1840 - Ward J. Supplementary Information Relative to New Zealand - No. VI. Colonel Wakefield's Third Despatch to the New Zealand Company.

       
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  1840 - Ward J. Supplementary Information Relative to New Zealand - No. VI. Colonel Wakefield's Third Despatch to the New Zealand Company.
 
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No. VI.

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No. VI.

Colonel Wakefield's Third Despatch to the New Zealand Company.

Teawaiti, Tory Channel, Sunday,
13th October, 1839.
SIR,--Having waited since the 9th instant, the date of my last letter to you, in Cloudy Bay, for the arrival of Mr. Barrett, who was to be our pilot across the Strait and on the western coast of the North Island, we came round to this place to-day in search of him. We entered the channel from the south-east, with a favourable wind, against a strong ebb-tide; but it would be unadvisable to do so in a heavy-sailing ship. The Honduras, which takes my last letters and the specimens to Sydney, had the tide in her favour in going in yesterday, but struck on a rock at the northern head, and narrowly escaped being totally wrecked. She is now here, making eight inches water an hour, but will proceed on her destination in a few days. Before leaving Port Underwood, I visited its principal bays and settlements, but saw nothing to induce me to change the unfavourable opinion I entertained of it as a harbour, or a place of settlement for Europeans.

Monday, 14th October.--Finding Mr. Barrett's wife too ill to allow him to leave home, I made arrangements with him to pick him up at the northern entrance to Queen Charlotte's Sound, after I shall have been to Kapiti, and made my preparations for a visit to Raupero and the heads of the Kafia tribe, with no intermediate beyond an interpreter, whom I engaged in Cloudy Bay.

This visit, besides entering into my original plan, according to the suggestion contained in my instructions, is necessary for the ratification of the purchase of Port Nicholson, that no future question shall arise as to the Company's right to that territory, and to put an end to

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HISTORY OF RAUPERO.

the opposition experienced from the subordinate Kafia chiefs in all parts of Cook's Strait.

The history of Raupero is the most eventful and worthy of record of any existing New Zealand chief. His expulsion, and that of all his numerous and powerful tribe, from their native district, Kafia, by the Waikato and Bay of Islands hosts, is well known to you from the mention it has received in numerous works on this country. Their forcible seizure and occupation, in their turn, of all the coast land on both sides of this strait has also been described; but the means he has employed for the aggrandizement of his people, and the causes of his pre-eminence and influence amongst all classes and clans, extending also to the foreign residents and visiters in the southern parts of these islands, have not been dwelt on.

Raupero is at least sixty years old. When a young man, he acquired a reputation for strength and courage, founded on his skill in native warfare, which his wiliness and success in all his undertakings have preserved for him in his old age. He came from Kafia as the fighting general of Ti Pahi; and after the death of the latter at Otago, by Tairoa and the Southern tribes, became chief of the tribe. To revenge Ti Pahi's death, which was accomplished by tying him up by the heels to a tree and cutting his throat, at which his enemies sucked his blood, Raupero engaged with a master of an English vessel, by name Stewart, to carry him and some of his people to Otago, under pretence of a trading-voyage, where the master coaxed on board a leading chief of the tribe and his family.

Some of these were immediately killed; after which Raupero and Stewart, with their myrmidons, landed andlaid waste the settlements, killing every man, woman, and child, that came in their way. The chief who had been enticed on board was made fast in the cabin by a hook through his throat; and in despair at seeing his daughter about to become the victim of these monsters, killed her with his own hands. During the voyage back to Kapiti, the old man was despatched; and it is a fact, that one of the ship's coppers was in use for cooking human flesh for his

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guest, and that Stewart and his crew participated, if not in the feast, in the atrocious murder and revolting preparations for it.

By similar treachery has Raupero acquired his power in other parts, and become the terror of all the neighbouring tribes. Unable to cope with the Nyatiawas, whom he was forced to allow to live on the lands in Queen Charlotte Sound, Port Nicholson, and on the main abreast of Kapiti, when they were driven from Taranake, he is occasionally in alliance with them, and more than once has led them into an encounter with their mutual Southern enemies, for the purpose of deserting them with his people in the midst of the fight; by losses in which manner they have been much thinned. In all negotiations, Raupero is considered skilful, and is referred to upon many occasions. In his dealings with Europeans and Americans, he makes use of alternate begging and extorting measures, according to thepower of resistance to his demands he may meet with; and might, if he had been prudent, be now extremely rich by his trafficking for supplies for ships, and the presents he has received. He receives tribute from numerous petty tribes and slaves; and the stronger tribes are occasionally constrained to purchase peace at his hands.

On the whole, he is disposed to encourage and protect European settlers; and having been several times to Port Jackson, knows how to appreciate the commodities of civilized life.

No longer since than last week, to afford a treat to the chiefs of Nyatiroco, or Boiling-water tribe, who assembled at Mana upon the occasion of the mourning for his sister's death, he sacrificed a slave of the Rhangatanis, who had come from Admiralty Bay with presents of dried fish; but my informant, an Englishman, who saw the unfortunate man being dragged to his fate, says that more disguise as to the disposal of the body was made use of than heretofore, in consequence of Raupero having of late professed himself a Missionary, and that he intended to discourage cannibalism.

In resolving to visit and conciliate this old savage, however strong my repugnance to his character and practices, I

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ENGLISH SAILORS IN NEW ZEALAND.

am more led by the hope of acquiring his land, on which to locate a society which shall put an end to his reign, than by any good wishes to him, and of obtaining influence with his presumptive successor, Hiko, who bears a much better character.

Tuesday, 15th October.--This morning four of our crew left the ship at their own request, with a view of settling at Cloudy Bay. As they were not the best of sailors, and as our crew on leaving England was rather stronger than usual in similar vessels, I acceded to their request to leave us. In the evening, two others deserted to join their comrades, induced by the hopes held out to them by the English on shore of enjoyment of all kinds. As the whaling-season is now over, they will all probably be starving within a month, and will then, if they can find a ship, engage with it. This is the usual practice; but the scarcity of whale-ships in the Strait now leaves many men without resources. The beaches in Cloudy Bay and at Teawaiti present the most miserable scenes of idleness, drunkenness, and recklessness amongst our countrymen.

We left the Tory Channel with the ebb-tide, which sweeps a ship outside of the heads at a rapid rate. The northern headland has long borne the name of "Wellington Head," taken from the first vessel that entered the Sound by this channel. On getting an offing, a fine view of the Strait opens to the view. From Cape Campbell to Cape Koemaroo on the south, and from Cape Palliser to Entry Island on the northern side, every headland and bay is visible. Baring and Sinclair Heads, the outermost points of Port Nicholson, are conspicuous objects. As we beat up the Strait, Mana or Table Island, and the land abreast of Kapiti on the one side, and Queen Charlotte's Sound and the coast as far as Stephen's Island on the other, opened to us. Abreast of Mana is the small river and harbour of Pererua, into which a vessel drawing seven feet can enter at high-water. Next to that river, at about twelve miles distant, and exactly abreast of Kapiti, is Waikanoi, a large settlement of the Ngatiawas. Here commences a low sandy beach, with shoal water a long way out, and runs with little exception to Cape Egmont.

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ARRIVAL AT KAPITI.

In this space of coast, little known to Europeans, and presenting on the charts since the time of Cook the wave-line indicating that no survey has been made of it, there are as many as nine small rivers flowing from the high lands which belt the plains of Taranake and Kafia to the southward. The most considerable of them is Wanganui, or Knowsley River. The coast is open to the swell occasioned by the prevalent winds, and altogether unsuited to examination and survey by large craft. The people, cut off from communication with strangers, carry on a perpetual war against each other.

Kapiti, Wednesday, 16th October.
We came to an anchor to-day off Kapiti, near to Evans's Island, which is a low termination of a reef running off from the former, and the residence and whaling-station of a large establishment carried on by Mr. Evans for Mr.Peterson, of Sydney. We arrived just at the close of a smart engagement which had taken place on the main at about two miles distant, and in sight of our anchorage, between the Ngatirocowas and Ngatiawas. The former mustered in great force from all parts of the coast I mentioned yesterday, and stealing into the pah, or fortified village of the latter in the night, killed some of them as they left their huts at daylight. In the course of the morning, the fighting was carried on on the beach; and ended in the Ngatirocowas being defeated, with a loss of forty-five left dead on the shore, whilst their enemy had but fourteen killed. The quarrel, which is of long standing, was brought to a crisis by the former having killed some sheep at Mana during the late crying-feast, which the latter had tried to protect, and by the irritation produced by contact in the passage of the Ngatirocowas in front of the settlements of the Ngatiawas in their journey to and from Mana. Raupero, with his usual caution, had kept himself out of harm's way, but had gone over late in the contest, with a view, as he told us afterwards, of making peace, but as people here say, with that of encouraging his allies. Finding him absent, and desirous to see at least one party of the belligerents, I mustered an amateur boat's crew, our surgeons taking their instruments with them, in case of

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INTERVIEW WITH RAUPERO.

being able to render assistance to the wounded; and was on the point of starting for Waikanai, the scene of bloodshed, when a boat arrived from Evans's Island with a message from Raupero, expressing his wish to see me there. It appeared that he had landed on the main, but finding his party defeated, and unwilling to trust himself with their opponents, had returned to Kapiti. At the same time, he had seen our ship anchor near his settlement, and had betaken himself with all his valuables to the English whaling-settlement, for protection from some imaginary danger he anticipated from us. This must have arisen in his mind from knowing that he had been making very violent speeches as to his intentions respecting us for purchasing Port Nicholson without his sanction, and threats of snatching from the residents of that place the goods I had left in payment for it. He also had expressed his anxiety to the English whalers, respecting the persons on board; no doubt bearing in mind his own treacherous visit to Otago, for which reason he would not come on board. On our leaping from the boat, he arose from his seat on the beach, and in evident fear, and with the greatest servility, sought our hands to give us the Missionary greeting. It was some time before he was reassured as to our intentions towards him, and during the whole interview betrayed a feeling of insecurity but little consistent with his customary vapouring and insolence.

He made a pious speech about the morning's affair, and declared that he would not interfere; being determined to discountenance further fighting. He accepted my invitation to come on board to-morrow, and hurried away to the settlement of Rangaihiro, an influential but peaceable chief of his tribe.

In person, Raupero is not conspicuous amongst his countrymen, his height being rather under the average. His years sit lightly on him; he is hale and stout, and his hair but slightly touched with grey. His countenance expresses keenness and vivacity, whilst a receding forehead and deep eyelids, in raising which his eyebrows are elevated into the furrows of his brow, give a resemblance to the ape in the upper part of the face, which I have remarked in

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WHALING.

many of the natives. He was cleanly dressed in the ordinary mat and outer blanket, worn as the toga; slow and dignified in his action; and had not his wandering and watchful looks betrayed his doubts as to his safety, perfectly easy in his address.

