1908 - Webster, John. Reminiscences of an Old Settler in Australia and New Zealand [Selected chapter - CHAPTER II.

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Chapter II.

At last we bid adieu to Old Scotia, and sailed down the Firth of Clyde, passed the Island of Arran, which loomed high and dark as we passed it on this 23rd of August, 1838, in the barque "Portland," Captain Coubra. We partook heartily of our meals with the second and third officers. The sailmaker had meals with us also, and was a very decent fellow. The number of emigrants I ascertained to be 251. In the cabin was a Mr. Murray, Mr. Binney, and Dr. McFarlane, who attended on emigrants.

As we fairly got to sea the ship began to roll and toss, and Monro and I, with all the passengers got sick, doctor and all, and the children on board made a fearful noise squalling and fretting. Towards the end of the month I got on deck, free pretty well from sickness, and noticed the sea had changed from a green colour in shallow water to a bright blue. Portuguese men-of-war (so called), with their tiny sails, were passed in great numbers. We were scudding along at the rate of ten knots, with all sails set. A number of the passengers were still sick. Mother Carey's Chickens, beautiful black birds, were flitting here and there over the waves; to injure or shoot any of them would be

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reprobated by any sailor. I was quite myself again, and so was Mr. Monro, and passengers and emigrants enjoyed the sunny deck, for we were heading towards the tropics.

On Sunday a sermon was read by the doctor from the quarter-deck. An awning spread across it protected the emigrants from the sun, the heat from which was every day increasing. A number of the emigrants were Highlanders who were very touchy and subject to quarrelling. The captain asked Mr. Monro and myself to undertake the role of constables, and said he would support us, which position we both undertook. The captain asked us sometimes to dine with him, and we often had that pleasure. On the whole our duties as constables were very light, and we had seldom to interfere. As we progressed towards the Line the heat became more oppressive, the thermometer being 76 deg. in the shade. The sunsets were magnificent. On the 6th September we passed Madeira, and flying fish were seen, and a school of grampus, apparently pursuing them for food. The second mate told me if I got a hook we might catch some bonito, as they were seen at the bow of our ship keeping pace with the vessel. I enquired amongst the emigrants, and at last found a party who had a lot of hooks of various sizes. The second mate selected one, tied a piece of white rag to it, put it over the bow, just touching the water. He had it long just dipping the water when he hooked a large fish called an

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albacore, which the cook made ready for our next mess.

A child was born a few days ago, but died on Sunday, the 9th September. The poor little thing at the dawn of life was committed to the deep in the afternoon. The morning's service was read as usual in the forenoon. The sun is increasing in heat now daily. Flying fish are now numerous, and heavy clouds portending rain are now seen. We are now, I presume, getting into what seamen call the doldrums, on this 20th September, and we are four points out of our course. At night porpoises were all around the ship, making the sea quite luminous as they swam all around us. A quarrelsome offender was brought before Mr. Monro and me, who condemned him to work the pumps in the morning while washing decks for a week. Another was found guilty of leaving suet below his berth for longer than necessary, and was punished by losing his currants and suet for a fortnight. We now see stars invisible to us in Scotland. On Sunday, the 23rd September, we sighted a ship which proved to be the "James Pattison," which sailed from Plymouth on the 23rd August. We had rain this evening. Next day we came abreast of the "James Pattison." She also is bound for Sydney, with 302 emigrants on board and several in the cabin. The wind was ahead, and we went on different tacks, and soon were out of sight of each other.

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Tuesday, 25th September.--A child died this morning, another is ailing. We are now in latitude 5 deg. 5' North, 19 deg. West longitude, somewhere opposite the Guinea coast of Africa. Some fish were hooked this morning, but fell off before reaching deck.

We had an American amongst the emigrants, who made an offer of four sovereigns that no woman would venture to the foretop of the ship. A Scotch lassie went up, and gained the prize. I often go up myself, and lie down in the top. There is no noise except the whistling of the breeze.

September 27th.--Thermometer 80 deg., wind 5 points ahead. The sunset was one of the most magnificent I ever beheld. As the sun sank in the west the clouds appeared to be on fire, while the sun looked through two arms of gold and purple. At the same time a rainbow was seen in the east with beautiful radiations.

On the 28th September a board of health was formed by the doctor. Fresh soup was served out to invalids, and bathing under canvas daily, men one day, women the next, and so on. Mr. Monro and myself usually in this warm weather get up early and souse each other with buckets before anyone is about. The water was quite warm, and full of the luminous animalcules. In the dark, when we were extra early, these would float down our bodies in a stream of light.

