APPENDIX
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APPENDIX
REPORT ON CONDITIONS ON THE PLAINS, IN REPLY TO CAPTAIN THOMAS.
Riccarton, near Port Cooper, 20th January, 1849.
Dear Sir,--In order to perform the promise we made of furnishing you with a statement of our experience for the last six years as settlers in this district, we shall now answer in their order the queries you left with us, and afterwards add a few observations not embraced in them.
1st. 'As to the weather,' August, September, and October are the spring months. These months may be said to be pretty much of the same description as the spring months in England, with this exception, that here we have a greater number of fine warm days; there are likewise generally a few frosty mornings at the commencement of this season. The summer season includes the months of November, December, and January. There has been considerable variation in the character of the weather during the summers we have been here; some of them have been very dry, and in others we have had more or less rain during almost every week of their continuance; this season, however, may be said generally to include a large proportion of fine warm weather, with some very hot days, and occasional gales of wind. February, March, and April are autumn months, and during these we have always experienced the finest weather of the year--mild, calm days, with frequent showers, are the general characteristics of these months, but at a distance from the sea coast, and in the neighbourhood of swamps, there are usually slight frosts towards the latter end of autumn. The winter includes the months of May, June, and July. We have likewise experienced a considerable difference in these months during each season we have resided here; fine calm days, and frequent frosty and cold nights and mornings, and an occasional gale of wind from the south-west, with heavy rain, may be said, however, to be the description of this season, with a greater or smaller proportion of each in every year. During each winter we have had two or three falls of snow, but it never has exceeded four or five inches in depth on the plain--never interferes with cattle or sheep feeding, usually disappears in the course of twenty-four hours, and has never lain more than two or three days at any one time. The frosts generally disappear before 11 o'clock a. m.
2nd. 'As to crops, times of sowing, etc.' Every description of crops should be sown in April, May, or June; artificial grasses should likewise be sown during these months, or earlier, if the ground be moist. Potatoes may be planted from the end of August till the end of November, or even December, if near the sea coast, but it is not desirable to plant them either so early as the first, or so late as the last mentioned months, as the stalks of very early or late crops are liable to be slightly nipped by frost, but we have never observed any material damage the crops have sustained through this cause. We
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have always had early potatoes ready to dry by Christmas, and pease and cabbages at the same time, never getting less than seven tons, and once nearly twenty tons to the acre, and except a few early ones planted in the garden, we never now manure this crop, which is generally of excellent quality. The harvesting of wheat, barley, and oats takes place in the months of January or February. We have had remarkably fine crops of each of these both as regards quantity and quality, never having had less than twenty bushels of either to the acre, and we have had above sixty bushels, the difference in the quantity being attributable to the greater or less care with which the land has been prepared for the crop, and whether the season was favourable or unfavourable.
3rd. 'Opinion as farmers upon the open land of the plain generally.'
Except our garden and orchard, all our cultivations have been on an open, unsheltered part of the plain, which showed evident traces of having been heavily timbered at no distant period; but which, immediately previous to the time we broke it up, was covered with grass. Our opinion is, that in no part of the New Zealand Company's territories can equal crops of grain be grown at so small an expense as they can here on the open plain. The greater part of the plain is very little more difficult to break up with the plough than is old pasture land in England; and we feel confident that, taking an average of seasons, it will produce, one year with another, at least thirty bushels of wheat, barley, or oats to the acre; and that it will grow in perfection every grain and fruit common in England. You are aware that Van Diemen's Land and South Australia at present grow most of the grain used in the colonies in these seas; and it is a well ascertained fact, that in these two colonies the average crop of wheat does not exceed twenty-five bushels to the acre; so that we must confidently anticipate that the open land here will grow larger crops than can be produced in either of these colonies. Our opinion is, that you will be able to select in a block 1,000,000 acres of land, no portion of which need be distant from Port Cooper more than sixty miles; that of this 1,000,000 acres not more than one-third is unfit for present cultivation, and that a considerable portion of this one-third could be rendered available at a very slight outlay. The portions we consider not available are those near the sea beach, on the north and south of the high lands of the Peninsula, in the vicinity of the Waihola Lake, and a portion of the land adjacent to the banks of the Waimakariri, near its month, and a few other portions scattered over the plain; but we believe that you wish to be able to select a block of 1,000,000, in such a form as to exclude a large portion of the spots mentioned.
4th. 'As to the crops on bush land.'
Our opinion is, that the greatest part of the plain was covered with timber at no distant period, and that the bush land is not superior to the open land in any respect. We mean, that suppose a clump of timber was cut down and carried from the land, that the ground whereon that bush grew would not produce a larger crop than an equal extent of the land adjacent to it, which had been covered with timber, at some not very remote period; but if the timber was burned on the land, it might produce a better crop the first year than open land.
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5th. 'As to farming implements to be brought out, also the best kind of stock, as to bulls, cows, rams, ewes, and horses, to be imported.'
The farming implements to be brought out ought to be pretty much the same as those in use in England; but cart wheels and other bulky farming implements can be got from New South Wales cheaper and better than they can be brought from England. Horses would be generally used in preference to bullocks for agricultural purposes, and their harness should be lighter and smaller than that generally in use in England. With each emigrant vessel, a good Durham cow ought to be sent by the Association, and a few pure-bred Durham bulls should be likewise sent within the first year after the settlement is started; these might be sold by public auction to the settlers, with a certainty of their producing a profit above first cost, freight, insurance, and every other expense; and there is no doubt they would very much improve the breed of cattle from New South Wales, and confer a great benefit on the settlers. As there is a very extensive grazing district in this neighbourhood, and as the salting of beef of a superior quality for export will doubtless prove a profitable speculation, we would strongly advise that a few bulls of the Galloway breed should be sent out from time to time, and sold in the same manner as the others. We believe that there is no breed in England to equal the Galloway for beef--the best of the breed can be purchased in Galloway for an inconsiderable sum, and would be peculiarly suited to the natural pasturage of this country; and we feel assured that beef of that breed could be salted here superior to any sent to England from any other quarter. We ourselves would be glad to purchase a bull or two of that breed, at a price that would yield a considerable profit after paying first cost, freight, etc. Beyond a very few South Down rams, to improve the quality of the mutton of the colonial sheep, we would not advise that any rams should be imported, as fine-wooled sheep can be got from New South Wales superior to any in England. A few good draught horses should likewise be sent, of the Clydesdale, Suffolk Punch, or Cleveland breed, and sold in the same manner as the cattle. The breeding of thorough-bred horses for the Indian market would likewise prove a good speculation. You are aware that a good many of these are annually sent from New South Wales to that country, where they are bought at high prices; and we have it from one of the most extensive and successful breeders there, that, owing to the uncertainty of the seasons, the young horses there are frequently so starved as never to arrive at a good size, and their feet are apt to get out of order, which detracts very much from their value. As neither of these would happen here, there is little doubt that the breeding of thorough-bred horses for the Indian market would prove very beneficial to the settlement: and the Association would therefore contribute much to its prosperity if they were to send out a few stallions of good blood; but perhaps the settlement should first be started some time before sending them. From the facility with which immense quantities of wheat can be grown, it is of the utmost importance that mills, or the materials for mills, with thrashing-power attached, should accompany the first settlers: one water and one windmill would probably be sufficient at first. We would likewise recommend the settlers to bring seeds of the different varieties of English trees and hawthorn.
