1856 - Fitton, Edward. New Zealand: its Present Condition, Prospects and Resources - CHAPTER II. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW ZEALAND.

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CHAPTER II.

THE Islands, forming the group called New Zealand, are three in number, and are commonly known by the names of the North,-- Middle,--and the Southern, or Stewart's Island. Of these, the latter is but of small extent; and, from its ruggedness, the comparative inclemency of its climate, and its distance from any large harbour, it is at present entirely neglected by all emigrants to New Zealand.

The whole group is about 900 miles in length, extending from the 34th deg.; to 48th deg.; of latitude, south of the equator, and from the most westerly to the most easterly point, a space of nearly 13 degrees, from 166 deg. to 179 deg. of longitude east of Greenwich, or about 780 geographical miles, is included.

The Middle Island is of much more uniform breadth than the Northern one, which becomes

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very narrow at its northern extremity. A glance, however, at a map will convey a much better idea of the shape of the islands, than any description could do.

The North Island has been estimated to contain 31,174,400 acres; the Middle Island 46,126,080; and Stewart's Island about l,000,000 acres of land, in all 78,300,480 acres; and of this amount it is supposed, that after allowing liberally for mountainous districts, water and irreclaimable morasses or sandy tracts, at least two-thirds are capable of being beneficially occupied by the stockowner or agriculturist. Owing, however, to the want of roads, and bridges over the more important rivers, in many parts of the country, in addition to the fact, that a large portion of the interior of the North Island is at present occupied by the natives, who refuse to alienate any of their territories, beyond the districts already sold by them; it is probable, that many years will elapse, before any large extent of the improvable territories, at a distance from the principal towns and inlets in the coast, can be brought into cultivation.

Like many others of the South Sea islands, New Zealand is of volcanic origin. A chain of

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lofty sharp mountains intersects the Middle Island from N. E. to S. W. The highest peaks of this chain, which is called by the settlers the back-bone of the island, are clothed with perpetual snow; and in winter, when the whole range is snow covered, their appearance is strikingly grand. This range of mountains forms an almost impassable barrier between the east and west coast of the Middle Island, the eastern portion being for the most part a level district, or slightly undulating plain, extending from the mountains to the coast, and varying in breadth from 40 to 60 miles, intersected by numerous rivers, flowing from the high mountain ranges, in a due easterly course towards the sea.

The mountain districts on the western side of this island are of so rugged and inhospitable a nature, as to be almost valueless for pastoral purposes; so that, with the exception of the Nelson settlement in the north of the island, the eastern half only of the Middle Island is occupied by Europeans. 1

The mountains on the North Island do not form so continuous a chain, and with the ex-

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ception of a few detached peaks, do not attain so great a height, as those of the Middle Island.

There are, however, several extinct volcanoes near the centre of the island, and one in active operation, the name of which is Tongariro, near which are situated Lake Taupo and several smaller lakes, the water of which is naturally tepid. 2

A considerable portion of the country, round Lake Taupo, consists of table lands, lying at an equal elevation with it; and upon these tracts of country, and the districts east and southwest of them, a large proportion of the native population of New Zealand are established.

The number of the natives, or as they call themselves "Maori," now living in the islands of New Zealand, has been variously estimated; perhaps the most accurate computation is about 100,000, nearly 80,000 dwelling in the North Island. 3 They are generally a tall, strong, well-formed race of olive complexion, brave, and possessed of great intelligence,

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The following remarks, as to the advantages resulting to the European population, from the intercourse with the natives of the present day, are quoted from a description of Auckland and its neighbourhood, published in 1853.

"Fearing probably a collision between the colonists and the natives, the founders of some of the more recent settlements have planted them far away to the southward, and as distant as possible from the native-peopled districts.

"But a different feeling prevails among the northern colonists; the people of Auckland and its neighbourhood were, for several years, almost entirely supplied by the natives with animal food, fish, potatoes, corn, and firewood; and to a considerable extent with labour. The natives have also been extensive purchasers of horses, and flour-mills, and coasting craft; large consumers of imported goods; and by means of their labour, they have now already augmented the exports of the north. In the absence of the natives, not a single kauri spar would be exported from New Zealand. Their territorial rights, as owners of the soil, too have always been scrupulously recognized, and respected by the settlers in the district; and each party, from the first, has seen the advantage to

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be derived from the presence of each other; and friendly relations have uniformly been maintained between them. Good-humoured, ever ready to enjoy a joke and a laugh, and always appearing self-satisfied and contented, their presence does much to give life to the northern districts of New Zealand."

