1852 - Barrett, A. The Life of the Rev. John Hewgill Bumby - CHAPTER VI. MISSION LIFE.

August 20th, 1839.

MY letters, under the dates of April 10th and May 4th, would inform you, that it was the opinion of the brethren here, that, as such a vigorous effort had been made by the Committee, in sending out so many additional Missionaries, something should immediately be attempted to meet the wants and wishes of the numerous tribes of the south of the island; and also, that we had been unsuccessful in our endeavours to obtain a suitable vessel for the conveyance of our families, as well as unable to induce natives to accompany us on a tour of

observation and inquiry over-land. Soon after my last communication, the "Hokianga," a small vessel which has sometimes been employed for Missionary purposes, came into the bay; and we were informed by the proprietors, that she was about to proceed to Kawia for a cargo, but might be at our service for a few weeks. On the reception of this intelligence, it was proposed that I and Mr. Hobbs should avail ourselves of the opportunity of going round by the east coast, through Cook's-Straits and Taranaki, to Kawia; from which place, it was suggested, we might manage to travel over-land to Mangungu. I hesitated some time, in consequence of the time which would be occupied, and the expense which would be incurred, by such an excursion. But, remembering the instructions of the Committee, directing me to obtain all possible information as to the state of the island; and considering the necessity which rests upon us, to extend our evangelical operations to the regions beyond, where nothing has hitherto been attempted; together with the importance of seeing the country, in order to the selection of the most suitable locality for a new station; I ultimately determined, in company with Mr. Hobbs, to undertake the expedition. Mr. Turner, though exceedingly anxious to remove to the colony, kindly engaged to remain at Mangungu till our return.

On Monday morning, May 11th, having resigned our families, and committed ourselves, to the protection and care of our heavenly Father, we left Mangungu for the Bay of Islands. Our retinue was composed of about twenty youths, chiefly southern natives, taken in war. Many of them had lived for years with the Missionaries, and, having experienced the grace of God in truth, had long wished and prayed for an opportunity to return to their brethren and friends, to tell them how great things the Lord had done for them, and that He had had mercy upon them. We were detained several days in the bay,

by rough weather and contrary winds. Soon after the commencement of the voyage, having a heavy head-sea to contend with, all became sick. The New-Zealanders are ill fitted to endure affliction: they generally abandon themselves to despondency and inactivity, like persons for whom there is no help and no hope. We passed Wakari, or White-Island. It is volcanic, and abounds with fine sulphur. Tradition says of this island, that when Mawe, the principal god of the country, first saw fire, he incautiously took it up in his hands, which so severely scorched him, that, in his agony, he plunged into the sea, and there immediately appeared this island. The aspect of the country is rocky; and woody hills of different shapes and elevations rise, ridge behind ridge, till their broken summits appear to mingle with the clouds of the sky. After being about a week at sea, we encountered a tremendous gale of wind from the southwest. Without any previous intimation, except a tedious calm, the heavens looked angry and threatening. Dark masses of contending clouds cast portentous shadows upon the surrounding ocean, which began to heave and toss as if the springs and fountains which are concealed in the heart of the earth had been agitated and disturbed. Most faces gathered paleness; and, with the exception of the fearful war of the elements, no sound was heard, but an occasional mandate from the Captain to the men. As the little vessel rose up to the heavens, and went down again to the depths, it was impossible not to think, that any moment she might go to pieces, and leave us a helpless wreck on the extended and unsheltered waters. But, by the good providence of our God, who holds the winds in His fist, and the waters in the hollow of His hand, we were preserved in safety; and devoutly offered up our praises to Him that "maketh the storm a calm, so that the waves thereof are still," "for His mercy endureth for ever."

At the East-Cape, we were detained a week by adverse winds: Wari Kahika, or Hick's-Bay, was our place of shelter. We met with comparatively few natives; war, the curse and scourge of New-Zealand, having swept away, as with the besom of destruction, the once numerous population of this part of the country. When the Napui tribes first got fire-arms and ammunition, they came to try their skill upon the unarmed and unfortunate people of this neighbourhood. Many were captured, and multitudes killed, and cooked, and eaten. Some years ago there was a large pah on the summit of one of the hills which overlooks the bay. It is said the place was besieged till the inhabitants were compelled to feed upon each other; that families exchanged children, that they might not eat their own offspring; and that about three thousand persons were cut off.

The Church Missionaries have some Native Teachers usefully employed in this part of the island. The natives we saw, amounting to two or three hundred, were particularly anxious for religious books. I know nothing that more satisfactorily and delightfully indicates the commencement of brighter and better days for New-Zealand, than the earnest desire which is everywhere manifested, among all classes of the people, for books and Missionaries.

Upon arriving at Wanganuiatera, or Port-Nicholson, we went on shore, near a kainga, or "village;" and were met on the beach by a grotesque party of natives, some bedaubed with red-ochre and oil, and others disfigured about the cheeks and eye-brows with congealed blood. They, however, were delighted to see us, and gave us a hearty welcome. Here some of our lads met with their relatives and friends, whom they had not seen for ten or twelve years. It was truly affecting to witness their mutual joy, though expressed after the manner of sorrow, according to the favourite tangi of the country. After

the excitement had a little subsided, we erected our tents, and partook of some refreshment: potatoes and Indian corn were the best viands the village afforded. Some of our lads having drunk water from a tapued stream, one of the Chiefs came to us, and demanded satisfaction. After a little korero, or "conversation," he agreed to remove the tapu, and listen to the Gospel. In the evening we held public service, on which occasion many speeches were delivered, both by our own lads and the natives; the former briefly stating their history since their separation from their friends, together with some particulars connected with their conversion to Christianity; and the latter asserting their ignorance, and great desire to be taught the truth as it is in Jesus. The people, either from what they have heard of Missionary operations in other parts of the island, or a special influence from God, are evidently prepared for the reception of the Gospel. I trust the time is not far distant when New-Zealand, beautiful for situation, salubrious in climate, and exuberant in soil, having a population fearing God and working righteousness, will become an eternal excellency, the joy of many generations.

