and districts. I hardly ever find two persons agree and both on this account and because my hearing is defective, though I have taken pains to obtain correct information, I am sensible that its accuracy is very uncertain, especially that of the nomenclatures which I may have adopted. My guide who had walked from Banks Peninsular to Moeraki, stated the distance from Moeraki to the Waitaki River to be about 38 miles, and that intermediate were 7 lesser rivers or streams, the little & big Kaui, the North Bluff, the Aldui, the Kakanui & the north and south Wairanui, at these, about 7 miles in extent of rough rich land which he distinguished as the Wairanui Plains, a great extent of level land on the Waitaki, the growth chiefly that of dry grass which grows in tufts. From the Waitaki to the Timaru 40 miles, thence to Orewenua and a native settlement 10 miles, to the Mukionuk, or big River 40 miles (entering a river the name of which he could not remember) to Tarmit 10 miles, to Hoashui 25 miles, total from Moeraki to Hoashui 155 miles. This man, and others of whom I made subsequent enquiries represent the land adjacent to the River Timaru as the most fertile on the line of coast. As population and capital increase, at some future date, each of the large rivers will probably be accessible with the aid of steam power and become the site of a prosperous settlement.
The European residents are chiefly employed in the whale fishery, but each appear to pay some attention to cultivation, they appear to abound in the means of a comfortable subsistence, each to possess a native wife or mistress, some of whom were of prepossessing appearance and their children especially. It is much to be deplored that they should grow up wholly uneducated and left destitute in the event of the death of the Father. Some provision might easily and justly be made for them, by securing to them, in right of the Mother, a home and sufficient land of good quality for their permanent maintenance, about 10 acres of good bush land for each child would not be too much, as the
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continued culture of potatoes must rapidly exhaust the best land. If the British Public, who contribute such large funds in aid of the Missions, would require in return, as a primary object, the formation of industrial schools their labours would be far more useful and need not be any the less pious.
Note. Hughes has grown wheat, erected a good Barn and milks two cows. He claims land but the claim was not investigated.
Saturday April 20th.
Left Moeraki accompanied by Mr. Hughes for Waikauirati (Waikouaiti? ). At the Maori village I hired a man to carry my bag, here as everywhere else the Maoris were inclined to talk, disinclined to work and unreasonable in their demands for remuneration, thanks to petticoat Government. When Hughes had failed to induce either of them to accompany us, a woman promptly persuaded her wavering man to go and once off he proved to be both willing and able.
Along the shore of the next Bay to Moeraki we found good walking on a firm beach, frequent streams and ponds on which Ducks were very numerous. The land low and rather marshy, not equal to the uplands. After walking about nine miles we came to a Fishery at a boat harbour, where a few families of natives were occupied in curing fish, they had obtained a large quantity, thence the land rises terminating in a cliff. Along shore, the soil is deep and rich, the subsoil a loamy clay, very similar to the good land north of Moeraki, but not affording such convenient supplies of Timber, Two or three miles further on we arrived at Matakaea, another fishery with a narrow entrance for boats between the rocks to the shore. There is a bed of coal exposed to view here, of much the same quality as that at the Motupippi, Massacre Bay (now Golden Bay), but not to be so easily worked, the strata are here much dislocated, the higher bed of coal about a foot thick, being vertical, that below high water mark horizon-
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tal but thin. I had come some miles out of the direct route to see this coal formation and was disappointed in finding it of little promise. A few families of Maoris residing here have cultivated the Flax & grass lands and obtained a fine crop of Potatoes. They urged us to remain there until the morning, stating that the flood tide would prevent our proceeding along shore, which is here very rocky, or detain us at a River, the Waieinu, which we must cross, and the dense rank growth equally opposed our progress if we went inland. However at my desire we pushed on as speedily as possible and, sometimes clambering and sometimes wading, we succeeded in getting past the rocks to the mouth of the River, following its bank inland for a mile or two, until it appeared fordable.
The valley of the Wairimui appears to extend 12 to 15 miles inland, its course about N. W. and from its head there is an easy pass to another valley, probably conducting to that of the Waitaki, the course of which going inland is nearly S. W. Should this conjecture of the rivers be verified a very large tract of land will be found here easily accessible. The river has a bar entrance, but can be entered with the flood by large boats, the valley does not exceed in width one mile, but it is fertile and beautiful, and affords the best natural pasture which I have yet seen in New Zealand, of course not surpassing the pasture land of England, but such as even a Somerset man would be satisfied with. (Whoever comes out to New Zealand with the expectation of obtaining land on which he can graze more head of cattle, cut larger crops of grass or of grain than in England will be disappointed). The hill land which we ascended south of the valley was also of particular good quality and affords, at convenient intervals, an ample supply of Timber. In one of these woods we camped for the night, a copious rain fell and the trees which were our only shelter soon dripped with water.
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Letters
To Col. Wm. Wakefield.
Deborah Schooner, Waikawaiki, April 21st 1844.
I wrote to you at Port Cooper but had no opportunity of forwarding the letter which with this I shall send by the Scotia.
I did not walk down the country from Port Cooper as I proposed, the natives could not be procured, or sufficient for the party, and when with difficulty I had obtained three only and made a proportionate reduction in my baggage, two of them were withdrawn by their supervisor or owner at the moment of starting.
We had a tedious passage south frustrated immensely by the indolence or excessive timidity of the Master, who is only well qualified to convey women & children from one lighthouse to another.
On Thursday the 18th I had my boat lowered and went into land about 6 miles distant, the master offering no assistance and evidently sneering with self complacency at our want of boatmanship. On landing I found a native path, sent the boat back to the schooner with instructions to proceed to Waikawaiki, following the path northward in less than two miles I arrived at the Native Settlement of Moeraki, and a mile or so further at the bay, which was very accessible to the schooner, and almost a sufficient harbour in any weather. John Hughes, farmer and whaler, gave me a welcome and good cheer. Friday I started early and walked north to the N. Bluff River, about 10 miles, making digressions into the interior. Saturday morning, accompanied by Hughes, I started for this place and reached Jones' Farm (about 4 miles from there) about noon, having pursued a longer route than ordinary to examine the coal which is visible on the coast at a point about intermediate to Moeraki and Waikawaiki, very similar to that at Massacre Bay, and quite as promising, no loose
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stone visible. In this immediate vicinity the land is very much broken, affording very little surface available for the plough, in this respect it is an exception to the 30 miles which I had previously travelled over, of which the highland presents much good surface, but it corresponds with all the district in affording to the highest summits soil of great fertility. Throughout my three days march I estimate the land as preferable in quality to that between the Waiola and Waimakaridi, and in respect of supplies of timber and bush particularly eligible. I have to examine Otago as a harbour and if sufficiently good (of which I have some doubts), I should prefer this as the site of the settlement compared with Port Cooper, but I expect to find more than one still superior, and Milford Sound is particularly specified as the most so.
Jones' schooner never lays here in a south east wind, and he weighed and ran twice since he arrived here this trip for Otago. I understand him to tell us at your house, that in three years only one gale had occurred which a vessel would not here ride out in perfect safety
You are aware that Major Richmond interdicted my making any survey until I had selected and purchased the site and that I apposed to this that it was absolutely necessary to survey certain harbours and roadsteads in order to be in a position to make a judicious selection, but that I would comply with his wishes so far as not to proceed with such preliminary and partial survey without consent of the natives, requesting him to qualify his instructions, if he had already communicated any, on this head to Mr Symonds, and to enjoin on Mr Symonds to promote the object of the expedition by assisting in obtaining the consent of the natives (to which he replied that I should find Mr Symonds, although young, efficient & a man of business etc), Mr Symonds declares that he has no discretionary powers and I find him a mere literalist, illiberal and narrow minded. I enclose a letter which I have just addressed to him since my return. It appears
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to me that my complaint had better be pursued and with it a claim for compensation. As a matter of courtesy, in the most courteous way that I was capable of, I informed Mr Symonds that I intended to walk from Port Cooper, and inquiring whether he would like to accompany me on which he informed me that he did not consider it to be any part of his duty to explore the country - subsequently he condescended to express some interest in the journey and an intention to be one of the party, but the resolution was very fleeting.
When I have made my selection I will write you officially, giving the grounds of preference.
Frederick Tuckett.
In this letter Tuckett is making it clear that he had discussed the absolute necessity, with the permission of the natives, of surveying harbours and roadsteads with Major Richmond and requested him to qualify his instructions to Symonds. It would appear that Richmond had not done this, as Tuckett's insistence on carrying out a harbour survey was the cause of Symonds deciding to leave the expedition and make his first return to Wellington.
All the letters that follow are concerned with the quarrel or "misunderstanding" between Tuckett and Symonds regarding the aims and purpose of the expedition.
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F. T's Diary
Sunday April 21st.
Starting early, and after walking four or five miles on the hill land, we descended to a valley, called by Mr. Jones that of Pleasant River, I should call it rather an unpleasant river, for one so muddy and foetid in its bed I have not seen in this country, and in respect of quality and extent, the land is far inferior to the valley of the Wairimui, which we crossed yesterday. We were obliged to make for the seashore and cross there, at the bar, to avoid the mud. We then ascended immediately on grassy hills of higher elevation and soon arrived at a Farm belonging to Mr. Jones, about four miles north of Waikauirati. The condition and produce of the farm was certainly not very encouraging, a poor crop of smutty wheat had been harvested, and on the ground was the shadow of a crop of turnips, but this I consider is rather a reflection on the management than on the land which is, I am confident, more eligible for occupation than is often to be found in New Zealand.
I was much pleased with the respectable appearance of the families occupying a group of cottages at the foot of the hill that descended to the shore of the Bay, one of the cottages, which I entered with my guide Mr. Hughes, was a pattern for cleanliness and order and I obtained a delicious draft of milk. These cotters, who have wives who are helpmates, cultivate land for themselves when they have no other profitable employment and they appear to obtain a very comfortable subsistence.
The low lands inland from the Bay, at Waikauirati north of the River, appeared to be for the most part sandy and swampy, but south of the River is a considerable extent of table land, partly bush, part flax of very good quality and surface.
Having arrived at the shore we found the schooner at anchor in the roadstead and I went on board.
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Letters
To Col. Wm. Wakefield. -- April 22nd 1844.
I enclose a communication from Mr Symonds, received this morning, by which you will perceive that he adheres to the letter of his instructions. Subsequently he has conversed with me on the subject and having denied what I distinctly declare to be that fact, that I informed him on two occasions that the surveys of the harbours would be made provided I could obtain the consent of the Proprietors, which should be communicated to him on this case, the same was obtained and communicated to him, as is here attested by my Surveyor Mr Barnicoat.
I regret exceedingly that the object of the expedition should be deferred or frustrated by this constriction, but I have no alternative but either to abandon the expedition and return, or pursue such means as are indispensable in order to enable me to form a comparative judgment of the eligibility of different places. If Mr Symonds leaves, which he informs me, rashly that he shall do, I propose proceeding with the expedition and must send to you as early as possible to inform you of the locality which may in my opinion be the most advantageous for the settlement. Mr Jones has obtained the consent of Kolak and a universal suffrage of Maoris to the proceeding and I have directed the survey to be made.
If I can procure native guides I shall walk from here to the Bluff. The "Deborah" will proceed to Otago tomorrow and remain there probably for five days, she will probably be a week working South to the Bluff and remain there a week.
Frederick Tuckett.
Postscript,
I hear that Mr Symonds has taken a passage for Wellington by the "Scotia", as it will be impossible for me to negotiate the
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purchase of the land, now his instrumentality after what has occurred, I must leave the difficult path of diplomacy in treating with Government officials to you.
If the land south of Otago is as good as it is at Moeraki I can state that I decidedly pick? the district to that of Port Cooper.
To Frederick Tuckett. -- Waicouwaitte, April 22nd 1844.
Pursuant to your request, on arrival here I procured from Mr Jones the consent of the natives together with his own, to the survey of this harbour, and signified the same, according to your desire to Mr Symons, but was deterred from proceeding to effect the survey in consequence of Mr Symonds reply, which was to this effect - "Do as you like - you are under Mr Tucketts directions but if such a survey is made I must leave the expedition & return to Wellington".
J. W. Barnicoat.
To J. J. Symonds. -- Waikawwaite, April 22nd 1844.
In reply to your second letter of the 22nd inst. I beg to state that I disclaim any intention of acting in opposition to the wishes of Richmond the Superintendent of the Southern District, or of causing any survey of lands to be made here, or elsewhere, prior to the acquisition of such lands, by purchase. Mr Barnicoat was instructed by me to ask permission of the most competent, and influential proprietors here, to make a survey of the port and roadstead, and to acquaint you, in the event of his obtaining such permission, and then to execute such a survey. He assured me that he strictly fulfilled these instructions, but that he was de-
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terred from proceeding to execute a survey by your expression of unqualified disapprobation of such proceeding, and your avowed determination to withdraw from the Expedition (for the selection and acquisition of a District for the future Settlement of New Edinburgh) in the event of his proceeding to execute the survey already referred to. As it will be my indispensable duty to give him similar instructions in reference to the Port of "Otago", and all other ports which I may successively visit, in the prosecution of the object of my present expedition, I can only express my sincere regret that our duties, respectively, should be so incompatible as to render it necessary for you to withdraw the further sanction of your presence.
Frederick Tuckett.
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F. T's Diary
Tuesday April 23rd.
Having decided to leave the expedition Mr. Symonds PM sailed per the "Scotia" for Wellington. The survey completed I sent the schooner to Otago having first engaged as Pilot for the future, Edwin Palmer, recommended to me as a capable man intimately acquainted with the southeast, south and west coast.