We are now in 1 deg. 17' North latitude. The passengers were dancing on the main deck

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to-night to bagpipes, and one of the emigrants, who had been in the army, drilled any of the passengers who offered. The captain allowed him to drill on the quarter-deck, and the use of the ship's muskets were given for the occasion. On the 30th September another child was born. We are now in the East Trades, pleasant breeze, and doing six knots. Some of the emigrants are complaining of their neighbours having vermin on their persons, and a scrutiny was ordered by the captain. Much of the bedding was condemned and thrown overboard, and inspectors appointed to examine the bedding frequently.

October 1st--Mr. Murray, when weather permitted, has been teaching the young children on the quarter-deck every forenoon, and is one of the cabin passengers, and has since we started done all he could for the benefit of his fellow passengers. The only other cabin passenger is a Mr. Binney, who is consumptive, and is seldom out of his cabin.

On the 3rd October a notice was posted on the long boat:--

NOTICE.
A complaint has been made that some of the passengers (mostly females) are in the habit of indulging in profane and indecent language. This is to inform them that if any individual, male or female, indulge in such conversation they will be most severely punished.

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I have no doubt that some of the emigrants are not of the class that should have been selected, but the majority, as far as I can see, are of the right sort. I have noticed a few elderly people married who have no children. Such as these should not be allowed to emigrate, for they are going out to build another Britain in the Pacific, and having no children and elderly, they can do little in that way. We are now in the trades, and bowling along nicely, flying fish abundant. I notice they don't flap their wings, but rise from the water with a spring sufficient to carry them some distance with outspread wings. The child that was born the other day has died, and was thrown overboard in a wrapper without ceremony, because it had not been baptised. Is baptism necessary to ensure a decent burial, and what of its future state, &c.? I begin to think there is something wrong in our religious ceremonies.

The sailors quarrelled with their cook, who cooks for them and us exclusively, and also for the cabin. The sailors are angry with him for allowing some of the emigrants to use the galley occasionally. One of the sailors threw hot tea into the cook's face, declaring there was salt water in the tea. I believe myself if there was salt water in the tea it was introduced by one of themselves surreptitiously. The cook was badly scalded. The cook, however, was disrated, and notice given that no emigrant should enter the galley that cooked for the crew. A Highland

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lady came on board as a steerage passenger with her husband, son, and daughter. She took very ill. The first mate gave up his cabin for her accommodation. Their name was Stevenson. On October 7th, a cloudy sky and a drizzling rain towards night, which, falling on the water, disturbed the myriads of animalcules in the sea, which sparkled like diamonds. On October 9th we were scudding along with a fine breeze, but it changed right ahead with a rather rough sea. We are now in South latitude. Mrs. Stevenson died on the 10th, and was committed to her ocean grave after service was read. We were all sorry for husband and family, who were plunged in grief, for they were a most affectionate family.

There was a general meeting of the passengers to-day regarding a peculiar case. There is amongst the emigrants a Mr. Jeffery, a tailor by profession, a little man, very conceited, who is also always getting into scrapes. He is a great talker, and can discourse on politics and the Church question, quarrels with his wife, and is always at the emigrants' fire cooking delicacies for himself. This renowned individual was sentenced by the committee of emigrants to perform some task for a misdemeanour. He failed in performing the task. A new committee had been formed since his sentence. Jeffery tried to bamboozle the present committee, as he boasted he had done the last. The last committee sentenced him to perform

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the original task three times over, but he got a substitute to perform the sentence for doing a little job in the mending line. I was asked by the last committee to take down their proceedings, and write down all their trials. I accepted the office, as it afforded me much amusement, and got some paper from the captain for the purpose. The party who had performed this duty formerly had forced himself on the first committee, and had also been appointed to serve out the rations for the emigrants, and was supposed to have benefited thereby personally. A passenger sent me the following:--

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This day, the 10th October, the 'tween decks were fumigated with chlorine, and thoroughly washed and cleaned. We are scudding along with a strong breeze, doing from eight to ten

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knots, with rather a heavy sea. To-day the committee had a case before them. A Mr. Fraser had his wife for some time in the hospital, but she had recovered, and Fraser was asked by the doctor to clean out the place where she had lain. Fraser told the messenger, in a joking manner, that the doctor might have cleaned it himself. The doctor ordered Fraser before the captain, who gave him a great scolding. The doctor had said to Fraser that when Fraser spoke to him he must uncover his head. This and the captain's scolding so irritated Fraser that he defied them both, and walked out. The captain afterwards sent a message to Fraser that he would not be allowed to come abaft the mainmast in future, a privilege allowed to the other emigrants.