The whaling-establishment here is most complete, and very superior to those of the poor shore-parties we have seen. Their boats put off after a whale, which came in sight during our visit, and showed a discipline and ensemble in their movements similar to those of a well-regulated man of war. The party has obtained 250 tuns of oil during the season, and the second in command told me he had realized 300l. to his share.

Thursday, 17th October.--This morning our three surgeons went to Waikanai, where they found plenty of work. The Ngatiawa people had fifty wounded in yesterday's engagement. Their opponents carried off as many on their side. Amongst the dead of the latter were two principal chiefs. Several bullets were cut out and preparations made for an amputation to-morrow. Some of the wounds are very dangerous, having been received at close-quarters, and the natives had set many limbs with ligatures of flax. The wounded were found each attended by a relation, and were patient and cheerful under the operations. Several tomahawk and spear wounds evinced the deadly nature of the struggle.

In this instance the Ngatiawas were the aggressed. They have for some months complied with the forms of Missionary worship, and all abjure further wars, except in self-defence. The native Missionaries with them, one of whom we knew in Queen Charlotte's Sound, took arms in the late affair, and were the foremost amongst the combatants. The tribe is about to muster from all parts, and will then probably attack in their turn. The total number of combatants on both sides, after making every deduction for native miscalculation, could not have been less than eight hundred. The Kafia people here remained neutral, with few exceptions; but the sympathies of all seem on the side of the Ngatiawas, who, by their mild conduct since the introduction of Missionary customs, have gained much

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NEGOTIATION FOR THE PURCHASE OF THE KAFIA TERRITORY.

in the opinion of foreign settlers, and even of their moresavage countrymen. Some idea may be formed of their present feelings and habits by a knowledge of the fact, that whilst we were at Port Nicholson, three hundred of these people fell in four deep, and marched to the funeral of Mr. Love, the oldest settler at Teawaiti, to whom they were attached; after which, they enclosed a space around the grave and erected a monument to his memory, by setting up a canoe painted black and white, and otherwise decorated.

Whilst the party was on shore, I received on board Raupero and the other chiefs of the Kafia tribe, with a salute to the New Zealand flag. They all came prejudiced against the sale of any land, in consequence of the English from Cloudy Bay having told them that the white people intended to drive the natives away from any settlements they might form, and also betrayed great jealousy respecting the purchase of Port Nicholson.

After much discussion, they appeared to be convinced of the sincerity of my assurances that the English settlers were coming amongst them as friends, and would better their condition by employing and paying them; and ended by telling me to look at their lands, and, if I found them good, to take them. Raupero and his wife, who is also his step-daughter, stayed to dinner, and the former sat for his portrait to Mr. Heaphy. Some relations of his, belonging to the Ngatirocowa tribe, were also on board, and offered me the land on which that restless tribe resides.

Hiko or Ehiko, the son of Ti Pahi, is the most rising man in this part of the islands. Inheriting from his father large possessions conquered by the Kafia tribe, and from his mother, a Ngatiawa woman of consequence, great influence with the latter, he combines the power of both tribes, and although not yet allowed to take a lead in speaking in their councils, is acknowledged as the virtual chief of the Kafia people; Rangaihiro, his uncle, represents him in all public discussions. These two were distant and shy in their intercourse with all on board, but listened to what I had to say, and acknowledged the justice of my remarks on the benefit to be derived by them from the settlement of the English in the Strait.

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Friday, 18th October.--Raupero was again on board, accompanied by Tunia and other chiefs. After a long conversation, they agreed to sell me all the lands possessed by the Kafia tribe on both sides of the Strait. The negotiation was difficult and disagreeable; none of the good feeling I had met with at Port Nicholson being displayed. Their rights to large portions of territory are, however, indisputable, and if ceded conjointly with those of the Ngatiawas, will entitle the possessors to the commanding portions of the two islands in these latitudes.

Our surgeons were unable to persuade any of their patients to undergo amputation to-day at Waikanai. It appears that the slaughter of the Ngatiawas would have been more considerable, but for the alarm given by a boy of ten years old, who was awake when one of their enemies presented himself at the door of a hut as a spy: he asked for a light, but being recognised by the boy, was shot dead by him on the spot. Raupero had urged the Ngatirocowas to attack, and promised assistance in two canoes with ammunition, but failed in his engagement. He landed on the beach, and was well nigh taken by the Ngatiawas. Their opponents, however, covered his retreat to the water's edge, whence he swam off to his canoe; and they were obliged to retire for want of ammunition.

In the evening, after a strong wind from the north-east during the day, a violent south-east gale sprung up without a moment's notice, and blew with great fury. The sea rose in half an hour, and it was with difficulty a party of us reached the ship from the shore. The roadstead is tolerably protected by a reef from Evans's Island, and the holding-ground good; but of late years the whale-ships have adopted a new anchorage abreast of the two small islands at the south end of Kapiti; but it is not so good as the roadstead where we are, in respect of facility of going to sea, should the gale drive the ship. The land at Waikanai is flat for five miles deep to the first ridge of hills, which are not high, and enclose fine valleys between them and the range of interior mountains. The shore is a collection of sand-hummocks, on which the natives have their villages; but beyond them there is alluvial soil and timber

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in the usual abundance. This flat belt runs, as I have said, to Cape Egmont. The beach is of hard sand, and very broad, affording room for a fine road on its whole length. The produce of this country, which widens from fifteen to thirty miles to the northward, and contains land fit for the plough, might also be transported to Port Nicholson, or elsewhere in the Strait, by means of small steam-vessels, which could call off the rivers during a cessation of the north-west winds; but the nature of the coast, as I have before said, totally prevents constant intercourse with ships.

Saturday, 19th October.--The gale continued to-day with increasing strength, and prevented communication with the shore. The wind in the Strait is seldom the same as at sea to either end of it. The southerly or south-west wind outside, being drawn into the funnel formed by the high land on both islands, becomes, abreast of Cape Terawaiti and the Brothers, which is the narrowest part of the Strait, south-east; and the north wind between New Holland and these coasts assumes an inclination from the north-west when taken in under Cape Egmont. Navigators may therefore expect always to find the wind set through the Strait, and must not be surprised to meet strong tide rips, having the appearance of breakers, even in the most open parts, occasioned by the flowing or receding waters striking off the various capes and headlands, and meeting the wind from whatever quarter it may come.

Monday, 21st October.--It was only this morning that the weather permitted any boats to put off from the shore, when Raupero and some other chiefs came on board. Hiko and his uncle Rangaihiro, who, from being Ti Pahi's brother, is much considered amongst his tribe, came out, however, with them. To those assembled I made a proposal to buy all their possessions, rights, and claims, on both sides of the Strait; which, after they had seen a great portion of the goods I intended to give in payment, was accepted by all. This repetition of the bargain was necessary from the presence of some who had not been at the previous interview, and not thrown away upon those who had: for no native is ever satisfied that a purchase can be effected unless many discussions take place respect-

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ing the terms. The sight of the goods seemed to decide their intentions; the quantity being far beyond what they had ever seen received for any sale of land in their country, and the reality of them convincing them that I had the means of performing my part of the treaty, which is not always the case with the white people the natives have to deal with. A full explanation took place as to the disposal of all their rights. A plan of those parts of the two islands in which they own land by right of conquest or inheritance was diligently examined by them. It was repeatedly told them, to their perfect comprehension, that no future sale of these rights or lands was to be made by them, and that no further payment was to be expected from the purchasing party. The reserve of a suitable portion of the land for the maintenance of the chiefs, their families, and successors for ever, was also dwelt on, and met with their highest approval. They repeatedly declared that they desired more than anything else the residence of Englishmen amongst them; and that they would live with them as brothers, working for them, and receiving from them payment, as the white men they have seen do from their masters.

With this clear understanding they left the ship, promising to return to-morrow to sign the deed and receive the payment.

Tuesday, 22d October.--A succession of north-west gales and Hiko's sickness prevented the completion of the sale to-day. Raupero, constant in his attendance upon any ship where there is anything to be gained by fair or foul means, came to us in spite of the weather. He wished the transactions to be finished without Hiko, who, he said, was a boy, and had nothing to do with the land. He asked for more arms and powder, and declined such articles as blankets, soap, iron ware, &c. "Of what use to us," he cried, "are such things when we are going to war? What does it matter to us whether we die clean or dirty, cold or warm, hungry or full? We must have two-barrelled guns, plenty of muskets, ball-cartridges, powder, lead, and cartridge-paper."

A small vessel arrived to-day from Sydney. She

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THE CHIEF TAIROA.

brought news of the eagerness of the Sydney speculators to buy land in New Zealand upon hearing of the establishment of the Company, and of the probability of the British Government paying attention to the colonization of these islands, and deeds on board from various merchants, to be filled up by the chiefs' names, for various plots of ground for which some trifling consideration might have been given, or for the cession of which some promise has been made by chiefs who have visited Port Jackson.

News also arrived of the arrival at Waikanai of Warepori and his fighting men, from Port Nicholson, to assist the Ngatiawas against the Ngatirocowas; also of the natives in the Bay of Plenty, on the eastern coast, being at war; and lastly, of the progress from the southward of Tairoa with his numerous followers, on a burning and pillaging excursion to Cloudy Bay and Queen Charlotte's Sound. This Tairoa is represented as the most Europeanized chief in New Zealand. He lives at Otago, where he has a large house, built after the fashion of those of English residents, numerous whale-boats, which he employs in taking whales, and an establishment conducted in a similar manner to those of foreign shore-parties. He dresses like an Englishman, and all his people are far more advanced in European habits than any of the other natives of either island. His tribes number about seven hundred fighting men, and as I have before mentioned, have repeatedly ravaged the settlements in Cook's Strait.