Landed and lodged at Mr. Watkins WM, (the initials after Watkins name appear to stand for Wesleyan Minister) through whose kind assistance I engaged three reluctant natives to accompany me to Otago, in order to judge of the practicality of forming a road inland to that Harbour. I have omitted to mention that from Moeraki to this place the stalks and leaves of the Potatoes, wherever cultivated, were as verdant as at Midsummer. The distance of the snowy mountains west of these parts of the Island, more than compensates in respect of climate for its southern latitude, whilst in superiority of soils it possesses a splendid advantage over most the districts of available land on the Island adjacent to Cook's Straits.
Wednesday and Thursday April 24 & 25th.
Walking inland from Waikauirati on the south side of the river there is a considerable quantity of good elevated land, covered with grass, fern & flax, nearer the coast is a Forest, which extends along the shore to Otago. On the summits of the hills the surface is almost covered with large blocks of stone (a species of tufa rocks), the soil beneath them must be fertile, for the growth completely covers them, the stones would be easily removed and prove serviceable for fencing and building.
Heading the source of the River and crossing the ridge, the land falling Southeast is more broken, the waters are discharged at the south extremity of the next bay, in the angle
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formed by the projection of Otago Peninsular. Here three streams have their outlet, the Totara, the Waipiti and the Waitati, the Totara is accessible to a schooner, the land on its bank available, the course of the Waitati appeared to be from S. W., in the direction of the head of Tiaria (Taieri?), its waters collected from the Whakaori a mountain on the South side, and a vast extent of hill land, its banks are wooded, the level land limited in extent. If a road is formed from Otago to Waikauirati it will cross this stream near the mouth. On crossing it we immediately ascended a long grassy slope affording a gradual ascent to the summit ridge, further inland the land attains a mountainous elevation, the head of which the natives name the Kapukitaumahaka, along the opposite slope of which they have a track to the head of the Tiaria valley. From the point to which we ascended, a forest intervenes to the shore of Otago harbour. The Maoris usually descend to a little Bay and creek on the north shore of the Peninsular where they have a settlement called Purakourui. There is a good harbour for small vessels and some very fine sections of land, chiefly wooded, might be surveyed there, if the Maoris will part with it. They then proceed to Otago along shore, a very circuitous and stony route, impracticable for a road.
My guides were not at all disposed to attempt a new route, although it had been fully explained to them, it was my desire to strike the head of the harbour and my object to ascertain the practicability of forming a road inland, which along shore was obviously impracticable, I therefore struck into the forest, in spite of all objections, and they reluctantly followed. For the first two hours I almost despaired of achieving my purpose, so impracticable was the forest with its labyrinths of Briars and Supple Jack, fallen trees and narrow gullies also, continually interrupting my progress, however the Maoris spurred me on by continually twittering on with the inquiry of "where is the road now, Maoris know no road here, this is Tuckett's road". Frequently I could only get through the briars by cutting a way with my knife, Nature be thanked there is only one
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species of Briar to punish invading man in the woods of New Zealand, but that one scratches cruelly. I crossed the summit ridge and found the ground easier and obtained frequent glimpses of the harbour, night having drawn in before we could gain the shore, and we were obliged to bivouac a second night in the Bush.
Friday morning April 26th.
We descended to the water side exactly opposite to the schooner, which was anchored as I had desired nearly at the head of the outer or lower harbour. I am satisfied that a cart road is practicable from Waikauirati, across the river Waitati and ascending the hills to the edge of the forest, and although I encountered so many impediments walking for the first time, as in a labyrinth, yet I have no doubt, following a more circuitous route nearer to the summit ridge, the road may be made to a central point on Otago harbour. The distance not exceeding 16 miles, although the journey occupied me, with the greatest exertion, more than two days, owing to the growth on the land, one thing is certain, that nowhere does the elevation of the hills prohibit the formation of a cart road, but from the head of the Harbour I expect to find a less difficult line avoiding the Forest.
I wished to retain two of the Maoris to accompany me, in a few days, south to Molineux (Port Molyneux, by the Clutha River), but they had had enough of it and declined going further, the older of the three, named Kirikiouka, was a powerful man, and what is better, patient and more faithful than Maoris ordinarily prove. Messrs Barnicoat & Davison proceeding with the Survey of the Harbour, after obtaining consent of the principle Maori, Karitai was absent gone to Tiaria.
Saturday April 27th.
Landed at the head of the inner or upper harbour, the length of which must be full 7 miles, that of the lower about 6.
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On either side the forest continues unbroken, good Timber is abundant, the soil, notwithstanding that the surface is often rocky and stony, appears to be fertile, the rock being probably a species of basalt. There is certainly more available and eligible land on the shores of this vast inland sea than on any portion of Banks Peninsular, and in respect of the facility of constructing a road it possesses a corresponding superiority. But if in this respect comparatively better, it yet seems so formidable that I shall leave Otago and proceed south in the hope of finding as good a District as I have seen north of this, that can be connected with its Port with far less expenditure of the Funds for Publick Works than will be necessary here.
A space of less than quarter of a mile intervenes at the Head of the Harbour between it and the Ocean shore, here for the space of 2 miles there is water frontage to the Harbour of unwooded land rising gently inland. Landing I followed the native track for about 2 miles towards Tiaria and then returned to the Boat, at this point, had I kept further inland and always on the grass land skirting the forest, I should have arrived from Waikairati. It offers an ornamental and commodious site for a Town, one most suitable in every respect, save the distance from the deep water of the Lower Harbour, the channel throughout is on the West side, and generally narrow, and a fathom and a half of water would be found to within two miles of the extremity of the Harbour. Two thirds of the space covered by the flood is left dry at the ebb. Whilst I was there the surface of the water was almost unruffled and no swell entered from the ocean, where the entrance is narrow. The schooner lay at anchor without motion.
Sunday April 28th.
I went to the mouth of the Harbour, visited the natives on either side and engaged three to accompany me to Molineux.
A person named Harwood, an agent of Mr. Waller of Sidney (Sydney? ) conducts a store and Tavern, he has a good
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house and a flowery garden. There are nearly twenty other Europeans residing here, most of whom have enclosures of cultivated land, I have not seen elsewhere in N. Zealand such fine Potatoes, supposing that I saw only a picked sample, they excelled all other picked samples. If any claim has been advanced by any of these squatters, none has been approved by the Land Commissioners, yet they will consider themselves aggrieved if ejected from their dwellings without compensation, whilst on the other hand, if the land is purchased for New Edinburgh, then this locality will probably be a portion of the Town. However that is the concern of the Government who must deliver the Land which they permit us to purchase only through them. A Danish Whaler lay here, it came in yesterday, the Captain intends to proceed to Akaroa or Port Cooper, yet the whales are numerous about here, whilst at Waikauirati each morning one or more was pursued by the boats and the day that I left one was captured.
Monday April 29th.
The morning wet. I gave directions for the schooner to proceed to Molineux as soon as the survey of the lower harbour was completed. In the evening I landed at the head of the Harbour and found there a wet night with very poor shelter. The Maoris discouraged and were predicting much rain. One of them was a native of Taranaki (in the North Island), another of Puerua and the other one of Otago.
Tuesday April 30th.
The ground was white with hoar frost, but the sun rose with warmth and a brilliant day succeeded. Walking over the hills towards the head of the Tiaria, with the Kapukitaumahaka on our right to the north, the first two miles the ascent is easy and the land of tolerable quality, but bearing more fern, flax and root than grass, the soil pretty stiff but impoverished by frequent fires.
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I estimate the distance to the Tiaria valley as about 6 miles, of which I would survey, in situ, the first and last 2 miles and omited the intermediate 2 miles over the summit. From near the Tiaria valley a road might be formed nearer the coast past the conspicuous peaked mountain called the Saddleback, on the north side, to the centre of the Tiaria Plain.
The first sight of the Plain was very prepossessing as we approached nearer, it was apparent that much of it was subject to constant irrigation. I estimate its extent as equal to 12 miles by 3 1/2, the land at the head was very rich and free from swamp, and there appeared a continued line of high rich ground along the S. West side of the Plain & the direct course to Molineux. This course I wished to pursue, but encumbered by Maori guides, we unfortunately walked down the N. E. side of the Plain at the foot of the Saddleback mountain, my guides expecting to find other natives of whom they might procure a canoe to convey us down the Plain (river), and across to the west side, landing at a point from where there is a beaten track to Molineux. On the East side there is one large wood of Pine Timber and two or three smaller ones, to the further of which we walked and then slept there for the night. The Saddleback mountain is also wooded to the summit all the way from the ascent from the Plain, it is a great Pig cover. Guides much disappointed at not finding any Maori huts in either wood. On the West side opposite to this wood there is another one of great extent.
Wednesday May 1st.
Having found the grass under water for some distance the previous afternoon (the water flowing), today we kept along the low hills on the East side of the Plain, over which side also we presently observed the course of the River Tiaria (River Taieri), here it is a considerable river, deep and tranquil, not saline, but rising and falling with the Tide, and would be well adapted for inland navigation.
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The Maoris were insufferably tedious, I found that they were ignorant of the way, and discouraged, being disappointed of procuring a canoe, we pursued a fatiguing walk over hilly and broken ground, without any track, till twilight when we camped in a wood on the East Bank of the River.
Thursday May 2nd.
About half an hours walk through this wood and beyond on grass land at the skirt of another wood, we arrived at a Maori settlement, two or three decent huts made of Totara bark, and as many raised stages for Potatoe stores, still we found no inhabitants, nor canoes. From here our course was by a branch of the Tiaria to a vast lake on the West side, unable to pursue this, we were reluctantly compelled to follow the River Tiaria to the coast, from hence in a course about East nearly at a right angle to that of the Plain, from here to the mouth it is shut in on either side by steep hills, these rent asunder, perhaps by volcanic action, or cleft by constant denudation, have offered a passage to the waters that once accumulated in the vast haven of the Tiaria. Another most fatiguing walk, wind and rain bitterly cold, and the growth frequently difficult to penetrate, impossible to proceed at the rate of a mile per hour. From the last ascent we joyfully gained sight of the seashore and the Whaling station on an Island at the mouth of the Tiaria, we descended on a gentle slope of fine stony land, the Maori fellows lagging behind and sulky, their legs and feet rather sore. Having made fires and discharged a gun on the beach to attract attention, a man came from the Island and conversed across the water with our party, but gave us cold comfort in the assurance that a boat would come for us in the morning. A short distance up the River was a Maori dwelling and a canoe on the bank, one woman only there, who would not or could not launch the canoe. Grumbling all night on the beach.
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Friday May 3rd.
One of the Whalers came from the Island along the sandbank opposite to us, and having informed him of the reason of my being there, he promised that a boat should be sent as soon as the Tide would permit to carry us across. Early in the afternoon the boat came in which we eventually crossed. The Maoris then inquired where I was going, and on my replying to Molineux, they refused to proceed, I reproached the Taranaki native, Thomas, the Maori minister at Otago with his faithlessness, but to no purpose, and I then intimated that they were not entitled to payment, on which they walked away in great dudgeon but leaving all the baggage. Meanwhile the boat which had gone up the river for firewood returned and the headsman on hearing of the strike offered to take us to the Island and pressed me to go, which I accordingly did.
They were busy cutting in a captured whale of large size. Mr. Chasland received us with hospitality, his wife, a sister of Tiroa, is one of the few Maori women that I have seen capable of being a helpmate to a civilised man, and they keep a very comfortable fireside, not the less so from the bleak barrenness which surrounds their dwelling, nowhere perhaps do 20 men reside on a spot so comfortless as this naked inaccessible isle, sometimes at low water there is a dry bank to the mainland, at other times the entire bank has shifted and the mouth of the river has taken its place, the waves break to and fro so much that it seems impossible to get across without being swamped.
Saturday & Sunday May 4 & 5th.
Paid the Maoris, on their demand, up to the present time, on condition of their completing their engagement, then accompanied by another, a competent guide, Teraki, started for Molineux, encouraged by the assurance of Mr. Chasland that it was only a good days walk along shore, and that I should easily get there to breakfast on Sunday morning. After the first three
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miles of sand beach the shore became very rocky, then five or six miles from the Tiaria mouth is an inlet which, with the flood tide, affords a convenient harbour for large boats, the land slopes generally gently towards the shore terminating in a very low cliff. A frontage of good land is to be obtained along shore and about two miles inland, a stream of water every half mile or more frequent, on the course of one is some extent of wood affording convenient supply for fuel and fencing, but scarcely any timber, the prevailing growth is Flax, Fern, Root and grass, on it a solitary rock of remarkable appearance called Capt. Cook's Head.
About noon on Sunday we reached a fine sand beach, behind which there is a wide bank of level surface encumbered with little vegetation, over which we had good walking. This flat terminates on the banks of a river into which the tide flows, but over a bar which obstructs the entrance of boats. I observed here the tracks of a bullock and a pig. Crossing this river, the (F. T. leaves a space in the diary at this point, intending to insert the river's name later, it could possibly be the Akatore), at the bar, we had for a few miles further good walking along a firm beach, crossing another fine stream (possibly the Toko), on the banks of which the land appeared to be of good quality, precipitous cliffs succeeded at the termination of the beach, it being high water we were obliged to mount and walk on the high land. Thence we could see Molineux Bay and the rocky islands called the Nuggets. A fine platform of level deep lands extends back from the face of these cliffs, similar in its growth and formation to the best land at Moeraki, excepting that here the deep subsoil of loamy clay is based on a rock of sandstone, some places on a conglomerate quartz and not, as at Moeraki on a bituminous shale. It was laborious walking along this rich cliff land, which extends to the River Matau or Molineux (Clutha River), as soon therefore as the recession of the cliffs from the sea shore permitted we descended to the beach and again stopped for the night, still many hours walk from the Matau.
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I made an excellent supper of Roast Ducks which the Maoris basted carefully catching the dripping fat on feathers and dressing the birds constantly, but licking off the surplus after each stroke by drawing the feathers between their lips, this part of the process was not gratifying.