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6th. 'How stock thrive on plains--sheep, percentage of lambs yet obtained--weight of carcass, wool, etc. Quantity of stock at your station.'
All kinds of stock thrive amazingly. Cattle and sheep are fit for the butcher at all seasons; and they are never housed, either winter or summer. A married couple who came out from Scotland with us now manage a dairy of our cattle at Port Cooper; previous to emigrating, they were engaged as farm servants in Ayrshire, where a very superior lot of the celebrated Ayrshire cattle were kept; and they assure us that they make a larger quantity of butter and cheese during the year than they did at home from the same quantity of cows, and the quality is quite as good. The percentage of lambs to ewes we had this season was about 105 per cent. The sheep we have are small and fine-wooled--weight of wethers above 60 lbs.--the weight of wool on ewes, 3 1/2 lbs. The fleeces of our rams, which are pure merinos, averaged, this clip, 6 1/4 lbs., and one of the fleeces weighed 7 1/2 lbs. We may mention that the natural pasturage here will feed to perfection the largest breed of sheep. We have at present about 150 cattle, 1,000 sheep, and ten horses.
7th. 'At what price would you supply beef and mutton, and probable monthly supply?'
We could supply beef and mutton at 5d. per lb., and pork at 4d. at present, but not to any extent. With our own stock, and what we could procure otherwise, we would be able to supply your survey party on the plain with about one ton per month. We anticipate that the prices would exceed these sums on the arrival of a large party of settlers from England, but only for a short time, as supplies would quickly pour in from the neighbouring colonies and the other settlements in New Zealand.
8th. 'What price have you paid for timber, and opinion as to price in case a large quantity were advertised for.'
Sawn timber can now be got for 10s. or 12s. the 100 feet. There being only a small population here at present, we are unable to say at what price a large contract would be taken.
9th. 'As to bricks-clay for making ditto; lime, limestone, and building stone.'
There is plenty of brick clay in the neighbourhood, limestone is not distant; and there are masses of a stone more nearly resembling freestone that any we have previously seen in the hills surrounding Port Cooper.
10th. 'What per ton did flour and other provisions cost on first establishing your station, and what now?'
On first coming here, flour cost us about £25 per ton. Irish salt pork about £6 per cask of 200 lbs. Tea, 2s. per lb.; and sugar 4d. to 5d. per lb. Now, flour can be bought here from £16 to £18. No salted provisions are used, and tea and sugar are still about the same price.
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We believe that you have satisfied yourself that the making of a good road between Port Cooper and the Waimakariri is not only perfectly practicable, but can be made with the greatest facility; and that not only can the river itself be crossed by ferries, but that it is perfectly practicable and easy to make a bridge across it at an inconsiderable expense. We are certain that in no part of the New Zealand Company's territories can roads be made in every direction with such facility as they can on this plain; and that now in its natural state, there is no difficulty in traversing it in every direction with bullock drays.
The system of fencing which would be generally in use here would be by ditch and embankment, similar to what you have seen at our station, of which a good labourer would do at least two rods a day. Furze or hawthorn might be planted on the top of the embankment, and thus a good fence, which would last for centuries, might be easily made. We believe that this sort of fence would not cost more at first than one of post and rail, even where timber abounded; and from the perishable nature of the generality of New Zealand timber, it would certainly be the most economical in the end. Colonel Wakefield must have been misinformed as to the quantity of timber in this district, for we believe that there is at least an equal quantity here to what there is at Otago, but as you have now seen both districts, you can form a correct judgment as to this. It would certainly be desirable if there was more wood on the plain than there is, but we consider that it is much better as it is than if it had been so thickly timbered as the generality of bush land in New Zealand, for we are certain that to cultivate such land would never pay. A settler would do better to import coals from Newcastle, in New South Wales, from whence they can be got under 30s. per ton, landed in Port Cooper, than to clear bush land, for we are sure that for the expense he must incur in merely chopping and burning off the timber of one acre of bush land, he can supply himself with at least a twelve-months' supply of coals; and if the cost of stumping the land and rendering it fit for the plough were to be added, he would be able to get two years' supply of coals for what it would cost him to clear a single acre.
Having visited all the New Zealand Company's settlements, made repeated visits to the Wairarapa; traversed the country from Port Nicholson to Taranaki, and the whole of the east coast of this island; and after considerable experience in England as farmers, and for the last nine years in New Zealand, we can with some confidence congratulate you on being able to secure this district as the site for the Canterbury settlement; for, excepting the Taranaki district, which is without a harbour, inundated with natives, and already occupied by the New Plymouth settlement, we do not believe a suitable site could ever have been secured elsewhere in the Company's territory; and we are certain that no site equal to this is now open for selection Besides the 1,000,000 acres required for the New Settlement here, there are at least 3,000,000 acres surrounding it, the greater proportion of which, we belive, is good agricultural land; and all of this large tract is peculiarly adapted for the depasturing of stock. We mean the country from the Kai Koras to Moeraki, at both of which places vessels can anchor with tolerable safety.-- W. and J. Deans.
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AGREEMENT FOR SALE AND PURCHASE OF STOCK, ETC. AT THE MORVEN HILLS STATION, NOW DALETHORPE.
MEMORANDUM OF AGREEMENT made this seventh day of February Eighteen hundred and fifty-one BETWEEN John Charles Watts Russell Esquire of Lyttelton on the one part and William and John Deans of Riccarton Port Cooper Plains on the other part That is to say the said John Charles Watts Russell hath purchased and the said William and John Deans have sold to him all their sheep now grazing at the Morven Hills together with the house and sheep pens erected there and eleven Rams now depasturing in a Paddock at Riccarton such sheep house and sheep pens to be paid for at the Rates underwritten by Bills drawn by the said John Charles Watts Russell in favour of the said W. and J. Deans on Isaac Watts Russell of Ilam Hall Staffordshire England at Six months date to bear interest at the rate of Eight Pounds per cent, per annum from the first day of March Eighteen hundred and fifty-one till paid, and the said John Charles Watts Russell agrees to meet the said William and John Deans or one of them at the Station on the said first day of March 1851 and then and there take delivery of the sheep etc. The following are the Rates at which the sheep are sold viz. Five hundred and fifty ewes at the rate of Twenty-five shillings each Five hundred and fifty ewes at the rate of Twenty-two shillings and sixpence each and the remainder of the ewes and wethers (about Four hundred and fifty more or less) to be paid for at the rate of one pound per head. The Lambs (Six hundred more or less) to be paid for at the rate of Twelve shillings each. The Eleven Rams at Riccarton are to be paid for at the rate of Seven pounds each. The house and sheep pens are sold for Eighty pounds.
Signed, Sealed and Delivered at Riccarton this seventh day of February, 1851, before and in the presence of
J. C. Watts Russell.
Will Deans.
John Deans.
D. Macfarlane, agent for Mr. Russell.
* * * *
HOMEBUSH JOURNAL, 1851.