Port-Nicholson is about twenty miles to the northwest of Cape-Palliser. There is about ten fathoms' water at the entrance, and room to beat in and out with any wind. The harbour is extensive, and affords excellent anchorage-ground and safe shelter for shipping. It is surrounded by a chain of beautiful hills, rising gradually from the edge of the water, partly covered with timber, and sending forth numerous streams of fresh water. We could find no river answering to the description given in the book published by the Committee of the Association for the Colonisation of New-Zealand. They say, (pages 111, 112,) on the authority of Nayti, a young Chief who was in London some time ago, that "the river Heritaoua is as broad and deep as the Thames

at London-bridge; and that it is eighty miles long." We found a narrow stream, called Heretanga, the only one at all like a river, which divides into four branches, and extends from four to ten miles into the country; but it is so shallow at the entrance, that we were almost wrecked in the whale-boat. At this place we met with a white man, the only one in the Port. He was building a boat; but, having to manufacture nails from an iron hoop, with a wood fire, proceeded but slowly with his work. The shore is skirted with numerous settlements or villages, of different dimensions, and variously fortified. The people are of milder aspect, and gentler carriage, than the natives of the north of the island.

On the Sabbath, we converted the sea-beach, opposite to one of the principal settlements, into a sanctuary; erected the boat-sail as a break-wind to shelter the Preacher; and collected the entire population of the place, with the exception of a few sick people, as a congregation. Mr. Hobbs had not proceeded far in the service before the rain came down in sufficient torrents to have dispersed any English audience; but the poor New-Zealanders, unmoved by the pelting of the pitiless shower, seemed only intent upon hearing the word of truth, the Gospel of our salvation. We met with Warepouri, a superior Chief. His person is tall and majestic; and, having his hair tastefully tied on the top of his head, and falling back all round like a diadem, and decorated with feathers, he had a savage and commanding appearance. He expressed himself as very anxious to have a Missionary, and was delighted to accept a copy of the New Testament. Wherever we went, the people said, if we would only come and settle among them, the land should be ours; and they would carry wood and water, and do all in their power, for us. Thinking the place suitable for a new station, and presuming that the Committee would sanction such a step, we tapued a piece of

land of the proprietors, two respectable Chiefs, for some blankets and fish-hooks. The tapu secures to us the privilege of purchase, if we should fix upon the place for a Missionary settlement. Having spent a week among these interesting barbarians, and furnished the lads we were about to leave as Teachers with books, slates, pencils &c., &c., for schools, we prepared to take our departure. The people showed us great kindness, bringing abundance of pigs and potatoes, as a mark of their respect and gratitude. One of the Chiefs of whom we tapued the land was anxious to rub noses; and I was obliged, with as much grace as possible, to submit to the disagreeable ceremony. Such was the love of the lads to their Missionaries, that they were almost broken-hearted at parting. They appear to be sincerely pious, and exceedingly anxious to be useful to their heathen relatives and friends. I trust they will be as lights shining in a dark place, and as showers that water the earth.

After tossing about, amidst light winds and cross seas, for thirty hours, we came to anchor in Cloudy-Bay. The appearance of the Southern Island is particularly barren and repulsive. The outer rocks rise abruptly from the sea, and are bounded by stupendous mountains covered with perpetual snow. Cloudy-Bay is extensive, and abounds with small indentations and coves, with good anchorage and shelter for shipping. The natives are not numerous. We saw about one hundred and fifty, with whom we held service. They were most importunate for books of hymns and prayers. The Europeans, belonging to the several whaling establishments of the place, are numerous: many of these, of course, have no wish for the light of the Gospel, lest the hidden things of darkness, in which they revel and delight, should be revealed, and they should be ashamed. I am persuaded, if Missionary operations were commenced here, there would be more

opposition from civilised Europeans, than from the untutored barbarians.

We next directed our course to Queen Charlotte's Sound, and had a pleasant run by moonlight. The noise of the breakers upon the rocks at the Heads is tremendous; like the sound of thunder, or the report of an earthquake. The scenery of the Sound is decidedly romantic,--as rocky and craggy, and rude and sterile, as can well be conceived. There is no land available for agricultural purposes, except a few acres in the immediate vicinity of the native settlement. There are a few patches of cultivation, gardens of potatoes and kumeras, on the sides of the precipitous and almost perpendicular mountains; but they are small and insignificant. Fish, which is abundantly plentiful, is the principal food of the natives. The place may be attractive to the whalers, but will never be the favourite locality of the farmer. There may be about fifty Europeans connected with the whaling establishments of this place; some of whom present specimens of human nature in its worst estate. Dwelling in the region of the valley of the shadow of death, they practise every species of iniquity without restraint and without concealment. The very sense of decency and propriety seems to be extinct. The very soil is polluted. The very atmosphere is tainted. A few expressed themselves as wishful to have a Missionary, that their children, by native females, might be educated; but others spoke of the New-Zealanders as being little better than the beasts that perish, and almost ridiculed the idea of their becoming Christians. One man told the natives, that if they listened to the Missionaries, they would be ruined, as they would get no more muskets and tobacco. It is, however, a pleasing circumstance, that, notwithstanding the evil influence of the European population, the natives, in general, have turned, as they term it, to the Missionary religion. Here, as at Port-Nicholson

and Cloudy-Bay, the true light has shone, teaching the people to observe the Sabbath and worship God; which they do, according to the best of their ability, twice a day. The place of bells is supplied by old musket-barrels, suspended by cords, and struck with stones. A few of the young people can read, and all are anxious to learn. As we left one place, numbers followed the boat up to their middle in water to get books. The word of the Lord is precious here. We found, in the possession of some lads, a few fragments of the translation of the New Testament, so dirty with use as to be scarcely legible; but preserved with the greatest care. One of them, having learned to write a little, and got some paper, had begun to multiply copies. I was particularly affected with the last passage transcribed, and earnestly prayed that it might be verified in the case of these interesting and promising young men:--"He which hath begun a good work in you will perform it until the day of Jesus Christ." (Phil. i. 6.) I suppose ours was the first vessel that ever visited the Sound on an errand of mercy to the natives.

