1932 - Elder, J. (Ed.) The Letters and Journals of Samuel Marsden - CHAPTER V. MARSDEN'S FOURTH NEW ZEALAND JOURNAL

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CHAPTER V

MARSDEN'S FOURTH NEW ZEALAND JOURNAL

THIS day, Tuesday, July 22nd, 1823, I embarked on board the Brampton for New Zealand with a view of visiting the missionary stations in that island belonging to the Church Missionary Society. The Brampton (Captain Moore) is a very fine ship upwards of 150 tons burden. The following persons embarked with me in the service of the Society:-- the Rev. Henry Williams with Mrs. Williams, 1 three children, and one man and maid servant, Mr. Fairburn, his wife and two children, and my own man servant. There were also the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Turner, Wesleyan missionaries, 2 and a Mr. Hobbs, who are going to join their brethren in New Zealand. The day is very fine, but little wind.

I feel very anxious to see New Zealand once again, to observe the progress that has been made in the improvement of the poor heathen. It is now more than two years since I left the island. Much good and much evil since that period have appeared amongst them, and many obstructions to the work of the mission. I am still confident that this land of darkness and superstition will be visited by the Day Star from on High. "The Glory of the Lord shall be revealed, and all flesh shall see it together; for the mouth of the Lord hath spoken it." O Lord let Thy Kingdom come, and then Thy Will shall be done on earth as it is in Heaven!

Wednesday, July 23rd.--Last night we were obliged for want of wind to come to anchor near the Heads, and this morning at daylight we weighed anchor and cleared the Heads of the harbour about eight o'clock with a fair breeze; this morning was very fine. I feel happy

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that I am leaving the colony, for a little time, in which I have suffered much annoyance and vexation from unreasonable and wicked men. Perhaps if I had not met these vexations I should have felt less inclination to have left my comfortable home and family. In the midst of all I feel I am in the path of duty, and therefore can leave with quietness and confidence my family and all my concerns in His hands Who keepeth Israel and never slumbereth nor sleepeth.

In reflecting upon the state of New Zealand, there are many things in the mission that give me both pleasure and pain. I am happy that the Church Missionary Society has not relinquished the cause, but has sent out more strength to carry on the work. Many have been the discouragements from the improper conduct of some of the Society's servants, 3 but I am confident that "the sword of the spirit which is the word of God" shall subdue the hearts of these poor heathen to the obedience of faith. Moses by Divine command selected twelve princes, rulers in their respective tribes, to spy out the land of Canaan. They went through the land, but, when they returned, they brought up an evil report of the land which they had searched and told Moses that they were not able to go up and take the land. Ten of the twelve princes joined in this report, but Caleb and Joshua said, "We are able to go up at once and possess it." As long as a Caleb and a Joshua remain in

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New Zealand, the land will be taken; though it cannot be said to be the promised land, a land flowing with milk and honey, yet it is the land of promise. I have no doubt but I shall find some on my arrival faithful to the cause, though others, who once ran well, have turned aside from the path of duty and brought an evil report upon the mission. How mysterious are the ways of God! He permits men to engage in His work; they labour for a time with honour to themselves and to the cause in which they are employed, and at length they are taken in the snare of the Devil, fall from their steadfastness, bring guilt upon their own consciences, pierce themselves through with the bitterest sorrows, and go mourning all their future days. What warnings ought these be to all the followers of Christ!

Friday, August ist.--This evening we made the Three Kings, off the North Cape of New Zealand, and ran between the islands and the mainland. The sea ran mountains high and the gale was very heavy. We had met with nothing material during our passage excepting rough, stormy weather part of the way.

Saturday, August 2nd.--This morning we found ourselves to the southward of the Cape, and before twelve o'clock saw the North Head of the Bay of Islands, but the wind was unfavourable. In the evening we arrived opposite the mouth of the harbour, but could not work in as the wind was directly against us. We observed the brig Queen Charlotte a few miles to leeward of the Brampton, working up. Both vessels lay on and off during the night.

Sunday, August 3rd.--At daylight this morning the Queen Charlotte was about three miles to windward, working up into the harbour with a contrary wind. The Brampton being light, she did not hold her wind. In working up we had stood in on one tack pretty far over to the south side of the harbour. When the ship was put about she struck upon a rock, but received no injury. In the evening, at dusk, we came to anchor in Kororareka Bay, about nine miles from the missionary settlement Rangheehoo (Rangihoua). None went on shore this evening. It being the Sabbath I administered the Sacrament in my cabin in the morning and in the evening we had Divine service between decks. We had preached to the ship's company every evening, from our leaving Port Jackson, when the weather would permit, and had found it profitable to ourselves and it may, through the Divine blessing, prove profitable to them that heard us.

Monday, August 4th.--This morning I went on shore at Rangheehoo and saw Messrs. Hall, King, and Cowell. 4 They and their families were all well. I learned that the Revs. Leigh and White were settled at Wangarooa and that Mr. Shepherd was with them. It was Mr. Leigh's original intention to have settled to the southward of the Bay of Islands, either at Wangaree (Whangarei) or in some other station nearer the River Thames. He had been to the southward, but found that the inhabitants were either killed or driven from their homes by

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the wars that have taken place along the coast since I was there three years ago. 5

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Mr. Leigh and his colleagues had steered their course to the northward about fifty miles from the Bay of Islands. There is a very considerable population in the harbour of Wangarooa, where the Boyd was cut off about sixteen years ago. It was my intention to have fixed the Rev. H. Williams in that station when we left Port Jackson, and I purposed that Mr. Shepherd should accompany him as he had acquired considerable knowledge of the language, and I had written to Mr. Shepherd on the subject. I was informed that the Rev. S. Leigh was very ill, and that it would be necessary to recall Mr. and Mrs. Shepherd again to the Bay of Islands, as the tribe to whom he had originally been sent required his return. The station the Rev. S. Leigh had fixed upon is a very important one, and I hope the mission will succeed in that very spot where so many of our countrymen were sacrificed and eaten by the natives.

The Rev. Mr. Turner and Mr. Hobbs set off as soon as they could to Wangarooa by land, taking with them a native guide, in order to see their colleagues and to consult measures for the removal of themselves and baggage to their intended station. It appeared to me very providential that the Rev. S. Leigh had fixed upon this place for their missionary labours, as they might keep up a communication with the missionaries of the Church Missionary Society by land, and be of mutual advantage to each other.

I now determined to settle the Rev. H. Williams on the south side of the Bay of Islands, about sixteen miles from Kiddee Kiddee, twelve miles from Rangheehoo and twelve from Rangheehoo or Pyheea (Paihia). 6 After spending the day with Mr. Hall I returned on board the Brampton in the evening.

Tuesday, August 5th.--The Rev. Mr. Williams and myself went to Wytanghee (Waitangi) to see if we could fix upon a situation for a new settlement. The land is very good and the situation beautiful. We had some conversation with the inhabitants on the subject, and told them what our intentions were; but could come to no arrangements with them as the principal chiefs were absent at the wars. We crossed the Wytanghee River and examined the ground upon the opposite side, which appeared very good also. There is a large population at both of these places, and a number of very fine children, who continually surrounded us. The head chief of this place was also gone to the wars, so that we could not come to any final determination this day, and therefore returned on board in the evening.

Wednesday, August 6th.--I, this day, called a full committee of all the missionaries at Kiddee Kiddee, with the exception of the Rev. H. Williams, when the resolutions of the parent Committee, transmitted to me from London, were read and considered until a very late hour in the evening. The evils censured in these resolutions could not be denied--the concerns of the mission had been for a long time in a very deranged state through the improper conduct of the mission. Great immoralities had been committed, and all unity and Christian love

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appeared to have been entirely extinguished, and pride and envy and a worldly spirit had gained the dominion over them as a body. I was astonished that the mission had not been entirely annihilated by the animosities that existed and the scandalous sins into which some of them had fallen. The natives had generally behaved well, and would not interfere in their differences. The missionaries had met with comparatively few difficulties from the natives, and if they had acted as Christian men their difficulties would have been less. The missionaries admitted also that there could be no doubt but that the mission would finally succeed if things were conducted properly amongst themselves: that the evils originated in their body. They expressed their regret for their past misconduct, and a determination to act in a different manner in future. Some, I have no doubt, will be more correct and will labour to retrace their steps, but I have not the same confidence in all. Many men express sorrow for their sins, but their sorrow is not of that nature to cure them. Temptations to evil recur again and they fall. I wish this may not be the case with some in the mission. In reading the resolutions of the parent committee, I endeavoured to impress on their minds the importance of the different subjects they contained, and to warn them against the consequences of their departing from their public duty in future. At a very late hour we closed our deliberations for that time, and deferred the further consideration of the resolutions to another opportunity.

Thursday, August 7th.--This morning I left Kiddee Kiddee in company with the Rev. Henry Williams, and proceeded to Pyheea in order to fix upon a new station for him about sixteen miles from the above settlement. We examined the ground and determined upon Mr. Williams taking up his residence here. The land is situated on the banks of the Cowa Cowa (Kawakawa) River. The head chief was gone to war. He had lived with me at Parramatta, and I knew him to be a very worthy man who would make no objection to Mr. Williams living there when he returned. It was therefore resolved to begin immediately to prepare a place for lodging the stores, and a temporary building for Mrs. Williams and family. The natives belonging to the village were directed to collect the materials for a thatched building and to erect it with all possible dispatch, as the master of the Brampton was urgent to land the stores from the vessel. The day was very stormy and wet, and we were not able to return to the Brampton, which lay about eight miles off. With some difficulty we reached the Queen Charlotte after dark, very cold and wet, where we remained all night. We had the misfortune to have our boat swamped alongside the brig, and lost our oars.

Friday, August 8th.--This morning I visited the Rev. T. Kendall and had some conversation with him relative to his unhappy situation. I thought it proper to prepare his mind a little before I delivered to him the Society's letter and the resolution containing the order for his dismissal. He was considerably agitated at our first meeting. I felt much both for him and his family. He appears to have been wholly under the dominion of ungovernable lusts, pride, and passion, with all their attendant evils. I am convinced that he never will recover himself out of the snare of the devil while he remains in New Zealand, but will

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be lost to himself, his family, and society, and that there is so safety or comfort for him or his family but in his removal from the island. At present he seems determined not to leave New Zealand. He told me he had the means of living within himself and he was resolved to remain. I did not think it prudent to argue much with him on the subject at this time, as I should have other opportunities to speak to him when he would be more cool; I therefore left him and returned on board the Brampton with Mr. Williams.

On my arrival I found that the Rev. Mr. Turner had returned from Wangarooa. He brought me a letter written by the desire of the Rev. S. Leigh, who was so unwell that he could not write himself. Mr. Leigh requested me to go over and see him, and arrange with the chief (commonly called George) for the land they wished to settle upon, as they could not come to any terms with him. From the account Mr. Turner gave me of Mr. Leigh's state of health, I was satisfied that he was totally unfit for his situation at Wangarooa, that he could not bear the privations and anxiety inseparably connected with a missionary's situation in a new station in a heathen land. I determined, if possible, to visit him before my return to Port Jackson, and see if anything could be done to administer to his comfort and relief. Mr. Turner pressed me much on this subject, as he thought Mr. Leigh was so ill that he was not likely ever to recover.

Saturday, August 9th.--I remained on board all the day to arrange the necessary measures for landing the stores, etc. Mrs. H. Williams and her children went to Kiddee Kiddee, and Mrs. Turner, her little girl, and maid servant were taken to Rangheehoo until some opportunity offered for Mrs. Turner and family joining their mission at Wangarooa.

This day (Sunday, August 10th) I preached at Rangheehoo and administered the holy sacrament in the morning. The Rev. Mr. Williams preached in the evening. We had a quiet and comfortable day. The natives were catechized by Mr. William Hall, and sang some hymns and repeated some prayers in their own language, which was exceeding gratifying to my mind. I observed with much pleasure that the natives in every place were much improved in their appearance and manners since I last visited them, and that, notwithstanding the misconduct of the Europeans, the work was gradually going on and the way preparing for the blessings of the Gospel to be imparted unto them. I have no doubt but the greatest difficulties are now over, and God will either incline the hearts of those who are now in New Zealand to devote themselves to the instruction of the natives, or He will find other instruments to do His work. The present missionaries, though some of them have erred greatly from the right way, yet they all have had their trials, their fears, and their troubles. Some allowance must be made for their peculiar situation, their want of Christian society and the public ordinances of religion, such privileges as are enjoyed by the Church of God in England. I have a lofty tree upon one of my estates in New South Wales. It stands upon the summit of a hill. When I first got possession of the land, this tree was surrounded with many more. It appeared from its strength and stateliness that it would stand uninjured for ages. I removed all the rest and left it to stand alone as a conspicuous ornament, when it soon withered and died. It still remains in its former situation,

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a dead, leafless object, and has furnished me with many reflections at different times. Remove a Christian from London who is bearing the fair fruits of righteousness, like a tree planted by the water side, into the barren deserts of New Zealand, and I apprehend he would in a short time put on a faded appearance and his leaves droop and wither. If missionaries in heathen lands lose their spiritual strength, which they are very liable to do, it would be happy for them if they could be removed for a time into Christian society, till their strength is recruited and they are prepared for their work again.

Monday, August nth.--This morning I left Rangheehoo and went on board the Brampton, where most of the missionaries assembled in order to send off all the stores we could to Kiddee Kiddee, before the ship left her present anchorage. It was the master's intention to take the ship this day to the south side of the harbour, about nine miles from where we lay. After the goods were sent off, I accompanied the Revs. J. Butler and H. Williams to the head of Tarria's (Tareha) River, about six miles from the vessel, in order to fix upon another new station. After we had met the chief and his people and determined upon the ground where the settlement was to be formed, we gave directions to the natives to erect a temporary building for Mr. J. Butler and his wife, saying that they would immediately come and live amongst them as soon as it was ready. We afterwards returned to Rangheehoo, about twelve miles distant, where we arrived about sunset.

In the evening I called a special committee, when all the missionaries were present excepting Mr. William Hall who was absent on some other duty. We did not close our proceedings until about midnight. At this committee the resolutions of the Society were brought under consideration a second time, the respective salaries and some other concerns connected with the mission were arranged, when the committee was adjourned to another day.

Tuesday, August 12th.--This morning we procured what boards and other sawed timber we could from Mr. William Hall for the purpose of erecting a temporary building for the reception of the Rev. Henry Williams and his baggage and stores at Pyheea, in order that all his goods might be landed as soon as possible from the Brampton. We hired a large war canoe to take the boards, etc., to Mr. Williams's station, about nine miles distant on the south side of the harbour. We then proceeded on board the Brampton, accompanied by the Rev. J. Butler, Messrs. Kemp and King, in order that they might render what assistance they could to the Rev. Henry Williams in landing his stores and securing them on shore.

After all these matters were settled, I paid a second visit to the Rev. Thomas Kendall and delivered him my public letter, in which I had enclosed the Rev. Josiah Pratt's public letter and the resolution of the parent committee containing his dismissal from the service of the Society. When I handed him my letter and communicated to him its contents, he said he would not open it. He was determined to send it home to his friends just as it was. I replied that he would act in that respect as he thought proper, that as I had acquainted him verbally in what relation he now stood to the Society it was a matter of little

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moment whether he opened my letter or not. His conduct had compelled the Society to withdraw its countenance and patronage from him, and there was now an end of their connection. I informed him that I was authorized to find him and his family a passage to New South Wales and that he and his family could return with me in the Brampton. He still persisted in his determination to remain in New Zealand. I recommended him to consider the subject well--to consider his own situation in the island, the situation of his large family, the distressing prospect his children had before them. Some of them were now growing up men and women, and what were they to do amongst the heathens? They could not marry amongst the natives, and how were they to be settled in life? After advancing such reasons as I thought might weigh with Mr. Kendall in his cooler moments to induce him to leave New Zealand, I dropped the subject. I think he will alter his determination in a few days when his present feelings subside.

Since my arrival I had not lost any moment in examining the natives relative to their wars, their religion, customs, and manners, and, wishing to correct any error I might have fallen into for want of a more perfect knowledge of their language, I entered into conversation with Mr. Kendall upon these subjects, told him what enquiries I had made and what information I had gained, and requested him to correct any mistake I might have committed. I found Mr. Kendall at considerable loss to find English words to arrange his ideas, and to clothe them with such terms as to enable me to conceive what he wished me to understand. His reasoning upon the different subjects is so subtle and metaphysical that when he attempted to explain them I could not, with the utmost exertion of my mental powers, often comprehend what his meaning was. I am satisfied he has acquired a great knowledge of the native language, and also of their customs, manners, and religion; but whether he will be ever able to arrange these matters in a proper manner--in inoffensive language--so as to be of general benefit to those employed in the mission, is a matter of some doubt. By prying into the obscene customs and notions of the natives with a vitiated curiosity, his own mind has become so polluted that it will be very difficult for him to purify his ideas so far as to render what he writes acceptable to the public eye, and to make himself, at the same time, understood.

The character and history of the New Zealanders would be very interesting if it could be purely written. They are a noble race of men: they are very religious in their way, they are men of the first capacity of mind--men of great perseverance and enterprise--who never lose sight of an object that they set their mind upon" until they attain it. They are powerful reasoners upon every subject that has come within their knowledge, possess a quick conception, and are well acquainted with human nature. At present there is nothing in New Zealand but war to exercise their active minds. Should the arts of peace in time open to them the field of commerce to find them employment, they will then have less inclination for war. Upon all these subjects, as well as on the general concerns of the mission, I spent several hours' conversation with Mr. Kendall this day, and after dark returned on board the Brampton.

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During the time I had been on shore, the Snapper, a small cutter, had arrived from Port Jackson bound to the Society Islands.

Wednesday, August 13th.--It was resolved this morning to take up the Snapper to convey the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Turner and the Society's stores to Wangarooa to join the Revs. Leigh and White, as there was no prospect of their getting to their station by any other conveyance. As the Rev. S. Leigh was so very ill and could not settle with the natives about the land, and so earnestly solicited me to visit their station, I determined to embark in the Snapper and it was arranged for her to sail in the afternoon. The weather became very stormy before all the stores were on board, so that our sailing was put off until the following morning. I expected to return before all the stores were landed from the Brampton so as to complete my other business before she was ready for sea.

Thursday, August 14th.--At daylight this morning I embarked on board the Snapper, a very small vessel carrying about thirty tons. The wind was very fresh and against us. When we got out to sea the cutter jumped about much. We had to work up against the wind. The distance between the two harbours is between forty and fifty miles. Late in the evening we arrived opposite the mouth of the harbour of Wangarooa, but could not get in. We therefore lay off until daylight. The wind was against us getting in. We got the boat ahead, and several canoes came out and towed us into the harbour. About twelve we came to anchor. Shortly afterwards, George, the chief, and several more with him, came on board. I requested George to take charge of the vessel until I and the master returned from visiting Mr. Leigh, who resided about eight miles higher up the river (the Kaeo). The Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Turner also accompanied us to the missionary settlement, where we found Mr. Leigh very ill attended by Mrs. Leigh. The master returned in the evening to the vessel, but I remained all night with Mr. Leigh. Many whom I had seen before came to visit me, and rejoiced that I had come again to see them.

As soon as I saw the state Mr. Leigh was in, I recommended him to return with me to Port Jackson. He wanted more care, more comforts, and medical advice. These were not to be procured in Wangarooa. I felt much for Mrs. Turner, a young woman, who would now be left without any female companion but a young girl she had taken from Port Jackson. Mrs. Turner had one young child at the breast. It was the opinion of Mr. Leigh's colleagues, as well as my own, that his weak state of health required his speedy removal. The Revs. White and Turner are both young men. They have a very trying situation, as they must want experience. I hope they will do well and conduct themselves with patience and perseverance. Young men are apt to be too soon angry, and if they fall into this error they will often be very uneasy. They will have much to bear with from the heathens around them until they become better acquainted with their customs and manners.

Saturday, August 16th.--Early this morning Messrs. White and Turner went down to the Snapper after the stores and baggage. I remained with Mr. Leigh, as George had not returned. We took a walk to view the land they wished to purchase, in order that an arrangement might be made for it as soon as George arrived. While we were

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in the field we heard down the river a regular discharge of muskets, which was kept up for some time. I was very much alarmed at their report, fearing that some of the sailors had insulted some of the natives and that a serious quarrel had been the consequences. I was very anxious to go down to the vessel as soon as possible to learn the cause of the guns being fired, and immediately returned and went down to the river side in order to get a canoe. The tide was down, and I could not go until the return of the tide. George's brother, Tippoohee (Te Puhi), saw I was alarmed and wished to know the cause. I told him that several muskets had been fired down the harbour and that I was afraid some difference had taken place between the natives and the Europeans. He told me I need not be under any apprehensions, for, if any injury was done to the Europeans, Shunghee would kill a number of them. While we were standing upon the banks of the river, some natives arrived and informed us that a party had returned from the war and that the guns we had heard had been fired on the occasion, which removed all our fears.

In about an hour afterwards Messrs. White and Turner returned from the vessel and told me the master wished me to go down, that he was very uneasy in consequence of such numbers of natives being assembled about the Snapper. I determined to comply with his request in order to prevent any difference. Before I set off George returned. We examined the land, fixed the boundaries, and made an agreement with him for it which he signed in his way; he received payment and the business was finally settled.

I told George I was going down to the cutter. He came to the boat with me in order to accompany me. When we got to the wharf we found Mr. Turner had very imprudently left Mr. Hobbs' tool-chest in the boat, without any person to take care of it. It had been broken open and several things carried off. George threw off all his mats, apparently in a dreadful rage, and said he would put the thief to instant death. A number of his people were about him; he demanded to know who had committed the theft, and was told that one of his brother's slaves had done it and had run off with the property. He took a spear and ran up the bank of the river; in about ten minutes he returned with some of the articles and said he had speared the thief, but I do not believe he did. As we went down in the boat he expressed his indignation against a thief, and how determined he was to punish all thieves with death. I believe this was all a mere pretence. We talked over the business of the Boyd. He told me how he had been despised and insulted for cutting off the Boyd by the different tribes, and what trouble it had given him, as they would not be reconciled to him on that account. He said he should wish to visit Port Jackson again but he was afraid that he would be hung there if he went. He thought he might now venture as he had got some Europeans at his settlement; they would be a security for him and, if he should be hung, his people would hang the Europeans. He asked me if I would take care of him if he should venture. I told him I would, and that the reason why the Governor at Port Jackson would not hang him now was because the captain of the Boyd flogged him first. George replied that he should not do anything of the kind again, as he knew better now. At the same time he would

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not venture yet to Port Jackson, but his brother's daughter should go along with Mrs. Leigh, and, if she was not hung, he would afterwards go himself.

We had a very dark and stormy passage to the vessel with very heavy rain. When I got on board I found all quiet; the natives had behaved well. I lay down in my clothes, for the night was very cold and very wet.

Sunday, August 17th.--Last night was very dreadful for wind and rain, which still continued. After breakfast I left the vessel to go up to the missionary station, as we had agreed to administer the Lord's Supper before the Rev. S. Leigh and I left them. It rained very heavy, so that I arrived very wet. After I had changed my clothes we had Divine service, the sacrament being administered and Mrs. Shepherd churched, having being confined about three weeks. Though God is in every place, yet "He loves the gates of Zion more than all the dwellings of Jacob." Nothing tends more to maintain the life of God in the soul of men than to meet in the assembly of His saints in His public House of Prayer.

Monday, August 18th.--This morning the Rev. S. Leigh and Mr. Shepherd prepared to send off their baggage to the cutter. It had been apprehended that the natives would not allow them to take away their property if they allowed themselves to go away. The missionaries at Rangheehoo mentioned this to me before I came to Wangarooa. However, this difficulty was soon removed. The natives made no objections, and the whole of their effects were quietly sent on board without the smallest loss.