Monday May 6th.
As we proceeded, about the time of low water, along shore I was gratified to observe very abundant large pieces of drift coal of good quality, still no bed was visible in the face of the cliff, further on the beach became again rocky and quantities of coal were lodged between the rocks and soon appeared in view a black cliff, I felt certain it must be a vast formation of coal, although M. Jones at Waikauirati (Waikouaiti) had declared that there was no other coal discovered along the coast but the insignificant appearance which I had examined at Matakaea. Approaching this cliff I found it to be a mass of coal for about 100 yards length, in thickness from 12 to 20 feet, as seen in the face of the cliff above the sand, and to what depth it exists beneath the sand I could not ascertain, I should suppose from the appearance of coal adjacent, to the depth of low water. The beach is not accessible on account of the heavy swell and great surf. The coal must therefore be worked inland and the bed will be no doubt discovered near the bank of the Matau River, which in a direct line inland is probably not more than 4 or 5 miles distant.
My next discovery proceeding along shore was a carcass of a fine young whale recently stranded and quite fresh, of which I took possession by cutting out a few steaks for my hungry dog, it measured upwards of 50 feet in length.
Within the Nuggets I was glad to observe the schooner at anchor, for this overland journey having occupied six days instead of three or four as I had expected, and then not arriving until the seventh, I was afraid that she might have left to return to
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Otago. We fired the guns along shore, which was observed by Mr. Wiltshire, and when we reached the bank of the Matau his boat was coming across the river to convey us over.
The Matau is a River which even an American would not contemn, its course inland is so distant that I cannot pretend to estimate the distance. The hills west of its course are certainly 20 miles from the shore and no snowy mountains are visible, Mr. Wiltshire informed me subsequently that he had ascended it in a Boat for at least 50 miles, and that it was still navigable for a long boat, also that many navigable creeks unite with it, by one of which a boat may be taken to a lagoon, called Kai Tangata, and then by a narrow channel to another lagoon, called Raki-toto, from whence the distance to the Tiaria valley does not exceed six miles.
Mr. Wiltshire is an agent of a Mr. Jones of Sidney, and has the care of a few head of cattle, he landed 4 or 5 years ago and beyond erecting a good dwelling house, neither he nor his neighbour Mr. Russell appear to have made much progress. This Mr. Jones pretends to a claim for land here preposterous in extent, it was not submitted to Col Godfreys investigation (?of the Land Commision), Russell states that he has purchased land here of Jones. They appeared to be ill supplied with the comforts and necessaries of life. This Mr. Wiltshire is well known by some of my relations, and I had become acquainted with him and pleased with a brief intercourse which occurred a few weeks previous to his embarkation at Bristol for Sidney, but I did not recognise him, and had he not alluded to the circumstance I should have left Molineux without an idea of having ever seen him before.
Tuesday May 7th.
Paid my Maori guides, or rather followers and engaged two other Maoris, resident at Molineux, to accompany me inland to Tutu Rau, a district separated from Molineux Plain only by low grassy hills and said to present a very extensive District of
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level and good land. From thence I was to proceed along the S. W. bank of the Totui River to its mouth, an uninterrupted succession, they say of rich land on the banks of a navigable River. Impossible as I should have thought this to be whilst surveying lands in the Settlement of Nelson, it was almost credible after seeing the Plain of the Matau from the mouth of the Totui. I was to walk along shore to the Bluff (near Invercargill) and thence to the New River (Oreti River, Invercargill), the journey to the Bluff, they assured me would be accomplished easily in eight days. On starting I should have gone some miles up a south western branch of the Matau and across the lowest land of the Plain to rising ground, which would have afforded me an opportunity of estimating the extent of swamp land and the facility of draining it. For providing that there is a sufficient fall area that the earth will nearly sustain a mans weight in walking without us sinking, I consider that the land in New Zealand can hardly be too wet in its natural state. At the first rise of this Plain, as I looked down upon its extent, I observed a continual line of dry land, indicated by the number of Te trees and the frequent succession of Pine groves.
The Captain of the Schooner and the Pilot examined at my desire the entrance of the Matau, it has but a narrow channel and a bad bar adjacent, so that the water breaks across although this is more than two fathoms at low water, and five fathoms in a beautiful basin within. I believe that the schooner might have entered and with the aid of a steamer a much larger vessel. To the owner of a vessel it may not be very agreeable to be the pioneer, but time will verify my present opinion.
Messrs Barnicoat & Davison engaged, with permission of the resident Maoris, on surveying the roadstead and mouth of the River, they remained on shore and I returned on board to complete my arrangements for another journey overland. During the night a swell set in from the north east, and the Master, fearing a gale of wind might ensue, heaved anchor and stood out.
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The principal Maori resident is an aged woman named Toki, the widow of Tahui, formerly chief of Kurreroa, the native name of Molineux Bay, she is a relation (aunt) of Tuawaiki, who does nothing to make the remainder of their existence comfortable, though he can well afford to do so. I sent her a half cwt of sugar, a blanket and a shirt. Her daughter Makariri protects Mr. Wiltshire, they, with an old man Toweras and three younger men, Raki Raki, Mirihou and Tahatu, are the only resident natives, as far as I could ascertain, excepting Te Raki and his family who sometimes reside here, but usually on the Tiaria. The native name of the S. E. point of Kurreroa Bay, opposite the Nuggets is Tuwata. The rivers Matau and a branch called Te Koau, contains between them an Island called Jacks Island, said to be 25 miles in length and about one mile in breadth.
Wednesday May 8th.
Sailing southward along shore, passing Catlin Bay (next to Molineux) where there is a boat harbour and there is said to be coal, but rocks which are precipitous and high appear to be of Basalt, their surface much covered with a white lichen. I am informed that the land at Catlin Bay has a claim with the Land Commission. Some 10 or 12 miles from the Nuggets is Long Point or the South East Cape, about 18 miles further, bearing S. W. by S. is another prominent Point called Chaslands Mistake, intermediate is the South Headland of Tautuku Bay, at which there is a whaling station managed by Palmer, a brother of our Pilot, north of it another small Bay into which the River Tapuki flows, off the Point which separates these two minor bays is an Island well stocked with rabbits.
The next Point, S. W. of Chaslands is called the Brothers, distinguished by three rugged and detached rocks, from thereon it is about 8 miles to the Harbour of Waikauwa (Waikawa on Porpoise Bay) (or Sineus River), the entrance to
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which is narrow and shut out from view by the high land as seen when passing along shore from the north. With a southerly wind, or from S. East to West, a vessel may enter, the passage is narrow with a sudden turn and close along the rocky shore on the East side. There is a Reef projecting from the Southern Headland, within which is sheltered beach for landing boats, about 2 miles below the mouth of the Harbour. A large Rock, covered at high water, is situated in a line with the extremity of the reef and the opposite rocky headland, about intermediate, on which the waves break with great violence. It looks formidable to attempt to enter, but braving it as I subsequently did, I found a very sufficient channel on either side of this rock. The wind not being favourable for the schooner to enter this evening I proposed going in with my boat in the morning, the schooner to return, with the first winds to Molineux to bring the Surveyors to the Waikauwa. The Waikauwa is supposed to be about intermediate between the Nuggets and the Bluff Harbour, our Pilot Palmer, who has often run his boat along this shore, noting the time it occupied, estimates the distance either way at 30 miles.
Thursday May 9th.
Morning. The Schooner was almost out of sight of land, having stood off shore during the entire night, taking the chance of having a favourable wind to return in the morning (a very safe and comfortable system when Time is of no consideration), having also been set north by the current and also having a light southerly wind. I landed with the Pilot at Tautuku, retaining my boat, the schooner proceeding to Molineux with instructions to return to Waikauwa with Messrs Barnicoat and Davison.
Friday May 10th.
I made an excursion to the adjoining Bay, Tapuki, but was unable to enter the River, the water being very shoal at the
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entrance and the ground rocky, so I walked up the bed of the River about two miles and obtained a view inland to the head of the valley, 8 or 10 miles in a course nearly West. The river at Tautuku has about the same course and source. The Ridge which separates them is low and of easy elevation. A block of Land with a frontage of 4 miles along shore would embrace the two rivers, and inland, West, about 8 or 10 miles, of which more than half would be very eligible for subdivision into Sections, also one unbroken Forest of Timber trees, of which Rimu, Totara and Rata are the prevailing species, all indicating a rather sandy and ferruginous soil. The mass of Rock along shore appears to be basalt, it has a very rectangular cleavage and very level beds, and is easily to be drawn (quarried) in blocks of about 1 foot in thickness, in some places there is above this a ferruginous sandstone, where this occurs, and I imagine it prevails inland, the soil is not so good. Tautuku is a good roadstead and would afford a Tide harbour for a vessel not drawing more than a fathom water.
The British residents have erected some good houses and cultivated a considerable extent of land. Palmer has grown Wheat and Barley as well as Potatoes and has plenty of fine fowls and ducks and some goats. He is, I believe the only resident who has purchased land of the Native Proprietors, but his claim was not submitted to the Commissioners for investigation. He has a Maori wife of very prepossessing appearance and manners, the mother of two or three fine children, on which account alone, independent of any consideration for his enterprise and industry, a sufficient estate ought to be secured for them. A number of whales had been seen and pursued, but as yet without success, there were two boats manned and a third would be ready shortly. Returning from Tapuki we landed on the Island and with the assistance of a capital Beagle caught six rabbits alive and uninjured. There was only one native man (deformed in his feet) here, a number of women, all kept by or keeping white men, as
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they are called, there is a young man and his sister, the children of an Englishman, deceased, by a Maori woman, they are grown up, the former about 18, very tall and good looking. They are the proprietors of a portion of land at Otago, in their mothers right, which is admitted by the other natives.
Palmer informs me that he once ascended the Matau River in a boat, for a distance, he imagines, equal to 50 miles in a straight course (not estimated by that of the river) and he was still, he believes, very far from its head. I was pleased with Tautuku, it is not merely extremely rich and picturesque in scenery, but very productive. I have no doubt but that a road might be formed up the valley and over the summit ridge to the unwooded Plain of the Tuturau and ToToi.
Saturday May 11th.
Rose before daybreak and left in my boat for Waikauwa, the schooner being just in sight going apparently south east, as usual giving the land a wide berth, I could not communicate with her. It was nearly a calm along shore. The flood tide was against us for 3 or 4 hours, so we had to pull nearly the whole distance, 14 miles, and it occupied nearly 6 hours. Had we started an hour later we should have failed to get into the Harbour, as it was for the last three miles, from the Brothers on, we could scarcely move ahead against the squalls of wind, which quickly raised a dangerous sea. My Boat, although shallow and slight, has proved very buoyant. On the shore we slanted the boat sail from the face of a projecting cliff and, with this shelter, kept ourselves dry during a wet night.
Sunday May 12th.
The schooner was in sight passing near the Brothers, but standing out, we lit a fire on the hill to attract attention. In the afternoon we went to the S. West headland, saw the schooner standing south and almost out of sight.
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Monday May 13th.
As the schooner out of sight, I left the Pilot to keep a look out for her, and went up the Harbour in the Boat. The Tide overflows a space of 4 or 5 miles by 2 1/2, the reflux from which surface has sufficient velocity to keep a clear channel along shore. Like Otago it is a fine place for spearing soles or Opotiki (the best of Life), the land on either side of the Harbour, inland, is a Forest, the Timber larger than at Taupuki, the exterior headlands are grassy, most probably cleared by Whalers for the purpose of keeping a look out from on them. The direction of the harbour and river at its head, inland, was N. N. W. or nearly north and it appeared to strike the heads of the Tautuku and Taupuki valleys, the course of which is West. The River is navigable for a mile or so above the harbour, here there was a fall of about 6 feet, up this we dragged the boat and successively in the next two miles, up 3 other falls and 4 rapids. Having thus reached an open narrow plain we landed and walked to the summit of the ridge, which bounded the valley on the N. W., hoping to get sight of an extensive Plain, but were disappointed, the descent on the other side was to a similar valley, at the head of which other ridges interrupted the view. There were traces from the river which we had ascended, on the course of which I walked, of recent fires, which confirmed my opinion that in that direction was an easy route frequented by the natives to Tuturau. I was afterwards informed that in the summer, when the waters are low, the Maoris frequent the valley to catch a small species of eel, which they obtain in great numbers, they say that these eels ascend the falls unitedly, in a train, intertwining with each other. This is the locality for wonderful tales of wonderful beings, the Maoris declare that there are hairy giants who inhabit a mountain near these valleys, they call them Miroroi and have a great dread of them. We were very anxious to procure a specimen and quite willing to hazard the capture, thinking it would be a fine spree, other resources failing, to return to England with.
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A road may be easily formed on the west bank of the harbour and river throughout the entire length of the valley. Beyond the bush land, that which is called grass land, chiefly produces a very cutting wiry species, very similar to that which in swamps we call trio grass (the meaning of the words describing this plant are uncertain, so Tuckett's nomenclature has been retained), but without the stem or trunk on which the former is elevated above the water surface, these plumes of grass, on this dry land, on burning diffuse a fragrant & aromatic odour, but as a food for cattle they are valueless.
Tuesday May 14th.
Descended the stream and with care prevented the boat from any injury, but it was bitterly cold wading in the water. I was disappointed at not finding the schooner in Harbour, and at learning from the Pilot that she was not in sight. I have not the least doubt but that there was a desire not to be brought into the Harbour, and thus I lost an opportunity of making a survey of one, which is comparatively unknown, sufficiently safe and commodious when known, and in many respects similar to the Port of Nelson.
Wednesday May 15th.
