1889 - Wilson, J. A. Missionary Life and Work in New Zealand - PART III: TAURANGA, 1836--39.

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PART III.

TAURANGA, 1836--39.

January 5th, 1836. --We arrived at Tauranga to-day.

March 24th. --To-night twenty men of Ngatihaua, led by Pea, crossed the harbour and occupied the road to Maketu. They are the advanced picket of Te Waharoa's war party, whose tribe and confederates are on their way to avenge the murder of his cousin Hunga, killed by Huka of Rotorua.

26th. --This afternoon, Tara, 1 one of my native teachers, told me that Pea had captured fourteen men of Tapuika, allies of Rotorua, and they were in much danger. After thinking the matter over, I resolved at once to proceed. On arriving at Maungamana, the people came together, and after some discussion, they agreed that the men should not be injured, saying that they were their own allies, that they were in the hands of friends who would protect them. Two women who were taken prisoners with the men confirmed all this. I therefore thought it useless to go further in the matter, and returned to the Papa.

Sunday, 27th. --Waharoa's taua, about 1,000 men, reached Maungamana last night. Mr. Wade and myself visited them. On landing we were told that the Tapuika prisoners had been killed and eaten. This treacherous and cruel act was the work of Te Waharoa. Pea had at first pretended that they were only detained to prevent the advance of the taua being known, but this savage no sooner arrived than they were devoured by his followers. We had now to make our way through a great concourse of naked and half naked men to a mound in the midst of the encampment. This mound and the precincts were tapu, and on this Te Waharoa and Taharangi, the leaders, were seated. We came within a few paces, and I inquired if it were true that they had killed the prisoners. With a smile, peculiar to himself, and nearly feminine, Waharoa assented. I spoke to him of his injustice and barbarity. On this many of his tribe gathered round, and I spoke long on the truths they had already heard--on another life with its rewards and punishments. Te Waharoa listened with impatience, now and then in short sentences justifying what he had done. He said that Rotorua had commenced the war by killing his kinsman, and that the men he had slain were their allies. "The hara (offence) is on their part, I am innocent." Here the old man pondered as if in thought, and said some things in justification of what he had done, and then

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finished by saying, "When this war is ended I shall sit still. It is my last pakanga (war). I wish that my tribe and myself may stand before God." We afterwards sat down among a people brimful of excitement --a people, who, at such a time, it would be nearly impossible to describe. Thus the Ra Tapu wore on till four in the afternoon, when, at a signal from their chief, a stir commenced among the tribes and the various divisions; all equipped with gun, spear, or battle-axe, moved on with a degree of order, and passed the mound on which we were sitting near the chief. Waharoa now began to buckle on his belt and prepared to move, his only weapon being a long-handled battle-axe. 2 Before we descended the hill I besought him earnestly to spare the women and children at Maketu, and at last he assented, but how far he will keep his word the event will show. On our way back to the settlement we called on board of a schooner lately arrived from Sydney. We hoped to have induced the master to put to sea to save some of a flax purchasers' property at Maketu, named Tapsel. But no persuasion could move him.

29th. --Much perplexed--difficult to know the line of duty from what passed on Sunday. It seems useless to follow in the rear of the taua, a mere spectator of their atrocities; and yet the thought of remaining still at home, while there was the chance of saving some poor life, became intolerable.

30th. --Wrote to Matamata, inviting some of the missionaries there to take charge of our station, that Mr. Wade and myself might follow Te Waharoa. The "Columbine" shortly after arrived, so, without waiting for the missionaries, we left the master, Mr. Lewington, in charge of the settlement. At Maungatapu we were joined by the principal chief, who wished to see the result of the attack upon Maketu. The weather was dark, and the rain fell heavily; the roads and swamps were covered with water; all was chilliness and gloom both within and without! In passing through Maungamana, the ovens were pointed out where the victims, Tapuika, had been cooked. It was near if not on the spot where I had been accustomed to stand of a Sunday, while I addressed the people. I stood for a moment to observe the spectacle. It was one of those sights which only the devil and fallen man are capable of producing. An arm, entire from the shoulder blade, lay on the ground near me, which had yet a little flesh remaining and the marks where it had been gnawed by the cannibal fresh upon it. Shortly after crossing the first swamp on the road to Maketu we came to a sand hill on which lay the heads of five men, their faces

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turned towards the sun; one was that of an old man, the beard grey, the others were young men of from twenty to thirty years. Here, too, lay strewed at the food of the hill in the fern, the intestines and other parts of the human body. The heart of one of them--the first who fell--was raised on the point of a spear and stood on the hill near the heads. None of these bodies had been eaten. They had been killed by the taua toto and were left a sacrifice to Whiro, the god, or spirit of war. The heart was also an offering to him, called by the Maoris a whakahere. Reflection: How strong is the hand by which the evil one holds his vassals, and how extreme the barbarism where God and His laws are unknown. In these dark regions there is no cruelty, no crime, however great, which men do not commit with impunity. An hour after this an armed body of men came in sight, and our natives, not knowing whether they were friends or foes, kept close together. As they approached, a naked man, carrying his gun in one hand and waving his garment with the other, ran before the rest. Immediately they discharged their pieces over us, one ball passing quite near enough, and in a moment, with a rush, we were surrounded. They were a tribe in alliance with Tauranga. These men were wildly excited, and after a kind of war dance, they told us of the taking of Maketu, the names of the chiefs and the number killed in the capture of the pa. Their energy and rejoicing but too well verified the words--"their feet are swift to shed blood, etc." We moved on, conversing on the wretched state of the country, and before sunset came to the Tumu, which is about two miles from Maketu. Here we left our natives and went on alone to the place where the conflict was just over, but the work of devastation still going on. As we passed along the river large canoes laden with spoil were seen making for the Tumu, and when we got to the point formed by the river and the sea, opposite the pa, we met Tapsal, the flax trader. He is a strong, powerful-built Dane, not much cowed by all that he had witnessed and lost. He had on a straw hat, shirt and trousers, the only things the marauders had left him out of £2,000 or £3,000 worth of property. He was attended by a handsome young Maori woman, his wife, whom Te Waharoa had permitted to leave the pa with him, although a native of Rotorua. We urged him to seek safety at the Tumu before it was dark. The ford of the river at low water opposite the pa is breast high, and we could not cross. As it soon became dark we sat down on the bank and for some time contemplated the havoc before us of Maketu pa. The noise and riot of the victors was ungoverned, and, as they passed to and fro between the flames,

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they appeared like monsters or demons of some fabulous legend, as the night, which was calm and fine, made the shouts and yells of these savages more horrible. We now learned that all the chiefs had fallen, the rest killed or bound as slaves, and as our further stay would be useless we returned to the Tumu and slept in our cloaks on the sand. It was a wretched night, full of foreboding and gloom.

31st. --The people at the Tumu informed us that on the return of Waharoa to Matamata, our settlement at Tauranga would be exposed to danger, because his taua had passed through the mission premises. At daylight we left for Tauranga--the morning, dark and rainy, seemed in keeping with the state of the country. On reaching home found all well, and had the pleasure of greeting Messrs. Brown and Maunsell. They had kindly come from Matamata in our absence. Expecting the return of the taua, we sent our wives and children on board of the "Columbine" for safety.

1st April. --Our families at the vessel. Expecting Waharoa every hour--natives afraid to remain near the settlement.

2nd. --This morning the taua arrived. They came without tumult or noise--with a quietness not expected, but it was a lamentable sight. The Ngatimaniapoto tribe struck me as being the wildest and most forbidding. These wretches were carrying on their backs, in baskets made of flax, the flesh and bones of the men they had killed, that it might be eaten at Kawhia and Mokau on the western coast. When speaking to some of them a boy with a man's head in his hand came and stood a yard in front of me and held it up for me to look at; this he did so often that I was obliged to drive him away. The heads of the chiefs whom they had killed were displayed in triumph, and I observed a little girl playing with one of them on her knee as our children amuse themselves with a doll. When they reached the water side the chiefs sat down by our boathouse to refresh themselves, and then the heads of the Maketu chiefs were placed on low staffs about three feet high--I suppose in order that the people at the Papa might see them. But the saddest sights of all were the degraded widows of the men who had been eaten, now led away, wretched and dishonoured captives. Many of these poor creatures were following behind the cannibals who still carried on their backs the flesh, heads, or limbs of the slain. Some of these miserables wept when they saw us. Amongst them I recognized the widow of Wharetutu; yet help in such an hour was utterly beyond our power. The taua cut down my young kahikatoa trees on a spot I had reserved for my garden, and made their

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ovens, and cooked the flesh of their enemies. This, with also burning some of the fencing, was the only outrage they committed on us; their leaving the settlement uninjured was owing to the influence of Te Waharoa. This chief came to Te Papa in the early morning, and was with me before his main body arrived. When alone I reproved him again for cannibalism and cruelty. He replied, "I am going to breakfast; come and take some of this flesh with me." After resting the taua moved on and crossed the river to Otumoetai.