It was agreed now that George's niece should go along with Mrs. Leigh. Her father was very anxious to know from me whether she would be hung or not. He said, "We are reconciled to you, but we cannot believe that you are reconciled to us, but will demand sacrifices for the people of the Boyd." It is a law amongst them to have life for life, and they do not believe that there is any other mode of appeasing the wrath of the deity but by human sacrifices. It will be impossible to remove these people's fears until they have some proof that we will not avenge the loss of the people of the Boyd. Their religion would not allow them to pass over such an act unpunished, and they cannot believe that our religion will allow us.

Tuesday, August 19th.--It was intended that the cutter should sail this morning for the Bay of Islands. We rose about three o'clock in order to prepare, and, as soon as the remainder of the baggage was embarked in the boat and canoe, we left the missionary settlement. The chief's daughter accompanied us, after taking an affectionate leave of her friends who all wept much. Her father was very anxious about her, and accompanied us to the vessel. He repeatedly asked me if his daughter would be hung when she arrived in New South Wales. I assured him to the contrary. He requested, if she should, that I would send her body home that he might see her bones.

When we arrived at the cutter we found George on board, and the vessel crowded with natives on deck and on every side with canoes. We immediately got under way. George gave me a hog, and his wife

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a mat, at parting. He wept much when he took leave of the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Leigh. I requested him to be kind to the missionaries, which he promised to do.

Many of the chiefs belonging to another tribe who reside in and near the entrance of the harbour had just returned from an expedition to the southward. I had not seen them since my arrival until now. They expressed much satisfaction at my coming to visit them again, and wished much to have a missionary to reside with them. I made them a few presents of such things as I had, and at ten o'clock we cleared the Heads of Wangarooa with a strong, fair wind, and about seven o'clock the same evening anchored in Kororareka Bay, when I went on board the Brampton for the night. There were some chiefs on board. They spoke to me respecting the Rev. T. Kendall's conduct and we had a long conversation on the subject. I explained to them the reason why Mr. Kendall was no longer considered as a missionary: that he had taken the daughter of a New Zealand chief to live with him as his wife, which was contrary to our customs and laws; and that good men in England had only one wife, and that, by so doing, he had offended his friends. They admitted that he had done wrong, but contended that, as he was not living with the young woman now, his misconduct should be forgotten.

Wednesday, August 20th.--I have been fully engaged this day in the different concerns of the mission. Messrs. Butler, Hall, and Kendall were all on board. I had much conversation with the Rev. T. Kendall upon the concerns of the mission and his own unhappy situation. I am inclined to think that he will consent in time to leave New Zealand. His mind has been greatly polluted by studying the abominations of the heathens, and his ideas are very heathenish. No change will ever be produced in his sentiments and feelings while he remains here. He never will recover from his fall, as he is now as a man without strength and in the most awful state as it respects his soul. "Strangers have devoured his strength, and he knoweth it not." (Hosea vii, 9.)

Thursday, August 21st.--I remained on board in consequence of the stormy weather. I was informed that when Mr. Cowell left Rangheehoo the natives would pull down the house he lived in, where Mr. Kendall formerly resided. I knew that some of the natives at that settlement were very angry on account of Mr. Kendall's dismissal, yet I could not believe that they would proceed to do such an act of violence. I spoke to two of the chiefs, who happened to be on board, on the subject, and told them what I had heard They replied that it was a mere wicked report, that I might be assured that nothing of that kind would happen. I spent much of the day in conversation with the natives respecting their wars, their religion, and their country, which was very interesting. Some of the native chiefs had travelled much into the interior, and described many places where the land was level for several days' journey and the soil good. They described high lands covered with snow, and internal lakes, and hot springs situated to the southward, and a great population. All their fine mats and carvings are made at the southward, which as yet remains unknown to the Europeans.

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Friday, August 22nd.--This morning I went on shore to see the Rev. Henry Williams. I found all things going on well; the natives had been very attentive and had rendered every assistance in their power. The public store was nearly completed, and all the stores were safely lodged in it without the loss of a nail. Three temporary buildings will soon be completed--the store, the houses for Messrs. Williams and Fairburn, the carpenter. I remained with Mr. Williams a good part of the day, and before I returned on board we agreed to visit the upper part of the Cowa Cowa River the following morning.

The situation Mr. Williams occupies is a very important one, as he may have in a short time a very large school of young children. The inhabitants generally are orderly and well behaved. Natives from very remote parts are in the constant habit of visiting this station either as prisoners of war or to see their friends.

Saturday, August 23rd.--Early this morning I set off to the upper part of the River Cowa Cowa, accompanied by the master of the Brampton. On our way I visited several natives on the banks. Very considerable cultivation was going on upon the banks of the river, where no culture had been attempted before when I visited this district. The Rev. Henry Williams had agreed to go with me, but he was detained at his new station for some time, and about two o'clock p.m. he came up to us. I returned with him a little before dark on board the Brampton with an intention to go on shore with him for the night, in order that we might set off early the next morning for Kiddee Kiddee; but I found myself so unwell from fatigue and want of rest that I declined going with Mr. Williams and he returned on shore alone.

After Mr. Williams was gone several chiefs came on board--one, named Toua (Taua), the son of the late Tippahee, a very fine young man who had resided with me at Parramatta more than twelve months, addressed me and said that Mr. Kendall had informed him that day that he was going to leave New Zealand, and they wished to know if Mr. Kendall had been dismissed as a missionary for selling muskets and gunpowder to the New Zealanders. To this I replied that Mr. Kendall was directed by the gentlemen in England who had sent him out as a missionary not to sell muskets and powder; that it was not the custom in England for clergymen to sell muskets and powder and that no missionary could be allowed to sell them in New Zealand. As several of the chiefs who were present had been at Port Jackson, I observed that they knew that the clergymen there did not sell muskets and powder. They knew that I had not one musket in my house and that they had never seen any when they were with me. They replied they knew what I said was true. I further added we did not interfere with the government of New Zealand. They did what they pleased, and the missionaries ought to be allowed to do what they pleased. Toua said that was but just, and observed that they were at present in the same state as the Otaheitans were some time back. The Otaheitans wanted only muskets and powder and would have nothing else, and now, as they knew better, they wanted none. The New Zealanders would care nothing about muskets when they knew better, which they would in time, but time must be allowed them to learn better. He had gone to war some time ago but he would never go again. All the chiefs acquiesced in the observations Toua made.

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I was happy to find that their minds were so enlarged, and that they had begun to take such proper views of the subject. I said that Toua's remarks upon the conduct of the Otaheitans were very just, and told them that the Queen Charlotte brig, which had sailed from the bay the preceding day, belonged to the young King Pomare; that the Otaheitans had sent oil and various other articles to Port Jackson for which they had received in return tea, sugar, flour, and such clothing as they wanted; and that the New Zealanders might in time have a ship of their own to procure sperm oil, spars, etc., which they could sell at Port Jackson, and that many of them were able to kill the whales, having been employed on board the whalers. When they got a vessel of their own they would soon be equal to the Otaheitans and give over their cruel wars.

They expressed much pleasure at the idea of having a vessel of their own to procure what they wanted.

After we had closed our conversation upon these subjects I called their attention to Mr. Kendall's conduct in another respect. I told them that the gentlemen who had sent Mr. Kendall to New Zealand were not only angry with him for selling muskets and powder, but for having two wives; that in England a man was only allowed to have one wife; that King George could only have one wife; that the Governor at Port Jackson had only one; that Mr. Kendall had violated our laws and our religion, and for being guilty of so great an offence he had been dismissed from the service of the Society. He was at liberty to act now as he thought proper, but it would be better for him to leave New Zealand. Touhee (Tohi), a chief, was present, for whom the young woman had been tabooed or set apart that Mr. Kendall had taken to live with him, and he said Mr. Kendall ought to leave New Zealand. I told them he should go along with me in the Brampton. The chiefs were satisfied that Mr. Kendall had violated our laws and customs and had brought all his distress upon himself. Though Mr. Kendall had not informed me yet of his intention to leave New Zealand, I was happy to find that the chiefs were willing that he should return to Port Jackson, with the exception of one family--the father and friends of the young woman with whom he had cohabited. They were not yet reconciled and had taken care to keep very much out of my way.

Sunday, August 24th.--Early this morning I left the Brampton in order to accompany the Rev. Henry Williams to Kiddee Kiddee, sixteen miles distant. We purposed to be up to morning service, but did not arrive in time. In the evening we attended the catechizing of the natives. They sang several hymns in their own language and repeated some prayers. I was much gratified with the progress they had made since my last visit and the prospect thus afforded of their future welfare. There can be no doubt of the success of the mission if those employed in it will only do their duty. The children are as fine subjects to work upon as any in the known world.

After we had heard the natives perform their service I expounded a portion of the Scriptures, and the evening was concluded with our united worship of that God Who has made of one blood all nations that dwell upon the face of the earth. The voice of Joy and Gladness shall yet be heard in the barren deserts of New Zealand. The Divine

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promises must be fulfilled, which assure us that, in that great multitude which no man can number, there shall be some of every nation, kindred, tongue, and people.

Monday, August 25th.--I had summoned a full committee to meet at Kiddee Kiddee to-day, and, early this morning, prepared the different subjects which I wished to bring under consideration relative to the expenditure of the public stores, the public buildings, schools, etc. The committee met at the appointed time, and we did not close our deliberations till after twelve o'clock in the evening. A mass of evils required close investigation, and many of the subjects were very painful to consider. I trust the regulations and resolutions which I proposed, and which were adopted will restrain many evils, if not cure them. 7 When men have got a great way out of the right path, they do not like to return again to the place from whence they erred. This is the situation with some in this mission. It is awful to think how they have fallen and how much advantage Satan has gained over them. I much fear some will never benefit the Mission; their minds and habits are not calculated for the work they have engaged in. There is no consideration can induce a man to do habitually what he has a habitual aversion to do. Missionary work is very hard work unless the heart is fully engaged in it. A sin will always be in that man's way who cannot bend his mind to the instruction of the natives. The sooner such a one leaves the work the better it will be for himself and the mission.

Tuesday, August 26th.--This morning we met again for further deliberation and continued until after midday when most of the subjects under consideration were finally closed, so that I enjoyed a little quiet in the evening. I had been very much harrassed since I arrived. I was apprehensive the Brampton would be ready for sea before I had completed the object of my visit to New Zealand; and the captain informed me he would sail immediately the ship was ready.

Wednesday, August 27th.--I entered this morning into the consideration of the salaries allowed the Rev. John Butler and his son. Mr. Butler wished me to confirm the bills he had drawn upon England, and to allow him the same salary for himself and son for the last year which he had drawn for the former year. At this rate their salaries for two years from October 1st, 1821, to October 1st, 1823, would have amounted to £600 sterling. This I objected to. I had considerable difficulty with his account and never could close it to my own satisfaction.

About one o'clock I left Kiddee Kiddee to fix upon a new station for Mr. Shepherd, on my way down the River Wypoppa (Waipapa) which falls into the Kiddee Kiddee, to see if I could find a fall of water convenient for a water-mill at some future period. I met with a very suitable situation for the purpose, very central to all the missionary stations. A boat may go up at all times to the very foot of the fall where the mill may be erected. There is a natural dam of rock across the river, over which the river falls between ten and twelve feet above the level of the water below. I then proceeded to Rangheehoo and arrived in the evening.

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I was now determined to see the chief with whose daughter Mr. Kendall had cohabited. I had sent to her brother before, and he had sent me word that he was ashamed to see me. The chief informed Mr. Hall that he also was ashamed to see me. None of the family would come near me. I went into the village and called upon the old chief. He was at home and his sons, daughters, and wife with him. They seemed much embarrassed at first. At length the young woman's sister-in-law said she understood that I would not allow Mr. Kendall to have any more sugar, tea, axes, hoes, spades, etc., or any provisions. The conversation relative to the young woman and Mr. Kendall became general. The young woman was sitting by me. They admitted Mr. Kendall had lived with her as his wife, but said that he was not living with her now, and, as he had left the young woman, his conduct should not be noticed now. They also said the other missionaries did not like Mr. Kendall, and that they were as bad as he was. This I denied, and mentioned the names of five missionaries and asked them if they were bad. They said no; but they mentioned others. I told them what our laws were with respect to marriage and that Mr. Kendall had broken those laws, and on that account his friends in England were angry with him. One of the young woman's sisters, who is married, admitted that it was best for one man and one woman to live together as man and wife, but she was of opinion that Mr. Kendall should not be punished any more, as he was not now living with her sister. She said that when Shunghee returned from the war he would be very angry if Mr. Kendall was gone away, and that he would not allow the missionaries to live at Kiddee Kiddee. I replied that if Shunghee did not wish the missionaries to live at his place I would send a ship and take them to Port Jackson; and that the missionaries did not come to New Zealand for anything that they had to give them, for they had plenty of provisions and clothes in their own country. I appealed to her husband and brother, who both had lived with me, if we had not plenty of everything in Port Jackson and did not want anything from them, which they admitted. I said that the missionaries came only for their good, and that, when they wished them to leave New Zealand, they should. I told her I did not believe that Shunghee would be angry when he returned, for he had no cause. This old chief and his family could not bear the idea of Mr. Kendall leaving the island, because he had been the chief support of the whole of them and they were sensible of the loss they would sustain when he went. Before I left them I promised the old chief and his sons a few presents, and we parted mutual friends.

Thursday, August 28th.--Early this morning I sent for Werreepork (Wharepoaka), one of Shunghee's principal officers in the late war between him and Enakkee (Hinaki), chief of the River Thames, in order that I might learn the origin and event of the war, when he gave me the following account:--Several years ago a vessel from Port Jackson took a young woman from Wangaree (Whangarei), the sister of a chief named Temmarangha (Te Morenga), and carried her along with them by force to the southward, where they sold her to another chief for some mats. The chief who purchased her took her for his wife but she did not like him, in consequence of which the chief put her to death. Some time

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afterwards the ship King George, belonging to Port Jackson, was at or near the East Cape when a native came in her to the Bay of Islands, from whom Temmarangha heard the fate of his sister. Temmarangha, according to their laws, was bound to revenge her death. About three years ago, when the Coromandel lay in the Thames taking in timber, Temmarangha determined to send an expedition against the chief at the southward, and gave directions accordingly. His tribe assembled, and on their way they stopped at the River Thames in Enakkee's district. Enakkee and Temmarangha were both on board the Coromandel at the time Temmarangha's people, while they lay there, robbed Enakkee's potato grounds, and were seen by Enakkee's people to carry potatoes away. About a week afterwards Enakkee's slaves fell in with a near relation of Temmarangha's, a chief named Towakka (Towaka) and killed him. Temmarangha was very much enraged, but he was not able to avenge his death at that time. When the Coromandel sailed for Port Jackson, Enakkee went to the Colony in her, when Towhee (Taui), a chief belonging to Temmarangha's tribe, determined to revenge the death of Towakka. In about a month he set off from the Bay of Islands to the Thames. When Towhee arrived he made an attack upon Showpa's (Haupa) tribe, who were at amity with Enakkee's, and killed one chief and five common people, when he returned home. Shortly afterwards Showpa's son came to Wangaree to revenge upon Towhee's tribe the death of their chief whom Towhee had killed, and killed a chief belonging to Shunghee. Shunghee was not yet returned from England. While Enakkee was at Port Jackson, Shunghee arrived there. Enakkee informed him of the difference that had taken place between him and Temmarangha in consequence of Towakka being killed by Enakkee's slaves. Shunghee asked Enakkee what he intended to do-- whether, on his return, he would go to war or whether he would be quiet. Enakkee was inclined for war. Shunghee recommended him to give over fighting. Enakkee asked Shunghee to give him a billhook which he had brought from England, which he did. Shunghee gave him also a pair of pistols and a red shawl, and Enakkee agreed to give Shunghee, on their return to New Zealand, a war canoe. These mutual presents were tokens of mutual friendship.

When Shunghee arrived in New Zealand he made enquiry after different chiefs, his former friends, and was informed that the chief of Tootookakka (Tutukaka) had been killed by Showpa's people, who were in alliance with Enakkee. Shunghee was very much enraged when he heard that his friend had been killed, and determined to go down to the Thames to see Enakkee to demand satisfaction. 8 He assembled his forces, and took with him sixty war canoes, which formed a powerful armament. As soon as Shunghee and his army arrived within sight of Enakkee's settlement, he looked through his glass and saw Enakkee's colours flying. He called his officers and asked them if they saw Enakkee's colours. They answered that they did. Enakkee also blew his trumpet, and Shunghee observed him dressed in regimentals amongst his people. Shunghee then told his officers that Enakkee was determined to give them battle. Shunghee then put on his coat of mail, his sword,

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helmet, and red coat. Wycotto (Waikato) put on his regimentals also, and they walked in the front of the army. Shunghee blew his trumpet, and watched through his glass Enakkee's movements. Shunghee was a little afraid of Enakkee; his army was very strong. Shunghee then called his eldest son Charles, 9 a youth about sixteen or seventeen years of age, and desired him to take a long spear and tie a handkerchief at the end of it, take a chief and a few men with him, and bear it as a flag of truce towards Enakkee's army, as Shunghee wished to have a parley with Enakkee before any action took place.

When Enakkee observed Shunghee's son with the flag advancing towards his camp, he sent out his oldest son, Kupee, with a spear in one hand and a tomahawk in the other, to show that he would come to no parley. When Charles and the chief came within gunshot, Enakkee fired and shot the chief through the head, when he fell. Charles and his little party now turned and ran to their own camp. Shunghee was looking through his glass and saw the chief fall. Shunghee's son cried much, and the whole army sat down and mourned for the death of the chief until afternoon. In the evening Shunghee walked about to see if he could meet with Enakkee, but could not fall in with him. Both armies continued in their stations for three days. On the morning of the fourth day, with two or three chiefs, Shunghee advanced towards Enakkee's army in the sight of both armies. Enakkee came forward to meet him. Shunghee had his coat of mail on, and his sword, but no gun, his helmet also and regimental coat. Shunghee put both his arms under his coat of mail to show Ennakkee that he came peaceably, and that he wished to come to some terms of reconciliation with him. Enakkee was dressed in English regimentals. When Shunghee advanced he took off his helmet, made a bow, and saluted Enakkee. Enakkee (turned on one side and spurned his compliment. Shunghee said he did not wish to fight; Enakkee said he was determined to fight. Shung-hee said, "I have seen King George, as you may see by my war mat, or coat of mail, my sword, and helmet." Enakkee replied, "I have seen General Macquarie." Shunghee said he was very strong. Enakkee replied he was not afraid to meet him, for he was strong too. Shunghee then proposed to deliver up his eldest son as a hostage to Enakkee if Enakkee would deliver up his son to him, and that this should be the condition of their reconciliation, but Enakkee would hearken to no terms of accommodation. Shunghee then took off his helmet and said to Enakkee, "Do you see my face?" Enakkee answered, "Yes." Shunghee replied, "You shall see my face no more until we meet in battle." He then bowed and returned to his own army and told them what had passed. He desired his men to get their dinners, and to prepare for battle as soon as they could, for he was determined to fight that day. The men threw off their common mats, put on their war mats, and prepared for action.

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When they were ready Shunghee marched before them. When they came near Enakkee's army, Shunghee wished to speak to Enakkee again, who appeared like a madman. His officers advised him against it lest Enakkee should shoot him. However, he advanced and fired his musket into the air. Enakkee fired, and hit Shunghee on the side; though some of the links were broken, the ball was turned off by Shunghee's coat of mail, when one of Enakkee's people rushed forward and struck Shunghee behind the head with one of their marees (meres), or stone weapons of war, and knocked Shunghee down. Werreepork was near Shunghee. He called aloud for him to succour him, when the man who knocked Shunghee down was instantly killed by a shot from Shunghee when on the ground. Enakkee also fired a pistol at Shunghee, one of them which Shunghee had given him at Port Jackson, but without effect. Enakkee then rushed forward with his bayonet fixed to stab Shunghee while on the ground, when two of Shunghee's officers--Riva (Riwa) and Eve (Iwi)--that instant fired and shot Enakkee, when he fell. Werreepork (Wharepoaka) was speared at the same time through the arm by one of Enakkee's men.

Shunghee, as soon as he recovered from the blow he had received, ordered the village to be immediately set on fire, which was crowded with Enakkee's people. 10 The battle then became general. In the midst of the contest Werreepork was anxious to save as many of the children of the chiefs as he possibly could, and carried twenty-five off the field to a place of safety, though he himself was speared. Ten of these he restored to their friends before he left the Thames, and fifteen he brought with him to the Bay of Islands as prisoners of war, but has since returned them all.

As soon as the battle became general, Shunghee was sure of victory. He ordered all Enakkee's auxiliaries to lay down their arms and fly into the woods, as he only wished to destroy the strength of Enakkee's tribe. Many saved themselves by flight. Such children of the common people whose mothers were killed in the action were put to death, and such children whose mothers were alive to take care of them were saved alive, and both made prisoners of war. Werreepork appears to have acted a very kind and humane part both in the time of action and since. He has given up his prisoners of war, and returned them to their friends. Many of them have gone home since I arrived. He lived with me some time at Parramatta; he is a very brave, active, and well-disposed young man.

From the whole of the account given me by Werreepork, Shunghee appears, either from fear or inclination, to have had no wish for war, but to have come to some friendly terms with Enakkee. It was also kind in Shunghee to spare Enakkee's friends and to save the lives of the children of the chiefs. I have seen at the Bay of Islands several chiefs from the River Thames who had not returned since the war, who

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informed me that Shunghee behaved well when he was there. On Shunghee's return from the war he confirmed to me all that Werreepork had stated. 11

I had no sooner taken down the above account from Werreepork in Mr. Hall's house, than I observed through the window the Brampton under way about six miles off. The captain had been informed by the natives that there were some fine spars about thirty miles to the southward at a place called Tootookakka (Tutukaka). He therefore had determined to go there and take some in, if there was a harbour for the ship to lie safe. When I was in New Zealand before I had observed the spars at a distance when at sea, but had not examined them on shore. I determined to go down in the vessel, and immediately got a boat and went on board. We had three chiefs with us who were interested in the timber.

An American vessel called the Cossack had been lately wrecked 12

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CHART OF THE BAY OF ISLANDS, NEW ZEALAND
FROM THE CHURCH MISSIONARY REGISTER, 1822

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in coming out of the Gambier (Hokianga) 13 River on the west side of New Zealand, commonly called by the natives Shokee Hangha. The loss of this vessel had been a subject of much conversation amongst the New Zealanders. The chiefs gave me the following reasons for the loss:--There are two rocks on the south side of the entrance of the harbour, which they consider sacred, being the residence of the god of the winds and waves. The sailors belonging to the Cossack paid no respect to these rocks, but struck them with hammers. The natives cautioned them against doing so and entreated them not to touch them, for, if they did, their god would be angry. The sailors paid no attention to what the natives said. When the Cossack got out of the mouth of the harbour upon the bar, the god of the rocks got under her bottom, and, in great anger, danced under her and threw her up and down like a ball. The master let go his anchors to hold her, but the angry god cut the anchors--not the cables--at the bottom of the sea, and threw the vessel up until he dashed her to pieces. The Cossack would have met with no accident if the sailors had not provoked the god of the winds and waves by striking the sacred rocks. This is universally believed by the New Zealanders. When I visited at the river, and when I came near these rocks, they begged I would not touch them lest I should die. Such is the present superstition of these people.

I had seen some sailors, who were on board the Cossack when she was lost, who gave me the following account of her wreck:--The wind had been blowing hard from the south-west, which had caused a very great surf upon the bar. They left the harbour with a light breeze. The master thought the wind was sufficient to carry the vessel through the surf, but when they got out upon the bar the wind failed them; the surf overpowered the vessel and she became a perfect wreck. No property was saved and no lives were lost. The natives were very kind to them when they got on shore.