Unable to loiter about waiting for the schooner I proceeded in the Boat intending to enter and proceed up the River Totoi (Mataura is I believe the proper name) to Tuturau, or as far as might be practical, unfortunately on the way we fell in with the incapable schooner and went on board, requesting to be put in the boat again as soon as the schooner had run in as near as sounding would permit. Then came some obstacle or hindrance which prevented its being accomplished by daylight, and the night closed in, so the usual safe course was adapted and in the morning we were not quite as near the Chatham Islands as to the mouth of the Mataura. Unless
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you sail in a vessel owned by ones employers, an explorer had much better visit the coast in a large sealing boat of 30 or 35 ft in length, sometimes he would be detained longer than he would desire at one place waiting for favourable wind or weather, but whilst there he might pursue a more minute or extended examination of the interior, which would be a far less hindrance to the objects of the expedition than being continually carried out to sea in another persons vessel to avoid all dangers and interruption of sleep.
Thursday May 16th.
Bad weather. As we were knocking about to no purpose, I desired the Pilot to take the schooner to Raubouki (Ruapuke Island) if he could not make the Mataura
Friday May 17th.
Lay off Raubouki, landed Mr. Wohlers, the Lutheran Missionary. Sailed to the New River and lay off its mouth.
Saturday May 18th.
Entered the New River, the Orate (Oreti River, Invercargill), with the Tide and a light breeze, soundings very good generally above 5 fathoms and only once, and for a moment, a 1/4 less than 4. A great sand bank to the West of the channel breaks the force of the waves, and forms the Harbour. On the East shore the land slopes gently affording abundance of good building ground. Messrs Barnicoat & Davison commenced the survey with the consent of Kaupatati, Koroua and Kapi, the only Maoris seen here, of whom one only lives here usually.
Sunday May 19th.
Walked with Palmer from the New River to the Bluff Harbour, about 8 miles. A narrow neck of low swampy land, about a mile in breadth, intervenes between the inner waters of the two
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Harbours. Stopped at the house of Mr. Power (alias Spencer) by whom we were hospitably entertained, he has made three claims to land here, which are approved of by the Commissioners, one of them to an island at the head of the deep water channel, the other two adjoining each other on the S. W. shore of the Harbour. Mr. I. Mc Gibbon claims 72 acres east and Stirling the remainder, including the point at the S. East headland, the Whaling station. Palmer has a large claim also, approx west of Spencer's, extending nearly to the neck, thus the only eligible Town site as a sea Port is already in their possession. From the neck N. W. to the head of the Harbour towards that of the New River, the land is finely Timbered, but the Frontage is towards shoal water.
I invited these Proprietors to communicate to me in writing the terms on which they would dispose of their claims, which they promised to do, and seemed fully to appreciate the advantage which would attend the formation of a Settlement here, and to be disposed to promote it by a fair and liberal arrangement on their part. Mr. Stirling & Mr. Howel of Jacobs River are whaling this season in concert or their own account, each has a schooner and a shore party, both schooners were then in the Bluff Harbour, they had just taken and cut in a fine whale and when I arrived were busily employed landing the blubber to be dried out.
There are two fine channels into the Bluff, one from the N. E., the other from the S. E., separated by a central sand bank, the harbour is therefore more accessible than that of New River. The Whaling station is very convenient and a particularly pleasant site for a residence.
Monday May 20th.
Being provided by Mr. Spencer with a boat and Maori, we went up with the flood the N. N. E. branch of the Harbour, which extends 7 miles inland towards the Mataura, it was extremely cold, the mountainous parts of Stewarts Island, and the
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distant mountains in the West were covered with deep snow which had fallen in the night. On landing I walked about two miles further inland, until stopped by a deep and sluggish stream, which prevented my entering the wood land beyond it, about a mile distant. The greater portion of that which I walked over was a bed of excellent & deep peat, I dug it out, two spits depth and then thrust the spade downwards to the handle without touching gravel. Between the tide way and the sea shore there only intervenes an immense bank of quartz gravel in its early days of vegetation, with little accumulation of vegetable mould, on the West side inland the surface earth was much deeper, but everywhere beneath a bed of quartz gravel. The peat bed, lower in surface, separates the gravel from the higher bush land, grass on the west side was abundant and tracks of cattle numerous, but with little exception the soil is not sufficiently deep for tillage, deep cushions of moss are spread over much of the surface. Returned to Spencers discouraged by what I had seen this day. It was as much as one could do to get back, it blew so hard from the South, but already wet and cold, to be out all night was trying and persevering, though in the dark, we at last succeeded.
Tuesday May 21st.
A Maori crew of whalers, under a Scotch (Scottish) headsman, left the schooner to walk to their shore station west of Jacobs River, we accompanied them and staid at the New River that afternoon.
Wednesday May 22nd.
Blowing hard from S. W. Left in my boat intending to proceed by the principal and N. W. branch of the River Oreti, within land, to a point where but a narrow space intervenes between it and the beach, about half way to Jacobs River, but in the first bend of the River, in which we had to encounter a
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head wind, we found it in vain to contend against it, even with a whaling crew. We therefore landed, hauled the boat up under shelter of a sand hill and lashed it down on the steer oar, and then crossed to the Beach, the sand and hail driving plentifully. The Maoris went ahead for some hours merrily, but after a while they dropped off, all of them, not being able to keep up the pace and the Scotchman and I went on and that scarcely with daylight. Two men belonging to the little schooner chartered by Dr. Selwyn came across for us and kindly returned for Palmer and others of the drenched crew, but some of them did not arrive until morning. Mr Howel not being at home, I was entertained at the house of his Father in Law, George Stephens, whose daughter is the wife of the headsman of the schooner. I never valued more the shelter of a good Roof than I did this morning.
Mrs. Howel's father, Stephens is a Sussex agricultural labourer, a worthy man of the right stamp such as are not often induced to leave their fatherland, he and his family might have had a free passage as emigrants to New Zealand, but he was afraid of the natives, so he entered into an engagement to work for a Gentleman going to Australia, who paid their passage, and having worked out the amount of the passage within £20 and then paid that in cash, he proceeded to Jacobs River by the desire of his son in law, who from the circumstances of a plough boy has attained to the possession of a schooner and a herd of cattle. Howel has a very pleasing refined looking young Maori wife and one or two young children, but like 99 out of a hundred Maori women, no helpmate for a civilised man, at least within doors. (F. T's above sentence is difficult to understand, so it must be assumed that Howel's wife, Stephens daughter, had died and that he had then "married" a Maori women.)
A Mr. Watson has an Irishwoman for a wife, all the other men, perhaps 12 or 14, have Maori women, thus from Port Cooper to this place, two thirds of the native women,
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who are not aged, are living with European men. No wonder, if in addition to measles and other diseases and ardent spirits, the Aboriginal population is fast diminishing. At each place which I have visited I have been assured that the Maoris are dying rapidly, "perishing like rotten sheep" the people often say, thus at Kurreroa or Molineux, where there are now half a dozen natives, they say that formerly and at a remote period, about two generations previous to the present, there were above a thousand, and in many other places, within the last 16 years, which is about the extent of the experience of the older natives, there has been in many places a corresponding diminution of numbers. If this is an unexaggerated statement it is a very distressing one to reflect on.
Since Dr. Selwyn visited the Settlement, one of the residents, Mr Bromley, an educated man, has opened a school for half breed or any other children and the progress which the children have already made is very encouraging.
Thursday May 23rd.
Rain and squalls unabated. I called on Mr. Watson to see the wheat which he had grown, it was in very good condition and heavy, grown on cleared bush land, a nice sandy loam, but too sandy for to last long without manure. Mr. & Mrs. Watson keep a good fire and a clean comfortable house. Watson has the reputation of being a good Lime burner. I deferred going up the River as it was impossible to judge, in such inclement weather, of the extent of the land.
Friday May 24th.
Weather much the same, but the rain less frequent, the horizon to the N. E. distinct and clear. Went up the Jacobs River or the Aparima (a far more euphonious name) in a boat of Howel's, with volunteer crew to show me the land. The course of
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the main river is generally about N. N. West, that of a branch, about 1 1/2 miles up, called the Purnpurnikau, to the East, thus there can be only a few miles of land between the Oreti and the Purnpurnikau, and the ground being low, a continued line of inland navigation might be opened from the Bluff to Jacobs River by the construction of two short and inexpensive canals. I landed on the East bank of the Aparima, on the grass land, and provided with a spade I examined the soil for 2 or 3 miles inland and then returned towards the S. E., crossing the land to the banks of the Purnpurnikau. As far as I could see N. East, certainly beyond Tuturau, the land appeared to be one continual Prairie, not low and flat or much broken, but a fine swelling surface, slightly elevated, just such a surface as is compatible with beauty and utility. All the lands required for a large settlement might be here obtained in one continuous block, and it appeared that there would be scarcely any variation in the quality and value of the sections, excepting as they were more or less remote from the Town, the high roads or water carriage. Fine groves of Timber, resembling the beech woods of England, are scattered over the Plain. On the West side of Aparima there is a continuous Forest, the river is near to the foot of the hills, consequently there is little available land, the prevailing species of trees are Rimu, Totara and tall Manuka, all indications of an inferior soil. On the West side is a dip in the wooded hills, over which is a short route to Kollucks Bay (Colac Bay). The Birch like woods on the East side are of white Birch, likewise no recommendation of the soil, but the chief objection to the District is that the Prairie affords scarcely any food for cattle, like the narrow plain of the Waikauwa, it grows only the wiry tree grass or something similar and Phormium tenax and no amassed perennial groundsel or milk thistle and very little couch grass, and I feel confident if tilled, until manured, it would not return a crop.
Howel's cattle graze on the sandy land between the east branch of the river and the beach, lands wholly unfit for tillage, but having common edible grasses. I ascertained however that
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they, the cows, gave scarcely any milk, not more than a goat well fed. I regretted that I could not form here the Settlement where there are so many facilities and beauties to recommend it for selection, but my duty was clear to me, I had seen far better lands, with a better climate, and the frequent occurrence of rain here at all seasons of the year reduces the number of working days, equal to 25 part (percent? ) on the cost of labour, compared with some other districts. The degree of cold exposure is no objection, I was assured (which I believe to be true) that it rarely exceeds what was now experienced.
I abandoned my previous intention of visiting the Maori Settlement, called Wakapatu, where there are about 50 natives, in the District of Pauia (Pahia) about 30 miles South West, considering that it would not counterbalance my objective, if that land, which is so remote from any Port and difficult of access by land, should prove, as it was represented, to be a very fertile District.
I recommended the Residents to endeavour to obtain a title, in right of their wives and children, to the land which they had enclosed and built on, before a settlement should be formed by strangers, which at no distant period they might look forward to, and this consideration considerably lessened their disappointment at my decision. Vide note. (F. T's note is on page 38 (73/74 in this edited transcription) of his written diary, inserted between Thursday May 30th and Friday May 31st, I have taken the liberty of inserting it next.)
Note.
I was informed that there was is one river (Waiau River) between this and Preservation Bay, with a bar entrance not accessible to boats, its source said to be an immense lake (in fact three, Lake Monowai, Lake Manapouri and Lake Te Anau) from the head of which one may walk to Jacksons Bay (actually Martins Bay via Lake Te Anau and the Hollyford
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Track) in two days. (A very optimistic time, as the Hollyford Track alone takes 4 to 5 days.)
All the people frequenting this coast believe in the existence of an extraordinary bird or phantom, which they can never see but only hear rushing past them through the air with the rapidity of a falling rocket and making a terrible rushing sound. The Maoris declare that it is a Bird possessing many joints in its wings. The Whalers call them Breaksea devils after an island (at the entrance to Breaksea Sound on the west coast of Fiordland) where this phenomenon is of most frequent occurrence.
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Letters
To Co. Wm. Wakefield. -- New River, May 25th 1844.
Yesterday evening I returned from Jacob River with the determination to return to Otago, and there form the Settlement of New Edinburgh, taking as the District the valley of the Tearea (Taieri) and the Plain of Molineux, or the River Matau (the native name) (now the Clutha River), subject to a confirmation of this judgement on a fresh examination of the District, for which object I propose landing again at Molineux, exploring the course of the Matau into the interior, and walking from there inland to Otago, in order to verify my opinion that an easy line of communication may be established on dry ground along the west side of the Tiaria valley. Anticipating that this will be my first choice, the second would be still Otago as the port, and for its district a tract of land along shore, terminating about 10 miles north of Moeraki at the mouth of the North Bluff River, its north boundary to be due west four miles inland, and all intervening valleys between the north & south extremities, as far as it may be desirable to survey such valleys. In other words I wish to be authorised to purchase and survey 150,000 acres interjacent between Otago and the South Headland of Molineux Bay (called the Nuggets) or between Otago and the North Bluff River, or the North Headland of Moeraki Bay, the precise boundaries of such lands to be defined hereafter on completion of the actual survey, the Reserves within such points to be specified by the vendors in the Deed of Conveyance or agreement of purchase.
It must I think be obvious that it would be easy for the present Proprietors to define the limits of that which they will not sell, and equally so that it must be impossible for me, prior to the Survey, exactly to define the boundaries of that which I consider eligible for the settlement and am desirous to acquire.
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I shall direct Mr Davison to call at Waikaiwaiki to obtain any despatches which you may have forwarded for me, and if no unforeseen obstacle has occurred or shall occur, to commence discharging the lading of the schooner at the head of the Lower Harbour, on the northwest bank, on ground which belongs immediately to Tiroa and has been occupied by him. If he has returned from Banks Peninsular, Mr Davison will apply to him for permission, if still absent I must not risk it, and send to inform Tuawaiki and the Maoris in general of my choice and desire to treat with them for the purchase. I fear this transaction will be a protracted affair, Tiroa has been a very indifferent character and emissaries from the Northern Island have been industrious in trying to excite a prejudice against us. I shall probably have an opportunity to request Chasland, who has married Tiroa's sister (in the event of my own efforts being landed in the absence of Tiroa), to use his influence to convince Tiroa that we have no desire to take possession of his land, as he may be instigated to suspect, and truly await an offer from all the owners of the Land and the permission of his excellency the Governor to effect the purchase.