The next place we visited was Mana, an island about three miles in length from north to south, rising abruptly from the sea to an elevation of about one hundred feet, except at the northern point of the eastern side, which gradually slopes to the edge of the water. It is three miles distant from the main of the Northern Island. The landing is tolerably good, and there are some native settlements along the coast. Mr. Bell, who originally purchased the property from the natives, is dead; and it is now in the possession of Mr. Peterson, of Sydney. The natives, however, have the right of residence, and the run of the land, so as to build houses, and plant potatoes, wherever they please. The island is more adapted for pasturage than cultivation. There are upon it five hundred sheep, and thirty head of cattle, the pro-

perty of Mr. Peterson. It was evening when we came to anchor, but, understanding that the Rouparaha, who is the E Ongi, or Shungi, of this part of the country, was on the island, we went on shore. The house in which we found him was larger than the generality of native habitations; but the space which served for door, window, and chimney, was so low and narrow, that it was all we could do, crawling on our hands and knees, to get through it. Two large tubs of oil stood at each end of the apartment, with immense burners, filling the place with smoke, and rendering darkness visible. About thirty natives, warriors and slaves, were laid at full length, in various directions, on the floor. The place was as hot as a stove, with an atmosphere so thick and impure, as to be scarcely breathable. The Chief expressed himself as glad to see us, pressed us to sit near him, and wished to enter into a long conversation; but, after singing and prayer, we were glad to make our exit, giving him to understand, that at our next meeting we would more fully state the object of our visit. The old man has been a great warrior, and is notoriously vicious in his habits. He sometimes lays his hand upon his stomach, and says, "I am hungry for a man: go and kill such a slave for me." On one occasion, some little time ago, a young woman having offended him, he ordered her to prepare a native oven, which being finished, he had her killed and cooked in it. The next morning he came on board to breakfast, and behaved with great propriety. He said, if he might have a Missionary, he would give over fighting, and with all his people would begin to serve God. We presented him with a copy of the New Testament, and left him one of our most pious and clever lads as a Teacher. I trust the young man, whose name is Paul, will maintain his integrity, and be a burning and a shining light.

After a pleasant run of twelve miles, we came to

Kapiti, or Entry-Island. It is higher and more extensive than Mana; but, apparently, less valuable, being thickly wooded, and much broken by deep gullies, and dark ravines. There are upwards of eighty white men connected with the whaling establishments of the neighbourhood. The natives are scanty and scattered, and more barbarous than the generality of their countrymen. The influenza has been prevalent lately, and they have obstinately refused to take medicine; in consequence of which many have died. Instead of nursing their sick, they remove them into the bush to die. Truly the dark places of the earth are still full of the habitations of cruelty.

The Haupapa, or Mount-Egmont, which is said to be eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, presented a most splendid appearance, being girded with clouds and capped with snow. We spent a few hours at Ngamotou or Moturoa, the Sugar-loaf Islands of Captain Cook. They are curiously-formed rocks, separated from the main land, and inaccessible except by water. One of them, the largest and most singular of the cluster, rising almost perpendicularly to an elevation of about two hundred feet, is the site of a native settlement. Round about the rock are numerous ridges and holes, which serve as terraces and habitations for the singular people who have chosen it as their craggy home. The fences, on the top and sides, appeared like reeds shaken with the wind. It is said there is water, but no fuel for fire, and no food for sustenance. We called at the base of the mountain, but could not land, on account of the breaking of the surf. Several natives came down to speak with us; but they were armed with muskets, and evidently afraid we had visited them for purposes of war and desolation. We stated our object, gave them some books, and returned to the ship. We went on shore at Taranaki, but could not spend

much time in exploring the country, as there was no secure shelter for the vessel; and, the wind being fair, we were anxious to prosecute our voyage. Taranaki has long been renowned for its rich and prolific soil; there are thousands of acres of beautiful country, unbroken by mountains, and unencumbered by forests, fit at once for the plough of the husbandman. The superior quality of the soil is unequivocally demonstrated by the luxuriance of the vegetation with which it is overspread. Various vegetables, the seeds of which may have been promiscuously scattered, are flourishing in as good condition, as though they were most assiduously cultivated. Taranaki has long been famous, in the history of New-Zealand, for its numerous population. The soil, without much labour, producing abundance of food, the natives multiplied, and excelled in the manufacture of mats, and other articles of value. These advantages rendered them the objects of the perpetual jealousy and envy of the other tribes of the island, who so relentlessly and repeatedly waged war against them, and so frequently and completely conquered them, that the land is now well-nigh left without inhabitants. The remnants and fragments that remain, scattered and peeled, have been obliged to seek for shelter on the tops of mountains, and in the holes of rocks. Numerous ruined fortifications and desolated villages are pointed out to the traveller, as the melancholy monuments of the ravages of war. O, when will the time come, when the interesting aborigines of this beautiful country will beat their swords into ploughshares, and their spears into pruning-hooks, and become the free and happy subjects of the Prince of peace? We were much disappointed in finding no good harbour in the neighbourhood of Taranaki. From Kapiti to Kawia, a distance of two hundred miles, there are no bays for shelter, and no ground for anchoring ships. This materially detracts from the value of the locality as a place

for commerce. If the land should become the property of European settlers, supplies of goods must be conveyed an immense distance overland, which will be both difficult and expensive.

When we came to anchor in the Kawia harbour, our engagement with the Captain terminated; and, without regret, we quitted the little vessel, in which we had experienced many mercies, and had likewise been exposed to many perils, and subjected to many privations. We were heartily welcomed at the Mission-house, by Mr. and Mrs. Whiteley. It is a privilege which none but those who go down to the sea in ships, and do business in the great waters, can properly estimate, after a tedious and perilous voyage to return to the security and comfort of domestic life. Well is it said in one of the Psalms, "Then are they glad because they be quiet; so He bringeth them unto their desired haven."

Kawia is half a mile broad at the entrance, with about three fathoms' water on the bar. There are many sandbanks and mud-flats in the river, which are uncovered at low water. Several small streams of fresh water run into the principal channel. The banks are partly rocky and sandy, and partly covered with fern and timber, presenting here and there a beautiful patch of sloping land ready for cultivation. The natives chiefly reside in the luxuriant valleys, and by the tributary streams which are connected with the harbour. There are two or three Europeans on the river, who are friendly with the Missionary, and favourable to the spread of Christianity.