Friday, August 29th.--This morning we were off the harbour of Tootookakka. The boat was hoisted out, and Captain Moore went to examine the entrance. He returned in about three hours, and reported that there were plenty of spars but not sufficient water for a large ship in the harbour, and that the entrance was very narrow. He now determined to return to the Bay of Islands, for which we immediately made sail with a fine breeze, and arrived at the mouth of the harbour at the close of the evening. The wind being now against us we lay off and on all night.

Saturday, August 30th.--This morning was very fine. We had made little progress during the night, and the wind still continued against us. About eleven o'clock a.m. we observed a boat making towards the ship. When she came alongside we found she was from

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Wangarooa with the Rev. Mr. White who was going to Kiddee Kiddee. I immediately left the Brampton with Mr. White. We called on our way at Rangheehoo; and then proceeded to Kiddee Kiddee, where we arrived in the evening. The Rev. S. Leigh and Mrs. Leigh had left the Brampton when she sailed to Tootookakka, as he was very weak and poorly, and had taken up their lodgings with the Rev. John Butler. We found all the other brethren well.

Sunday, August 31st.--This day the Rev. John Butler read prayers and I preached, when we administered the Holy Sacrament. There were present: the Revs. Leigh and White, Mrs. Leigh, Mrs. Butler, Mrs. Kemp, Mrs. Shepherd, Mrs. Puckey, and Messrs. Kemp, Shepherd, and Puckey. How thankful should Christians be for the Sabbaths and ordinances of religion! What comfort and support do they administer to the pious soul! Without the Divine ordinances, how feeble and how languid would the best of Christians be! We never can be sufficiently thankful for these privileges. The psalmist loved God's house--"the place where His honour dwelleth"--and so does every Christian. How much more delightful it is to meet in the great congregation in God's holy temple than in any of the dwellings of Jacob, in any private house whatever! There is something so solemn, so sacred, in God's house where His saints meet to pray and to praise him that the pious soul relishes religion better there than in any other place, because God hath put His name there and has promised to meet His people there at all times.

Monday, September 1st.--This morning I drew up some regulations for the future government of the Mission, and wrote a public letter to the missionaries relative to their past and future conduct; exhorting them to repent of what they had done amiss, and warning them of the consequences of sinning in time to come. When I reflect upon the dreadful evils that have crept in amongst the missionaries I am astonished that the mission has not been completely annihilated. That it should ever have existed in the midst of so much wickedness, so much contention, so much unfaithfulness in the servants of the Mission, affords a strong proof, in my judgment, that God will carry on the work and that the wickedness of man shall not prevent Him. Amongst those who have been employed in the Mission, and set apart for the work, some have been weak and led astray, some have been wicked and have fallen from their steadfastness and wounded the cause, others have been idle and unfaithful, others have been worldly minded and have lost sight of the interest of the Mission by paying too great attention to their own welfare. The Mission has not suffered only for the want of support from those whom the Christian world supported, but from powerful secular enemies and infidels who have striven to overthrow it altogether. But, blessed be God, it still maintains its ground. Some have been faithful like Caleb and Joshua, and these will take the land as certainly as ever Joshua and Caleb put the Israelites in full possession of the land of Canaan. Difficulties of every kind must be fairly met and opposed and the Christian world must be determined to plant the Gospel standard upon the strongholds and fortifications of the Prince of Darkness, and his kingdom will finally fall. Known unto God are all His works from the beginning, and He will accomplish His Divine

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purposes whatever instruments are employed in the work. He appointed Saul king over Israel as well as David, the man after His own heart, and accomplished His Divine will by them both.

About one o'clock I left Kiddee Kiddee in order to hold a committee at the station of the Rev. H. Williams in the Cowa Cowa, where I had summoned all the missionaries to attend. We sat upon public business until a late hour, and afterwards we all remained in his hut for the night.

Tuesday, September 2nd.--This morning we closed the business we entered upon last night. I now considered all the public concerns arranged as far as I could. After breakfast I went on board the Brampton and agreed with the master for the passage of the following persons to Port Jackson:--the Rev. Samuel and Mrs. Leigh, the Rev. Thomas Kendall and family, and Mr. Cowell and family--being fifteen persons in the whole. I afterwards called on Mr. Kendall to arrange with him for the delivering up of all the public stores in his possession, and purchased his sawed timber towards building the Rev. Mr. Williams' house, etc., and then crossed the harbour to inform Mr. Williams what I had done, in order that he might take immediate steps to remove the stores, timber, etc., to prevent any disputes with the natives afterwards when Mr. Kendall was gone. I then proceeded to Kiddee Kiddee, where I arrived after dark, extremely cold, having been several hours upon the water.

Wednesday, September 3rd.--To-day I took my leave of Kiddee Kiddee with an intention to return no more this voyage. I went to visit Mr. Samuel Butler's station (Mangonui), about fourteen miles from Kiddee Kiddee. The Revs. John Butler and White accompanied me. We had a very rough passage; the wind was strong and the sea high, but we arrived safe in the afternoon. The natives had built a comfortable temporary house for Mr. Samuel Butler, and were all very busy in different kinds of labour. This is a very important station if attention is only paid to the native children. The inhabitants are numerous and well behaved. The head chief is one of the tallest and stoutest men I have seen in New Zealand, a relation of Shunghee's. I made the natives a few presents of such articles as I had, and in the evening returned to Rangheehoo with the Rev. Mr. White who was on his way to Wangarooa. We arrived in the cove just at dark, and took up our lodgings for the night with Mr. William Hall, at whose house we held a prayer meeting. I had some conversation with Messrs. Hall and King relative to the instruction of the children. They promised to begin immediately Mr. Cowell embarked.

Thursday, September 4th.--This morning I sent for the old chief Rakow (Rakau), the father of the young woman Mr. Kendall had cohabited with, in order to see if I could pacify him and his family to Mr. Kendall's departure. When he came he was greatly agitated. He laid hold of me with both his hands and squeezed me as if I had been in a vice, and said I would give Mr. Kendall no more hoes, axes, spades, etc., and remonstrated with me in strong terms against Mr. Kendall's departure. He represented the other missionaries as inimical to Mr. Kendall, and contended that Mr. Kendall ought not to leave New Zealand, but be supported. After the old man had given vent to his feelings he became a little more cool. I made him a present of a blanket and a

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few edge tools, which reconciled him a little. While we were talking several natives came in, and amongst the number Wycotto (Waikato) 14 whom I had not seen before. The whole of Rakow's family and friends were much ashamed to see me on account of Mr. Kendall's conduct. Wycotto said he was ashamed. They all manifested much propriety of feeling. I told them Mr. Kendall was the person who was to blame; that I had no cause to be angry with them; that Mr. Kendall had offended the gentlemen who had sent him out and supported him, by acting contrary to their instructions and our laws, and that they could not any longer be his friends. After much conversation upon these subjects, they all seemed more satisfied and easy. I asked Wycotto to accompany me on board the Brampton, and I would make him a few presents. He replied he was ashamed to ask me for anything, but he would go with me. As it was the last time I intended to be at Rangheehoo, I thought it prudent to invite Rakow's son, Werreepork, whom I have already mentioned, to go with me to Parramatta, as it would tend to quiet the old chief and his family.

When all these matters were arranged I took my leave of Messrs. Hall and King and their families and the natives of Rangheehoo. Wycotto accompanied me on board. I was very happy to learn that he had behaved well to the missionaries since his return from England. We had much conversation upon the state of New Zealand. He told me he had accompanied Shunghee once in his wars since his arrival from England against Enakkee, in the war in which Enakkee was killed, and that many fell on both sides; but he was determined never to go to war again. Shunghee pressed him to go with him in his present expedition, but he had refused. He said that he wished the English would come and take possession of the country, as he was sure there would be no end to their public calamities until there was a power sufficient to prevent those evils of war. I have heard many chiefs express the same wish. Wycotto attends now to the cultivation of his farm, and to his wife and children of whom he is very fond.

On our arrival on board the Brampton, I presented him with a spade and a few edge tools for which he was very thankful. I assured him that if he did not go to war he should have the present of a blanket every year, or some other article of value; that I should make enquiry after his conduct, and if I found that he attended to agriculture I would remember him. Wycotto returned on shore much gratified with our interview and much relieved in his mind. Since his return from Europe he has had time to reflect upon what he saw and heard, and he appears to me much improved and softened. I was much gratified with many of his observations. He said that he was very desirous that a missionary should be sent to the River Thames, and that if one was sent he would go and live there. I told him this could not be done at present, but at some future time it perhaps might.

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Friday, September 5th.--This morning a war canoe returned from the southward and came alongside the ship. I observed a dead man in the stern wrapped up in mats. She was full of people. Tootooroo(Te Toru), one of the chiefs of Wycaddee (Waikare), was in her. He seemed worn down with fatigue and privations. He had been with me formerly at Parramatta. He was much affected when he saw me, but did not come out of the canoe but sat in a mourning posture. What hardships do these poor heathen suffer under the dominion of the Prince of Darkness!

In the afternoon I went on shore to pay a visit to the Rev. Henry Williams and to purchase a canoe to take with me to Port Jackson for the accommodation of the natives who were going along with me. While we were walking on the beach another war canoe arrived, in which I understood there were two dead chiefs. When they came within a short distance of the land they all sat silent in the canoe crying, and the women on shore began to cry also and to make great lamentations. These poor creatures sorrow as those without hope. They have none of the consolations of religion to support their minds, no hope full of immortality. What infinite blessings will the Gospel impart unto them when once they receive it with joy! After I had purchased the canoe I went on board for the night.

Saturday, September 6th.--I remained the whole of the day on board preparing for sea, as the captain had determined to sail the next morning, and I was very busy in securing the different useful plants I had procured for New South Wales and settling my little accounts with the natives. The Rev. Mr. Williams and several of the brethren came to take their leave, and some of them remained till late in the evening. Werreepork thought it was not right to sail on our Sabbath day, and asked if I should not be angry. He was informed that I had no control over the master of the ship, and that he would do as he pleased. The New Zealanders in their way are very particular in observing all their religious ceremonies, as they believe their happiness and life itself depend upon their doing this.

I had now got all my business settled as well as I could, and, in some degree, to my satisfaction, considering the deranged state the affairs of the Mission had been in for so long a time. The Rev. T. Kendall and family, Mr. Cowell and family, were all on board without any unpleasant differences with the natives. I now felt much pleasure in the prospect of a speedy return to my family and people, and, being very weary with various toils and anxieties both of body and mind, I longed for a little rest, and retired to my cabin with much thankfulness and comfort. I had cause to be thankful for continued good health, during the period I had been in New Zealand, as I had not lost one day. I was not well when I left New South Wales, but I found myself better and able to undergo much fatigue. I also was happy to see that there was every prospect of success in the Mission, and felt confident that the Rev. H. Williams, either by precept or example, or by both, would be able to rectify many evils when I was gone. The removal of the Rev. T. Kendall and Mr. Cowell will also prove a great benefit to the Mission, and I doubt not but God will prosper the work yet and raise up a seed in this benighted land to serve Him. "For many shall come from the south as well as the north, and shall sit down with Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob in the Kingdom of God."

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Sunday, September 7th.--This morning the captain gave orders to weigh the anchors and proceed to sea. 15 I went into the Rev. S. Leigh's cabin and read the first chapter of Romans, making a few remarks upon it, and observed that it was my intention to read with him the whole epistle on our passage to Port Jackson. We had a comfortable little meeting while the sailors were preparing for sea. The weather was very threatening and stormy. The wind blew very strong from the east directly into the mouth of the harbour We lay in Kororareka Bay on the south side of the harbour, and had to sail along a lee, rocky shore in working out, with the wind dead on the land. The ship being light and high out of the water, she would not answer her helm, and twice missed stays. The lead was kept continually sounding, and we soon found ourselves in little more than three fathoms water with a rocky bottom, and a shoal of rocks on our lee. It was then near high water. When the captain found the situation we were in he immediately ordered to let go the anchor, which was done. When the tide began to turn, the ship began to strike. The gale increased and the sea with it. I was convinced the ship would be wrecked--there appeared to me no possible way to prevent it. The Rev. Samuel Leigh was very ill, and unable to bear the noise and anxiety occasioned by such an awful occurrence, and Mrs. Leigh was also much alarmed. I requested the captain to lend me the boat to take Mr. and Mrs. Leigh to the nearest island, which he kindly granted. The wind was high and the sea very rough but I did not apprehend much danger in going on shore, as the island 16 was only about two miles distant and the nearer we approached it the smoother the water would be, as we should be more sheltered from the wind and sea.

We arrived safe, though very wet with the rain and the sea washing over the sides of the boat. We found a few poor natives on the point of the island called Mootooroa (Moturoa) where we landed. It rained very heavy. The natives expressed much concern for us. They made a fire and prepared the best hut they had, which was made of bulrushes, for our reception. I requested them to send a canoe to Rangheehoo to inform Mr. William Hall of the loss of the ship and to bring his boat to assist to land the people, and at the same time desired that they would tell the natives to bring a large war canoe. The natives for some time objected to go, on account of the storm and the high sea, alleging that their canoe would be dashed to pieces by the waves. At length I prevailed upon them. They had between five and six miles to go through a very rough sea. About three o'clock p.m. Messrs. Hall, King, and Hansen arrived in Mr. Hall's boat, and a large war canoe with natives. They immediately proceeded to the ship, and we had

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the satisfaction to see them arrive safe and waited until dark with the greatest anxiety for their return, but neither of them came. The rain fell in torrents and the gale had increased. We lay down in our little hut full of fear and alarm for the safety of all on board. The night appeared very long, dark, and dreary, as we could not rest, and we most anxiously wished for the morning light in hopes of receiving some account from the vessel.

Monday, September 8th.--When the day returned we had the happiness to see the vessel still upright but driven nearer on shore. No boat came from her, or canoe, and the gale still continued. About midday we saw the foremast go overboard. The natives on the island shrieked aloud when the mast fell. I concluded they had cut away the mast to relieve the vessel. We spent the whole of this day in great suspense, as we could not conjecture why all the passengers should remain on board in the state the ship was in. At dark in the evening Mr. William Hall returned, and informed us that the bottom of the vessel was beat out, that both her chain and best bower cable were broken, and that she beat with such violence upon the rocks when the tide was in that it was impossible to stand upon her decks. At the same time he was not apprehensive that the people on board were in any danger of losing their lives, as he did not think that the ship would go to pieces as she stood firm upon the rocks when the tide was out. I wished to know why the women and children remained on board. He said it had not been determined what they would do or where land as yet, and they wished to wait until the gale abated. We were much relieved by the information Mr. Hall gave us. As it was now dark, the sea rough, and the wind high, we could not leave the island, and therefore took up our lodgings in our little hut. The natives kindly gave us a few potatoes and a little fish--the best they had to bestow.

My pleasing prospect of returning to Port Jackson was now at an end, for some time at least. A great change had been made in my views and feelings from what they were on Sunday morning. The scene was then apparently bright and clear, but now a dark cloud rested upon all around me. I was exceedingly concerned for the loss of so fine a ship on many accounts, as individuals who are interested in her must suffer as well as the passengers on board, and perhaps more then they. An hour before this melancholy accident happened the object of my visit to New Zealand appeared to be accomplished. All the Europeans, sixteen in number, with twelve natives, were embarked. We had parted with the principal chiefs in every part of the Bay of Islands with mutual satisfaction, and with every prospect of success to the Mission. But now an unexpected storm seemed to have rendered abortive all that had been done. I spent the night in ruminating upon the difficulties with which I was surrounded, while the stormy wind and rain still continued, and the raging sea to dash against the shores.

Tuesday, September 9th.--At the return of day we observed the ship still upright, but (she) appeared to be driven higher upon the reef. I now determined to return to Kiddee Kiddee in Mr. Hall's boat, with Mr. and Mrs. Leigh. We had suffered two dreary and stormy days and nights under the most painful anxiety for the safety of those in the ship. We now left the island as soon as we could for the missionary

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settlement, where we arrived about nine o'clock. Our friends had not heard of the loss of the ship until our arrival, as there had been no communication between the different settlements in consequence of the severe weather. We were very kindly received by the brethren. I took up my lodgings with Mr. Kemp, and Mr. and Mrs. Leigh with the Rev. Mr. Butler. I informed the brethren in what situation we had left the ship, and requested that every assistance might be given to land the passengers and baggage. The wreck was about twelve or fourteen miles from the settlement. Four boats were immediately sent off. Mr. Hall's boat took the women and children the same evening to Rangheehoo, and two of the boats returned with part of our baggage, and one went to the station of the Rev. Mr. Williams. All the brethren rendered every aid in their power to provide for our comfort and to secure our baggage, for which we are their debtors.

When the boats returned they brought the welcome news that all were well on board. It was a great mercy that the Rev. Mr. Leigh appeared not to have suffered much injury from the wet and cold while we were confined in the island though in so weak a state, and Mrs. Leigh bore our dangers and privations with much patience and resignation. Divine wisdom no doubt has some good ends to answer in all that has befallen us. The word of God expressly says, "All things shall work together for good to them that love God," and the Scriptures cannot be broken. We cannot see through this dark and mysterious dispensation at this present time. The why and the wherefore we must leave to Him Who ordereth all things according to the council of His own will. As the gale continued with increasing violence, if we had got out to sea we might have been cast on shore under more dangerous and distressing circumstances. Our shipwreck has been a most merciful one, as no lives have been lost nor anything but the ship. The natives have also behaved exceedingly well as yet and respected our property. We should not have been so kindly treated in this respect if we had been wrecked on our native shores.

Wednesday, September 10th.--This morning Mr. Kemp informed me that the captain purposed to land from the wreck what provisions and stores he could on the island of Mootooroa, and wished me to go down as he was apprehensive there might be some disputes with the natives, as a report had been circulated that a large party of natives were coming from Shokee Hangha to plunder the wreck. I did not believe that report, as the people on the banks of that river and in the different settlements are all quiet and well-disposed, as a body. The day continued stormy and, not being very well for want of rest, I remained at the missionary settlement with a determination to go down on Thursday morning, agreeable to the request of the captain, as I did not apprehend any danger from the natives, several well-disposed chiefs being on board.

Thursday, September nth.--About four o'clock the Rev. Thomas Kendall's son arrived at Kiddee Kiddee with a letter from his father requesting assistance to land his baggage and other property. Mr. Kendall considered the situation of the vessel very precarious, a very heavy ground swell having set in. I sent back his son immediately with a letter to his father authorizing him to hire some canoes to land

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A PAGE FROM MARSDEN'S JOURNAL - TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH, 1823

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his property and I would pay the expense of them. Afterwards I went to the island of Mootooroa, taking the Rev. John Butler with me. When we arrived I found that a considerable quantity of stores and provisions had been landed from the wreck. I remained on the island conversing with the natives and requesting them to protect the property and people. They assured me they would watch night and day so that I might be assured nothing would be lost. I requested the Rev. John Butler to proceed on to the wreck, and to render what assistance he could to Mr. Kendall with the boat. In a few hours Mr. Butler returned and informed me that part of Mr. Kendall's baggage was gone on shore, and that Mr. Kendall was well satisfied with, and thankful for, the arrangements I had made to save his effects from the wreck. Mr. Butler informed me also that there had been some altercation amongst the natives themselves at the wreck, but that King George and the chiefs on board had settled the difference and all was perfectly quiet. 17 I was very happy to receive this account and to see that a savage nation--so poor and so distressed as they are, many of them not worth a nail--should abstain from plunder under such strong temptation to gratify the natural avarice of the human mind in the midst of the wreck of so much property. I apprehend no stronger proof need be adduced in testimony of the advances these poor heathen have made in civilization than the respect they have paid to the Europeans and their property in such a time of general distress. We were all, both on shore and on the vessel, as well as our property, completely in their power. They could take our lives any moment, and it cannot be doubted but they would have done so if the missionaries had not been settled amongst them and gained their confidence and good-will.

I would here observe that, for the last nine years--the period when the Mission was first entered upon to the present time--no European has received any injury from the natives throughout the whole extent

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of coast from the North Cape to the River Thames, though they have met with many provocations and injuries from masters and crews of vessels which have visited them. The Mission has been of infinite service in this respect. A vessel can now enter into the harbour in the Bay of Islands with as much safety as any ship can anchor in Port Jackson. The time, no doubt, will come when the inhabitants of New Zealand shall not only advance in civilization but in the knowledge and worship of the only true God, when the Christian world will have cause to rejoice and praise the God of the whole earth.

In the evening we left the island of Mootooroa and the natives preparing a new house for the master of the Brampton and his ship's company, and returned to Kiddee Kiddee.

Wednesday, September 17th.--I have spent the last few days at the missionary settlement; the weather has been very wet and stormy. I have suffered from cold and sore throat. I feel very anxious to return to New South Wales but at present have very little hope.

While ruminating upon these subjects the Sisters arrived from Port Jackson, and this morning I have received a letter from my colleague (the Rev. R. Hill) informing me that all my family were well on August 28th. This was very welcome news and revived my spirits. All the information I received from the Colony was very satisfactory. I should be very glad if the captain of the Sisters will be prevailed upon to take us to Port Jackson, but I fear he will not and our stay here may be some months. I am determined that the missionaries shall begin to erect a school at Kiddee Kiddee the next week. Should I be obliged to remain two months I hope to see it completed and the children admitted into it. The foundation must be laid in the education of the rising generation. If there were means equal to give the children generally instruction, ignorance and superstition would soon give way to knowledge and true religion. The children possess great minds, are well behaved and teachable, and would make great improvements.

Thursday, September 18th.--This morning Captain Moore informed me that he had quitted the wreck and had got his stores all landed on the island of Mootooroa; that the chiefs on board had behaved well; that on one occasion between 500 and 600 natives came round the ship in their canoes, and appeared as if they intended to be troublesome; that King George desired the captain to be still and not to interfere; that King George addressed the natives in a speech more than an hour long, pointed out to them the fatal consequences of committing any act of plunder or violence, reminding them of the Boyd and what followed the destruction of that vessel. King George took the captain's sword and told them that he would cut down the first man that attempted to come on board the vessel. By his firmness and prudence, order and quiet were restored, and everything which the master wished to take from the vessel he was at liberty to do so. Captain Moore told me if he had been wrecked on the English coast the English would have been a thousand times more troublesome than the New Zealanders were. The Christian world is not labouring in vain and spending their strength for nought, when they are labouring to aid this noble race of human beings to free themselves from want, ignorance, and superstition.

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Without assistance they never can free themselves; they never can rank with civilized nations nor enjoy the comforts of civil life, nor the blessings which Christianity imparts. But with the Divine blessing and Christian benevolence they will become a great people. Their means of living are wonderfully increased since I visited the island nine years ago. The introduction of tools of agriculture, such as axes, hoes, spades, has encouraged very extensive cultivation in every district, and it is extending more and more every day. A nation can do nothing without iron. They had none until the Missionary Society supplied them. To give a man a spade is not like giving him 100lb. of potatoes to supply his immediate wants, but it is furnishing him with the means of raising many hundreds. This is evident in every part of New Zealand.

Friday, September 19th.--This day Riva (Rewha), a chief next in command to Shunghee, returned from Wycotto (Waikato) and some other chiefs with him, where they had been as ambassadors to make peace with the tribes on that river. Wycotto is a very populous part of New Zealand. Several persons belonging to Wycotto returned with them. Shunghee was at Towrangha (Tauranga) and was not expected for some time. Riva is a married man with a family of five fine children. The last war expedition he was upon he brought home another wife, which very much distressed his first wife. She could not bear the idea of Riva's having two wives. During Riva's absence his second wife had a son; his first wife was pregnant at the same time and was shortly afterwards delivered of a son also. She was so much hurt at the second wife having a son that she murdered her own infant and, in a little time, the second wife died also. When he arrived this day and was informed of the above circumstances he was much distressed and wept greatly. Infant murder is not common in New Zealand, and particularly boys. They are very fond of their children, and take great care of them. Riva's wife murdered her child from mere vexation--to be revenged upon her husband for taking another wife. It is apprehended that Riva will offer a human sacrifice to relieve his mind.