Cape pigeons now appeared, following the ship; beautiful birds like spotted pigeons.

14th October, strong breeze, doing ten knots. Cape pigeons following the ship in her wake, picking up any fat substance thrown overboard. The wind suddenly fell, and the ship rolled fearfully. My trunks and Monro's got adrift, and we had to get up in the night to lash them properly. Albatross now appeared. I got my fowling piece out, and had a shot at them with ball, but failed to bring one down; but next day Mr. Murray and I tried again, and one fell with a great splash in the sea. The captain ordered a boat to be lowered to pick it up, as there was not much wind, and the sea had fallen. When it

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came on board I measured the bird. It measured 10 feet 4 inches from tip to tip of the wings. On the 17th, a fresh breeze; only, however, doing about six knots, as the wind varied a good deal. I tried catching birds with hook and bait. A cork fastened to the line kept the bait near the surface. Had the hooks been smaller I might have caught a few. I was advised by the first mate to blacken a line and tow it astern. He had seen birds caught by getting entangled in the line. I tried it, and sure enough, one of the Cape pigeons got entangled and I hauled the line gently in, and caught the bird, which gave my hand rather a sharp peck. This bird I killed and afterwards sent the skin home. A shoal of porpoises passed us close to the ship. They had white noses, fins, and tails. We are now in 38 deg. South latitude, 10 deg. West longitude. I was busy all day making out a new book of rations, rather a tedious job. 20th October--A select committee, by the request of the first officer, Mr. Stocker, to enquire into some of the ship's provisions taken from a cask on deck, from which some cod fish had been taken. It was found that the cook had exchanged on various occasions cod fish for herring that one of the passengers had brought on board with him, and so the case ended. 21st October--Very foggy and no wind, the Cape pigeons very tame, and sat on the water eating any meat particles thrown from the ship. This day all the females were served with a bottle of wine, and the men folks with a

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glass of rum each day at noon. The second mate served the rum out, and brought about half a bottle to us in the mess, but I let the rest drink it, only taking a little now and then. This was continued until we got to Sydney. 23rd October--Fair wind, strong breeze, doing eight knots. Two land birds rested on the bowsprit, and seemed quite exhausted. After resting they flew away. To-day the second mate informed me as a secret that we were to call at the Cape of Good Hope for fresh meat, and I must tell no one, as the captain says he has no occasion to call there.

Friday, 26th October--Fine breeze, all sail on the ship, going ten knots. Three whales seen, a number of birds followed them. I was told they picked the barnacles off the monsters, and are called whale birds. We are now in 35 deg. South latitude. Sunday, 28th October--Beautiful morning, very little wind. Service as usual 'tween decks. In the afternoon a strong favourable wind sent us along cheerily. On Monday the passengers are now given to understand that we call at the Cape, and all are rejoiced that we will see land once more. The anchor cable chains were hauled on deck, the emigrants helping the seamen joyously. We spoke the "Volunteer," of Whitehaven, loaded with tea from China, and bound for Liverpool. She left Canton three months ago, and passed the Cape yesterday. They were short of canvas, and sent a boat to board us to beg for some,

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and also provisions. Captain Coubra gave them a cask of beef and some canvas, for which they were thankful. Tuesday, the 30th day of the month, we saw land appearing like huge clouds rising out of the sea. As we got nearer, Table Mount appeared in all its majesty. At the foot of the mountain lies Cape Town. No one could gaze on the present scene unmoved, especially after such a trip as we had had. At various distances, rising as it were out of the water, mountain after mountain, amongst which new prospects presented themselves in mist till the eyes were lost in an agreeable perplexity. All the passengers were on deck now, looking with longing eyes on the land. Towards evening we approach the land, but the captain declined anchoring until morning.

Wednesday, 31st October--Scarcely had day dawned when all the passengers were on deck, with the prospect of once more setting foot on terra firma, and tasting the fruit and productions of Southern Africa. About 9 o'clock all the women and children were ordered below so as to keep the decks clear for working the ship. The men were allowed to assist the sailors, and were divided into two parties for that purpose. Cape Town had not yet been seen, being hid by Sugarloaf Mount. Table Mountain lies behind the town. Houses and villas now appeared along the coast, as we sailed with a gentle wind towards the coast. Table Mountain is certainly a striking feature in the landscape. It seems

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almost perpendicular, with quite a flat top. The bay (I think they call it Simon's Bay) is very spacious and exposed. We sounded as we went in, and anchored in about twelve fathoms. The bay is very exposed, and often ships are driven ashore and wrecked. A warning is given when Table Mount appears with what they call the tablecloth on its summit, a white mist that creeps downwards. The town itself appears quite insignificant from our anchorage.