It is fair, however, to remind the reader, that the above very favourable character of the native population is not supported by every description that has been published respecting them. Even in the Auckland district, where they appear in a most favourable light, many colonists declare them to be covetous and ungrateful. In the New Plymouth district, their conduct has certainly not been in any way beneficial to the emigrants, and even at the present time, as will be found in the description of New Plymouth, much anxiety and inconvenience is experienced by the colonists, in consequence of the native dissensions, which have produced many skirmishes between the rival tribes. Notwithstanding the favourable opinion of the natives, as a race of mankind, entertained by some of the settlers, and most visitors, in the northern parts of New Zealand, they are not nearly so highly estimated in the

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southern settlements. The few natives indeed, scattered about in small bodies in the southern parts of the country, are universally acknowledged to be an inferior race to their neighbours of the northern district. Being, for the most part, the descendants of vanquished and dispirited tribes, who took refuge in the south, after fleeing from superior adversaries, they have neither the physical advantages, nor the mental energy and intelligence, for which the once blood-thirsty savages of the north are now so distinguished.

A large proportion of the North Island, which has by far the warmest climate, is covered with a rich volcanic soil, like that which, in Italy, is found so well adapted to the cultivation of the vine. New Zealand has indeed in many points been compared to Italy, both in its geographical and geological features. It is a narrow strip of land, containing many tracts available for cultivation, which are separated one from another by ranges of mountains, and watered by streams, of no great importance to navigation, though of great advantage for pastoral and agricultural purposes.

The mountains, both in the North and in the Middle Island, are the sources of numerous

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streams, which flow into the sea, at various points along the extensive line of coast. As they rise at a considerable elevation, and yet have to reach the sea within a comparatively short distance, they are not generally navigable, for more than a few miles from the sea-shore. Indeed, in many parts of the country, these rivers are a very serious impediment to the progress of the colonists; the beds of some of the larger ones being wide channels of shifting shingle, through which a great body of water forces its way in many distinct, rapid, and shallow streams. 4

From the melting of the snow on the mountain tops in warm weather, and from the rapid escape of the rain from the precipitous slopes, in rainy seasons, floods in the river-beds are of frequent occurrence; and these often render the fording of a river a matter of great hazard, and even impossibility. It will probably be long, before these obstacles are entirely overcome; but, in the mean time, the stock-owners in the less frequented parts of the country, manage to travel to and from their stations, with provisions, or other necessaries, at most times of the year,

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without experiencing much inconvenience from the delays, sometimes occasioned on a journey by floods in the river-beds. These floods generally pass away as rapidly as they have appeared, and almost always subside in the course of a day or two.

Of course such a large extent of country, as New Zealand, must have very various climates; and upon this point--the climate of New Zealand--I think by far too high an estimate has been formed in England. Almost all Guide Books describe New Zealand as a most beautiful country in its scenery,--which is in some parts most certainly true, though not by any means universally so,--and they also dwell upon the excellence of its climate, against which description many colonists, who live at a distance from the almost tropical warmth of Auckland, and the most agreeable parts of the northern climate, have strongly protested. The disappointment experienced, after landing in the colony, and comparing the reality with the very high opinions they had formed of the climate, previous to leaving England, has in fact been one of the most serious complaints the recent emigrants have made against the country.