The Mission at Kawia was commenced in May, 1835, under the patronage and protection of Haupokia, a renowned warrior and influential Chief. A piece of land had previously been purchased for a Missionary settlement, which, though not very extensive, is well situated. After twelve months' arduous labour and extreme peril during which period a dwelling-house and chapel were

erected, and an impression favourable to Christianity extensively produced upon the surrounding population, Mr. Whiteley, the Missionary, for certain reasons connected with the general work, was removed to another station. The Heathen raged, the people imagined a vain thing; and it seemed probable that the cause of truth and righteousness, so recently introduced, and so feebly operating, would come to a perpetual end. But a church had been formed, against which the gates of hell were not permitted to prevail; and when Mr. Whiteley returned, about six months ago, after an absence of upwards of three years, he found the house and chapel standing, together with a small number of Christian natives, the fruit of his former labours, walking in the fear of the Lord, and in the comfort of the Holy Ghost, who hailed his return as the messenger of the churches, and the lover of their souls. The work is prosperous and promising.

The movements on Saturday indicated that the Sabbath was at hand. Multitudes of natives, from different places, some over the mountains on foot, and some by water in canoes, arrived at the settlement, to be ready for keeping holiday. I was present while Mr. Whiteley took down the names of a large number of persons as candidates for Christian baptism: they were well recommended by their Leaders, as having met in class for some time, and given satisfactory proof of a work of grace upon their hearts. In the evening, Mr. Hobbs preached to a numerous and deeply-interested congregation. The Sabbath was a most interesting day. The chapel was crowded at all the services. Many were deeply affected. I assisted in the baptism of sixty-eight adults, male and female, who publicly renounced Heathenism, and professed their faith in the Christian's God. Many of them were parents; and, not content with consecrating themselves, they also gave their offspring to the Lord. Twenty-nine children were solemnlv dedicated to the Triune

Jehovah. Thus several households subscribed with their hands to the Lord God of Israel. It was a sight which an angel might stop in his flight to admire, and which Jesus would smile to behold. In the evening, I preached in English, to about half a dozen people; after which, we partook of the sacrament of the Lord's supper, and found it good thus to remember our Divine Saviour.

During our sojourn at Mr. Whiteley's, it was proposed that we should go over to Mokou, to endeavour to prevent a war. Ngatapu, a Chief of some rank in the neighbourhood of Kawia, had gathered together his friends, and was going to seek satisfaction from Touni and Tariki, Chiefs of Mokou, for some insult they had offered to him. A few days before, an old Chief had remarked, in the presence of one of Mr. Whiteley's boys, that, if the Missionaries did not interfere, and effect a reconciliation, there would be such slaughter and bloodshed, that it would be difficult to find fire-wood to cook the multitudes that would be slain. It was a formidable undertaking, particularly in connexion with the tremendous journey home which we had in prospect; but the object contemplated was so important, and the Christian natives were so anxious for us to interfere, that I knew not how we should be justified, as the Ministers of the Gospel of peace, if we refused to attempt, at least, to induce the people, to whom we were sent, to cast away their weapons of war, and learn to love as brethren, and so fulfil the law of Christ. We were a week in performing the journey; and, having to traverse dense forests, and climb rugged mountains, and cross extensive swamps, and ford deep rivers, in the midst of heavy rains and cold winds, the task was neither easy nor pleasant. At a heathen village called Padianiwaniwa, or "the Precipice of the Rainbow," we unexpectedly had the opportunity of witnessing some of the singular customs of the country. A man of our party, who was

baptized the preceding Sunday at Kawia, by the name of Matiu, had, about twelve months before, lost four children. A man called Mahiri was reported to have occasioned their death by witchcraft; and so firmly did the bereaved father believe the report, that he determined to have the man's life as payment. Mahiri, however, escaped for his life to Padianiwaniwa, and was kindly received by the people, who built a small fortification for him, and cut off all communication between the two places by tapuing the road. The path had not been travelled from that period, and was, consequently, well-nigh lost amidst rank vegetation and luxuriant foliage. Tidings of our approach speedily circulated through the settlement, and Mahiri and his friends were much alarmed, and afraid that Matiu had come for utu, or "satisfaction." The parties met in due form, and after certain horrid grimaces, and hideous yells, together with a drawling ditty called singing, on the part of the Heathens, Matiu stood forth and said, "My words to you are about Jesus Christ. Let the matter be finished. Jesus Christ shall be the Peacemaker between us." Thus a reconciliation was effected, and the whole ceremony concluded with a tangi and a feast. The tangi is a "crying match," in which each tries to outdo his fellow in making frightful faces and uttering whimpering sounds. The feast was chiefly of potatoes, four bushels of which we saw cooked in one oven, besides large quantities of greens and Indian corn. Having nothing better, we were obliged to strike a tin dish with a stone, to call the people together for worship. It is to be hoped that the several religious services which we held, and in which all appeared to be much interested, may have been instrumental in inducing them to renounce their superstitions, and attend to the things which belong to their peace.

Having arrived at Padupadu, the residence of Touni and Taiiki, we found them sitting in state, ornamented

with white feathers, in barbarous taste, and surrounded by numerous other Chiefs, their friends; who had assembled from different places to help them on the great occasion. They were all Heathens; and said, they would resist every attack to death, to death, to death. While we were present, a message from the party seeking satisfaction was communicated to the council of war, which so excited the feelings of their savage nature, that in fierceness and defiance they distorted their faces into the most hideous forms, brandished their spears with the most menacing wildness, uttered the most horrid yells, and appeared more like incarnate fiends than human beings. By and by they simultaneously arose, and went to prepare cartridges and muskets for an engagement. It was, however, finally arranged, that we should endeavour to negotiate the business; and that if we could induce Ngatapu's party to avoid hostilities, and fire their muskets at a distance from the pah, they would meet as friends. Mr. Whiteley immediately went to meet the advancing army, and, after a long conference with the warriors, succeeded in bringing them to the agreement, that, since we, the Missionaries, had interfered, they would not proceed to extremities. We, that is, I and Mr. Hobbs, remained with the threatened party; who, armed with muskets, hatchets, and spears, assembled upon the hill where the pah is built, to await the arrival of the enemy. When Ngatapu's people came up, headed by Mr. Whiteley, they arranged themselves upon a hill opposite to that upon which the fortification stands. In the valley, between the two armies, waved the flag of peace, a white handkerchief tied to a pole, by the side of which, as the Ministers of reconciliation, we stood. I shall never forget the occasion: hundreds of savages, fighting men, appeared on either side, most of them naked, except their belt and cartridge-box, and all ready for action at a moment's notice. It was understood,

that the circumstance of either party crossing the boundary, should be regarded by the other as the signal for immediate war. In the general rush, however, in which there was much savage violence, we succeeded in keeping them apart. Then followed the firing of muskets among the surrounding hills, and a war-dance, which literally shook the ground on which we stood. From all we heard and saw of the spirit and temper of the respective tribes, the conviction is not to be resisted, that, had we not interposed, much blood would have been shed, and many lives would have been lost. It is probable, also, that the addresses which were delivered, and the devotional services which were conducted, during our visit, may have left a blessing behind them, which shall be found after many days.