Extracts from the Diary of James Robinson Clough, better known as "Jimmy Robinson," who was stockman at Homebush in the early 'fifties. Clough was present at the hoisting of the British flag at Akaroa in 1840, and was afterwards employed by the Greenwood brothers at Motunau, before going to Homebush.
Wednesday, 1st October, 1851.--Left Riccarton, got to the River Hawkins.
2nd.--Got to Homebush.
3rd.--Mr. Deans left here for Riccarton, we had a very heavy hailstorm.
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5th.--I went to the Hawkins, seen 18 head of cattle and killed two pigs.
9th.--Mr. Russell 1 and Mr. Wakefield 2 stopped all night and Wakefield's servant.
10th.--Russell, Wakefield, Sam and the servant left here. Sam came back, had found 11 strange head of cattle at the Rakiha. 3
11th.--Sam and me went to the Waimokaretia, 4 we parted there; on my return I saw a brindle cow with a white off flank at the racecourse hill, she had a young calf.
12th.--Killed three fine pigs.
14th.--Weartly 5 and Hanmore 6 came here, stopped two nights then went to Russell's Station.
16th.--Mr. Deans and Mr. Williams 7 came here.
17th.--Mr. Deans and me went to look at a bush.
18th.--Mr Deans went above the gorge to look for cattle, me and Abner went down the Kittekitte, brought home 43 head of cattle.
19th.--Mr. Deans and Mr. Williams left here for Riccarton. I could not find the cattle I brought yesterday.
21st.--I found the cattle at the Winokrite 8 and 26 head more with them, brought them to the hills.
24th.--A very hard frost.
26th.--Tod 9 and Pribble 10 came here with cart and dray and stuff for stockyard.
27th.--Tod and Pribble went home with 14 pigs.
30th.--Wakefield and his man came here, stopped all night.
Sunday, 2nd November.--Wakefield and me went up the river, found four seams of coal, killed three pigs.
5th.--Donald came here. Brought old Jack. Stopped four days.
11th.--Mr. Deans, Russell, Sam Archer and Black Fern came with stuff for the stockyard; stopped all night.
12th.--Mr. Deans, Russell went to Russell Station. 11
13th.--Mr. Deans, Russell came back, had lost their horses. Stayed all night went to Riccarton.
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21st.--Archer and three others came with stuff for stockyard and stopped two nights.
25th.--Pribble and another man brought stuff for stockyard, stopped all night.
28th.--Mr. Lee 12 and his man came here looking for horses; stopped all night.
30th.--Dr. Draper 13 and Fitchgerlad 14 came here.
Monday, 1st December.--Rain hard all day, we have had some rain every day since the 5th of November.
2nd.--Pribble came with cart. A strange man came looking for work.
3rd.--Mr. Deans and Sam brought some cattle.
4th.--Mr. Deans cut three and branded eight calves. Mr. Russell and Fendle 15 and three other men to look at the coal. We had ten this night.
5th.--Mr. Deans, Russell and Fendle left for Riccarton with some cattle.
6th.--Sam and Pribble went pig hunting, Sam came back.
7th.--Sam left here; this is the first fine day since the 5th of November.
9th.--Archer and three others came with timber for house. Wakefield and servant came for pleasure.
11th.--Wakefield and servant left for pleasure.
12th.--Sam came and a man from Stordards. 16 I brought 31 cows and calves from the Wimokarite.
16th.--Sam brought some strange cattle here and some of Deanses with them.
17th.--Sam left here for Riccarton with 27 head of cattle.
23rd.--A very strong N. W. hurricane.
30th.--Strange man came here from Stordards, been lost two days, very sick.
Thursday, 1st January, 1852.
2nd.--Russell and two other men on horseback with him stopped all night.
8th.--Tod brought some boards and scantling. Pribble brought shingles.
9th.--A cow had twins. Sparks came here, stopped four days and would not go.
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15th.--Russell and Cookson 17 stopped all night.
16th.--Mr. Williams and Cridland 18 have stopped two nights.
18th.--Mr. Brown and another man stopped all night.
20th.--Dolton 19 came with some scantling and flour.
22nd.--Mr. Tankard 20 and two other men on horse came here. Stopped four nights, rain all the time very hard.
26th.--Two men on horse came here; stopped all night.
29th.--Mr. Cridland and Dr. Draper stopped all night.
30th.--Mr. Distant and another man stopped here all night.
31st.--Mr. Disher and six others stopped here all night; we have had 11 live calves and 2 dead ones this month. Cattle all right and doing well.
Sunday, 1st February.--No company.
6th.--Mr. Torless 21 shepherd and Mr. Farlaner 22 shepherd stopped here all night. Mr. Cridland went to Lyttelton.
9th.--Mr. Lyon, 23 Wakefield and Cridland came here.
10th.--Mr. Cass, 24 Le Crane, 25 Caverill, 26 Sam and six others came here. We had 16 here.
11th.--Branded 57 calves, cut 22, saved 14 bulls, counted all the other cattle; 201 of them strangers. Mr. Godley, 27 Russell, and parson came here; we only had 15 in the house.
12th.--They have all left me, thank God, but Mr. Cridland, Wakefield has been here four nights.
13th.--The parson returned from Russell's station.
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14th.--Mr. Cridland and the parson left for Riccarton. Cridland has been 14 nights.
15th.--We had three men from Studard this week; we have had 40 odd including myself, last Monday 5, Tuesday 16, Wednesday 15, Thursday 3, Friday 4, Saturday 4, Sunday 5. There has been 51 lodged here in 7 days,
18th.--Mr. Tankard and Percival 28 stopped here two nights.
21st.--Sam tried to take four head of cattle to Riccarton. They would not leave Homebush.
29th.--Mr. Studham 29 and Mr. Howard stopped here all night looking for cattle. We have had seven living calves and seven dead this month. The cattle are all right with the exception of one that has gone away to calve (she is a dark Grizley). I have had to tail the cattle on foot this five weeks as I have had no saddle. Dolton brought me a saddle on the 5th of March.
Wednesday, 3rd March.--Mr. Tankard came here on the way to his station, stopped all night.
5th.--Mr. Tankard's dray came here and four of his men stopped all night. Dolton came from Riccarton with the cart.
6th.--Mr. Tankard broke his leg. One of his men went to Christchurch for the doctor.
7th.--Dr. Barker 30 and Sam came here; sent Abner for Dr. Draper.
9th.--Dr. Barker and Sam, Dr. Draper left here.
10th.--Wakefield and his servant came here for pleasure. Dr. Barker and eight other men came to take Mr. Tancard away; we had sixteen in the house.
11th.--Two men came here from Mr. Russell's station; stopped all night; there is a white cow died to-day; she has been sick ever since she came here.
13th.--Dolton came with some pailing and flour. Dr. Draper stopped here all night.
15th.--Dolton left here for Riccarton. Mr. Tancard's man left here. I went with him to show him where their station was; he has been here eleven days. I have turned the cattle behind the hills this day for the first time; they are all correct.
17th.--McFarlane and Cookson and their man came here; they were going for coal.
19th.--Sam and Bill left here for Riccarton with twelve head of cattle.
22nd.--It blew a hurricane from the west.
