1840 - Ward J. Supplementary Information Relative to New Zealand - No. III. Despatch from Colonel Wakefield, enclosing Journal. Oct. 10, 1839.

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No. III.

Ship Tory, Cloudy Bay, October 10, 1839.
SIR,
You will receive with this a copy of my Journal up to this date, together with charts and remarks by Captain Chaffers, a report from Dr. Dieffenbach, and drawings by Mr. Heaphy, besides specimens of coal, and other productions. My intention is to plant the first settlement at Port Nicholson, where I have ordered several houses to be built. The Honduras takes this. We shall sail for the west coast to-morrow.

I am, &c.,
(Signed) WM. WAKEFIELD.

To the Secretary
of the New Zealand Company.

EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL.

Teawaiti, Queen Charlotte's Sound,
September 6, 1839.

I RESUME my journal (a copy of which, up to the 2nd instant, I sent you on that day). During the intervening time, whilst waiting for the arrival of Mr. Guard, the pilot of the Pelorus, I have had an opportunity of learning generally the origin, progress, and present condition of this settlement.

The first white man who established himself on the beach here is Mr. Guard, who, in 1827, was sailing master of a small vessel, and ran in at the south-eastern entrance of the channel in a gale of wind. He built a house, and with his companions carried on sealing and whaling with great annoyance and risk from the natives, and but little profit to themselves. At one time the natives were so

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ill-provided with potatoes and other provisions, that the white adventurers subsisted on whale's flesh and wild turnip-tops; and during many seasons, such was the want of workmen and implements, that the blubber of the whales caught was thrown away for want of casks to hold the oil; and the bone only was turned to account, when any marke dses from Otago and the neighbourhood invaded the Sound, intility to the Nyatiawa tribe, and indiscriminately burned and destroyed the houses and boats of all the residents. One Englishman, now here, who had lived occasionally apart from his countrymen, has had no less than four houses burned at various times.

Since 1831, however, when Cloudy Bay was first made use of as a port for whale-ships, both that place and the Sound have been worked by the agents of Sydney capitalists; and the shore parties, notwithstanding the scarcity of whales in the Strait, procure annually 500 tons of oil. No seals are now found hereabouts, and but very few to the southward, where they were formerly in abundance. The Sydney merchants supply casks and freight for the oil and bone, and nominally pay the fishermen 10l. per ton for the former, and 60l. per ton for the latter. The wages of the working men are paid in slops, provisions, and spirits, which are valued at an exorbitant rate. A pound of tobacco, worth 1s. in England, or 1s. 3d. in Port Jackson, is served out here at 5s., and sometimes at 7s. 6d.; and everything else in the same proportion. The men, however, sign an agreement at the beginning of each season, in which the prices of all articles are stated, so that nothing but the difficulty of going elsewhere for work obliges them to submit to these terms. A good hand in a whale-boat can earn 35l. during a fair season; but his profits depend on the success of his party, who have shares in all whales caught by them.

If the working men are thus badly compensated for their labours, the agents suffer no less from the bad debts they are obliged to make, in order to induce the former to pursue their occupation for a continuance, and by the high price set upon labour by artizans. A good carpenter or

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blacksmith earns 10s. a day, and these insist upon payment in money. The Sydney merchants embark but little capital in this trade; and as oil from the black whale sells in England for 30l., and the bone for 150l. per ton, their profits cannot be thought inadequate to the risk.

It is estimated that about 1200 tons of oil are procured annually by the shore parties in Cook's Strait and the stations on Banks's Peninsula, and further to the southward; and that the number of British in these parts is not less than 500.

During the summer these men are employed in trading on the coast with the natives for pigs and potatoes; and those who have small vessels procure supplies, which yield them large profits, by sale to the different French, American, and British whale-ships frequenting the Strait, for provisions before their season on the fishing-ground, or their voyage home. The less thrifty pass their summers in small cultivation of spots they have taken possession of, with the tacit consent of the natives; and the improvident boat-men await the renewal of their dangerous and exciting occupation, depending on the families of the native women, who live with them, for fish and potatoes, and consuming a frightful quantity of gin, so long as their credit is good with the agents.

The rivalry engendered by the nature of the whaler's occupation, and the jealousy of the native tribes fostered by the women, whose cohabitation with the white men has been the principal source of safety to the settlers in this country, produce the worst blood, and the most rancorous feelings amongst our countrymen here. Those resident in the Sound and Cloudy Bay with the Nyatiawa and Kafia tribes, who have been long in deadly contention with each other, mutually disparage their rivals; and in each place separate bays contain varying interests, and the same beach affords subsistence to individuals, whom no love of gain, nor community of danger, has, for years, been able to unite.

There are, nevertheless, some respectable men who are anxious for a better state of things to be brought about by the example of society, regulated by a better law than

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that of might. Many of their native wives are also entitled to every praise for their fidelity, care of their children, and industry, during many years of difficulty and danger, and are fit to take a very respectable station amongst European matrons.

The halfcaste race, of which there are about twenty-five at Teawaiti, is most promising. They are in general well-built and comely. None of them are darker than Italians. Many have flaxen hair and rosy complexions; and all are as active and hardy as their mother's blood and naked sea-shore existence could lead you to expect.

Our visit, and the knowledge of the probability of the arrival of settlers during the ensuing summer, have put several of the principal people here on the alert, so that no want of provisions, planking for houses and boats, or of other necessaries will be experienced. Already the natives are planting larger quantities of potatoes than usual; and the English are rearing pigs and poultry, for the purpose of supplying the emigrant-ships at Port Hardy or elsewhere. Last week the shock of an earthquake was felt in Cloudy Bay. Such an occurrence is not rare; but no injury has been experienced of late years from convulsions, although the country bears evident marks of having been subject to their action heretofore.

Mr. Guard having arrived, and my arrangements with him being made, I started this morning, accompanied by my nephew, Mr. Jerningham Wakefield, and Mr. Wynen, a settler in Cloudy Bay, to explore the Oyerri or Pelorus river, in Admiralty Bay, in order to see whether the high praises of its banks, as a place of settlement, were justified by the reality. The officers of the brig had painted in such glowing colours the beauties and qualities of the spot, that many parties in Sydney have been contemplating purchases of land in it, but hitherto no one has possessed himself of any portion of it. Mr. Wynen, who came from England a few months ago, being one of the many tired of waiting for the regular colonization of New Zealand, was equally anxious to visit the place, with a view to inform his friends at Sydney and in England of its capabilities.

We started in a strong boat with five hands, four of

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whom are natives of Cloudy Bay, and took also a young chief of the Kafia tribe, to whom the natives living in Admiralty Bay would show deference, as one of the heads of the party who had conquered them, and taken possession of their territory.

We retraced our voyage through the Channel and Sound, the two being about thirty miles in length, and rounding Point Jackson with the flood tide in the Strait to the north-west, after forty miles' sail from the ship, slept the first night in a small bay called Ikokoia, on the main, at the back of one of the Admiralty Isles. The bays and coves of New Zealand are better than any others adapted to a boating expedition. They are in general completely sheltered by mountains and timber, contain a sandy beach on which is an unlimited provision of drift-wood, fit for a camp-fire, and abundance of shell and other fish, with a stream of water trickling from the background. A few blankets and baskets of potatoes, with a pig, are all that it is necessary to bring upon these occasions.

