[CHAPTER III]
[Image of page 22]
CHAPTER III.
CLIMATE, SOIL, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.
OF the climate of New Zealand too much cannot be said in praise, as it is equalled by but few, and cannot be surpassed by any, in the world. It is extremely equable, and, consequently, well adapted to persons suffering from, or dreading, pulmonary disease; and to whom the sudden change from extremes of warm and cold temperature is fatally injurious. Many persons, and amongst them some with whom I am personally acquainted, emigrated solely on account of the benefit which they expected they might derive from the superior climate; and in every instance have their wishes been realized. Persons who may be, in other respects, disappointed with the country, and who make public their dissatisfaction, cannot find fault with the climate, which, were it possible, they would seek to condemn.
Since the arrival of the colony only one death has occurred from a contagious disorder, and none from immediate pulmonary affections. The few deaths which have taken place, have either been caused by accidental injuries, or by the natural decay of age. The life which a settler leads in a newly-settled country, the exposure to which he must be subject on his first arrival, and his many subsequent hardships, would, it might be thought, undermine the health of
[Image of page 23]
CLIMATE.
a person who had so lately been accustomed to every comfort in a civilized country; but far from having this effect, it is quite the reverse; and every one, especially those most actively employed, owns to an improvement of health since his departure from England.
During a residence of two years and a half in New Zealand and the Chatham Islands, much of which time was spent in exploring the country, in all seasons, and at times out for as long a period as two months, sleeping nightly in the open air,-- I never experienced a day's illness; but, on the contrary, found the life beneficial in general effect. The Company's surveyors, whose life is almost wholly spent in the bush, and who often pursue their vocation in all weathers, are amongst the healthiest and most robust men in the colony.
The climate is not more healthy than it is pleasant. In the summer season, which may be said to last for eight months, the weather is particularly fine, while even then it is never oppressively hot. The thermometer in the middle of summer ranges between 65 and 75 degrees, rarely exceeding the latter, and in winter seldom falls below 40 degrees.
Many persons who have written on New Zealand have described the climate as being too humid. These persons, I find, are, without exception, those who have visited the islands after a residence in New South Wales or Australia; and to whom the contrast of the moisture of New Zealand to the dry climate which they have been accustomed to, appears very great.
I do not consider New Zealand to possess a more rainy, or tempestuous climate than England. There is certainly in the winter a rainy season, lasting, with
[Image of page 24]
HIGH WINDS AND CONSEQUENT SALUBRITY.
occasional intermission, for several weeks; but in the summer and autumn there is much delightful weather. I have remarked that in these seasons the rain but seldom falls during the day; between midnight and sunrise being the general time of its occurrence. I cannot say that this is yet an established fact; but during one summer which I spent on the Hokianga and Kaipara rivers, and the ensuing one in Port Nicholson, it was certainly apparent. Notwithstanding the diminution of rain during the summer, the streams, which are very numerous in all parts of the country, never fail, partly in consequence of the heavy dews which fall at night, and partly the moisture which is at all times preserved in the forest, and about the hilly land.
It cannot be denied that some parts of the New Zealand coast are especially subject to heavy winds, and in that respect will vie with the coasts of England. The complaints, however, which have been made on this subject, are all from persons who have lived in the populous towns or inland counties of England, and who in New Zealand never penetrated the country to a distance of five miles from the beach of Wellington. I am positive in the assertion, that the towns of Wellington and New Plymouth are not more subject to boisterous winds than any towns on the English coast equally exposed in situation. It is true, however, that wind is a more serious inconvenience to such people in a recently formed settlement than in a regularly built English town.
I am equally sure of the truth of the statement, that the wind in Port Nicholson is never so violent as to do material injury to a field of corn; it would, however, be a matter of prudence in the settler, for several seasons, when clearing land, to leave a belt
[Image of page 25]
HIGH WINDS AND CONSEQUENT SALUBRITY.
of forest round his section, should he have chosen it near the coast.