Soon a boat came off to us, and in it was the harbourmaster, who, after inspecting the vessel, left us. A crowd of native boats then appeared, wanting passengers for the shore, but were sent empty away by the captain, at which the passengers were much offended. The emigrants, however, were given to understand that the captain would make a selection of so many, who would be taken ashore in the ship's boats. He would only select those who earned his confidence by their conduct on board. Some twenty-five were selected. Mr. Monro, Mr. Murray, and myself also went, and the captain said he expected we should look after the emigrants, as he was in a measure responsible for them. Mr. Murray, Mr. Monro, and myself, however, did not wait for the ship's boat, but hailed a native boat which was hanging about. A fresh breeze was blowing towards the shore, and a sail was hoisted, and we sailed merrily towards Cape Town. When we got to the landing place we found a jetty

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stretching about 100 yards from the beach, at which we landed. We found a crowd of people on the wharf (so called). Most of them had enormous cane hats nearly the size of an umbrella. Saving a few Europeans, most of those we saw were Hottentots, with negro features. There were a few Indians also, handsomely dressed in their native costumes, and are traders. We now made tracks for the town. When we reached the end of the wharf we had to stop to allow a team of bullocks to pass, driven by one Hottentot. He had a long bamboo whip which he used to persuade the bullocks to get along the road.

The first street we entered seemed to be peopled by Dutchmen, from the signs on the shops, and from their appearance, also as the men we saw were all Dutch built apparently, stout and jolly looking. They are the most important people in the town, though not so numerous as the others. There was a row of trees on one side of this street, beneath whose shelter sable ladies sold fruit. Walking along the street we espied a sign, London Tavern, into which we entered, and called for some bread and cheese with a bottle of native wine. The hotel was kept by one Brook Lewis, who was very talkative, and gave us lots of information about things in general, and himself in particular. He had been in the army, and had seen some fighting and much adventure. The wine he offered was only 4d. a

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bottle. We asked if Constantia was to be had. He replied he had some old Constantia, but it would cost 1/- a bottle. This was produced, and it was truly nectar in comparison. After we were refreshed we went out on the street to pursue our researches further afield. After purchasing some fruit we went down several streets. All the houses were flat-roofed. Some had great arches in the centre of the building in which sat dark women selling apricots and other fruits, of which we purchased. The ship's boat was to come for us about this time, so we wended our way to the wharf, and got on board the boat which was waiting, and got on board our ship, and were surrounded by the people as if we were from another world, asking what we had seen, &c.

Next day Mr. Monro and I went ashore again, this time in a native boat. We hied to the London Tavern, and asked if we could get a private room to write letters in. We were shown into a snug little room. He supplied us with paper, ink, &c., and sent out at our request for local newspapers. We both wrote to friends in dear old Scotia, and finding where the post office was, proceeded to post letters and papers. The remuneration to our host of the Tavern was very moderate. Mr. Monro and I went to the seaside, but could not endure the heat. We returned to the shady side of the streets and on the market place, which is a large square, and where we had a nearer

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view of Table Mount. In the square, on the shady side were fruit sellers. Oranges, apricots, cocoanuts, and vegetables of many kinds were here for sale. We purchased oranges, which being pulled when ripe were most luscious. There was a large pump in the centre of the square, from which some miserable blacks were drawing water to keep down the dust, and only with buckets. We learned they were prisoners, and were thus punished. They were looked over by a very pleasant Malay, who looked over the prisoners, and with whom we had some conversation. We saw some fine Arabian horses passing over the square. The riders were mostly English. We saw some pretty ponies also.

The town is much larger than I expected to find it, and contained some very handsome buildings, churches, meeting-houses, &c. The streets are so similar to each other that we got lost, but we always could get to the beach and start afresh for new discoveries. The shops or stores were all vaulty-looking buildings, flat-roofed. In one street the Dutch occupied the majority of the buildings. On some of the signs were the following intimations as to the owner's trade and occupation.

P. VAN BREDA,
Negotie Winkle.

S. VAN RONEN,
Brood an Besokuit Bakker.

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MARTIN,
Deals Hout, &c., for &c., Te Sale Koop.