Wednesday, 23d October.--This morning, finding that, at the distance the ship was from the shore, little communication could take place during bad weather, we changed our anchorage, and brought up nearer to Hiko's Island, but still, owing to a head-wind and strong tide, at a considerable distance from land. Hiko, Raupero, Rangaihiro, and all the chiefs of the Kafia tribes excepting Rangiata, who resides at Mana, were on board, however, early; and a third talk on the important matter on hand took place, in the presence of at least twenty witnesses, and ended in the full cession to me, for the Company, of all their rights and claims on both islands. I was desirous that a perfect knowledge of what the chiefs were doing should be spread

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NEGOTIATION BROKEN OFF.

amongst all their followers, and encouraged the presence of all who wished to witness the proceedings. Our decks were, in consequence, thronged with natives, male and female. Every one expressed his consent to the sale, and his desire to see the payment made. The goods were accordingly got up and placed on deck. I had asked the principal people whether there was anything beyond the articles I had enumerated in the deed, which they wished for; and had, at Hiko's request, given a bale of clothing, to enable the chiefs to go on board the emigrant-ships in a decent costume. He had also accepted the blankets, soap, and dresses for the women, and had put down the clamour for arms made by all the rest. Nothing remained to be done but to distribute the fowling-pieces, of which there were only a dozen, amongst the leaders, and for them to sign the deed of conveyance. The guns were brought up and placed on the head of the companion-ladder; upon which Raupero, Tunia, usually called the "Wild Fellow," and other fighting chiefs, made a rush at them, and each attempted to possess himself of a double-barrelled piece. Hiko, who was busy in arraying himself in a comfortable coat at the time, no sooner saw that the Kafia people were likely to carry off the most valued property by their old habits of violence, than, calling Rangaihiro and his boat's crew, he threw off his partly-acquired clothes, and left the ship in high displeasure at Raupero and his followers. The negotiation was thus abruptly terminated. I sent the whole of the goods below, and declared the bargain at an end, as I was determined not to proceed without Hiko and his uncle being parties in the transaction. Then arose amongst these lawless and headless savages mutual reproaches and recriminations. Each accused the other of having prevented them from acquiring what all so much wished for. The guilty, in order to exonerate themselves, threw the blame on me. They accused me of partiality to Hiko. "Who was he, that he should be preferred to the old men? What had he to do with the land, that he was to be so much considered?" They even proceeded to make their customary grimaces at me, and the Wild Fellow jumped about the deck as if to commence the exciting

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THE TREATY RESUMED.

dance previous to an attack. "We will sell our lands to the French and Americans," they exclaimed; "we do not want your payment. Presently there will be plenty of ships here from Port Jackson, and to them we will give all we possess. We will go to fight at Port Nicholson, and kill all your people there."

To these taunts and threats I returned either laughter or indifference; which, together with an occasional declaration that, whether we dealt or not, they must conduct themselves quietly or leave the ship, soon brought them to a calmer state. They then begged me to go on with the distribution of the things, and they would sell all their lands, leaving Hiko to arrange for his separately. To this request I refused to accede.

If I had been disposed to feel surprised at the sudden breaking-off of negotiations so nearly brought to a conclusion, or had not been prepared for worse contingencies in the course of my intercourse with these people, I should have felt mortified beyond measure at seeing the sudden and unexpected failure of my efforts to effect a purchase of their territory.

If I did not commiserate the mental condition of a wild race just commencing an interchange with civilized people, and were not aware of the cruel delusions and dishonest practices of most of the foreigners they have seen, towards them, I should have been angry with their violent and perverse conduct; but I should have been ill fulfilling the task assigned to me if I had shown any want of command of temper, or even of countenance, upon the occasion. In a short time we were as good friends as ever, and renewed our conversation respecting the qualities, situation, and produce of their respective residences, with as much earnestness on their part as if the treaty were in full progress.

The wind again rising to a gale, it was found advisable to again shift our anchorage to the shelter of the two small islands. By this time, most of the natives had gone on shore; but Raupero and Tunia remained with a vague hope of obtaining the two guns they had chosen for themselves. Instead of getting immediately to our new berth

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VISIT TO HIKO.

near the islands, it was necessary to tack several times, and at one time we were three miles off Kapiti. The sea ran high, and the gale meeting the flood-tide caused a ripple in which a small vessel would not live. The spankerboom was also broken short in two by a violent flurry. On wearing the ship to regain the islands, it lay in the trough of the sea, and several waves broke over it. At this moment poor Mr. Raupero, the king of New Zealand, as he calls himself, was in a piteous fright; declaring that the vessel would capsize, and, as Nayti assured us, muttering prayers most earnestly. Some jokes, also, as to taking him and the Wild Fellow to Port Nicholson, gave him an ill-disguised uneasiness.

On our anchoring, in the evening, he resumed his usual boasting manner, and did more than usual execution upon our fare at table. He left us as if all negotiations were at an end, and without a promise of returning to-morrow.

Thursday, 24th October.--I went on shore early to Hiko's Island. I found him glad to see me. He showed me round the wretched rock on which he lives, and a canoe he is building; and talked to me a great deal about his father, Ti Pahi, and England. He preserves carefully the presents Ti Pahi had brought with him, and remembers the last instructions he received from him before the expedition to the south, in which he lost his life. These were, shortly, to cultivate the friendship of the English, to keep no slaves, and to be honest in his dealings with all. His conduct proves that he has profited by these injunctions; for he is most friendly with our countrymen, and has made many friends at Sydney--he pays the natives for labour, contrary to the practice of Raupero and the other chiefs who own slaves, and never asks to be paid twice for anything he may sell.

He is well aware of the nature of a bargain, and asks a larger price for his pigs, cattle, and wood, than those who, by force of threats or importunity, obtain repeated payment for the same object. His person is tall and distinguished, and his countenance and manner extremely winning. The influenza, which has prevailed lately here,

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CONCLUSION OF THE PURCHASE.

has affected his health, and physical weakness adds to his naturally quiet and unpresuming demeanour.

After our conversation, which we managed to carry on without an interpreter, he and Raupero came on board with me, unattended by any followers. I also took with me Captain Lewis, a respectable American, resident as a whaler on Hiko's Island. When on board alone, the two chiefs seemed to agree to lay aside their mutual jealousies. They looked over the plates in Cook's Voyages, and talked of the English having been the first to come to see their country. They then begged to have the deed of conveyance read to them. This was done, in the presence of Captain Lewis and all our party, and translated in all its important parts to their perfect understanding. The map of the territory to be ceded was also again shown to them; and they pointed out to what places they had claim, and told me that no one lived on most parts of it, and that a great deal of it was of no use to any one, and least of all to them.

They then executed the deed, and taking their double-barrelled guns, said they would send the other chiefs to sign when the remainder of the goods should be delivered, and went on shore.

On looking at the accompanying map of those parts of the two islands bordering on Cook's Strait, in which I have thus acquired possessions for the Company, and extending from the 38th to the 43d degree of latitude on the western coast, and from the 41st to the 43d on the eastern, you will readily conceive that I have not obtained a title to all the land included within those parallels. It is necessary, in order properly to appreciate the extent and value of the purchase, to know the different possessors and claimants of the above territory. The whole extent is owned by the Kafia, the Ngatiawas, the Ngatirocowa, and the Wanganui tribes. An immense portion on the Southern Island is uninhabited; but having been conquered by the Kafia people, is acknowledged to be theirs. Queen Charlotte's Sound and Wanganui, near Cape Farewell, are occupied by the Ngatiawas. On the Northern Island within the above-named boundaries, the Kafia tribe has

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OBSERVATIONS ON FORMER PURCHASES.

but few possessions; whilst the Ngatiawas possess and inhabit Port Nicholson, Waikanai, and other small portions. The Ngatiawas occupy the district of Otaki, between Waikanai and Wanganui; and the last-mentioned district is occupied by a numerous tribe of the same name.

In order therefore to complete the rights of the Company to all the land unsold to foreigners in the above extensive district, it remains for me to secure the cession of their rights in it from the Ngatiawas, and in a proportionally small tract from the Ngatirocowas and Wanganui people. Before leaving the Strait, I have sanguine hopes of being able to effect this with the former tribe, and have already opened a negotiation by means of one of the principal chiefs of Queen Charlotte's Sound, who has been living on board during our visit here. As to the Ngatirocowa district, time will not allow me to treat with its actual possessors, even if the war in which they are engaged, and their unsettled state, permitted them to pay attention to the subject. The Kafia tribe has the same claim to that part of the country, also, which it had to Port Nicholson and Queen Charlotte's Sound; and this claim I have by to-day's purchase acquired. I do not, however, lay much stress on the possession of claims on land which a numerous tribe holds by the strong title of occupancy.

As regards the purchases made previous to this day's date in the neighbourhood of the Strait by foreigners, they are, I feel assured, too insignificant to interfere with the views of the Company. Here and there a small bay may have been purchased and settled on by whalers in Cloudy Bay and the Sound, but no extensive district has been acquired from either the Kafia or the Ngatiawa tribes; and, in my belief, no regular document has been made upon any occasion, and in most cases of occupation of this kind no consideration has been given for the land.

Mr. Wynen, whom I have mentioned, pretends to have bought a tract of land up the Oyerri or Pelorus river; but the chiefs here who claim all that district, have repeatedly declared to me that they do not recognise the bargain, as he gave them no payment, but has promised to have a ship from Sydney with goods for that purpose. In many other

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instances within my knowledge the chiefs do not recognize the rights of British claimants, from want of a consideration having been received; whilst in others, where payment was made, no document recording the transaction exists. In all the vessels now arriving from Sydney, deeds are brought to be filled up and signed, in consequence of the land having lately acquired a marketable value; but whenever the time may come when a commission shall examine the titles to land in these islands, it will be found that but very few written records of purchases, prior to this day's date, of any portion of land within the boundaries of my purchase, can be produced.

Be this as it may, I have by to-day's deed acquired the land in possession and claimed at this time by the Kafia chiefs and the clearly-acknowledged rights of Hiko, as connected with that and the Ngatiawa tribe; have overcome the most difficult step towards the exclusive possession of the rights of these tribes; and have received a solemn ratification of my previous purchase of the district of Port Nicholson, which was only questioned by the parties to the late sale.

In purchasing on the large scale I have done in this transaction--in marking the boundaries of territory acquired, upon the fullest and most satisfactory explanation and examination, by parallels of latitude--I conceive that I have obtained as safe and binding a title as if the subject of negotiation had been but a single acre, and defined by a creek or a notched tree; and it must be remembered that nine-tenths of the land is without an inhabitant to dispute possession, and that the payment I have made to the owners is large when valued by the standard of exchange known amongst them, and perfectly satisfactory to the sellers.

Respecting the value of the land to the Company I do not pretend to give a decided opinion. My remarks on the mountainous nature of the northern end of the Southern Island will produce an unfavourable impression as to its eligibility for a place of settlement for the British emigrant, which my testimony to the good qualities of its soil and climate will scarcely remove. The numerous excellent harbours in the Strait must not be forgotten in the enu-

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DISTRIBUTION OF THE GOODS.

meration of its advantages; and in these there are many districts of flat land available with little labour and outlay.