The inconvenience of the exposure to the wind, which is felt in Port Nicholson and New Plymouth, is more than compensated by the extraordinary salubrity which it produces. The effect of the influence of the sun, during summer, upon the perpetually decomposing mass of vegetation under the New Zealand forest, would, were it not for the continual agitation of the atmosphere, be most pernicious to health, and, probably, cause the climate of New Zealand to be as injurious as that of Java or Sierra Leone. A physician, who went out in charge of one of the Company's first emigrant ships declared, on the occurrence of the first gale after his arrival, that the wind would oblige him to leave the country, as his business would there be nearly useless. He has since, however, been induced to follow the more productive branch of his profession, and in that capacity is in the colony a most useful member of society.
The effect of the equability of the climate is most conspicuous in the rapid development of vegetable life, and its constant progress. I have seen on many of the trees and shrubs, indigenous to the country, every stage of yearly vegetation appearing at one time; the leaf, bud, flower, fruit, and decayed leaf were each, seemingly, in their natural state, and without any appearance of defect. During the two winter months of June and July nature seems in more repose than at other times; but even then there is no suspension of vegetable life.
The perpetual verdure of the forest, and the uxuriance of vegetation, which is at all times conspicuous in the New Zealand Islands, must be accepted, even
[Image of page 26]
HILLY CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
by the most prejudiced, as a sufficient proof of the absence of that severity of climate, the effects of which are occasionally so disastrous in Europe, and elsewhere.
New Zealand is undoubtedly a hilly country. It exceeds Great Britain in superficial area, yet probably does not contain more available land than England alone; but all this available land is good, and the quantity will be sufficient for the wants of the colony for a long period. The hill country in New Zealand is at the same time far from being useless; it is always preferred by the natives for their plantations of potatoe and maize, and yields by hand labour, a good return. Throughout the various parts of New Zealand which I have visited, I have seen but little land, with the exception of the snowy summits, which would not produce the vine and olive, as well as in Italy or Switzerland, all the hills being covered with rich mould, which at present gives root to the loftiest forest trees. Between the mountain ranges the vallies extend parallel with them; and are generally covered with a soil of alluvial deposit, which is productive in the extreme.
The general extension of the mountain ranges is in one direction, namely, from north to south. This peculiarity is particularly observable about the southern part of the north island; in the Port Nicholson country, it will materially facilitate the means of communication by roads along the extent of the island.
The whole appearance of the country, physically and geologically, impresses one with the idea of its very recent formation. The effects of volcanic agency, which are everywhere apparent, together with the
[Image of page 27]
VOLCANIC FORMATION OF THE SOIL.
circumstance of the existence, at present, of active volcanoes, with the occurrence of earthquakes, add much to the probability of this opinion; and the total absence of any indigenous quadruped and reptile,1 together with the small number of freshwater fish, seems almost to confirm its truth.
New Zealand is probably more similar in character to Scotland, than it is to any other European country, being, like it, mountainous, at the same time that it contains much beautiful and fertile level land. No country in the world can have a greater number of fine harbours, or be better watered; while but few can vie with it in equability and temperature of climate.
The geology of New Zealand, is even now but little known; and it is impossible to say whether the country contains valuable minerals or not. Of the existence of precious metals, there have been found but few indications. Copper ore was discovered by Dr. Dieffenbach; and, in many parts of the country, the magnetic sand near the sides of rivers, proves that the stream has washed ferreous matter. But these signs cannot be stated as indicative of the existence of those metals in quantity.
New Zealand being for the most part covered either with forest or with high fern and flax, its superficial soil, as I have before mentioned, is generally of vegetable formation. The country, in every part, displays conspicuously the action of water; and in all the vallies the subsoil appears of alluvial origin.
[Image of page 28]
ADAPTATION OF THE SOIL
Around the various active and extinct volcanoes, and especially in the Taranaki and Taupo districts, the country is covered with a rich volcanic soil, which is very fertile.