In returning, we spent a Sabbath at Teitu, an extensive village in the midst of a dense forest; where the majority of the inhabitants, through the instrumentality of Native Teachers, have embraced Christianity. They have built a commodious chapel, in which service is held, not merely on the Sabbath, but every day in the week. The place is so remote from Kawia, that Mr. Whiteley had not been able before to visit it. The services we held were interesting and profitable. Twenty-one couples were united in the bonds of holy matrimony; but, having no rings, these interesting appendages were necessarily dispensed with. Thirty children and sixty-two adults, of both sexes, many of whom had met in class from the period of Mr, Whiteley's removal from Kawia, which is several years ago, were baptized. It is likely our visit will never be forgotten by the young men and maidens, the old men and children, who, on that occasion, renounced Heathenism, and were solemnly baptized in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost.

At Wangaroa we spent a few days. The situation of the Mission-station is excellent, and the population

numerous. There is an extensive and very promising field of usefulness. William Naylor, Mr. Wallis's principal Chief, has been a savage warrior, but, having embraced the Gospel of Christ, has become as gentle as a child. At his village, a little way from the Missionary settlement, he has built the largest and most respectable place of worship I have seen in the country.

Waikato, Manukou, and Kaipara, lay in our way home; and at each place we met with many things worthy of notice and record; but having, I fear, already wearied you by the length of my details, I shall reserve any additional remarks I may have to make, for some future communication.

Upon reaching Mangungu, we were exceedingly fatigued and exhausted; but having been mercifully preserved, and graciously sustained, amidst the unrecorded and innumerable hardships and perils of the journey, and finding our families in health, and the Society in prosperity, we offered to God the sacrifice of praise, and renewed our vows to spend and be spent in the work of preaching among the Gentiles the unsearchable riches of Christ.

MANGUNGU, December 20th, 1839.

REVEREND AND DEAR SIRS,--Having for some time contemplated a visit to Horuru to see the infant church there, and baptize some natives, who, on account of old age and numerous infirmities, were said to be unable to come to Mangungu, a distance of about sixty miles, when the business of the District-Meeting was over, I induced Mr. Whiteley to accompany me, in connexion with Mr.

Ironside and Mr. Creed. An opportunity of sending to England offering, I forward a brief account of our expedition, particularly with the view of bringing Wangaroa, our first Missionary settlement in New-Zealand, before the attention of the Committee, as a place which I would very much like to have again enrolled in our list of Stations.

The first evening, after pulling hard for four hours, we arrived at the top of the Mangamuka river, where we left the boat hauled up on the bank, and walked through some beautiful plantations of potatoes and kumeras to Rotopipinai, an interesting settlement of Christian natives, with whom we held service, and spent the night. A hut was given up to us; but it was so small and disagreeable, that I made choice of the outside as my sleeping-place. The following morning, many of the Rotopipinai people accompanied us, so that we formed a numerous and respectable party. Soon after the commencement of the journey, the bottles of heaven were opened, and the rain came down in the most drenching torrents, which, together with the immense mountains we had to climb, and a deep river which had to be crossed about twenty times, rendered travelling rather laborious and disagreeable work. In the afternoon we arrived at the first native settlement, where, with some difficulty, we procured a house, about six feet square and four feet high, in the middle of which we kindled a fire; by which, having wrapped ourselves in blankets, we dried our wet clothes, and boiled the tea-kettle. Having taken food, we were refreshed, and forgot our toil and weariness in travelling up the valley: while we were delighted with the richness of the soil, and the loveliness of the scenery, sorrow filled our hearts in observing several ruined fortifications and desolated villages, from which it was evident, that the population was once much more numerous than at present. About noon we arrived at the chapel, a commodious and substantial native building, which stands in the midst of

the valley, as the house of God and the gate of heaven. The people of the surrounding settlements were soon collected, and, having long expected our visit, were delighted to see us. After partaking of some refreshment, we held service, and baptized about thirty children. In the evening we married about forty couples, and met the adult candidates for baptism, whose simple statements of their feelings and desires left no room to doubt that they were not far from the kingdom of God. At a late hour, and very weary, we lay down in a corner of the chapel, to court "tired nature's sweet restorer;" but the crying of children, and the coughing of invalids within, and the noisy conversations of natives without, which were continued all night, rendered it very difficult to sleep. Early the next morning we held service, on which occasion Mr. Whiteley preached, and I administered the rite of Christian baptism to about sixty persons of both sexes and all ranks, from Chieftains to slaves. It was a delightful season; for the Lord of hosts was present, and shed upon us of the choicest of His influences. With Mr. Whiteley, I visited an old Chief who was in dying circumstances. He said he believed in Jesus Christ, and wished to have a new heart. At his request, we baptized him, and administered to him the sacrament. I trust he will be found a brand plucked out of the fire.