Bushee (Te Puhi) went yesterday to the funeral of a near relation. On these occasions it is common for all the friends of the dead to cut themselves when they weep and mourn. Bushee abstained from this ceremony, and when he returned he said he would never practise it again, and that if his wife was to die he would not cut himself for her. He disapproved of this barbarous custom. Bushee's mind is much enlightened, and he laments much the state of his country. He expressed a wish that some soldiers might be sent to New Zealand to put a stop to their wars. The light of civilization is gradually making its way amongst the higher classes, and in time will produce a happy effect upon them.

Saturday, September 20th.--This morning I called upon Riva. He expressed his regret at the loss of the ship, and asked me if she was a king's vessel. I informed him she belonged to a private gentleman in England. He told me he had heard of my arrival on his way from Wycotto, but not of the wreck of the ship. Many chiefs had returned with him from Wycotto, and peace was now established at Wycotto, the River Thames, Towrangha, and Rotooru (Rotorua), a very populous district in the interior where Shunghee had been carrying on the war.

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In an action at Rotooru Shunghee had received a ball against his shoulder, another on his breast, and a ball lodged in his helmet and had broken it, but he had received no injury. As the whole of that part of the country was now subdued, he expected Shunghee would return as soon as the weather would permit. His fleet consisted of one hundred canoes. Riva's father told me that it was their intention to take possession of some parts of the conquered districts and settle in them, and, if they did, some of the missionaries must go with them. Divine Providence may by these public calamities be preparing the way for His Gospel.

I informed him that Mr. Kendall was going to Port Jackson, and asked him what Shunghee would say. Riva replied that Shunghee would cry much and be very angry. I told him that if Shunghee did not wish the missionaries to remain at his settlement, I would send a ship and take them away to Port Jackson. Riva said they must not leave the settlement. He said that when Shunghee and Mr. Kendall returned from England, Mr. Kendall wished to live at Kiddee Kiddee and for Mr. Butler to go away; that Shunghee and he had some warm altercations upon the subject, as he would not allow Mr. Butler to go away, and at length carried his point. It appeared clear that Mr. Kendall had arranged with Shunghee to live at Kiddee Kiddee, and that Shunghee's mind was very much prejudiced against Mr. Butler and that he was determined on his removal.

I stated to Riva that Mr. Kendall had offended his friends in England by taking two wives, and, on that account, they would send him no more supplies, and if I should not see Shunghee he would inform him. I think Shunghee when he returns will not be much offended,, though he will feel for Mr. Kendall's situation and serve him as far as he can. Mr. Kemp informs me Riva has just killed a young woman for a sacrifice for the death of his second wife. He had a short time before left me. His son came to call him away when we were conversing together--perhaps to perform the bloody ceremony. When will these cruel rites be abolished? Nothing but the Gospel of our blessed Redeemer can free their minds from tyranny and superstition. How awful is the state of the poor heathen who can thus in cool blood sacrifice their fellow creatures! This young woman was a prisoner of war taken in the last expedition against the River Thames.

Riva has just called upon me full dressed and presented me with two mats. He tells me he has killed a young woman, but has ordered her to be buried and not eaten. There are two charges alleged against the deceased. The one is that she had not paid proper attention to Riva's wife during her confinement, and the other that she had performed the funeral rites to her mistress and afterwards taken the provisions, which she ate with her own hands, before she was cleansed from her ceremonial uncleanness in consequence of having touched a dead body. This last is considered as a very great crime against their god. For these things it was necessary that she should be made a sacrifice as an atonement for the dead and as a safety to the living.

No art of persuasion, no rewards, no promises, can stop these bloody rites. The Gospel alone can supply a remedy for these dreadful effects of superstition. Satan has got fast hold of the consciences of these poor heathens and leads them captive at his will. He makes them believe

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that if a person serves himself with his own hands with any kind of provisions when labouring under any ceremonial uncleanness he commits the greatest sin and merits the wrath of the deity, and that to sacrifice the offender for so doing is an acceptable service and an indispensable one. Riva seemed easy in his mind when he had made this offering. I mentioned to him the former state of the Otaheitans and what they did now, and that I hoped New Zealand would do the same.

Sunday, September 21st.--This morning I enquired what was done with the body of the young woman that was sacrificed on the preceding day, and was informed that it had been dressed and eaten by the natives of Wycotto, though Riva had told me he had given directions that it should be buried. Previous to retiring to rest last evening, I heard the natives singing and dancing near the spot where the young woman was killed. I have no doubt but that they were then preparing to eat the sacrifice. However horrid and revolting this custom is to the Christian's mind--and nothing can be more so--yet the New Zealander feels himself as much bound by his superstition to kill and eat human sacrifices as the Christian does to offer up his sacrifices of prayer and praises to the true God. These bloody rites will never be laid aside by the natives until the fetters of their superstition are broken by the sword of the Spirit. Nothing short of the power of the Divine word can effectually remedy these dreadful customs.

While we sang the 72nd Psalm last evening I could not but contrast the situation of the New Zealanders with our own. We are made of the same blood and have one common Father, and yet what an infinite distance there is between the believing soul and the poor ignorant heathens, both as it respects this world and that which is to come. The joys of the one are pure, heavenly, and divine, and of the other barbarous, sensual, and devilish. The one has a hope full of immortality, the other is without hope and without God.

Monday, September 22nd.--As there had been no building erected for a public school at Kiddee Kiddee, I informed the Rev. John Butler and Mr. Kemp that I was resolved to have one built immediately; that they were now all comfortably provided with houses and outhouses and there was no necessity for delaying the erection of a school any longer. Messrs. Kemp and Shepherd most readily offered to assist in the building. I hope in eight weeks, should I be detained so long, to see the school nearly completed. It is very distressing that a school has not long since been established here.

Tuesday, September 23rd.--The weather has been very stormy and wet. I remained in the house nearly all the day examining the New Zealand Grammar, which appears to be very imperfect. The rules laid down in the Grammar for the orthography and pronunciation of the language are not simple enough for the missionaries to comprehend. They cannot retain in their memories the sound of the vowels as laid down in the rules of the Grammar, and consequently the pronunciation, so as the natives can understand them. The changing the English pronunciation of the vowels has created very great confusion amongst the whole. I do not see any good reason for changing the sound of the vowels as the New Zealanders can with so much ease sound all the

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English alphabet. If in speaking and writing the New Zealand language the Europeans retain the English pronunciation, the whole difficulty of which they complain will be removed. I propose taking an early opportunity of conversing with the Rev. Mr. Kendall upon this subject-- to know if there is any cogent objection to the missionaries retaining the English sound of the vowels in the New Zealand language. I cannot see any myself, and I am sure I should despair of ever being able either to write or speak the New Zealand language according to the rules in the Grammar. 18

Wednesday, September 24th.--I am very anxious now to return , to my family and congregation, but have no prospect. I may be detained for months. This is a very dark dispensation. I know the Lord is too wise to err and too kind to afflict willingly. At the same time I feel an inclination to murmur and complain, and, like the Israelites of old, am discouraged because of the way. What I know not now I perhaps shall know hereafter. The loss of the Brampton appears to me very mysterious. No ship was ever lost in the Bay of Islands before --the harbours are so commodious and fine. I censure no one for her loss, though I think--and always shall--that it is a very extraordinary circumstance. I know nothing happens by chance, and, therefore, it was the Divine will that she should be wrecked for reasons which man cannot explain. Therefore, Thy will be done!

Thursday, September 25th.--I wrote this day a circular letter to the missionaries recommending them to unite cordially in the work of the Mission and to form some regular plan respecting the language. Everyone has hitherto followed his own system, and all different, which can never answer and will create nothing but confusion. Some have not ability, and others have not learning sufficient to write the language, and should avail themselves of the superior abilities of their colleagues. The want of humility has been very great in the missionaries. The apostle's advice has been wholly forgotten by them: "In lowliness of mind let each esteem other better than themselves." (Philippians ii, 3.)

Friday, September 26th.--This morning I left Kiddee Kiddee to pay a visit to the Rev. H. Williams at Pyhea (Paihia). On my way I passed by the wreck of the Brampton. It is a very distressing sight to see so fine a ship knocked to pieces upon the rocks. The Lord in the midst of judgment remembered mercy, or we might have been buried in the great deep. The vessel could not have been lost upon a more secure place for the safety of our lives and property than she was, and therefore we should be thankful to Divine goodness Who commands the stormy winds when they arise.

On my arrival at Pyhea I found all the Europeans well and comfortably lodged in their new situation. The natives had behaved very kindly. Though their stores and other property had been much exposed,

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no theft had been committed; they had not missed so much as a single nail. The head chief is a very excellent character. He had lived with me at Parramatta, and his son afterwards died in my house, which attached him and his wife very much to our family. He was his only son. I had given him permission to go with me to the Colony in order to remove his bones to their family sepulchre. The Rev. H. Williams is settled in a very beautiful, as well as important, situation, and has. every prospect of being both useful and happy in his work. 19

Saturday, September 27th.--This morning I visited the Rev. Thomas Kendall and conversed with him relative to his Grammar. I stated to him the difficulty I found in it with respect to the pronunciation of the vowels, and that the missionaries met with the same difficulty in following his rules. Mr. Kendall candidly admitted that the difficulty was so great that he could not himself follow the system he had laid down. It appeared to me absurd to study Mr. Kendall's theory, which he himself could not reduce to practice, and I conceived that, if a vocabulary of the New Zealand language was written in which the pronunciation of the vowels was retained according to the English, the difficulty would be removed. They also spelled proper names different from what they were in the original, by which great difficulties were created both in writing and pronouncing the New Zealand language.

Mr. Kendall gave me no satisfactory reason. I contended that, as the New Zealanders were so quick in learning our language and could pronounce the vowels so well according to our custom, I thought it would be advisable to retain the English pronunciation of the vowels, as this would greatly facilitate the acquirement of the language. The missionaries would soon then learn to speak and write it, while according to the present system they never could. I also recommended that all the English terms for such things as the natives had never seen should be introduced into the New Zealand language--that a sheep should be called a sheep, a cow a cow, etc. If we did not do this the New Zealanders would give their names by comparison, and probably it would

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require three or more words in some things to express what we do in one. The New Zealand language is also very impure, and that impurity would increase by allowing them to give names to animals, etc., but if we retained our own terms and interwove our language with theirs, this would tend to make their language more chaste. At present it is very unchaste and offensive.

It was at length determined to write a new vocabulary of the New Zealand language, and to retain the English pronunciation of the vowels and the English terms for such things as the natives never saw. I recommended Mr. Kendall to set about this important work immediately, which he agreed to do. He was not to write this vocabulary on the Church Missionary Society's account, as he is no longer a servant of theirs. I observed to Mr. Kendall that the Society was no debtor to him, but he was a debtor to the Society and therefore should do anything he could to repay them. I promised to furnish him with all the words I could procure from the other missionaries, as I knew that they would cordially write in the plan now adopted.

Sunday, September 28th.--I preached for the Rev. Mr. Williams this morning in his little thatched church--about thirty feet long by fifteen--which has just been built. Several natives attended, besides the Europeans, and behaved well. When once they know the joyful sound they will become a great people. I never saw finer or better behaved children than the children of the natives.

In the evening I preached to the crew of the Brampton on the Island of Mootooroa (Moturoa), about six miles distant from Pyhea. I long much to return to my family and people. To worship God on an island in a savage land is very different from meeting in the assembly of the saints in God's holy temple here on earth. There wants that sacredness and solemnity and holy reverence which appear to be attached to the very walls of God's house where His people meet to worship Him, and which lend so much to excite devout affections in the pious mind.

Monday, September 29th.--This morning we observed some large war canoes cross the harbour, and in a little time afterwards I was informed that Shunghee had returned from his expedition. I was very glad to hear this news, as it was apprehended he would have been exceedingly angry if he had on his return found Mr. Kendall gone. I am in hopes I shall be able to convince him of the necessity of Mr. Kendall's removal, and also induce him to make some other arrangements with him for the good of the Mission. His mind was very much prejudiced against me on his return from England, in consequence of my opposition to the missionaries supplying the natives with muskets and powder. He had also been told that I had written home against him, which made him very angry. He has been expecting Mr. Clark (Clarke) for some time to make him guns. I have retained Mr. Clark in New South Wales until I have a full explanation with Shunghee relative to Mr. Clark's employment should he come to New Zealand. If Shunghee is determined that he shall work as a gunsmith, Mr. Clark must not come. If he will allow him to come as a missionary, he may then venture. 20

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It is much to be lamented that Shunghee is so fond of war, and that from his firearms he is so powerful that no tribe in the island can withstand his force. Great slaughter has been made in this expedition of the inhabitants to the southward. Shunghee has been absent about eight months, fighting on the east side and in the interior. Another party connected with Shunghee was carrying on war on the west side, at a place called Terranakkee (Taranaki), said to be very populous, situated 200 miles or more from the Bay of Islands. A man of high rank, a relation of Shunghee's named Toukoukou, has been killed in this expedition. His friends secured his body and prevented it from falling into the enemy's hands. They cut his head off and have brought it with them. They also cut off all the flesh from the bones and burnt it, to prevent it from being eaten, and brought his bones with them. These they carried a long way overland, and they have arrived to-day. There will be great lamentations over these bones. The death of this chief will cause another expedition against Terranakkee. Whenever a man of high rank is slain in battle, though in the common chance of war, his surviving relatives feel themselves bound to revenge his death whenever they are strong enough to do this.

Tuesday, September 30th.--Last night Mr. Kemp came to Pyhea, and this morning I went with him to Mr. Kendall's, as Mr. Kendall

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had consented to hand over some books belonging to the Society. I renewed my conversation with Mr. Kendall respecting the native language, as I wished to gain what information I could on the subject in order that I might form some opinion on the best mode to adopt in learning it. I cannot rely upon my own judgment for want of knowing more of the language myself. From every information I can gain, it appears best to retain the English pronunciation of the vowels. Following the directions of the Grammar with respect to the vowels burdens the memory too much, and is more than the missionaries can accomplish. They read the English language daily, and are in the constant habit of pronouncing the vowels according to custom; when they come to the New Zealand language they are at a stand.

Wednesday, October ist.--This morning I went to visit Tooi's (Tuhi) tribe, accompanied by the Rev. H. Williams and Mr. Kemp. The distance is about nine miles by water. We found an immense number of women and children at home. Tooi and his brother, Korokoro, with his uncle, Repo, and their fighting men were gone to war. Information had arrived that Kipo (Kaipo) had been slain in battle, and that Korokoro had also died a natural death. Kipo was a young man when Captain Cook visited New Zealand. He was a very fine old man and a great warrior. His widow and daughter were dressed in their mourning dress and sat very silent and afflicted together. They literally appeared to sorrow as those without hope. The whole tribe was much concerned for the loss of their chiefs. They told me Tooi was waiting with his brother's body on a small island not far from the Thames until they could bring it to the Bay of Islands. They requested me to come and see Korokoro when his body was brought home. One of Tooi's brothers was there. He told me that Tooi was so much distressed in his mind from the continual wars that he was determined to leave New Zealand. Perhaps as Korokoro is dead, who was so very great a man for war, Tooi may use his influence with his people now to abstain from it, as he will be the head of the tribe. His elder brother, who loves peace, will, I have no doubt, second Tooi if he should be desirous to lead a quiet life. The other chiefs, when they cannot prevail with their neighbouring friends to join them in their expedition, shame them into a compliance by accusing them of cowardice. They urged me very much to send them a missionary to live in their district, said they had been long promised one, and contended they had a claim as Korokoro came first to Parramatta for the missionaries and Tooi afterwards went to England. The reason why a missionary has not resided with them to the present time is that it has been considered that, as all the fighting parties from the northward and in the Bay of Islands pass by their settlements, a missionary would be much annoyed by them and liable to be robbed, as the New Zealanders are very much like common soldiers in war, and delight in plunder and destruction of property. I hope the day may come when a missionary may be spared for them and safely reside with their tribe, in which the children are very numerous. Should Tooi return previous to my departure I shall be able to learn what are his future intentions, and, now that his brother is dead, he may yet be useful to his countrymen.

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Thursday, October 2nd.--This morning I left Pyhea with Mr. Kemp, as I wished to see Shunghee and also to get on with the school. When we arrived at Kiddee Kiddee Shunghee was gone to Wymattee, about twelve miles distant from the missionary settlement, where the principal part of his cultivation is carried on. He is expected to return in a day or two. What reception he will give me I cannot say.

I feel like a person in prison, having no prospect of leaving New Zealand. I am afraid of going to the Thames or any other distant part lest I should lose an opportunity of getting a passage. I should wish to visit Wycotto (Waikato), but the distance is too great unless I was certain a vessel would not arrive in my absence.

Friday, October 3rd.--The Rev. Mr. Turner, 21 missionary from Wangarooa belonging to the Wesleyan Mission, paid us a visit to-day. One great object of his journey was to consult us about the native language. They were all in confusion at their settlement about it, as they could not follow the rules laid down in Mr. Kendall's Grammar with respect to the pronunciation of the vowels. I informed Mr. Turner what resolutions the missionaries had come to respecting it and also what the Rev. Mr. Kendall said. Mr. Turner expressed much satisfaction that an alteration was to be made; that it was his opinion, as well as that of his colleagues, that the English pronunciation of the vowels should be followed. The Rev. Samuel Leigh coincided in the same opinion. I hope this question will now be at rest, as all are unanimously of opinion that the vowels should retain the English pronunciation and that future experience will prove that the mode now adopted is the best.

Saturday, October 4th.--The Rev. Thomas Kendall paid me a visit. He brought me about 500 words for examination and correction to the intended new vocabulary. He appeared very much agitated in his mind and under the government of a very unchristianlike spirit. He inveighed most bitterly against the missionaries, spoke very disrespectfully of the parent committee, and, at the same time, attempted to cast some reflections upon me. I had treated him with great tenderness hitherto, so that he had no cause to complain on any just grounds. He told me he would not leave New Zealand but was determined to come and live at Kiddee Kiddee. What a dreadful tormentor is an accusing conscience! When professors fall into open scandalous sin they lose the fear of God. Their pride increases continually, after their fall, until they become a terror to themselves and to those connected with them. Mr. Kendall appeared to me to be as full of pride, wrath, and bitterness, as if he had never known anything of Christianity. He manifested all the violent passions of a heathen. When professors of religion fall into the snare of the Devil, how dreadfully does the Prince of Darkness work in their hearts! He seems to glory in scourging them in every possible way and inflames their pride to the utmost, while, at the same time, he furnishes them with arguments to vindicate their wicked conduct, either from the example of living or the departed

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saints. If drinking is his sin, he appeals to the example of Noah; if fornication and adultery are his crimes, he tells you the man after God's own heart was guilty of the same. The sorrow which a man in this state may occasionally express for his misconduct springs more from pride and self-love than humility. He is sorry that he has injured his reputation, his temporal interest, and lost his rank in society, but this is only the sorrow of the World. His pride is greater, his haughty spirit is more captious, and he is more vindictive than a man who has never known anything of Divine things. He seems to be wholly under Satanical influence and his last state is worse than his first.

I recommended Mr. Kendall to be cool and to consider what he was about before he went too far, but it was in vain to reason with him. I was apprehensive that he would create much mischief in the Mission, should it be in his power, by his rash and inconsiderate conduct. He contended the Society were bound to pay him his salary and to maintain his family while he remained in New Zealand, and afterwards to find him a passage to England. I replied that if he wanted support for his family until an opportunity offered for his going to Port Jackson, I would direct his wants to be supplied; but I could only do this on the express condition that he left New Zealand by the first opportunity. He replied with much warmth that he was determined to remain and would not be driven out of the Island. I used every argument in my power to pacify him, but to no purpose.

While we were talking Shunghee walked into the room. I had not seen him before since my arrival, as he had only returned a few days from the war and had been out at his farm. I was very sorry that our first meeting should have happened at this unfortunate time, as Mr. Kendall's countenance and manner betrayed the angry state of his mind. Shunghee was very civil but a little reserved. I was afraid Mr. Kendall would say something bitter to him to vex him, and I was very uneasy while he remained. At length he departed, observing to Shunghee that he would see him again, and asked Shunghee if he would allow him to come to live at Kiddee Kiddee. Shunghee said he would pay him a visit in a little time. I invited Shunghee to take tea with me, which he readily agreed to, and we parted afterwards very friendly. At the same time something appeared to be preying upon his mind. He asked me what had passed between me and Mr. Kendall, but I did not think it prudent to tell him the whole. Shunghee behaved much more civil than I expected he would have done, as we did not part very cordially at Parramatta in consequence of my difference with Mr. Kendall about muskets and gunpowder, and on some other accounts.

Sunday, October 5th.--I preached to-day at Kiddee Kiddee and administered the holy Sacrament, but I spent the Sabbath very uncomfortably. I could not free my mind from the great anxiety which Mr. Kendall's violent conduct had excited the last evening. It is very painful to have anything to do with professors of religion who have fallen from their steadfastness and are under the dominion of unbridled passions. They are the most unreasonable of all men. The difficulty is much increased when this happens in a savage land, where there is no legal authority to protect the good from the designs of the fallen, enraged

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slave of sin. Mr. Kendall's fall must be considered as a most awful event, and has been attended with much distress and misery to himself, his family, and his colleagues, as well as to all the friends of the Mission. It has been a source of grief to all who love the Gospel and pray for the heathen.

Monday, October 6th.--Shunghee was invited to breakfast with me this morning. I wished for an opportunity to enter into a full explanation with him. He accepted my invitation and we met very cordially. After a little conversation he alluded to what had passed between us at Port Jackson when he returned from England, and reminded me that he had told me never to come to New Zealand again. He found by my coming that I was not afraid of the New Zealanders, and observed that my anger was only in my mouth; that if it had been in my heart I should have come no more. I told him I had no cause to be under any apprehensions, nor was I angry. We conversed upon various subjects, and all prejudice appeared to be removed from his mind. I did not mention to him as yet Mr. Clark's (Clarke) name, but intend to do so the first fair opportunity. I know he has been long talking about him, and has been anxious to see him. It will be a nice point to settle Mr. Clark's business with Shunghee, as he knows he is a gunsmith. If Shunghee will allow him to come as a schoolmaster, and promise that he will not require him to repair his guns, Mr. Clark would be a valuable man in the Mission. I believe Mr. Kemp and Mr. Clark would go on well together. Mr. Kemp wants a pious companion to second him in the work of the Mission.

We held a committee to-day, when different subjects came under consideration. I conceived the house which the committee had agreed to build for Mr. Samuel Butler far too large and expensive. I told the missionaries that it was out of my power to sanction such unnecessary expenditure of the Society's funds. Mr. Butler did not like the alteration, as he thought his son ought to have such a house as the committee had agreed to. At length I carried the alteration, and the building was reduced to 48 feet by 15, divided into different rooms. 22 This

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was a building quite large enough and to spare, as Mr. Butler has only his wife and himself. The public business took up the whole day, during which many unpleasant observations passed in the committee, which grieved me much. The evils of this Mission have been very great.

Tuesday, October 7th.--This day the committee met again to close the matters under consideration. I was far from being satisfied with all that had been done. The Rev. John Butler had been very warm, and had expressed himself very unguardedly. His son had also shown a very improper disposition. I was determined to write to the Rev. John Butler and to speak to both him and his son, to point out to them what appeared to me so very improper in their conduct at the committee.

