1863 - Scherzer, K. Narrative of the Circumnavigation... by the Austrian Frigate, Novara [Ch. XIX] - [Front Matter]

       
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  1863 - Scherzer, K. Narrative of the Circumnavigation... by the Austrian Frigate, Novara [Ch. XIX] - [Front Matter]
 
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[TITLE PAGE]

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NARRATIVE
OF THE
Circumnavigation of the Globe
BY THE AUSTRIAN FRIGATE
NOVARA,

(COMMODORE B. VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,)
Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government,
IN THE YEARS 1857, 1858, & 1859,
UNDER THE IMMEDIATE AUSPICES OF HIS I. AND R. HIGHNESS
THE ARCHDUKE FERDINAND MAXIMILIAN,
COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE AUSTRIAN NAVY.

VOL. III.
LONDON:
SAUNDERS, OTLEY AND CO.,
66, BROOK STREET, HANOVER SQUARE.
1863.
[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.}

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JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.

[CONTENTS]

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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.

SYDNEY.

The politico-economical importance to England of her colonies.--Extraordinary growth of Sydney.--Public buildings.--Expeditions of discovery into the interior of Australia.--Scientific endeavours in Sydney.--MaCleay's Seat at Elizabeth Bay.--Sir Daniel Cooper.--Rickety Dick.--Monument to La Perouse at Botany Bay.--The Botanical Garden.--Journey by rail to Campbelton.--Camden Park.--German emigrants.--Wine cultivation in Australia. Odd Fellows' Lodge at Campbelton.--Appin.--Wulongong.--Mr. Hill.--The Aborigines.--Kangaroo hunting.--Coal mines in the Keira range.--An adventure in the woods.--Return to Sydney.--The Australian club.--Excursion up Hunter River as far as Ash Island.--"Nuggets."--The Novara in the dry dock at Cockatoo Island.--Reformation among the prisoners in the colony.-- Serenade by the Germans in Sydney, in honour of the expedition.--Ball on board the frigate.--Political life in Sydney.--Excursion for craniological purposes to Cook River Bay,and Long Bay.--Intercourse with natives.--Wool growing.--Attempts to introduce the Llama and Alpaca from Bolivia.--The gold-fields of the colony of New South Wales.--Is Australia the youngest or oldest part of the globe?--The convict-system and transportation as a punishment.--Departure from Sydney.--Barrier Island.--Arrival at Huraka Gulf, New Zealand............1

CHAPTER XIX.

AUCKLAND.

Request preferred by the Colonial Government to have the coal-fields of the Drury District thoroughly examined by the geologists of the Novara.--Geographical remarks concerning New Zealand.--Auckland.--The Aborigines or Maori.--A Mass meeting.--Maori legends.--Manners and customs of the Aborigines.--The Meri-Meri.--Most important of the vegetable esculents of

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the Aborigines before the arrival of the Europeans.--Dr. Thomson's anthropological investigations.--Maori proverbs and poetry.--The present war and its origin.--The Maori king.--Decay of the native population and its supposed causes.--Advantages held out by New Zealand to European emigration.--Excursion to the Waiatarua valley.--Maori village of Oraki.--Kauri forests in the Manukau range.--Mr. Smith's farm in Titarangi.--St. John's College.-- Intellectual activity in Auckland.--New Zealand silk.--Excursion to the coalfields of the Drury and Hunua Districts.--New Year's Eve at the Antipodes. --Dr. Hochstetter remains in New Zealand.--The Catholic mission in Auckland.--Two Maories take service as seamen on board the Novara.--Departure. --The results of the explorations of the geologist during his stay at the island.--Crossing the meridian of 180 deg. from West to East.--The same day reckoned twice.--The sight of the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo.--Arrival in the harbour of Papeete..................93

CHAPTER XX.

TAHITI.

State of the island at the close of last century.--The London Missionary Society and its emissaries.--Great mortality among the native population.--Eirst arrival of Catholic Priests in Oceania.--French Protectorate and its. consequences.--The Tahitian Parliament and Tahitian debaters.--William Howe.-- Adam Kulczyeki,--Scientific aims and achievements.--The Catholic mission.-- Pre Catalan and native dances.--Prisoners of war from New Caledonia.-- Point Venus.--Guava-fields.--The fort of Fautaua.--Lake Waiiria.--Popular Fete at Faaa.--Ball given by the Governor.--Queen Pomare.--Geographical notes on Tahiti and Eimeo.--Climate.--Vegetation.--The Kawa root, and the intoxicating drink produced from it.--Great expense of the French Stations in Oceania.---Projects of reform.--Results of English and French colonization. --Two Convicts.--Departure.--The Whaler Emily Morgan.--Attempt to fix the zero point of magnetic declination.--"Colique vegetale."--A victim.-- Pitcairn Island.--A fire-side tale of the tropical world.--An accident without ill results.--Humboldt's Current.--Arrival at Valparaiso...............199

CHAPTER XXI.