Saturday, Sept. 7th.--Leaving our resting place at daylight, we entered by the boat entrance, at the back of Guard's Island, into the great estuary, which is found at the bottom of Admiralty Bay, into which, at the distance of forty miles from the sea, the Oyerri empties itself. On one of the mountains on the main we observed five head of cattle, part of some imported from Mana, and originally sent there from Sydney by Mr. Cowper. The estuary, or river, presents a much grander appearance than Queen Charlotte's Sound, and contains numerous fine bays, many of which are as spacious as Plymouth Sound, and perfectly sheltered, except from the flurries of wind, which come in great violence from the mountains, and would render good ground-tackle and every precaution necessary for the safety of large ships.

It is impossible to see a more beautiful collection of mountains, wood, and water than that which the passage from the headlands to the fresh water affords. The heights are more considerable than where we have been, and bear timber of the finest growth, amongst which the pine is conspicuous. On either side, as far as the eye can reach,

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whenever an opening in the hills presents itself, from the water's edge to the clouds, for forty miles in length, nothing but a majestic forest of trees, of every description, in comparison with which, the woods of Blair Athol are insignificant, is to be seen.

The breadth of the estuary varies from two to four miles, except where different arms, which it would require months to explore, form, at their base, an expanse of water. Pursuing the channel, which could only be found by the inexperienced by watching the action of the tide, we reached a large bay at sunset, near to which the Pelorus anchored, and where the mud flats commence. An old "pah," and vestiges of former residence, mark the place where the original tribe, which owned all this part of the strait, had their head-quarters.

Sunday, Sept. 8th.--Soon after leaving our station for the night, we reached the fresh water. As the channel becomes narrower, we found long flats, partly uncovered at low tide, and, higher up, islands, on which grows long grass. Immediately on entering the stream, as distinguished from the whole river by its confinement in narrow limits and by its rapidity, we fell in with islands formed, a long time ago, by obstructions in its course, caused by large trees which had been carried down by the occasional freshes, and had collected around them shingle stones, on which, ultimately, decayed vegetation had become a soil capable of yielding the same species of vegetable productions as that on its banks. On these islands flourish fine trees and an abundance of evergreen shrubs; but the rank under-crop of grass and weeds, as well as the marks left by the water, betray the occasional inundation of all the flat lands at this distance from the source of the river. If these islands were partially destroyed, the course of the river would be opened, and the shoals and falls that now entirely prevent navigation, would, in a short time, be removed by the force of the water, which would then form a fine river. The hills here are two or three miles apart, and the whole intermediate space might, with labour, be then reclaimed and cultivated. We were obliged in many places to have the boat tracked over the shallows. The

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natives are accustomed to this operation, and eagerly leap into the water up to their necks when it is necessary. As we proceeded, we found a party of the original natives--the first people we had seen since leaving Queen Charlotte's Sound. They belonged to the Ranghitani tribe,and were made prisoners, four or five years ago, by Raupero and the Kafia people, after the latter were driven from Kafia. They have their residence at Titirangi, at the entrance of Admiralty Bay, and are slaves of the Kafia chiefs. They were bound on an excursion to pick flax, which grows in abundance, and of the best quality, on the swampy ground up the river. These poor people received us in fear and trembling; holding their lives at the mercy of the chiefs, one of whom was with us. We encamped near them at night, and found them very different from the free people we had seen. They are scarcely allowed to possess anything beyond the mere means of existence, and pay heavy tribute yearly to their masters. The river, at the place of our stay, to-day, is sixty yards wide. It narrows higher up in places to forty, and is occasionally almost dry. The marks of floods reach ten feet above its bed; and we were told of some people having been drowned at night by a sudden fresh. These inundations are not, however, of more frequent occurrence than in many rivers of Europe; and the mischief produced by them might be obviated by clearing and confining the stream. Wild ducks of various sorts, and countless pigeons, gave us ample sport and change of food.

Monday, Sept. 9th.--Unable to proceed further in the boat, and yet desirous to know whether the land and river continued of the same description higher up--having been induced to believe, moreover, that as we ascended the stream we should find the mountains wider apart, and fertile plains--we engaged a canoe from our neighbours,and, with three of them to assist in carrying it over the falls and steadying it in its descent down the rapids, again ascended the current. After ten miles, during which we met with many obstructions, and were often forced to walk through the flax grounds, on account of the want of water to float the canoe---though here and there it ran very deep

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--we rounded a point in one of the mountains, and found that the country and bed of the river presented precisely the same appearance as lower down. The natives assured us that the source lay at two days' distance, amongst the highest mountains, and that, in fact, the river is but a collection of mountain waters and melted snow, increased in its course by small tributary streams, or rather tricklings, from the side of each hill that bounds its banks. Having satisfied myself on this head, I determined to lose no more valuable time in an idle excursion. We returned to our former station, at the rate of eight miles an hour, borne along by the rapidity of the stream, and steadied, from time to time, at the falls, by the exertions of our valuable guides.

Did this river flow, as I had been led to expect, through a plain agricultural district, or did its banks produce anything beyond a little flax, more than is to be found lower down, within a few miles of the sea, it might be made valuable to settlers by reason of its power to turn wheels and to transport produce to the harbour; but I found nothing to warrant such an assumption. The beauty of its scenery is, however, indisputable, and reminded me of many parts of the Thames between Marlow and Henley.

Tuesday, Sept. 10th.--We descended the river to-day at the same rapid rate as yesterday, and were accompanied by the natives in ten canoes. In these excursions, they carry with them all their property. Children, pigs, dogs, and cats, took their stations amongst the flax and potato-baskets, and seemed as much at home as if in their huts on shore. The men halted the canoes at every fall, and carefully guided our boat till in safety. Much of this civility was given to the chief, our companion, but not a little was rendered as a matter of course to strangers, in the avowed hope that we were coming to settle amongst them, and was unaccompanied by any demand for reward. The appearance of their party descending the rapids, amidst the wreck of immense trees lying in the bed of the river, between the banks covered with the most luxuriant evergreen shrubs, was most picturesque and original.

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We found the fresh water cease earlier than in our progress upwards, in consequence of the flood-tide making, and computed that we had gone up it twenty miles, which is ten miles further than the master of the Pelorus and Mr.Guard walked when the brig was here, and, as we were assured by the natives, much higher than any white man had gone before. The wind and tide being against us, we sought refuge for the night at the bottom of one of the numerous bays in the channel, and found the same bountiful provision of wood, water, and fish, as usual. We were here joined by one of the agents from Teawaiti, who, upon learning of our expedition and its object, had felt anxious to judge for himself of the nature of the place about which so much had been said. He had missed his way, amongst the many arms which penetrate into the hills out of the main channel, and was returning when we brought him to by a signal. One of the arms of this estuary runs away to the eastward, at about thirty miles from the Strait, and is divided from Queen Charlotte's Sound only by a narrow neck of land, over which the natives formerly sometimes dragged their canoes. Another one, still higher up, near the fresh water, leads near to Wairoa, which is a district in which flows a shallow river, at the very bottom of Cloudy Bay, inaccessible in consequence of a bar, and to which the Oyerri, in progress of time, might become the harbour of export.