24th.--Mr. Tancard's man went to their station; has been here five days; Abner went with him with the horse to carry things.
25th.--Sam came here, brought 25 head young and old, five of them branded. Three cows of the old breed for Duncan, the rest are all calves.
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26th.--Rowe 31 came here to take charge of the stock.
27th.--Mustered them and all were correct; 280 young and old. Sam came here, has been to Russell's station.
29th.--Rowe left here for Riccarton. Mr. Hughlan and three men came here surveying.
30th.--Dr. Draper came here and stopped two nights.
Thursday, 1st April.--A strange man came here; had been lost two days looking for Lake's station. Mr. Ross 32 came here the same day, had been lost all night on his way to Mr. Tancard's station; one of Hughlan's men came here the same day to borrow the handsaw to cut mile posts.
5th.--It blew a hurricane from the west. This is the fourth gale I have had since I have been here, all from the west.
7th.--I went to Riccarton, got drunk and stopped two days after my leave from Mrs. Williams. 33
19th.--Mustered the cattle all night. Duncan came here to-day, seen the cattle and said he would take them. Holland and Davis came here looking for sheep and cattle.
20th.--A policeman and one of Templer's men came here looking for a man that stole a blanket. While they were here the man came in with the stolen blanket. Mr. Row and me have been three days and cannot find a pig.
23rd.--Two men came here with dray; going for coal; stopped here two nights.
25th.--Mr. Studard came here; stopped all night.
26th.--Mustered the cattle; five short of the number. Mr. Cridland came here to-day.
28th.--Mr. Godley and Mr. Russell came here; stopped all night.
29th.--Mr. Rowe went to Riccarton and Abner. I found the cattle that were missing. Three calves this month. Cattle all right.
1st May.--Dr. Hogg, Holland, and Mr. Lee came; stopped all night.
2nd.--Mr. Ross came here; stopped all night.
4th.--Port Philip men just arrived in the dray; stopped here all night, and two of the survey men mustered the cattle this day. All correct. I found a red cow of the new breed dead this day. Supposed to have died calving; has been dead some time.
10th.--Rowe left here for Riccarton; the two Mr. Bealeys came here; stopped two nights looking at their station.
12th.--A man came here looking for a cow that he bought from Mr. Williams.
13th.--Two very suspicious men came here; said they had come from Otago.
15th.--Black Fern came here looking for some working bullocks.
16th.--I saw such a sight in the sky that I never saw before.
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19th.--Four pig-hunters came here; stopped all night.
20th.--Rowe came here; stopped three days.
21st.--Tod came with the winter's store.
25th.--A strange gentleman came here looking for a sheeprun.
28th.--Mr. Tancard, Mr. Fitton 34 and Mr. Ross came here; stopped night.
29th.--Rowe and Sam came and brought nineteen head of cattle, seventeen heifers, one steer, and 1 cow.
Friday, 4th June.--A man came here, lost his way going to Studards.
5th.--Snow all day.
9th.--Sam left here for Riccarton. We lost the horse to-day.
11th.--Mr. Cass, Caverhill, Sam Bealey, Laury 35 and two other men came here.
12th.--Branded thirteen young calves, eight of them was cut, the other five was heifers, and cut two of them that was saved for bulls branded last February.
13th.--There were six horsemen left here.
19th.--One of Sturdard's men came here for tobacco. Rain two days.
22nd.--Mustered the cattle; all correct.
25th.--Ross came here; stopped all night. I found Jack.
26th.--Found a cow with twin calves by the racecourse hill; took eight of ours and got her home.
30th.--Mr. Sturdhard stopped here.
5th.--Snow all day.
6th.--Four men of Bealeys stopped two of them two days.
9th.--Mustered the cattle. All correct.
10th.--Rowe and Abner left here for Riccarton with four cows for home use.
13th.--Rowe and Abner came here; had lost the four cows they were taking to Riccarton for home use. This is the first day the cattle have not been seen since I have had them. Rain all day.
15th.--Disher and four others stopped here two days. Bad weather.
18th.--Rowe left here to look for the four cows he had lost last week. This is the first fine day we have had this six days, rain and snow all the time.
23rd.--Four pig-hunters came here. They got a cool reception; did not stop here.
30th.--Mustered the cattle; all correct.
31st.--Sam and Archer came here; brought thirteen head of cattle.
Monday, 2nd August.--Sam and Archer took six cows and two bullocks; one no brand, the other branded D.
4th.--Rain all day; not seen the cattle to-day.
6th.--Rowe left here for Riccarton for provisions.
8th.--We have got nine potatoes in the house; that is all we have to eat.
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11th.--Two pilgrims came here on horse; stopped all night. I had but one duck and some eggs in the house to eat with a few small potatoes which they did eat and bid me good morning and said they hoped I would be better off when they came this way again.
13th.--Rowe came home, brought a little flour. I have been six days and not tasted bread, meat or tea. Four more pilgrims came here; they seen a small damper and asked me if I had baked it for them; they were quite shocked as I had not got a privey for them.
14th.--Dolton came with the dray and young Smart and another man, Mr. Porter.
31st.--Sam left here for Riccarton; been here seven days. Bob Day came here; stopped all night, very sick.
Saturday, 4th September.--Two Mr. Knights came here; stopped two nights.
5th.--Mr. Cunningham and Mr. Sanderson 36 came here; stopped all night.
11th.--The two Knights and their two servants came here; stopped all night.
12th.--Mr. Russell here for me to go to Christchurch,
13th.--I went down; stopped eight days. Drunk.
22nd.--Me and Sam came.
27th.--Mr. Sturdhard came here for some assistance to catch his horses.
28th.--Mr. Rowe went with Mr. Sturdard.
29th.--Mr. Knight and his man came here. Stopped all night. There were ten people here while I was away at Christchurch. September concludes and the stock are all correct. I have kept a twelve months log of all the people that have been here and of any remarkable event, so I shall knock off on the last of September.
Saturday, 27th October.--Two left here for Riccarton with Caverhill and the heifers.
Tuesday, 7th December.--Rowe left here to look for horses; was three days away.
12th January, 1853.--Rowe left here for Riccarton with three head two cows and a bullock for the butcher.
15th.--Rowe came here with three head of cattle, one cow branded C, two steer branded D.
16th.--Rowe and Abner went behind the hills to look for gold.
Wednesday, 23rd February.--Rowe left here for good.
LETTERS FROM ROBINSON CLOUGH TO JOHN DEANS.
Homebush, 5th July, 1853.
We killed a heifer on the 20th weighing 720 lbs. shanks and all, and Mr. Tankered's man had one half and Harper had 60 lbs., so I had 300 lbs. for ourselves. Mr. Russell's shepherd has often given
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me a little mutton suet, so in remuneration I gave him a good beefsteak. I mention this so that nothing of the kind shall be done without yon knowing it. I think I shall have to kill a beast for Mr. Bealey on Thursday. Sir, the morning we put the things on the cart we left the rose cuttings and that onion and hen eggs and the young oaks where I put them (it being dark). We mustered the stock on Friday. All correct. I don't know what they eat, they are still very fat and never leave their old beat. I hope you will be kind enough to give me two more grafted apple trees. I have got four and two more will make one row along the bank of the creek. We are all very well, stock and all are doing very well.