VALPARAISO.

Importance of Chile for German emigration.--First impressions of Valparaiso.-- Stroll through the city.--Commercial relations of Chile with Australia and California.--Quebrada de Juan Gomez.--The roadstead.--The Old Quarter and Port Rosario.--Cerro Algre.--Fire Companies.--Abadie's nursery-garden. --Campo Santo.--The German community and its club.--A compatriot festi-

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val in honour of the Novara.--Journey to Santiago de Chile.--University.-- National Museum.--Observatory.--Industrial and agricultural schools.--Professor Don Ignacio Domey Ko.--Audience of the President of the Republic.-- Don Manuel Montt and his political opponents.--Family life in Santiago.-- Excursion trip on the southern railroad.--Maipu Bridge.--Melepilla.--The Hacienda of Las Esmeraldas.--Chilean hospitality.--Return to Valparaiso.-- Quillota.--The German colony in Valdivia.--Colonization in the Straits of Magellan.--Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in honour of the Novara.-- Extraordinary voyage of a damaged ship---Departure of the Novara.--Voyage round Cape Horn.--The Falkland Islands.--The French corvette Eurydice.-- The Sargasso sea.--Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean.-- Hopes disappointed and curiosity excited.--Passage through the Azores, channel.--A vexatious calm.........280

CHAPTER XXII.

AN OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM VALPARAISO TO GIBRALTAR, VIA THE ISTHMUS

OF PANAMA.

Departure from Valparaiso.--Coquimbo.--Caldera.--Cobija.--Iquique.--Manufacture of saltpetre.--Arica.--Port d'Islay.--Medanos, or wandering sandhills.--Chola.--Pisco.--The Chincha or Guano Islands.--Remarks respecting the Guano or Huanu beds.--Callao.--Lima.--Carrion crows, the principal street-scavengers.--Churches and Monasteries.--Hospitals.--Charitable institutions.--Medical College.--National Library.--Padre Vigil.--National Museum.--The Central Normal School.--Great lack of intellectual energy.--Ruins of Cajamarquilla.--Chorillos.--Temple to the Sun at Pachacamac.--River Rimac.--Amancaes.--The new prison.--Bull-fights.--State of society in Peru.--The Coca plant, and the latest scientific examination respecting its peculiar properties.--The China, or Peruvian-bark tree.--Departure from Lima.--Lambajeque.--Indian village of Iting. --Paita.--Island of La Plata.-- Taboga Island.--Impression made by the intelligence of Humboldt's death.-- Panama.--"Opposition" Line.--Immense traffic.--The Railway across the Isthmus.--Aspinwall--Carthagena.--St. Thomas.--Voyage to Europe on board the R. M. S. Magdalena.--Falmouth.--Southampton.--London.--Rejoin the Novara at sea.--Arrival at Gibraltar..........337

CHAPTER XXIII.

FROM GIBRALTAR TO TRIESTE.

First circumstantial details of the War of 1859.--Alterations in Gibraltar since our previous visit.--Science and Warfare.--Voyage through the Mediterranean.-- Messina.--The Novara taken in tow by the War-steamer Lucia.--Gravosa.--

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Ragusa.--Arrival of H. I. H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian at Gravosa. --Presentation of the Staff.--Banquet on board the screw-corvette Dandolo.-- Pola.--Roman Amphitheatre.--Porta Aurea.--Triumphal return to Trieste.-- Retrospect of the achievements and general scientific results of the Expedition.--Concluding Remarks..............449

APPENDIX--Vol. ii...........461

APPENDIX--Vol. iii...........494

INDEX...............519

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. III.

PAGE

1. Denizens of an Australian Forest......... 1

2. Maori . ............ 93

3. Native Fete to the Governor.......... 199

4. The Lasso............. 280

5. Station on the Panama Railway . . . . . . . . . 337

6. The Austrian Eagle........... 449


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