Sunday, 10th. --Waharoa and his tribes are now withdrawn to Waikato, but the Tauranga natives are all anxiety and alarm, not knowing the hour when in their turn they must stand the assault of Rotorua, and they have this disadvantage, that Ngatiwhakaue are more numerous and powerful than Ngatihaua.

15th. --To-day all our natives fled to the pa with the exception of the few who belong to the Thames whose people have nothing to do with the war. We are frequently told that the station will be plundered and burnt by Ngatiwhakaue.

20th. --The taua toto was first seen to-day, and not far from this they killed a man and ten poor women, who were out collecting provisions.

25th. --Early this morning saw the fires of Ngatiwhakaue in the forest. All confusion among the natives, they have not a pa or fortified place ready to repulse an enemy. In the evening we took our wives and children on board the "Columbine" for safety, expecting an attack before daylight. Our families every evening have gone to the vessel for some time past. Though much perplexed and tried and occasionally cast down, yet, on the whole, they were resigned and even cheerful. Great excitement amongst the natives owing to the unfinished state of the pas. Reflection. "The Lord reigns, and He is Governor among the people," and He who said to the waters, "Hitherto shalt thou come and no further, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed," can also rebuke the savage passions of man, and in the end bring good out of all this evil.

No date. -- Our families returned early on shore from the "Columbine," but while sitting at breakfast a cry was made that an attack had commenced at Maungatapu. Sent all again to the vessel, some of them much cast down. Afterwards I could see with my glass the firing on both sides. It did not continue long, and when it had ceased the taua retired to the opposite side of the river and made a large fire. Mr. Chapman, from whose district they came, went out towards the forest with the intention of seeing them. I remained alone in the settlement.

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May 1st. --Mr. Chapman and myself went in the boat "Kahawai" to the Tumu, but found too much surf to land. As we lay on our oars in the swell of the sea, a chief, Te Koki, with difficulty swam off to the boat. This pa, which is on a sand bank by the sea, possesses but one advantage--it is flanked by a river on the right, in all other respects it is weak and the fencing bad; it has only 200 men, and is open to attack. We told Te Koki of the late attack on Maungatapu, and urged on him the danger which daily grew more ominous. He said it was true, but seemed to care little about it. On a former occasion (the night after Maketu was taken) I had pointed out to Hikareia, the chief of this place, the decayed state of his pa, at which he laughed and observed, "It is strong enough, but if not, we will make it so and have all ready." I urged him to be vigilant, but it was the hour of success and self-confidence. Te Koki informed us that they had seen no enemy as yet, all the coast was quiet. We reached Tauranga at midnight, pulling back against wind and sea.

3rd, --All is mystery as to the movements of Ngatiwhakaue. We suppose they are out, and in these parts, but where and when they will huaki (open cover), causes much uneasiness. After a long consultation Mr. Chapman and myself thought it best to leave Mr. Wade in charge of the Papa station, sending our families on board of the "Columbine" if necessary, and that he and I should leave for Rotorua, to soften, if possible, the feelings of the chiefs; also to accompany them to whatever place the first assault is to be made. We were moving before daylight. A young lad, a native of Rotorua, acted as our guide. We each carried a blanket, clothes, and food sufficient for three days. At first the load was easy, but by nightfall, having traversed some miles of forest, hill, and valley, the burden became very fatiguing to backs unaccustomed to the work. Half the day our track was through an unfrequented forest, the path so overgrown with karearo (supple-jack), that I was obliged to carry my cap in my hand, and the moss-grown track so difficult, that our little intelligent guide could scarce find the way. At sundown we reached a small cleared spot in the forest, where the back of a shed about five feet broad remained, just sufficiently large to allow us to sit down. We repaired the sides of this with branches, and strewed it with leaves. I was less weary than my companion, and worked till after dark, covering up the sides of the whare with broad fern leaves. Our lad Koroheke (Old Man), a name given him, I suppose, on account of his wisdom or experience, perhaps both, soon collected leaves for bedding. The place was in a slight hollow, densely thick with trees. Every-

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thing was very damp, but to meet this we kept up a large fire, and hung out a small flag beside our shelter, that, in the event of a night surprise, the taua might see who we were, and not mistake us for enemies. After prayer we lay down to rest, such as it was. David, under far worse circumstances, said, "I laid me down to sleep and rose up again, for the Lord sustained me." And so said we.

4th. --The kareao to-day hung from the trees as ropes, and was nearly as difficult to escape from. At sunset we saw in the distance the large lake, Rotorua, which in the gloaming looked like an inland sea. By a light air from the south we could smell, though five miles away, the hot sulphur springs about Ohinemutu. We obtained a canoe at the first pa, and arrived at the mission station late. Found Messrs. Knight and Pilly safe and well.

5th. --Much pleased with the station. It is very well and neatly built, everything new and clean, and there are hot springs close to the house, which are very convenient. Mr. Chapman and myself visited Ohinemutu. It is the largest pa of the Ngatiwhakaue. When the people are all present it holds about 3,000. Here we found many wailing over a dead body. The head was dressed with feathers, etc. As we passed some left the tangi and joined us to hear news from Tauranga. The slaughter of their people at Maketu by Te Waharoa has excited their utmost rage. We learn for the first time that 1,600 men left a week since to attack the Tumu, as utu for Maketu. I feel that the doom of that pa is sealed. We afterwards saw the boiling springs of this interesting place. As you enter the pa from the mission-house, there is a large boiling caldron on the right, just within the gate. It is about fourteen feet square. The water is thick and of a deep lead colour. The surface is one mass of boiling water, and jets are thrown up in every part about three feet high. The natives say that into this terrible place, cased round with solid black rock, they formerly cast their old slaves when worn by sickness. They were also thrown in for adultery and theft. Everything in this part of the country attests its volcanic origin, and it would appear that the lake itself, the shores of which are a beautiful white sandy pumice, has been formed by some convulsion of this nature. Nature here is lovely, man the only blot upon it!

6th. --Visited Mokoia, an island in the midst of the lake, and here again I met Tapsal. He is living in a native but very miserably. We spent some time with him. I was glad to find the young missionaries--Knight and Pilly--had supplied him with what provisions he needed.

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Sunday, 8th. --After morning service visited the pa. A few people gathered at the house of the head chief, Korokai, to hear and see all they could of us. Spoke to them of the blessedness of another life. They listened and some of them afterwards made remarks.

9th---Finding it useless to remain we quitted Rotorua at daybreak on our way back to Tauranga. Travelled hard and in good time gained the hut in the centre of the forest, collected wood for the night and replenished our bed with fern. Our repast consisted of bread and pork. The night cold, quite wintry. Felt it a cause of gratitude that hitherto we had not been surprised in this dreary forest.

10th. ---In the early morning, the forest cold and wet. About two in the afternoon gained the open fern land, and saw Tauranga in the distance. Reached the Papa in the evening, and heard that the Tumu had been captured the day after we left. It was attacked an hour before daylight, and obstinately defended. The Ngatiwhakaue were twice driven back, but in the end numbers prevailed, and Ngaiterangi--men, women, and children --were at last obliged to force their way out of the pa down to the beach. This happened a little before dawn, and many fell in the attempt. At the attack there were only 100 men present in the pa, and of these 60 were slain in the defence. Of the 200 women and children most were killed on the spot, or taken as slaves, and some few were reserved to satisfy the revenge of the widows whose husbands perished at Maketu. The Tumu was a favourite residence of the leading men at Tauranga, a sort of watering-place, and when it fell the three principal chiefs of Ngaiterangi were present. Kiharoa (the friend of Europeans) was killed on the spot where I had last seen him and called his attention to the weakness of the place. He fell in the first onset, and that his death might not discourage the defenders, his family immediately covered his body with a garment that lay near. The younger chief, Tupaea, escaped, but his uncle Hikareia was killed and eaten. Some of the company flayed his body to cover their cartridge boxes. The savage ferocity on these occasions beggars description. Many were killed and eaten, others cut to pieces and sent to distant tribes in alliance with Ngatiwhakaue.