30th August, 1853.
I have sent for Captain Harvey 37 two young bullocks. You will see them. They are the two black ones. The other six are what was branded for him when he was up here, and I have sent one brindle bullock for Charley and I have sent Bruce to save his life for the rest of the bulls knock him all to pieces and we should never be able to drive him down with the rest of the bulls. In all there is thirteen head, three of them are heifers, Mr. Rankin's. Sir, I should be very glad if you would let me sport five guineas at the Cattle Show. I should like to show Cornel and two cows and my heifer and one of yours and chance the money if you will not show any cattle nor allow me. I can see a better show than they will have every day. Everything is very comfortable up here and the stock are all correct and I am glad to hear you are all well, particularly the young Mr. Deans.
24th September, 1853.
One of the cows that I was going to send to the Show has calved. They are all doing very well and a great many that had dead calves last year have got live ones this. I have not seen a dead calf yet since they commenced calving. There was five calved last Saturday and Sunday. All correct and look which way I will I can see fresh calves or some cows springing; two of them young heifers that Charley the butcher and Mr. Rankin brought up as maiden heifers have got a fine calf each. I should like to put all the calvers in one mob, but I cannot as I am situated at present for old Jack has got a bad back ever since Abner came home with the calves he is that thin the saddle fits him like a shirt on a handspike. Abner got home that day by four o'clock, he brought 17 calves, 13 heifers, and 4 steers. If you recollect I sent you word some time back that there was five mistakes about three or four months since I think by all appearance that will be all for the very fattest of them has got live calves, but they are very small. I think we shall have a very lucky season.
Sir, I do not think my heifer is three year old till December next, for when you and Mr. Russell took the heifers down the last time you was here before you went home she was sucking and her mother did not calve again till March, so by that she cannot be three years old yet. I am very sorry to hear that Mr. Rankin is taken with them sicknesses again, for he has told me of them and the doctors that I have often wondered how he lived; the Sunday before he went down he bathed in our creek and on Sunday evening and Monday he looked as if all the blood in his body was in his face, he looked so red.
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I wish he was well again for the place seems quite dead without him. We had some happy evenings last winter with his music. I thought his sickness had quite left him and I think if he had been at home it would not have happened. He has often been much excited here with pig hunting and the cattle and high rivers to cross, and nothing of the kind every happened. It is a great pity and I am very sorry. Sir, I am you obedient servant.
Sir, we cannot yard the cattle for we have no horse and there is so many young calves, but the number is all correct--314.
DIARY OF JOHN DEANS ON HIS VOYAGE HOME IN 1852.
1st January, 1852.--Got luggage on board the barque Cornwall and sailed for Wellington about 10 o'clock at night.
2nd.--Light southerly wind. p.m. Becalmed off the Kaikouras.
3rd.--Southerly wind--sight Wellington Heads in the afternoon and anchor at 12 at night.
4th, Sunday.--Went on shore to Lyon to breakfast, and heard that the Clara was likely to sail for Valparaiso in a few days.
5th.--Strong gale from N. W. with showers. No news.
6th.--Accompany the Lyons to Woodlands and afterwards see Captain Potter about passage to Valparaiso.
7th.--Got things on board and expect to sail, but the ship not ready.
8th.--Go on board to see if ship would sail, but find that the crew had refused to weigh, without two additional men.
9th.--Vessel getting under way--go on board and got out the harbour with fine breeze--water outside smooth--when off Paliser Bay, was high and baffling--evening, strong wind from N. N. E., close hauled, going 7 knots.
10th.--a.m. Wind the same. Sea rougher. Have a slight attack of sea sickness; p.m. Wind lighter but fair.
11th.--Sunday.--Fine breeze from the N. W. Lower and top mast studding-sails set. Making about 7 knots?clear and fine--saw a ship in the distance about 10 o'clock at night.
12th.--Wind light and close hauled--very fine, p.m., changed to N. W. Set studding-sails.
13th.--Wind fair, but light--all sails set--very fine. Evening wind more from the east.
17th.--Wind rather more southerly, but ship won't lay her course--last two days very cold for the season--if we have not better luck soon, will make a long passage.
18th.--Sunday--After rolling about all night, a slight north-easter springs up about ten o'clock a. m. Albatrosses very tame--the men caught five before breakfast. Wind from the eastward in the afternoon.
19th.--Wind about as foul as it could be all day, and the weather close and foggy withal--no good to be done.
20th.--Wind and weather the same as yesterday; p.m., getting lighter and hope soon to get a fair wind.
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21st.--Weather hazy and wind foul. E. S. East--very cold and making too much to the northward.
22nd.--Wind and weather the same, but lighter. Still very cold. In the evening see a few stars.
23rd.--Wind the same--weather rather clearer. Commence painting boats, but slight showers interfere. After dinner shows symptoms of improving and the wind hauls aft a couple of points. A fortnight at sea to-day and not more done towards the passage than might have been in six days with a fair wind.
24th.--Wind rather fairer--weather cloudy but fine. p. m. Vessel laying her course.
25th, Sunday.--Wind fair. Studding sails set, and ship running from 5 to 7 knots--very pleasant day.
28th.--Made 207 knots last 24 hours--wind fair and gradually strengthening. Ship going 9 1/2. Still hazy.
29th.--Wind and weather the same--made 201 miles. The fog has been so dense for four or five days that no observations have been got for that time. Barometer is much higher to-day, some hope to see the sun shortly.
1st February.--Strong gale from the westward. Ship at times making better than 10 knots an hour. Clear, and the officers of the ship have got the latitude and longitude for the first time in six days. Made a splendid day's run--215 miles. Very cold and thermometer lower than we have yet had it--barometer is also falling fast, and Captain Potter expects bad weather.
2nd.--Wind a little more northerly but fair, and the sea lowered by the heavy rains in the night--made 197 miles. Barometer still falling, though I can see no visible cause for so doing except that the wind is at north-west. Warmer and finer than we have had it for some time.
7th.--Wind variable but fair till 8 o'clock a.m. when all sails were braced sharp up for the first time since the 24th ult. Weather very fine and the ship making within a point or two of her course. Noon. Wind fair and fresh--made 198 miles.
10th.--Wind strong and fair--weather cloudy. Made the best day's work that the ship has done since leaving England, viz., 216 miles.
13th.--Five weeks out to-day. After all, the passage may not be so very long as we at one time anticipated. Made a good day's run and the wind is still as favourable as we could wish--the weather also is improving daily. We have not so far been favoured with too much sun, but from what one hears of the coast of Peru, we will soon witness a clearer sky and settled weather.
14th.--Good breeze in the early part and made upwards of 100 miles when the wind came right ahead, but so light as to do us no harm except the delay. The sea is smooth as glass and the ship in the doldrums.
15th, Sunday.--Very little done last 24 hours--almost all of it being calm and the wind contrary--better symptoms for the next 24 hours as the wind is all but fair and gradually increasing--at noon, somewhere about 550 miles from our destination. Weather delightful, clear and warm without being oppressive. About 250 miles from Robinson Crusoe's island, Juan Fernandes.