Friday, 25th October.--At daylight this morning the whole of the chiefs and numerous members of their families came on board, anxious to complete the sale. The deed was again produced, and thoroughly explained to all. It was executed by all the chiefs present. Raupero and Charley signed it by proxy for some relations at Cloudy Bay, who are not of consequence in the disposal of the land, but who will receive part of the payment by their names being recorded. The signature of Rangaiata is to be obtained at Mana, and his portion was left on board to insure it. The affair was concluded most amicably, and without further discussion or dissension amongst the chiefs. They begged me to distribute the fowling-pieces as I thought fit; and it happened that my selection was satisfactory to all. The remainder of the goods were taken on shore in our boats and placed in order on the beach, where we saw a very peaceable distribution take place in the course of the day. Various rumours reached me of the opinion of the natives as to the sale and payment. Some said that they had sold land which did not belong to them, alluding to the districts occupied by the Ngatiawas, which I have yet to purchase of that tribe; whilst others betrayed a notion that the sale would not affect their interests, from an insufficiency of emigrants arriving to occupy so vast a space, to prevent them retaining possession of any parts they choose, or of even reselling them at the expiration of a reasonable period.

No one was so rejoiced at the termination of this noisy and troublesome bargain as myself; and after the natives had left the ship, a party of us landed on Kapiti, and enjoyed an excursion to its summit, the more from having been so long confined by bad weather, and the late negotiations. This island, from the excessive steepness of the hills which form it, can never become of great value to the agriculturist. Its shores are nearly perpendicular, and of great height. On the top are occasional table-lands, onwhich the timber has been burned, and where a good pas-

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ISLANDS OF KAPITI AND MANA.

turage grows. The valleys are narrow, and afford no temptation to the settler. The island is about fifteen miles in circumference. On the side towards the main, which is distant about five miles, there is a long point of flat land, on which is a lagoon. On this part, as well as on another point at the east end, are some twenty or thirty head of cattle, owned by Hiko and Raupero, but claimed by Mr.Cooper, of Sydney, who sent down the original stock to be placed under the charge of the former chief. From the heights is a fine view of the Waikanai country, with many of its small rivers debouching in the Strait, and of Mana, distant sixteen miles. The latter island is not half the size of Kapiti, but is perfectly level on its wedge-like summit. There are many cattle and more than 500 sheep on it, which thrive well. Both these places are excluded from my purchase, and will be the subject of many disputes, plots of them having been sold over and over again to different parties. The north-west eminence of Kapiti is well adapted for a light-house, from which vessels entering the Strait from the westward would take a departure; and which, in conjunction with one on Baring Head, would be of the greatest value to navigators. The steepness of Kapiti renders the roadstead subject to violent flurries of wind, which are dangerous to shipping. Yesterday our cutter was capsized on coming from shore, and Mr. Heaphy and Mr. Robinson narrowly escaped drowning. A canoe brought off the former from the boat, which we saved, as it floated down near the ship, bottom upwards. Thothers with difficulty reached the shore by swimming on the oars. Since we have been here it has never ceased blowing hard. This afternoon a brig from Sydney, which has been drifting about in the Strait for five days, contrived to anchor in the roadstead. No one in her knew the coast; and being as badly found as most Sydney trading-vessels usually are, there positively being no binnacle and only a small-boat compass on board, and no chronometer, it wasmiraculous that she was not lost, as many others we have heard of have been on these coasts within these few years. But with the best ships the Strait is not to be played with. Even in our well-equipped ship, the skill and vigour of

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CHARACTER OF RAUPERO.

her commander, which are of no ordinary character, have been often taxed during our short visit.

Saturday, 26th October.--I visited to-day the small island on which Raupero lives. It partly belongs to Captain Mayhew, an American, who has a store on it. The habits of the old chief are conspicuous in this place. A miserable house, tabooed for himself and wife, with one end parted off for his son, offers no temptation to his enemies, nor calls forth the envy of his rival allies. Near it are piled up cases of tobacco, of cotton goods, and of the various objects which he has begged or extorted from the masters of vessels anchoring here. These are covered with dead brushwood, and are narrowly watched by his slaves. He seldom stays long in any place, but goes from settlement to settlement, often in the night, to avoid any design against his life from his foes on the main. He came on board in the afternoon on one of his pillaging visits, and after talking largely, dropped into his begging tone. Finding me proof against threats and entreaties, as a last resource to obtain a present, he proposed to me to go on shore to see a young girl. Notwithstanding the many bad qualities of this old man, his blustering, meanness, and unscrupulous treachery, he possesses some points of character worthy of a chief amongst savages. He is full of resources in emergencies, hardy in his enterprises, and indefatigable in the execution of them. He has tried to coax Nayti to give him everything he brought from England; and even seized a gun I had given the former, and would have carried it off, had I not accidentally met him on the deck and shamed him into restoring it. When our boat was upset, it was supposed that Nayti was in it; upon which he, with instant readiness, claimed his chest and all belonging to him; and was, I feel sure, chagrined at hearing that his kinsman was safe.

Making every allowance for his condition, and knowing how his intercourse with the refuse of European society has affected him, it is impossible for the most charitable to have any feelings towards this old fellow but those of aversion. It will be a most fortunate thing for any settlement formed hereabouts when he dies; for with his life only will end his mischievous scheming and insatiable cupidity.

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VISIT TO THE NGATIAWA TRIBE.

Sunday, 27th October.--The weather, for the first time during ten days, allowed a boat to cross over to the main. I went to Waikanai; taking with me Ebattu, the son of Toroa, the two principal chiefs of that place and of Queen Charlotte's Sound. On landing, we were greeted by the acclamations of the numbers assembled at the place in expectation of a second attack from the Gnatirocowas. As soon as it was known that I had come to talk about the land, a rush was made for the usual place of meeting on public occasions; and in a few minutes a large arena was entirely covered with people, seated in their peculiar posture in perfect silence, anxious to hear the speeches of the elders. A place was made for me on the side of the canoe; and during the discussion all eyes were fixed on me, as if to read in my countenance the effect of the eloquence of the orators. Ebattu introduced me as a good man, who liked the natives, and who would bring a great many white people to live amongst his tribe, and an English Missionary to teach them. A low murmur of approbation ran through the assembly at the conclusion of his speech. Some of the elder chiefs then addressed us, and coincided in granting me all their lands upon condition of receiving arms and ammunition to enable them to defend themselves and people from their enemies. They declined blankets, clothing, and tobacco; nothing was wanted but implements of war. Through an interpreter I asked them how they, professing peace and Missionary customs, thought of nothing but fighting: and they answered, that though they would not allow their potatoes to be peeled on a Sunday, and prayed in the chapel three times a day, they were now obliged to be armed and to fight in defence of their houses and children; and they persisted in their demand of arms.

After visiting their village, which is the largest we have seen, and tolerably fortified, and seen their wounded, I persuaded three of the chiefs to accompany me on board to see Raupero, with a view of putting an end to their quarrel with the Gnatirocowas. On approaching the ship, they evinced the greatest fear, declaring that Raupero would take their heads. Soon after being on board I sent for Raupero and his fighting general Rangiaiata, who had

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DEPARTURE OF NAYTI.

arrived from Mana. When these came on deck, and saw the three Ngatiawa chiefs sitting down with their faces half hidden in their mats, they betrayed great surprise, and made their customary warlike grimaces. Then, from, I conclude, remembering that the ship was no place to show any hostile demonstrations, they advanced to them, and rubbed noses with them in succession. A few other usual mournful salutations followed; when Raupero made them a long speech, asking them, "Why they hid their faces? was he not their friend, and glad to see them?" Many speeches on both sides succeeded; all in the spirit of peace. In those of the Ngatiawas was introduced an improvized recitative, harmoniously and gracefully uttered, and expressive of feelings of good-will and friendship. One of these finished with a satirical allusion to the habits of the Kafia residents at Kapiti, to the effect that, if left to themselves, the Gnatiawas would stand and look on at the former drinking their strong waters.

On the whole, the meeting had the effect intended; many disputes amongst the natives originating in misrepresentations of third parties, and ceasing so soon as they have spoken of their grievances face to face; and but for my knowledge of Raupero's duplicity, I should think that he would use his influence to put a stop to further hostilities. After the reconciliation, came lengthy details of the late fight, in which the most trivial incidents were mentioned, and lasted till sunset. In all descriptions by the natives these petty details are introduced; particularly in their accounts of journeys, in which they will relate with great earnestness where they halted to cook, or on what tree they killed a bird.

Nayti came to me in the afternoon, and begged permission to visit his father at Mana; our voyage to that place having been rendered unnecessary by the arrival of Rangiaiata. He proposes to stay with his relations till the emigrant-ships arrive, when he will join his friends who may settle at Port Nicholson. I had little to oppose to his request. Of late he has been worse than useless as an interpreter, having led me into error several times; but I requested him to stay on board, as a friend of the party

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DEPARTURE OF NAYTI.

with whom he had made the voyage from England; and represented to him the unhappiness he would undergo when stripped of his clothes by his friends, and deprived of the comforts to which he has been of late accustomed. He assured me, that he was very happy on board, but that he wished to see his friends; that his cousins had come for him in a large canoe, and that he would look out for the emigrant-ships. He has been induced to this step partly by his fear of Raupero and his people, who have threatened him, and partly by fear of going to the Waikato country and Kaipara, where the natives might revenge themselves upon him for some injury done to one of their tribes long ago. The expedition will rather benefit by his absence during these visits; for, as a general rule, it is unadvisable to have a native on board a ship bound to the port of a tribe unfriendly to his own.

Monday, 28th October.--Rangiata, the chief of Mana and the land on the main abreast of it, executed the deed of conveyance this morning. His signature completes the document as regards the Kafia tribe. The three chiefs of the Ngatiawas, whom I had brought from Waikanai, declined proceeding with me to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I wished them to combine with the heads of the tribe resident there in conveying their rights to me. They pleaded, with justice, the danger to their families during their absence, from their neighbouring enemies, but deputed one of their sons to accompany me, who is empowered to act for them. In the mean time, they have promised me that they will part with no land until my return. If time had permitted, I could have concluded the bargain for their lands, although I should have hadsome difficulty in satisfying them in respect to arms, with which I am ill provided. No scruples would have deterred me from putting ever so large a quantity in their possesssion, as I feel sure that not only will they, in this case, prevent a war of aggression on the part of their enemies, but that they will be readily supplied by some party from Sydney, desiring the land, in case the owners determine to become the attacking force. The three chiefs, notwithstanding their fears of Raupero, and though saying

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ARRIVAL AT MANA.

that they intended to take refuge with Hiko till the wind was fair for their return to Waikanai, on leaving the ship, landed at Raupero's island, and were received by him on the beach. I hope that this confidence in him, which I had advised, was the effect of their meeting on board, and will be the means of a permanent reconciliation.