After the committee closed I went with Shunghee, accompanied by the Rev. John Butler, to fix upon a place for a small house for Shunghee 20 feet by 10. I have no doubt but a little house will be highly acceptable to him, and it is but right that he should have one. I have long wished this to be done for him and I hope it now will.

Wednesday, October 8th.--I sent for Mr. John Butler this morning and spoke both to him and his son relative to what passed at the committee, and also wrote him a public letter which I hope will be attended with some good effect. It is painful to have to reprove persons in public situations, who ought to conduct themselves so as never to require anything unpleasant to be said to them. I wrote also a letter to the Rev. Thomas Kendall upon his improper conduct on the fourth instant at Kiddee Kiddee. I feel my situation far from being pleasant in such a society. There are some in the Mission whom I much esteem for their piety and Christian behaviour. I would they were all such.

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Shunghee called upon me in the morning, and we had much conversation upon different subjects. He told me that he wished to turn his attention to agriculture, if I would send him a man to teach his people to plough and furnish him with a team. He would then make a road into the interior to Wymattee (Waimate), about twelve miles from the missionary settlement, where the land was rich, and carry on his cultivation there. I replied that if he would give over fighting he should have a man and a team, and told him if he wished to be king of New Zealand he must become a great farmer first and get plenty of provisions, and, when he grew rich in provisions, he would increase his power and influence on New Zealand. However, he did not promise to abstain from war. At the same time he expressed a strong desire to cultivate wheat, etc. He wants some object of importance to employ his great mind. There is nothing in New Zealand but war that can meet his active spirit. Agriculture alone offers a substitute, and I think that would have a good effect. I now told him that Mr. Clark was at Port Jackson, teaching the natives in the Colony, and I wished to know if he would allow him to teach the children at Kiddee Kiddee if I should send him down. He said he might come to Kiddee Kiddee and teach school. Shunghee had long been looking for Mr. Clark to make muskets for him, and he told me at Port Jackson he was coming for that purpose. I did not mention the muskets to him at this time; it was too sore a subject to touch upon. I believe Shunghee will give up this point at last. I was very much pleased with the whole of his conversation, and particularly with his remarks upon agriculture. He told me that he was apprehensive that the English would send soldiers to New Zealand from Port Jackson, and take the country from them. I told him we had plenty of land at Port Jackson--more than we wanted --and took a chart and showed him what a little spot New Zealand was compared with New Holland, and that New Zealand was not an object to the English and therefore he need not be afraid of them. When he saw the chart he seemed satisfied. I told him I thought the chiefs of New Zealand had better make him king, and then he might put an end to their wars. He replied the chiefs would not be persuaded to do this by him; that when he was at war he was feared and respected, but when he returned home they would not hearken to anything he might say. I endeavoured to point out to him the evils of civil war--that it must destroy the country and therefore ought not to be practised, that if a foreign enemy came to fight them then they might go to war, but not one with another. He said he had conquered all the country further than Towrangha (Tauranga), as well in the interior as on the coast, and had made peace with them, and that great numbers had been cut off. He showed me where he had been struck three times with a ball. His helmet saved him once, and his coat of mail once, and a ball had hit his thigh. After dinner I accompanied the Rev. Henry Williams to his station, where I remained for the night.

Thursday, October 9th.--This day I spent with the Rev. Henry Williams. I am happy to see him go on so well. He and his family are now comfortably settled and are happy in their new situation. I think they will prove a great blessing to the Mission. He is a man of a superior character, and better informed than any who have hitherto

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The Mission Station at Kerikeri in 1824.

From the Atlas of the Histoire du Voyage de la Coquille (Paris, 1826).

The Coquille, commanded by Captain L. I. Duperrey, reached the Bay of Islands on April 4th, 1824, and remained there for a fortnight. Renamed the Astrolabe in memory of the lost navigator La Perouse, and commanded by Captain Dumont d'Urville, who had served as a lieutenant under Duperrey, the vessel again visited New Zealand in 1826-7, and in 1840. On April 26th of that year she entered the Bay of Islands and remained there for a week during the excitement caused by the arrival of Governor Hobson and the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.

While the Coquille lay in the Bay of Islands in 1824, Dumont d'Urville remarks, "the most amiable relations were maintained between the French and the natives, and several officers made an interesting visit to Kidi-Kidi (Kerikeri), the principal station of the English missionaries at this place."--Dumont d'Urville, Voyage de la corvette l'Astrolabe (Paris, 1831), Vol. I, p. 7, and Vol. Ill, p. 672.

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ETABLISSEMENT DES MISSIONAIRES ANGLAIS A KIDIKIDI (NOUVELLE ZELANDE)
Lejeune et Chazal delint.

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been employed in this Mission. I hope he will be able to correct and remedy in time many evils that have existed, and also set an example to the rest what they as missionaries should do.

Friday, October 10th.--This morning I left the Rev. Mr. Williams and proceeded to Monganuee (Mangonui), where Mr. Samuel Butler is stationed, about fourteen miles distant. On my arrival there I met with the Rev. John Butler and Mr. William Hall. We fixed upon the place where the new house is to stand. 23 Most of the materials are on the spot. It is an excellent station in every respect, provided those employed will do their best. In the evening I returned to Rangheehoo with Mr. Hall, where we arrived before nine o'clock. I had not visited Rangheehoo since the shipwreck. A school is now begun here, and I hope it will go on well under the care of Messrs. Hall and King. The natives are all very quiet, and they live in as much peace as they could in any civilized country. They assured me they have now no trouble whatever with the natives. The missionaries never would have had much trouble if they could only have agreed amongst themselves. It is not the natives that have distressed them, but they have tormented and distressed one another.

Saturday, October 1 ith.--This day I visited the old chief Rawkou (Rakau) and his family. His son 24 pressed me much to allow him to go to New South Wales. One native young woman gave me a very bad account of Mr. Kendall's conduct. She made many very proper remarks upon the impropriety of his proceedings. She said she had been told he would not leave New Zealand. I replied if he did not his friends would not send him any more supplies of tea, sugar, etc., and he would be in want. She answered he had got plenty of money and would purchase what he wanted for himself. After some conversation the young woman asked me to give her a little print for a gown. I told her I was afraid that she went on board a ship and did wrong. She assured me that she had never been on board a ship since I first went with Duaterra (Ruatara) to New Zealand, and that she never would go. I believe she told me the truth from the manner in which she spoke and the reasons she gave me. I was much pleased with the whole of her observations. I told her if I found upon enquiry that what she stated was true I would give her a new gown.

While we were talking two other young women joined us. One of them wished to know what was the subject of our conversation. I told her I had been informed the young woman went on board a ship, and I supposed she was one that did so. She replied if I had been told that she had ever gone on board a ship for improper purposes I had been told what was false, for she never had. I then charged the third young woman with doing so, who did not attempt to deny that she had. I was much pleased with the moral virtue of the two first I conversed with. They spoke of such improprieties with more disgust than I

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could have conceived any woman in their situation could have possessed. I firmly believe they said what was true. They desired me to appeal to the Europeans or to their own people, who could affirm the truth of their assertions. A brother of one of the young women, a fine youth, died at Parramatta.

In the evening I called upon Wycotto (Waikato), as I could not see him before as he was out at work on his farm. We had a long conversation on the distressed state of New Zealand in consequence of their perpetual wars. He told me many thousands had been slain since his return from Europe, and that, at Shunghee's earnest request, he had accompanied him in one expedition to the River Thames against Enakkee (Te Hinaki). The scenes of slaughter and cannibalism at and after the battle in which Enakkee was killed were so horrid and offensive to him that he could not eat anything for four days. He spoke with the greatest abhorrence of the cannibalism of his countrymen, and said that he would never go to war again; that Shunghee had solicited him to accompany him in his last expedition against Rotooru (Rotorua), but he had refused to go. He observed the New Zealanders would never be quiet from war--that he could not live in the country--and asked me if I would afford him any protection if he and his family came to Port Jackson. I promised him I would. He said he had seen Shunghee since his return, who informed him that it was his intention to form another expedition against Terranakee (Taranaki) as soon as I left New Zealand, but he would not do it until I was gone. 25

He asked me if I had seen Shunghee and whether he was friendly or not. I told him I had, and that we were very friendly. He thought our difference at Port Jackson might have interrupted our friendship, and expressed his satisfaction that we were reconciled. Wycotto observed that there was no force in New Zealand that could resist the people at the Bay of Islands--they were so powerful from the abundance of arms and ammunition which they possessed--and lamented that they had such means for continual war which occasioned such great public calamities, famine, and distress everywhere, as all their pork and potatoes were destroyed and their farms neglected. I replied it would be much better for all the chiefs to assemble and make Shunghee king, upon condition that he would not fight but protect them. He asked me if I had mentioned this to Shunghee. I informed him I had. Wycotto approved of Shunghee having the authority, if he would only be quiet, and said he would go to see Shunghee and talk with him on the subject; but he had little hope that Shunghee would abstain from war. As for himself and some others, they were ashamed, when called upon to join in an expedition, not to go, as they would be considered as cowards if they did not, however much averse to war they were; but he was determined to leave New Zealand rather than be compelled to fight. His wife told me she would give me a slave on Monday morning. He was a chief's son who had been killed in battle. The boy had been taken a prisoner of war. I accepted her offer, as this would redeem another poor creature from the sorest bondage and slavery. A slave has no security for his life. His master kills him whenever he pleases, and

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treats him in any way his passions may dictate. They are much to be pitied. Nothing but the Gospel of our blessed God can effectually provide a remedy for their spiritual and temporal bondage.

Sunday, October 12th.--I preached to-day at Rangheehoo both the morning and evening. It gives me much pleasure to see a school at length begun. The children are capable of learning anything that we wish to teach them. It is much to be lamented that they have been so long neglected. It is most distressing to think of the evils which have existed amongst the Europeans, which have impeded all improvements amongst the natives.

Monday, October 13th.--Early this morning Wycotto brought me the boy his wife had made me a present of on Saturday evening. I found on enquiry that his father had been killed in battle a considerable distance to the southward of the River Thames, and he was made a prisoner of war at the time, that he had been taken prisoner a second time and brought to the Bay of Islands. I intend to take him with me to the Colony and give him some useful instruction, so that he may be of advantage to his country at some distant period should Providence open the way.

I had much conversation with Werreepork on the state of New Zealand. He is a chief of very considerable influence and considered one of the bravest warriors in New Zealand. He wishes for peace, and requested me to speak to Shunghee on the subject. If Shunghee would give up fighting, most of the chiefs in the Bay of Islands appear anxious to attend to their cultivation and to their families. Their minds are gradually enlarging, only they want an object--something of importance to exercise their active abilities with. I have recommended to several of them to turn their attention to the building of a vessel of about 120 tons, with which they could keep up a constant communication with Port Jackson. Many of them are very anxious to go there. If they would turn their attention to agriculture and commerce, these would furnish a field sufficient to occupy their minds. They would increase their wants and their means of supplying them. Until something of this kind is adopted, I cannot conceive how their wars are to be prevented. When they have lost a near relation in battle their minds continually dwell upon the death of their friend, having nothing to occupy them. If they are able to revenge the death of their friend, they will attempt it as soon as possible; if not, they will think of their loss for years, and mourn over it, and if, at any future period, they can obtain satisfaction during their life, they will never lose an opportunity. Their wounded feelings never appear to be healed, and they feel it a sacred duty which they owe to their departed relatives to punish those by whose hands they have fallen, though they were cut off by the common chance of war. It is possible if they had a regular intercourse with civil society, and objects of importance to occupy their minds, the force of those national affections and superstitious notions would be gradually weakened and their feelings relieved. It is to be hoped that the rising generation will have different views and different objects in view, as they will be better informed in civil matters and less instructed in their art of war. In the evening I went to Pyhea to visit the Rev. H. Williams, and found all well.

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Tuesday, October 14th.--This morning I returned to Kiddee Kiddee with Mrs. Kemp, who had been on a visit to Mrs. Williams. I wished to have some further conversation with Shunghee relative to the state of New Zealand. On my arrival I learned he was gone to Wymattee to superintend the planting of his sweet potatoes. I had a long conversation with Riva (Rewha), the next in command to Shunghee. He had heard that his brother had been killed in battle, and another chief to the southward, and said that if the information was correct he must go and revenge his death immediately. I pointed out to him the calamities of war, and how much better it would be for them to cultivate the arts of peace. He replied his heart was so big when he thought of his brother that he could not keep it down, and satisfaction he must have before he could rest.

Wednesday, October 15th.--Riva called upon me this morning,, and we renewed our conversation upon the distressed state of New Zealand on account of their internal wars. I told him that the chiefs had better make Shunghee king, and then there might be some prospect of peace. He replied the chiefs of New Zealand would never consent to do that, because they would think this would degrade them to have any superior. I told him this would not affect their estates or their liberty, as Shunghee, if he was appointed king, could not take their lands from them any more than King George could take the lands from the gentlemen in England. He replied they were in a very different state, and asked me if I intended to compare the chiefs in New Zealand with the chiefs in England. I told him if they could not agree to make Shunghee king, I thought the chiefs of the Bay of Islands might unite and build a vessel, and, if they would do this, I would furnish them with a shipwright. Many of them wished to come to Port Jackson; they might then come when they wished to do so. He replied the chiefs would never agree together in having a ship for each of them would want to have the direction, and observed that they could not agree to allow the missionaries to live all together. Everyone wants them to reside with their tribes. Those who have not got missionaries in their district, their hearts are sick and they are continually coveting them. He made many pointed remarks upon the corruption of the men's hearts and on the passions that governed them.

The New Zealanders are men of great reflection and observation,, and they try to find out the motive for every act which a man does. It is a very common observation with them that the outside of a man may be seen but the inside cannot, and they frequently observe to me, after I have been conversing with any of their countrymen, "You hear them speak, but you do not know what is in their hearts!" If it should ever please God to give them the knowledge of His grace and love, they will become a very wonderful people. They study human nature with the closest attention, and endeavour to find out every man's real character from the whole of his conduct. A rude and violent man is very offensive to them. Amongst themselves they live in great peace and harmony. I have not seen either man, woman, or boy struck by one another since I have been in the island.

Wednesday, October 22nd.--To-day Temmarangha (Te Morenga) paid me a visit, having just returned from war. He is a man of very

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high rank--a great warrior at the same time humane and a lover of peace. I found him one of the most intelligent chiefs in New Zealand when I formerly was in the island. In one journey, about three years ago, he accompanied me to the west side of New Zealand to Towrangha (Tauranga) and to various other parts. We were about three months on our journey.

Shunghee and Temmarangha have always been very jealous of each other. They had a difference when I was in New Zealand before, in which Temmarangha had eight men killed and some wounded. Temmarangha afterwards made an attack upon Shunghee's settlement, where the missionaries reside, and burned his war canoes. That difference has not been finally settled yet. Neither Temmarangha nor Shunghee appear to have been in such a situation since the above period as to venture to decide their quarrel by force of arms. It is expected they will do this when a fair opportunity offers. Ever since Shunghee's return from England he has had enough to do in carrying on his wars to the southward, in order to revenge the death of some of his friends who were cut off in his absence. In these wars Temmarangha has joined him.

Shunghee came into my room while Temmarangha was with me. They saluted each other with much politeness. In the course of our conversation they gave me a very particular account of their last expedition to Rotooru (Rotorua). When they went to war against the tribes of the River Thames, there was a chief there from Rotooru. He was along with the chief whom Shunghee and Temmarangha were going to attack. Temmarangha advised him to return to Rotooru before the action began, as he might be cut off. They had no difference with him and Temmarangha did not wish him to risk his life. However, the chief remained with his friend, and fell in battle. Shortly after this action a trading party went to Rotooru from the Bay of Islands and Wangarooa. The inhabitants of Rotooru, having lost one of their chiefs at the Thames and taking these traders for spies, killed fifteen of them and the rest narrowly escaped. When this information arrived at the Bay of Islands, Shunghee, in conjunction with the other chiefs, prepared to revenge the deaths of their friends upon the people of Rotooru. A large army was assembled from the different tribes and Shunghee proceeded at their head to Towrangha. The number of war canoes which met at Towrangha is stated to amount to one hundred. Rotooru is an island situated in the middle of a large lake in the interior, and very populous. 26 Shunghee had to make roads through the woods and to drag his canoes to the lake, which was accomplished in about twelve days. There are two lakes which the army had to cross. The second and largest is Rotooru. Two chiefs, Pomare and Showrakkee (Hauraki), proceeded before Shunghee, and the main body attacked the inhabitants on the island in the first lake. They were both defeated, lost part of their men and were nearly cut off themselves, and compelled to retreat to Shunghee. When Shunghee arrived at the large lake he launched his canoes and advanced towards the island, which he found fortified all round, very populous, and the inhabitants prepared to

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defend themselves. Shunghee examined the island for three days before he fixed on a place to make an attack. All the chiefs were afraid, excepting Shunghee; they conceived the place was too strong for them. Their fortifications were very near the edge of the lake.

When Shunghee had determined the point where he would begin his operations, he recommended that all the canoes should advance at once in line of battle. He took the centre, and every chief had the command of the men of his own tribe. When he drew near the shore they heard the natives in the fort say, "Shunghee is not there." One of the chiefs named Showrakkee had married a wife from that place. 27 He landed her, and she went into the fort to request her friends to make their escape, or they would be put to death. She told them Shunghee was there and pointed him out. The people then cried aloud, "There is the god of New Zealand; we shall all be killed."

As soon as the chief saw Shunghee he fired at him and the ball passed through the front of his helmet but did not wound him. The chief fired two more shots at Shunghee; one hit his arm and the other his thigh. After this the natives rushed out of the fort to oppose Shunghee's army in their landing, when a very great slaughter was made. They could not resist the firearms of Shunghee's forces and fell in great numbers. Shunghee told me he had fifteen muskets himself which his servants loaded for him as he fired them. The island was soon subdued, and about five hundred prisoners of war were taken. Shunghee lost some of his people and had many wounded.

In some parts of this lake the water is hot and full of sulphur springs. Shunghee had his wounded bathed in these warm springs, in which they lay all night. He told me he could make the water any heat he wished, as some of it was always boiling, by making little channels in the mud to convey either the hot or cold water into the baths where his people lay. It cured them also of cutaneous eruptions and other complaints.

After the island was subdued peace was established, when they returned to Towrangha with their prisoners of war, many of whom had made their escape in the night. Shunghee's army on their return were so fatigued in dragging their canoes through the woods that they were unable to guard their prisoners of war, being overpowered with sleep. Tooi (Tuhi) was in this action; he had an uncle killed named Kipo (Kaipo).

The hunger, toil, and hardships the New Zealanders suffer in. these expeditions are very great. They are a very persevering people. No privations or hardships can prevent them pursuing any object their minds are set upon.

I was told that Shunghee and Pomare in this expedition had some difference. Pomare wished to have the matter immediately settled by force of arms. Shunghee objected, alleging that while they were in an enemy's country they should unite their forces, and, when they returned to the Bay of Islands, they could then decide their present disputes. Pomare is a very proud man: he had not returned when I sailed. How their difference will be settled when he arrives in uncertain.. I think he will be quiet.

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Thursday, October 23rd.--To-day I went down to see Captain Walker of the Dragon in order to get a passage, if I could, to Port Jackson. He demanded a thousand pounds. In the evening I proceeded to Pyhea to the Rev. H. Williams' station. Mr. Kemp and Shunghee accompanied me. I had much conversation with Shunghee about the state of New Zealand. He said, for the first time I had ever heard him, that he had no wish for war, but the other chiefs called upon him to revenge their quarrels. I wished to know whether I might send Mr. Clark (Clarke) to New Zealand or not, and what the real thoughts of his heart were on the subject--whether he would let Mr. Clark be quiet. He asked Mr. Kemp if he ever troubled him now. Mr. Kemp replied, "No." He would not promise, but intimated I might trust him without his word. I therefore resolved to send him.

Friday, October 24th.--This morning I wrote a note to the Rev. T. Kendall to know whether he intended to go to Port Jackson with me if I took up the Dragon. I called upon Captain Walker on my way to Kiddee Kiddee; he still stood out for £1,000. I am very anxious to return home but must remain unless Mr. Walker lowers his terms. I received a letter from Mr. Kendall this day written on the 14th inst. He shows a very unchristian spirit through the whole.

Sunday, October 26th.--Assisted in the Divine service, but was not comfortable. Found my mind too much burdened with difficulties that I could not enjoy the Sabbath as I ought. It is very distressing to have to do with unreasonable professors of religion. I have always found it more easy to deal with unreasonable and wicked men than such characters. In the evening I was informed the Rev. T. Kendall was arrived at Kiddee Kiddee. He did not visit the missionary settlement, but went to Shunghee with whom he remained all night--a strong proof of the state of his mind, when he could prefer on the Sabbath evening the company and conversation of savages to the society of his countrymen in the very sight of their houses. I suspected his intention was not good, but to prejudice and inflame Shunghee's mind against myself and all the missionaries.

Monday, October 27th.--This morning Mr. Kemp sent to invite Mr. Kendall to breakfast, but he declined coming. I wished Mr. Kemp to do this to soften things as well as we could, knowing the influence he had over Shunghee's mind. Mr. Kemp afterwards went over to Mr. Kendall to request him to settle his accounts with him as he was at Kiddee Kiddee, but he refused to come. Shunghee was very distant with Mr. Kemp, and wanted to know why I and all the missionaries were angry with Mr. Kendall. Shunghee told Mr. Kemp that Mr. Butler was a bad man and should not stay at Kiddee Kiddee, and made many more unfavourable observations. Mr. Kendall had promised to build Shunghee a house and to come and live with him at Kiddee Kiddee. I saw he had wrought powerfully upon Shunghee's mind. Mr. Kemp invited Shunghee to dine with me, but he declined. At length Mr. Kendall went away without calling upon me or any of the missionaries.

After dinner I called upon Shunghee; he was rather distant. We had some conversation upon indifferent things, when I returned home. I was very much hurt to think that Mr. Kendall should act such an

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unchristian part as it appeared from Shunghee's conduct he was doing. I had also an unpleasant altercation with the Rev. John Butler about his son's house. He told me repeatedly he would leave the Mission; he would not remain in New Zealand to be annoyed as he was. There was no cause whatever for him to be angry, and I replied he was at liberty to leave the Mission when he thought proper. His son, in the first place, wanted an extravagant house building, far too large and expensive for a missionary. I had reduced the plan considerably, but still it appeared to me unnecessarily large. His son was hurt that I had made any alterations, and spoke in a very improper manner. I sent for the carpenter and gave him the plan of the house that I wished to have built at Tee, 28 and desired him to inform me when he would complete it; when it was done he was to hand over the key to Mr. Butler, and Mr. Samuel Butler was not to interfere with the building, but to attend to the duty which he was sent out to perform--the education of the children. At the same time I pointed out to the Rev. John Butler that his son had wholly neglected his duty since his arrival in New Zealand in having no school of any kind, which was very disgraceful to all concerned. 29

After I had expressed my sentiments to the Rev. J. Butler relative to his son's house and had shown him the plans, he left Kiddee Kiddee for Tee, where his son was, and informed him that I made some alterations in the plan of his house and reduced the dimensions. His son left the Tee and arrived in the evening at Kiddee Kiddee to remonstrate with me. I told him the carpenter had received orders to build a house at Tee containing four rooms--one for a kitchen, two bedrooms, and a dining room--which I considered large enough for any missionary with a small family; that he was not to interfere with the carpenter, and, when the house was completed, the key would be given to him if he was at that station. In the meantime he was to employ himself on a school immediately. Mr. Butler told me in the morning in his anger that if he was in his son's situation he would not stay in the Mission. I told him they might both retire when they wished to do so. In that unfortunate temper he went to Tee, and I learned he had gone afterwards on board the Dragon which lay about six miles distant. He has a very unhappy temper and cannot bear any control.