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16th.--Made a good day's run?wind half the time from the N. W., then changed to the southward. A very heavy shower in the night. Sighted two full-rigged ships, both bound north, one we supposed to be bound for California, the other was a Yankee whaler. The last passed within half a mile of us, but she merely showed her stars and stripes. Distance from Valparaiso, about 370 miles at noon.
17th.--Made 196 miles which brings us within a day's sail of our port. A ship passed us about 4 o'clock a.m.
18th.--Very strong south-west wind, and obliged to shorten sail for fear of overrunning our mark. Breeze gradually dies away to a calm, when we have doubts whether we will reach our port to-day. p.m. Breeze gradually strengthens when we quickly near the goal, and cast anchor about five o'clock p.m. We were astonished at the number of ships in the port of Valparaiso. Finding that the Simlah which left New Zealand more than a month before us was still here, Captain Potter and I go on board to hear the news. Learn that the steamer is expected in two days, and to leave on the 26th. Determine to secure my passage in her, but whether for the whole route to England, or only to Panama, leave for to-morrow to decide. We have thus made the passage in 40 days, while the Simlah took 51. By crossing the meridian of Greenwich we have got a day in advance, so to-morrow will be put back to Wednesday. Our first impressions of this place are rather unfavourable. The harbour is nothing more nor less than an open bay, but as it opens to the northward and it does not often blow from that quarter there is nothing to fear; the port is well supplied in shipping and appeared so crowded that we saw little chance of getting near the town so we cast anchor within the point where the lighthouse stands and outside the crowd. The town has a very curious appearance, cannot make out what is the material used for construction, looks like clay; when the lights are burning of an evening, it looks very singular, as the principal part of the town is built on the hillsides--the lights shine like myriads of little twinkling fires, exposed to the winds. Hear of certain civil commotions in the country, but have not learnt sufficient to judge of their extent, but believe they are now suppressed. Hear that fruit is very abundant, and also that there is no scarcity of those little vermin called fleas. As we propose going on shore to-morrow morning, hope to get some little information worth jotting down.
19th.--Went on shore at ten o'clock and stayed till dark. Was rather amused though not much edified. Through the introduction of Captain Robertson of the Simlah got introduced to several English residents, and dined at a French table de hote in the afternoon. Remarked a French lady there ask a gentleman what liquor those Englishmen were drinking and he said it was very strong beer. It was indeed Porter. Claret was the favourite beverage and it is certainly the best in this hot weather. Met my old acquaintance and school fellow Andrew Hall on one of the streets, but as he did not recognise me I did not accost him. In the evening, however, he came into the inn where I was and I asked the landlord if I was correct in my surmise. I found I was right and when I introduced myself he was rather taken aback. Of all the mixed class of people one meets here, which includes almost all the nations on the earth, I see none to compare to our own countrymen. Was astonished that the Chilians
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and Spaniards do not show better on horseback. I did not see a single person that seemed to me a handsome rider; the horses, although hardy and tough, are very much inferior even to the Sydney horses. Must get one of their plaited bridles and perhaps a saddle cover. A good many of the women are not a bit better looking than Maoris, while others are very good looking. The better class seem to dress very gaily, but very few of them any head-dress more than a napkin. Of course I have not seen many English ladies. I suppose they keep up Old English fashions. The houses are better than they look from the water; some of the principal buildings are indeed very good. Bricks plastered over are the chief materials for the walls, and most of the roofs are covered with brown looking tiles and mud. Am glad my stay here is not likely to be a long one.
19th.--Rode out to the Vinodenia (a pretty level little plain) and saw a fine garden badly kept. Fruit abundant but most sorts barely ripe. Got a good horse and enjoyed the ride very much. Saw some of the finest mules I have ever seen and think they must be invaluable in this country.
20th.--So warm that I did not move much about in the middle of the day. Went aboard the Clara and had lunch, and came on shore with the captain and Robertson of the Simlah to dine with Mr. Heatly. Steamer was not signalled at dark.
21st.--My first enquiry this morning was after the steamer which I found had arrived about 5 o'clock in the morning. Heard the news of the excitement in France, but have not yet been able to see any English papers. Gave Mr. Heatly bill on London to sell and secure a passage to Panama (for £138 2s. 2d.).
22nd, Sunday.--Quite as busy here as a work day. Almost all the shops are open. A great many go to church to get their sins washed out, and afterwards go horse racing and to the theatre. Last night there was a grand masked ball, but did not go; believe there was about 2,000 people there. Population of Valparaiso about 40,000. Santiago, which is the capital and about 90 miles from here, has about 90,000; hear that the steamer which leaves on Thursday only goes to Callao where the Lima, a larger one, goes on to Panama.
23rd.--Sent my heavy baggage on board the steamer and went with Hale and Potter to the Almandoal. Met Mr. Scott from Paisley and he introduced me to Mr. Cochrane of the same place. Must go and call on their friends.
24th.--Spent the principal part of the day on board the Clara. Was invited to attend a club dinner given by the shipmasters of Valparaiso at 7 o'clock. Spent a very happy evening and was astonished at the great quantity of champagne drunk. Many first-rate songs were sung.
25th.--Was invited by Captain Sutherland of the Sir Thos. Fielding. Went at 2 o'clock and met Potter, Petrie of the Llewellyn,Carr of the Korsburgh, and some others. Sutherland is a capital fellow, but out of sight the oddest fish I ever met. In the evening went on board the steamer Bolivia and chose my berth.
26th.--Embarked about 11 o'clock and about one, got under way. About 200 passengers on board, and find that there is a padre in the same cabin with me. He seems a regular Friar Tuck--fine looking man were it not for his bare pow and extraordinary dress; hope it is
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not his purpose to go far, and that I will soon have the room to myself. The steamer is not a fast one, but exceedingly well fitted up and I should think an excellent sea boat. A splendid awning over the entire poop, which is a great acquisition as it effectually shades us from the noon day sun, as well as from the tropical rains which we may look for in a short time. Very few English passengers. Most of them are Chilians and Peruvians. They are more sober in their habits than our countrymen.
27th.--Dull cold morning, wind ahead about 5 o'clock p. m. Reached Coquimbi; discharging and taking in passengers and 20 tons of coals made it quite a busy scene. What a row? What a rumpus, etc., and a very pretty bay, but the land in sight seems in the last degree barren. A pretty little village on the opposite side of the bay. Very slow steaming, lost six hours' work already on account of the weather.
28th.--Called at Wasco at 7 o'clock a. m. About 30 passengers left there and a few new arrivals. A small miserable place. Some deck passengers had stowed themselves away but were found out, when being threatened, they cashed up. The generality of the passengers, although well dressed and intelligent enough, are dreadfully filthy in their habits; they spit and make a mess all over the deck, and at table they are disgusting as they will help one another with the knives and forks they have just been eating with. Expect to reach Caldera about 8 or 9 p. m. and get rid of a few more passengers. About 8 p.m. landed a good deal of cargo and about one-third of the passengers--a good riddance. Night fine, and started about 11 o'clock.