Nayti left us this evening, in spite of my advice to him to remain on board. He was very frank and well-behaved on taking leave of us, and assured us he should be very comfortable on shore till our return. He took with him a supply of what he considered requisite, and all his clothes and presents received in England left to him by his rapacious friends. Notwithstanding his assurances, I am disposed to think that his mode of departure, though partaking of the polite habits acquired amongst Englishmen, was one of those artful deceits commonly practised by all savages resuming their original station after an intercourse with civilization.

Tuesday 29th October, Mana.
We weighed anchor at daylight, hoping to be in Queen Charlotte's Sound in the afternoon. We had nearly entered between its headlands, when a terrific north-west gale caught us, and, with the strong ebb-tide, nearly drove us on the "Two Brothers." In wearing, to stand off the shore, our fore-yard was carried away; and it was a question for a time, whether the ship, excellent as her sailing qualities are, would weather the dangerous rocks off these islands. After getting clear of them, we hove-to till the rain and mist dispersed; and finally, were obliged to run for Mana, where we brought up in the evening, not sorry to be at anchor even in this bad roadstead till the gale subsides.

Wednesday, 30th October.--On the side of Mana, facing the main, is a small amphitheatre, formed by the hills, which slope up to its wedge-shaped summit I have spoken of, and which to the sea face are precipitous. We landed, and walked over the whole island. It is in most parts a good sheep-walk, but in its small valleys there is good feeding for cattle, of which there are thirty head. There are also two draught horses belonging to the owner of the

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QUARRELS OF ENGLISH PROPRIETORS.

island. The settlement is abreast of our anchorage, at the foot of the slope; and consists of the owner's house and small whaling station, and the huts of Rangiaiata and forty or fifty resident natives. Mana, however, often serves as a rendezvous for the Kafia tribe and the Gnatiawas, when on friendly terms, where they meet on neutral ground. At the late crying-feast, as many asthree thousand people met here, and during their visit were very annoying to the English settlers, by killing fifty sheep and committing other depredations.

We found here the last purchaser of the island, between whom and the late proprietor a dispute as to their rights had arisen, in consequence of our expedition having so much enhanced the value of the place as to induce the latter to wish to call off from the bargain. A resort to New Zealand law is talked of to obtain possession, and all arbitration was refused. Several other Sydney people were also here, anxious to buy land in the Strait, and were not a little discountenanced by learning that the chiefs had made over all their rights on both sides of Cook's Strait to the Company. One of them told me that we were just in time, as deeds and property for payment may be expected in every vessel from Sydney. They all, however, expressed satisfaction at the probability of a settlement being formed at Port Nicholson, where some law and order will exist, and regretted having neglected buying land in that harbour. Every day brings fresh proof of the speed of our outward voyage having frustrated the intentions formed by the New Holland speculators on receiving the news of our departure and destination, as regards this part of the islands.

Thursday, 31st October, East Bay, Queen Charlotte's Sound.
The weather having changed, and our repairs effected, we crossed the Strait this morning, and anchored in this bay instead of Ship Cove, for the convenience of being nearer to the grove at the head of the Sound, whither it was necessary to send to procure a spar for a fore-yard. I was also desirous to be near the principal settlement in the Sound, in order to conclude my treaty with the Gnatiawas, for the sale of their rights in the neighbourhood of the

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VISIT TO TEAWAITI.

Strait. As soon as we entered the bay, many natives came off, who had heard of the object of our visit. I landed in Grass Cove, where Captain Furneaux's boat's crew was murdered, and walked over the island of Alapawa to Ocacurri, from whence I got a canoe to Teawaiti. The hills are extremely difficult of ascent, and incapable of other cultivation than for the growth of the vine and Indian corn. On coming in sight of Ocacurri, the chief, who accompanied us, requested us to fire off our guns; the report from which brought in answer a continued discharge of muskets until we reached the village. Here we found assembled about 200 men in a state of great excitement, and preparing to start in their canoes for Waikanai, to carry on the war against the Gnatirocowas. My companion and myself, with the Waikanai chief, had to go through the ceremony of shaking hands with every one in the settlement, ranged round the place of public meeting. After this operation, a tangi commenced in honour of the chief's arrival, and to the memory of their friends who had fallen in the late fight. So soon as we could escape, we left the village, where E Wite remained to talk about the land. At Teawaiti we found the same warlike preparations, and heard of a general muster of the tribes desirous to attack their enemies, and of the determination of one of the chiefs to land with sixty picked men on Raupero's island, for the purpose of carrying off that old chief, who had killed his father some years ago. A violent outcry for arms prevailed, and any quantity of pigs was offered in exchange.

Friday, 1st November.--I visited Ocacurri again this morning, in company with Mr. Barrett, and prevailed on the chiefs to postpone their hostile voyage until the negotiations for the sale of their land should be completed. They promised to meet me in East Bay, and to bring with them all the principal owners of the Gnatiawas; after which I returned to the ship in a whale-boat, pulled by a native crew. During the whole distance of twenty-five miles, most part of the day against a strong wind, they pulled with unceasing vigour, and equalled an European crew. We found lying in the bay a Danish whale-ship, which, on its way to Cloudy Bay in search of seamen, had

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TREATY WITH THE GNATIAWAS.

followed us into the Sound. It is the first vessel of its nation which has made the voyage to the South Sea. The master, an intelligent man, has undertaken the voyage in the hope of finding a profitable employment for ships from Bremen.

Saturday, 2d November.--The chiefs owning land in the Sound, came on board, accompanied by a great crowd of inferiors. After some discussion the meeting was adjourned, and a small beach abreast of the ship appointed as the place of future assembly on the subject. Thither Mr. Barrett and myself accompanied the chiefs, when an earnest debate arose as to the disposal of their rights. It appeared that but few of those present claimed land anywhere but hereabouts, but all were willing to cede all their rights to territory wherever situated; and by their cession, a title would be acquired to the whole of the Sound, and to those places which the Kafias and Gnatiawas claim jointly, by reason of joint conquest from the original tribe. Two places would then remain to be purchased from other Gnatiawa people resident on them; the first, Waikanai and its neighbourhood; and the second, Taitap, including Wanganui, to the southward of Cape Farewell, to secure a complete title to the territory mentioned as comprised within the 38th and 43d degree of latitude.

These two spots must be left for a more leisure time, but are not likely to attract the attention of others--the first being now the seat of war, and the other lying in an out-of-the-way corner; besides belonging to the relations of my friends here, who will advise its being kept for thesame purchasers as at this place.

From the want of a single leader, as in Port Nicholson, much idle talking took place to-day, and the meeting brokeup without any decision. To-morrow two other chiefs will be summoned from higher up the Sound, to a last consultation. In the mean time, however anxious I am to go northwards, the necessity of replacing our fore-yard at present prevents the ship's departure.

The natives here, some of the ancient possessors of Taranake, are very desirous that I should become the purchaser of that district, in order that they may return to

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COUNTRY ROUND EAST BAY.

their native place without fear of the Waikata tribes. They will yield all their claims on the district to the Company, but stipulate for the same reservation of land for Mr. Barrett and the children of the late Mr. Love, as for the native chiefs. These two Englishmen having lived for so many years amongst the Taranake people during the wars, and having had children born of native wives on the spot, have been long considered as belonging to the tribe. Mrs. Barrett and her children are on board, and will, it is thought, be very conducive, amongst the resident natives, to an acquisition of the territory.

Sunday, November 3d.--I went round East Bay, and landed at all the settlements with a view to see the nature of the land in any of the spots suited for the location of immigrants. I found many delightful bays eligible for small settlements. A considerable space of open flat land, of excellent quality, with a gradual slope up the hill-sides, spreads itself out at the bottom of these bays, in which is a safe anchorage in all weathers. Large potato-grounds and plots of wheat, and tarra, a sort of yam, are cultivated in these places. The native settlements are very small, and the few residents enjoy great abundance. The water literally swarms with fish. The sort in season during the summer is the baracouta, and is taken by the natives with a rod and line of a few feet in length, at the end of which is a small thick piece of wood with a crooked nail in it. The fish do not take an ordinary bait; but with this peculiar implement the natives will take many hundreds in a day, and often have many tons weight of them dried for sale. It is the best fish we have yet eaten of in this country.

I found all the settlements nearly deserted, the inhabitants having removed to an island near our ship for the convenience of assisting at the conferences respecting the land. The people from the southern entrance to the Tory Channel were assembled in one bay, occupied in prayers and singing, and talking over the transaction. In their visits upon similar occasions, the natives always put up in some cove apart from other tribes, with which they may be ever so closely allied, and bring with them their stock of provisions for the period of their absence from home.

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PROGRESS OF THE NEGOTIATION.

Thus in every small bay near the ship are assembled in different parties nearly all the people of the Sound, waiting the result of the negotiations, to the number of nearly 300; but the respective tribes, five in number, included in the collective appellation of Gnatiawas, remain separate, except for the object of their meeting.

East Bay is nearly six miles in length, and almost as large as Port Nicholson. Cook's chart of the Strait lays it down with his usual accuracy. Our time has not allowed Captain Chaffers to survey the Sound, or to put Cook's chart of it on the same scale as his own of the Tory Channel, sent to you with my last packet; but the two can be easily combined, so as to complete a correct chart of the whole extent.

On returning to the ship in the evening, I found a deputation from all the tribes, which announced that they had finally determined to sell to me all their possessions and claims in both islands, in the same manner that the Kafia chiefs had done. They requested that the payment might be divided for them by me, as the want of a prominent leader amongst them might otherwise occasion disputes.

Monday, 4th November.--A few of the chiefs were on board to describe the places owned by them, and to see the goods offered in payment. The deed was drawn from their description, and was satisfactory to all; but, owing to its length, the affair could not be concluded to-day. News arrived that a vessel had arrived at Kapiti with agents from Messrs. Cooper and Levi, of Sydney, instructed to take possession of that island. It is not probable that the Kafia chiefs will allow them to perform this task, even if the many white men who have bought portions of land on it lately offered no resistance. The vessel is to proceed to the south with cattle, to be placed on land claimed by the same parties.

Tuesday, 5th November.--Bad weather prevented thenatives coming on board to-day to complete tile sale.Many points respecting European purchases of land alsorequired to be understood. No delay occurred, however,as the fore-yard was not finished. The spar out of which

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PROGRESS OF THE NEGOTIATION.

the yard is made was eighty feet in height, of an equal girth. It is of the tree called the Towa, the wood of which is very tough and durable. West Bay, in this Sound, abounds in this timber.