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In my last public letter addressed to the missionaries I cautioned all of them not to go on board any of the vessels in the harbour, for by so doing they would fall into snares and be tempted to drink and expose themselves to contempt and disgrace. This has been one of the principal evils that they have fallen into, and has led to many others. From Mr. Kendall's conduct this day I believe he has no intention to leave New Zealand. It will not be safe to leave the Rev. J. Butler and him in the island. I must take one at least with me, and it would be well for the Mission if both were removed. How difficult it is to know how to act! However, I must not hesitate. If I cannot persuade Mr. Kendall, who is now out of the Mission, to leave New Zealand, I must compel Mr. Butler, who is still a servant of the Society's, to accompany me, and this will be a painful duty.

Tuesday, October 28th.--This morning I accompanied Captain Moore on board the Dragon, when we made a final agreement with Captain Walker for his vessel to convey us to Port Jackson. I agreed to pay Captain Walker for my share of the freight 1,200 dollars and Captain Moore 1,600. I was much concerned to learn that the Rev. Mr. Butler had been on board the preceding evening in a state of inebriety. What insurmountable difficulties has this Mission to contend with! How awful is the consideration that the two clergymen who ought to have been the stay and the strength of the Mission should be the principals in transgression. When I consider the errors and the crimes of which the missionaries have been guilty, I am astonished that it has existed so long. I am convinced if it had been possible for men or devils to have overturned the Mission it would have been at an end long ago. I admire the forbearance and patience of the natives on many occasions. In many instances they are an example both in word and deed to the missionaries. God will bless this Mission in the end, and, by some means or other, make the wickedness of man to promote His glory. He will find men after His own heart, in due time, to carry on His work, and these heathen shall praise Him. After leaving the Dragon I proceeded to Pyhea and remained all night with the Rev. H. Williams.

Wednesday, October 29th.--This morning I requested the Rev. H. Williams to accompany me to Mr. Kendall, as I had some accounts to settle with him on account of the Society. Being aware of his rude and violent conduct I did not think it prudent to go alone. We met him in the boat coming over the bay and returned with him to his house. I settled my business with him as far as related to the timber we had purchased, etc. At length he began to break out in the most violent manner and to cast severe reflections upon me and the Society. The Rev. Henry Williams attempted to point out the impropriety of his conduct and to pacify his mind. He soon became outrageous with Mr. Williams and extremely rude. While we were in conversation Messrs. Moore and Walker came in. I informed Mr. Kendall that I had provided a passage for him in the Dragon, expecting he would tell me when he would be ready to embark; but instead of this he continued to pour out his reproaches upon the Society for their injustice to him, and to reflect upon my conduct also. I made very little reply to all his bitter language. Mr. Williams reasoned with him a little, until Mr. Kendall

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jumped up in a rage and took his hat and walked out of the house using some strong language to Mr. Williams. I got up and told Mr. Williams we had better take our departure. No man in bedlam was ever more under the influence of insanity than Mr. Kendall appears to be under the influence of a wicked and satanical spirit. Captain Walker wished to know Mr. Kendall's intentions relative to his embarking, but I could not tell him for he would not inform me.

I am surrounded by very great and painful difficulties on every side. I can do nothing with Mr. Kendall, and what I shall do with the Rev. John Butler I cannot tell. His conduct must not be passed over unnoticed. I must call him to account for it and I am apprehensive he will not be able to justify himself, which will leave me no alternative but either to suspend him or dismiss him altogether. Either will be very painful. I also feel great anxiety lest I should be obliged to leave both the Rev. John Butler and Thomas Kendall in New Zealand. If Mr. Kendall puts his threat in execution and goes to live with Shunghee, his mind must be bent upon evil, and it is impossible to see what may be the consequences. I have experienced a thousand times more fear, anxiety, and vexation from the misconduct of the Europeans than from the whole of the natives put together. The natives as a body of heathens have behaved well, and have been much more kind to the missionaries than some of them have deserved. Mr. Kendall's family were left under their protection during his absence in England, and they were very attentive to it. There is nothing to prevent their civilization but the want of proper means--good and faithful missionaries. God will never bless that man whose heart is full of lust and pride and envy.

Thursday, October 30th.--It was my intention to have returned to Kiddee Kiddee to-day, but I could not on account of the stormy weather. I therefore spent the day with the Rev. Henry Williams. I am at a loss what to do with the Rev. John Butler. He cannot remain in the Mission unless he proves his innocence. I have ever been persuaded since he landed in New Zealand that he is a man totally unqualified for the work. His violent temper carries him beyond the bounds of decency, and not only endangers his own life but the lives of his colleagues. He never will alter his conduct. His habits have become fixed and cannot, humanly speaking, ever be eradicated. How happy shall I be to see the day when the missionaries have love like brethren and constrain the heathen to say, "See how these Christians love!" At present I hear little from the natives but complaints against the missionaries for their quarrels and disputes one with another. This has a very bad effect upon their minds and they repeatedly speak of it to me.

Friday, October 31st.--To-day I left Pyhea and returned to Kiddee Kiddee, when I communicated to the Rev. John Butler the information I had received relative to his conduct on board the brig Dragon. He denied the charge. I recommended him if guilty to retire quietly from the Mission. However, he demanded an investigation which I told him should be granted. From the whole of the circumstances, as related to me, I have no doubt of the extreme impropriety of his conduct. After much conversation with Mr. Butler upon various circumstances that had occurred, I informed him that he must leave New Zealand and return

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with me to New South Wales; that the difference between him and Mr. Kendall and some other circumstances that had taken place between him and the natives rendered his removal a matter of necessity. At length he expressed his conviction that it was necessary that he should remove for a time. I recommended also that his son should accompany him, as it would not be prudent to leave so young a man situated as he was with the natives. It was very painful to have recourse to such measures, and it required the utmost caution in carrying into execution what existing circumstances demanded to be done. The natives were all eye and all ear, watching every look and every motion. I sent for Shunghee and told him what I had resolved to do; that it was my intention to take Mr. Butler and his son with me to Port Jackson, and stated my reasons for doing so. Shunghee approves of my intention. He had expressed his displeasure at Mr. Butler's conduct before. Swearing is a capital offence in New Zealand, and Mr. Butler was accused of this sin. Shunghee had said he had heard him swear himself. As a chief's wife had told me previous to Shunghee's return from the war that Mr. Butler was guilty of swearing and that Shunghee was angry with him for it, as Shunghee mentioned after his return that he had heard him and it had made a very bad impression upon his mind, I concluded that Mr. Butler had been guilty of some unguarded expressions. From the whole of what Shunghee said, he would be glad of his removal. As Shunghee and Mr. Kendall were such warm friends, I was persuaded that it would be safe neither for Mr. Butler nor the other missionaries for him to remain.

It was now whispered amongst the natives that Mr. Butler was going. All wished to know the real cause. It was difficult to satisfy their enquiries. I had only one strong argument which they could understand to advance in favour of his going away, viz., that he was often angry, and that they did not like an angry man. I was afraid when Mr. Butler was angry that some of them would be angry and strike Mr. Butler and then there would be a fight, and that no missionary must fight. They admitted the force of this argument, as many of them had mentioned to me that Mr. Butler was, to use their own words, "too much fight." I have nothing to apprehend from any opposition the natives may show to his departure. There is nothing that they despise more than a passionate man. They are not accustomed to fight amongst themselves excepting in regular warfare, and they cannot bear an angry man. When I have told them that I intend to send them a missionary, they have immediately asked me what tempered man he was, and that if he was an angry, fighting man they would beg of me not to send him. If he was the same as some individual they would name for mildness of temper, they would request he might be sent.

I had much conversation with Mr. Butler upon the improprieties that had been committed ever since the first establishment of the Mission at Kiddee Kiddee, pointed out to him the serious errors in which he had fallen--how the instruction of the natives had been lost sight of, that no schools had been built while a very large and unnecessary building had been put up for him--and could not tell how he could account to the Society for these things. Mr. Butler admitted he had done wrong, but contended that he was now prepared to carry on the work

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with effect, and lamented that those adverse circumstances should occur at this particular time. I replied it was now impossible for him to stay. I could not leave him and Mr. Kendall in the Island together as they were both so violent. I told him what Shunghee said, and it could not be foreseen what might happen if he was not removed.

While we were talking in the garden two chiefs came in and wished to know if I was angry with Mr. Butler. They also mentioned that they had been told Shunghee had said Mr. Butler should not remain at Kiddee Kiddee. We enquired from whom they had received their information and they immediately told us, from which Mr. Butler was convinced what impression had been made upon Shunghee's mind in his last interview with Mr. Kendall. Mr. Kendall, when he was at Kiddee Kiddee on the 4th ultimo, told me he would bring his family up to the settlement and fix them in sight of the Society's store, where they should remain until they starved to death. This declaration showed the desperate state of his mind and how he is governed by unsubdued passions. After many arguments, Mr. Butler saw that if Mr. Kendall came to Kiddee Kiddee he could not remain. Mr. Butler was greatly agitated; he had many painful reflections, and the charge of late inebriety to answer for as I told him it was impossible for me to look over such a charge without an investigation without committing myself and the interest of the Mission. I recommended him to weigh well the charge and the probability of his conviction before he attempted to justify his conduct.

Saturday, November 1st, 1823.--I left Kiddee Kiddee this morning with the Rev. John Butler and Mrs. Leigh, and proceeded on board the Dragon in order to see what accommodations could be provided for him and his family, as I had fully determined that he should be removed from New Zealand. Mr. Butler was very unhappy; he could not but see the great impropriety in his conduct as the head of the Mission. It was his duty to have been an example to all the other missionaries of meekness, of wisdom, and of godliness. He should, as their shepherd, have watched over them with pious care and conciliated their minds by well-timed attentions. On the contrary, the missionaries had no respect for him; he had been violent and very headstrong, which had destroyed all that esteem which they ought to have had for their minister. This was a misfortune much to be lamented. I was fully convinced that the wounds would never be healed in the minds of his colleagues. The natives also were very much dissatisfied with his violent temper, which he could not control, and complained to me on this account. The most rooted hatred appeared to exist between the Rev. T. Kendall and him. I was very apprehensive that if Mr. Kendall went to live at Kiddee Kiddee the differences between them might occasion some very serious quarrels amongst the natives, and might cause some of them to be cut off. From all the existing circumstances, as Mr. Kendall would not leave New Zealand, there was no alternative but to take the Rev. Mr. Butler with me, and I therefore told him plainly he must retire to Port Jackson. After leaving the brig Dragon, Mrs. Leigh accompanied me to Pyhea on a visit to Mrs. Williams who expected to be confined every day. We arrived in the evening, where we were welcomed by the Rev. H. Williams and his lady. I had only left them the day before, under

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a promise to return immediately I had arranged the plan for the Rev. J. Butler to quit. The situation of Mr. Williams' station is most beautiful, and the natives very well behaved. They are as quiet and feel themselves as secure as if they were in any part of England. I have no doubt but they will be blessed in their work.

Sunday, November 2nd.--I spent this Sabbath with comfort at Pyhea, where I preached and administered the sacrament, and christened a little boy born here since we arrived belonging to the carpenter, Mr. Fairburn. Our congregation of Europeans was but small, only eleven besides natives, yet we found it good to wait upon the Lord. I always feel comfortable at Pyhea. A church I hope will be raised here against which the gates of Hell will never prevail.

Monday, November 3rd.--This morning I purposed to visit Kiddee Kiddee to arrange with the missionaries for making the enquiry into the charge against the Rev. John Butler. I had to wait until Mr. Moore came to Mootooroa (Moturoa) with the boat. He arrived about ten o'clock. From Pyhea we went on board the Dragon, where I unexpectedly met the Revs. Kendall and Butler with Mr. King. Mr. Kendall was very distant. There were on board two of the brothers of the young woman with whom Mr. Kendall had cohabited. One of them appeared very indignant and angry with me. I asked him how he did; he turned with savage disdain from me. I knew the cause of his displeasure. It wholly originated from my discountenance of the conduct of the Rev. Thomas Kendall, who was present. Riva, another chief from Kiddee Kiddee, who had accompanied the Rev. John Butler, a man of high rank and influence, wished to know the reason why I had ordered Mr. Butler to leave New Zealand and asked me if Shunghee had been saying anything to me against Mr. Butler. I clearly saw that Mr. Butler had been very imprudently working upon this chief's mind, as he spoke to me with some degree of warmth. I told him Mr. Butler was too violent in his temper to remain at New Zealand; reminded him how he had complained to me of him for striking one of the natives and had expressed his displeasure, and further told him that no missionary who struck a New Zealander should remain in the country--that the natives were not to strike the missionaries nor the missionaries the natives, and, in either case, the Europeans should not live in New Zealand. At length he was perfectly satisfied and approved of this plan, and made no objection to the removal of Mr. Butler. I avoided relating to him what Shunghee had said to me on the subject, as I thought it more prudent for Shunghee to explain his sentiments himself to prevent any misunderstanding between Riva and Shunghee. I could not but consider it a very extraordinary circumstance that the two clergymen should appear to be the only persons who attempted to prejudice the minds of the chiefs against me, from no other cause than my public duty requiring me to express my disapprobation of their conduct. How dangerous are men who have fallen from their steadfastness!

After arranging the berths for Mr. Butler and his son and fixing the time for the enquiry into the charge made against him, I returned to Pyhea and took up my lodgings with the Rev. H. Williams, having settled the business on board which induced me to visit Kiddee Kiddee. I purpose to remain here until Thursday, when the investigation will

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take place at this settlement. I am persuaded Mr. Butler will find great difficulty in vindicating his conduct and in wiping off the stain that has been cast upon his character.

Tuesday, November 4th.--To-day a whaler arrived in the Bay from England having had a four months' passage. It was very gratifying to see a ship from Europe. I sent on board for a few newspapers, but the servant returned without them in consequence of those in command on board being intoxicated.

Wednesday, November 5th.--I wished much to see the public papers and this morning went on board, but found some difficulty in getting any from the master, he seemed to be so much given up to drunkenness. I could gain little information from him.

Thursday, November 6th.--This was a very uncomfortable day. The committee met to investigate the Rev. John Butler's conduct. It was a painful reflection to me to see a man in the character of a minister of the Gospel put himself in the power of those who knew not God. I was in hopes Mr. Butler would not have exposed himself by having an investigation, as he had no prospect but of disgrace by doing this. After the enquiry had closed, before the proceedings had been laid before me, he demanded to know the result. I could not tell him, as I did not know. He was very much agitated and enquired first of one member and then of another. When he was informed that he was not acquitted his anger became very hot. He insisted upon a further investigation, though he had had every opportunity afforded him to justify his conduct that his colleagues could give him. The Rev. Henry Williams applied to me to know what was to be done as they had closed their proceedings, Mr. Butler having declined to bring forward any further evidences in his defence. I replied that though it would not be regular in a court of law for an accused person, after judgment had been given against him, to call upon the court to examine further evidence, yet, as Mr. Butler was so urgent, I saw no serious objection to the committee sitting again in order to meet Mr. Butler's wishes. I was fully persuaded he could never make his case better and he might make it much worse, and would do so if other evidence were called against him. However, the committee sat again, when a man who had been lately a convict was examined. How degrading to the sacred character to be obliged to call for the testimony of such a man to vindicate his reputation!

When the whole of the proceedings were handed over to me, I saw Mr. Butler was in a very unfortunate state and such as I had warned him of before he ventured to call for an enquiry. I consider him a ruined man. God permits men to fall into sin and covers them with shame to humble their pride and to subdue their evil passions. Should Divine goodness bless this awful event to his soul he may become a new man. I hope Mr. Butler will be the last who will disgrace the Mission. There have been vast sums of money expended on, or by, the Rev. J. Butler, which have not as yet turned to much account. He has laboured hard in his own way, but unfortunately not for the honour and general good of the Mission. His conduct towards his colleagues has been very discouraging and distressing to them. His removal from New Zealand will be a great relief to the minds of those who are heartily engaged in the work.

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Friday, November 7th.--I left Pyhea for Kiddee Kiddee, with an intention to return the following morning in order to be ready to embark. On my arrival I found it would be necessary to settle many unpleasant circumstances that had occurred lately before I took my final leave of Kiddee Kiddee. Shunghee and all the chiefs, with most of the inhabitants, were gone to the River Gambier (Hokianga) in order to remove the bones of four of their relatives to the family sepulchre. This is a very great religious ceremony. The people assemble from all parts on such occasions. The funeral orations are spoken, when all the great deeds the deceased have done and the virtues they possessed are recited. If my time would have permitted I wished much to have seen the funerals. Shunghee's mother was one, his son-in-law (who had been killed in battle at the River Thames) was a second, others, a chief who had fallen in action at Tarranakkee and another great chief who had died a natural death at Gambier River.

Shunghee had a long conversation with Mr. Kemp before he went, about Mr. Kendall. He told Mr. Kemp that Mr. Kendall had purchased the Brampton's longboat for him to go to war with, and that Mr. Kendall intended to come to live at Kiddee Kiddee. Shunghee said we ought to pardon him now and supply him with what he wanted from the Society's stores, and if we did not he should be very angry, for Mr. Kendall was his friend and had done much for him. Mr. Kemp pointed out to Shunghee the impropriety of Mr. Kendall's conduct, which was the cause of our withdrawing support from him. Shunghee said we acted very differently from them, for, if one chief took another's wife, they had one fight and there was an end of it, but we continued our anger. Mr. Kemp wished to know how he was to act if Mr. Kendall made application for supplies. I directed that if he (Mr. Kemp) apprehended any evil consequences would follow from a refusal he was to comply with Mr. Kendall's application, if the stores would allow of his being supplied, on Mr. Kendall paying for the articles he obtained. Should Mr. Kendall refuse to pay for them and demand them as a right, and should Shunghee interfere, Mr. Kemp in that case would do right to let Mr. Kendall have them, and report to me and the Society at the first opportunity all the circumstances; at the same time he was to remonstrate with Mr. Kendall, and to inform Shunghee that if the missionaries could not remain in New Zealand quietly they would return to Port Jackson. 30

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Wooden and Whalebone Weapons.

The Maori generic name for weapons was rakau or patu, neither of which is convenient for present-day descriptive use. No. 1 is a tewhatewha beautifully made from akeake wood and decorated with a tassel of split hawk feathers. It was wielded with both hands, the blow being delivered with the back edge of the expansion, while the thrust with the point was delivered only in in-fighting. At about one-third of the length above the point a small double human face is carved, the point forming a protruding tongue. This feature is found in many Maori weapons and is most evident in the taiaha. The tewhatewha was often used to give the time to the paddlers in the war canoe. No. 2 is a patiti, a trader's tomahawk, hafted with wood. No. 3, a long-handled tomahawk, was called kakauroa. No. 4 is the upper part of a tokotoko or walking staff, used in emergency as a weapon. No. 5 is a beautifully carved handle of a toki poutangata, or man-killing adze, a weapon usually ceremonial but occasionally used in fighting. No. 6 is a taiaha, most notable of two-handed weapons. The richly-carved point represents a tongue protruded in defiance from a human face. Above the face is a circlet of scarlet kaka feathers surmounted by one of dog's hair tassels. This particular weapon was named Mahuta, and it was associated with the Kingite movement in the Waikato. Its possession signified that the chief holding it had authority to kill any European crossing the boundary of the King Country. It was presented to the Government by Wahanui in token of the establishment of peace, and was deposited in the Otago University Museum by the Hon. John Ballance, Native Minister, 1887. No. 7 is a pouwhenua of unusual length collected by George Vancouver during Cook's third voyage. Above the grip are carved two human heads each surmounted by a pair of feathers. No. 8 is a taiaha. No. 9 is a whalebone hoeroa, an orator's staff, occasionally used as a weapon. No. 10 is an ancient weapon resembling a pouwhenua, from the Piako swamp. The blade represents a very elongated human face with tongue protruded. No. 11 is an unusually large tewhatewha.

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

WEAPONS OF VARIOUS CLASSES
SCALE 1:10
OTAGO UNIVERSITY MUSEUM

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It is uncertain what Mr. Kendall will do in his state of mind, as he appears to have no control over his passions. At the same time I think Shunghee is too just a man to support any unfair demands which Mr. Kendall might make upon the stores. He feels great regard for Mr. Kendall and is under strong obligations to him for indulging his passion for war. But in all my conversations with him relative to Mr. Kendall's conduct, Shunghee always condemned his unlawful intercourse with the native women. On the commission of this crime I argued the necessity of Mr. Kendall's removal from New Zealand,, saying that he had violated our customs and laws and made our God angry. Shunghee would reply that he had put away the woman now and our anger should cease. I hold the removal of the Rev. John Butler and Mr. Cowell, with their families, from New Zealand will have a good effect upon the natives. It will convince them that missionaries must act properly or they will be dismissed and sent away.

Saturday, November 8th.--This morning I had a long conversation with the Rev. J. Butler on his own unhappy situation. I told him that, from what had passed, he could never return again to New Zealand, nor did I think he could remain in Port Jackson with any comfort to himself. I recommended him to return to Europe when an opportunity offered. The whole of his misconduct would soon spread through the Colony after our arrival, which would under his situation be painful. He replied he would preach there when he arrived if it was under an hedge, and no man should prevent him. I told him that perhaps he would alter his mind when he got there.

As there appeared to be the most rooted hatred in his mind against Mr. James Shepherd and many wicked and infamous reports circulated against this young man, and Mr. Butler having expressed himself to me in strong language, I told him I was determined to examine into the ground of those infamous reports before I went, in justice to Mr. Shepherd and to prevent anything from being said at Port Jackson to his prejudice after we arrived there if he was unjustly accused. Mr. Butler said he had no charge against him, and blamed Mr. Kendall for propagating them. I wished to know the reason, if he knew nothing against Mr. Shepherd, why he had said such evil things of him. As yet I had never hinted to Mr. Shepherd that anything had been said to me to the injury of his reputation, as I believed him to be a sterling character and wholly devoted to the work and that the true reason for charging him with crime was his devotedness to the Mission, his conduct being such a condemning contrast to that of others. I was aware that when we landed in New South Wales the same evil reports would be circulated there against Mr. Shepherd as were propagated here, which would greatly distress his pious father. I sent for Mr. Shepherd, informed him of what I had heard, and called upon him to vindicate his character, which he showed the greatest willingness to do. I sent for the Rev. John Butler and requested the Rev. Samuel Leigh to be present, who happened to be at Kiddee Kiddee, and as many of the missionaries as I could collect at the time.

The investigation ended much to the credit of Mr. Shepherd and not less to my satisfaction. It is impossible to conceive to what a painful height the evil of defamation had arisen amongst the missionaries,

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which had produced want of love, of confidence, and of every Christian feeling. It is melancholy to reflect that the greatest part of this scandalous conduct has originated with those who should have set a very different example to their colleagues. Mr. Butler was greatly agitated during this investigation, and his feelings wounded. I think if anything can be a warning to him--if anything can subdue his stubborn pride--it is what he has lately and is now suffering and will have to suffer before his mind recovers a state of quiet and peace. What a dreadful tormentor is a man's conscience when it is permitted to operate united with wounded pride and merited contempt! When men are bad themselves and guilty of open sins they will magnify the errors of others to the utmost. What a blessed grace is humility! How happy is the man who possesses it, who learns of Jesus to be meek and lowly in heart! May the Father of our Lord Jesus Christ give me an humble mind that I may at all times think others better than myself, and act with the meekness of wisdom at all times towards all men. I have never experienced more the want of wisdom and meekness than during the period I have been in New Zealand. I have met with many things to try me, many to cast me down, and many to provoke me to anger. I pray that all I have attempted to do may be attended with the Divine blessing. This whole day has been a very distressing one, but I hope that such evils will never afflict this Mission in future which have been examined into this day, but that some of them are cut up by the roots.