I send you herewith a daily record of my proceedings, which will I hope justify the selection which I have determined on and satisfy you that pains have been taken to form a correct and unquestionable decision. The expedition has been an interesting one to me, but its pleasure has been greatly marred in consequence of the shortness of the days and the inclemency of the season, preventing me from accomplishing more. Mr Barnicoat & Davison (the Surveyors attached to the expedition) have had to contend with hindrances from the same source, which no exertions on their part could obviate. I particularly regret that the protracted absence of the Schooner prevented them from making a survey of the Waikauwa Harbour (known in Sidney (Sydney) as Success River) which, with the lands adjacent to the To Toi or Mataura River, and Tu Tutau as its district, would I incline to think be my third choice. The District of Jacobs River or Aparima with the New River (Oreti), and Bluff as the har-
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bour and town site, my fourth choice, or the Bluff the third and Waikauwa the fourth, subject to an inspection of the land on the To Toi or Mataura, and my fifth choice. Port Cooper.
I now see that the colonisation of this Island is worth pursuing and promoting, horses, carriages, even railroads and canals may be serviceable and profitable, and as the country shall become occupied by the formation of successive settlements, north and south of Otago, the whole may be connected by a continued line of road from Jacobs River to Port Cooper, on this extended line a large population will some future day exist in comparative comfort, especially if the Government and the Company will encourage country gentlemen to emigrate by facilitating their acquisition of estates of one or two thousand acres, at a price low in proportion to their extent, subject to a tax if unoccupied, or subject to a condition to employ during the Proprietors life, directly or indirectly, a certain number of labourers. Such emigrants would then select industrious agricultural labourers of good character, they would do that well for themselves, which any Company must, with its cumbrous expensive machinery, necessarily do badly for them - in other words I desire to see readopted, with some modifications, the exploded evils of the genuine colonisation of old time.
I have great difficulties to contend with at Otago, in respect to the site of the Town, also in consequence of the expense which must be incurred in surveying and making a road on either side to the head of the harbour (say twice 14 miles), on much of which only a single line of ten acre Sections can be obtained. Further there are probably twenty squatters occupying the best town site on the south east side of this harbour (see tracing of plan). It might be desirable to stake the east side for the settlement, having a district south and the west, for the next having a district north. I prefer the west side, but I am not so confident as ordinarily I am when I form an opinion. I should therefore wish to leave this selection to Mr Rennie, and proceed with the survey of the area only, not subdividing into smaller
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sections than 50 acres. The two sites which I consider most eligible for the Town I should survey, the rest by contract, also the cutting of a line, as the back line of ten acre sections, on either side, parallel with the harbour, to the grass land at its head, such lines to be cut six feet in width at the outset that cattle and horses may pass to and fro. For this reason, and also because the land is not obtained, it is impossible, in reference to contract surveys, to offer an advertisement other than in very general terms. I would submit, as suitable something to this effect.
"Tenders are invited for the survey of above 100,000 acres of land (the greater part un-wooded), to be at a price framed on such quantity as shall be laid out in ten acre or in fifty acre sections, the locality of the lands to be surveyed, and the manner of executing the survey, and conditions of contract may be ascertained on application at Otago to the Agent for the Settlement. N. B. The contracting parties will be required to execute the survey themselves and to specify the name of any surveyor whom they wish to employ as an assistant, also to give security not to employ anyone who shall exist or occupy a house on the lands purchased by the New Zealand Company for the Scotch (sic Scottish') emigrants previous to their arrival and the distribution of the 10 acre Sections. The lowest Tender will not be necessarily accepted".
Also as another advertisement (and as a local placard). "Labourers in the Settlements of Wellington and Nelson are cautioned not to proceed to Otago, without first obtaining a positive engagement, in a vague expectation of procuring employment. No one will secure employment from the Company's Agent there who shall erect or occupy a house on the land purchased by the Company for the Scottish emigrants, prior to the distribution of the sections".
Such day labourers as I am compelled to employ I must provide with lodgings, deducting from their wages a small weekly payment as a rent. All contractors must house their labourers and give up possession of any building erected by them on completion of
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their contracts. Without some very stringent regulations there will be a host of squatters established at Otago prior to the arrival of the Proprietors, and I shall be pestered daily by demands for employment. The construction of a wharf, or pier for landing, of a house, and temporary outbuilding, for store and lodgings excepted, it appears to me unnecessary to proceed with any other work but the survey, and even that must be suspended until possession can be obtained. At this season of the year the employment of labour will be particularly disadvantageous. I can go through more than most men, but if I am overdone I shall fret and chafe. I am predetermined never to bear again in office such insult and bullying as I received from the miscreant emigrants at Nelson, their habits are formed of confirmed indolence, I hope not to see them in Otago.
I can employ, with advantage no doubt, the two Cadets who executed copies of Capt. Smith's Plans of Harbours for me at your Survey Office, if it continues to be your wish that they should be employed here. If they come they should be provided with a Theodolite and a small tent lined, or else a small framed house with panelled sides, that could be easily taken in pieces and re-erected, such are often to be purchased at half the cost price. I shall require by the first opportunity, a further supply of pork, flour, tea and coffee, shirts (striped cotton and blue flannel) and worsted stockings, mattocks, pickaxes, strong hovels, quarry men's tools and blasting do., crowbars, hatchets, axes and bill hooks, two grindstones and a few strong wheelbarrows, also some stout iron. Such assortment would be necessary, though as I desire no day labourers should be employed, otherwise the contractors may often be delayed for want of a supply of tools. The provisions and slops can be obtained from the Company's Store at Nelson, if you prefer it being so supplied, but not the tools. I should like to engage Mr A Saunders of Nelson as storekeeper and superintendent of day labourers, not occupied in the survey, or if he was not inclined to fill such an office, I would offer it to Mr I. M. Hill, with the approbation of Mr Fox, at present
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in the service of Fox, or to Mr Healey. I shall write to Mr Saunders making him the offer, the engagement not to commence until the Lands of the Settlement are purchased and the surveys offered to contractors. But if you, knowing the present feeling of the Government towards the settlement, see a prospect of a speedy arrangement and approve of the appointment, perhaps you will have the goodness to inform Mr Saunders when he may proceed to Otago. As Mr Rennie will probably be accompanied by some individual in such capacity, it will be best to make only a temporary appointment until Mr Rennie's arrival, on this account undertaking to pay his passage to and fro and salary at the same rate as is received by Mr Wilson (the exact amount I do not remember). If the limestone at Kai Koro is equal to that at Nelson I should like to have a quantity that I can burn when it is most required, provided I have also a dozen short thick bars of cast iron fit for the grating of the kiln, such as are used for dogs on a hearth by people along this coast. A crate of common strong stoneware, consisting of soup and other plates, meat and vegetable dishes, basins and cups, would be serviceable in addition to other stores already mentioned, also white lead, boiled linseed oil, turpentine and paint brushes, a bolt of tight canvas or Russian sheet, spun yarn, and a crab for hauling up a heavy boat or landing heavy goods.
I propose calling at Pattersons River, Stewarts Island, just to see the place, which must be very limited in extent as the mass of Stewarts Island is mountainous and now covered in snow. I can only leave this with a fair wind for Pattersons River, and proceed north with a southerly wind, calling at Roibuki to inform the natives, if any there are Proprietors of the locality which I wish to acquire. I have abandoned my intention of proceeding to Jacksons Bay, north of Milford Haven on the West Coast, not being able to accomplish it within the time proposed. I have conversed with many individuals who have been there frequently & recently, they all concur in representing it as a most eligible field in respect of the extent & quality of
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the land for a large settlement, its climate warm (Indian com & maize flourishing) and sand flies a perfect scourge, but they also state that it is not a harbour, and also that it is the only place on the West Coast where an extensive tract of available land exists. The remote probability of its proving preferable to what I have already examined as the site of the settlement is of inferior moment in comparison with the certain importance of the Tearea, pending the further prolongation of the selection of the site. I believe that from Nelson the passage to Otago will be made as quickly along the west coast and as many of the settlers are interested by the reports which have reached them of the El Dorado of Jacksons Bay, we shall receive before long many descriptions of that locality. Mr Barnicoat for about Twenty Pounds would I have do doubt return to Otago along the West Coast, thoroughly examine the land there, and make a report on its extent and capabilities, accompanied by a sketch.
As my thoughts flow more rapidly than I can pen them, I write, as usual hastily and without any attempt at arrangement or composition, necessarily discursively, and I have not leisure to attempt an amended style, I also write with considerable inconvenience from cold and damp, but I hope that I shall have succeeded in expressing myself intelligibly, and I believe that if I have not stated the whole truth at least I have stated nothing but the truth. Dr Munroe or Mr Barnicoat will no doubt be willing to gratify probable curiosity by some statement of their own observations and opinions. Mine choice and the decision have been formed on my own judgement, without ascertaining those of others, and it would be more agreeable to me that they should not be communicated to the Public through the medium of the local newspapers prior to the arrival of Mr Rennies expedition.
A Mr Jones of Sidney (Sydney) claims the entire District at Molineux, about 200 square miles, his claim was not investigated by Col. Godfrey, his agent Mr Wiltshire, who resides at Molineux, not having received instructions from Sidney or information of the commissioners arrival in time. Wiltshire has the care of a few head of cattle, he
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has cultivated hardly any land, but has a good house or two, he receives no salary and appears to subsist through the protection of a Maori woman, lost sight of and neglected by his nominal employer the pretended Proprietor of the land. Another Englishman named Russell, who states that he purchased land of Jones, resides there.
Frederick Tuckett.
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F. T's Diary
Sunday May 26th.
(Frederick Tuckett must have taken one of his few "Sabbath days of rest", one that was not forced upon him, because there is no entry for this day in his diary or for the previous day).
Monday May 27th.
Messrs Barnicoat and Davison went by my desire to the Bluff to survey a portion of that Harbour, in order to shew the relative position and propinquity.
Unable to leave the River for want of wind.
Tuesday May 28th.
Left the New River with the ebb tide and land here (Stewarts Island), becalmed in the Straits. (Foveaux Straits)
Wednesday May 29th.
Off Pattersons River, Stewarts Island, becalmed, went in with the Tide and anchored.
Thursday May 30th.
Occupied the whole day in writing. Messrs Barnicoat and Davison landed to explore the District and report on its qualities and extent.
Friday May 31st.
Messrs Barnicoat and Davison returned last night after midnight, they went about 5 miles up the river in fresh water, where it is very narrow. They report the valley to be about 2 miles in width, the land level on either side, the quality very inferior, they could hear the surf on the opposite shore of the
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Island. The wooded land on either side of the Bay, which is about 12 miles in depth, although presenting a face of rock to the sea, appeared to be very fertile, but the surface is extremely broken, although the numerous ridges are of slight elevation. Mr. Barnicoat, who is a Cornishman and has no dread of hills, considers the locality to be an inviting one for a small settlement (?the rocks basaltic).
Sailed for Raubouki (Ruapuke Island) with a fair wind, paid Mr Wohlers a short visit and informed Tupaki and other principal Maoris that I proposed proceeding to Otago to remain there, and requested them to inform Tuawaikia Tuoa (who still remained at Port Levy) that I wished to see them at Otago to treat with them for the purchase of land. 5 o'clock P. M. sailed and in the next 4 hours ran nearly 40 miles.
Saturday June 1st.
Am about to land at Molineux to explore the land on the Matau and walk to Otago, expecting to join the schooner there on the 11th. Mr. Davison will proceed direct to Waikauwaite to inquire for letters, and if no obstacle presents commence the discharge of our effects.
Frederick Tuckett.
I have not time to make a, or have made a fair copy of this prolix diary.
I send a specimen of coal from the cliff North of Molineux Bay.
Tuckett then "walked" for the next 10 days to Otago Harbour (Port Chalmers) exploring on the way and finally made up his mind that Otago should be the site for the Settlement of New Edinburgh (Dunedin).
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Letters
To Col. Wm. Wakefield. -- Otago, June 13th 1844.
I arrived here on the 11th inst. having landed at Molineux on the 1st and despatched the "Deborah" schooner to Otago, with instructions to forward my correspondence, which I then direct by the "Scotia" or any other vessel which might offer an eligible opportunity. The "Scotia" however was then on her way from Wellington and arrived here on the 8th inst. with Mr Symonds PM and Mr Wakefield Esq. (Daniel Bell Wakefield)
My renewed examination of the district has confirmed my judgement of its eligibility and I have therefore, through Mr Wakefield informed the Government Representative that I wish to be allowed to purchase for the New Zealand Company a district in which I may attain 150,000 acres of land eligible for subdivision, the precise limits of which are to be hereafter determined on actual execution of the actual survey.
I have illustrated my view by the aid of a sketch of the district, in which that which is coloured represents the tract of land to be purchased of the natives, that which is coloured Red the land for the New Zealand Company and eligible for occupation, leaving the question open as to the future proprietorship of that which is coloured Green as between the Government and the Company, and this done in order to simplify the definitions of the boundaries between us and the Aborigines, in the belief that the whole may be purchased for about the same sum as the half. I do not however think that it will be effected for the sum you have provided viz. £2000, but at present the negotiation has not been attempted, all the parties interested not having yet arrived. I feel it will be a tedious affair before I am at liberty to use instruments or cut down wood without being exposed to the interference of a ruffian crew of sailor constables, as Major Richmond has insultingly proposed to Mr Sy-
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monds, as the mode of coercing the Company's Agent (though well known not to bear arms, offensive or defensive).