The foregoing is a specimen of the Dutch signs. The suburbs of the town are very beautiful, containing villas with lovely surroundings, and flowering trees of great variety and a most fragrant smell. To me it seemed a perfect paradise. From this spot we had a fine view of the bay. The sea was calm and bright as a mirror. We saw our bark resting two miles from shore. Soon she will spread her wings again and carry us onwards to our destination. The bay was covered by thousands of sea birds, which are not allowed to be shot. On the north side of the town I noticed a number of windmills facing the bay. None of the streets are paved, but most of them have shady trees on both sides. I learned that cabin biscuit was sold at 8d. per lb., bread equally dear, sugar 3d., coffee 7d., mutton hams from 1d. to 4d., butter 1/4 to 1/6, eggs 2/- a dozen, tea 3/- a pound, sheep 13/-, turkeys 7/-, fowls 5/- per pair. Fish was cheap.

It was now time to think of getting on board, so we purchased some oranges, cocoanuts, and onions, and passed through several streets, being in doubt as to which led to the wharf. On the way we met several of our passengers, who told us that the captain had sent ashore a message that all must be on board by 4 o'clock, as the vessel was to sail that evening. On the

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way to the wharf we were accosted by a native boy, who told us in broken English that several of our passengers were in gaol, having been disorderly in the streets. He went with us to show us the gaol. While he yet spoke to us, one of our female passengers corroborated the truth of the boy's statements. She also was tipsy, and said she would not go on board until her husband and cousin (now in gaol) went also. Seeing her condition, and it being useless to talk to a drunken woman, we, with the boy guide, went to the Court House and interviewed the gaoler, who said if the ship was to sail to-night he would release those in custody if the captain sent him a letter to that effect. He also said the men had been fighting and quarrelling on the street, and he had only done his duty by incarcerating them. The woman, who had followed us, railed violently at the officers, and demanded their release immediately, and otherwise acted very imprudently, for the gaolers were very civil.

When we got to the wharf a shocking scene presented itself. The female passengers were using the most disgusting language. Natives of every grade were onlookers, and were laughing at the manner in which the ordinary men and women of that great country, England, were behaving. A strange gentleman paid for a boat to convey some of them on board, as they were a disgrace to their country. Another gentleman paid for washing some of the

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females' faces before they went on board. With some difficulty we got off from the wharf. When we reached the ship the chief officer, Mr. Stoker, confiscated all the wines and spirits that were found on the passengers. The reason assigned for so doing was, that they in that condition would fight, and also give drink to the sailors, rendering them unfit for duty. One of the sailors had gone ashore with the passengers, and married one of them named Jane Dixon. We did not sail that night. The captain went ashore next morning to get the men out of gaol, and to hunt up the missing passengers. He was successful in getting all but one woman, and she was an idiot, and ought never to have been selected for a free passage. She was subject to fits on board, and in every way indicated the careless way of selecting the emigrants. The captain left with the authorities £20 to send her when found to Sydney, where she will be anything but an acquisition. Those who selected her are certainly to blame.

On Saturday, the 3rd November, we once more had the anchor up and were at sea. On taking a last look at Table Mount I noticed that the tablecloth was being spread, a pure white film of vapour was creeping down from the top, indicating strong winds and rough seas. At noon Mr. Fulton, the second officer, bawls down the hatchway, Grog O! Grog O! and the male passengers scrambled

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up with cups or pannikins to receive their allowance of rum from Jamaica, which all ships carried in those days.

On Saturday, 3rd November, we were sailing south in order to clear the land. On Sunday, 4th, sermon 'tween decks as formerly. Passengers are all quiet after their run ashore at the Cape. I am sorry that so many of them when ashore acted so foolishly.

Monday, the 5th, our course is now southeast. The women, as usual, got their wine served out to them. We are now encountering the heaviest seas we have yet experienced, and the waves are the highest and furthest apart that we have yet seen. When at the Cape we took on board a lot of sheep. All of them had enormous tails, a solid lump of fat. They had very coarse wool, more like hair. The mutton was very sweet and tasty after the salt junk and pork we had been used to the greater part of the voyage.

Tuesday, 6th November--To-day the passengers had soup; half the sheep that was killed yesterday was made into soup, the other half went into the cabin and our mess. From early morning there was a sail in sight. We are now in very rough weather, with a wind ahead, and are close-hauled to it. The foretopsail yard carried away, and we have no spare spars on board. It took some time to get the spar and sail on deck. The carpenter of the ship says he might make it serviceable again, but we sail

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now under reduced canvas. The wind and sea rising; cold dark nights. Before turning in I went on deck, just as about ship was called by the officer on watch, Mr. Stoker. I gave the sailors help with the braces, it warmed one up, and I often gave them assistance; so did many of the passengers. As the ship heeled over there was much smashing of crockery 'tween decks, and one could scarcely stand on deck. Even in our bunks we rolled about, and could not sleep. S. latitude 36 deg. 46'.