In the evening the chief George from Wangarooa came over to see me, and also Mr. Leigh, before we sailed. I am rejoiced to find that he is so attentive to the Wesleyan missionaries. He promised he would be kind to them when I went over to settle their concerns with him. That the man, who about fourteen years ago cut off the crew of the Boyd and became a terror to all Europeans, should soon be within the preaching of the Gospel, nay, that the missionary house should be built within sight of the very spot where the crew of the above ship were all eaten by these cannibals, is wonderful. George is now sitting by me; I told him I have mentioned his name. He begs me to say in writing that he will never injure any of the Europeans more. He has frequently expressed his sorrow for the event. God, no doubt, had some wise end to answer in permitting such an awful calamity to happen. The New Zealanders had previously suffered much from our countrymen. Justice in the common way could not overtake the guilty--the natives could not bring the murdered to punishment in any court of justice--and therefore the supreme Governor of the World let loose these ferocious cannibals upon this crew and they devoured them, and their bones now lie scattered upon the ground--an awful monument of Divine vengeance. I must now close this day's proceedings--it has been full of anxiety and very unpleasant feelings. I shall now lie down, weary and fatigued, under the protection of Him Who keepeth Israel. To-morrow is the Sabbath.

Sunday, November 9th.--I preached to-day at Kiddee Kiddee. The Revs. Butler, Leigh, and White attended. It was rather a gloomy day in a spiritual sense, arising in a great measure from the recent circumstances that had occurred. Mr. Butler was very low. He was sensible he had not acted correctly. It is a most painful duty to cut

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off one member from the body, especially a minister of the Gospel to the heathen. All human institutions are imperfect though under the direction of the wisest and best of men. Moses was greatly disappointed in the princes he selected to spy out the land of Canaan. Only two of the twelve gave him satisfaction--the other ten endeavoured to excite rebellion and mutiny in the congregation of Israel--and the only two faithful servants who gave a true report, all the congregation bade them stone them with stones. The same spirit is still in the world and will manifest itself when opportunity offers. We should not, therefore, think it strange we are disappointed in our hopes of men. Time will prove every man. If men are not on the Lord's side, they will fall off in the day of trial and yield to the lusts of their own hearts. Moses was much distressed when he found his hopes disappointed in those whom he had appointed to spy out the land. So will all good men be at the present day. But the bad conduct of the spies did not prevent the Israelites from taking possession of the land of Canaan. Neither shall the misconduct of missionaries prevent the final success of the Gospel amongst the heathen--it must prevail.

Monday, November 10th.--I took my leave this morning of Kiddee Kiddee. I have no doubt but a church will be raised there to the honour of the God of Israel. In time this will prove a great settlement. It possesses many local advantages, and is one of the best missionary stations I have met with for a principal settlement. Had I to select again I should fix upon this spot. I left it with feelings both pleasing and painful; pleasing as it respects the prospect of the Mission, and painful in being constrained to remove the Rev. John Butler after four years' residence. Samuel, the prophet, was directed to anoint Saul king over Israel, yet he did not do what was right in the sight of the Lord. At the same time he prepared the way for the man after God's own heart to fill the throne of Israel. God will still find men who will do His work faithfully when others who do not are removed.

The day was very stormy; we were compelled to put into the island of Mootooroa, as we could not reach the brig. In the evening I requested Captain Moore to convey me to Pyhea, distant about seven miles. The sea ran very high and broke awfully grand almost across the whole bay.

While I stopped at Mootooroa I endeavoured to purchase the island from the chiefs, as it is a most excellent station for a missionary, especially a medical man. It is situated in the middle of the Harbour, in the very centre of the other missionary stations. When I asked the chief to sell me the island, he said that, if I should give him axes, hoes, or spades, etc., for the island, all these articles would soon be bartered away for mats or canoes or any other thing, and then he and his tribe would be no better than they were then; but if I would send them a missionary to live upon the island he would give it to me for nothing, as a missionary would be a permanent advantage to them. The old chief made many more very judicious observations. I told him if it was in my power I would send them a missionary at some future time. A young man observed, "When you send us one, do not send us an angry, fighting man."

In the dusk of the evening I arrived safe at Pyhea, and in about an hour after my arrival Mrs. Williams was safely delivered of a little

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boy. 31 She had a very easy birth. The Lord is good and gracious, a present help in time of need, and never faileth those who put their trust in Him. Mrs. Williams is a woman of strong faith and sound piety and has no idea of fear, and on these accounts she is well suited for her present situation--happy and content at all times.

Tuesday, November 11th.--I have been busy this day in examining the public accounts and have also written my last public letter to the missionaries, as it is said the brig will sail to-morrow. I hope when we do sail we shall be more successful than we were in the Brampton. God has some wise ends to answer in the loss of that ship. Many changes have taken place since that event which I cannot doubt will turn out to the furtherance of the Gospel. When the Brampton was wrecked I had not seen Shunghee and many other chiefs; they had not returned from the war. Since then every necessary arrangement has been made with them to my satisfaction. I should have left the Rev. John Butler in the Mission, and I do not believe he would have altered his conduct, which might have ended in something very serious. Though I have spent a very anxious time in New Zealand, yet I leave it with full confidence that the Mission will prosper. I have no doubt but the removal of those who accompany me will be attended with the greatest good. When missionaries will not do their duty it is the wisest way to remove them at once. They weaken the hands of the rest that are faithful, continually throw difficulties in their way, and set a bad example to the heathen.

Wednesday, November 12th.--I spent this day, as the Dragon did not sail, in various arrangements with the Rev. Henry Williams for conducting the Mission. Messrs. William Hall and King came on a visit to Pyhea. I had a long conversation with them relative to the affairs of the Mission and their own past conduct. I contended that Mr. King ought before this period to have taught some of the native youths to have made a pair of shoes for the comfort of his colleagues and their families, as they had made many complaints to me for the want of shoes. They had neither anyone to mend them any shoes. Mr. Hall also ought to have taught some of the natives to do a little carpenter's work. We could not agree in our views. They have now begun a school, but I am afraid they will not do their duty faithfully. They have followed their own way too long, and despise all the orders that have been given to them by their superiors. I was so much vexed with Mr. King's observations that I wrote to him on the impropriety before I left New Zealand. When men once get wrong it is very difficult to persuade them that they are so--pride or avarice or obstinacy or some besetting sin opposes their return to the discharge of their duty.

Thursday, November 13th.--I went on board the Dragon, as we expected to sail; I was obliged to leave the chiefs behind that had embarked with me in the Brampton, as there was no room for them. Six native youths would not leave the Dragon. I told them there was no place for them, and therefore they could not go. They entreated to be allowed to lie upon the deck, saying that if we would give them this indulgence they wished no more, which was granted.

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Friday, November 14th.--At daylight we weighed anchor and stood out to sea; there was very little wind. Towards evening the breeze freshed a little and we stood for the North Cape.

Saturday, November 15th.--This morning the wind was against us; we were opposite Doubtful Bay and endeavoured by tacking to work round the North Cape, but gained little ground all the day.

Sunday, November 16th.--We found ourselves nearly in the same situation we were in last night, and tried all the day to weather the Cape but in vain. Towards evening it blew a strong gale and we were compelled to bear away to the northward and eastward, and from that time until our arrival at Port Jackson on Sunday, November 30th, we generally met with very stormy weather and a very high sea.

[Marsden's fourth journal ends here.]

The Rev. John Butler's MS. journal 32 gives further particulars of a voyage which must in all respects have been a most disagreeable one, since Marsden's disciplinary measures had, naturally, estranged him from the missionaries and their families who also complained, with much reason, of the roughness of their accommodation. "We had a very rough trip in the Dragon" Marsden puts it, "and our company was not very agreeable. I never took my breakfast or dinner or tea below during our passage, whether it was raining or not. I could not make up my mind to be in such company as were on board." 33

"Having got our trunks, etc., on board," Butler writes, "we embarked on board the Dragon on Thursday, November 13th, 1823. On Friday morning the vessel sailed, and on Sunday fortnight, about eight o'clock in the morning, we came to an anchor in Sydney Cove.

"I must now make a few remarks on what passed during our voyage:--Mrs. Butler, myself, and our little daughter had only our sofa widened by boxes for us all to rest upon during our voyage, and a bit of old canvas nailed up before us to keep us from the sight of all belonging to the cabin table, stewards, etc., etc. Where we sat to eat, there we were obliged to sit and dress and undress, etc. But even this Mrs. Butler and myself would not complain of for a moment were it not coupled with other things of a more serious nature.

"Captain Walker, as I have said before, is a man of reprobate character; he had on board a woman who personated his lawful wife, who is now living in Sydney. Mr. Marsden well knew this before he took up the vessel. He, therefore, never came to table during the voyage lest he should be defiled; nor did Mr. Leigh or Mrs. Leigh, as they had a cabin provided for them by Mr. Marsden. But where could the rest all go but to the cabin table, since we had no other place? This was a matter of great affliction to myself, but more especially to Mrs. Butler. But what could she do? She had no cabin, nor any place to sit down but on the table-bench, and my little daughter at death's door at the same time. But is this Christian feeling to bring us into such a place? Is this Christian kindness to those who have left their native land and friends? For what? To spend their strength in a savage land for the salvation of a race of cannibals!

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"I would wish the Society to remember that Mrs. Butler is not at present, blessed be God, company for (the pretended Mrs. Walker), although by Mr. Marsden's arrangements she was obliged to be so, as well as Mrs. Samuel Butler, for a season. It may be asked, what could Mr. Marsden do in this case? Why, he could almost effectually have prevented the evil by speaking to Captain Walker, but when I spoke to him on the subject he refused to take any part in the matter, saying, moreover, that he did not feel himself annoyed by it. And for why? Because Walker had served his turn in New Zealand.

"Rev. Mr. White felt himself so much annoyed the first few days that he withdrew from the table, got his food on deck, and never came to it again during the voyage. But as a man he could do what a woman could not do.

"My wife had a sick child to look after, and Mrs. Samuel Butler was ill herself during the whole voyage; and when the weather was fine, the vessel was so cumbered on deck with things belonging to the Brampton, and about a hundred souls besides, that it was almost impossible to get out of the way anywhere but by lying down in your berth. But this was not all; the most abominable and filthy conversation was continually going at table. Captain Moore used to come to table with his hat on; and because I would not drink with them at table they used to go on in a very disgusting manner about all the parsons, as they called them; but we never made any reply, as it could do no good but make them worse.

"One day, however, Moore, in giving a bone of mutton to the steward, said unto him: 'Here, take this devil to hell to one of my imps, and tell him to roast it and bring it back.' Mrs. Butler and my daughter had not been accustomed to hear such language, and were quite ashamed; and I felt so much indignation at it that I said to him: 'Captain Moore, if the Bible be true, as it certainly is, and there be a hell to be endured, without repentance, into that hell you will go and be tormented for ever and ever.' He made some frivolous reply, and then went on deck.

"In this manner we were living for sixteen days when the vessel let go her anchor in Sydney Cove. Mr. Marsden seemed in haste to get on shore, and I said to him: 'Sir, will you be so good as to give us some instructions what you would have us do?' He said: 'Do as you like; you know Sydney as well as I do.' But how could this be, as we knew but few folks in it? And, moreover, we considered ourselves as under Mr. Marsden's protection, and expected he would provide for us. But away he went, and we were left behind. A boat soon came for Mr. and Mrs. Leigh, and all the passengers left but Mrs. Butler and me and my little daughter. Mrs. Butler was so affected by this treatment and the thought of being left on board all day on Sunday in the company of Mrs. Walker, that she sat down and wept sore.

"On Monday he came on board and brought Rev. Richard Hill with him, and he thus began to address me: 'What do you mean to do?' I said: 'Sir, I do not understand the question, but we must get on shore somewhere before we can do anything.'

"'But," said he, "I want to know what you mean to do on shore?' 'Indeed, Sir,' said I, 'I cannot tell, but you seem to me to be forestalling things in general. I mean to act as a Christian ought to do, both toward myself and the Society to which I belong.'

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"'I wish to know,' said he, 'how you mean to act, as I shall then know what to do. I mean,' said he, 'to have the advice of all my friends and show these papers to the Governor.'

"'You are at liberty, Sir,' said I, 'to do as you please; I care not to whom you show them, only let me have an opportunity of facing them with such evidence as I shall bring, and then the falsehood will soon be manifest. I am in a British Colony now and shall have justice done me.'

"But Mr. Marsden has not brought me before his friends as he threatened, though I know he has had his lawyer's and Judge Field's 34 advice. And what is the reason? Why, because they are false."

Such were the unhappy circumstances under which the fourth voyage was completed.

Marsden forwarded his journal of the voyage to the Secretary of the Church Missionary Society on December 28th, 1823, along with various other documents bearing upon the work of the New Zealand Mission.

To the Secretary he wrote: "By this conveyance I forward to you my Journal and copies of various letters and other documents connected with the Mission. From my journal you will see the principal occurrences that took place daily while I was in New Zealand as I noted them down as they occurred. I have answered the queries proposed by the Society as fully as I am able from all the information I could receive.

"You will see from the various conversations I had with the chiefs that their views are very much enlarged, and the way is gradually preparing for the Gospel. A nation does not easily part with their gods, more especially their false gods. The New Zealanders are very much under the influence of the Prince of Darkness. He will not quietly give up his prey. Nothing has happened since the first establishment of the Mission to the present time but what might have been expected, especially from the natives. As Shunghee justly observed, 'We have made no new laws, we have established no new customs; we are only following the institutions of our forefathers, which we cannot as yet relinquish. Our forefathers ate human flesh and taught us to do so.' Many of their superstitions are giving way. Wars they will carry on, but I think the body of the chiefs have less inclination for it. Wycotto has only been once since his return from England, and he assured me he never intended to go again. He had resisted Shunghee's solicitations in his last expeditions. When the horrid acts of their cannibalism are stated to the Christian world, the causes should be stated at the same time which, according to their laws and customs, sanction these acts. We do not abhor their cannibalism more than they abhor our custom of hanging felons. They have often remonstrated with me on this custom. They think it is much better to kill a man with one blow then to hang him.

"We do not see the New Zealanders drinking and swearing and fighting and murdering one another, as is the case in civil society. I never saw a woman struck by a man in New Zealand, nor two men fighting together. Nor did I ever hear of a private murder unless theft,

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adultery, or some crime had been committed meriting that punishment according to their laws. Horrid deeds of cannibalism are committed, I readily admit, and human sacrifices are offered up by them. Yet these acts of ignorance and superstition only call more loudly for the aid of the Christian world to help them. Satan has them in sore bondage. Their miseries are great, both mental and bodily.

"In my journal I have stated everything as fairly and as justly as I could in order that the committee may form a just idea of the situation they are in. I think some things have been stated by the missionaries which does not give a just idea of their character, and I told the missionaries so. Persons forming their opinion of the New Zealanders from some detached statement which the missionaries may inconsiderately make, would be led to think that it would not be safe for Europeans to live amongst them. But this opinion would not be correct. Their conduct for nine years has proved that the Europeans have been safe in the midst of them. Their national religion, their laws and customs should be fairly weighed in forming a true estimate of their characters. If a battle is fought or if a woman or man hang themselves --which is common--or if a slave is killed, on enquiry the New Zealanders will always immediately tell you the cause. A chief's wife, whom I knew, hung herself when I was there this time in a fit of jealousy. Her husband for her sake determined to follow her example. Another chief's wife told me her husband had taken another wife and she would hang herself. I pointed out to her the sin of such an act. She contended that it was meritorious. Their attachments are strong, and the enemy takes advantage of their natural feelings to destroy them. They have no spiritual weapons to resist Satan with. They have no sword of the spirit, no shield of faith, no hope full of glory to support and comfort them in the hour of temptation. We cannot be astonished at any acts they do while under the sole dominion of the god of this world. They have no written laws, human or Divine, to govern themselves by; no courts of justice to appeal to. I am surprised not at the number and greatness of their public crimes but that they govern so well without laws. When the light of Divine revelation once shines upon them, it will be like the rising sun upon the benighted world. But we must wait until the Lord of Glory arrives and has mercy upon them, and continue to sow in hope. In the above light I view the New Zealanders."

The first of the documents forwarded by Marsden with this letter embodied his observations upon the practice of cannibalism among the Maoris.

"Agreeable to your request," he stated, "I have made every enquiry respecting the cannibalism of the New Zealanders, and beg to return the following answers to the queries proposed by your committee:--

"Question.--What acts of the New Zealanders eating human flesh have fallen under your own actual observations?

"Answer.--Some of the missionaries never saw them eat human flesh. Mr. Kendall never did, and I could not learn that any of the missionaries at Rangheehoo ever did. At Kiddee Kiddee, on Shunghee's return from war, some slaves were killed and eaten. The missionaries saw some human flesh dressed for eating.

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"Question.--On what occasion were those perpetrated?

"Answer.--As a sacrifice or satisfaction for the death of a relative or friend. The dead body is considered holy food, or holy sacrifice, and the persons who eat it are holy after a battle. The heads of the chiefs are cut off and laid by themselves, and, when this is done, the brains and the whole of the inside of the skull are taken out and prayers are offered up to their god and the funeral ode is sung. The very same ode, they believe, which the first man, Mowhee, sang over the dead body of his son. When the sacrifices are offered up at too great a distance for their friends to partake of them, the priests take some small splinters of wood and pass them through the flesh of the sacrifices and, when they return home, bring them with them; when they are put amongst the dressed food and afterwards drawn through the mouth of the priest in the presence of the chiefs who went to war, and prayers are offered up at the time, and then the splinters of wood are taken to their family sepulchre and deposited there. When the chief has eaten the sacrifice at a distance and returns home with the pieces of wood, he is considered unholy, having touched a dead body; but when the priest has received the pieces of wood from him and he has been sprinkled by the priest between the shoulders with water, he is cleansed from all his pollutions and admitted into the society of his friends again. It may here be remarked that every man who goes to war and kills and eats another is considered as having done the act of a god. When the chiefs return from battle and have any particular cause for rejoicing or mourning, they will kill a slave or slaves and eat them.

"Question.--By what circumstances were such acts accomplished?

"Answer.--I have heard of slaves being killed in cool blood as well as in moments of revengeful anger. One young woman was killed and eaten in cool blood when I was there at this time, near my lodgings.

"Question.--Is the cannibalism of the New Zealanders confined to their prisoners of war?

"Answer.--It is, excepting the offering up and eating those who are killed in battle.

"Question.--Is the killing and eating prisoners of war limited to any specific period after they are taken?

"Answer.--Prisoners of war are seldom killed but are kept as slaves, but they are liable to be killed by their masters at all times. With respect to the women and children, they generally save what they can of them.

"Question.--Is it a custom among the New Zealanders to kill and eat those who are convicted of thefts?

"Answer.--Thefts are of different kinds--common and sacred. Sacred thefts are often punished with death. I saw one young woman who was killed for sacred theft, such as breaking into the sweet potato houses when tabooed, or into the sepulchre of the dead to carry away the bones, or into any sacred ground, especially if the offender be a slave. If any of their own friends are guilty of theft they are liable to be punished some other way. The New Zealanders do not think that theft is a crime of that magnitude generally as to merit death.

"Question.--Is there any particular class of persons to whom the liability to be killed and eaten is confined?

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"Answer.--There is no class of persons that are liable to be killed and eaten in cool blood. There is always a reason assigned for such an act, which generally originates in superstition and very distinct from cannibalism, though the whole system of their religious ceremonies is interwoven with the eating of human flesh.

"Question.--Are there any restrictions with respect to age in persons who are killed and eaten by the New Zealanders?

"Answer.--Persons of all ages are liable to be killed in battle. Those who are or have been the greatest warriors are the most aimed at. I have not heard of any old persons or very young children being killed as sacrifices, but those who are grown up.

"Question.--Will you state such well authenticated facts relative to the practice of cannibalism by the New Zealanders as have been communicated to you by others, distinguishing those from such as you are acquainted with from your own knowledge?

"Answer.--I have had many conversations with the chiefs at the Bay of Islands, the River Thames, etc., respecting cannibalism. It is admitted by all as a fact and practised by all as a religious ceremony in their wars. Every chief when he falls in battle expects to be eaten, as it is their universal custom, but the New Zealanders have not been known to kill and eat one another privately without there had been some previous injury meriting the punishment according to their laws.

"Question.--What account do the natives give of the origin, object, and advantage of eating the flesh of their fellow creatures?

"Answer.--It appears to have originated from a belief that Mowheeboo (Maui-pu), the first cause of all, sacrificed his son and ate him. Their object is to satisfy their superstitious minds, to appease the deity and the names of their departed friends. It cannot, however, be doubted but that they gratify their appetites and revengeful feelings. At the same time this custom does not originate in this gratification but in superstition."

Along with this report Marsden forwarded to the Secretary, for his approval, a copy of the regulations which he had left with the missionaries at the Bay of Islands and which, he hoped, would end some of the abuses that had arisen among them. 35 He had framed these regulations in the following terms:--

THE REV. SAMUEL MARSDEN TO THE MISSIONARIES BELONGING TO THE CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY.

Bay of Islands,
November 14th, 1823.

In consequence of the dreadful evils originating from the intercourse that has been carried on for years between the missionaries and the various ships and vessels which have from time to time put into the harbours of the Bay of Islands, I feel it my imperious public duty, as Agent of the Church Missionary Society, to establish the following rules and regulations for the guidance of the body of missionaries, their servants, and the mechanics employed in the Mission, in order to prevent as much as possible the public scandal which has heretofore been cast upon the characters of the missionaries, and the great injury that has been done to the souls of the missionaries themselves and, by their

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unguarded and unthinking conduct, to the cause of the Gospel, through the above dangerous intercourse. It may not be improper, previous to the establishment of the proposed rules and regulations, to mention some of the reasons which urge me to adopt this measure.

1. The missionaries, by going on board of ships, they are tempted to traduce the good reputation of one another by speaking evil one of another to men of the most abandoned characters, who glory in hearing them bite and devour one another, and afterwards propagate every evil report against the missionaries in New South Wales and in every other part of the world they visit. This improper and, I may add, wicked conduct of the missionaries, gives just occasion for the enemies of the Gospel to blaspheme. The masters of ships will always feel a sweet pleasure in retailing every story to one missionary which another has told to his prejudice, by which every bond of brotherly love, kindness, and Christian forbearance are destroyed and deceit and guile and evil surmising are substituted in their stead.

2. It is a well-known fact that some of the missionaries in their intercourse with the ships have been tempted to drink too much, and in these moments their angry passions have been kindled and they have occasionally used improper language to one another before the masters of the ships to the great scandal of the Christian name and by which they forfeited all respect for their characters as missionaries.

3. This intercourse encourages a spirit of idleness and trifling, of petty barter and traffic, which excites the love of money, calls for the avarice into exercise, and turns the whole attention of the missionaries from their proper object, exposes them to a thousand other temptations, wounds their own conscience, and strikes at the root of every Christian principle, and greatly injures the minds of those who are conscious to be found faithful.

The above are some of the well-known evils that have originated from this intercourse, and every means must be adopted to prevent a repetition of them. It is hereby ordered and directed:--

1. That no missionary or missionary's servant or mechanic in the service of the Mission shall, directly or indirectly, carry on any private trade or traffic; or purchase any articles from masters of ships without the knowledge and consent of the existing committee to whom is entrusted the local management of the concerns of the Society.