On the discharge of the "Deborah" tomorrow, I give Capt. Wing, according to agreement, a Bill drawn on you payable at sight.
I shall have to make payments in cheque or notes for the ordinary expense wages, and shall if any building or other previous works are entered on require a further sum to the credit of the account of the Settlement at New Edinburgh with the Nelson Bank. If any draft is not in proper form, perhaps Mr Kelham will inform me in writing how to proceed in future, some conversation took place at Wellington, in which he made some suggestions respecting future Bills, but other subjects have required my attention subsequently and that I cannot remember.
I enclose a tracing of the sketch already alluded to.
Frederick Tuckett.
Postscript.
Friday June 14th.
Mr Wakefield having gone down the harbour, two vessels being required, on the 12th and a gale of wind detaining the boat from returning, the negotiation for the purchase of Land is not opened.
The Bearer Mr Bath, Master of the "Casbon" to receive the sum of Five Pounds for the safe and speedy delivery of this despatch, provided he delivers it before the arrival of the "Deborah". He will be glad of a cargo from Wellington, if non offers he will proceed to Nelson.
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To Daniel Wakefield. -- Otago, June 13th 1844.
I beg you will communicate to the Government Representative - Symonds Esq., that I wish to effect a purchase of the 150,000 acres allowed for the Settlement of New Edinburgh, in a district interjacent between the Harbour of Otago and the South Headland, Tokata of Molineux Bay (Kuneroo?), the precise limits of such 150,000 acres to be defined hereafter on execution of the actual survey, the reserves within such limits, if any, are required to be defined by the settlers. It would greatly facilitate a clear understanding with the present proprietors for a continuous block of land, equal to about 12 miles in its entire breadth (in a course inland about due west by compass) might be acquired. In the accompanying plan and my sketch, such a block of land is indicated in the space coloured Red and Green, the former represents the land I would survey and subdivide into sections, the latter that which I consider ineligible for occupation. The boundaries, as nearly as I can define them, would are along either shore of Otago Harbour from the entrance to the head, the summit ridge from which the water flows to the harbour, or if preferred say ten miles back from the shore of the harbour, of which, on an average, not more than half a mile would be available. Proceeding inland to the head of the Tiarea Valley I would propose the adoption of the same natural boundary of the summit ridge from whence the water flows south east and south to the coast by the valley of the Kaikarai or Green River and the plain of the Tiarea.
The same natural boundary (summit ridge) on the west of the Tiarea and Tokomuroia Plains to the bank of the River Matau, 3 miles above the separation of the Koau branch of the Matau.
From thence continuing the western boundary, a straight line from the upper extremity of the survey of 3 miles up the valley of the Matau, to the head of the sierra.
From the head or source of the Puerua, as a south western boundary, to the head of the stream called Kuneroo, to the sea-
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shore - along the seashore from 1 mile north east of the head of Otago harbour to the South Headland of Molineux Bay or Kuneroo, the eastern boundary, to the Ocean, on which frontage the land proposed to be subdivided into sections is coloured red, nowhere heading inland more than one mile.
Remarks on the district. Immediately south of the mouth of the Kuneroo (Molineux Bay), on the seashore, 3 or 4 good houses have been erected, two of which are occupied, the one by Mr Wiltshire the other by Mr Russell, the former as agent of some party in Sidney, the latter as proprietor of land, which he purchased of the same party in Sidney. Mr Wiltshire has cleared it partially, cultivated about 10 acres of land. Russell less than half that quantity. They have no acknowledged claim. Immediately north of the mouth of the Kuneroo, also on the seashore, reside a few Maories, viz. Toki the widow of Tahui, formerly chief of Kuneroo, Makauri, a young woman, Mouiliou and Touwera aged men, Raki-Raki and Tohatu young men, also three children. They have recently erected some new houses, of improved construction and have a few acres of land adjoining in cultivation. These with Te Raki and Kuru of the Tiarea who reside at the Tiarea are the only aboriginal residents. Tuawaite was born on the banks of the Matau and considers himself almost sole Proprietor. Another Tribe of Maoris once occupied this district and were very numerous, but being exceedingly unwarlike they were rapidly exterminated by the present owners, the Rangitanui, and this within the present century. I wish it to be clearly stated in the deed of purchase, or clearly explained to the Maoris and recorded, that the names of such Maoris as are now actually resident and occupiers of land within the district described, and that other Maoris cannot, after the land is paid for reside within the district excepting on such land as may be specially reserved for the present residents or others. The main clearings of Te Raki, near the mouth of the Tiarea, the others on the plain on the east bank of the river, I have not coloured supposing he would not part with them, otherwise
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the latter I should like to acquire. The native proprietors at Otago are, I believe residing near to the harbour mouth, I do not wish to acquire any of their usual places of residence at the entrance of the harbour, but of the point occupied as a whaling station and thence inland on the east side of the harbour, on which many Europeans reside, I consider it important that it should be put in our possession, either by the Magistrate or the aboriginal proprietors.
I request you will also communicate with Mr Symonds on another subject, the practice of squatting on land purchased by the New Zealand Company has been a source of much trouble in all the former settlements here, unless some regime in essence are practiced, the evil will be greatly increased on the arrival of adventurers prior to the emigrants. I have already written to the Principal Agent of the New Zealand Company requesting that an advertisement may be inserted in the Nelson Examiner and Wellington Gazette, cautioning all persons that no employment will be afforded to any, by the Company Resident Agent, who erect houses on the land purchased by the Company for the Settlement of New Edinburgh, prior to the distribution of the sections. Colonel Wakefield requests me to avail myself of your assistance in communicating with Mr Symonds respecting the purchase of Land, which I do with great pleasure after the very unpleasant communication of my previous intercourse with him. But Colonel Wakefield seems not to authorise me to request you to prepare a deed of purchase "except in the event of the present proprietors being of the European race", his words, and if necessary by preparing proper documents for binding white claimants to any bargain you may have to make for the cession to the Company of their lands as allowed by the Conveyancer.
I desire also to be informed, as early as convenient, when it will suit Mr Symonds to carry into effect his proposed inspection with the present proprietors, of the district which I desire to purchase for the New Zealand Company, and have delineated as accurately as I can in the accompanying sketch, in order that I may make timely
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arrangements with Mr Barnicoat & Mr Davison, as my representatives, to accompany them, the former being conversant with the district, but about to return to Nelson unless I should have occasion for his services on the contemplated excursion.
It is also very desirable to attempt a negotiation with the natives for the purchase as early as possible, that I never see what chance there is of a reasonable understanding forwarding despatches to and obtain from Wellington the money or goods required for completing the purchase.
As soon as it may be done without prejudice to the completion of the purchase of land for the Scotch Settlement, I will return to you the correspondence of Major Richmond and others sent through you for my information, with such comments for his information as my ideas of propriety and truth suggest. In the interim I beg to assure you that I regard him as little as Mordicai did Haman, but considering the source of the information I cannot suppress the expression of my surprise that it should have been communicated to me by any acting in the Service of the New Zealand Company.
Frederick Tuckett.
This letter refers to the land Tuckett has decided should be purchased, he provides a plan to show the full extent of this land and the part of this that would be required for the settlement. He also mentions that Symonds wishes to inspect the boundaries, together with the Maoris, and has arranged for his assistant surveyors to accompany Symonds. However this arrangement does not suit Symonds and the two "antagonists" are now into their second "disagreement", which concludes with Symonds (and Daniel Wakefield) departing once more for Wellington.
Tuckett also appears to be very concerned about "adventurers" (entrepreneurs in today's consumer society) and labourers coming to Otago looking to become rich or to obtain
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work. This is because of the difficulties with, and great abuse he received from the very many unemployed labourers in Nelson whilst he was acting as the Company Agent after the death of Arthur Wakefield at the Wairau Affray in 1843.
When Tuckett refers to Mordicai and Haman he is quoting from the Old Testament, a passage from Esther, where Haman, the King's "representative" tried to have Mordicai, Esther's uncle, killed because he did not bow down to him, this perhaps being a reference to Symonds attitude towards him.
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To The Agent of the New Zealand Company for New Edinburgh. -- Otago, June 15th 1844.
As I deem it essential that the Company Agent should be present to point out the boundaries of the intended purchase to the Aboriginal proprietors in order to prevent any misunderstanding hereafter I have the honour to request you will be pleased to accompany me for the justification of this purpose as soon as you can make it convenient to do so.
John Jermyn Symonds.
To J. J. Symonds. -- Otago, June 15th 1844.
If it is indispensable that I should accompany you to point out the boundaries of the intended purchase to the Aboriginal Proprietors, although my absence would occasion a great hindrance to the most urgent affairs of the settlement, it would be least inconvenient to me to leave immediately.
I beg to inform you that this contemplated journey has excited dissatisfaction of the Maori Chiefs, that it has been imparted to me as my wish and act by Tiroa, accompanied by a very strong expression of his antipathy, and as I am only anxious respecting the definition of the boundaries of their Reserves within the District, should they wish to reserve any land, I beg you will acquaint the Maori chiefs that this step is required of me by you.
I would submit that it is first necessary to ascertain whether they will sell the land and on what terms. I certainly should not feel justified in incurring the indirect expenses (consequent on a suspension of business) of such a journey until the terms of purchase had been determined subject to a mutual recognition of the boundaries indicated on the sketch of the District.
Frederick Tuckett.
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To Frederick Tuckett. -- Otago, June 15th 1844.
I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of this days date and believe to inform you that I was not aware of any dissatisfaction prevailing among the Chiefs regarding the contemplated expedition to inspect the boundaries of the intended purchase. I entirely coincide (concur) with what you submit, that it is first necessary to ascertain whether the Aboriginal proprietors "will sell the land, and on what terms" and should recommend that a meeting of the native proprietors should be convened, as speedily as may suit your convenience, to ascertain their sentiments on all points in question.
I shall feel obliged if you will inform me, of the time and place proposed for the meeting, and shall feel happy to do all in my power to forward the views of the New Zealand Company on the occasion.
John Jermyn Symonds.
To J. J. Symonds. -- Otago, June 15th 1844.
I have the honour to enclose you a copy of a letter just received from Mr Tuckett the New Zealand Company's agent for New Edinburgh in answer to your letter.
D. Wakefield.
To D. Wakefield. Otago, June 15th 1844.
I enclose for your perusal a letter just received from J. J. Symonds Esq. and shall be obliged by your convening a meeting as quickly as possible of native Chiefs and other proprietors of lands at Otago, and from hence to Molineux Bay, then the aid of the Interpreter, if it is true that an Interpreter is placed at your disposal and under your direction, would be useful.
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As I have no official knowledge of any individual having been employed in that capacity for my assistance, I am under the necessity in the very anomalous position in which I find myself placed of speaking and acting merely on hypothesis.
Frederick Tuckett.
PS. You will also please to inform Mr Symonds of the time and place proposed for the Meeting, on my behalf.
To D. Wakefield. Otago, June 16th 1844.
It is with great regret that I learn from your favour of yesterday that the negotiation with the natives is deferred for one week, although convinced that it will produce a very unfavourable impression on their minds, and also that it is unnecessary especially in reference to Otago, I must of course acquiesce in the judgement of the Government Representative.
If the Maori chiefs inspect the boundaries, which is very doubtful, each proprietor will only look at that which concerns himself, so that it will be effected only by incisive expeditions to each particular piece. Absolutely prohibited from acting myself I know it to be perfectly impracticable to inspect the boundaries in Otago, where only it is of paramount importance, without a preliminary Survey, cutting lines through the woods, I beg to remind you that I have, through you, submitted to the consideration of the Government Representative two definitions of the boundary of the proposed purchase of Otago in either the summit ridge on either side from whence the water flows to the harbour - or a space of a mile inland on either side of the harbour from the water edges, and as yet I have not been informed which proposition is preferred - if the former the only way of showing it to the Maoris, is from the middle of the Harbour in a boat, if the latter it cannot be shown until the boundary is set out and cut.
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Such are the endless difficulties consequent on having to act with parties who are not practical working men that I begin to despair of any purchase being effected.
Frederick Tuckett.
PS. Will you allow me instead of returning the papers which you sent me addressed to you by Major Richmond, to forward them to Col. Wakefield by the Deborah, and return to me Mr Symonds letter of yesterday which I also wish to enclose. I hope to furnish you with a copy of a hand to you for perusal my present correspondence with Col. Wakefield, if I fear I have not time to make a second copy thereof.
To Col. Wm. Wakefield. Otago, June 16th 1844.
On the 14th instant I provided by Bath, Master of schooner Casbon, despatches communicating a report of my proceedings up to the date of my arrival here on the 11th inst. I beg now to augment you with subsequent occurrences, in sequence, in consequence of the anomalous position in which I find myself placed.
Arriving here on the 11th I found Mr Symonds and Mr D. Wakefield already arrived, and on application to Mr Wakefield I received from him your letter dated May 8th, one from Mr Kelham dated 1st and various papers addressed to Mr Wakefield from Major Richmond's office, in one of which he is requested to show them to me for my information.
On the morning of the 13th I sent a letter to Mr Wakefield embodying three distinct subjects, but all of matter in which I was officially interested, and communicated to Mr Wakefield, in consequence of, or in reply to the communications received as above mentioned through him (a copy whereof I here enclose).
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On the evening of the 14th Mr Wakefield informed me that he had unfortunately placed in Mr Symonds hands my letter of the 13th inst, expressed his regret that I should have written to him on several subjects in our letter and requested that I would write to him to assure him that I did not intend that the letter, which I addressed to him, should be perused by Mr Symonds. With this request I promised to comply, provided the circumstances on which the application was founded were stated to me in writing, Mr Wakefield promised that he would write to me. In conversation with Mr Wakefield, at the same interview, I learnt from him that he was in possession of credentials from you fully authorising him to act in case of necessity in the capacity of Agent of the Settlement in my stead, also that he had received from Mr Kelham a sum of money considered adequate to the purchase, the disposition of which had been entrusted to him, in as much as he specified that he could not consent to the disposition of a portion of it in accordance with the intimated wishes of the Col. Government, and he also mentioned that he had been applied to for payment from Jones of the passage in the Scotia of some native chiefs, to which he objected.
