1840 - Ward J. Supplementary Information Relative to New Zealand - No. IV. Sailing Directions by Mr. E. M. Chaffers

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No. IV.

New Zealand Company's Ship Tory, Cloudy Bay, October 8, 1839.

COOK'S STRAITS.

VESSELS bound to Cook's Straits from the south-west should make the land about twenty miles to the south-west of Cape Farewell. The land about this part of the coast is high, and the distant mountains covered with snow. The high land suddenly terminates about Rocky Point, and a remarkable white way running down the side of the hill to the sea, is very conspicuous, and easily seen at thirty miles' distance. From the white way or cliff to Cape Farewell the coast runs gradually lower, and at about twenty miles' distance Cape Farewell appears like a low island, as will be seen by the views.

There is a shoal sandspit running off Cape Farewell, about twenty miles E. by N. Messrs. Guard and Barrett, who have had great experience on this part of the coast, are not aware of any other dangers off the Cape.

After passing Cape Farewell soundings may be obtained, in from fifty-four to forty-nine and forty-four fathoms, fine muddy sand and small broken shells.

Vessels passing Cape Farewell in the evening may pass the night in safety by standing off and on Blind Bay under easy sail, and keeping the lead going. The tide is not strong here, and the soundings regular, from forty-nine to forty-four fathoms, fine dark sand; whereas vessels running up the Straits in the night will get into strong tides, and unless well acquainted with the coast, may run into danger.

The navigation of Cook's Straits is easy, and less dangerous than the English Channel; and, with a good

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look out from the mast-head by day, and the lead going by night, a vessel may proceed to any part of the Straits in safety. There appears to be an erroneous opinion, in England, about rocks and shoals in Cook's Straits. I have questioned the natives of different tribes who have crossed the Straits in every direction, whether there is any danger in the middle of the Straits or not, and they all assert there is none, and that they have never heard of any; and I am satisfied that their information may be depended upon. Mr. Barrett, an Englishman, who has commanded vessels on this coast for many years, denies the existence of shoals in the Straits, but thinks that the tide-rips, which at times appear like breakers, has given rise to the opinion entertained of shoals in the Straits.

In running up the Straits on the south side, in clear weather, Stephen's Island may be seen at ten leagues' distance; the land is high, and covered with wood: at the north end of the island are high brown cliffs. From Stephen's Island to Cape Koemaroo the land is high with rugged peaks, and Cape Koemaroo is easily known, being the highest distant land, with two white patches near the point of the Cape, appearing at a distance like two sail under the land. The Brothers, two clusters of white rocks, about forty feet out of the water, are an excellent guide for the Cape. Point Jackson, forming the western entrance to Queen Charlotte's Sound, is a low brown point, and may be known by a small black rock about six feet out of the water, lying about one mile N.E. by E. of the point.

Vessels bound to Queen Charlotte's Sound should not come nearer to Point Jackson than two and a-half or three miles, to clear the reef lying off it; and when the Channel between Motuara Island and the main comes well open, stand in for Motuara Island. For a ship intending to anchor in Ship Cove there are two passages: in that between Motuara and the main lies a reef of rocks covered with kelp, which makes the passage on each side of the reef very narrow, with the disadvantage of being close under the land, and out of the influence of the steady wind: the best and clearest passage is between Long

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Island and Motuara, where you have the advantage of a steady wind and clear channel, the shores of both islands being bold, close to; seven and eight fathoms at quarter of a cable distance.

At about one-quarter cable's distance off the south point of Motuara lies a small rock, awash at low water.

After rounding the south point of Motuara, Ship Cove lies open to your view west: it is the northern of two coves in the same bay. The soundings between Motuara and Ship Cove are ten and eleven fathoms; and if you have a westerly wind, and work into the Cove, you may stand to one-quarter cable's distance on each shore.

The best and most convenient anchorage in the Cove is in ten fathoms, fine dark sand over a clay bottom, good holding ground, about one and a half cable's distance from the sandy beach and watering place, and one cable from the south point, where you are well sheltered from the heavy south-west winds, and near to the watering place. The Tory lay here thirteen days, moored with a hawser to the shore, and filled twenty tuns of water in two days and a-half. There is a very good run of fresh water throug the middle of the beach; the water is soft and good; wood is in the greatest abundance and variety from the water's edge to the tops of the hills; there are several sorts that would answer admirably well for the purposes of ship-building, but it all appears too heavy for masts.

The Cove abounds with fish of many sorts--one resembling a small cod-fish is in great plenty: a few hooks and lines for two hours would procure sufficient for the day's consumption. There is a very good sandy beach on which to haul the Seine in the southern Cove.

This is an excellent place to refit, and in case of necessity, a vessel could heave down to the rocks near the south point of the Cove. The Cove is open to E. and S.E., a wind that seldom blows on this part of the coast; but even in case of a heavy gale from that quarter, there is nothing to fear, as it is protected by Motuara Island.

Supplies of pork and potatoes may be obtained at aneasy rate from the native village in the adjoining Cove to

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the north. Potatoes are so plentiful, that in a few days ten tons were offered for sale.