11th. --Visited the wounded at Otumoetai, dressed several. Tupaea, the young chief before mentioned, had a singular escape. A ball entered behind the ear, just passing under the skin without injuring the bone, and after traversing round the back of the neck, came out a little above the opposite temple. The people seemed

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much cast down by their great loss. I am told that when in their retreat they passed through the mission premises, and Mr. Wade and our wives came out and sympathised in their sorrows, they (the men) leant upon their arms and wept. Our families still sleep on board of the "Columbine," but generally return to breakfast and spend the day at Te Papa.

12th. --Such is the state of things here, and such the hourly alarm, that I have decided to send my family for a season to our old station at the Puriri, remaining myself at Tauranga, waiting under the protection of God the events of the war. I hope yet to be made the agent for good to some of these people. To-day, my wife and children, Mr. and Mrs. Wade and their little boy, embarked. It was a sorrowful parting. But, owing to light and contrary wind, the "Columbine" brought up under Maunganui, and with the assistance of a few natives I brought them on shore again, to spend part of another day at the station. In the evening the wind was more promising, and I took them all again to the "Columbine." Remained on board during the night making arrangements for the voyage.

13th. --At daylight the schooner drew out of the harbour. Remained on board as long as I could, and then returned with a heavy heart to the deserted settlement, yet was satisfied now that all had left this scene of danger, and, though solitary, felt content to suffer anything for "Him who loved me and gave Himself for me." I watched the vessel most of the day. She appeared to be struggling with light contrary winds. Darkness at last shut her from sight. Whether we shall ever meet again--as it shall please my heavenly Father--I know not, yet may we cheerfully and patiently submit to His will, and whatever becomes of me, may God's richest blessings and mercy rest upon my dear wife and my dear little boys. There are pains more bitter than death.

14th. --Walked in the garden till late last night observing the wind, which blew strong from the north. The "Columbine" in a deep bay and on a lee shore gave me great anxiety. But in such hours of peril, when other aid is vain, our only refuge is in God. To His paternal love and care I committed them. Dressed some of the wounded. Mr. Chapman has left his wife under my protection for a few days, and has himself gone to Matamata for assistance in carrying her to Mangapouri, in Waikato, that she may remain there during these dangerous times. The day was very fine, and after Mr. Chapman had left, I walked for some time in the garden with his wife. We talked over the probable future of the mission, etc. Though by nature both delicate and timid, and though the fires of

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the cannibal were seen from the path we were pacing, only a few miles distant, and her husband had left her in a house where natives durst not remain, yet, during this walk and the rest of the day she never even alluded to the danger which was everywhere around her. There is no vessel now for refuge. Such is the heroic courage and serenity of soul which the spirit of God can impart to the frailest of His children in the hour of solitude, peril and duty. "Out of weakness were made strong."

Sunday, 15th. --Among the few who ventured near the Papa to-day was a young man from Maungatapu; he was one who had escaped from the Tumu and had been wounded in the hand a little above the knuckles. This wound had been much neglected. I told him that the middle finger must be amputated, but to this he would not consent. I then gave him till this afternoon to decide; the time came, but he was still irresolute. I then advised him to return to the pa as it was useless to dress the hand as it was. He replied, "You had better take it off." I had never done such a thing before, but I felt there was a necessity. The only instrument I had to operate with was my razor. I chose the best. The hand being very much swollen there was some difficulty, and the poor fellow nearly fainted. As soon as he recovered he looked round for his finger, and after regarding it for some time with a look of sympathy he carefully wrapped it up and took it with him..

16th. --My patient of yesterday doing well. Others soliciting attention.

20th. --Mr. Pilly arrived from Rotorua. He came to inform me of the hostile intentions of Ngatiwhakaue. They speak openly of their purpose to strip and burn this settlement. I now feel doubly thankful that I sent my family away.

21st. --Accompanied by Mr. Pilly, I examined the island of Pane-pane to ascertain how far it would answer as a temporary residence. Undecided.

Sunday, May 22nd. --At Otumoetai the people were attentive and very kind in their manner. I did not expect so much in times like these.

23rd. --Mr. Pilly left for Rotorua. Before parting I asked him and the chief who was with him to tell the chiefs of Ngatiwhakaue that I was sitting alone at Te Papa, that if they thought good to come to destroy, they had better come, but in the end they would be the sufferers.

25th. --Owing to the threats of the natives Mr. Chapman visited me from Matamata. This is a kind act from a tried friend, well illustrating the proverb, "A friend in need is a friend indeed."

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June 13th. --Mr. Fairburn, from the Puriri, landed to-day. He has been nearly two weeks on the sea in an open boat encountering contrary winds and heavy rains. It gave us much pleasure to see him. He kindly came to see how it had gone with the station. His sympathy is cheering, but he cannot help us.

18th. --Messrs. Chapman, Fairburn, and myself left in the Puriri boat for Tuhua (Mayor Island) about twenty miles distant. The purpose of our visit was this. Having heard that Tautari, chief of Ngaitonu, Whakatane, was about to surprise and cut off the unsuspecting inhabitants of this place, we hoped to give them timely warning. 3 It was a beautiful day, with a light fair breeze, and we came up with the island about four in the afternoon. As we neared we saw a smoke made as a friendly signal. The sides of the island are abrupt and steep, and we had difficulty in finding a landing place, but on rounding a large perforated rock which juts out from the western headland, crowned with an old fortification, we opened on a beautiful little cove and good beach. Here we found three men who had been watching the boat, each fully armed. At first they looked on us with suspicion, but when satisfied, were at once friendly. On landing they told us than Tautari had two days before been at the island with his flotilla of war canoes, and was repulsed by the islanders. That they had observed his canoes in the far distance about sunset, and by this warning the people assembled in their stronghold, ready to receive him. But though defeated, he had plundered and taken away everything--provisions, canoes, etc., and what he could not take he burned. Pitched for the night, and prepared for Sunday.

Sunday, 19th. --Though there was no longer cause of alarm, there was not a native to be seen. They were still shut up in their impregnable fortress. A guide had been sent us in the early morning, and following him, he led us to the people. The road is high and rugged in the extreme. Every part bears the mark of volcanic action. As we passed onward along the central range of hills, we had a fine view all around. The deep ravines, valleys and curiously formed mounds and hills, of which there are many, all possessed an interest when seen as His work, who is "wonderful in counsel and excellent in working." After a circuitous walk of two hours, we came to a long and deep valley, which leads to the pa. At the end stood the stronghold, very like an old ruined castle. I had often heard the natives of Tauranga mention this and its peculiarities, and now I had the satisfaction of seeing it. The ascent to the pa is from the low ground of the valley, which

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ends at the foot of the fortress, and is difficult. From right to left it is unapproachable by broken volcanic rocks; on the north or sea side the towering cliff goes sheer down into the deep. Before mounting the steep southern side of the pa, our guide (an old man) stopped by a block of stone, some seven hundredweight, which lay at the foot of the ascent. "This," said he, "is Tautari. This is the man who drove back Ngaitonu. He (the stone) killed some and wounded others. It is not a stone. E hara i te kamaka!" said the man with quiet complaisance, and not a little dignity, as he emphasised his own remark. "They did not wait for a second when he came upon them." Our guide then told how, as Tautari's force at midnight were climbing this part of the ground, they were heard by the watch on the summit of the rock, and the stone, already arranged with levers beneath, was weighed out of its place over the edge of the rocky battlement, and let loose on the advancing mass. The thundering noise of the block, as in the stillness of the night it passed through the severed files of the enemy, joined with the war yell of Ngaitaowhao, and all their musketry from the crest of their invincible pa, made those deep valleys and rocks resound and echo with revenge, driving back in confusion the assailants, who in haste gathered up the slain and wounded, leaving some of their arms, etc., upon the field, and fell back on their canoes. As the stone had done all this so recently, I said to our guide, "But where is the blood on the stone?" He replied, "How should blood be here?" and then said, without emotion of any kind, as a matter of course, "At daylight the women came down from the pa and licked it off the grass, etc." On reaching the little tribe who were assembled (not quite 200 men, women, and children), we received a most hearty welcome. They were all heathens, and it being the Ra Tapu, we asked them to hear the word of God. Mr. Fairburn addressed them, explaining the leading doctrines and precepts of Christian faith, exhorting them, "while it is called to-day," to consider their end. After this little morning service, we went round the upper part of this natural fortress, and saw its real strength. By the direct road to the entrance of the gate only one person could approach at a time, along a narrow ridge of slippery rock, over which the path runs, and this way has a crater open on the left side, and a deep precipice falling without break into the sea on the right. With merely native weapons, or musketry, it would be impossible to take it, and a few men could hold it against any number of assailants. Tautari is really a brave old man, well known to the Ngapuhi by his night attacks on them when they invaded his lands. At that

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time he had only his native arms, but found that in the night, at close quarters, they were as good as the musket, and in this way often heat them. He had received ten wounds in his wars, was feared by all, and hence this handful of islanders were well satisfied at having defeated him.