Wednesday, Sept. 11th.--The wind having increased, we only reached the mouth of the estuary in the afternoon to-day, and disembarked at a native settlement on Guard's Island, named by the officers of the Pelorus after their and our pilot. We found on this island a few of the Ranghitani tribe, slaves; and on the side next the sea, from which there is a view of the whole Strait, a numerous body of the Kafia people. They have excellent houses, and stores of pigs, potatoes, and flax. They cultivate large patches of the island, which, at a short distance, has the appearance of barrenness, and seem more independent, freer from alarm, and happier, than any natives we have seen. We found here the elder brother of the chief we had taken with us. He is a tabooed or sacred personage, and cannot

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be touched. He is consequently not tattooed, and is not a little arrogant and scornful. As his tribe owns the Oyerri by right of conquest, he had followed us to know how I liked the place; which he and his brothers are anxious to sell to Europeans, in the hope of deriving benefits, which they have learned to appreciate by their intercourse with whale-ships in Cloudy Bay. The eldest brother's name is Enai, the second Eboa, and the third Charley; and they are all influential and well-disposed to Englishmen visiting Cloudy Bay.

Thursday, Sept. 12th.--Still detained on Guard's Island by a south-east gale. This wind is of frequent occurrence during the winter, and is not to be played with in Cook's Strait. Before leaving Teawaiti, we experienced its violence, and were obliged to use every precaution to prevent the ship dragging ashore. Fortunately the harbours in the Strait are so numerous and good, that no vessel need remain out during a gale.

We had a strong instance of the strictness with which some of the natives observe the ceremony of the taboo, or, as they call it, tapu. An old chief here, the uncle of the three young chiefs I have mentioned, is also considered a sacred person, and endowed with the power of healing, consecrating, cursing, &c. None of his people would drink out of any vessel which he had touched. One of them, therefore, gives him his liquids by pouring it over the palm of his hand into the old gentleman's mouth. We had, on landing, made a fire on the beach, as usual, and some of the party commenced cooking. The spot we had selected turned out to be tabooed; and if we had not been under the protection of some of the family we should, doubtless, have been required to pay for this breach of observances. We were allowed, however, to occupy the place; but no one would touch anything cooked at our fire, or in any of our utensils, nor taste of anything out of our mugs or cups. By this self-denial they debarred themselves from dining after us, as they had been accustomed to do, but no temptation could induce them to break through the custom.

Seeing a painted burial-place in a corner of the beach, we naturally thought that some person of consequence had

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been interred there, and that the place was, therefore, sacred; but, on inquiry, it proved that the old sorcerer had had his hair cut a short time ago, and that the locks were thus entombed, and had consecrated the adjoining ground.

Friday, Sept. 13th.--We sailed from Guard's Island with a fair wind, and, leaving Admiralty Bay, stood for Point Jackson; but meeting a sudden south-east breeze, and our native crew being unable to pull against it, we were obliged to put into Port Gore, half-way down which bay we took the beach.

This harbour, of which you have a chart taken by the master of H.M.S. Alligator, in 1834, is an admirable port of refuge for ships caught by a gale in the Strait, and affords perfect shelter and anchorage. The place where we landed is a summer fishing-station, and well stocked with turnips. It also has a hut, which we found a luxury at night, when it rained heavily. Enai joined us in his canoe, and caught fish and shot birds for our mess. He expressed himself very jealously of Nayti, and tried to disparage him. Though of the same tribe, he cannot bear to hear of Nayti's adventures and reception in England. He even would not allow that his name is Nayti, and only knew him as Eriki Nono, which, being translated, is Leek Bottom. I was informed by Nayti that Eriki signifies chief; but he has since allowed that it is a nickname, corrupted from Dicky, which he acquired in youth. This assumption of rank, which he thinks we value, is, however, to be greatly excused in Nayti; for in London he had every temptation to assume caste, both by people ad-dressing him as chief, prince, &c., and by the free entry its supposed possession gave him to some society. His imperfect knowledge of the nature of relationship led him to mislead persons in England talking to him about his family. Instead of being one of a numerous family, of which he spoke, he has no brothers or sisters. These brothers turn out to be cousins, and no relation of his was married to Mr. Bell, of Mana, as related in his evidence before the Lords' Committee. I mention these discrepancies with no view of blaming Nayti, but for the purpose of showing how little reliance

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is to be placed on any information taken from the natives. We have had so many instances of misrepresentation and exaggeration, which, upon examining, did not appear to be wilful perversions of truth, but the effects of a habit of boasting and colouring, that we now never believe anything coming from these people without due caution and allowance. Enai's envy of Nayti's acquirement of European habits was strongly displayed, and is another proof, if such were wanting, of the anxiety of the natives to see and mix with foreigners.

Sunday, Sept. 15th.--The south-east gale, which generally lasts three days in the Strait, kept us yesterday confined to the port, and, as we did not leave our cove, we were almost without resources to pass the time. To-day, after walking as far as the limits of the bay permitted, Mr. Wynen, at the request of our native crew, and of Enai's followers, read prayers; at which, though they understand not a word of them, our friends seemed edified.

Monday, Sept. 16th.--We left Port Gore at 7 A.M., and, finding a fair wind as soon as we had rounded Point Jackson, arrived on board ship at Teawaiti, at 3 P.M. The excursion, though disappointing as respects the Oyerri, has been valuable in making me acquainted with that place and Port Gore. The bivouacking in the end of winter, during eleven nights, had no bad effects on any of the party; and here I may corroborate all that has been said and written of the qualities of the climate of this country. The night air, however humid, has not the same effects on the lungs and limbs as in most parts of Europe; and the most genial days occur even at the worst season of the year, as was proved by our enjoying bathing in the sea and the fresh-water river, throughout our trip.

Tuesday, Sept. 17th.--I had intended immediately on my return to enter into negociation with the heads of the Kafia tribe, for the acquisition of the Oyerri, as a fine harbour of refuge in the Strait, and certainly possessing the best means of communication between it and the plains, if any such exist, of the southern island. From informa-tion I received, however, this morning, that the missionary schooner, which I have mentioned before, had, on its visit

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to Port Nicholson, taken messages to the chiefs there, not to dispose of any land, and that Mr. Williams was expected from the Bay of Islands shortly, I determined to hasten my departure from the Sound, and not to proceed to Cloudy Bay till I had crossed the Strait. I was also urged to this resolution by witnessing the eagerness with which many of the settlers at Teawaiti watched my movements, with a view of purchasing patches of land wherever it was likely the Company might be led to locate emigrants, and by finding in Mr. Barrett, a respectable man, desirous to give me his valuable assistance with the natives of Port Nicholson. I waited, therefore, for nothing but a fair wind to get out of the Sound at the southern entrance. Mr. Jerningham Wakefield completed here a sketch of the Oyerri, from the Strait to the islands in the fresh water have mentioned, which, though made under disadvantageous circumstances, very faithfully represents the course of our voyage. I enclose it herewith.

Wednesday.--This morning the slight shock of an earthquake was felt on shore here, but not on board the ship. A calm prevented us sailing, as I had intended. News arrived from Pererua, which is a small river abreast of Mana, that the Boiling Water tribe, so called from inhabiting the neighbourhood of some hot springs, had killed six native missionaries, who had wandered amongst them, and eaten their bodies, but offered their heads for sale to my informant. The chief of the tribe had declared that he would not be a missionary, but would eat all that he could find, and make cartridges of their books.

The wife of the principal chief, or rather his youngest and favourite wife, was taken seriously ill to-day at Teawaiti. She was removed from the house into an open shed near it, and kept without food, according to the universal native custom upon such occasions. As her death was hourly expected by Tipi and his friends, an incessant groaning and weeping was kept up around her, and discharges of muskets repeated at short intervals. Our ship-surgeon was sent for, and restored the patient for the time by means of a little wine, and by removing her back to the warm hut. The usual panacea for native complaints where

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there are Englishmen, is a dose of Epsom salts, which are highly esteemed.