I beg to state that Mr Wakefield appeared to refer to the contingency of my decease or being otherwise incapable of acting, that he subsequently offered to place in my possession the money which he had received from Mr Kelham, and that these subjects were discussed on his part with the most unexceptionable courtesy. I have heard incidentally from others that a qualified individual has arrived to act in the capacity of Interpreter.
On the morning of the 15th a letter was delivered to me addressed to the Agent of the New Zealand Company for New Edinburgh, but it did not specify the party by name, written by Mr Symonds, to which I replied and received from him a second letter in reply to it, this I immediately forwarded to Mr Wakefield, requesting him to make arrangements in compliance with
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Mr Symonds wishes. I also received a note from Mr Wakefield enclosing a letter from Mr Kelham dated 18th May, and subsequently from the same Gentleman a reply to my letter, proposing the 22nd as the day for conferring with the aboriginal Proprietors respecting the proposed purchase of their land, in which, as being the judgement of the Government Representative, I of course acquiesce, although I fear the delay will excite much dissatisfaction amongst the native Proprietors, nearly all of whom have been already represented, I believe, either in person or by proxy.
I send you herewith the letters to which I have alluded with copies of my own.
To elucidate the position in which I feel myself placed, I beg to remind you that your own instructions in reference to Mr Wakefield give me but a limited power to avail myself of the assistance of that Gentleman, and that this marked instruction in the words "white claimants" is in the very letter of the verbal instructions which I received from you at Wellington, and that I understood from your letter that the express object of Mr Wakefield's coming was that by his superior tact and experience in the courtesies of official intercourse my crude purposes might be communicated to the Government Representative in a style becoming and palatable, which service I accepted with sincere satisfaction. Further that in Mr Kelham's letter of the 1st May no allusion is made to Mr Wakefield, and in his letter of the 18th May (received yesterday) and addressed to me indirectly, his mission is only alluded to indirectly, in a complimentary manner. In the sentiments of Mr Kelham's last letter touching my future intercourse with Mr Symonds I entirely concur and I had already studiously acted in the manner and spirit therein recommended.
It appears to me, from the discrepancies I have laid before you, that I have been morally superseded in order to appease the offended majesty of the Government Officers, if it had been done in a manly direct way I should have been little annoyed by the
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cause of a result which would be to me truly welcome. Acknowledging that this is only conjecture, and even should it be an unwarrantable one, still there remains an actual ground of just complaint, that I am placed in a position in which I must either fail of my duty towards my employees by allowing another to do for me that which I am at present still instructed to perform myself, or hazard their interests and fail of due deference towards an individual by whom the affairs of the Settlement would be conducted to the satisfaction of Major Richmond and Mr Kelham. I therefore beg you will relieve me at once entirely from the vexations of office which I never will hold at the expense of myself respect, or as the price of insult.
I regard it as a wanton insult that Major Richmond should have requested that it might be communicated to me for my information that Mr Symonds was instructed to avail himself of the assistance of any crew in Port to coerce me to obedience, having never in my life resisted a legal authority, and having acted officially during my late expedition strictly in conformity with both the letter and spirit of his qualified injunction to me.
Frederick Tuckett
To J. J. Symonds. -- Otago, June 17th 1844.
I have the honour to enclose you a copy of a letter which I have received yesterday from Mr Tuckett the New Zealand Company's Agent for New Edinburgh.
D. Wakefield.
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Minim, of a letter dated 15 June written by Mr Wakefield to Mr Tuckett - - - - Mr Wakefield informs Mr Tuckett that Mr Symonds had fixed that day week for a meeting of the natives for the purpose of ascertaining their sentiments respecting the intended purchase. Mr Wake. informed Mr S. that Mr S. would form notices of the intended meeting, as well as explain the subject to the natives on the Monday following and it was expected that a considerable number would be collected - - - -
To F. Tuckett. -- Otago, June 17th 1844.
I have the honour to inform you that I am about to return to Wellington by the Deborah, as I find it impossible to carry into effect His Excellency the Governor's instructions, in consequence of your extraordinary conduct, and correspondence, as well as your repeated opposition to any proposals suggested by me for the speedy arrangement of the purchase of lands from the native proprietors, for the intended site of New Edinburgh.
John Jermyn Symonds.
Here follows a private letter
To J. J. Symonds. -- Otago, June 17th 1844.
Having sent your note to Mr Tuckett informing him of your intention to return to Wellington, and of your reasons for so doing, I beg here to say that I entirely concur in the conclusion you have come to on the subject, and I am of the opinion that Mr Tucketts behaviour, since our meeting him at this place leaves no alternative for you to adopt.
D. Wakefield.
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To F. Tuckett. -- Otago, June 17th 1844.
I beg leave to return the letter from Mr Symonds to you date the 15th inst. according to your request as well as to say that I have no objection to all the papers addressed to me by Major Richmond being forwarded to Col. Wakefield.
I have furnished Mr Symonds with a coy of your letter to me dated yesterday, and he has informed me that he intends to return to Wellington by the "Deborah". Mr Symonds has also informed me that his reason for taking this step, is a belief that it will be impossible for him to "superintend and assist" you as Agent for the New Zealand Company for the new Settlement, since by your letters and conduct you, although not expressly, but in reality reject his superintendence and assistance, and in your last letter you directly charge him with incapacity. I regret very much that Mr Symonds has been forced to come to this determination, as his absence will occasion delay in obtaining the land to be purchased from the natives, and may thereby seriously impair the New Settlement. I must also say however, that considering your conduct towards Mr Symonds as a representative of the Government here, I believe that he has recorded correctly, and will exercise a sound discretion in returning to Wellington & I shall accompany Mr Symonds, being perfectly sure that I can be of no service in any transaction between the Government and yourself who have repudiated my efforts as a mediator in a manner equally extraordinary and unjustifiable.
D. Wakefield.
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To Col. Wm. Wakefield. -- Otago, June 17th 1844.
I discharged the "Deborah" (Capt. Wing) on the 14th instant, having retained her from the 28th March, instead of giving the Master in payment a Bill payable at sight drawn on you as previously appointed, fearing to commit some informality in the form, I preferred, with Capt. Wings consent, to pay him in a cheque on the Nelson Branch of Union Bank, the amount £234. 0. 0. I thus considerably overdraw the amount with the Bank for the Settlement, especially as by the "Casbon" I remitted a cheque for £50 to enable Mr Thompson to complete the purchase of certain building materials, which on leaving Nelson I commissioned him to procure as soon as the site of the Settlement should be determined on.
I now write to Nelson to countermand all my requests, private and official, communicated by the "Casbon", excepting that of the execution of which had been previously entrusted to Mr Thompson.
For your information, and that of my successor, I will endeavour briefly to state what, in my judgement, are the most important measures to be first adopted for the interests of the Settlement. First. Required from England an Iron steamer of 50 horse power, to tow vessels into the Matau and around that River (there is always upwards of 12 ft. water on the bar). The construction of a wharf and jetty, opposite Mr Wiltshire's house, south of the Matau the only landing place on the beach, this could not be accomplished without possession of a Pile Driver of the best construction (say the American Patent). I do not think it would do to check the waves by opposing any wall or waling? boards, but the surf must be admitted to rush between the piles. This work would not be required if a steamer could be procured from Australia, as within the Bar, on either bank of the Matau, there is every facility for landing goods, and for a Town site, that could be desired. A Ferry boat and station at the head of the Lake Rakitoto, to convey goods, passengers & horses arriving from Otago to any part of the Matau. A road from the head of the
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Waiola (vide Tearea Plain) to Rakitoto, a few water courses excepted, it is in its natural surface passable for a cart in the summer season. A Ferry boat and station, either at the head of, or elsewhere, on the Tearea River. A road from the head of Otago Harbour to the last mentioned ferry station. And a road 6 ft. wide to be cut through the forest from the head of Otago Harbour to my present station, this I would commence, if permitted, tomorrow, and I would let it in 4 contracts, of which a mile and a half each to 3 working men, commencing simultaneously at the centre and either extremity, the line to be set out for them by one of my assistants, it would be completed as regards the cutting and clearing in a Fortnight. The upper Harbour (to the head of which this line would conduct) is not yet surveyed, and of course cannot be surveyed until the Land has been paid for. I believe that a sufficient channel, with upwards of 12 ft. water at high water, will be found to within a mile, or a mile and a half of the Head, where there is an extensive, convenient and ornamental site suitable for a large Town in every respect, excepting its remoteness from the lower Harbour for shipping. As the distance exceeds that contemplated by Mr Rennie in his preparation for the survey of a mature and country Town, I do not feel at liberty to determine the site, even if it had not been appointed that the survey of Suburban Sections should be executed first.
With regards to this and the entire survey, I would propose to let in divisions at once the whole survey of the Settlement, & each district to be first laid out in 50 acre sections, in each district such sections as would embrace land of particular value in point of soil or situation and having an extent of land adjoining them, shall be laid out in proportions adopted for subdivision into 10 acre sections, in case the Proprietor, on arrival, should wish, as I am confident many will, to depart from the proposed Plan, and select in the country a 10 acre section and a 50 acre section contiguous or in its vicinity. The Contractors would not commence staking such sections until the whole was laid out in
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50 acre sections, unless this point should, by the early arrival of the Settlers, be already determined. The subdivision of a few 50 acre sections would be executed within a month in each contract. The Contractors would be invited to tender for the execution of the separate surveys at a certain price per acre for 50 acre sections, and at a certain price for 10 acre sections, wherever such further subdivisions should be required. The lands on Otago Harbour excepted, the whole survey may be executed with great rapidity and at a moderate expense.
Next to the plans of subdivision and the terms of the contract, is the importance of a vigilant examination of the contracts whilst in progress by persons of good capacity and strict integrity. The Chief Surveyor would require at least two such assistants, Mr Davison will, I believe, as one of them acquit himself creditably of its arduous duties, and considering the unsparing exertion that would be requisite in order that the examination of the contracts should keep pace with the progress of the contractors, the privations and exposure to wet and cold, such assistant inspectors ought to be remunerated on a scale more proportionate to the fair and ordinary profits derived by the contractors themselves than has hitherto been the case, less than £75 per quarter would not in my opinion be an adequate remuneration in a week against time, certainly not likely to last more than 15 months. Such assistants, to be paid monthly, if they did not give satisfaction to their employers to be discharged at the expiration of any month. Mr Davison at present receives £241. 5, being £150 salary and £91. 5. in lieu of provisions. The whole success of contracts, excepting in the infrequent accident of meeting with strictly honest men, depends mainly on the efficiency of the inspection. Several individuals are in want of Theodolites, and some of them would be deterred from tendering for a contract unless they can succeed in obtaining them. I have heard here that a Box of Instruments has arrived at Wellington, and I wish to secure the offer of a Theodolite at cost price here for Mr Barnicoat, Mr Watts, Mr
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Drake and for Mr Davison and the other assistant, that each of the latter may possess an instrument of his own, but if only four can be procured, to give the preference to persons desirous of contracting, securing one only for the Company's surveyors.
I retain Mr Barnicoat, who would otherwise have returned to Nelson by the "Deborah", in the service of the N. Z. Company from the 11th inst. at a salary of six Pounds per week and rations, which is the amount I agreed to pay him pending the selection of the site for New Edinburgh. The necessity of retaining arises from the requisition of the Government Representative that I should accompany him over the boundaries, and as it will be necessary to take Mr Davison that he may know the District, I must have a confidential person here, and one who can occupy himself in finishing the Plans of the Surveys already executed during the expedition. It is my wish, and it has been proposed by me, that Mr Barnicoat should shew the boundaries in my stead, which would be in every respect the best arrangement, he would record more accurately the position of Reserves, or any deviation from the proposed boundaries of the District which might be required by the Native Proprietors, and in the interim I should prepare specifications of contracts and proceed with the construction of some temporary buildings.
I shall pay Mr Barnicoat up to the 11th at my own expense, as I proposed to do, but I beg to state here that when I made that arrangement I had secured from you the offer of my present temporary appointment at the salary of each office, Agent and Surveyor in the Settlement of Nelson, and that I had no knowledge of any reduction having been made, or contemplated in the salary of the Resident Agent of Nelson, an office which was previously but inadequately paid for.
I trust you will, as you have intimated to be your intention, visit yourself this locality and judge for yourself of the most necessary preliminary works pending the arrival of the settlers.
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The extent of building ground where I have landed is very limited, and such is the case on each side of the Harbour, the Settlers and their effects ought, in my judgement to be landed at the head of the Harbour, and for this purpose two large boats (each of 5 Tons) would be required, which the Company need not to man, but let them to some competent person on conditions of his landing persons and goods at a fixed price. Similar, but more extensive arrangements would be necessary at the Matau (on Molineux Bay). Emigrant vessels might proceed there with such passengers as were desirous of immediately occupying their Land, and of their entire satisfaction and success I should then feel confident.
I can not refrain from again representing the urgent necessity which exists for discouraging adventurers from flocking here from older settlements. We have already one lot from Taranaki, and when fifty squatters shall have encroached, it will be impossible without removing them to subdivide the land into sections of a quarter of an acre, not to consider the contention that will arise on the arrival of the emigrants, when they find the best ground preoccupied. If the Company are desirous of extending their operations and forming other Settlements, and each successive Settlement is to possess the best remaining District, the next Settlement will consist of the lands north of Otago, and the consequent concentration of capital and enterprise will atchieve (sic. achieve) the first success of colonisation in New Zealand.