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"The climate of New Zealand, though undoubtedly good, has been described injudiciously, and without discrimination--beautiful, delightful, and splendid, are the epithets, which have commonly been applied to it. These terms naturally convey the impression of an atmosphere rarely disturbed by wind and rain. Until its true value comes to be appreciated by them, strangers are at first somewhat rudely disenchanted, by finding that their imaginary paradise can be visited, and that too rather roughly, by the winds and rains of Heaven. This disenchantment frequently takes place at an early period; for it not uncommonly happens that vessels enter a harbour in a gale of wind. Impatient to view the promised land, the new-comer, in spite of the weather, lands without delay. Wading along a sloppy clay road, in a boisterous gale of wind and rain, with perhaps air umbrella turned inside out in one hand, and his hat jammed tight on his head with the other, he can scarcely divest himself of the idea, that the ship must have lost her reckoning, and mistaken her port. But in New Zealand, as elsewhere, a storm is followed by a calm, and if disenchanted to-day, the new arrival will probably be charmed to-

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morrow by one of those bright, calm and lovely mornings, whose beauty no language can fittingly describe. The fact is, that the climate of a country may be fertile and salubrious, and such is the climate of New Zealand, without being invariably either splendid or delightful." 5

On the whole, the weather of New Zealand in the northern districts, though never excessively hot, is at all seasons of the year very warm, but far less sultry than in the corresponding latitudes of Australia. While, even in the south, the winters are far less inclement than in England, their principal features being violent storms of rain, accompanied by gales from the south-west--which occasionally last several days; but these are not of frequent occurrence. The most disagreeable feature, both in summer and winter, is the wind, which sweeps across the open country, carrying dust from the river beds, and driving rain before it, in a way that occasionally sends whole flocks of sheep flying in confusion before it, in hope of finding shelter in the hollows.

"The climate of New Zealand is better

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adapted to an English constitution than that of any other part of our colonies. The great preponderance of water overland, in the southern hemisphere, causes a lower degree of heat in any latitude, than in a similar latitude of the northern hemisphere, where land preponderates over water. The temperature of New Zealand, therefore, somewhat resembles that of the land between the south of Portugal and the middle of France, or rather, from its insular character, that which Great Britain would enjoy if its centre lay 1200 miles to the west of Cape Finisterre. The extremes of heat in summer and cold in winter are within very narrow limits; for the immense expanse of ocean, which surrounds these narrow islands on all sides, moderates alike the heat of the tropics and the cold of the antarctic regions. The phenomena of climate, in which we observe England to differ very much from New Zealand, such as the greater cold in winter and during certain winds, appear to arise from the greater proximity of the nearest continents.

"The Seasons are nearly as follow:--

"Spring commences in the middle of August, summer in December, autumn in March, and winter in July. But the summer is

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without scorching heat, and the winter free from severe frosts. Except in the most southern parts, or on the high table lands, or on the sides of the highest mountains, ice is never seen after the sun has fairly risen, and snow never lies on the ground; and even at the extreme south, evergreen plants of the myrtle kind grow to the edge of the sea, and thrive better than in Devonshire, or the Isle of Wight. Hot winds and droughts, such as occur in New South Wales and the Cape of Good Hope, are wholly unknown in New Zealand; for a never-failing supply of moisture is shed on the mountain tops and forest lands, by the winds which blow from all quarters over a vast expanse of ocean.

"On the high table lands of the interior, even in the Northern Island, frosts sometimes occur, which affect such plants as acacias and potatoes; but this only happens near the coast; all along which the potato is planted at all seasons of the year, and the opening of the flower-buds is hardly retarded during the progress of winter.

"There is no distinct rainy season, and although it is rare for a fortnight to elapse without at least refreshing showers, determined

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rainy weather seldom lasts longer than three days, without clear intervals, during which everything, including the atmosphere, becomes quickly dry. With this last qualification it may be considered as a moist climate. There seems little doubt but that more rain falls during the year in New Zealand than in England. It rains during all the months in the year, but the greater quantity falls in the winter and spring; but the longest intervals between rain, and the smallest quantity when it does rain, generally occur about the end of December and January, or at the best period for the harvest of grain. The dews are heavy, particularly during the winter months; in the interior, mists rest over the lakes and river-courses in the mornings, but are soon dispelled by the rising sun, or driven away by the winds. Besides the disposition of the atmosphere to dry quickly, which has already been mentioned, it may be remarked that the physical configuration of New Zealand, and the geological formation of the hills, are in general such, that the water is rapidly carried towards the coast; the lakes have always an outlet, and, considering the unreclaimed state of the country, swamps are not excessively numerous or extensive. Such as do exist, are gene-