Thursday, Sept. 19th.--Unable to leave the channel, I once more ascended the hills, from whence I saw the boats of the station tow in a whale from the Strait. Some dispute, a thing of by no means unfrequent occurrence, took place as to which party she belonged to--one boat having secured the mother, whilst the calf, which detained her near the spot, had been previously made fast by another. The natives, who man one boat here, usually receive 20l. for striking a whale, although they require the aid of an European crew to kill it. Upon this occasion, they were urged by a rival agent to insist upon more. As no competent umpire was at hand, the affair seemed likely to cause much contention, and a forcible seizure was in preparation for to-morrow. The whale measured sixty feet in length, and would produce about eight tons of oil.

Port Nicholson, Friday, Sept. 20th.--We weighed anchor at daylight, and left the Sound with the tide and a north-west wind. The exit under these circumstances is extremely easy and perfectly safe. We have thus realized the passage round the island of Alapawa, which was surmised to exist by many in England. The chart of the Channel and of the Sound combined, by Capt. Chaffers, the first from his own survey, the latter from Cook, will give you an accurate idea of this part of the coast of the Strait.

The width of the Strait, from the southern entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound to the headlands of Port Nicholson, is about thirty miles. We had to beat into the harbour, and came to an anchor at three in the afternoon. In one of our charts this harbour is represented as having a bar at its entrance. In beating in we had an opportunity of sounding across it in every direction, and we nowhere found less than 8 1/2 fathoms water, but in most places from 9 to 15 from the heads to our anchorage, behind the large island in the centre of the harbour. A reef, as laid down in other charts, runs off from the western point of the harbour; but the outermost rock, as well as the others, are far out of water at high tide; and when a beacon shall

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be placed on the point of the reef, and a lighthouse on the eastern head, no harbour in the world will be more easy to run or work into by day or night. As it is, it seems astonishing that so few vessels come in here; for the navigation of the entrance could not perplex a novice in nautical matters, the harbour is most desirable, and the settlements in it supply a larger provision of the usual produce of the Strait than either Cloudy Bay or Queen Charlotte's Sound. The reef, or rather the name of a reef, has, however, so kept ships away, that, with the exception of the missionary schooner, from the Bay of Islands, no vessel has been here before for two years, although the numerous whalers frequenting the coast are frequently greatly inconvenienced by a want of fresh provisions.

On entering the harbour, a fine expanse of water presents itself to the view. The distance from the reef and from the top of the harbour inside, to the beach at the bottom of it, is about six miles, and three or four in width, over the whole of which is found anchorage ground; and in the deep bay, which forms the real harbour, perfect shelter from all winds. In the whole space no inconvenience can arise to any vessel with the usual precautions, as none but the true wind is felt instead of the flurries, which are so troublesome in the other ports I have been in on the southern side of the Strait. An island, placed near midway down the harbour, is of considerable size, and offers itself as well adapted for a fort, which would command the entrance and the whole extent between the hills which enclose Port Nicholson to the east and west. These hills are by no means of the formidable height of those in the Sound and in the Oyerri. They are covered with trees of a brighter foliage than those we had left in the morning, and present no obstacles to their cultivation. In the beauty of their appearance they reminded us of the woods of Mount Edgecombe, the last we saw in England.

We had not anchored, when we received on board two canoes full of natives, who hailed Mr. Barrett as an old friend and companion in danger. Epuni, an old chief, eagerly inquired the motives of our visit, and betrayed the most lively satisfaction at being informed that we wished

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to buy the place, and bring white men to it. He was followed by Warepori, his nephew, who is about thirty-five years old, and has for some years superseded the older chiefs in influence, by his prowess in war, and skill in the rude arts cultivated by these people. He also, in few words, expressed his desire to see white people here, and his willingness to sell the land, which was solemnly made over to him by the natives of this place five years ago, when the greater portion of them emigrated to one of the Chatham Islands in an English vessel, whose master they partly obliged to carry them. Warepori and the six tribes which now inhabit the whole district of Port Nicholson, were a little before that time driven out of their own country in the neighbourhood of Mount Egmont, by the tribes about the boiling springs, and have the same right to this place as Raupero has to Entry Island, and as the Waikato people have to Kawia, from which they expelled the latter chief. This right is that of possession, sanctified in this case, in the opinion of the natives of all these parts, by the formal cession of the land, by the natives who abandoned it, and constitutes the lawful power of use and disposal throughout these islands. Moreover, as regards this district, there is no one who disputes his claim; for the original possessors have made their homes at the Chathams, and having greatly decreased since their departure, would be unable, if so disposed, to regain their ceded territory.

The two chiefs remained on board at night. They informed us that the schooner had left some native missionaries here, who were instructed to have houses and chapels built by the time Mr. Williams was expected, with which orders they had complied. In discussing the merits of the missionary labours, as opposed to the former practices of the natives, viz., those of war and cannibalism, they deprecated the constant occupation of praying and singing which took people off from their potato-grounds and canoes; the younger one declaring that the incessant worship had nearly driven him mad, whilst they at the same time warmly denounced any further fighting. "What we want," they said "is to live in peace, and to have white

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people come amongst us. We are growing old," alluding to the numerous aged chiefs on shore, "and want ourchildren to have protectors in Europeans, but we don't wish for the missionaries from the north. They are natives. We have been long told of vessels coming from Europe. One has at length arrived; and we sell our land and harbour, and live with the white people when they come to us."

The old man asked what the missionaries meant when they said that all who were not missionaries were devils; and said that they had told him his father would come and see him again, "when every body knew that his father had been dead and eaten these thirty years."

Saturday, Sept. 21st.--This morning the two chiefs renewed the conversation respecting the sale of the land, and begged me to go and look at the place, and tell them what I thought of it. They did not wish to talk any more about disposing of it till I had seen it; and Warepori said that he should go and finish a large canoe he was working at, and that we should not see him for two or three days, by which time I could tell him whether the place suited me.

I accordingly went on shore at the bottom of the harbour, and procuring a small canoe, proceeded with a chief, who had been appointed to show me every thing, up the freshwater river which empties itself in the harbour at about amile distant from our anchorage. This river is seven or eight feet deep at its mouth, where it spreads itself over a large extent, forming a lagoon influenced by the tide. It has also made for itself three other streams, which divide at a distance of many miles from its mouth, and increase the extent of inundated land. The valley in which it flows seems to be about forty miles in length, and is from three to four miles broad. On each side gently sloping hills, about 200 feet in height, covered with timber, bound it to the east and west as far as a very high range of mountains, partially capped with snow. At about three miles up the river, commences a grove of fine trees, of the best description for ship and house building, intermixed with large pine trees. One of these trees, called the kaikatea, mea-

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sured twenty-one feet in circumference, and was nearly the same size upwards for sixty feet, without a branch; and I did not select this one for its peculiarity. The pines would furnish masts and yards of all sizes. A tree called by the English here the honeysuckle, furnishes excellent wood for boat-building. The only white man living in Port Nicholson showed me a boat of eight tons, which he had constructed of this wood, the planks of which he had bent himself in the sun. He had sawed the whole of it with a hand saw, and made the nails for it out of old hoops.

