CHAPTER III
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CHAPTER III
THE FLIGHT TO MATATA
October 8th, 1863.--A fine morning and having made all ready the night before we determined to start. Old George had kept his promise to come with the canoe to take us down the lake, but his friend Joseph (a Maori Teacher) had not come.
A little after ten o'clock, after giving up the charge of the Station to Ruingarangi, the principal widow of Te Heuheu, and, after having a long tangi (cry) with her and old Mary, we got on board the canoe. Our party consisted of old George, who was our captain, two Maori boys, two Maori girls, Rora, a widow of Te Heuheu, Mrs. Grace, our Governess, our six youngest children, Mrs. Grace's brother and myself; sixteen in all, with provisions for a fortnight for the European part of our company, three tents, bedding and all that remained that was valuable of our wardrobes. I had made a sledge for our baggage; this we had also on board.
We cast many a lingering look on the Station before we lost sight of it. Everything looked peaceful, quiet and beautiful, and yet war was the indirect cause of our leaving.
In order that the Natives might feel assured that we really wished to return, we had continued the work at the fences and garden, sowing grass seed, etc. etc., up to the day before leaving, and we thought, as we gazed, that the Station had never looked so well before.
The Lake was as smooth as glass; we crossed to Waimarino (at the S.E. corner) which is old George's village and also Joseph's. In crossing we found the canoe to be too small for so large a party and purposed changing it here.
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We reached this place at 1 p.m. While taking our dinner Joseph made his appearance. There had been some crying and speechifying, with a good many reflections upon Joseph, who now began to make some lame excuses for not having joined his friend George and helped him to paddle us down the Lake. I replied to him in a few words which shamed him so much that he disappeared. Finding that we could not change our canoe as we had hoped, we were obliged to go on in it, which we did after making it lighter by sending some of our party by land to Motutere. As we were preparing to leave Joseph came very quietly on board, paddle in hand.
We started, and when we had got half-way to Motutere, a breeze sprang up, which, being contrary, caused us hard work, when Joseph's paddle was of good service.
It was after sunset when we reached Motutere. The tents were soon up--for the little ones were cold and cross. Whilst the tents were being pitched tea was preparing.
After our evening meal we had prayers with the Maoris round the fire outside the tents. Thus ended our first day's travel. During the night the little ones found the beds so hard that they could not rest. Being nearly dark when the tents were pitched we had not gathered sufficient fern for the beds.
9th (2nd day).--A wet morning with wind and considerable swell on the Lake--no chance of starting. Had early service with the Maoris and after breakfast assembled for school, Mrs. Grace taking the women. The day continued wet, and the remainder of it was spent as may be imagined with so many little ones huddled up together in small tents. There are only a few men in this place, most of them having gone to the war. I am sorry to find that a bad feeling exists between the remnant and their friends a little lower down the Lake, who have lately joined the Queen's party. This village of Motutere was formerly the principal centre of the Ngati Te Rangiita, which comprises about two-thirds of the Taupo people. They are now greatly scattered, and their fine large Church is in a state of ruin.
10th (3rd day).--Strong westerly wind with a heavy sea on the beach. I had sent Hoani (a faithful Native
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Teacher who has been with us ever since he joined me, when we were preparing to come to Taupo, and who has borne great toil and labour for the Gospel's sake) and his wife with part of their family to this, their village, a fortnight ago, that they might plant potatoes for themselves and be in readiness to proceed with us to the Coast. I found him very downcast, and very little food had been planted. After prayers and breakfast old George and Joseph took a very affectionate leave of us and returned. I then assembled as many as could muster spades, that they might plant potatoes for their Teacher. Some came reluctantly, but in all we numbered eight with spades, besides women. Food was scarce, so to encourage them we gave them a pot of boiled flour and sugar out of our little stock for the road. By working with them we had a good patch of potatoes planted by night.
During the afternoon the tents had been re-pitched and the best preparations possible made for Sunday. In the morning I had sent off to the next village for the people to assemble for the coming Sunday. A number have arrived and amongst them, Rawiri, our Native Schoolmaster, who has promised to accompany us to the Coast.
We have just ended the week by holding our Saturday evening prayer-meeting, for special prayer on account of the war. Both Kingites and Queenites were present, and all agreed to pray for peace. May God answer our unworthy petitions.
11th, Sunday (4th day).--A fine morning. I had the usual Sunday services, viz., early morning prayers and at 9 a.m. School, morning service and sermon; afternoon, Service (a baptism) and sermon; in the evening the class for the Collect, Epistle and Gospel. The people were very attentive in the morning when I endeavoured to show them that sin is the cause of all our troubles.
The night was windy and cold and we had much trouble in keeping the tents up.
12th, Monday (5th day).--Westerly wind continues; no chance of starting. After school assembled the men to go and work for Hoani; was happy to find them more willing than on Saturday. Including my own two boys there were 9 volunteers, besides four or five onlookers. By
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sunset a large patch of kumara was planted. This is as it ought to be. Native Teachers are really an ill-used set of men. Our Society does nothing for them, whilst their own people have hitherto done little or nothing, and yet they are expected to give their time to their work as teachers! At school this morning I explained to them the way in which the Levites were supported, and I think many of them saw, that, unless they did something for their teachers, their work, sooner or later, must cease.