29th, Sunday.--I have had 30 days in this month of February. My companion the padre is the greatest of fellows in the cabin; in fact did I not see him stealing out and in I should scarcely know but that I had the cabin to myself. As his luggage is addressed Geneva, I suppose we will have his company all the way to Panama. The steamer is very slow but comfortable, and the weather is delightful. I have not seen anything yet along the coast to make me fall in love with it; I have not even seen a good sized tree. These Spaniards and Chilians are the most inveterate gamblers I ever saw. Although this is Sunday, they are busy at Monte and staking ounces on the turning of a card, and that without the pleasure that these games often inspire.
1st March.--Arrived at Cobya about 10 o'clock. Of all the miserable places I ever saw this beats them. A few ordinary houses built of clay, etc., on a bare sandy beach with impassable hills at the back and an indifferent roadstead in front. This is the only roadstead in Bolivia and all the coast is anything but inviting. Many of the hills close to the coast rise to the height of 4,000 feet; inland I hear that the country is very rich and beautiful and this place is important from the roadstead which belongs to it. It is only a short time since it was discovered that there is abundance of guano close to the village; they are now busy digging it.
2nd.--About 10 o'clock a. m. arrived at Coqique when we stayed till past 5 p.m.; like all the other places at which we called, bare and sandy in the extreme. Had a very bad headache and could not enjoy the delay. Met the return steamer from Callena to Valparaiso; learn by her that this one proceeds all the way to Panama. Am glad of it as I like Captain Inge and the vessel much.
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3rd.--Reached Arica about 7 o'clock this morning and was struck with the contrast it bears to the other ports we have visited--the town is situated at the mouth of a pretty little fertile valley, shows more regularity and cleanliness than we have yet seen, and those ornaments to a place like this, trees and shrubs, are not awarding. Like all the other places we have visited the bay is quite open to the northward. There are fourteen vessels, mostly British, lying here. Were it not for the excessive heat I should take a run on shore.
4th.--Arrive at Islay about 10 o'clock a. m. A most forbidding place. There is not even a sandy beach to land on. The village is built on the top of the cliffs overhanging the bay. Several vessels lying in the bay. Nothing like vegetation in sight. Abundance of asses; they are carrying guano up the country. Weather clear, but a fine breeze to keep it from being oppressive.
5th.--As we have no port to call at to-day we are making fast towards the equator. We have had no regular oppressive weather as yet. I think I have felt it warmer in New Zealand. We expect to reach Callao on Sunday morning where we will stay a couple of days.
6th.--Got to Pyso about 9 o'clock a.m.; rather a pretty place, being low, near the sea, with a little shrub and trees to vary the scene, and higher land in the background. It abounds in fruit; grapes are very fine here, and the largest water-melons I ever saw. Started again about two o'clock and ran over to the Chincha Islands (the great guano group). Saw several vessels loading and found the strong pungent scent more than half a mile away; the supply is exhaustless and although there is no harbour, from the fine calm weather constantly experienced here, they are quite safe. After waiting about half an hour for letters, etc., from the ships stood away for Callao.
7th, Sunday.--Arrived at Callao early in the morning and all the passengers gone away to Lima. This looks a busy place, but do not much fancy staying long; believe we will be off on Tuesday. Intend going up to Lima in the afternoon as the ship is very filthy, all hands being employed coaling. There was a slight shower this morning which is a very unusual thing here. In the afternoon went on shore for two hours, but was glad to get off to the ship again. This is certainly the filthiest place I ever set foot in; the streets seem never to have been cleaned and the low flat mud roofs are covered with broken bottles, old bones and stones, and all sorts of rubbish. The people must be at an enormous expense in dressing as they always look clean and extremely gaudy.
8th.--Went on shore at midday and took the 2 o'clock train to Lima. I was much disappointed in this town. I expected to find it clean and tidy, but was disappointed, although it was extremely well watered, a stream running along the centre of almost every street. If kept in order it would be a fine place, but everything except the dress of the inhabitants shows a degree of slovenliness that I was quite unprepared for--New Zealand for me. Hope to get away from this hole to-morrow night. The weather is cooler than I expected, but on shore the stench is excessive and must be unwholesome.
9th.--At half-past six p. m. left Callao; the coals we took in there turn out to be very bad and we make very little way through the water. About 60 passengers, two-thirds of whom go right on to Panama, several to Southampton, and a few to the United States.
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Weather rather hazy; met a Peruvian man-of-war steamer going into Callao as we were leaving.
10th.--Morning very hazy and air damp. Towards the afternoon gets clearer; expect very warm weather daily; as yet it has not been at all oppressive. Payta is our next port, but we will not reach it before the 12th, then Guayaquil on the 13th, and Buenaventura on the 17th.
11th.--No incidents. Steaming along at a good rate. Were it not for a little breeze of wind it would be insupportably warm.
12th.--Very warm. Making good way. Arrived at Payta about 3 p. m. A miserable place. Had to take in 100 tons of coals which detained us late.
13th.--About half-past one this morning left Payta; day warm and clear. There were eight bullocks put on board last night for consumption. I never saw anything so small brought to the slaughter.
14th, Sunday.--After being delayed almost all night by darkness at the entrance of the river, reached Guayaquil about 11 o'clock. On ascending the river it brought me much in mind of the Hunter in N. S. Wales. It is larger in every respect but the banks and growth very much resemble it. The town is built on the banks and has a few pretty little wooded hills behind it. It looks more comfortable in every respect than anything we have yet seen along the coast. The shrubbery is brilliant; the houses are mostly built of clay and supplejacks and are roofed with tiles; their fronts are a series of arches and look very well. The place is in a great commotion as the people daily expect an expedition from Callao headed by General Flores to take the place. From what we can see from the vessel the inhabitants will not offer a very vigorous resistance. Most of the vessels are drawn up above the town. There is a French corvette (the Prudente) laying close to the town, but of course they will take no part in the affray unless molested. What a noise and dust a few guns will make when directed against these tile roofed houses. The river is wide enough opposite the town for the steamer to tarn round at full speed. As we have scarcely seen a clump of green trees along the coast, this place strikes us more favourably. It was excessively hot during the night. I could scarcely lay on my sofa; to-day is very close. In the morning we had a shower of rain, but towards the afternoon expect it will clear up. I believe we will not get out the river before dark. Hope we shall not be obliged to anchor for the night.
15th.--About midnight got clear of the river and stood away to the northward. We have lost about 30 hours by going to Guayaquil. Day very clear and warm and water as smooth as a pond.
16th.--Clear and warm with a gentle breeze; crossed the line this morning. Hope to reach Panama by the evening of the 19th or early on the 20th.
17th.--Owing to a deficiency of coal the captain has resolved not to go into Buenaventura but proceed direct to Panama. This we will reach a day or so earlier. The morning very clear and warm, not the slightest ripple to be seen on the water and not a breath of wind; about 9 a. m. a slight breeze from the northward and refreshes us. I can stand the heat better than most of them. I have only once felt it quite oppressive and that was while we were in the Guayaquil River.