Allow me in conclusion to express a hope that if I have occasioned you unexpected and unnecessary trouble by my impatience under the vexations of office, for which I admit my disqualification, by temper and taste, you will be convinced, that whilst in office I have at least done my best and am sincerely desirous to prevent any impediment to the progress of the affairs of the Settlement, by communicating all the information which I have derived, and my own opinions, under the circumstance, if such are of any value.
Frederick Tuckett.
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PS. If the Maoris are not willing to live out of the District, I have delineated, and insist on extensive Reserves within it, it would be my wish to make some such reduction by substituting an equal portion of Land in a new District North of Otago, between the Totara and Waikawaite Rivers.
To J. J. Symonds. -- June 17th 1844.
I beg to assure you that I have not the most distant conception of what you allude to by the expression "in consequence of my extraordinary conduct and correspondence" if it refers to letters which were not addressed to you, there is no room for any explanation, if you have been misinformed by others, I can only assure you that I am most anxious for the speedy arrangement of the purchase of lands from the native proprietors, and whilst I acquiesce in your decision, as regards time, I only desire that it might have been yet more speedily effected.
Frederick Tuckett.
To David Scott (the Interpreter). -- Otago, June 18th 1844.
Mr Tuckett having informed Mr Symonds that "the contemplated proceeding (that is the inspection of the boundaries of the intended purchase) has excited the dissatisfaction of the Maori Chiefs, that it has been imputed to him (Mr Tuckett) as his wish and act by Taiaroa, accompanied by a very strong expression of his antipathy". I request you will enquire, whether the dissatisfaction described by Mr Tuckett exists amongst the Maori chiefs & generally what are their sentiments respecting the intended purchase of land, and let me know the result of your enquiry.
D. Wakefield.
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To F. Tuckett. -- Otago, June 18th 1844.
With reference to your letter of yesterdays date, I have the honour to inform you that as I presume you are in possession of copies of the letters you are pleased to address to Mr Wakefield, for my information and your own communication to myself, you can judge whether the matter contained therein be sufficient to justify the step which I appraised you it is my intention to resort to.
I also beg leave to state, that the information of others has in no way influenced me, but that I have acted, and act entirely upon the instructions entrusted to me by His Excellency the Governor and His Honour the Superintendent of the Southern District.
John Jermyn Symonds.
To J. J. Symonds. -- Otago, June 18th 1844.
I beg to acquaint you that it is my intention, on the expected arrival today of a party of Maoris from Waikawaite, to address the assembled Aborigines, in explanation of the objects of my visit here, as well as to ask their permission to remain.
Frederick Tuckett.
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To D. Wakefield. -- Otakou, June 18th 1844.
In reply to your letter of this days date stating that Mr Tuckett had informed Mr Symonds, that the contemplated arrangement of inspecting the boundaries of the intended purchase has excited the dissatisfaction of the Native Chiefs and requesting me to enquire whether this dissatisfaction described by Mr Tuckett exists among them and what are the sentiments respecting the intended purchase of lands. I beg to state that since my arrival here I have had a number of conversations with the principal Chiefs and natives generally, on both the subjects to which you refer, but more particularly this morning with "Tuhawaike", "Taiaroa", "Pakaui" and "Karetas" (Lucky White) who severally distinctly expressed themselves highly satisfied with, the arrangements, of pointing out and fixing the general boundary of the intended purchase, as well as the portions they wish to reserve, to prevent any future misunderstanding with the settlers, and they are all, (Chiefs and dependents without any exceptions) to my knowledge willing to sell the block described in Mr Tuckett's Sketch Plan, subject to the reserves I have mentioned, with a copy of which they have been furnished and which was carefully examined and explained in my presence at a general meeting of the Natives this morning, the result of which was an unanimous expression of their anxiety to complete the transaction with as little delay as possible.
David Scott.
This letter regarding the dissatisfaction of the Maori with the inspection of the boundaries is contradictory, firstly Scott writes that the Maori are satisfied regarding the inspection and ends by saying they wish as little delay as possible. It would appear that Scott is trying to imply what his "employer" wishes.
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Note to J. J. Symonds from F. Tuckett. -- June 17th 1844.
Frederick Tuckett presents his compliments to J. J. Symonds and requests to know whether it would be agreeable to him to attempt an explanation of the misunderstanding which appears to have come? between Mr Symonds and himself, officially through the mediation of, or in the presence of Dr Munroe. He is most anxious that the interests of others should not suffer from his own incapacity for official correspondence, and has no knowledge of having given Mr Symonds any ground of offence.
Note from J. J. Symonds to F. Tuckett. -- June 17th 1844.
Mr Symonds presents his compliments to Mr Tuckett and begs leave to inform him that if the matter at issue were of a private instead of a public nature, he would feel most happy to avail himself of Dr Munroe's mediation.
Under existing circumstances he cannot accede to the proposed arrangement.
To F. Tuckett. -- Otakou, June 19th 1844.
With reference to your letter of the 18th inst. In which you inform me that the contemplated proceeding, viz the inspection of the boundaries of the intended purchase, has excited the dissatisfaction of the Maori chiefs, that it has been imparted to you, as your wish, and act, by "Taiaroa", accompanied by a very strong expression of his antipathy - I have the honour to transmit for your information the undated correspondence on the subject with which I have been provided by Mr Wakefield.
John Jermyn Symonds.
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To Col. Wm. Wakefield. -- Otago, June 19th 1844.
On the 17th instant I received from Mr Symonds and Mr Wakefield the enclosed letter, to Mr Symonds I replied privately requesting to be allowed to attempt an explanation of our official misunderstanding, in the presence of Dr Munroe. On the 18th I received a note from Mr Symonds declining to afford such opportunity of explanation, the same morning I sent for Mr Scott, the Interpreter who accompanied Mr Wakefield, and enquired of him if he was willing to interpret an address from me, as Agent of the New Zealand Company, to the natives here assembled, to which he replied (in the presence of witnesses) that he only came here to assist in the purchase for the N. Z. Company, whose agent he understood I was. I then requested him to assist me in effecting the purchase, on which he replied that he had been informed by Mr Kelham that he was to act under the directions of Mr Wakefield, and that as the purchase was not likely to be made he should leave the place, or words to that effect. I then wrote to Mr Symonds to acquaint him "that on the expected arrival of a Party of Maoris from Waikawaite, it was my intention to address the assembled aborigines on the objects of my visit, and to ask their permission to remain". Subsequently I received a letter from Mr Symonds in reply to mine of the 17th instant in which he attaches to a letter sent by me to Mr Wakefield for his information. I most distinctly disallow that I have sent any letters to Mr Wakefield for his Mr Symonds information, if he intends to intimate that it was intended that he should peruse them. The whole rupture between Mr Symonds and myself has been occasioned by the acts of Mr Wakefield in handing to Mr Symonds, for perusal, my letters to Mr Wakefield of the 13th and 16th inst., which were intended merely to put Mr Wakefield in possession of what appeared to me to be the practical inconveniences and difficulties attending the execution of the measures proposed by
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Mr Symonds, in order that Mr Wakefield might endeavour to induce Mr Symonds to modify his intentions. In the afternoon, no boat having arrived from Waikawaite, I addressed the Maoris and did my best to explain to them the objects of my expedition, and pressed them to give me the names of all the Proprietors of Land in the District which I wished to purchase, to state some reasonable amount of payment in money or goods for which they would alienate the Lands, the amount to be paid to each Proprietor & also, if not disposed to sell the whole District, to delineate, that which they wished to reserve, on the Plan. Their expectations are perfectly childish, in fact they have no idea of the amounts which they specify, and which are too extravagant to be worth recording. I have no doubt they will eventually take whatever sum is determined on by the purchaser as the maximum that shall be given, especially if such sum shall be considered sufficient by the Government Representative.
But I fear they will adhere to their present determination to reserve a large portion of land on Otago Harbour, at present they only offer the entire Western side and the head and propose to retain the whole of the Eastern side, where there is more available land than on the Western, but I think they will submit to relinquish the Eastern side of the upper Harbour. The water on the Eastern side is generally shoal. Their argument is this, "buy and pay for the Western side first, and when you want more we will treat with you", they are no doubt advised by some of their European connections in this matter, and for their interests the advice is certainly good. There will certainly be some difficulty about the extent of the Reserves, but the most difficult part to determine is to whom the money shall be paid, and how much to each. Tuawaite decides this point before them all very arbitrarily, by claiming it for himself, Tiroa & Kautui. The latter is more just and has dictated to a young Maori penman a succession of names of Proprietors at Otago and Tearea, of which I enclose a copy.
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They had been previously informed by Mr Symonds that he should return to Wellington and that no money would be paid to them until the return of the Government Representative, and although much disappointed and vexed at having assembled together fruitlessly, they were friendly towards me and assured me that I might remain here with their consent and approbation.
Armed by yourself up to so recent a period of your approbation of my previous official conduct, I feel perfect confidence, that if it appears to you that I have been wronged, you will justify and support me, whatever may be the station or name of my accusers, and that if it appears to you that I have been in the wrong, you will afford me a full and fair opportunity of justifying myself further.
Frederick Tuckett.
PS Otago June 20th.
I enclose letters from Mr Symonds yesterday, after his decision to return to Wellington.
To D. Wakefield. Otago, June 20th 1844.
Having written a representation to the Principal Agent of the New Zealand Company, Col. Wakefield, of what I conceive to be conduct on your part injurious to the affairs of the settlement and to myself as the acting Agent, and being prevented from preparing another copy, as I had hoped to have done, in consequence of being again occupied in a deferred negotiation with the Maori Proprietors in order to obtain from them for transmission to Wellington a definite offer of the Lands which I wish to purchase for the N. Z. Company. I beg to acquaint you that I have requested in my letter to the Principal Agent that these representations of mine may be there laid before you.
Frederick Tuckett.
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The foregoing 23 letters and notes from June 15th to June 20th are all concerned with the "conflict" between Frederick Tuckett and John Jermyn Symonds over the purchase from the Maoris of the land for the Settlement, a conflict not helped by Daniel B. Wakefield showing letters written to him by F. T. to J. J. S. and appearing to take his side, no doubt D. B. W. was taking "the long view" and considering his own future rather than that of his employer the New Zealand Company.
When reading these letters it will be hard to understand how three grown men could be so "childish" as to expend so much useless energy in this correspondence whilst living so close together in, what must have been, a rather uncomfortable encampment, when a meeting to discuss what were really simple problems could easily have sorted matters out. In view of the lack of evidence about any other underlying reasons, the reader will have to form his own judgement on the matter.
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To Col. Wm. Wakefield. -- Otago, June 20th 1844.
Annexed is an offer of the land which I would recommend should be accepted, subject to obtaining the approbation of the Government, and its decision to whom the money shall be paid, and in what proportions to each Proprietor. Unassisted by any competent interpreter and refused by Mr Symonds his superintendence of the purchase, I have done my best to forward it. On the enclosed tracing of the survey of the lower & outer Harbour, is a place on the west side called Otauhikuo?, generally called Otahuti by the Europeans, this is claimed by the sister of Tiroa, the wife of Chasland, the latter has written to John Jones requesting him to maintain his wife's claim and not to sell it. The Maoris have offered it notwithstanding, on my refusal to recommend the purchase of the land if they reserved any on the Western side of the Harbour.
The fact is John Jones wishes to establish himself here immediately as a merchant, and of course does not like to lay out money as a squatter, if a water frontage section in the Town is given to him by the Company, in return for his assistance and influence, he will endeavour to persuade the natives to abandon any land which we wish to acquire, if this cannot be done he will probably induce the natives to make a Reserve, which will answer his purpose, for the occupation of which he will negotiate with them. He will oppose our purchasing the Tiaua? Island, occupied by him at present as a Whale Fishery. I have replied to his representations that it is my duty to secure for the Settlement such lands as appear to me to be the most valuable, referring him to the Government Representative for the maintenance of any right which he may imagine he possesses. I am of the opinion that it would be advisable to endeavour to meet his wishes here by giving to him, or Chasland's wife, a Town Section with a water frontage, or else that it will be necessary to provide a sum
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of over Two hundred Pounds beyond that demanded by the Proprietors for the Lands which they have offered, to extinguish all claims to Land on which the natives are not actually residing.
The Maori chief wished to obtain from me a promise of the sum of Twenty Four Hundred Pounds, which I informed them it was not in my power to make, that I would recommend that it should be given, but that I believed it was your present intention not to exceed the sum of Twenty hundred Pounds, £2000.
I enclose a copy of a letter to Mr Symonds of the 17th inst. which I believe I omitted yesterday.
To the convenience of Parties desirous of contracting for the Survey of Lands, it will be necessary to afford them either an assurance that at the outset they may obtain here from the N. Z. Company store a supply of rations, or else that in the event of any surveyor coming here with a supply of rations, such stores, provided his Tender be not accepted, will be purchased of him by the N. Z. Company, provided they are of good quality, and at the market price at the time purchased.
Frederick Tuckett.
PS. Incessant occupation up to this evening prevents me from furnishing Mr Wakefield with extracts from my correspondence of those parts which refer to him, of this I have informed him and referred him to you for such copies, or the perusal of the originals.
With the departure of Symonds, Wakefield and possibly Scott, Tuckett was able to get on with his negotiations with the Maoris and make the following "agreement" (subject to the Government's approval and the signing of a deed) for the lands detailed in his sketch map, which probably gave him some excuse to start work on surveying.
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Tuckett overcame the restriction of being unable to survey until the lands had been purchased by exploring an area of, what he thought, was about 400,000 acres, from which he intended to survey the 150,000 acres he needed for the Settlement. It is as well to remember this when reading the extracts from the Ngai Tahu Land Report that are included in the comments on pages 119 to 125.