Wednesday, 6th November.--The rain had driven home many of the chiefs, who did not return to-day. No temptation will induce a New Zealander to make a journey or go in a canoe in bad weather; and I have heard a chief say that he would walk over such a hill the next day "if the wind were fair." We buried to-day a seaman, a native of the Marquesas Islands. He had been long in a consumption. The ceremony was attended by many natives, who expressed their satisfaction with its solemnity. The Ngatiawas now bury their dead in coffins, and read prayers over the grave.

Thursday.--Torrents of rain kept everybody on board below, and prevented the arrival of the natives. We had news of Mr. Smith at Port Nicholson. He is on excellent terms with the natives, who are building seven large houses, and making other preparations for the reception of the expected settlers.

Friday, 8th November.--Soon after daylight the natives began to come on board, and by twelve o'clock more than two hundred had assembled on the deck, including all the chiefs in the Sound. A good deal of speaking took place; and the principal man, E Hawe, enumerated the places which the residents here possess or claim. With so many to satisfy, I found myself called upon to give them a second tierce of tobacco, which produced a sensation of satisfaction; after which, the chiefs and elders sent some of the crowd on shore, and the business of allotment and distribution began. Many white people having been in the habit of cutting timber on an extensive scale, it was necessary to have an understanding on the subject for the future; and one and all of the chiefs assured me that the place was now sacred for me, and that no one should establish saw-pits in the grove at the head of the Sound, or otherwise use the land or its produce except for the purpose of planting potatoes for their own consumption.

Although it was satisfactory to have so numerous a

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ALTERCATION ON BOARD SHIP AMONG THE NATIVES.

meeting, and to witness the unanimity that prevailed in it respecting the disposal of the land, the scene was by no means so gratifying as that of the conclusion of the purchase of Port Nicholson. In the latter, the people were under the perfect control of one man, and were sincere in giving their land for the sake of having white people come to live amongst them. They consequently looked upon the consideration as a secondary object, and relied on their chief for a fair distribution. In this instance, no one of paramount influence was present to give the people confidence and insure satisfaction. Moreover, they were not assured that an immediate location of settlers would take place here, and having but little to look forward to, turned all their attention to obtaining the greatest amount of payment possible; and being much in the habit of dealing with white people who have abused their ignorance, looked suspiciously at the transaction, as if they imagined that an advantage was intended to be taken of them. When the allotments to the different tribes had proceeded some time, a violent dispute arose amongst one tribe, the Pukatap, which threatened to put an end to the purchase; and it was not till I had persuaded the chief of it to send away some of his people under a threat of putting all the things below and going to sea, that anything like peace was restored. More than one hundred men still remained on the deck; and as the goods might now be considered delivered to them, although I allowed the distribution of them to be made on board, I took advantage of the momentary calm to secure the signatures of the chiefs to the number of thirty. No sooner had the distribution recommenced, than a more violent altercation took place amongst the individuals of the tribe which had quarrelled with another tribe in the morning. Half of the goods had been sent on shore for some of the tribes, and the Pukatap chief was proceeding with the distribution to his followers, when some one called out to make a rush for the remainder. In a moment the most tumultuous scene we have ever witnessed took place, and a general scramble, in which many blows were exchanged, and in which the more violent, throwing off their clothes, evinced a disposition to proceed

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to a serious fight. No intercession was of the least avail. The only answer received by those who attempted it was, that it was a native quarrel, and that no harm would happen to us. This scene of violence only ceased when all the goods had been appropriated; and then the principal performers in it expressed themselves much ashamed of their conduct. I understand that the tribes which had taken their goods on shore, after mustering all their friends and followers to the number of nearly three hundred, had a similar, if not more unfriendly distribution; and that the men loaded their arms, and were at one time on the point of recurring to them for a decision of the dispute. E Hawe was slightly cut in the arm in the affray.

These scenes are, I am assured, mild in comparison with those that have taken place on much smaller distributions of property, and need cause no alarm to any one witnessing them. Such a rapid change has taken place, however, in the habits of these people within these few years, that one may expect the total cessation of dissensions amongst them soon; and it must be recollected that the transaction I have had with them has been dissimilar to any in which they have been engaged. In all their small sales to white people, a chief or two has taken the payment for the small plot of ground sold, and used it as he pleased. In this purchase I have united the consent of various small tribes and numerous chiefs and proprietors; have assembled as many natives as possible in order to give publicity to the affair; and have attempted to satisfy not only the chiefs, but each individual of the tribes amongst whom I hope to see settlers located.

The affair was concluded before dark, and quietness restored in the ship. Never did ship witness such a scene of violence without bloodshed. If any one should wish to take a lesson of patience and control of temper, let him have a few dealings with a numerous collective New Zealand tribe, and he will find himself proof against any annoying occurrences which he may meet with in the transaction of business in civilized communities.

Saturday, 9th November.--I landed this morning and took possession of the land in the name of the Company.

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NORTH AND SOUTH DURHAM.

The wind prevented our leaving the Bay as I had intended. I send copies of the two deeds, which make the title to all the late possessions and claims of the Kafia and Ngatiawa tribes, with a chart of the district.

To distinguish the possessions of the Company, which so greatly predominate in this extensive territory, I have called it "North and South Durham;" and I hope that "the day will come" when a British population, availing itself of the natural advantages of these two provinces, will render them worthy of their name.

Sunday, 10th November.--A north-west gale still detained us here, but with every prospect of being able to sail to-morrow. I expect to be a week at Taranake, and to acquire the large district I have spoken of; after which we shall proceed to Kaipara.

I have no letters from England, but understand that some have gone to the Bay of Islands for me; in which case it will be some time before I receive them, as the vessel conveying them was to proceed to Cloudy Bay.

Kapiti, 11th November.
Being under a promise to take back the Chief E. Wite and the Missionary who had been a witness to the late sale to Waikanai, we sailed for this place yesterday; but owing to a strong north-west wind, only reached it to-day. We found all the natives in great commotion on account of the preparations making for war on the main. The Ngatiawas muster 800 fighting men, and can be reinforced to the number of 600 more if occasion requires. Their adversaries are not so numerous, but, living all on the same spot, can easily be collected for an assault; which the former are prevented from making whilst assembled, by the missionaries, who will only fight in self-defence. Warepori and many of his people are at Waikanai, which circumstance is retarding the preparations making at Port Nicholson for the settlers.

A barque has been here from Sydney to purchase land for Messrs. Cooper and Levi. The master and agent have once more bought this island, as well as some land at Waimea, on the main. Probably exceeding his instructions, he professed himself ready to buy any land to pre-

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DETENTION AT KAPITI.

vent the Tory from obtaining it; and in this spirit has contracted for the Oyerri river under a promise of giving a small schooner for it, although every one here informed him that the chiefs had made over all their rights to me a few days before. The vessel is gone to the south on a similar errand.

Tuesday, 12th November.--A calm prevented our sailing. Warepori paid us a visit. He is extremely unsettled by the warlike state of things, and could scarcely talk of the prospect of the arrival of settlers at Port Nicholson; saying that he should probably be killed in the approaching fight.

The Rev. W. Williams, of the Bay of Islands, is on his way here to form an establishment on the main. His horses have arrived, and some people hope that his presence may prevent the encounter amongst the natives; but from what I have seen of these people, and know of their revengeful feelings, I have no idea that anything but a great slaughter on one side or the other will satisfy them. For some years it will be necessary for any settlers in Cook's Strait to be in numbers sufficient to protect themselves, and to form a militia, to avoid the outrages to which the caprice or anger of a few chiefs might subject them.

Wednesday, 13th November.--The unusual calm continued and kept us here. Warepori had an interview with Raupero. The two chiefs met in their canoes near Kapiti. The former inquired whether the Ngatirocowas, from a visit to whom, at Otaki, Raupero was returning, intended to pursue the war; and Raupero, with his usual cunning, replied that he had dissuaded them from so doing--that he was tired of wars, meant to go to live at Wairao, out of the way of them, and made Warepori a present of Kapiti. Considering how many times he has sold all his interests in the island, the gift cannot be considered worth much.

Saturday, 16th November.--Notwithstanding my anxiety to leave this place, no chance has offered of effecting my object. We have repeatedly hove short, and made ready for sea, and as often have been disappointed by the wind failing.

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THE KNOWSLEY RIVER.

Not to be entirely idle, I got off from Wakenai three chiefs of Wanganui, or Knowsley River, who are here with about 200 men, to assist the Ngatiawas, with whom they are in alliance, in their war. With these chiefs I negotiated the purchase of all their district from Manawatu to Patea. It is impossible to complete the bargain except on the spot with the numerous tribe, living there; but, having obtained the signatures of two chiefs to a deed, a third, who is supposed to be the most influential man in the tribe, was deputed to accompany me, and to receive the remainder of the payment amongst their people.

The Knowsley River has been repeatedly spoken of in England as a place likely to become of great importance from its being a river harbour communicating with the fertile plains in the interior of the North Island; and, although pressed for time, I resolved to devote a day or two to ascertain its value, and that of the neighbouring country. In the evidence taken by the Association in 1837, the river is stated to have a dangerous entrance, and its navigation prevented by a fall near its mouth. The natives are also stated to be very savage and to speak an almost different language from that of the other tribes. From the most correct information I can obtain, I have ascertained that canoes have been ten days' voyage up the river without its being necessary to track them over any falls (which is, however, an uncertain mode of calculation of distances); that it runs from the volcanic mountain Ruapeha, passing another high mountain, Tongarido, which is proved by the vast quantity of pumice-stone which comes down its course, and being washed into the Strait, is found on every beach; and that its source is separated by this range of mountains, and at no great distance from the Waikato river and district. No vessel has ever been known to enter it.

Monday, 18th November.--At length a light southerly wind enabled us to leave Kapiti; and running along the coast to the northward, we passed successively Waimea, which is the next district to Waikanai, the stream at which place is nearly dried up, its main branch having diverted itself into the Waikanai river, which, however, scarcely

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admits a boat at high water. Otaki, and Manawatu, are both rivers also incapable of access to any craft.

