[CHAPTER 1]
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NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE IN NEW ZEALAND.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
I HAD the fortune to be connected with the first expedition despatched by the New Zealand Company for the purpose of acquiring territory and selecting the site of their first settlement. While examining the country for this purpose, and during a subsequent residence in New Zealand, I had many opportunities of acquiring a knowledge of the various parts of the country, and of making myself acquainted with the advantages which present themselves in those portions which have been already settled.
The expedition left England in May, 1839, in the Tory , and arrived in New Zealand in the following August, fortunately in time to allow of the country being sufficiently explored before the arrival of the settlers, and to cause the judicious selection of the site of the Company's first enterprise.
On first sighting New Zealand, we were disap-
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APPEARANCE OF THE COAST.
pointed with the appearance of the coast. The high mountain ranges of the middle island, terminating abruptly on the south side of Cook's Strait, in several long promontories, seem to leave no space for cultivable land; while the country generally appears sterile and unworthy of settlement. Between these promontories, however, the best harbours are situated; and although they are surrounded with but little available land, yet, in some instances, they communicate with large agricultural districts in the interior.
On entering any of the harbours in Cook's Strait, it is immediately seen that the land, which at a distance had an appearance of sterility, is in reality of the richest and most fertile nature. The hills are covered luxuriantly with foliage to the water's edge, and so far from their being barren, the deep black vegetable mould, which for ages has been accumulating, produces the most splendid growth of forest, many of the trees in which are really of stupendous size.
The first place we visited was Queen Charlotte's Sound. This, although without exception the finest harbour in New Zealand, was not considered suitable as the locality of the first settlement, as there was not a sufficiency of level land for the wants of the colony, notwithstanding many very beautiful patches of level and fertile land are to be found in the vicinity of its numerous bays and creeks.
It was necessary, before the expedition proceeded to explore the adjacent coasts, that the ship should be refitted; and during the consequent delay we had excellent opportunities of examining the surrounding districts, and of becoming in a measure acquainted with the native character and customs.
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PORT NICHOLSON.
After having explored the various arms of Queen Charlotte's Sound, Cloudy Bay, and the Pelorus River, it was decided that the country in the vicinity of these harbours was not adapted for colonization on a large scale, because, although there was much land, with excellent water communication, and of great fertility, which might amply repay the industry of a scattered population, it would not suffice to carry out the plans of the Company. From Queen Charlotte's Sound we proceeded to Port Nicholson, which is only a few hours' sail across the strait.
On entering Port Nicholson, one is struck with the grandeur of the view. The harbour resembles an inland lake rather than an arm of the sea, and in beauty, certainly far surpasses that of our English lakes. As we worked up to the anchorage, the noble expanse of water, surrounded by a country of the most picturesque character, formed a scene of indescribable beauty; and as the valley of the Hutt river opened to our view, apparently extending far inland until bounded by the snowy range, we wondered that a place which seemed so much to invite settlement, had not before been colonized.
On examining the bay, we found an inner harbour, with a convenient site for a town on its shores, and on penetrating the country, we ascertained that it was generally of a far more available nature than we had at first supposed. The extent of level country did not appear sufficient for all the wants of the colony about to be formed, but we were aware of the existence of large tracts of level country inland, to which there might be easy communication. The excellence of the harbour, and its superiority in point of centrical position, together with the desire of the aborigines for its settlement by white people, mainly deter-
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PORT NICHOLSON.
mined its selection as the site of the Company's first settlement. 1
Amongst the various harbours which we afterwards visited, we found none so well adapted for settlement as that which had been fixed on. Those possessing large tracts of level land in their immediate vicinity, were all either of difficult access, or insecure for shipping; and with the advantages enjoyed by Port Nicholson, it appeared conclusively, that that place was better adapted for the seat of a large and increasing community, and also for the entrepot of the trade of the islands than any other locality which we had seen, or were likely to find.