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rally attributable to the clayey nature of the sub-soil. They are certainly not of sufficient importance to influence the general state of the humidity of the air, or to render it insalubrious. In consequence of this great quantity of moisture, the vegetation is remarkably vigorous, even in places where only a thin layer of vegetable earth covers the rock. Sandy places, which in any other country would be quite barren, are covered with herbage in New Zealand. Everywhere trees and shrubs grow to the margin of the sea, and suffer no harm even from the salt spray. On the coasts of New Zealand, and especially near those parts of it which are high and mountainous, wind is frequent, and tolerably strong. The general direction of strong gales is west or south, varying, however, from these points, according to the form of the coast. Near the shores of Cook's Strait, which is about the centre of the islands, you may sleep agreeably during three-fourths of the year with your bed-room window open; yet when confined to the house by rain or violent winds, you can generally enjoy a small fire, in the partially weather-tight residences of the early colonists. Except in those rare cases, it is most pleasant to be employed

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out of doors; for not only is vegetation highly luxuriant, whether of the trees or of the pastures, but perpetual, and the atmosphere so clear, that objects are visible at a great distance; and the varying, but ever beautiful, tints of the bright sky, and picturesque scenery are a constant source of admiration. Cattle and sheep never require to be housed, as there is no frost or excessive damps to injure them, and the pasturage lasts throughout the year. Fogs, excepting always the morning exhalations above mentioned, are almost unknown, excepting in the southern extremity of the islands, and even the southerly winds, springing as they do from the antarctic regions, are so tempered by the extent of water over which they pass, as to be totally free from the unpleasant qualities of our English easterly winds."

In the above observations on the climate of New Zealand, I have been largely indebted to Mr. E. J. Wakefield's "Handbook to New Zealand," published in 1848; my own experience having since then fully confirmed all the remarks I have quoted from his book. I myself never remember an entire day, at any season of the year, when a great coat in walking, except during actual rain, would not have proved an

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oppressive encumbrance. On the whole, to sum up these observations on the climate of New Zealand, it may be said, that the weather, though never equal to our best and pleasantest English weather (I mean the glorious long genial days in June, as well as a few of our occasional delightful mornings in spring), is, on the whole, far more equable and agreeable than that of England, and at no time so inclement as the worst, or in fact a great portion of our winter months. The days are in general an hour shorter in summer, and an hour longer in the winter, than in England. Of twilight there is little or none.

I have already mentioned, that there are in New Zealand no quadrupeds, but those imported by Europeans; no fish in the fresh-water lakes, or in any of the rivers, excepting eels; though in great abundance and variety on the sea coast; and but very few birds in most parts of the country. 6

The scenery, especially in the open glades of the forests in the warmer districts, is often ex-

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tremely beautiful. The tall tree-ferns and large flowering forest trees, for many of the larger trees bear flowers in New Zealand, also add much to the beauty of the woods, but the almost entire absence of animated life, renders them gloomy and monotonous.

Notwithstanding all that may be said in praise of the extreme beauty of the scenery in some portions of New Zealand, where the natural undulations of the ground, the wild mountainous hills in the distance, and dense forests of magnificent timber, interspersed with numerous flowery creepers, running down to the water's edge, with foliage surpassing in richness of colour any of our native trees, all combine to increase the beauty of the landscape,--it will be found by the emigrant, that many of the most populous and valuable districts are placed among scenery which is neither bold nor picturesque, presenting few of the characteristics of New Zealand landscape, and with nothing to remind the spectator that he is looking upon a foreign country.

The least picturesque districts in many parts of the country, affording better pasture, with few shrubs or unsavoury plants to render the herbage unpalateable, and a soil level and un-

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encumbered for vegetation and tillage, are frequently the most prized for agricultural purposes.