The land most productive to the farmer, is certainly that which has been covered with forest; but this is objectionable to many, on account of the outlay which is necessary for bringing it into cultivation. It was expected in the colony, by persons acquainted with agriculture, that in consequence of the soil being formed by the decay of continually accumulating vegetable matter, and which would not, as in countries where the fall of the leaf was periodical, be subject to the necessary fermentation in decomposition, it would be too rank for the immediate cultivation of corn; and the great height of stalk in the wheat grown in the valley up the Hutt induced many to conclude, before the ear appeared, that it would entirely run to stalk. In this, however, they were mistaken, and the crop was in every way satisfactory. It is, however, considered best to plant new ground with potatoes before corn. The soil, under low and stunted fern, is generally, as the paucity of vegetation would indicate, unproductive. Land of this nature is, however, only to be met with in exposed places, or near the sea-shore. Where the country is covered with high fern and flax, as in the Nelson, Wanganui, Patea, and a part of the Taranaki districts, and in the Chatham islands, the soil is almost as rich as that under the forest; and on account of its being more easily cleared, is preferred, by many settlers, for immediate cultivation.
New Zealand, from its possession of a rich and fertile soil, a sufficiently moist atmosphere, and a mild climate, has every requisite for the successful
[Image of page 29]
FOR PRODUCING GRAIN.
practice of all European agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Experience has now shown that all kinds of grain, vegetables and fruits grown in England, flourish equally well in that country; and that many fruits, for which the English climate is too severe, may there be cultivated with success.
That the soil is pre-eminently of that nature suitable for the production of grain, cannot now be doubted, as the specimens already obtained prove that, with but little attention being paid to its culture, wheat especially will thrive. Wheat grown in the valley of the River Hutt, was of the first quality, and has been pronounced excellent by competent judges in England. It was grown on rank ground which had just been cleared, and from being planted in the wrong season, was not expected to turn out well. For some time, as I have just stated, it was feared that it would run to stalk, from the great height of the straw; but with the straw between five and six feet in height, the ear was in length as many inches.
Oats, also, flourish in Port Nicholson, and may be seen growing wild in many of the deserted potatoe grounds. Of the other kinds of grain I have met with no specimen in Port Nicholson, but I remember having seen before the house of one of the missionaries in the Hokianga country a fine field of nearly ripe barley, the state of which was fully satisfactory to the owner.
It is certain that before long New Zealand will supply the Australian colonies with wheat; the climate of New Holland not being adapted for its culture, in consequence of the excessive drought to which it is liable. The South American States now export grain and flour to Sydney and Van Dieman's Land, but that from New Zealand will, of course,
[Image of page 30]
CAPABILITIES OF THE SOIL.
forestall it in the market, through the smaller expense of shipment, and by taking the Australian staple in return.
All kinds of English vegetables grow equally well at Port Nicholson. On our first arrival at Cook's Straits, we found gardens at all the whaling establishments; poultry was also numerous, and although the people engaged at those places were not generally much acquainted with either agriculture or gardening, the devotion of a small portion of their time to those pursuits, aided by the richness of the ground, had enabled some of them to have many of the more substantial comforts of the English table.
At Port Nicholson, turnips, carrots, brocoli, cabbages, peas, beans, and, in fact, all garden produce, has been cultivated with success. Turnips have for a length of time been grown in the native plantations, together with maize, pumpkins, melons, and the indigenous Polynesian vegetable, "Taro." Great quantities of maize have been exported to Sydney from all parts of the islands; and that, together with the potatoe, is still collected at the various harbours and rivers for the Australian market.
Potatoes planted in the English method, upon cleared forest land, have yielded 14 tons per acre, and in the native way, putting stumps or roots whole in ground which is not cleared, 10 tons. At the Chatham Islands the soil is richer, and 16 tons can be obtained. The native method of culture is very defective. They never plant the "eye" separately, but reserve the very smallest of the produce for the next year's seed, and not unfrequently depend on what remains in the ground, after a negligent search, for the ensuing year's crop. They also only plant
[Image of page 31]
CAPABILITIES OF THE SOIL.
between the stumps in their clearing, which is still encumbered with trunks and branches of the fallen trees. They, nevertheless, always get abundant crops, and consequently think that the attention which they see the English pay to their fields is unnecessary trouble. The native turnip has increased in size, but degenerated in quality, since its introduction, in consequence of neglect of culture. The quantity, however, yielded by the land, is always good. Several specimens of giant cabbages have been produced from land near Wellington, and the size of one grown in Robinson Bay, close to the beach of the harbour, would have, in England, obtained it the premium of an horticultural society. Peas thrive remarkably well, and ripen during ten months of the year. The smaller kinds of garden stuff can, also, be had at almost any season.