20th. --The wind too high for returning to Tauranga. Our tents being at a distance from the pa, we saw little of the natives to-day.

22nd. --The weather still very rough. We walked over the north part of the island, which is greatly diversified. From the top of the highest ridge we loosened some large fragments of rock, which, descending with velocity and weight, had a fine effect, bearing down in their way shrubs and small trees which opposed their course to the sea, or the deep ravines below us. The natives remain shut up in their pa.

25th. --The weather abated. Messrs. Chapman and Fairburn urged to depart. I opposed it. After pulling two hours in a heavy sea obliged to make for the island. We reached it with difficulty, gaining the eastern end; drew the boat up on a good beach. Found good water and excellent shelter. We pitched the tents in a little wood. Glad to be safe again on shore.

Sunday, 26th. ---Strong gale with heavy rain. Unable to visit the people on the opposite side of the island. Service with our natives only. Everything very miserable and little food.

27th. --Tautari having emptied all the stores, the greatest scarcity of food everywhere. Our flour, tea and sugar all out. Reduced to kumara and crayfish.

29th. --Our kumara short and too much sea to catch crayfish. Mr. Chapman unwell. In the evening walked alone on the beach looking for shells. Got two beautiful nautilus shells,

30th. --Bought at a great price one of the only pigs on the island. Our party all revived. The bush in wet weather is not pleasant, but when without food it is certainly bad enough.

July 1st. --Wind strong and foul. One of the old men of the place declared it was owing to our natives having hung the dead pig in a tapued pohutukawa tree. The tree was sacred to the Taniwha, the New Zealand sea-god. The islanders said that the tapu had been made noa, and the Taniwha had sent this wind.

2nd. --At 11 a. m. left Tuhua. There was yet a good deal of sea, but it was necessary to brave that or meet starvation. After a few hours the sea became less rough, and after dark, by the good providence of God, we reached Tauranga. My house still standing and the settlement uninjured.

Sunday, 3rd. --After the evening service at Maungatapu I was

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present at the most impressive Maori wail {tangi) I had yet witnessed. The occasion was the return of Te Mutu's wife and children, who had been taken captive at the Tumu, when that place was stormed by the Rotorua tribes. Te Mutu and the principal chiefs of Maungatapu sought the assistance of Mr. Wade and myself to redeem his family from slavery. We were not backward in giving what aid we could, with which they were satisfied. Yesterday Te Mutu and his party returned from Otamarora, and on their arrival this morning were received by the whole population of this place. On landing a short pause was made, and then the redeemed captives, with their band of friends who had brought them, slowly advanced from their canoes. They moved on in order till they came within twelve yards of the tribe, which stood in a solid irregular form--men, women, and children--ready to receive them. Both parties then extended their arms towards the other, not moving from the spot on which they stood, and then commenced their lamentation for the dead, fallen in battle, or for those afterwards killed, all of whom had been eaten. Their movements of the body and tone of voice, though exciting, were easy--even graceful. The women, naked to the waist, with dishevelled hair and bathed plentifully with tears, sometimes bent forward to the ground till their heads touched it, as though incapable of supporting so much sorrow at this greeting recording the past. There were many stout hearts and fierce men who wept as children, and it was with no little difficulty that I restrained the power of sympathy and did not equally weep with them. In the afternoon at Otumoetai preached from Matt. xiii. 36 to 44. The efforts of a missionary among a savage people in the midst of war often appear vain. But it is not so. The ploughman ploughs in winter and toils in the scorching heat of summer, leaving the result to God.

9th. --Mr. Chapman left to-day for Rotorua. I walked some distance with him. On my return had a visit from one of the head chiefs of Tauranga, old Taharangi. He was very pleasant but sorry to see me left alone, and grieved that everyone had left the station. Flooring my back room--found it hard work planing boards and getting them to fit, I being a very unskilful carpenter.

Sunday, 10th. --A few people came to morning service at the settlement. Spoke from Matt xiii. 13 to 16. Felt deeply the fulfilment of the prophecy here quoted by our Lord as applicable to the present state of the Maori people. They appear alike uninfluenced by the love or the terror of God. At Otumoetai only sixty natives were present at service. Walked solitarily homewards, if

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a desolate house can be called home. And as I sauntered along the shore, the loneliness of the mission station, surrounded on two sides by water, without a habitation near, or native, save one, 4 open and exposed to the enemy, gave rise to sad forebodings. But soon the thought flashed into my mind that it was for the Lord, and my gloom was gone.

15th. --I am told to-day that the Waikato tribes are on their way to attack Rotorua, and Tauranga is preparing to join them. I at once visited the chiefs and persuaded them to remain quiet. But the people obstinately maintained that peace was impossible till satisfaction {utu) had been obtained for the dead. These deadly struggles of revenge, and native affairs generally, grow darker. It is difficult to know how to act. When will peace, blessed peace, be established? The natives in this war have been revengeful and ruthless, and I much fear for the safety of the Rotorua settlement. To-day, notwithstanding the state of things. I endeavoured to form a school under the direction of a baptized native at Maungatapu.

16th. --Employed myself as much as possible on the Papa station. Grieved by reports of the Rotorua people, who threaten to destroy everything on their arrival at Tauranga. This makes me feel the my improvements on the settlement are in vain. In the evening as I sat alone taking some refreshment, Messrs. Chapman and Knight from Rotorua walked in. The latter is a nephew of old Mr. Marsden. They were surprised when I told them that Waikato had probably before this attacked Ngatiwhakaue.

Sunday, 17th. --With Mr. Chapman visited Maungatapu. He addressed those assembled. Attended my newly-formed school; found thirty-three scholars present. Spoke to them on the advantage of being able to read, and especially of reading the Word of God; and I promised a book to each as soon as he or she could read a little. In the afternoon Mr. Knight and myself went to Otumoetai. We found the people in a war assembly. The chief who was speaking shortly finished. It was plain they wished to conceal from us the object of the meeting. Waiving the subject before them, they invited me to hold afternoon prayers. But told them that the hearer of prayer received not the mere service the lips, that the heart must be with Him also. I reminded the of the cruel and bloody war they had long waged, and now had met together to carry it on with fresh vigour--again to increase their offences against God. To this they quietly assented, and then again pressed me to karakia. I replied it would be only joining

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one offence to another, and could bring no blessing from God. At midnight Mr. Chapman took boat for Te Puna, on his way to Waikato. Wrote by him to the Puriri.

18th. --Mr. Knight and his three natives left for Rotorua. At midday I was told that men of Ngaiterangi had followed them to the woods intending there to plunder them, yet, as they left early, it is not likely they will be overtaken. Since then I have also heard the following: Our messenger Keno is a neutral, and has often carried letters between Tauranga and Rotorua. Although well rewarded and kindly treated by us, he went yesterday to Tupaea, the principal chief, and said: "Chapman has sent men (bearers) to Wilson for goods. They return to-morrow. Send early to the forest and you can muru (plunder) them." To this Tupaea replied: "You have received the hospitality of the pakeha and partaken of his atawhai (kindness). You are their friend. I have never received their gifts or favours. You are the man. It is for you to do this. Ko koe ia te tangata--Mau ra tena." I mention this to record the noble reply of a heathen, and the bitter satire in his rebuke. Tupaea's father had done a still greater act. 5

20th. --A chief brought us a present of a kete taro.