After taking food, we proceeded to Wangaroa, by way of Mongonui, the Doubtless-Bay of Captain Cook, where we met with a European, who kindly lent us his boat in which to cross the harbour. We were informed that the Roman Catholic Bishop has purchased some extensive tracts of land in this neighbourhood. Night overtook us in the midst of an immense common, where there was no shelter from the inclemency of the weather, and on the side of a deep river, which the natives said it would be dangerous to attempt to cross in the dark. It was a desert place indeed. We felt ourselves to be in trying circum-

stances. It had rained hard all day, and we were almost benumbed with wet and cold. By and by, however, we succeeded in getting a fire, partook of some tea and potatoes, committed ourselves to the care of "the Keeper of Israel, who neither slumbereth nor sleepeth," and lay down beneath some bushes for the night. Though the rain frequently and heavily descended upon us, and the night was one of the most gloomy I ever spent, by the blessing of God, we sustained no injury, except feeling a little cold and stiff in the morning. Those symptoms, however, soon wore off as we prosecuted our journey; and we rejoiced in being accounted worthy to suffer hardship in seeking the salvation of souls, and for the name of the Lord Jesus. In the evening we arrived at a beautiful little settlement on the side of a fruitful hill, commanding an extensive prospect, where the natives offered one of their best huts for our accommodation, and pressed us to tarry for the night. We had intended to go to Wangaroa; but, thinking we might perhaps be useful to this hospitable people, and feeling exceedingly weary, we accepted their seasonable offer. Tidings of our visit quickly circulated through the neighbourhood, so that in the morning we had a large congregation of natives from the surrounding villages, to whom we ministered the word of life.

In walking over to Wangaroa, I was pleasingly surprised to find so many natives scattered throughout the valley. From the representations of Mr. Turner and others, I had been led to suppose that the place was well-nigh depopulated, and had become a scene of cheerless desolation. There are, undoubtedly, fewer inhabitants than formerly. The people of the Chief George, who, in 1810, murdered and ate the crew of the ship "Boyd;" who, in 1824, attacked the "Endeavour" schooner, and threatened to take away the lives of Messrs. Tyerman and Bennet, representatives of the London Missionary

Society; and who, in 1825, plundered and destroyed the brig "Mercury;" together with their conquerors and successors, the people of the warrior E Ongi; who, in 1827, attacked the Mission-premises, plundered the property, and drove away the Missionaries and their families, with the loss of everything but life;--all these parties, in the righteous providence of God, have passed into eternity; but there are their children, a goodly number, who, it is to be hoped, will be a seed to serve the Lord, a generation to call Him blessed. When Mr. Turner visited the place two years ago, he went in a boat from Mr. M'Lever's house, by the Wangaroa harbour, so that he could not judge correctly as to the population; besides, recollections of past labours and hardships undoubtedly led him to take an unnecessarily gloomy view of the state of things; whereas, we travelled overland, and from all I saw of the natives, both as it respects their numbers and dispositions, I am prepared to recommend most strenuously, that Wangaroa should again be occupied as a Wesleyan Mission-station. The property, though not extensive, is valuable; and is universally acknowledged to belong to our Society, and invariably spoken of by the natives as "Mr. Turner's kainga." After calling upon a few respectable Europeans, who are resident in the valley, and holding service with as many of the natives as could be got together, and walking over Wesleydale, which, though deserted, has upon it so many fruit-trees and flowering shrubs, that it appears beautiful in ruins, we returned to the village where we had spent the preceding evening, earnestly desiring, and fervently praying, that the candlestick which has been removed from Wangaroa, may be speedily replaced, and kindled to greater brightness and brilliancy than ever.

The next day, after toiling through dense forests, and wading, sometimes up to the knees, and sometimes up to the chest, over extensive rivers, in the midst of steeping

torrents of rain, we encamped for the night, built a house of nikau, made a bed of fern, and, having kindled a large fire were as comfortable as could be expected in such a place and in such circumstances. The following evening, after an absence of eight days, we arrived at Mangungu, as wet and dirty and weary, as rain and mire and hard walking could make us; but, by the blessing of God, we were in tolerable health, and not at all disheartened by the hardships we had met with: determined to spend and be spent in the blessed work of "making all men see what is the fellowship of the mystery, which from the beginning was hid in God, that the Gentiles should be fellow-heirs and partakers of His promise in Christ by the Gospel." It was rather an unfavourable specimen of New-Zealand travelling for Mr. Ironside and Mr. Creed; but they bore the seasoning remarkably well, and will, I doubt not, in a short time, be accomplished pedestrians. It is an indispensable qualification for a New-Zealand Missionary, that he should be a good walker.
I am, Rev. and dear Sirs,
Yours most affectionately,
JOHN H. BUMBY.
To the General Secretaries of the Wesleyan Missionary Society.

KAIPARA, February 11th, 1840.

MY last informed you that, in accordance with the appointment of the District-Meeting, I was about to undertake a journey overland to Port-Nicholson, in Cook's-Straits, in order to make preliminary arrangements for the formation of a new station on a spot which had been previously fixed on by Mr. Bumby. Through the infinite goodness and mercy of our heavenly Father, I have the happiness to inform you that, after a period of nearly three months' absence, I have returned in health and safety to the bosom of my dear family and friends, and the people of my charge. Mr. Creed had the care of this station during my absence; and I find my family, and the affairs of the settlement, in every respect as could be wished. For this, as well as for my own preservation, and the many other blessings daily bestowed upon me, I cannot be sufficiently thankful unto that gracious Being who "performeth all things for us." To travel upwards of five hundred miles in a country like New-Zealand, is a journey, it will be supposed, which cannot be unattended with privation and toil. I found it so. Those who are accustomed to traverse only the well-defined and even roads of our native country, can form but a very inadequate idea of this. Imagine one trembling on precipices, climbing mountains, traversing wilds, plunging through bogs, wading rivers, penetrating dense, impervious forests, now drenched with rain, then burning in the sun, and travelling sometimes for days

without meeting a single individual,--and you have some conception of a long journey in New-Zealand. But, long and tedious as it was, the occasion was not devoid of interest. To the mere lover of nature, the diversified scenery and very romantic character of this highly-interesting country, would have afforded an ample compensation for his toil. To the Christian traveller, who can "look through nature up to nature's God," the effect is greatly heightened; for, while pursuing his solitary route, and admiring the inimitable beauties of the scene, with filial adoration, he can say, "My Father made them all." But to the Christian Missionary it is fraught with interest of the highest kind. I felt that I was employed on an important and a glorious errand, and happily realised the heavenly presence of Him who hath declared to his servants, "Lo, I am with you alway, even to the end of the world." And above all was I delighted by the pleasing prospects which I beheld among the people wherever I arrived. They far exceeded my most sanguine expectations. As a Missionary, I was hailed with every expression of delight and demonstration of joy. The desire of the people for religious instruction is very general, and their importunity for books even troublesome: "Give me a book, give me a book," was the cry reiterated in my ears at whatever place I visited. Their apparent joy at my appearance among them could not have arisen from the hope of receiving any pecuniary benefit; for that they did not expect or receive: but afforded a practical comment on Isaiah lii. 7, "How beautiful upon the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good tidings, that publisheth peace; that bringeth good tidings of good, that publisheth salvation; that saith unto Zion, Thy God reigneth!"