In the acquisition of the district from the natives, great care was taken that they should fully comprehend the terms on which they relinquished their rights, and the plan of the Company in respect of the land to be reserved for their benefit. On being told the amount of the immediate payment, their most influential chiefs replied, "that they cared but little about what would be given them for their land, but that they wanted white men and women to settle amongst them, and to bring cattle, and grow corn;" they added, "that the people from Port Jackson, and the missionaries, had repeatedly, when endeavouring to purchase land, promised to come and live with them, but had never done so."
The natives of Port Nicholson have since proved that they appreciate the introduction of European
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PORT NICHOLSON.
civilization; and that, notwithstanding the efforts of the missionaries to render them dissatisfied with their altered condition, they are contented with the quantity of land reserved for them, and now never interfere with the location of the settlers on their respective property. Such, indeed, is their disposition to mix with the European population, that it is to be expected the two races will eventually be entirely amalgamated.
The celerity with which the first expedition had been planned and dispatched, proved of service in defeating the projects of the missionaries and Sydney speculators. These persons, it appeared, finding that the systematic colonization of the country had been undertaken, and knowing the value which would consequently attach to all eligible localities for settlement, determined to acquire those spots most adapted to the Company's objects, with the intention of reselling them at the highest price they might be able to obtain. The rapaciousness of these individuals soon became apparent; and not being in time to precede us, they were necessitated to purchase only such places as were not worthy the attention of the Company, or to acquire the right of some inferior chief to a district already purchased. It was amusing to find these disinterested persons following us every where. The Tory only left Port Nicholson, after the acquisition of that district, to be succeeded by the missionary schooner, containing Mr. Williams and party; who finding that they could not obtain that place, proceeded to the Wanganui River, as being the most likely place to engage the attention of the Company's agent after the settlement of Port Nicholson.
At the Wanganui they were equally unsuccessful,
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NORTHERN DISTRICTS.
and found that their anticipated influence as missionaries was unavailing with the natives; the white party, therefore, returned to the Bay of Islands, having failed in accomplishing its praiseworthy object.
On visiting the northern parts of the island, which we did after having acquired the various districts around Cook's Strait most suitable for colonization, it became apparent to us that the country beyond Mount Egmont, or, at the farthest, Kafia, was not at all adapted for immediate settlement, on account of the absence of good harbours. The land around Mount Egmont was the finest which we had seen in New Zealand; but in consequence of the insecurity of the anchorage, many objections presented themselves to its immediately becoming the scene of the Company's operations.
The Bay of Islands, and the Hokianga and Kaipara rivers presented no advantages for immediate settlement. An illegitimate importance had become attached to the first of these places on account of its being the residence of the missionaries. Being also a good harbour, a number of Sydney merchants established themselves there to supply the whaling vessels which frequented the coast with provisions, &c. A small commercial community had thus grown up around the missionary station, dependent entirely upon trading, and without a sufficiency of available land in the neighbourhood for its own support. The Sydney merchants, who had bought land there on account of the valuable "Kauri" fir that it produced, but which was in other respects nearly worthless, finding that it was not likely to be of any farther value to them, at least for agricultural purposes, had endeavoured to dispose of it in New South Wales,
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NORTHERN DISTRICTS.
and had accordingly trumpeted forth its excellences, and asserted its pre-eminent eligibility for the chief settlement in New Zealand. The missionaries, for the same reasons, had acted in a like manner, and naturally looked with jealousy on the systematic settlement of any but their own land. It may fairly be said that all the detraction and abuse of the colonial papers, at the time of the formation of the Company's first colony, originated in the party interests of the various claimants of land in New Zealand, or in jealousy at the direction of the tide of emigration setting towards the Company's settlements.
The land around the Hokianga and Kaipara rivers, although better than that near the Bay of Islands, cannot be settled by an agricultural population for many years, as those harbours are of difficult, and one of extremely dangerous, access. The nature of the land is also inferior, and in all places where the Kauri pine grows is peculiarly barren. The open country is generally covered with a dry mould upon a sandy subsoil, and in the forest districts the stiff red clay is, on account of its sterility, unfit for cultivation. The timber, however, at present forms a valuable article of export.