21st. --Anxious to be on the way to the Puriri, but the time has lot yet come. Very solitary, and yet "not alone." Finished rigging Kahawai; got her under sail and was satisfied with her.

22nd. -- Some chiefs came this morning to ask my influence in preventing the desecration of Mangorewa, a tapued road between this and Rotorua. Mangorewa is a peaceful clear little stream, far back in the forest, on the direct way to Rotorua. The natives tell that some generations ago there was a covenant made on its banks by the ancestors of Ngatiwhakaue and Ngaiterangi. And the covenant was this: --"That neither party should ever pass along this road or cross the stream to injure the other in war." It was thus tapued, and in commemoration of this compact two large totara posts were set up on the bank, daubed with, kokowai. These posts when I saw them were in part decayed and moss grown, though the kokowai was still descernible, and they (the posts) are called Mangorewa. There was a similar contract between Jacob and Laban. 6 Indeed the agreements were so much alike that they may be said to be one in tendency and purport. This Mangorewa covenant has hitherto been solemnly observed. When war has occurred other tracks through the forest or along the seaboard have been taken, and the sacred totaras never passed for evil. Such is the general state-

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ment, and yet there is a tradition (I suppose to make the tapu doubly sacred) that once au armed band who had the temerity to break it perished to a man. On the present occasion it is urged by the more violent to march by this road, to disregard the tapu, and surprise the enemy. This causes much discussion. The party of natives who came this morning assured me that should the tapu be violated, made noa, it would increase and prolong the war. I agreed to do what I could in the matter, and as 500 men had just left for this road, I prepared at once to follow them. We walked most of the day, arriving at the native camp after sunset. I pitched near my friend Taharangi's division. He appeared to suspect my errand, for neither he nor any of his tribe came near me, and the evening passed without exchanging a sentence. All around was martial--the forest glittered with their arms, swords, axes, guns, and spears. The night drew on, and as in the bright starlight I sat in the tent door I heard some of the people telling their dreams and others interpreting them. Some were full of bad omens, while others prognosticated good. The taua was now sitting in large and small circles round their fires, in the clear light of which their faces were visible, and they talked cheerfully without noise or confusion, when an incident occurred which I shall not soon forget, and which changed the direction of events. We were encamped in front of the forest which divides Tauranga from Rotorua, and a long way on this (Tauranga) side of Mangorewa. The land which lies from the woods to the coast is a gradual descent for some miles, and presents a fair view of the country down to the sea. The night was well advanced--cold, calm, and brilliant; so clear that Maunganui, at the entrance of the harbour, the situation of the mission station and villages, with, silver links of water between them, could be distinguished. The conversation round the fires had nearly ceased, and some had sought the shelter of bush or tree, when on a sudden a multitude of voices exclaimed: "Ka hoki te Atua! Ka hoki te Atua!" (The god is going back! The god is going back!) This cry and the noise that followed was occasioned by a star of extraordinary brightness shooting from the direction of Rotorua, over the heads of the taua, and falling over Tauranga. For a time after the meteor had disappeared the sparks of its dazzling tail remained, and caused great excitement. The omen was, of course, a bad one, nay, a decisive one! This, according to all priestly augury, not only stopped any further advance, but motioned and pointed out their return in the direction where the tohu had fallen. After this Taharangi determined at once to return on the morrow. The fires

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were allowed to burn out, and the tribes rolled themselves up in their garments. The scene soon became as quiet and as silent as though the few solitary hooting owls of the night had been its only occupants.

23rd. --To-day my friends were more communicative. In the early morning Taharangi (his hair white as snow, yet still vigorous and of clear intellect) came and sat by the fire in front of my tent, and talked about the war. I gradually led him to the subject of Mangorewa. I said, "The tapu made by your fathers and Rotorua was good; it was an agreement of peace on this particular road, and hitherto has remained inviolate. Let it remain so!" He replied, "It ought to remain unbroken. I will do what I can to restrain the people." But the star that fell, pointing the way back to Tauranga, had most influence in determining him. Walked back to the Papa--bare-foot part of the way, my shoes being nearly useless.

Sunday, 24th. --Visited Maungatapu and Otumoetai. These fortified places are the principal residences in war, but are now nearly deserted. At the former I had a congregation of forty; at the latter place the people were so scattered, I was obliged to visit them individually.

27th. --Yesterday preparing for attendance on missionary committee at Matamata. Took leave of the people--some much regretted my departure. As we passed along the harbour, I could not help turning to look at the Papa station, which I might never see again. A station formed by Mr. Wade and myself, and where as "true yoke fellows" we had worked so happily together, and where, since his departure, I had seen so many sad sights, and enjoyed so many mercies. We landed at Te Puna, and reached the forest at sunset. Men were heard in the woods. It proved to be Mr. Flat, on his way to Tauranga.

28th. --All morning passing through the forest. At noon reached the Wairere, a waterfall of some hundred feet. The view from the top of this fall is one of the finest in New Zealand. The eye wanders over such extensive plains that high hills and woods of noble trees appear little more than ordinary elevations and shrubberies. To the south, about seventy miles distant, in Taupo, stands Tongariro, an old volcano, the summit covered with snow. In front are the hills of Waikato, and on the north, over forest and plain, the Aroha and landscape stretching away to the Thames. From this spot the Waihou beneath seems a mere twisted narrow rivulet finding its course through the plain. We descended to the river, where I lay some time beside it, and slept while my friends prepared

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some refreshment. We found the Waihou river deep from recent rains, and before we crossed were obliged to construct mokis of flax-stalks. They were frail barques for a broad and rapid stream, and the venture was rather uncertain. We crossed without accident, and after some hours we came late to the largest of the swamps. It is a quarter of a mile broad, and in winter it is often above the loins. It was a clear moonlight night, with a light southerly wind. In the channel (where the natives spread their eel-nets) the water was nearly up to the breast, and so cold after the exertions of the day as nearly to deprive the limbs of feeling. When we had cleared the swamp, the forest which we had to pass through was but little better, being in parts covered with water. Pie, a strong woman of twenty-five years of age (the wife of my native teacher), got through with no little difficulty. We arrived at last at the Mission House as the members of committee, by the cheerful blaze of a large fire, were sitting down to tea. I would have sat down amongst them as I was, but my good friend Chapman at once hurried me away, and furnished me with some of his own clothes, for which I gladly exchanged the thin duck I had travelled in, saturated and bedaubed with the red mire of the swamps.

29th. --Commenced the business of committee. At evening service spoke from Ezek. xviii. 27.

August 5th. --Work of committee finished. At mid-day pulled down the Waihou in the small boat belonging to the Puriri station. At Waiharakeke Mr. Morgan (secretary of committee), in attempting to drink by kneeling on a flax bush by the river, fell head first into deep water. He could not swim, but happily as he came up another and myself caught him and drew him to land. Mr. Morgan had all the committee papers in his large shooting-coat pockets. Slept on the banks of the river.

6th. --Through the kind providence of God again restored in peace to my dear family. How many mercies from above have attended both them and myself since we last parted! God has been a shield and a defence amid dangers of no ordinary occurrence. He has been with me to protect, to take away anxiety and fear, and in the midst of cannibals, to stay the mind in peace. Make me only more worthy of fellowship with those who love not their lives unto the death in Thy service!

14th. --At noon a messenger arrived from Matamata to say that Te Koutu (mission station at Rotorua) was no more! Burnt and plundered by the taua. The letter also informed us that the missionaries had been stripped of their clothes and roughly treated

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by Waikatos. All here are greatly distressed by these tidings. I am not surprised. I had long foreboded evil. The sad intelligence ended my peaceful rest at Te Puriri. Prepared at once to proceed to Rotorua, by Tauranga, and render what assistance possible.

16th. --All being arranged for this long journey, Mr. Fairburn and myself left by way of Matamata. The weather was bad. Encamped for the night on swampy ground.

17th. --Rowing up stream all day--very monotonous. Unable to read from the splash of the oar. Good fires all night. Saw no natives.