As I ascended the river, which, in its main branch, has forty yards of breadth, I found its course obstructed by large trees carried down by the stream, but by no means to the same extent as in the Oyerri. The current also is much less rapid than that river, and the banks present no indications of occasional inundations. The land on both sides is a black soil, and in the patches the natives cultivate produces potatoes, Indian corn, and oats, which are carelessly thrown amidst the stumps of the half-destroyed trees and the most beautiful shrubs. I reached six or seven miles up the stream, which I there found of the same width and depth, but here and there more obstructed by fallen trees and collected stones. At length, two immense trees lying across the stream from bank to bank, formed a partial dam, which prevented the further progress of the canoe. The wood was here impenetrable, and precluded the idea of pursuing the course of the river on foot. I had seen, however, all that was necessary to confirm my opinion that the whole extent of the valley will be capable of cultivation, and will amply repay the labour of clearing, by its extreme fertility, when the river shall be confined and its streams united. This may easily be effected; and then the harbour of Port Nicholson will possess a river worthy of it. What may be the termination of this valley I cannot surmise from the confused and varying accounts of the inhabitants, though it is not unlikely that it may communicate with the fertile plains between Mount Egmont and East Cape.

The natives assured me, that they had been as high upthe river as could be done in two days, in a canoe, which,

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considering the obstacles in the opposing stream, and the easy manner in which these people like to travel, would not be more than twenty-five miles from where I was. I feel assured, however, that this is far short of the source of the stream, which cannot rise nearer than the high range of mountains which closes the valley to the northward. The idea of its running through a gorge to the left of the mountains, is favoured by the fact of hostile tribes having occasionally descended the river to within a few miles of Port Nicholson, to cut off any families they might find occupied in their potato grounds on its banks; but the valley requires exploring up to the mountains, for which purpose a strong expedition and a fortnight's leisure are necessary. Hereafter I promise myself the execution of such a project.

We found fifty or sixty people working up the river at their gardens, and a few higher up, who fled yesterday on hearing our guns, when the New Zealand flag was saluted. These were reassured by our guide, and returned with us. Those we had passed in our ascent, had prepared baskets of potatoes in their ovens for us on our return; and all eagerly greeted me as lately from Europe, direct. The white missionaries they consider as much natives as themselves. At one of their stations they inquired of my guide, as the canoe glided down the current, whether the ship contained missionaries. "No," said he, "they are all devils." Their shouts of laughter betrayed their acquaintance with his allusion, and their opinion of the uncharitable tenet which had given rise to it.

Sunday, Sept. 22nd.--An equinoctial N.W. gale blew to-day with great violence, but did not affect the ship or her anchors. Some canoes came off, and a numerous native audience assisted at the church service. One canoe, in running for the ship, struck her side and upset. Those in her, including a woman, seemed to think but little of the accident, holding on the bottom of the canoe till a boat picked them up. In the evening a messenger arrived from abreast of Entry Island, with tidings of the probability of a fight: the Boiling-water tribe having mustered in that neighbourhood in strength, and, being set on by

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Raupero, might, it was thought, invade this territory. All the natives hurried on shore, at the risk of capsizing, to talk over the matter, and make preparations for war.

Monday, Sept. 23.--This morning, I went to visit all the settlements in the harbour. At one of the largest, we found Warepori at work at a large canoe, the bottom of which consists of a single tree, sixty feet long, hollowed out with the adze. In the course of the forenoon, two large canoes put into the cove where we were, at a signal from him. They were on their way to the principal village, near our anchorage, carrying the chiefs of two tribes to a meeting at which the proposed sale of the land was to be discussed. When these had landed, there were assembled about sixty men; and the affair which occupied all minds was brought on the carpet. After an introduction of the matter by Warepori, the leader of the opposition, by name Buacawa, rose and addressed the assembly. He objected to the sale of the place on the score of the treatment to be expected by the natives from white settlers, and the inexpediency of parting with the homes which they had obtained, after so much suffering, when driven from their native territory. He spoke for an hour, and evinced considerable power. His diction and gesticulation were most vigorous; and the most ignorant of the language in which he spoke, and the most inexperienced in physiognomy, could not fail of taking the sense of his oration from his expression and action. Matangi, the oldest, and formerly, the most influential Chief of these tribes, favoured the sale, and almost cried with joy when he spoke of the white people coming to protect the Port Nicholson people from their enemies, and to put an end to war. Warepori replied to his opponent, and talked a good deal about himself. He said that he was known in Europe, and that the ship had been sent out to him. Before he concluded, all but the leader of the opposition had moved off to another part of the ground, upon the appearance of a large mess of baked birds and potatoes, which had been cooked in honour of our visit.

I favoured these discussions, from feeling assured that the more the affair was debated, the more binding would

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be the bargain, should I succeed in concluding it; and in themselves they had nothing disagreeable, for, in allseriousness, I can assert that I never saw a deliberative assembly conduct its business in a more regular or decorous manner, and that the solemnity of the appeals of the speakers, and the encouraging applause or earnest dissent of the audience, were becoming the importance of the transaction they were engaged in. At the close of the arguments, which ended in a decision in favour of the sale, most of the meeting went away in canoes to the chief village, where another debate was to take place. Indeed, in every settlement this floating parliament assented upon the occasion, and formally proceeded to take the sense of its inhabitants. It realized, after a manner, Mr. Cresset Pelham's notion of an ambulant legislature.

Tuesday, September 24.--I was on shore to-day at the principal village, when the debate was renewed. It ended as yesterday, in a large majority deciding to sell me all their rights in this harbour and district. At its conclusion, I formally asked the Chiefs, through Mr. Barrett, whether they had made up their minds,--and they asked me, "Have you seen the place"? and how do you like it?" I replied, that I had seen all I wanted, and that it was good; upon which they told me that it was now for me to speak, for that they had decided to sell their land upon their own judgment, and by the advice of their friends in the neighbourhood, notwithstanding the dissent of some grumblers, who owned but little of it, and whose only argument against the sale was that the white people would drive the natives away, as in Port Jackson. They had previously had fully explained to them, that a reserve of land was to be made for them, and showed their knowledge of its meaning, by now referring to it, in answer to this argument, and by saying, that they would live with the English as with each other. I begged the chiefs to go on board the ship to-morrow, when I would let them see what I would give for the land. Afterwards they spoke but little of the affair, and gave us some specimens of sham-fights, in which all the violent distortions of the countenance, putting out the tongue to the greatest extent, &c., &c., which you have heard of, took place.

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On arriving on board, I decided upon the manner in which I would deal with these people, and upon the amount of property which I would give them in exchange for their land and harbour. I found a territory of forty or fifty miles in length, by twenty-five or thirty in breadth, containing a noble harbour, accessible at all times, and in the very highway between New Holland and the Western World, and land exceeding in fertility any I have seen in these islands, and equalling that of an English garden. I found a race of people of warlike habits, and but little used to intercourse with Europeans, just emerging from their barbarism, and inclined to cultivate the arts and intimacy of Great Britain,--appreciating the protection from their hostile and still savage enemies, that British settlers would afford, and anxiously desiring to assist them in their first labours in a new country. I found that these people, mustering, upon the slightest call, three hundred armed men, and quite capable, as they have repeatedly proved themselves to be, of retaining their possessions, and never having parted with a single acre of land in their district, by sale or otherwise, now, for the first time, disposed to make over their country to me, as the representative of a body of my countrymen, in consideration of the promises of remuneration and advantage I had held out to them. Under these circumstances, and following out the spirit of my instructions, I determined to act in the most liberal manner in the transaction. Moreover, I was most anxious to distinguish this bargain from all others that have been made in New Zealand,--that none of the haggling and petty trading which usually take place between the Europeans and the natives of this country should enter into any operations between the latter and the Company's agents.