The natives of this village are missionaries, and well behaved. The chief, Nyarewa, has several certificates from masters of vessels, of his former good conduct, which he has fully merited by what I have seen of him.

If a settlement should ever be made in this Cove, wharfs could easily be built alongside the south shore, alongside of which vessels might lay to discharge their cargoes.

The tides in the Sound are regular, but in entering, attention should be paid to their set on Cape Koemaroo and Point Jackson, as mentioned by Captain Cook. It is high water at Ship Cove, full and change of the moon, at 8h. 59m. P.M.

The latitude of Ship Cove, at the end of the rocks on the south side of the beach, is 41 deg. 5' 45" S., and the longitude, by mean of chronometers from England, is 174 deg. 20' 15" E., only differing three-quarters of a mile to the west from that assigned by Captain Cook. The variation of the compass is 14.20 E.

On the north side of Cook's Straits the land is high, but has not so rugged an appearance as on the other shore. In clear weather Capiti, or Entry Island, may easily be distinguished from Stephen's Island: it has one high hill near the centre, and slopes gradually down to the east and west, and is easily known by referring to the view. The Island of Mana, which lies near the coast between Entry Island and Cape Terrawaiti, is a low flat island with brownish cliffs, and not easily distinguished from the main land on the southern side. Cape Terrawaiti is very conspicuous, terminating in a small mound at the Cape, and sloping abruptly down to the sea, with brown cliffs on the south-west side.

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DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING UP QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND.

VESSELS running up Cook's Straits, and bound to Cloudy Bay, with a northerly wind, would save time and trouble by running up Queen Charlotte's Sound, and through Tory Channel. The following directions will take any vessel up to Point Heaphy in safety. When about mid-channel between Motuara and Long Island, a S.S.W. course will take you up in mid-channel to Point Heaphy. Soundings from Motuara Island gradually deepen from seven and eight to thirty and thirty-five fathoms mid-channel; the shores on both sides of the Sound are bold, and may be approached with safety to one cable distance. In case of night coming on, good anchorage can be found in the coves on either side of the Sound; but I should recommend the western shore, on account of the prevailing westerly and south-westerly winds. The western entrance to the Tory Channel is three-quarters of a mile wide, and is formed by Point Dieffenbach on the southern side, and Point Heaphy on the north. Point Dieffenbach is very remarkable, being a flat cliffy point about forty feet high, the ridge of which runs up to a high peak. Point Heaphy can easily be distinguished, referring to the accompanying views. It is the first projecting point to the west, on the eastern shore, after passing Tui Kaiopi Island, and about two miles distant from the southern part of that island. Care should be taken, in running for this channel, not to take the western arm of the Sound which runs up to W.S.W. for fourteen miles, and has more the appearance of a channel than the entrance to the Tory Channel, and may be known by Round Island, which lies on the western shore about four miles above Point Dieffenbach.

The tides in the Channel run stronger than on any other part of the coast; spring tides between the heads run five knots on the ebb and four on the flood; it flows five hours and ebbs seven.

The soundings in the middle of the Channel are deep, from thirty to thirty-five fathoms; but in passing through

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the Channel, and the tide or wind failing, there is good anchorage in any of the bays, in a line with the points, from seven to ten fathoms. Some of the bays shoal suddenly, inside of a line with the points, particularly about Henry Island on the south shore.

Oyster Harbour on the south shore is an excellent place for a vessel to refit in; and, in case of necessity, may heave down to the rocks at the head of the bay; there being six fathoms close to the rocks. The harbour is land-locked, and perfectly sheltered from all winds. There is a run of fresh water through the sandy beach at the head of the bay.

The principal English settlement on the north side of the Channel is in Barrett's Bay, which is formed by a ledge of white ragged rocks running into the Channel. The best anchorage in this bay is about one cable distant from the outer white rock, in a line with the opposite point of the bay, in seven or eight fathoms. Moor with an open hawser to the S.E.

The eastern entrance to the Tory Channel is easily distinguished by Wellington Head, which is the highest land from Cape Koemaroo, and may be known by its terminating in a remarkable white cliff, which can be seen when off the Brothers; when abreast of Wellington Head the Tory Channel opens to your view. There is a sunken rock lying off the North Head, about one-quarter cable's distance, and two small rocks off the South Head, about five feet out of the water; there is also a small watch rock close to the south shore, a little inside of the heads, and a rock nearly awash surrounded by kelp, about half a cable off the West Point of Hokokurry Bay; but by referring to the plan and accompanying views, a stranger can enter this Channel on the flood tide with safety. There is a tide-rip off each head, which at a short distance may be taken for breakers.

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Port Nicholson lies in the depth of a bay formed by Baring Head on the east side, and Sinclair Head on the west. The land running down to Baring Head is level, terminating in a perpendicular cliff, with a small reef out of water running off it. From Baring Head to Pencarrow Head forming the east head of the port, lies Fitzroy Bay. There are several small reefs out of water running a short distance from the beach round this bay.