18th. --River covered by a thick fog, everything dripping wet. After rowing a few miles in the early morning we came to a small sandy landing-place. Here, under some canvas thrown over the shrubs, we found Mr. Morgan and three missionaries' wives, Brown, Chapman, and Morgan, and with them two or three native girls (bearers of their luggage from Matamata). These poor ladies had all the appearance of fugitives, which they really were. They had slept in their clothes on the wet ground, and their chief comfort was a little fire struggling for existence with wet, green wood. On hearing the noise of our boat landing I saw from under the canvas a weary pale face, nearly on a level with the wet earth, looking to see what it was. How glad they were to see us! What a change in their countenances, from sorrow to gladness! Mr. Morgan had done what he could for them, but now--for a time at least--their troubles were over. In a few minutes we had them packed and arranged in our little boat, and sent them down the Waihou on their way to the Puriri. We at once went on to Matamata, taking Mr. Morgan with us. Arrived at the settlement in the evening. All was excitement, expecting an attack from Rotorua.

19th. --After the burning of the mission station at Rotorua our station at Matamata was in daily jeopardy, and this was the cause of the flight of the ladies we met yesterday. Mr. Brown joined us on our way to Rotorua. Slept at the foot of the Wairere.

20th. --Early this morning, Mr. Knight met us in the forest. He gave us the particulars of what had led to the destruction of Te Koutu station. He also told us that somewhere in the forest there were two armed bands of men who had not yet discovered themselves, but were probably near at hand. We passed, however, through the four-hours forest to Te Puna without meeting either of them. Arrived at the Papa station at 2 o'clock in the morning rather weary.

21st. --At Maungatapu, found the people assembled in the centre

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of the pa, and Nuka, the chief, sitting in the midst. I took a place near him, and listened to the general conversation. Then when it came to my turn I spoke to them. On leaving I said to Nuka, "How long do you intend persisting in this war?" He I replied, "The people are sitting here, I am but one of them. Listen to what they say." Then men, women, and children, from, five years to seventy, commenced a waiata, the theme of which was revenge and war. I have before heard such songs, but in this there was a union, a spirit and an energy in the bearing of the natives that could not be mistaken, and which no argument could move.

23rd. --Early yesterday morning Messrs. Brown, Fairburn, and I myself set out for Rotorua. To-day the woods are very dry and pleasant; conversation cheerful all day. Our natives weary with their pikaus. After sunset we brought up in the heart of the forest, and because of armed men who might be wandering in quest of blood, kept good fires through the night.

24th. --In the early morning felled trees to open this spot as a future camping ground. It is well situated, dry, and water near At four in the afternoon came to the Awahou, the first pa on this side of the lake, belonging to Ngatiwhakaue. When they first saw us in the distance they took us for the enemy. The whole place was immediately under arms--women and children were flying to their canoes on the lake. We placed ourselves at the head of our men, advancing first, as is always done in danger, and then the tangata whenua discovered that some of us were pakehas. As we neared the pa, some armed men came forward and sat on the ground by the path we had to pass, keenly scrutinising our men, which caused some embarrassment; but on our saying that they were Ngapuhi, these grim men arose, and even invited us to their pa. But there are times and societies where polite invitations are wisely avoided. Late in the evening we pulled to the island of Mokoia. Here we found Mr. Chapman and Mr. Pilly in a miserable hut, where they had taken refuge. They gave us a warm greeting. During the night, as we lay in our blankets spread on the ground, we were told the events which led to the burning of the mission station, and the muru which followed.

25th. --This morning we with Mr. Chapman visited the site of his ruined station, the place where he had bestowed so much labour and good taste. I had seen the station, and it was perhaps the most complete and nicest village of the kind belonging to the Church Missionary Society. Now the only thing left as a solitary momento of his once pleasant spot is a chimney of white stone. 7

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built by his own bands. It stands there as a witness to the ruthless barbarity of the country. Mr. Chapman walked with us round the deserted place--a melancholy and discouraging scene--yet he uttered not a word of complaint, or reproach, but bore all as a good soldier of Jesus Christ with resignation and cheerfulness.

I shall now state briefly the position of things when Te Waharoa attacked those people, and the cause which led to the burning of the mission station. There is on the south side of the large lake a strongly fortified pa (Ohinemutu), at that time defended by about 1,800 or 1,300 men. The principal chiefs and their great ariki Pango were all there. From this pa to our station there runs a path not more than two or three feet broad, and from thence to the forest in front of which Ngatihaua and some Waikatos (they say 500 men in all), without defence of any kind, were encamped in the open field, I notice this to show the strategy of their leader. On the morning of their descent to the plain he first chose twenty active young men, taitamarikis, on whom he could depend for courage and fleetness, and sent them forward to challenge Ohinemutu. This was done by advancing well within gun shot, then menacing and discharging their muskets at the pa. When these had left Waharoa moved his force a mile or more towards the enemy, 8 leaving the women who had followed them in the camp, from whence, if need be, they could easily escape into the forest. He then came to a stand, and allowing only a small part of his force to be seen, concealed the taua in ravines, which were on each side of the way along which he knew the pursuers must follow his men. Here in this broken ground the five hundred crouched down, and like bloodhounds straining on the leash, eagerly awaited the enemy. They had not long to wait, for as soon as Ngatiwhakaue received the challenge they turned out fully armed, led by their chiefs, to avenge the insult. The toas ran well, not one of them was overtaken or fell, and after they had passed the great ambush of their own people, still drawing their pursuers after them, Ngatihaua discovered themselves, and, rushing out of the ravines, cut through and divided their opponents, who, after a chase of three miles, blown and exhausted, were unfit, notwithstanding their numbers, to meet this body of fresh men. Thus they were repulsed and driven back, and according to their own statement, lost sixty of their best men before reaching the mission-house. The rest (some wounded) gained Ohinemutu in the greatest disorder, and so closely pursued were they that the victors nearly entered the pa with them.

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But at this moment of panic, when all seemed lost, and the people, both men and women, were fleeing to their canoes on the opposite side of the pa, an old man, Korokai (about eighty years of age, chief of all the tribes of Ngatiwhakaue and elder brother to the great ariki), stood up amid the confusion and uproar, and shouting to his people, exclaimed, "I flee not, I will die where I am, on my own place!" This stayed and rallied the fugitives. They flew to the defences, stopped the advance, and Ohinemutu was saved.

It would seem that although Te Waharoa had disposed everything with forethought and care to prevent confusion in the encounter, a part of Ngatihaua led by Pohipohi, in some way got a little out, and passed before Waharoa's men which interfered with them in the onset. This error so greatly enraged the old chief that in the afternoon, when all was won and over, he called out his equal and friend (for they were really friends) to meet him before the taua in single combat. Pohipohi was not long in answering his call. And now arrayed one against the other it was a grave affair, as one or both would soon have fallen; but here the other chiefs resolutely interfered, and either by force or influence stopped the encounter. They could not afford to lose such men. I have known both these men since the time when the Rev. A. N. Brown and myself formed a mission station in their territory at Matamata, and in this place it may not be without interest to say something about their antecedents. I shall first speak of Pohipohi. He is about 55 years of age; in person tall, muscular, and well-formed; in disposition quiet, silent, and amiable, and he has a name for courage respected by all. He is also a man of high pedigree, and could probably trace his genealogy to the landing of the Tainui at Kawhia, which is no mean honour with an aristocratic people. In fact he possesses all the qualifications of a perfect rangatira. The claims of his opponent are different, and of an opposite kind. By birth he is said to be illegitimate (for the Maoris, like other people, have such distinctions); his mother was a slave, and he, in his boyhood, was taken captive, I think, to Rotorua. In early manhood his character developed, and he at last rose, chiefly by exploits in war and through many a well-fought field, till he attained his present position. From native report he has always shown great military genius. Had his lot been cast in a different school--in a civilized country--his strategy, always carried out with daring and intrepidity, would have raised him to military reputation and honour. In person, though active, he is not strongly formed. He is about sixty years of age, some five feet seven inches in

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but from a severe wound received in years gone by he still limps, which makes him appear shorter than he is. His head and features are small, bis eyes deep set and animated when speaking. His mouth is small, with thin lips, and the expression of his countenance intelligent and inquiring. When pleased or when urging some interesting point his manner becomes persuasive and gentle, and his voice insinuating and even effeminate. He does not talk much, never in loud voice, and never without an object, and then guardedly, as if under restraint. His garments are those of an ordinary Maori. I have seen slaves wear better, and though from his station, as head of the Matamata tribes, there was always much taonga (goods) passing through his hands, he never seemed to retain anything of value for himself. On occasions of ceremony, such as receiving visitors of distinction, he sits at a short distance and alone and apart from the other chiefs, and a little on one side or in front of the people. I have never seen any other rangatira do this. It is an assumed precedence peculiar to himself. In war, his weapon is a light battle-axe, the handle about four feet six inches long, of which he is a perfect master. His hair is cut very short, and his face blacked before an assault, which he leads in person. He has perfect confidence in himself, and so have all who follow him, never doubting either his courage or his skill.