I, therefore, decided that I would lay before the chiefs exactly the property I intended to give them in exchange for what they offered; and that I would acquaint them with my firm resolution not to exceed this amount at their customary solicitation; but that the value of this property should not be regulated by what has hitherto been considered the standard of exchange in similar transactions.

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Accordingly, on Wednesday, Sept. 25th, everything was in activity, on board, at daylight, and the articles for barter were brought upon the upper deck. At least one hundred natives were present to witness this operation, and, if I except a good deal of chattering, afforded no obstruction or inconvenience. It required much time to open the numerous bales and cases, and to take out a certain quantity from each, so that the day passed without my being able to specify the amount of barter to be received. In the evening, I requested Warepori to acquaint his friends, that it would be impossible to assort the various things they were to have, with such a crowd on the decks; when he made them a speech from the poop, and was the first to go on shore,--whither all followed him, with the promise of not coming off to the ship till I sent for them.

Thursday, September 26.--When the various articles had been selected, I sent on shore for Warepori and all the chiefs. They came off, with their sons, and, after a strict examination, approved of the quantity and quality of the things, but seemed embarrassed and anxious amongst themselves how the division amongst the six tribes--which compose the population here, though they are all part of the Nyatiawa tribe--was to be effected with satisfaction to all parties. I, therefore, proposed that the lots should be made on our deck,--and in doing so, though I incurred much trouble, I had no fear of any commotion, and was desirous that the affair should pass entirely free from the accustomed dissensions amongst these people, and that the remembrance of it should not be embittered by any unpleasant occurrence. I sent also for the principal missionary, to be a witness to the delivery of the goods; but found him afterwards so exceedingly importunate on his own account, and held in such slight respect by the chiefs,--afraid, also, of being a party to the transaction, in case of future regrets on their parts,--that I as not sorry when the plea of a sick child took him on shore gain.

As, of course the affair could not be concluded without more words, when everything was ready for distribution a debate arose in due form, respecting the reception of the goods by the people on shore, part of whom are slaves taken at

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Taranake. Warepori commenced by entreating the chiefs to use their influence to prevent a scramble, when the boats should land the things at their respective settlements. He was followed by Buacawa, whose eloquence was of the same violent character as on shore, and is the result, I find, of a bad temper and love of contradiction. He spoke amidst the repeated cries of "Korrero, korrero,"--or Speak, speak,--which were sometimes used seriously; at others, when he rather exceeded the bounds of truth, sneeringly, in the same way that "Hear!" is applied in England. After enumerating generally the articles to be received, he described what he felt assured would be the conduct of the tribes when the goods were landed--namely, that every one would rush for something, and when they found that there was not enough of each article to go round amongst them all, many would be dissatisfied. He said that every one had cleared a bit ofground, and that many would then find themselves without anything in exchange for it. "What, then, will you say," he exclaimed, "when you find that you have parted with all the land between Rimerap and Turakirai, and from the sea to the Tararua? What will you say when many, many white men come here, and drive you all away into the mountains? How will you like it, when you go to the whiteman's ship or house, in expectation of hospitality, and he tells you, that you have been paid for the land, and to be gone,--with eyes turned up to heaven, and invocations onis knees to his God?"

To all this harangue he suited his actions, and wound up by declaring that there were about half the number of goods shown as really were on the deck. Upon which the hearers, who had examined them, shouted "No! No!" The debate closed at sunset; all but the elder chiefs went on shore for the night, and Warepori promised that the affair should be settled to-morrow.

Friday, September 27.--This morning some little delay took place in the division of the lots, by the chiefs being unwilling to open the cases of muskets, which they wished to go on shore whole, to make as much show as possible, and have the quantity of property they received for their place at least not diminished in the reports of any strangers

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who might see it, and carry the news amongst the neighbouring tribes. I overcame this difficulty by presenting them with an additional case of twenty muskets, which, with five I had already given, enabled them to send one to each of the settlements entire. The division of the other goods then commenced, and was conducted by Warepori with great fairness. On every case of muskets he placed a nearly equal portion of goods, till they were expended. He reserved, I believe, but little for himself, beyond some powder and cartridges, which he told me it was necessary he should keep, in case of a war. Some of the chiefs showed an equal disinterestedness, declaring that all they wanted was the white people to come to live with them. At three o'clock the distribution terminated. It had been repeatedly interrupted by speeches from different chiefs; but the leader of the opposition, having once made up his mind that the sale was to take place, showed no further hostility. He represented one settlement, at the mouth of the river, and received his share without speaking, and expressed himself perfectly satisfied, afterwards, with his lot. The deed, drawn on parchment, was then brought upon deck, and after a full explanation to all present, by Mr. Barrett, of its contents, was signed by the chiefs and their sons, whom they brought up to the capstan, in order to assure me that they looked to the future, and to bind their children in the bargain made by themselves. Nayti, who had returned yesterday evening from a visit to his relations, was a subscribing witness, and occasionally explained the nature of the deed, as relates to the reserve of land. His want of weight with these people had prevented him in the morning from instancing his own treatment in England, in contradiction to the anticipations of Buacawa. At least, I am disposed to attribute his declining to take so good an opportunity of serving his employers, and acquitting himself of a debt of gratitude to this motive, rather than to bad feeling.

After the execution of the deed, the goods were placed in our boats, and landed at the different settlements. Our people assured me that not the slightest tumult took place on these occasions, the chief of each tribe taking upon

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himself the distribution of the goods amongst the families. Thus has terminated, in the most satisfactory manner, this first and important purchase for the Company.

In the evening Warepori and Epuni dressed themselves in their newly-acquired suits of clothes, and made a very respectable appearance at table. The former retired early, Iand came to my cabin to beg leave to undress, as he found the coat and shoes very uneasy on him, in comparison with his native mat, or the blanket which he usually wears, or the state of nature in which he works at his canoes.

Saturday, September 28.--The weather was very bad to-day, and prevented communication with the shore by canoes. One of our boats was out fishing with the seine, but took very little. There are places in this port abounding in fish of the best quality, such as the snapper, sole, hake, haboaka, and a species of salmon, which we have found excellent eating. The natives are experienced in the seasons and times of day, and weather, in which to Iemploy themselves in fishing; and hereafter I doubt not that the fishing grounds here will afford occupation and profit to many English boats' crews.