Besides other less important places on various parts of the coast, both on the north and the south islands, where a few Europeans have located themselves, there are now altogether six principal Settlements in New Zealand, the communication between which is almost wholly carried on by sea. However, a mail bag is sent, at regular intervals, over-land, between Auckland and Wellington; the messenger generally occupying about three weeks on his journey, which is chiefly performed on foot. Large herds of cattle and sheep have also been driven over-land, and across the rivers from Nelson in the Middle Island, southward to the Canterbury Plains, and again from Otago northward to Canterbury; so that there is now a well defined traversable route over-land, though not easily passable at the river fords, from the sea coast north of the Middle Island, down to the southernmost portion of the island, which is occupied by settlers or their flocks.

The names of these six chief Settlements are, commencing from the northward, Auckland, New Plymouth, and Wellington in the

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North Island; and Nelson, Canterbury, and Otago in the Middle Island; in addition to which, there is a large number of settlers, scattered about the Bay of Islands to the north of Auckland, and several other small locations, chiefly in the Northern Island, which have not acquired sufficient importance to obtain distinctive appellations for themselves. The South or Stewart's Island has not been colonized by English emigrants.

In the following chapters will be found a more detailed account of each of these Settlements. It will be sufficient in this place to mention them in the order in which they were first organized, as distinct settlements in the colony of New Zealand.

The first to be described is Auckland, the site of which was fixed upon by Captain Hobson, in the year 1840, as the seat of Government in New Zealand, on account of its central position--it being easily accessible by sea from both the eastern and western coasts, and also from its great facility of internal water communication, and the proximity of several smaller ports, abounding with valuable timber--in addition to which, it is the nearest sea-port in New Zealand to the shores of Australia. In

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reference to other parts of New Zealand, it resembles Sidney among the Australian colonies, in being the official residence of the Governor and executive authorities. It has a large trading population, and a great number of vessels sailing from its harbours, and is in fact a commercial capital, rather than a provincial settlement of merchants and storekeepers, having a population chiefly occupied in pastoral and agricultural pursuits, like the more recently established colonies in the southern portions of the islands.

Wellington, founded in 1839, and Nelson, in 1841, were two of the earliest colonies founded by the New Zealand Company. Both of them are now flourishing settlements, the former on the north, the latter on the south of Cook's Strait, thus combining within a small space, on the other side of the world, the names of three of our most celebrated countrymen.

The early colonists of both these settlements incurred hardships and difficulties, which no emigrants since their time have experienced. At first much suffering and disappointment was caused by the hasty manner in which the New Zealand Company sent out emigrants, without having sufficiently prepared for their arrival. And

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afterwards, the natives, when they saw the great improvements in the land, effected by the industry of the colonists, began to repent of having sold all claim to their territories. In the skirmishes, resulting from the violent endeavours of the natives to dispossess the colonists from the allotments, which they had cultivated and built upon, many of the settlers, as well as British soldiers sent out to their assistance, were killed.

These disturbances were however finally overcome by Governor Grey, and for the last ten years both settlements have been steadily and peacefully progressing.

The fourth settlement, on the south-west coast of the North Island, is New Plymouth; it is very beautifully situated, though rather difficult of access by sea, owing to the ruggedness of the coast, and the want of a proper harbour, and moreover of but limited extent, as the natives, who are very numerous in that part of the country, cannot be induced to part with the large tracts of territory in their possession, by which it is surrounded, and which include some of the best agricultural land in the whole of New Zealand. New Plymouth was founded in 1841; the first body

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of emigrants having been, almost entirely, Devonshire people or their friends.

The fifth in order is Otago, of which the port is called Dunedin, established in 1845, by members of the Scotch Presbyterian religion, and has not of late years so rapidly increased in population and importance as most of the other settlements. The pasturage plains to the north of Otago extend into the Canterbury district, as does the pasturage district, north of Canterbury, into the Nelson sheep and cattle grazing lands. In fact, the whole of the country between Nelson and Otago, on the eastern half of the Middle Island, is now as closely occupied by sheep and cattle stations, as it is likely to be for many years to come, until the land in places remote from the seaports begins to be cultivated for agricultural purposes.

The most recent of the six settlements is Canterbury, first acknowledged, as a distinct colony, by the arrival of emigrants from England, on the 16th of December, 1850; which, from its vast open plains affording such an expanse of pasture for the stock-owner, as well as its excellent harbour, rich soil, and other advantages for agriculturists, bids fair to surpass all others in its ultimate importance.