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18th.--Clear and warm. On account of not going into Buenaventura we expect to reach Panama this evening. Two passengers bound for Buenaventura have protested against the captain taking them on to Panama, but it is of no use as it is better to inconvenience two individuals than to delay the mails and other passengers for a considerable time. About midday sight the Pearl Islands, which are very pretty, clothed with most beautiful trees and shrubs. At 9 o'clock p.m. anchored off Toboga as it was too dark to get to the anchorage at Panama.
19th.--At half past 7 anchored at Panama and got on shore by a little past 8. Thought it rather late to procure mules and start to-day, so made all necessary arrangements for to-morrow morning. Like Panama much better than I expectced; it is quite an American town now on account of the numbers that are flocking to San Francisco. All the old Spanish churches and buildings as well as the walls round the town are fast going to ruins.
20th.--Start at 7 in the morning in company with Mrs. Leat and Mr. Henderson, the baggage to follow on other mules. The mules looked so very small that I was afraid they would break down before we reached Gorgona, But I was agreeably disappointed. Although the day was warm at periods we had a nice cool breeze and a great part of the road is completely shaded with the most beautiful evergreens. When we reached Gorgona we were not at all tired and even Mrs. Leat seemed to enjoy the trip. We did not get first-rate accommodations, but as we did not expect such, we were the less disappointed. The mules cost us 12 dollars each. Made arrangements with a native to carry us down the river Chagres as far as the railway station--to start by 7 in the morning.
21st, Sunday.--Started at the time appointed. Most of our fellow passengers left before us, and happening to be unfortunate in our steersman we were delayed a little by getting aground on some shallows. However, one of the boats which followed us was better guided and we followed in her wake. We reached the station about 2 o'clock and found that the train would not leave till between 4 and 5; took tickets and left at half past 4. Owing to some trifling delays we did not reach Aspinwall till dark and found we would be obliged to leave our luggage in the train till the morning. Went to one of the public houses and found there was one general bedroom to hold about 70, these being three tier deep, and one little room for the ladies. There had been about 200 people left in the morning for New York by the steamer. Heard of the unhealthiness of the climate, but must say I enjoyed very good health. I was surprised at the facility of crossing the Isthmus; even ladies do not complain of the fatigue. When the railway is finished all the way through the two terminuses must be very important places and will connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. From the obstacles that have been already overcome I have no doubt it will be finished in two or three years. As there is no steamer here at present we may be detained for some time in this place which will be anything but pleasant.
22nd.--During the night a steamer arrived from New Orleans, but as she is not likely to return by the route we wish to take, it does not interest us. Looking anxiously all day for the steamer Ohio which arrived about 3 p.m. with only 380 passengers. Hear she will leave
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for Habana and New York to-morrow, but do not take any steps to secure a passage as probably another may arrive which will cause them to reduce the passage money.
23rd.--After hearing all the pros and cons about the steamer take out tickets for the 1st cabin at 100 dollars, and start soon after noon. In going round to Chagres for some passengers see the English steamer Clyde coming to the same place. Anchor off Chagres soon after 1, when we take on a good many passengers, and start again for Cuba at sundown.
24th.--Water very smooth and steamer making 10 knots. Weather delightful. At night very warm and close, and there was not a breath of wind.
25th.--Fine breeze from the north-east; very agreeable weather; going at least 10 knots; no object of interest; boat very comfortable, and from Mr. Henderson being previously acquainted with Captain Schenk he pays us a good deal of attention.
26th.--Weather fine, water smooth, and wind fair, which makes steaming very agreeable. The captain keeps the passengers in continual good humour by telling anecdotes, etc.
27th.--In the morning sight the Island of Cuba, and see a good many vessels and one steamer; wind fresh from northward; water smooth and pleasant.
28th.--At sunrise enter Habana and was much struck with its pleasant appearance. After procuring a permit went on shore and had a drive all round the city. Our first impressions were more than realized; it is by far the finest Spanish town I have seen. The Volants are a pleasant way of travelling. Slept on shore.
29th.--Went off to the Ohio to breakfast; expected to leave to-day, but were informed that the steamer to which we were to be transferred would not leave till the Cherokee arrived. After 2 p. m. were transferred to the Empire City as there was a steamer signalised, but it proved a false alarm. Met many new faces as the New Orleans passengers were not transferred from the Empire City.
30th.--Soon after sundown the Cherokee arrived and our Orleans passengers left to go on board her. Immediately afterwards prepared to start, and got out about 9 o'clock. Mr. Henderson left us here, and went by a steamer to Charleston. The wind ahead and expect to knock about a good deal as this ship gets a character for rolling.
31st.--Weather fine, wind fair, and going along bravely. We have now full advantage of the Gulf Streams; at sunset the weather looks more unfavourable.
1st April.--Change in the weather. Strong wind right ahead with heavy rain. Ship behaves very well, making about 7 knots through the water; the stream is equal to 2 or 3 more. p.m. Sea ran pretty high and stopped the ship's way greatly.
2nd.--The gale of yesterday abated towards midnight. The wind is fresh this morning and against us, but not so much as to stop us materially; day clear and sea pretty smooth.
4th, Sunday.--Entered the harbour of New York. Delighted with the view, but it was so very cold that we could scarcely remain on deck. On landing went to the "Irving" House, and find it a most comfortable place to live at. Enquire after the English steamers and find that one of Collins' line left yesterday and that the Europa of
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Cunard's line would sail for Liverpool on Wednesday the 7th; decide to go on her.
5th.--Mr. Lent showed me a great deal of attention to-day, taking me to see all the principal sights of the city, and in the evening to see the "Ethiopian Serenaders." About sundown commenced to snow very fast.
6th.--Still snowing. Sent my bulky luggage on board the Europa and waiting for Mr. Lent to show me some of the indoor wonders of New York. After he came went to the museum and spent three hours there. In the evening went to see Mr. Forrest perform in the tragedy of the "Gladiator." Did not much like him but spent a pleasant evening.
7th.--Happy change in the weather. It is now fair and clear, and the wind fair for our voyage. Went on board at 11 o'clock; we started soon after 12. Wind light outside but fair and we make 11 knots.
8th.--Weather still very fine and wind fair. Much warmer than yesterday. Make 258 miles up to noon.
9th.--Wind ahead most of the day, but ship going along steadily. We feel it very cold.
10th.--Wind variable. Doing a good day's work.
11th.--Fair wind. Made 284 miles.
14th.--Wind still fair and strong. Made 280 and the weather is more like England.
15th.--Wind from the west and squally. Made 295 miles.
16th.--Wind changed to the eastward and made a poor day's run, 247 miles. Cold and disagreeable.
17th.--Made only 218 miles as the wind was still ahead. In the afternoon got lighter and very fine. About 11 o'clock p.m. saw a light on the coast of Ireland.
18th.--Very fine coasting along the coast of Ireland.
LETTER FROM J. E. FITZGERALD TO JOHN DEANS.
The Springs, 14th July, 1853.
My dear Deans,--Will you second my nomination on the hustings on Monday as Superintendent for our settlement. I believe you are one of my supporters. I ask you as the most independent of all political parties of any man in the settlement. I have asked Rose to propose me. I don't want you to make a speech, which I know you detest, but I should be much obliged if you would kindly second my nomination.--Yours ever, James Edward Fitzgerald.
P. S.--I will call on you early to-morrow.
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