Sunday, September 29.--After service I went round the settlements in the harbour with Warepori, in order to see how the people were satisfied with their goods, and to invite them to a war dance at the principal village to-morrow. I wished to muster them, in order to know their strength, and to convince them that I placed entire confidence in them. On landing at the Taranake, or slave-settlement, Warepori begged me to take a place in a canoe which was hauled upon the beach, and seating himself, proceeded to address the occupants of this wretched village. He represented the value of English settlers coming to the place, and excused the smallness of the quantity of goods he had sent to them, on the plea of the free settlements having required the greater share; but, concluded he, "You have now arms, and should Raupero or the Boiling-water tribe attack us, you will be able to defend yourselves. If we go to war, and any of you fall, you have now the satisfaction of knowing that such will he burned with their muskets and cartouche boxes, and that

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their friends will mourn over them, as men who died with weapons in their hands." By his tact, in thus suiting his speech to the taste of his audience, he soon conciliated them; and when one of the missionaries appeared, and reproached him for not having kept one half of the land for them, and the white men of his profession expected from the north, they applauded his rebuke of him, which was eloquently delivered, and contained matter which I little expected from him. He asked him how he, a child, dared to reprove him for anything he had done? and whether, when the land had been sold to the white missionaries, they might not have sold it again, perhaps to Frenchmen or Americans? "This rangatira-hoya," i. e., gentleman-soldier, he said, drawing attention to me, "will bring many people here from England; and how could they live in the same place with their enemies? They are not all Englishmen that come from Europe; I have been in Port Jackson and know the English, and none others shall come to interfere with those who are coming to live here. There is a man from Europe on board the ship who is not an Englishman; I know him by his tongue." This was in allusion to the German naturalist. After re-entering the boat, he said he wished to satisfy everybody; that he had reserved nothing for himself; that when he had learned English, he would go to England; and, laying his head on my knee, he added, that if the natives were dissatisfied with him, he would live with the English, and they should be his fathers. He then invited the young men to attend at the principal village to-morrow, six miles off, at a war-dance in honour of their visitors.

Before leaving the head of the harbour, I proposed to buy the houses and chapels that the missionary delegates have built on a beautiful piece of flat land, already cleared, on which I propose to plant the first British settlement; but Warepori objected to my paying anything more--saying, "Have you not already paid for the land andeverything on it?" I engaged, however, the natives to be active in collecting provisions, clearing the land, and bringing timber for houses to this spot.

At all the other settlements, similar scenes took place;

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and I had the satisfaction to be received on all hands as a benefactor, and to hear the reiterated assurances of contentment with the purchase-money, and joy at the expected arrival of settlers.

I must not omit to do justice to the chiefs who are parties to the deed, by informing you that they were equally anxious that the sale should take place, and that the purchase should be valid and binding on themselves and heirs. They repeatedly informed their people that the land would be gone from them for ever, with the exception of what the white people would allow them to live on and cultivate; that they would never receive any further payment for it, but would be paid for any labour they might perform for us; and that the contract would be held as sacred as similar ones, which are frequent amongst themselves.

Monday, September 30.--In the course of the morning, we observed the natives, from all parts of the port, mustering at the prescribed place for the appointed ceremony. Although the weather was bad, canoes full of armed men, and men, women, and children, on foot, hastened to the rendezvous. Warepori, and the chiefs who had slept onboard, went on shore early to make preparations for our reception. In every direction on the beach, the native ovens threw up clouds of smoke; and an immense flag-staff was reared, with the assistance of our carpenter, on which to hoist the colours of New Zealand, which I intend to leave here. In the afternoon, at a signal from the shore, all the cabin party and those who could be spared forward, landed, and were received by about three hundred or more men, women, and children. The former, amounting to two hundred, were all armed--most of them with muskets or fowling-pieces. Spears, tomahawks, axes of various sizes, pointed sticks, and the dozen umbrellas which they had received from us, figured in the hands of the others. They were divided into two parties, which occupied separate parts of the village and beach, and were led respectively by Warepori, who insisted upon wearing a large hussar cloak of mine, and was armed with a beautiful meri of green-stone, and Kaihaya; and an old chief, known by

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the nick-name of Dog's-ear, and for his warlike feats, and his detestation of Raupero and his tribe.

Immediately on landing, I had the New Zealand flag hoisted at the flag-staff-head, when the same was done at the main of the ship, which saluted it with twenty-one guns, greatly to the satisfaction of the assembly. Warepori then inquired whether we were ready, and apologized for the absence of many men, either absent on an expedition to the westward, employed in their potato-grounds, or deterred by the lowering state of the weather.

Preparatory to the review, each party shook off their clothes and took to their arms; after which they went through the customary dance, which excites them to vigour of action, to the cadence of an harmonious recitativo, breathed out deeply from the lungs. Leaving their clothes, as a regiment leaves its knapsacks prior to the execution of rapid manoeuvres, each party took its station on the beach, at about two hundred yards' distance from its opponent. Then commenced the war-dance, which consists of saltatory movements, whilst one hand, extended upwards, grasps the weapon, and the other, at each descent of the body, slaps the thigh. The whole body of performers kept perfect time in these movements, and in the deep guttural sounds which accompanied them. The two columns then passed each other at the utmost speed, and, wheeling about with great precision, took up a different ground, nearer to each other. After the dance had been repeated--and in this the women joined, making the most frightful distortions of countenance, and portraying the demons of discord by their appearance and action, a challenge was brought from one party to the other, and delivered in pantomimic signs; and you may judge of our surprise, when we found that the bearer of this gage, disguised in an easy undress, and his head ornamented with a profusion of feathers of the houya, gracefully arranged, was the catechist from the Bay of Islands, Richard Davis, so named after his white godfather and teacher. He was most expressive in his action, and throughout the scene; and, subsequently, in bringing up a reinforcement from the next village with great rapidity, showed that his long

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sojourn amongst his reverend employers had not changed his inborn tastes, or abated his skill in the sport. As the day was closing in, and this was intended as a most amicable meeting of the tribes, no sham-fight took place, but the chiefs addressed the forces, and assured each other of mutual good will. One of the bodies then performed a war-song, in the execution of which great exertion of lungs and limbs, and accuracy of time, were displayed.

The native oven, which contained our dinner, was then opened, and we were invited to attend. After doing justice to the joints of a pig which had been killed for the occasion, and the whole of which we were bound in native politeness to take away with us, however little we might eat, we drank the healths of the chiefs and people of Port Nicholson, in champagne, and, christening the flag-staff, took formal possession of the harbour and district, in the name of the Company, amidst the hearty cheers of our party, and the assembled natives.

The whole scene passed in the greatest harmony, and with a display of good feeling towards us on the part of our new friends, hitherto, I imagine, never elicited by European treatment. I have dwelt on the details, with tiresomeness I am afraid, lest the Company should fail to know the prospects of a good reception of emigrants on its possessions, and that families contemplating settling on them may at once relieve their minds of the impression that has been made by many late works on this country, that the disposition and habits of the aborigines render a residence here unsafe. The probable future importance also of this place cannot be too much impressed upon those emigrants disposed to turn their attention to commercial or maritime pursuits. The land contained in the district will amply supply provisions for the settlers and for exportation, and will probably be found connected by valleys with districts still more suitable to British husbandry. The harbour is the only one into which a vessel of more than 100 tons can enter with safety on a line of coast of 600 miles in extent, from Maunkou to the Thames, and must become the depot of the interior of this line, to be supplied by a coasting trade, and of all the country on both sides of

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Cook's Strait, for the purposes of importation of foreign, and exportation to other countries of native produce. It also presents the most desirable place in these islands for the fitting out of whale-ships, not less than 400 of which annually procure cargoes of oil on the banks to the east-ward of the southern island; and for ship-building it offers timber in endless quantity, second only in quality to the cowdie; whilst for every other purpose wood of every description encumbers the land.

Captain Chaffers was away from the ship for five days last week, and thoroughly surveyed the entrance to the port, its headlands, and bays. His chart, which accompanies this, will inform you that I have taken upon myself, subject to the approbation of the Directors, to give names to the most remarkable bays and points, preserving such European appellations as have been recognized and adopted in charts, and such native ones in the Company's possessions, which are easy of pronunciation, and describe their extent in the deed. I send also herewith a copy of that document.