As we walked from the site of the settlement to Waharoa's encampment we saw at distances memorials newly raised, marking the fall of a chief or some other rangatira; but when we came to the place itself the horrors that met us aro too revolting and atrocious to dwell upon. It could only be compared to a place where wild beasts wero wont to shelter and devour their prey. The bones of men lay promiscuously strewed in every direction. Here a bare skull, and there a rib or ribs with part of the spine; and around the ovens might be recognised any or every bone of the human name. When I say that, according to native testimony on the spot, sixty bodies of full-grown men in their prime of life, were taken to this den of cannibals, some of these, partly eaten, being only partly cooked, and the remains still lying about on the warm, damp ground, it may easily be imagined that the sight and stench arising from all this was intolerable beyond expression. It was literally "a valley of bones"--bones of men still green with flesh hideous to look upon! Among these spectacles I was arrested by the ghastly appearance of a once human head. In mere derision it had been boiled, stripped of the skin and hair, and put on a post with a raw kumara placed in the mouth. The wound that had caused death was a long gash from a war hatchet on the temple.

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The head was also beaten in from behind, probably done afterwards. I inquired of one of my natives who was with me the object of some ovens, which were made with care. They were circular, about four inches in diameter, and ornamented by a wreath of manuka. There was generally one of these near to each of the larger ovens in which human flesh bad been cooked. He replied: "These are for the atua Maori, and are sacred to him. This small kit of flesh, and that lock of hair, and this potato are all offerings to him, whakaheres." These offerings were fastened to twigs, or small slips of wood, and stood upright in the earth near the sacred little oven. I asked my friend, "How can the atua Maori, who is a spirit, eat this gross food?" "None but the ignorant think he does," he replied; "the atua does not eat the substance; it is enough to have offered it; he receives only the ha, breath, essence--that which exists in it--the ata, shadow, not the substance." It would be difficult indeed to describe the various thoughts which engaged the mind while lingering in this dismal valley. Enough to say that never did human nature appear so detestably vile and fallen so low, or the power of evil greater than in this field of horrors! At this moment, however, a bullet from the adjacent ground whizzed through the tupakihi bush where we stood, and warned us to depart. The whole place was tapu.

August 26th. --The mission station at Te Koutu was first plundered in part by a few Waikato stragglers, and subsequently pillaged and burnt by Rotorua natives. All things considered, we thought it not possible to continue a mission at this place unless the people returned the property they had stolen, and with this resolve we had an interview with the chiefs at Ohinemutu. As we had expected, they expressed much regret for what had been done, and urged that policy had obliged them, so as to prevent the enemy annoying them from that direction, etc. It was a wretched excuse, but we were not in a position to dispute with them. They also told us that Hikairo's tribe, which had chiefly done the mischief, were now absent against Tauranga, that if we would remain till their return they would persuade Hikairo to restore the booty his tribe had taken; so, on account of the importance of Rotorua as a station we determined to remain on the island of Mokoia until the return of Hikairo, giving the natives to understand that if they returned the property, even in part, the station should be re-occupied at the close of the war.

Sunday, September 4th. --Left with a fine breeze for the adjoining lake to visit Ngaitonu and their brave old leader Tautari. They

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were a fierce and wild tribe. Tautari greeted us with a savage kindness, frequently exclaiming, "Kahore he kai! kahore he kai!" (we have no food), lamenting his want of means to entertain us as he would, etc. The natives crowded thick around us, one nearly on top of another, to see a missionary, --they had never seen a white man before, and were all eyes and ears to note what we did and said, scrutinising us carefully. We spoke of the highest and greatest good attainable by man, and of the proffered gift of God to them. But our words seemed as a "strange thing." It was the first time they had heard the voice of prayer, and many of these strange faces seemed to regard us as unearthly beings. Some time since, at Tauranga, one of my natives would not be kept back from joining a taua against this pa He was an active, brave young man, of about five and twenty, and in the assault he was killed upon the taiepa. His head was so shattered that it could not be embalmed, yet Ngaitonu drew out his teeth--kokowaied a board and stuck them round it as a trophy. This base revenge appears to have been awarded on account of his toa. Poor young fellow! It had been well had he listened, and remained with me. I have never before soon in New Zealand such beautiful scenery as these lakes possess. Their variety and loveliness would be difficult to surpass. We remained two hours with these people. Tautari hearing that I lived at Tauranga, pressed me to visit him at Whakatane, and let him know how Ngaiterangi were disposed towards peace. After this we pitched our tents on the opposite side of the lake, where we spent the Sabbath evening.

7th. --Mokoia. The hut in which we live, is small and damp, has neither chimney nor window, and on rainy days, which confine us inside, we construct a lamp with lard and cotton to read by, etc., as best we can. Our toilet, however cold and wintry the weather, is performed outside without shelter of any kind. Things removed for safety before the Koutu station was burnt fill up much of this little hovel. The weather very rainy.

The following extracts are from a letter to Mrs. Wilson, then at Puriri Station: --

Mokoia (an island in Rotorua),
September 14, 1836.
MY DEAREST ANNE,

* * * * * * * *

You know I before mentioned that this was the only place which offered a refuge after the destruction of the station. We have long been detained in our little den here, but we hope shortly to leave this wretched island where we have with difficulty procured even necessary food. Our stay has indeed been pouri enough notwithstanding the indefatigable exertion and kindness

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of our dear friend 9 to secure supplies. But I hope that our coming has not been altogether in vain. Through our united efforts we now expect the place will again be built and once more be occupied by our good brother. At present he is much cast down, and no wonder! Yet he still holds his ground in the respect and confidence of the natives. Our way, dear Anne, just now is toilsome and strewed with a few sharp thorns, but come what may, there shall be peace at the last that will more than suffice, and in which all the troubles of the present shall be forgotten, or if remembered, will only increase our joy. To be a soldier in the little army of Jesus Christ in this dark land, and to fight for Him who first died for us, is no mean honour, and thus to suffer in His cause is a distinction which all Christians are not equally called to share.

* * * * * * * *

We are still waiting the return of our natives to move towards Tauranga, Should Hikairo meet us between this and Mangorewa (he is now with a taua tapu in the woods) our reception may be critical. But we leave this to One who is higher than he. On our return, if I can get to the Thames, I may perhaps find the "Columbine" waiting with you on board. Yet, I sincerely hope you have sailed to the Bay of Islands before this... Our next committee (three weeks hence, if not prevented) will be at the Puriri.

In my solitude on the island I have read "Lord Collingwood's Letters," which I found very interesting. I could have wished there had been greater depth in his piety, but in this "a man can receive nothing except it be given him from above." He was a nobleman indeed! Poor fellow! He was separated many long years from his family, which he loved, by the mere love of country, from patriotism; and shall not we whose cause is infinitely higher, and who are enlisted under the banner of such a King, be equally self-denying and courageous?

I am impatiently looking forward to the number of letters which I expect to find at Tauranga, and should they all be filled with korero noa, like my own, they will not be less dear... When last I saw Tauranga its gardens and flowers looked pleasant and gay...

This afternoon we were in our four-oared boat making for the opposite shore, as we thought free, and on our way to the coast; but in the middle of the lake we were boarded by a war canoe containing the very man -- Huka-- who murdered without cause Hunga, a Waikato chief, which was the cause of the present war. As soon as our vessels touched, he sprung up, rushed forward, and in a defiant manner (as though we durst not refuse) held out his hand. Mr. Chapman, who was nearest to him, refused to touch it. And when we denied this cold-blooded murderer the customary salute and exchange of native courtesy, his eyes became red with rage, and his voice fierce and convulsed with passion. Our silent contempt and rebuke seemed to madden him. But when he saw that neither his quivering patiti nor his violent menaces could move the men who were before him, he became baffled and confounded, altered his manner, and durst go no further. 10 From this canoe

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we learned that Hikairo would return by a way we are ignorant of, that by going on we should miss him, and as our chief object at present is to see this man, whose tribe plundered the settlement, we again returned to the island, having no idea when we shall quit it next; yet one thing seems quite, certain, that soon we shall be starved out, and then I suppose we must go somewhere else.