Thursday, 8th November--The wind keeping up, ship rolling fearfully, and taking in seas on both quarters. The cook managed to kill another sheep. A ship passed us early in the morning, so we were told. I stick to our cabin in such weather as we are having. Mr. Monro got a great ducking going on deck, and had to change his clothes. One of the emigrants, by name David Living, whose wife is in the hospital, and he also as attending her in the absence of others, forced a trap door leading into the captain's cabin, and stole a bottle of champagne and a silver spoon. I believe it was done for the sake of his wife, but he foolishly took a silver spoon from the cabin with the captain's initials on, which was found in his trunk. The matter being serious, it was left to the captain to decide the punishment.

Sunday, 11th November--Wind over the quarter, rattling along at the rate of eleven knots. Sermon 'tween decks as

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usual, text "The Lord God, merciful and gracious." After service a squall with heavy rain came on suddenly. The hoarse cry of the captain, speaking through a trumpet so as to be heard, and the peculiar cry of the sailors as they took in sail, filled the passengers with consternation. The doctor, leaving his post on a raised platform, fell, and the platform with him, on top of a woman, who fainted. A man was sent to the cabin for a glass of wine for the woman. He also fell down and broke the glass, so there was a series of accidents following on the doctor's sermon. We have run in the last forty-eight hours 526 miles. We are now 45 deg. E. latitude, 40 deg. N. longitude. The sea is running very high; enormous waves with a great distance between them.

Tuesday, 13th November.--The weather has changed for the better, less wind and the sea abating. The evening was beautiful, and as the stars came out they seemed to twinkle with pleasure.

Wednesday, the 14th--Lovely morning, fine fresh breeze. A shoal of whales passed the ship. A studdingsail boom was carried away during the night. Thursday, the 15th--Fine morning, but very cold; ship rocking fearfully, the wind having gone down, and it was impossible for anyone to keep his legs on deck. Friday, 16th--The captain sent the committee a gallon of brandy to make toddy, which was appreciated.

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Saturday, 17th November--The wind is piping up again, going nine and a half knots. A Mrs. Robertson had a serious fall to-day, and had to be taken to the hospital. Sunday, 18th--Service as usual, text Exodus 34, 8. An immense number of birds, whale birds I presume, who pick the barnacles off whales' backs and sides. Strong wind, averaging eight to 10 knots. 19th--Fair wind, but mountainous sea, the gunwales sometimes under water, and pitching at the same time; scudding along under reefed topsails and reefed mainsail. In the afternoon a very heavy squall struck the ship, heavy rain at the same time. The scene 'tween decks, I am told, was indescribable, everything topsy turvey. Monro and I had our trunks carefully lashed, so they could not move.

20th--Such another day. In the morning the ship struck a piece of ice, and shivered from stem to stern. We have seen no icebergs so far, and the ice the ship struck against was unlooked for and unexpected. During the day there was frequent rain and hail. Many albatross round the ship, and keeping pace however swift we sailed. It appeared, indeed, that the swifter we sped along the easier they seemed to follow, never flapping their wings. On one occasion one was caught by a baited hook and brought on deck. The sailors said it could not rise from it, and could not even fly except in a gale of wind. Sure enough the bird made no attempt

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to rise from the deck, and vomited small squid, which is the food of whales. The albatross, as I said, never flap their wings, but place them at different angles, and would sweep quite round us, and keep ahead, however fast the ship was going.

21st November -- Beautiful morning but very cold. About noon the captain came down from the poop, and asked if I had good eyesight. I said my eyesight was all right. "Come forward and look over the larboard bow and say if you can pick out anything." At first I saw what appeared to be strange shaped clouds, but looking more attentively I saw it was land, and called "Land O!" on the larboard bow. There was a rush of men and women, as well as sailors, to see St. Paul's Islands, for so it turned out to be. They cover a space of about twelve miles, so the captain told me. The French some time ago had a sealery upon the islands, but it is now abandoned. Goats have been landed. There is nothing but brushwood for them to live on. These islands are on the track of ships going to Australia, and most vessels try to pick them up in passing. The captain told me there was a boiling spring on St. Paul's, where the French used to cook their food. Fish are plentiful and good. I took a sketch of the island as we passed.