Thursday, October 1.--It remained for me now only to leave a person to watch the interests of the Company, and to make preparations for the arrival of settlers; and I had brought with me from Queen Charlotte's Sound a trustworthy man, well qualified by his knowledge of the language and habits of the people, for the purpose. I left with him saws, tools, garden-seeds, and various articles of trade, in which to pay for native labour, and to supply himself with food. Warepori undertook to put him up in a new house at his village, and to render him every assistance. I had landed also a sow, which had littered on our voyage from England, with her progeny, and the goats and poultry. I left Mr. Smith ample instructions to encourage the natives to build temporary houses at Thorndon, to plant potatoes, and to keep their pigs for their expected visitors; and supplied him with boards to place on the most prominent spots, on which is painted, "New Zealand Land Company."

The natives contemplate an almost immediate journey to Wainerap, or Palliser Bay, which they possess, for the

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purpose of planting a stock of potatoes, and bringing back pigs which run wild there. To-day Warepori tabooed that place for me, and swore by his head that no one should have any of it till I had time to go to see it. It is a large bay to the eastward of this port, and contains a river and a large district of flat and fertile land. In these respects it is like Wairoa, near Cloudy Bay, and the valley of the Hutt here, all of which require some labour to make the land available, in consequence of the freshes inundating the flats at the mouths of the rivers. On my return to the strait, however, I shall see whether this tabooed place is worth paying for. Warepori's sudden regard for me has also opened the way to acquiring a large district of fine flat land at Taranaki and Moturoa, on the western coast in the neighbourhood of Mount Egmont. This land is not subject to the same inconvenience, having already produced to the Englishmen, who abandoned it with these natives, fine crops of wheat, Indian corn, garden vegetables, melons, and peaches. Some of the wheat was sent to Sydney and England, and was highly approved of. Should I be able to obtain possession of this tract, which is very extensive, and perfectly level, through the means I have obtained here, I shall be less anxious about purchases in the north, where I hear the missionaries and others have bought land at every place on the coast, including Kaipara and Manukou, where they have established schools and chapels. The district in question is between Kafia and Mount Egmont, abreast of the Sugar-Loaf Islands, and runs for thirty miles inland. The chiefs here, who were all born on these plains, look back with great regret to the time when they were obliged to abandon them, and are very desirous that they should be again opened to them by means of European settlers. They have selected Ewareh, the son of Epuni, and Tuarau, the grandson of the principal chief of the whole Nytiawa tribes, to accompany me to Taranaki, when it is hoped they will he able to open anegociation with the present possessors of the land, to whom they are both related.

Wednesday, October 2.--I was this morning up another branch of the river, much smaller than the main one, and

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evidently only a back-water from it, except when heavy rains fill the main channel high up the valley, and force their way through this and two other branches. The land on both sides of this branch is of the same black alluvial soil, and covered with the most beautiful shrubs, in blossom, like a rare English garden. The grove, through which runs the stream, contains still finer trees than up the other branch, and teems with birds, which, with the ducks of all descriptions in the river, afford abundant sport. I am sorry that my time will not allow me to explore the source of these streams and of the river; but I feel persuaded that they will be found to unite higher up, and may with labour be continued as one river to the harbour.

Thursday, Oct. 3rd.--Having a day to spare, whilst Mr. Smith was establishing himself on shore, I again ascended all the branches of the river, accompanied by Captain Chaffers, who took their bearings. Our whale-boat was stopped in its progress about six miles up the river; and our trip led to no further result than confirming my opinion of the capabilities of the valley, as before stated.

Cloudy Bay, Friday, Oct. 4th.-- All my arrangements being completed on shore, we weighed anchor this morning, and, taking with me Ewareh and Tuarau, we sailed for Cloudy Bay, in the mouth of which harbour we anchored this evening. The appearance of the Southern Island, after that of Port Nicholson, is most cheerless. The wind blew in violent flurries from the mountains,--a chain of which, inland, covered with eternal snow, added to the dreariness of the scene. To the eastward of the harbour, we saw the bay, at the bottom of which is Wairoa, of which district much has been said, and which was bought by a Mr. Blenkinsop, some years ago, for an old 6-pounder gun. The land about all this part of the coast is barren; and the only advantage which Cloudy Bay offers, over the neighbouring harbours, is its vicinity to the whaling-ground, for the shore parties is much inferior to Port Nicholson; and has only been used by them by accident, and because the other has been unknown. We found here the Honduras barque, from

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London, taking in oil and bone from the shore parties. This is the only vessel that has been here for some months; and I have had no opportunity of sending to you since the 2nd of last month. Very few English whalers come here at any time; but, after the season, many American and French ships put in for provisions, which they buy dearly of the English sutlers.

Saturday, Oct. 5th.--We weighed anchor again this morning, and worked higher up the harbour, in which we saw four or five whaling settlements. There are about one hundred and twenty natives, of the Kafia tribe, at this place; and they exact payment for wood and water from ships. Ocean Bay is the only spot where there is any land worth cultivating, and that is of very small extent.

Sunday, Oct. 6th.--I find, to-day, that Mr. Guard and Mr. Wynen are in treaty with the family of the three chiefs I have mentioned as being of some consequence in this bay, for the purchase of the Oyerri for a party of speculators at Sydney, who deputed Mr. Wynen to examine that place, upon the flattering representations of the officers of the Pelorus. Notwithstanding the conduct of these Englishmen, in pretending to point out the Oyerri to me as a place fit for a location of emigrants by the Company, I have no reason to complain of their now trying to buy it for themselves,--for I at once, on seeing it, expressed my opinion of its incapability of being for a length of time anything beyond a harbour of refuge, and of the land in the valley of the fresh-water stream holding out no prospect to settlers, except after infinite labour and outlay. In all my conversations, therefore, on the subject, I rather disparaged the Oyerri, and may have given them the idea that I was not desirous to acquire it; whilst I secured Port Nicholson, which is so much more valuable, and for a part of which these very parties were, just previous to my arrival, attempting to negociate.

Wednesday, Oct. 9th.-- Having completed our letters, and made our packages, to go by the Honduras, I am now only awaiting the arrival of Mr. Barrett from the Sound, to take our departure for Taranake and the west coast of the Northern Island. Tuarau and Ewareh will

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also return with him. I forgot to mention that, during our stay in Port Nicholson, these two men swam off from the ship, and saved the life of one of the cabin-boys, who had fallen out of a boat, at night. They spoke afterwards but little of the occurrence, and seemed to look upon it as a set-off against our boat having picked up their friends, who were upset a few days before.

This afternoon I visited some of the bays in this harbour. In one of them we found a whaling establishment, carried on by a Portuguese, for a mercantile house at Sydney. He had obtained, with four boats, sixty-five tons of oil during this season, and would have taken more, but had not received a supply of goods to carry on his business. From the ridge above his house is a view of the whole of Cloudy Bay, which extends from a promontory called the White Bluff, in the direction of Cape Campbell, to the western head of the real harbour of the bay, in which weare at anchor, called in some charts Underwood Harbour, but commonly bearing the name of the whole bay. This want of distinction between the whole and a part leads to frequent mistakes--many vessels having run into shoal water at the bottom of the bay, near Wairoa, whilst seeking the harbour, which is twelve miles to the westward.

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