All English fruit-trees may be grown in New Zealand. From a few peach and apricot stones that had been planted in the northern parts of the island, there are now great numbers of those trees growing wild about the Hokianga and Bay of Islands. They have also been said to grow wild at Taranaki, but of the truth of this I am not certain. Notwithstanding the short period of the establishment of the colony at Port Nicholson, there were when I left that place, many fruit-trees in blossom, most of which had been obtained from Sydney.
The vines taken from England were looking well, but their proper cultivation was not understood. In the garden of a timber merchant residing on the Hokianga, I noticed 106 different species of vines, which included all the most celebrated in Europe; and they all appear to be flourishing. In the same garden were all the English fruits,--pears, cherries,
[Image of page 32]
CAPABILITIES OF THE SOIL.
plums, gooseberries, both "Cape" and common currants, raspberries, and mulberries, growing in the utmost profusion. The flower garden, also, certainly rivalled many of the most beautiful in England.
To prove the extraordinary productiveness of the soil even in places where it should be least expected, I need only mention the circumstance that on the day of my departure from Wellington, I saw in the garden of a poor man on the beach, strawberries, with ripe fruit, growing in the sand, within ten paces of the sea. I may also mention having seen pumpkins, maize, and melons growing in the sandy soil of the beach of Thorndon, ere that place was chosen as the site of Wellington. English flax, or linseed, is also to be seen growing in a similar soil near the mouth of the Hutt.
Another proof of the capabilities of the soil and climate in New Zealand is afforded by the fact of several agriculturists, who had originally farmed in New South Wales, having preferred the first mentioned country, and settled themselves near Port Nicholson. One gentleman, in particular,2 who is now cultivating and improving land with great spirit near Wellington, had for a long time been resident in the interior of Australia, until, finding his farm ruined by the drought, he left that place in disgust, and settled in Port Nicholson with the first colonists, where he has now every prospect of success in his agricultural pursuits.
The gentlemen from the neighbouring colonies
[Image of page 33]
GRAZING DISTRICTS.
who have settled in Wellington, have shown an excellent example of spirit and energy to those more recently arrived from England. They know the difficulties which are to be combated in all new settlements, and are not daunted by the sight of a Government prohibition, or a hilly district, -- by a Colonial Secretary, or a forest.
The advantages possessed by New Zealand as a grazing country have been hitherto under-rated. Experience has shown that cattle thrive remarkably well in all parts of the country -- even in the forest; and the discovery of tracts of open land in the interior, shows that depasturage may be carried on upon a large scale.
About the south side of Mount Egmont, between it and the coast, in the Patea, Wanganui, and Manewatu districts are found the best grazing grounds in the north island. The nearest open country to Port Nicholson is that of Wairarapa at the head of Palliser Bay, and which is, to the northward, connected with all the districts above named. On the middle island the Nelson country seems the best suited for grazing. It is, according to the statements of the natives, connected with the Lookers-on, Port Cooper, and Molineux Harbour plains; all of which are open, and covered principally with grass and herbage. At Port Nicholson the cattle turned out about the town are all in good condition, although on importation they are generally far otherwise. The leaf of the "Kraka" laurel is their favourite food, and a good supply of this will cause even a cow in stall to yield much milk. On the island of Kapiti, in Cook's Strait, which is one of the most hilly and densely wooded spots in the country, cattle have for some time been wild. A bull and a cow were originally
[Image of page 34]
GRAZING DISTRICTS.
left there by a Sydney coasting vessel, and the increase from them is now considerable. On this island there is not an acre of grass land. At Porirua Bay, in the vicinity of Port Nicholson, and at Cloudy Bay, and Akaroa, on the middle island, cattle have been left by the New South Wales people for the purpose of breeding, which shows that the country is considered by them to be adapted for the support of herds.