Sunday, 25th -- Strong wind, going ten and a half knots. Sermon 'tween decks as usual, text Luke 12-35. The doctor

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reads his sermons, prayers, and blessing all off paper, but to-day he managed the blessing without reading it. 26th--Beautiful morning, going 10 knots. I hear that several of the sailors are incapable of doing their duty, and one or two are in the hospital. Up to the 29th we had similar weather. The committee started a washing day twice a week now. Mr. Monro got one of the women to wash for us. We had previously, at different times, had our clothes washed when weather permitted.

Saturday, 1st December -- Strong winds continue, sheets and haulyards strained to their utmost, seamen on quarter deck ready for any emergency, but squall passed without doing damage. Sunday, 2nd December--Wind is light. Tuesday, 4th--We have a complete calm. Several whales seen. One of them came close to the ship, and kept close to it for some time. The captain gave orders to-day to stop giving out washing water until we had a fair wind. From this it would seem that the water is getting short. I wonder why, after the rains we have had, that some means were not tried to replenish the casks or tanks. This evening was beautiful. The piper appeared with his bagpipes and dancing soon followed.

Wednesday, the 5th -- Another fine day, with a fair breeze. The washing water was now given out, and the woman we had formerly employed kindly offered her

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services on this occasion also, so Mr. Monro and I got out all our used linen, &c., for we hope the last time an board the "Portland." Next day was excellent for drying and then ironing. All our things were most beautifully washed and ironed. The day was fine and the sun warm, the wind only sufficient to take us along at one and a half knots, but the seamen predict a breeze before long, for curious clouds appeared in the sky (called by the sailors cat's teeth). The sky is ever changing and ever new. The combination of the clouds in shape and hue is infinite, and we have seen scenes of such beauty and splendour as neither the poet or painter dared to pourtray. The changes of the sky impart, as it were, life and feeling; calms and storms are the passions of Nature as of humanity. The captain seems to believe with the sailors that we are to have a breeze, for he has ordered all the topsails to be reefed. A male child was born to-day, which, with the mother is doing well.

Friday, the 7th December--Little wind as yet, but streamers of cat's teeth extend all over the sky. The captain intends now going round Van Diemen's Land via Bass Straits. A great number of porpoises round the ship. Light clouds were seen in motion in the sky above, so a change is imminent. Saturday, the 8th December--Still becalmed, scarcely moving, and there is a fog on the water rolling towards the ship. Vivid

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flashes of lightning now appeared. Thunder was heard, and a strong breeze sprang up; and as we had been prepared for it, we were scudding along, wind dead aft. Rain in torrents followed the thunder. The wind shifted towards evening, and we were close-hauled to it when I turned into my berth.

Sunday, the 9th -- A strong head wind blowing, cold and very damp. Service as usual 'tween decks. Wind changed, and we bore away for Bass Straits, carrying all the canvas we could on the ship. Wind continued to increase, and we had to take in studding sails and reef topsails again. Rain again fell in torrents, and we had to keep below, no chance of going on deck. Monday, 10th December--Strong wind, seas breaking over the bulwarks, jib torn and carried away. King's Island in sight. It is about sixty miles long, and is covered with forests. I went on deck and had a look at it, but did not stay, for everything was wet and disagreeable. The ship was put about during the night.

Tuesday, 11th--Wind still ahead. King's Island still in sight, but soon we lost sight of it, and at 4 p.m. we sighted Wilson's Promontory. 'Bout ship again at 6 p.m. The sunset was lovely, the clouds appeared like burnished gold, relieved by a sky of yellow and blue. At eight bells, midnight, the watch was turned out to 'bout ship. I often joined them, and the night was fair and beautiful.

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Wednesday, the 12th -- We passed an island of fantastic shaped rocks. A lot of medusae appeared in the sea, pulsating with their tentacles all in motion. In fact the sea was full of them. We were informed that Bass Straits was a fishing ground for barracoota, so we got lines out, as we were going merrily through the water. We used no bait, all that was wanted was a biggish hook and a red or white rag, and the bait (so called) was dragged on the surface of the water. I was the first to haul in a fish. It was about four feet long, fins all along the back, and slender in shape. All the passengers who had lines were now at work, and soon the deck was covered with fish. As their fins were very sharp several of the passengers got severely hurt in handling them. Shoals of a different kind of fish were seen, with seabirds hovering over them screaming and diving after their prey.