Sinclair Head is the termination of a ridge of hills, which ends in a steep bluff, off which lies a long reef of black rocks, mostly out of water, with sharp peaks about twenty feet high, and may be seen several miles off. From this reef to Barrett's Reef, off Point Dorset, are several reefs of black peaked rocks running off the coast; by passing them at the distance of a mile all dangers will be cleared.

The entrance to the port is formed by Pencarrow Head, on the east side (off which lies a reef about one cable distance, out of water), and Palmer Head on the west. Barrett Reef, which is mostly out of water, lies nearly midway between the heads; it is bold close to, ten fathoms a boat's length off the reef.

Chaffers Passage is between Palmer Head and Barrett's Reef. The passage is clear of rocks with deep water, but not so broad as the Eastern Channel, which is the best for a person not acquainted with the port, and the set of the tide more regular. Spring tides run in the narrows about two knots. There are several small reefs stretching off the east shore, in the entrance, mostly out of water; by keeping about one cable distant off the points, the wash rocks lying off them will be cleared.

The soundings are regular in the narrows, ten and eleven fathoms close to the rocks, and eight fathoms one cable off the east shore; the deepest water is near the reef in both channels.

There is a small reef, about half a cable, running off the Pinnacle Rock, which is connected to Point Waddell by a reef, and should not be approached too close. After

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SAILING DIRECTIONS--PORT NICHOLSON.

passing the Pinnacle Rock, the shores are bold on each side; the small rocks lying off the points showing; the deepest water is on the west shore. Between Ward's Island and the main is a narrow channel of three fathoms for small vessels. After passing Ward's Island the soundings are regular, ten, eleven, and twelve fathoms. Somes' Island is steep close to, on each side. There is good anchorage at the head of the port, in eight fathoms, muddy bottom, about half way between Somes' Island and the beach, with the summit of Somes' Island bearing south. The heads of the port will then be shut in, and you are well protected from southerly and north-westerly gales.

Lambton Harbour runs up S.W. by W., four miles and a quarter from Somes' Island; the shores on both sides are bold up to Bellsize Point, off which runs a small sandspit about one cable distant; from this point to the head of the harbour there is from ten to three fathoms, muddy bottom. This harbour is well protected from all winds; wood and water can easily be procured, and it is an excellent harbour for shipping.

Evans' Bay runs in south, two miles and a quarter from off Point Halswell; the shores are bold on each side of the bay, with ten and eleven fathoms in the middle. Burnham Water is east, nearly a quarter of a mile from the head of the bay; it abounds in eels and wild ducks. There is a good sandy beach round the head of the bay for hauling the seine; the natives consider it the best place for fishing.

The River Hutt lies at the east end of the beach at the north head of the port; its main stream runs in a winding direction through the valley to the north. There are several small streams running into it near its mouth; if they were all turned into the main stream from their source, it would make a good navigable river for small craft or steamers. There is a bar at its mouth which nearly dries at low water, and the water is fresh a little inside the beach. The source of this river has not been explored yet, but it is supposed to take its rise in the snowy mountains, about forty miles to the north. On its

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banks is a fine forest of pine trees, where masts and spars could easily be procured.

The rivulet at the west end of the beach is small, and winds into a valley behind the first range of hills: it is a good place for watering, and wood is in great abundance.

The different bays abound in fish of many sorts, particularly the flat fish, which are very large, and a haul with the seine would supply a ship's company for the day.

This port which hitherto has been little known, and generally represented as a bar harbour, certainly ranks among one of the finest in the world; its entrance is easy, the dangers all showing, and plenty of room to work in, with eleven fathoms in the narrowest part, and is capacious enough to contain numerous fleets. The natives are a mild easy race, and but few, who raise potatoes and pigs for barter. This and other advantages that Port Nicholson offers, point it out as the most desirable port in New Zealand for vessels to touch at.

The prevailing winds in Cook's Straits are N.W., nine months out of the twelve. In the winter months, June, July, and August, S.E. and southerly winds prevail; generally blowing in heavy gales, and shifting round suddenly to the opposite point. The S.E. gales generally cause a heavy sea, and on the ebb tide, long tide-rips, which have all the appearance of breakers; and which cause, I think, has given rise to the erroneous opinion generally entertained of the supposed dangers of Cook's Straits.

On the west coast of Tavoi Poenamo the prevailing winds are S.W. all the year round, and during the summer months, December, January, February, and March, it blows with the greatest violence, and has been known to last for two months.

On the eastern coast as far as Cape Campbell, the N.W. and S.E. winds prevail all the year round.

On the west side of Eainomaui, the prevailing winds are N.E. in the summer, and in the winter S.E. and N. W., but are liable to change to W. and south-westerly gales, which in general do not last longer than twenty-

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four hours. A S.E. gale in general lasts four or five days. About Mount Egmont, on the shore there is a regular land and sea breeze during summer, in the morning from the S.W., fresh during the day, and falling calm at night. Off the East Cape and along the coast to the North Cape, in the summer months the prevailing winds are north-easterly, but in the winter months strong westerly gales generally prevail.