As far as Kawia, I was favoured with the company of Mr. Whiteley, who was returning home from our District-Meeting. I spent several days with him and Mr. Wallis

on their respective stations at Wangaroa and Kawia, and was greatly encouraged at beholding the success of their labours in those places. The work of the Lord is in great prosperity around them. Leaving Kawia, I proceeded by an inland route (as being the nearest) to Wanganui, on the sea-coast, on my way to Port-Nicholson. My course led me quite into the heart of the country; and for several days I travelled over a tract of land of the richest description, which, for fertility and beauty, can scarcely be surpassed. I passed through several villages in connexion with Mr. Whiteley's station, at each of which the people had renounced "the hidden works of darkness," and had erected a sanctuary for the Lord of hosts. But as we drew nearer to Taupo, (which lies nearly in the centre of the northern island,) the country assumed another aspect: for the most part it was barren and desolate, and altogether depopulated. It was once occupied by a numerous tribe, of whose residence, however, no monument remains but that of their ruined fortifications. War has spread its desolating influence; and, in answer to the inquiry, "Where are the people who formerly lived here?" you are informed, " They have been killed and eaten, enslaved, or driven away." Blessed be God, the Gospel of peace has triumphed oyer the demon of war, and they have in general learned to "beat their swords into ploughshares, and their spears into pruning-hooks." I thought this prophecy remarkably fulfilled, when, as was frequently the case, I saw the barrel of a musket used as a bell to summon the people of the village to the house of prayer. I met one morning a party of about forty persons, principally Chiefs from the neighbourhood of Taupo, on their way to the Mission-stations for books and instruction.

I spent a Sabbath on the north side of Taupo, on which occasion I was highly gratified. We had been

travelling several days over a desolate country; the Sabbath dawned upon us; and my poor lads, having consumed their food, now complained of hunger. We had the prospect of being at least three days without food, did we pursue our direct course; but there was a small village within half a day's journey on our right; and, though Sunday, I felt compelled to make towards it. We therefore followed its direction, but without the semblance of a path to indicate our approach to the abode of man. After a very toilsome walk, we arrived at this solitary place. It was a most sequestered spot: its situation lay at the foot of a lofty and woody mountain, named Titiraupenga, and was concealed from view by a dense and noble forest, stretching out before it. In this lonely place about twenty individuals reside. It was originally selected, as its appearance would indicate, as a place of refuge from the ravages of war. I had no idea of meeting with any appearance of Christianity here; but my surprise was only equalled by my delight, when, as emerging from the dark shades of the dreary forest, the sonorous responses of this isolated people fell upon my ears: they were worshipping the God of heaven and of earth! They received me gladly, and I had an opportunity of unfolding to them the great truths of the Gospel, and supplying them with a few books. These people, like many others, have been persuaded to "turn from idols to serve the living and true God," through the instrumentality of our converted natives. On the following day several of them accompanied us through the wood, where we found two more villages, the inhabitants of which were inquiring after the God of their salvation. They were, in general, exceedingly poor; their huts, their clothes, &c., being of a very inferior kind; but they are seeking after the "true riches."

On the ensuing Wednesday we found ourselves at Taupo. Taupo is a magnificent lake, covering a surface

of at least two hundred miles. It is evidently the effect of a violent volcanic eruption at some remote period. Its neighbourhood abounds with hot springs and boiling pools; and the stupendous volcanic mountain, Tongariro, is still in action, sending forth its smoky volumes. The country in this part is very mountainous. Adjacent to Tongariro is the snowy mountain, Ruapaka, or Paretataitonga, whose crested summit, rising into the clouds, is discernible from the sea on either coast. Shocks of earthquakes are frequently felt at Taupo; but the natives, little conscious of the cause, have been in the habit of regarding them as tokens of fruitful seasons.........

The next Sabbath I spent at a populous village on a smaller lake, to the west of Taupo. The people had never before been visited by an European, nor did they know much of Christianity. They, however, listened with apparent attention to the "words of eternal life;" and I distributed some books among them. I had not been long in this village, when a Chief entered my tent with an expression of earnestness depicted on his countenance, and said, "Give me a book." He then, directing my attention to his arms, which had been dreadfully lacerated, proceeded to tell me that he had been long serving the evil spirit, but had ever been deceived; and now that I had come, he was determined to renounce the devil, and have recourse to Jesus Christ, and had therefore come for a book. He had lately lost an infant child, which was the occasion of his arms being so cut; and his wife was now in a lingering condition. He had had recourse to every remedy suggested by the superstitions of the Priests; but, despairing of success, was now determined to abandon his "refuge of lies." I went to see his wife, whom I found labouring under consumptive illness. I gave her some medicine, and trust the Lord would overrule the circumstance for their good. What a picture of degradation does human nature exhibit, when

we are introduced to a knowledge of the debasing superstitions which enthral the heathen mind, "without hope, and without God in the world!"