Tuesday, 19th November.--At daylight this morning we found ourselves considerably to the northward of Wanganui, having stood off shore during the night; but the weather being fine, and a north-east wind blowing off the land, rendering the approach safe, we stood in down the land in search of the river. The natives on board never having seen the land from a ship, or at a greater distance than the edge of the surf in their canoes, continually misled us as to its situation, so that it was not till near night that we arrived off its mouth. We stood off again for the night, under easy sail; and on

Wednesday, 20th November, found ourselves abreast of the object of our search. Yesterday, in standing down the coast, we found the water suddenly shoal, at a mile distant from a point of land, to four fathoms. As the ship draws fifteen feet, it was, therefore, advisable to keep an offing. We stood off and on at two miles from the shore, in ten, and sometimes seven fathoms' water; and Mr.Barrett proceeded in a boat to sound at the entrance of the river, whilst we took a view of the neighbouring country from the mast-head. The mouth of the river lies in latitude 40 deg. 7 min., or thereabouts, and is open to the south-west. Its low headlands are about half-a-mile apart; but from the southern point a spit runs out above water, forming a breakwater nearly half way across the distance. The channel is consequently under the northern bank, and a bar, on which at low tide the water breaks, continues across it from the spit. Inside the bar, the river opens, and presents, behind the spit, a considerable space of smooth water, which continues for about two miles, where the course turns to the eastward, and was lost to our view. Mr. Barrett, who is an old sailor, found 2 1/2 fathoms on the bar as he went in, and three, four, and five fathoms inside. He went up the river about a mile, and landed the chief I had brought with me amongst some of his people, who had come from Hirpah, which is situated six miles higher up the banks. The natives, who have never been on board a ship, were much alarmed at

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our appearance, conceiving that we might be bound on a similar visit to that of the Alligator in 1835.

Indications of a gale appearing, our pilot returned to the ship immediately, and only just in time. On re-crossing the bar, he found only two fathoms' water, which was beginning to break. The tide was then at half-ebb, and had fallen about five feet perpendicular. The soundings on the bar, at high-water, may be taken at near three fathoms. Some appearances of occasional heavy freshes presented themselves near the heads, in drift timber, &c. By the time our pilot arrived on board, it was blowing hard, and in less than ten minutes afterwards, we were glad to beat off the coast, under close-reefed topsails, in a fiery north-west gale.

The principal object of my visit was thus frustrated for the moment; and time will not allow me to return to Wanganui, which I consider a place of great importance. It is certainly capable of admitting good-sized craft with the flood-tide, and may hereafter, by means of steam-boats, become the outlet of the produce of an immense district, if not of the whole extent of the Northern Island. The inhabitants are not less civilized than the other tribes in these parts; and lately having received native missionaries amongst them from Kafia and Waikato, are decidedly more advanced that their neighbours to the southward, the Ngatirocowas, who refuse all missionary interference. The dialect of Wanganui is peculiar, and is the subject of merriment to the Ngatiawas, as that of a Yorkshireman is to a Londoner. Yesterday, in our search for Wanganui, we passed off the mouths of two other small rivers to the northward of it, viz., Wastatera and Patea, both of which will admit boats at high-water. Thus, I am able to speak, from my own knowledge, of this coast to within thirty miles of Waimate, where the Alligator landed a party of marines for the rescue of Mrs. Guard, in 1835. Part of the journal of an officer on board that ship, quoted in the Present State of New Zealand, furnishes a description of the remainder of the coast from Waimate, round Cape Egmont, to the Sugar Loaf Islands, our present destination. There is no appearance of the horse-shoe-shaped bay laid

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MOUNT EGMONT.

down in some of the charts as Taranake Bay; and from the information of Mr. Barrett and the natives, who walked the whole length of this coast in their migration from Taranake, the land forms a semicircular bay from Otaki, which is fifteen miles to the northward of Kapiti, to Cape Egmont. This lee-shore, from the prevalence and violence of the south-west and north-west winds, is dangerous ground. A vessel embayed during one of these gales would have difficulty to get off the coast; and as the sea breaks at two miles off the shore, anchoring is nearly out of the question. The soundings are very shallow along the whole coast. At nearly twenty miles at sea, we found only seventeen fathoms off Cape Egmont. Several small vessels have been driven ashore in the bight and knocked to pieces.

The land near the sea continues low from Waikanai to Wanganui; after which a cliff, which gradually heightens as you approach the cape, but on the top of which the land is perfectly level over an immense district, bounds the beach. The face of this flat land presents a pleasing prospect after the long-continued sight of the mountains in all the other parts of the Strait; and the soil, according to all counts, is fertile.

Thursday, November 21st.--In twenty-four hours the gale abated, and we found ourselves in the middle of the Strait, with a prospect of a long passage round Cape Egmont. Vessels are sometimes weeks before they can leave the Strait during north-west winds.

Friday, November 22d.--This morning found us within sight of and at a distance of fifty miles from Mount Egmont; which presented a grand and venerable appearance.

The perpetual snow commences at about two-thirds up the mountain, which would give its height 9,000 feet. It is called in the charts 14,000 feet high; but a trigonometrical measurement by a German professor, who was here in a Russian man-of-war, makes it 7,000 feet. No appearance of volcanic action in the mountain has of late been noticed, or is remembered by the natives. Tongarido also came visible in the course of the day. It seems at 70 miles' distance equal in size and height to Mount Egmont.

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POPULATION OF COOK'S STRAITS.

native tradition describes these mountains and Ruapeho as once close together, but that a quarrel taking place amongst them, the two sisters, Tongarido and Ruapeho, in a pet, removed themselves to a distance.

Having now traversed Cook's Strait in every direction, and seen its coasts from Cape Farewell to Cape Campbell on one side, and from Cape Palliser to Cape Egmont on the other, and visited its principal harbours, besides learning the qualities of all, I shall conclude my observations on this part of the country with a table of population in the two provinces, which I have drawn out from evidence collected on the spot, and upon which I can rely. It is the only attempt at an estimate of the population of these parts which I know of.

Going about as I have done, amongst the different tribes on equally friendly terms with all, and exciting no jealousies by exclusive communication with any particular one, I have been able to learn more, and more exactly, than those who have resided under the protection of one tribe.

I have refrained hitherto, however, from stating any result of my observations on the customs and habits of the inhabitants of these islands, from a feeling that conclusions on the subject arrived at hastily, and with the few opportunities our party, ignorant of the language, has had in our hurried visits to different ports, in a ship always under sailing-orders, must be liable to error from a deficiency of premises; particularly when we consider that the native informants vary from each other and in their own statements, and that it is only by dint of reiterated comparisons that the truth on any subject can be gained from them. Moreover, any information I could now give on the meagre subject of the mode of life of these people, would add but little to the science of ethnography, and would be but a mere repetition of the substance of many published works, which has been admirably collated in the volume of Entertaining Knowledge, The New Zealanders, and in the Present State of New Zealand, published by the Association in 1837.

I promise myself, however, to give you the amount of my observation in greater maturity at a future time, than I could now do, on the peculiarities of these people.

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POPULATION TABLE.

Table of the Population of the Provinces of North and South Durham, and of the Islands of Kapiti and Mana, Cook's Strait.

Name of Place of Residence. Collective Name of Tribe. Special Name of Tribe. Number.
Wanganni, near Cape Farewell Ngatiawa Ngatiawa Proper 90
Taitap, Blind Bay Ngatiawa
Kafia
Pukatap
Ngatitama
Ngatiawa Proper
Ngatirarua
250
Rangitoto, D'Urville's Island Kafia Kafia 50
Admiralty Isles, and Oyerri River Kafia Kafia
Rangitani, Slaves
200
Queen Charlotte's Sound and Tory Channel Ngatiawa Manacuri
Pukatap
Ngatimatiu
Tanawa
1200
Cloudy Bay Kafia Ngatirarua 250
Port Nicholson Ngatiawa
Ateranui
Taranake
Ngamutu
Amoa
Ngatitama
Ngatitawidicura
Ateranui
Taranake
500
Ohario, Cape Terrawitte Ngatiawa Ngatitama 40
Makarotawidi Ngatiawa Ngatitama 50
Titai Ngatiawa Ngatitama 60
Pererua Kafia Kafia 60
Waikanai Ngatiawa Ngatiawa Proper 400
Otaki Ngatirocowa Ngatirocowa 1000
Manawetu Kafia Panahida 100
Wanganui, or Knowsley River. Wanganui Wanganui 1500
Waitotera None None  
Patea Ngatiawa Waitotera 200
Waimate Rangitoapeki Ateranui Ateranui 209
Otamatua Taranake Taranake 150
Moturoa Island & Taranake Ngatiawa Ngamuta 50
Maunkuri River None None  
Mokou Ngatiawa Ngatiawa Proper 150
      6500
Kapiti Kafia Kafia
Ngatirarua
120
Mana Kafia Kafia 30
    Total 6650

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SUGAR LOAF ISLANDS.

Sugar Loaf Islands, Wednesday, November 27th.

At length, after a tedious voyage of nine days from Kapiti, being only 130 miles off, having experienced much bad weather and three gales of wind, we anchored this morning in nine fathoms water, at two miles from the land to the north of these islands. The gale had left a heavy swell, which caused a great surf on the beach so as to prevent a boat landing. Mr. Barrett, with Taurau and Ewarre, whom you will recollect I brought from Port Nicholson, went near the land in a boat, and succeeded, after some time, in making themselves recognised by the inhabitants. Two chiefs swam off to the boat through the surf and came on board the ship. This specimen of communication with the shore will give a bad opinion of the place as regards its roadstead, and I can say nothing to remove or palliate it. It is completely open to the north-west, and never accessible but after a long calm or south-east wind, both of which are rare events. Ships, moreover, would have difficulty in going to sea if a gale came on suddenly.

No talking on the part of the natives took place in the boat; surprise at seeing their old friends, and the nationa lcustom, preventing any demonstrations of feeling; but after coming on board, an affecting scene took place, in which one of the new comers described the wretched existence that he and his companions had led since the mass of their tribes had migrated to Cook's Strait, six years ago. Continual war had been carried on against them by the Waikato people; and nothing but the refuge afforded by the Sugar-loaf peaks had preserved the small remnant, not amounting to more than fifty, who still held their ground, with occasional assistance from their Southern neighbours. They expressed great anxiety respecting their future fate; hoped their enemies, being now Missionaries, would no longer persecute them; but declared their determination not to remove from, but to die on the land of their grandsires.

Mr. Williams had been here a fortnight ago, and had left at Otamatua, where the original Taranake people live, many missionary books and some instructors.

The country to the south of Mount Egmont, after

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COUNTRY SOUTH OF MOUNT EGMONT.

doubling the Cape, appears extremely valuable: an immense table-land extends as far as the eye can reach, no part of which is free from vegetation. The finest flax grows nearly to the sea-side. Immediately at the base of the mountains towards the sea, many volcanic appearances present themselves in the confused assemblage of hillocks, the nature of the rocks, and the black sand surrounding them. The mountain commences at about twenty miles from the coast, and slopes down gradually to the north for at least forty miles. Within this slope and the sea is a fertile undulating plain, covered with small timber and abundant vegetation. It is belted by a narrow ridge of sand-hummocks; and in its fertility and general appearance strongly reminds one of French Flanders, to which its dangerous and inconvenient coast further assimilates it.