17th. --Sometimes for recreation and exercise we leave our dark and damp little den, and take a row on the lake. This evening, during a walk, we heard the good news of Hikairo's return. Should he listen to our terms, the missionaries will remain, but if otherwise, they must be removed. Our long sojourn may have had its use, for the more the people see of us the better. By this they gradually see and know "what manner of men we are," and as they become more interested in us, so we possess more influence in their councils in seasons of difficulty and war.

If the large boat which I ordered at the Bay of Islands is finished, and could be sent down, it would be useful in opening up intercourse with Whakatane when the way by land is closed or dangerous. By such visits we may bring about a peace between Ngatihaua and our Tauranga people. When I return to Tauranga I intend building a small house on Panepane, the island opposite, about two miles from the Papa, that in the event of being burnt out at the station some shelter may remain to fall back upon.

My love to our dear boys.
Ever, beloved Anne,
Your affectionate husband,
J. A. WILSON.

(In December, after a severe sickness in the family, Mr. and Mrs. Wilson left the Puriri for the Bay of Islands, where they met with a kind reception from the Williams's family.)

Waimate, January 9th, 1837. --At a pa on the high land beyond the Waimate I saw a native who was dying of consumption. He was much reduced, able only to speak at intervals. When I asked him what were his hopes respecting the future, and how it was with his soul, he replied "I am brought to nothing, my flesh is all gone; you see nothing but bones. But all is light within." How enviable, I thought, the lot of this poor man.

February 9th. --Left the Waimate to visit Tauranga, Mr. Ashwell accompanying me. We set sail in the afternoon from the station at Kirikiri Falls, and brought up for the night in a pleasant little cove not far from Cape Brett.

23rd. --Landed near Waitemata, and shot a number of sea-fowl; our gun of much value just now.

25th. --When off Wakatiwai some canoes came off to us. After gathering the news from the north, they offered a pig and some potatoes for sale. All now cheerful on board, the Maoris looking

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forward to refreshing themselves. Reached Mataparu at noon, unrigged the boat, and covered her well over. In the evening left in canoes for Puriri. Arrived at Tauranga March 2nd.

March 11th. --Enemy in the forest, hourly expecting an attack. Clementson (a European of Te Waharoa's, living at Matamata) sent me as a present a half-bred bull-dog, called his name Breezy, as a memento of the present state of things.

Extract of Report to the Church Missionary Society.
At night I used to place two young men in my boat, and anchor it off the end of an old fortification which formed part of the settlement. In the boat I also placed a change of clothing, and my dog. The clothing was necessary in the event of my house being attacked during the night, not knowing but that I might be treated with as little ceremony as the missionaries at Rotorua had been some months previously, who were stripped to their shirts and trousers.

March 30th. --Mr Ashwell and myself having arranged for our return to the Bay of Islands, I gave over the station in charge to Tahu. He was formerly a priest or Ariki, but now my faithful companion and "true yoke fellow." When other natives have been afraid to remain on the station Tahu continued with me steadfastly during the worst times. About ten or eleven o'clock at night he generally made his rounds, going some distance inland to discover, if possible, any trace of the enemy. A few nights since I was taking a look round before retiring, and as I came to the outer gate I saw Tahu standing a short distance from the fence. He had just returned from his rounds, the moon was shining full upon him. He was a short, strong-built man of about 45 years of age, round headed and rather bald; his face plain, good-natured and intelligent. The only garment he wore was a cotton shirt braced with a girdle. He was now resting upon his gun, cold and wet with the heavy dew of the bush. "Father," he said, "I have been some distance but can see nothing, hear nothing. What has become of the taua? They are perhaps hid and will appear when we least expect them." Tahu was always communicative on Maori subjects. One day, sitting with him alone, after a war party had passed through the settlement, he observed to me: "A few years since I had cultivations in the forest behind us. I lived there alone and though war parties sometimes passed by my house, none were hardy enough to touch a melon or potato I had planted. They were afraid to injure or steal anything I had!" "Why were they afraid of you?" I asked. "Because I was a priest." "A priest! What can a priest do?" Tahu, "What can he not do?" "Tell me truly, was not all your power mere assumption? Did it not rest in deceit and fraud and the superstitious fears of these people? Was there any truth in it?"

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Tahu, with his usual good nature, his eyes twinkling with pleasant cunning, replied, "My son, what is that now to us two, E tama, kia ahatia kia a taua aianei!" I asked him, "Did the Maori understand the difference between right and wrong, good and evil, before Christianity came amongst them?" He thought for a while, and then said, "Yes, they must have known this. They did not know it as they do now. But in those days, if a man stole another's goods, or wife, the injured man would take his stand upon some high place in the pa, and in the silence of the evening would call that all might hear, accusing the person who had wronged him, commencing his challenge with, 'What a bad man you are to have done so and so to me.' Therefore, when personally concerned, they knew the difference between good and evil." But to return, Mr. Ashwell and I left the Papa early, touching at Otumoetai on our way to Katikati. Here Te Waharoa and some of his tribe asked a passage up river. The wind was strong from the westward, and being met by the flood tide, occasioned a short breaking sea. The natives, though wet through by every spray, pulled well. At last a heavy sea struck the boat in the waist, more than half filling her with water; we were not far from an island at the time, but it was with difficulty we escaped and got on shore. Taharangi, the chief of this place, insisted on our remaining with him, and as there was no sign of any change in the weather, we were obliged to comply. And here at his kainga we sat for many hours in the midst of an indiscriminate heap of dogs, pigs, naked children, and half naked men and women, the old chief at the same time feasting us with kumara and fish; the wind covering everything with sand, and the swarms of flies were intolerable. At evening the wind fell, and we were, not sorry to leave this fishing village of our hospitable friend, and pull further up the river, where we pitched our tent for the night. Arrived at Mataparu (Kaweranga) on 1st April, and at the Bay of Islands on the 8th. At Otumoetai Te Waharoa gave me a message to the Ngapuhi chiefs. It was a waiata, song, as follows: --

TE WAHAROA'S WAIATA.

[In January, 1838, Mr. Wilson and his family had returned to Tauranga. This station was now occupied by three missionaries, namely, the Rev. A. N. Brown and Messrs. Stack and Wilson,

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together with their families. The dwellings were built with raupo (bulrush), facing seaward, near where the residence of the late Archdeacon Brown now stands. These houses were surrounded by gardens connecting with one another, a path running the whole length both front and rear; the fences were of manuka and very high. Here both flowers and fruit grew in abundance, and horses and cattle fared well on the rough feed around the settlement. On February 14th Mr. Wilson's fourth son George Alfred was born. -- Ed.]

Mrs. Wilson, after a long and painful illness, died at Tauranga on November the 23rd, and was buried in the cemetery where now rest so many of our soldiers and sailors who fell in the fight at the Gate Pa. A marble slab with the following inscription marks her grave:--

HONOR ET FIDES

ANNE CATHERINE WILSON,

WIFE OF

JOHN ALEXANDER WILSON,

Died 23 Nov., 1838,

AGED 33.

"I shall soon be beyond that star and shall be with Him." --A. C. W.

The following extract is from a letter of Mr. Wilson's to the Secretary of the C. M. S.: --"You will doubtless be among those who will sympathise with me in the day of my affliction, and when I tell you that 'the desire of mine eyes,' my beloved wife, under whose gentle influence the Lord first led me to a knowledge of myself and of my Saviour, is taken from me, you will perceive that my loss is great indeed.... Love to her God and Saviour led her to this land of darkness and sorrow, and though in the day of pain and sickness we were destitute of that aid which in other lands is deemed indispensable, she never once lamented her choice, nor made the slightest allusion to the loss of earthly conveniences with regret. No, she found in her God a rich recompense, a full and continual supply of comfort and love, and Christ's service to be its own reward, and the promise verified --I will never leave thee nor forsake, thee." 11 --See Church Missionary Record, August, 1839, p. 170, et seq.

NOTE. --In 1839, accompanied by two of his sons, Mr. Wilson took a short leave of absence and visited his uncle, Captain Allman, at Campbelltown, N. S. W., sailing from the Bay of Islands in the "Magnet" (Captain Watson), and returning in the "Achilles" (Captain Veale), the Rev. Richard Taylor coming at the same time to join the New Zealand Mission. By October 23rd Mr. Wilson was again at Tauranga. --ED.