The island of Mana, which stands in Cook's Straits, almost opposite the entrance of the Porirua harbour, has for years been a sheep farm, owned by a Sydney merchant. And although this island is exposed to all the violence of the north-west and south-east gales, its situation has not been found to be in any way detrimental to the flocks on it. The wool obtained from the sheep was pronounced, in New South Wales, to be very fine, and the quantity obtained from one animal, namely 9 lbs., is nearly double what is got in that country.
The advantages of depasturing large flocks and herds in a new colony cannot be too highly spoken of or appreciated, as it yields a profitable, sure, and quick return for the quantity of capital invested. The effect of grazing, in the early stages of a settlement, is to render the population less completely dependent on agricultural success than it would be without it; and while it only requires a small proportion of labour, yields at all times one of the most necessary articles of subsistence at a low price, causing at the same time much of the wealth of the colony to be circulated in it, instead of being drained off by the purchase of foreign imports.
Of the principal articles which New Zealand does
[Image of page 35]
PHORMIUM TENAX.
at present, or is shortly likely to export, the flax is certainly the most important. It is found in every part of the country, and flourishes alike in dry or swampy ground. No pains have ever yet been taken in its culture; and indeed but little are necessary, so luxuriant is it in its wild state. The form of the plant is very different to that of the European flax; it resembles the "flag" or "iris" in shape, but is much larger in growth. Some which I saw on the river banks in the Nelson country, measured fourteen feet in length, with a breadth in the leaf of six inches. Allowing one bush to have about a hundred leaves, it will occupy a square of six feet of superficial area, or 1210 plants will cover an acre. It is not, however, probable that the largest species of flax would be cultivated; as that of smaller growth, which is found on high land, has a greater proportion of the fibre to the vegetable substance which surrounds it, and is more easily dressed. Of the smaller kind, about 2,500 plants would cover the acre. As Mr. Petre's recently published work on the New Zealand settlements contains an able calculation of the produce of flax farms, together with an account of all that had been done in Port Nicholson, towards discovering a successful method of preparing the fibre, I shall only mention a few circumstances which have fallen under my notice, relating to its growth and capabilities.
An idea of the quantity of fibre contained in one leaf, may be obtained from the mention of the fact, that I have seen a native prepare and twist the hemp of one leaf, of the largest kind, into a cord ten feet in length, and of the thickness of a pencil. Since my return to England, I have had an opportunity of trying the strength of a piece of New Zealand cord, brought to England by a gentleman
[Image of page 36]
PHORMIUM TENAX, OR FLAX PLANT.
who accompanied Flinders in his voyage of discovery; and which I found to be equal to that of a piece of new English string of the same size.
The best flax districts in the estimation of the natives, are near to the sea-shore; and, according to their accounts, it grows finest at Taranaki, and along the shore of the Strait to Port Nicholson. The most luxuriant growth of the plant which I have seen, was at the head of Tasman's Gulf, in the country now occupied by the Nelson settlement; which in my idea is the finest flax district in New Zealand. At the last-mentioned place, on account of the country being of an open nature, and abundantly watered, it is met with in very great quantity. The hill flax is met with on the steepest and most exposed part of the coast, where the soil is not of sufficient depth to produce any other kinds of vegetation; and in consequence of this, its culture and exportation will cause a value to become attached to land which would be otherwise worthless.
The manufacture of the flax has already commenced in Wellington; and many vessels have been supplied with cordage, &c., from it.3 Several country sections have been chosen on the sea-coast near Port Nicholson for flax farms, on land that would not, from its exposed situation, produce grain, or be adapted to general agriculture.
The great want now, is the application of a successful method for preparing and packing the flax; and I cannot suppress my desire to see some attempt made in England to supply this deficiency. If proper
[Image of page 37]
PHORMIUM TENAX, OR FLAX PLANT.
attention could be attracted to this subject, it is more than probable that some efficient plan would speedily be devised, by means of which the colony would at once become independent of the success of other branches of agriculture; and by opening an immediate trade between it and the mother country, would make a quicker progress towards that completeness of settlement, and substantial prosperity, at which other colonies have been comparatively long in arriving.