Thursday, November 28th.--It being impossible to collect the chiefs, whose consent is requisite for the transfer of the land from Manawetu to Mokou, under at least a week, and having been detained so much by baffling winds, I determined not to remain longer here, but to leave Mr.Barrett, who would be an efficient agent in the transaction, from his intimate knowledge of the territory I am desirous to acquire, from his personal influence with the chiefs, and from the acknowledged claims he has by his marriage and the birth of his children on the land. He accordingly landed this morning with his wife and children, with instructions to assemble the numerous chiefs resident on a coast-line of 150 miles, in a month's time, when I am to return to make the payment for the different districts, and receive the written assent of the chiefs to the sale.

Notwithstanding the qualities of the soil of the Taranake district, which are allowed to be superior to those of any land in these islands, such is the difficulty of communicating with it by water, that I do not see any probability of settlers being placed there for some years. Looking, however, to the future, and to the interests of the Company's future representatives, and hoping that by the unconquerable energies of British inhabitants, this country will shortly assume a different aspect as regards its interior communications,--sanguinely hoping even to see commenced such an under-

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VOYAGE TO HOKIANGA.

taking as the construction of a road from this district and that of all the valuable land to the northward, to Port Nicholson, a distance not more than 156 miles, in which, however, many obstacles in the mountain ranges occur,---I cannot but be anxious to secure this fine territory. The many conflicting interests and division of the occupants, whose numbers and places of residence you will find in the table, would render it almost impossible for any individual, without shipping and large means at his disposal, to acquire this portion of country; and the agent I have employed is, from his connexion with the natives, perhaps the only man who could negotiate the bargain. I have every hope that on my return here the completion of it will be effected.

Dr. Dieffenbach, the naturalist, also remained on shore here, with the view of ascending Mount Egmont, and of examining the country in the neighbourhood. As it could seldom happen that a man of science should have the opportunity of being put down here, with a family who could protect him, in what has hitherto been considered, with reason, the wildest part of New Zealand; with time to examine the most important district, as regards geology and mineralogy, in these islands, and to be taken off again when he had achieved his object, I strongly recommended him to stay here in preference to proceeding to Kaipara, which has been visited by many naturalists, and presents nothing so worthy of the examination of the learned. We got under weigh so soon as the party had landed, and with a fair wind stood to the northward.

Hokianga, Monday, December 2nd.
Contrary winds, which seemed to pursue us since quitting Kapiti, kept us at sea till to-day. Finding, on looking over Mr. Macdonnell's memoranda, that all the chief parties to the treaty respecting the land at Kaipara reside in the Hokianga or the Bay of Islands, and that nothing could be done without them in enforcing the claim, I decided on going first to Hokianga. We found the bar by no means so formidable as usually represented, and the pilot-arrangements as described in the books. The least

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VISIT FROM THE BARON DE THIERRY.

water we found on the bar at high water was 3 3/4 fathoms, and there was no break when we crossed it. It must, however, not be disguised that vessels have been detained at the heads for a fortnight, without being able to pass the bar outwards, and that many are obliged to keep to sea several days before they can enter the river. The largest vessel ever in here drew nineteen feet water. We ran up the river, which is easy of navigation, twenty-six miles, and anchored in the usual place for ships that come here to take in timber. On our way up we passed Herd's Point, which is a small tract of land on the left bank of the river, and well suited for the site of a town. Behind it is a district of five or six miles, reaching up to a ridge of mountains. Exactly opposite to the Point is the Motukaraka estate and river, belonging to the Company, and having a frontage of many miles to the river Hokianga. Four miles beyond the anchorage is the Hourake estate, which embraces three miles of frontage by five miles in depth, and a valuable plain agricultural district on the top of some gently-sloping hills. At the Hourake is Mr. Macdonnell's establishment, on which a great outlay has been made. It presents a most cheering sight after the whaling-stations to the southward. The cowrie spars and logs lie about here in profusion. They are the staple produce of the place, and nothing in the way of timber can exceed their beauty. Many of them are one hundred feet long and thirty inches square, of equal size the whole length. The Wesleyan missionary station at Mungungu has a small establishment, containing some poor farm-buildings and a printing-office. The Missionaries possess but little land here, and, unlike the Church Missionaries, are not anxious to extend their possessions. Mr. White, the late principal of the Wesleyans here, is the largest proprietor of land in the Hokianga, and perhaps in New Zealand. Since arriving here last year he has been constantly purchasing land here, at Kaipara, and at Manuka.

Friday, 3rd December.--Whilst visiting parts of the river to-day, the Baron de Thierry called on board. His claims hereabout are very extensive, and from all I can collect, not without foundation. He commissioned Mr.

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FOREIGN SETTLERS.

Kendall, of the Church Mission, some years ago, to purchase land for him here, and gave him 700l. for the purpose of paying for it. Mr. Kendall acquired an immense district between this place and the Bay of Islands, but only paid the natives thirty-six axes for it. The deeds, however, were regularly executed by the chiefs, who were at that time satisfied with the consideration received. As land, however, became of value, they have been induced to resell portions to other Europeans, and now say that the axes were only a present made to them by Mr. Kendall. The Baron is consequently in dispute with all the proprietors on this district, and talks of waiting the arrival of a French man-of-war to eject the trespassers.

A French bishop has purchased land, and formed an establishment half-way up the river. He has a few proselytes, who prefer his form of worship to that of the Wesleyans. A Belgian naturalist has also an extensive property near the heads of the river.

Wednesday, 4th December.--Our party dined to-day at the Missionary station. The principal, Mr. Bumby, a liberal-minded, sensible, and legitimate Missionary, receives his countrymen visiting the river with great hospitality. He is desirous to plant Missionaries in various places on the west coast, which the Church Mission have yielded to the Wesleyans, whilst they take the eastern shores of these islands. With this view, Mr. Bumby has lately made an excursion over all his district, with the exception of Taranake and Wangania, and has visited the interior ofthe country at Kafia, where he has left a Missionary establishment. He also visited Port Nicholson just before I was there, and conceived that he had secured the land at Thorndon, till I informed him that the chiefs had disregarded the verbal taboo he had made, and sold the entire place to the Company.

Thursday, December 5th.--Great pains are requisite to ascertain the real proprietors or claimants of land hereabouts. After ascertaining those who formerly claimed and sold Herd's Point, and the parties to the Kaipara treaty, I despatched messengers to-day to the Bay of Islands to bring over some of the Napuhi chiefs. The

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NATIVES OF THE NORTHERN ISLAND.

journey to the Bay of Islands is performed in two days on foot, and a good road might be made across the island here without much trouble. Nearly the whole district, which is very valuable in an agricultural view, is owned by members of the Church Mission, which has a large farming establishment at Waimate, half-way across the island. They own also immense districts on the Thames.

Friday, December 6th.--The contrast between the natives here and those in Cook's Strait is most striking. In person, our friends to the South are far superior as to height and appearance. Unaccustomed to the luxuries introduced here by the European ships and the traders of the Bay of Islands, the tribes of the southward eagerly bring the produce of their labour to strangers visiting them, and are satisfied with small profits. The natives here never come to a ship to trade, and will not, without great persuasion and high prices, supply those who send to them for provisions. Independently of this acquired indifference to trade on the part of those who possess anything, there is a great scarcity of all commodities for the table, in consequence of the neglect of cultivation of land by the natives, who acquire larger profits by cutting down and dragging timber, and of white people who own land, having turned away the original possessors from the spots that were used to raise potatoes and corn. No vessel can depend on finding supplies here, except from the white people and at English prices.

The river has been represented as abounding in fish, which is not the case. Our net has not supplied our table, and the natives will not condescend to angle, which they might do near the heads of the river with advantage.

The land throughout the river is of a sandy clay, which, when not covered with trees, presents a dry and barren appearance; and the banks are a collection of mud and mangroves, which in most places prevent a landing. The soil is certainly not to be compared with the alluvial land in the valleys in the south; but it is productive beyond any idea that its appearance would lead one to form; and, favoured as it is by a most genial climate, yields abundant crops. The vine flourishes in the worst parts of it. The

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INFERIORITY OF THE NORTHERN TO THE SOUTHERN ISLAND.

cowrie, however, is the principal and most important produce of the hills here; which do not offer a field for British husbandry by any means so inviting as the plains of Taranake, which all the natives agree in calling the garden of New Zealand. The whole country as far as south of Kafia is of the same description as hereabouts. Except for timber, therefore, and for facilities of water-carriage and exportation, I do not think that this part of the country can be compared with the possessions of the Company on the southern part of the island; and, if a communication shall be found between Taranake and Port Nicholson, which is a much finer harbour than any on this coast,--or even if Knowsley River be found available, of which I have sanguine hopes, the Company will have no cause to regret the previous occupation of the land hereabouts by Missionary and other owners.

The want of the small vessel I expected is now severely felt by me. It prevents my examining the Waikato and Kafia harbours, and forestalling the numerous speculators who are arriving every day from New Holland. Should it become advisable at a future time for the Company to possess these harbours, it will be effected at a much larger cost than at the present moment.

Wednesday, December 11th.--Whilst waiting for the chiefs from the Bay of Islands, I have examined the principal portions of this river, and can see no spot at all adapted for the situation of a large town. The shoalness of the water, the numerous mud-flats and banks, and the rapidity of the tide, present everywhere obstacles and inconvenience for shipping; whilst the numerous creeks and mangrove-swamps, intersecting fine districts and breaking the face of the country, offer no less impediments to the settler. The bar at the entrance also must not be forgotten amongst the disadvantages of this river.

Having assembled the chiefs, I went to-day with the three principal ones to take possession of Herd's Point and the Motukaraka property. Not being provided with the deeds of the former purchase, I was obliged to rely on the chiefs for a description of the boundaries, which I went over with them. It has always been supposed that this

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purchase extended over a large district up to the range of hills; but of late the chiefs have sold all but the Point, which is about a mile square, to Mr. White and others. Their right to do so must be decided by the wording of the deed. The point they gave me possession of contains good land, and is a good situation; but its size of course offers no inducement to form a township on it, neither does the opposite land, when examined, present a much more flattering prospect.

Friday, December 13th.--The chiefs arrived from the Bay of Islands to-day, and we wait for a fair wind to cross the bar and proceed to Kaipara. I have purchased of Mrs. Blenkinsopp, the widow of Captain Blenkinsopp, whom I have mentioned as having bought the Wairoa and other Property in Cloudy Bay, all her rights and claims to the same. This completes the Company's title to that part of the Southern Island; and is of importance as the finest strict thereabouts and connected with Kaikora or the Lookers-on, which has been represented as a harbour.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
W. WAKEFIELD.

To John Ward, Esq., Secretary of the
New Zealand Company, &c.


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