Leaving Rotoaera, (the name of the last-mentioned lake,) we travelled nearly five days without meeting a single inhabitant, or the vestige of a dwelling. Our road lay partly along the foot of the snow-clad mountain, but chiefly through an extensive and uneven forest, whose close umbrageous foliage rendered it almost impenetrable, even to the solar rays. This forest led us to the winding and rapid river of Wanganui, whence our road lay along the sea-coast to Port-Nicholson. Although in the interior the population is so thin, here the people are very numerous; along the coast, from Wanganui to Waikanae, inclusive, a distance of about sixty miles over a beautifully level and sandy beach, intersected by several small rivers, there are, at the very lowest computation, three thousand souls, and among them the same prevailing desire for religious instruction and books. I found a number of neat chapels, in which they statedly assemble for worship: numbers of them could read well, and many had learned to write. Of course, much rudeness and ignorance still exist among them; but, considering their circumstances, having never been favoured with the instructions of an European Missionary, I could not but think them to be in a very pleasing and promising condition, and was often led to say, "Behold, the fields are white unto harvest." I was received by them as a messenger from God; and could I have gratified their wishes by sojourning awhile at each village, my journey would have been protracted indeed. This pleasing change is but of recent date, and was effected through the instrumentality of means apparently the most inefficient. Previous to the visit of Messrs. Bumby and Hobbs, about nine months ago, no European Missionary had ever been in this neighbourhood, or among any of this people; but

a few of them had accidentally been placed in the vicinity of the Mission-stations, (such as slaves formerly dragged away from their home and friends,) and had since returned, and, like the woman of Samaria, had invited their friends and neighbours to an acquaintance with the Saviour of the world. Thus, in the spirit of inquiry do they accost us, in effect saying, "Sir, we would see Jesus." Truly, "it is the Lord's doing, and it is marvellous in our eyes." But Satan is not idle: he has been endeavouring to restore his falling kingdom, by exciting the tribes to war. Some disputed land was the original cause of bad feeling between two tribes; and, with the intention of extirpation, one came upon the other before dawn, while they were asleep; a sharp engagement ensued, about sixty lives were lost, and the aggressors were defeated. The Rev. H. Williams, who arrived here in the Church-Mission schooner just afterwards, succeeded in establishing peace; and I trust the arch-enemy is foiled, though the parties are still very suspicious of each other. Mr. Hadfield, of the Church Mission, has fixed his residence with one of those tribes. I called on him, and he received me very courteously. But "what is one among so many?"

I spent a day on the island of Kapiti, and then proceeded to Port-Nicholson. On my arrival there, I learnt that the land which had been formerly agreed on by Mr. Bumby as the site of a Mission-station, had been disposed of to the "New-Zealand Land Company." But, on inquiry, it appeared that the actual proprietors of that spot had not sold, or agreed to sell; but that certain other Chiefs had undertaken to sell the entire harbour, &c., and apportion the payment according to the right possessed by the different claimants. The proprietors of the "Aro" (the name of the place in question) had not signed the deed, nor consented to the sale: only two out of the six had taken the payment. A house had been

built on the place for us, and they were very anxious for me to remain among them.

Port-Nicholson is a very fine harbour for shipping, and affords a very eligible site for a town; but the land available for agriculture around it is exceedingly limited. The natives are not numerous, but are well-disposed towards Christianity. The "New-Zealand Land Company" claim the entire harbour, &c., reserving one-tenth for the benefit of the natives; and it will undoubtedly be very shortly peopled by Europeans. The "Aurora," with one hundred and eighty emigrants, arrived while I was there, to whom I had an opportunity of preaching on board the ship. I hope they may prove a pretty well ordered community. I was happy to perceive among them a prevailing desire to be near a Mission-station. Many of them, however, appeared to labour under very serious misapprehension on account of the natives; and some observed to me, "If there be not an English Missionary here, I do not know what will become of us." It is certainly of great importance, that a Missionary, understanding the language, feelings, &c., of the natives, should be there at this critical period, both for the sake of the colonists and the aborigines, and especially to operate as a check against any collision taking place between them; for the sudden arrival of such a concourse of Europeans is perfectly new and unexpected on the part of the New-Zealanders, and calculated to create concern. I felt much disposed to remain there, in order to lend my feeble services; but the circumstances of the place having so altered since I was appointed by the District-Meeting, I felt it my duty to return home, not knowing what other arrangements might be thought desirable. I intended to return by way of Taranaki, and should have been greatly gratified with a visit to the shattered tribes of that interesting portion of the land, the tragic scene of many sanguinary wars. I had an

opportunity, however, of seeing several Chiefs from that quarter, who informed me, that all the people had embraced Christianity, but were still in great fear of their old enemies; and as soon as a Missionary should settle among them, they would flock around his standard. I should have been glad to visit them; but as I expected the "Triton" would be soon at Hokianga, I embraced the opportunity of engaging a passage in the schooner "Atlas," which was bound for the Bay of Islands, whither, after six days' boisterous passage, we arrived in safety on the Sabbath morning. I spent the day at Paihia, the Church-Mission station, where I had the honour of being introduced to his Excellency Lieutenant-Governor Captain Hobson, who had a few days before arrived in H.M. frigate "The Herald." On the Monday I hastened home, by way of Hokianga; and was glad to find all our dear friends there in good health. Mr. Bumby had not returned from the colonies; but we are in daily expectation of his arrival with the "Triton," whose appearance we shall hail with gratitude and joy.

The present is certainly a very important era in the history of New-Zealand,--it is a momentous crisis,--and its political condition assumes a very serious character. Christianity has rendered it a safe residence for Europeans; which was found not to be the case a few years ago, when the original New-Zealand Land Company made a fruitless attempt to establish a colony. Enterprising men are now directing their attention to this fine country, and Europeans are flocking to it daily in considerable numbers, both from England and the colonies of New South Wales, South Australia, and Van-Diemen's Land; so that it will doubtless, ere long, be populated by white men. What may be the ultimate results, it is difficult to conjecture. Missionaries, under the present circumstances of the country, require, in a pre-eminent degree, to be "wise as serpents, and harmless as doves."

We need your prayers. I never felt more sensible, than at the present moment, of the wisdom and importance of your regulations respecting the purchasing of land by your Missionaries; and I feel quite happy that not one Wesleyan Missionary in this country possesses an inch of land. The Roman Catholic Bishop and his coadjutors here are ready to employ any means to advance and disseminate the influence of Popery. Notwithstanding all their efforts, they have not yet done much among the people, though with the utmost impudence they pretend to have proselyted to the "Catholic faith" nearly one-half of the entire population. As an antidote to their pernicious system, we have much to hope from an extensive circulation of the word of God, which is now eagerly received in every part of the land, but especially from the valuable addition to the amount of Missionary labour which I am happy to perceive you have so wisely appointed. May the Lord, in mercy, save New-Zealand from the grasp of Popery! I humbly hope, that He who is the "Governor among the nations" will overrule all passing events for His own glory, and the ultimate interests of the poor natives.