2. Should circumstances render it necessary, for the comfort or convenience of the body or for that of any individual or individuals employed in the service of the Mission, to make purchases from the ships which may anchor in the Bay of Islands, the articles so required shall be stated to the committee and the sanction of the committee first be obtained; and two members from the committee shall be appointed to transact the business with the masters of the ships. If this rule is attended to, it will remove all jealousy from the minds of some, and all suspicions and reflections from others.

3. No timber of any kind, either in plank or log, is to be hereafter supplied to any ship or vessel by any missionary or other person in the service of the Society without the full consent of the committee, and the proceeds of all such timber shall be carried to the credit of the Society.

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Should any of the missionaries directly or indirectly violate any of the above regulations, their colleagues are solemnly enjoined to report such violation to the Society's agent in New South Wales and to the parent committee in London, in order that such missionaries may be punished by suspension or dismission as the nature of their offence may require.

4. It is further ordered that all transactions with ships which the missionaries shall have, either as a body or as individuals, shall be recorded in a book kept for that purpose as a public record, in order that the missionaries may at all times be able to justify their conduct to their superiors and to stop the mouths of gainsayers.

The above regulations to remain in force until the parent committee shall rescind them. 36

SAMUEL MARSDEN,
Agent to the Church Missionary Society.

The case of the Rev. John Butler which had arisen out of the fourth voyage was not settled, so far as Marsden was concerned, till the beginning of 1824, when he received from the Secretary a letter approving of his conduct of all matters relating to the New Zealand Mission and thereupon suspended Butler from the service of the Society. Writing to the Rev. Josiah Pratt from Parramatta on January 13th, 1824, he said:--

"I have this day suspended the Rev. J. Butler from all connection with the Church Missionary Society until the pleasure of the committee is known at Home. It was my intention to have sent him to England, if I could have prevailed upon him to have gone, as I did not know what step to take with him excepting this. When I received your letters on the 10th inst. I was much relieved. I then saw my way clear. I had an interview with Mr. Butler this morning after I had written my letter to suspend him, a copy of which I have forwarded to you.

"I have determined upon purchasing a small estate immediately, about thirty-four miles from Port Jackson, in the interior. On this I shall establish the seminary for the general instruction of the New Zealanders and in which also the children of the missionaries may be maintained and educated together. I have no doubt but the allowance granted for the support and education of the missionaries' children will be sufficient to meet all the expenses. Judge Field will explain all my views on this subject.

"If I had not suspended Mr. Butler I could not have had sufficient control over him, and, in this colony where his improper conduct is so well known, it would have been a disgrace to the Society to have

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continued him in the service of the Society as a clergyman and missionary. I informed Mr. Butler he could not officiate as a clergyman in these settlements under his present disgrace. I further informed him that, as he was now suspended from all connection with the Society, he was at liberty to act as he thought proper until his case was laid before the parent committee; and that I would hire him myself, if he would quietly retire into the interior, and put the New Zealanders under his care. He consented to my terms. Mr. Butler will make a good servant, I believe, but he will never make a master. I have little doubt but I shall now be able to keep him in due subjection and induce him to live retired from the world. Here he will have time to reflect, to mourn over his past errors, and to become a useful man. I do not think that anything but such a severe measure as this would have in any degree subdued his stubborn mind. On my arrival in New Zealand I saw the necessity of his removal, as well as that of his son, but I said nothing on the subject at that time. My wish was to get Kendall and Cowell away first. I could not take them all. I purposed to remove Mr. Butler at a future period as I despaired of his altering his conduct there.

"The day Mr. Kendall refused to embark in the Dragon, after I had taken his passage and we expected to sail in two or three days, I then told Mr. Butler and his son that they must embark with me to Port Jackson--that I could not leave them and Mr. Kendall together in the Island. Mr. Butler expressed his astonishment. I now told him I expected letters out from England that would seriously affect his son, and I could not allow him to remain behind. Mr. Butler saw there was no alternative but to obey. With many contending passions and tears he consented. The discharge of this duty was a most painful and distressing task to me. Considering his family, his situation as a clergyman and missionary, his connection with the Church Missionary Society, the public disgrace brought upon him and the Mission--all these things together made me very uneasy. I am now perfectly satisfied with all that has taken place. In the ungovernable state of mind Mr. Butler was in, I considered his removal more necessary in many respects than Mr. Kendall's. Mr. Butler had power and means: Mr. Kendall had no power in the Mission. God will overrule all for good in the end.

"From pride, passion, and vexation, Mr. Butler has not known what to do since his arrival in New South Wales. He has joined with Mr. Cowell and others against me. He has threatened to prosecute me for bringing him away or for other reasons. He has consulted the lawyers on various points. He has wished to bring the two masters of ships who accused him of inebriety before a court of justice for defamation. I advised him to be quiet, but in vain. I mention these things to convince you that nothing less than sending him Home or suspending him could bring him to reason. This has had the effect. He is now quiet and willing to go where I wish and to do what I wish, if I will take him into my service on my own terms. All our differences are now settled, and I hope he will go on well in a retired situation. He has died very hard, and I believe his heart has been ready to break many a time. Such is the pain which the dominion of passions creates in the human breast.

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"I may here remark that the last year has been a year of toils, dangers, and anxieties both by sea and land, at home and abroad, continual fighting without and fears within. In the beginning of the year I spent nearly three months in Van Diemen's Land, where I travelled across the island from sea to sea--160 miles--and in different directions through the land. We met with storms at sea both going and returning. I had many vexations when at home from the magistrates at Parramatta. I was brought before the Bench, convicted without information or evidence, fined, and an execution put into my house and my property sold to the amount of the fine, merely to degrade me. Though these are matters of trifling importance, yet they serve to vex and annoy. They are amongst all the things which work for the Christian good. The magistrates convicted me of a flagrant breach of the Colonial Regulations, when I had done no wrong and violated no regulation. I appealed to Caesar and obtained redress. 37

"As Judge Field 38 can tell you, I was absent twenty weeks on my voyage to New Zealand. Here I had both pleasure and pain, as my journal will show. I am not a little surprised that my strength should be equal to my day. I have gone through so much fatigue of body and anxiety of mind and am still alive and well. God is still good to Israel. His care over me has been very great. I was weak and weary when I embarked for New Zealand, but returned strong and healthy. I may say with the Psalmist, ' Of Judgments and of Mercies unto thee O Lord will I sing.'" 39 (Psalm ci, I.)

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APPENDIX TO THE FOURTH JOURNAL

THE CASE OF THE REV. THOMAS KENDALL 40

Kendall, when first accused of misconduct, had found his chief excuse in the temptations to which he was exposed by his environment. "He means to say in plain language, according to my opinion of what he has stated," wrote Marsden to the Secretary from Parramatta on April 19th, 1823, "that by prying into the obscure mysteries of the natives in order to ascertain their notions of the Supreme Being, etc., his own mind was polluted, his natural corruptions excited, and his vile passions inflamed, by which means he fell into their vices." With regard to this Marsden comments: "Whatever defiling effect may have been produced upon Mr. Kendall's mind by his examination into the obscene notions entertained by the natives of the Supreme Being and their own lascivious customs, I am of opinion that whenever we come to the true knowledge of the character of the New Zealanders they will not be found much worse than the ancient heathen mentioned by St. Paul in the first chapter of Romans who 'changed the glory of the uncorruptible God into an image like to corruptible man and to birds and fourfooted beasts and creeping things.' 41 After his dismissal, however, Kendall frequently acknowledged that the Society had dealt justly

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and that he had forfeited his place through his own folly. Thus on August 15th, 1823, he wrote to Marsden from Missionary House, Paternoster Valley (Matahui), saying: "I have long since made an open confession of my sins before God and have magnified them before men, regarding as I have done the public situation which I held in this Mission, and my duty to God and the Society.

"I have been free and open in the acknowledgment of them not only on my own account, but on account of some others, who are, or have been, united with the Mission and have fallen into gross sins of the same or of a different nature, and who, I hope, have repented with me."

Kendall ultimately left New Zealand in the beginning of 1825, sailing with his family for Valparaiso in the St. Patrick. 42 He remained there until June, 1827, when he took passage for Sydney in the Elizabeth. While on board that ship he had a circular letter printed under date July 29th, 1827, which he despatched to his various friends. In this letter he gave some account of his experiences after leaving New Zealand. "In the beginning of the year 1825," he wrote, "I removed with my family from the Bay of Islands to Valparaiso for the purpose of paying that attention to my children which was really necessary and which I could not give them in New Zealand, and of recruiting my worn down spirits.

"On my arrival in Chili, I immediately received every attention from C. R. Nugent, Esq., the British Consul General, and his amiable lady, and I continued to do duty under his sanction as a clergyman and schoolmaster for two years, and until such time as I felt on the one hand my spirits much refreshed by my intercourse with civil society and, on the other, that there was in Valparaiso very little prospect of my becoming essentially useful amongst my countrymen, the greatest part of whom were young men and their continuance there very uncertain. One thing I had seen accomplished, namely, a burying-ground set apart, and surrounded with walls, for the reception of the remains of Protestants, a thing which had been hitherto sadly neglected, and in that ground I had prayed over forty-seven persons, who had been decently interred, and amongst whom I could number a few friends who had rendered me their kind and disinterested services during the short time I knew them. But a churchyard, without any prospect of a church, is no very agreeable thing to a clergyman.

"Towards the latter end of my two years' residence in Valparaiso, I began to experience the ill effects of an enervating climate; and my kind friend Mrs. Nugent not only became unsettled and discouraged on account of the unsuitableness of the situation for her young family but she also experienced some very heavy losses. By one post she received the afflicting intelligence of the death of her grandmother and her most affectionate mother in England, and a little time after this she also lost her youngest female child--a pretty little creature-- whom I had the honour of baptizing and, within eleven months after her birth, the pain of committing to the grave.

"After this afflicting circumstance took place, Mrs. Nugent intimated to me her intention of proceeding to England with her children, whose private tutor I had been, in His Majesty's frigate the Blanche. About the time this was in contemplation I received letters from my

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friend the Rev. Basil Woodd and the Secretary of the Church Missionary Society. The Elizabeth of Sydney also returned from Lima to Valparaiso, and I learned that she was about to return by the way of the Society Islands to New South Wales. One clause in my friend's letter had very much affected me and, although I had only just been raised by the tender mercy of God, Whose most unworthy servant I am, from the brink of eternity after a severe and dangerous attack of dysentery, yet, being desirous to follow the apparent leadings of Divine Providence, I thought it my duty to take a passage for myself and family in the said vessel, and to commit myself and mine to His protection, with a view of visiting at least once more such spots as were sacred to Christian missions and of seeing again my eldest daughter whom I had left behind me. The British and United States Consuls and foreign residents rendered me every assistance I desired on my departure; and it is but just to express my gratitude for those marks of respect and attention which they have shown me on all occasions during my residence among them. Mrs. Nugent and her children embarked on board the Blanche at the same time as I was preparing to take my departure in the Elizabeth."

The Elizabeth called at Tahiti and various other islands of the Society group in the course of her voyage, Kendall's impression from his observation of mission work there being that the facilities for missionary work were much greater in the Society Islands than in New Zealand. "The natives," he wrote, "are much milder in their natural dispositions and are not attached to such horrid customs as the New Zealanders are; and houses and churches can be built with ease in these Islands while at New Zealand they are obtained with difficulty and expense."

He was still occupied with his literary work. "My leisure time of late," he wrote, "has been occupied in preparing a new edition of my New Zealand Grammar, and two other books of elementary instruction in the same language, ready for the press; these I intend to have printed, if possible, on my arrival in New South Wales. Whether these productions may prove useful or not it is not for me to determine, but they certainly are the result of the strongest effort of my best wishes and best abilities.

"Mrs. Kendall and my children, I am happy to state, were never happier than they are now, nor did they ever enjoy a better state of health than during this passage; my boys are at school every day; they, with two little children of Captain Powditch's, 43 form a healthful group, being equally industrious at play and at the table. My son Basil 44 I have left with my friend Commodore Wooster in Chili."

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Upon his arrival in Sydney, Kendall, on October 10th, 1827, wrote to the Secretary of the Church Missionary Society in words which showed how much his mind still turned to New Zealand and how enthusiastic he had remained for his work upon the Maori language. "Since my arrival here," he wrote, "I have had an interview with Mr. Marsden and have shown him my second edition of the New Zealand Grammar in manuscript, but he appears to be afraid of committing it or any of my labours to the press lest by so doing the missionaries who are now at New Zealand should be discouraged. I could wish very much to know what I am to do with them. It really would afford me the sincerest pleasure to make myself useful by contributing to the benefit of the New Zealanders in any way, and I do assure you I wish to offend no one. I have made the New Zealand language my delightful study during the whole of the past fourteen years, and cannot give it up. I perceive the missionaries in their late publication have discarded the consonants b, d, f, j, l, s, v, y, and z. I could wish to be favoured with Professor Lee's candid opinion as to the propriety of discarding these consonants which would be so useful in transcribing all foreign names, especially Scripture names. If Professor Lee should coincide with the missionaries I will discard them also, but I cannot consent to do it until I hear from him. It has been acknowledged by all that the Grammar which was published seven years ago has been very useful. I should hope that the present one, which has been improved and corrected throughout, will also be useful, having seven years' experience in addition to the seven preceding ones."

Unfortunately Kendall, probably through lack of the necessary means, was unable to print more than a few pages of the second edition of the Maori Grammar which embodied the results of his long period of study. These pages were published in October, 1827, prefaced by the following advertisement:--"The Church Missionary Society having signified their pleasure to receive from me any 'works that I may have prepared, calculated to promote the real good of the New Zealanders,' I have thought it my duty to commit the following work to the Press, in order to assist them in promoting their benevolent plans for the instruction of that uncivilized but interesting race of human beings. It is the production of fourteen years' incessant study, and, however defective it may be, it is certainly the result of my best wishes and best abilities." 45

There is no doubt that the tragedy of Kendall's life affected Marsden deeply. "I see him occasionally," he wrote to Mr. Dandeson Coates of the Church Missionary Society on April 24th, 1829, "though he lives

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a long way to the southward at Bateman's Bay. I saw him very lately. We had the subject of his conduct in New Zealand under our notice. He regretted his misconduct very much, expressed his gratitude to me for my long forbearance with him, and acknowledging that what I had done in having him removed from the Mission I had done from necessity. His own conduct compelled me to it. He seems to reflect seriously, now that he is removed from the scene of his temptation and awful fall. The Government have been very kind to him in giving him a valuable grant of land upon which he will be able to provide for his family. His circumstances are good. God in His infinite mercy may restore him to His favour, but the sword will never depart from his house. His peace of mind can never be restored. The very reflection of what is passed will always wound him and give him pain. I shall assist him when opportunity offers, as a private individual, in his little temporal affairs, but further I cannot go. I mean to admit him to do any clerical duty for me. Mr. Kendall spoke to the Archdeacon relative to his being a clergyman, and offered his services. The Archdeacon mentioned the subject to me, and I told him I could not admit him to do any duty for me in my church in consequence of my former connection with him. If he thought proper to allow him to do any surplice duty in the district where Mr. Kendall resided at the southward, he could do so. I believe the Archdeacon has sanctioned his burying, etc., where he resides."

On December 15th, 1829, he again wrote to Mr. Coates with regard to Kendall and his affairs. "The Rev. Thomas Kendall," he stated, "called upon me again yesterday to settle a claim which he states that he has upon the Church Missionary Society for £120, being for one year's salary from October 1st, 1820, to October 1st, 1821.

"He further states that when he was in London he drew a cheque upon the Society for the above amount, with the knowledge of the Rev. J. Pratt and the Rev. Basil Woodd, which cheque he left with Mr. Mortlock and which has not been honoured. At the time he drew the cheque, admitting that his statement is correct, that sum could not be due to him until 1821, in the month of October of that year. I apprehend there must be some mistake in this matter, but as it did not come under my observations I am unable to rectify it and therefore declined to do more than to forward his statement to you. When I, by the instructions I received, finally settled all accounts with him as far as I had any concerns, I promised to examine my accounts and see if I could throw any light upon the subject.

"I regret to say Mr. Kendall is a very unhappy man. His fall has been awful, and the consequence of it will bring him with sorrow to the grave. He is a man without strength. His mind is well informed about the doctrines of the Gospel. He feels his lost, degraded state, but he appears as if God had departed from him and left him without any power to withstand his propensity to self-indulgence, and, at the

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same time, he appears to suffer the severest stings of conscience from the painful reflections upon his own great transgressions. I cannot conceive a man to be in a more pitiable condition than he is in. The justice of St. Peter's observation is most strongly verified in him. It is better for men 'not to have known the way of righteousness, than, after they have known it, to turn from the holy commandment delivered unto them.'" (II Peter ii, 21.)

"In truth I do not know a convict in the Colony who appears so oppressed with the load of guilt as Mr. Kendall, without that consoling and sweet humble feeling which true godly sorrow always inspires. When I talk to him his hope of relief seems at a great distance. I pity his case much. I think he has no prospect of comfort in this life. God may in the end, in infinite mercy to his soul, deliver him from death, but he is likely to bear the chastisement of his sins to the end of his days.

"Many missionaries in this Colony have been the most awful examples of Divine displeasure when they have acted unworthy of their holy character. Some of them have come to the grave under the most awful judgments. What has happened to others with whom I have been intimately acquainted I am fearful will happen to Mr. Kendall. I hope for the contrary, but I cannot help my fears. When a missionary falls into any public scandal, Sir, either through powerful temptation or the dominion of sin, he should be removed immediately from his station. On no consideration should he be allowed to remain on the ground where he has fallen. Drunkenness and whoredom are the two sins to which the unguarded missionary is most exposed, and particularly the latter sin amongst heathens. Perhaps it may not be very proper in me to mention these things to you, but my mind has been naturally led to do this from what I have seen and known and the dreadful effects produced by them on the future usefulness and happiness of a missionary, as I consider them both at an end. I believe few missionaries are sufficiently aware of their danger until it is too late, those especially among savage nations. When a missionary falls his fall is dreadful. If he once offend his God in the way I am speaking of, the sword will never depart from his house. Sin is as abominable to God now as it was in David's time."

The grant of land to which Marsden refers had been allotted to Kendall by Governor Darling in recognition of his services in New Zealand. It consisted of 1,280 acres situated in Ulladulla, a district in the south of New South Wales celebrated for its beauty, which had just been opened up for settlement. Much fine timber, and especially cedar, grew in the district, and Kendall and his sons engaged in the timber trade. He bought a small vessel, of which he himself apparently was skipper. His habits, however, were unsteady, and his last years were ruined by that over-indulgence in drink which likewise cursed the lives of his gifted but unstable descendants--Basil Kendall, his son, and Henry Clarence Kendall, his brilliant and unfortunate grandson.

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The end which Marsden had feared came with tragic swiftness. Kendall's vessel was caught in a storm when off Port Jackson Heads and was driven ashore near the entrance to the Shoalhaven River, with the loss of all on board. On September 10th, 1832, Marsden wrote to Mr. Coates his last note with regard to the unfortunate man whose career had been so strangely interwoven with his own. "The Rev. Thomas Kendall," runs the postscript to a letter, "came to an awful death lately. He and the boat's crew were drowned. None of their bodies have been found. He was very much given to indulge in spirits."

A LETTER OF ADMONITION

[The Revd. Samuel Marsden to the Missionaries]

PYHEA (PAIHIA), November 11th, 1823.

DEAR SIRS,

Previous to my embarking a second time, I wish to address a few lines to you. When the Brampton was wrecked, clouds and darkness surrounded that dispensation. I felt a painful foreboding that something of importance would take place relative to the Mission before I left New Zealand and that my work was not done, and so it has come to pass. Many circumstances have occurred that have rendered the period from the wreck of the Brampton to the present time very distressing. You have seen judgment begin at the house of God. You have seen two of your colleagues, men appointed to minister in holy things, fall into the snares of the devil and now left to suffer the reproaches of their own consciences, the stings of wounded pride, the degradation which always attends the loss of rank and character, and a thousand mortifications that they have not as yet taken into their account. Pride and stubbornness and rebellion have ruined them and have almost been the ruin of the Mission, and what distress of mind have they occasioned to all concerned in the work. I may also add the afflictions they have brought upon their families. I do most sincerely pray that these dreadful examples will be a warning to all who remain in the Mission, and that every one that has despised the authority of their superiors will not venture to proceed any further in their own way. What has happened to your colleagues may and will happen to you if you do not avoid the evils that others have fallen into. .

If the fall and punishments of Messrs. Butler and Kendall does not induce you who remain in the Mission to do your duty, nothing ever will. The sooner those leave the Mission who will not obey them who have the rule over them, the better it will be for the Mission and the poor heathens. The missionaries should recollect that they are not to say to the Society what they will do and what they will not do, but to follow the directions they receive in all things as far as local circumstances will permit. Let each consider what were their original engagements with the Society-- what they promised to do. I am aware that you who first entered this land of darkness and engaged in this arduous work had many trying difficulties to contend with and are subject to many fears. But your difficulties, privations, and dangers have not been equal to what you might reasonably have looked for in a savage nation. Your dangers, your troubles, and your vexations have principally originated from yourselves, from an unhumbled, insubordinate, and jealous spirit. The natives have been kind to you as an uncultivated nation. I would ask whom have they seriously injured? Whom have they robbed or plundered? I believe from all I have

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been able to learn that for the nine years the Mission has been established, taking all the thefts that have been committed in every settlement, they would not amount to £40, though they saw you possessed of all things and themselves poor and in want of all things, with the power in their hands at any moment to have stripped you of all you possessed. The natives have been hewers of wood and drawers of water for you, so that you cannot say that your difficulties have been very great on their account. But they have been exceeding great amongst yourselves. While I give you full credit for your constancy and perseverance in maintaining your station, I feel I cannot too severely condemn your disobedience of the orders of your superiors and the unkind and unchristian feeling which you have manifested towards one another. I shall always feel the greatest pleasure in affording you every comfort and support in my power, either as a body or as individuals, as long as you act becoming your characters as missionaries. But if any of you do act otherwise, I do solemnly declare that it is my determination to have no communication with those who do offend, and if the Society leave it in my power I will upon clear conviction remove all such persons from the Mission, however painful this measure may be. . . .

A few days ago I saw Shunghee (Hongi) sitting down with a large needle and twine sewing up the cracks in the soles of his feet which had been made in his late long journeys through the country, and he observed to me he had got no shoes, which made his feet so bad. His eldest son came also very lame. A stump of wood had passed through his foot in his journeys; nothing would have been more acceptable to them both than a pair of shoes. I merely mention the above to show how many-ways and opportunities you have of gaining the esteem of the chiefs by little well-timed attentions and at little expense. I cannot but blame the Revd. J. Butler also for not erecting a small cottage at Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) for Shunghee during the four years he has been in New Zealand. I hope the missionaries will not lose sight of doing any little thing for the chiefs when it is in their power. The missionaries did not come here for their own sakes, merely to make themselves happy and comfortable, but to promote the good of the poor heathen. . . .

I request you to weigh these things well. Do not suffer one another to go on in the wrong way with your eyes open. You are all responsible one for another in this respect, and if you allow any of your colleagues to live in idleness, or to expend the property of the Society in any improper manner and take no notice of these things, you become guilty in the highest degree.

To you who remain, the field of labour is now open. The prospect is clear. You have nothing to apprehend from the natives. They are ready to receive you everywhere. They now understand more our benevolent views, and their only cry is "Send us some good missionaries!" You cannot doubt but God will bless you in your work if you are found faithful. Set then your hand to the plough. Study what you can do for the cause you are engaged in. Unite in one heart and mind and live in unity and godly love, and then you will shake the very foundations of the kingdom of Satan, and you will see the temple of the living God gradually rising up amongst you and will hear the voice of joy and gladness in those dark and dreary abodes of ignorance, superstition, and cruelty.

I am, dear Sirs,
Your sincere and affectionate friend,
SAMUEL MARSDEN.