Thursday, the 13th December--As we are now reaching the end of our voyage, a committee was selected to draw out a letter to be presented to our worthy captain. Those selected were John Webster, Robert Monro, Peter Robertson, John Henderson, William Jeffrey, and John McIntire. It was proposed by the meeting that after the letter was drawn out a meeting should be called to hear it read, which was agreed to, of course. So we set to work without delay. The result was as follows:--

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TO CAPTAIN COUBRA,
Commander of the "Portland,"
SIR,--We, the passengers of the "Portland," grateful to a kind and protecting Providence for the great health we have enjoyed, and for the great courtesy and kindness received from yourself since we embarked in your ship, and being now near to our destination, beg to assure you that we are highly sensible of your kind and gentlemanly conduct towards us; confident that our words are unequal to express our feelings for the manly and upright manner you have acted towards all in your charge. We also beg to congratulate you on having such kind and efficient officers, whose assiduity and attention to the passengers has earned our lasting gratitude. We also congratulate you on making such a good selection of your seamen. In conclusion we cannot too highly express our esteem and approbation of Dr. McFarlane for his attention and diligence to all under his care. Wishing you every enjoyment of health, and success in all your undertakings, hoping that the Providence that has protected since we left British shores may safely guide you back again to the land of cakes.
(Signed by all who could write.)

At a meeting of the passengers the letter was read to them, and the chairman wanted to know whether anyone wished amendments or alterations to the letter just read, or of any objections to the same being sent to the captain. There being no objections, the letter was accordingly sent to Captain Coubra. Mr. Murray, who had been teaching the children on board, was also the recipient of a letter.

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Friday, 14th--Strong fair wind, going ten knots. A sail was sighted ahead, which we are rapidly overtaking. The passengers are now all anxiety regarding their future prospects, and all look very serious; no more laughing and joking. The sea towards evening became very rough. The doctor received a letter of thanks from those he had attended in the hospital, signed by thirty passengers. In reply the doctor wrote as follows:--

GENTLEMEN,--I cannot but feel very grateful for the letter I have this moment received. I am happy to think that my professional labours have met with your approbation. I cordially join with you in thanking a gracious Providence, and trust that we may still be the objects of His care, and to walk more and more worthy of His goodness. I pray that your industrious efforts may be crowned with success in your adopted country.
Yours, most obediently,
DR. MCFARLANE.

Mr. Murray's reply to the letter sent him by the parents of the children who had been taught by him on the voyage was as follows:--

GENTLEMEN,--I had much pleasure in receiving the very kind letter you sent me, signed by you, the parents of the young people I was in the custom of hearing lessons read by them on the voyage. I am afraid you much over-rate any little services I may have been able to do them. It was my anxious wish that, if they should acquire nothing new, they may

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have at least not forgot what they had formerly acquired, and I would fain flatter myself that object had been attained. If at any time after our arrival in the wide extended territory on which we have now a near prospect of landing, I shall hear of you and your families' prosperity, it will afford me the greatest pleasure, and I earnestly pray that God may long spare you and your wives together, and that you may be permitted to see your children become useful and respectable members of society. As they grow in years may they grow in grace.
P. S. MURRAY.

Cape Howe is now seen, and a great part of the coast. The ship seen in the morning is now on our larboard quarter. It has been in dirty weather, and apparently under jury masts, and quite disabled. The sea is still rough, with high seas. The wind rising, we had to take in sail, or we might have been in the same sorry plight as the poor ship we had left behind.

Saturday, 15th December--Rained heavily during the night. The wind continues fair, and more moderate; rather hazy. There is neither land or ship to be seen, but as we sailed on the haze lifted, and the sun came out warm and pleasant. The anchor cable was to-day got on deck, the passengers taking great interest in the event. To show how different opinions are formed of the same individual, referring to Dr. McFarlane, an acrostic was written by one of the passengers, of which I got a copy, but the party's name I will not disclose.

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AN ACROSTIC.

The author of the above writes me,--

SIR,--If you have a select corner in your journal insert the above acrostic. If it does not merit to be seen, you may deposit it in some convenient place for a domestic purpose.
Sir, I am your careworn humble servant,
----------.

Sunday, 16th--Lovely quiet morning, and quite warm, but a head wind, which has damped the spirits of all aboard, though a few would like to prolong the voyage. Service as usual 'tween decks, which was better attended than

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usual, as it was expected to be last day Dr. McFarlane would read the service. The text was the parable of the virgins. The sermon was of course read as usual. It was a farewell sermon, too, and attentively listened to. Mr. Murray had assisted the doctor in compiling the sermon. Amongst other things he said, "It is a common saying that when a Scotchman leaves his native land and his father's house he leaves his faith behind him. He hoped it would not be the case with his hearers, &c." After service the breeze fell to a dead calm, and shortly afterwards a light fair wind sprang up, freshening as we slipped along the coast. The heat is now becoming oppressive, and I did not sleep well last night.

[Chapters III, IV and V concern events in Australia and have not been digitised for the ENZB]