Rawiri has just been with me to say that Hene (one of our girls) is not to go on with us as her friends object on account of the great scarcity of food and the fever that is now so bad at Tarawera and Matata. All this is mere excuse; Rawiri himself did not wish her to go. A fortnight since I allowed him to come to this side of the Lake in order to plant food and to be in readiness to join us. Only a few days ago he sent to enquire when we would start. I now saw, however, that the keeping of the girl indicated that he himself did not intend to go. I put the question to him and found that he hesitated.
13th, Tuesday (6th day).--Morning very wet, but no wind. After prayers at breakfast it looked more promising; we immediately began to pack up for starting; but, when all was ready, we found that our other girl "Ripeka" was missing; her friends kept her; we remonstrated, but to no purpose. After considerable delay we got into the canoe when I called out to Rawiri for a final answer. He said he would tell me when he got down to his village. We sailed off and in a short time landed, when, as I expected, Rawiri refused to come. A sad conclusion after four years' instruction, during which time both he and his wife had been taken care of in sickness and in health and had wanted for nothing. Only a short time ago we nursed him through a very dangerous illness. He now leaves us in our hour of need, and his example is no doubt the cause of the two girls not accompanying us. However, Hoani has remained faithful, and Rora, Te Heuheu's widow; moreover, Rawiri's wife presented us with a small kit of potatoes. Our difficulties now commenced. The two boys had to go inland with the horse and ox while I had only Hoani to help me with the canoe, which was heavy and leaky. We
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paddled as hard as possible for three hours, my own two little boys doing their best, when a very unpleasant swell arose which made the ladies ill and the two youngest children sick. We took in considerable quantities of water, so much that Rora was kept constantly baling. There was a large hole in the stern of the canoe just above the water mark, which, when the lake was smooth, was not so troublesome, but now that the swell was considerable the water gained rapidly upon us. We were in some difficulty when it occurred to me to try to stop it with one of the tents. I bundled one up, laid it carefully over the hole, and sat upon it; by this means and constant baling we kept the water from gaining upon us. We paddled till about 4 p.m. when we were all tired and hungry. We attempted to land but could not for the swell, so after distributing a little bread to each, we paddled on. Little Lily, nothing daunted, now began to paddle too.
In about an hour's time a slight breeze sprang up when we hoisted our sail, which helped us greatly. Our danger was in case the wind should increase, for, if it did, we could not hope that our heavy, leaky canoe would weather it; for, at this time, we were obliged to keep about a mile and a half from shore; but a gracious Providence watched over us. The breeze continued steady, and the waves were not worse than the swell we had had a little before.
After sunset we reached the Waikato River where it leaves the Lake, and felt thankful for our safety and the good day's work we had done. On trying to rise from the cramped position in which I had been when sitting upon the tent, I found myself so stiff that it was some time before I could stand upright.
We landed, but found no Natives, and being all hungry and tired, we took possession of a Maori house instead of pitching our tents. Shortly after landing, while we were getting our things into a safe place, the boys came up with the horses and ox, but unfortunately they had let the rope slip from the ring in the nose of the ox. It was now nearly dark, and, unless we succeeded in getting the animal fast, there was no doubt but that in the night he would make for home. After considerable labour we got him. Had we not succeeded we could not possibly have proceeded.
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While this business with the ox was going on the ladies and children were pulling fern for our beds; this done, we regaled ourselves with some tea and potatoes and a little bread; after which we united at evening prayer in thanking God for the mercies of the day. We then, with our tents, made three compartments of the house and retired to rest, and slept soundly till morning.
14th, Wednesday (7th day).---A fine morning. We found three Maoris on the opposite side of the river who were nearly famished for food, and who told us that a fighting party from Ahikereru had passed through on Monday last for Waikato.
After breakfast we dropped down the river to Otumouheke, where we leave the canoe. Here we landed, and, having carried all our things to the plains above, we began to arrange for the first stage of our inland travelling, which occupied us till mid-day.
The sledge took all our baggage comfortably, but, owing to the quantity of potatoes we were obliged to take for the Maoris, there was considerably more than the ox could draw; we therefore loaded one of the ponies, besides which we all took a load.
I placed Mrs. Grace and one of the babies on the horse. The governess was put on the other pony. My brother-in-law took one of the twin babies on his back. Lily walked, taking a small kit of kumara, and Sarah Jane, who is too young to walk very far and not able to ride by herself, was placed near Rora who was to help her when she could. Rora's load consisted of all our cooking utensils, and, on top of this, Jeannie was perched.
We then started in the following order: The sledge was given into Hoani's charge with his son Enoka. I led Mrs. Grace's horse, one of my elder boys led the pony that carried the Governess, and Raimona led the pony which was loaded with potatoes. We all went on comfortably with the exception of the ox--the sledge was heavy and the ox famished.
We went on for about three miles and then halted for dinner, when two of us went back to bring up the sledge. On my return I was just in time to save a number of our things from getting burnt. The fire had been carelessly
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lighted, and, there being a good breeze and a great quantity of thick dry scrub, it caught fire and the ladies and children were unable to collect the things which lay scattered all about. Had we been a few minutes later most of our baggage, tents and saddles, etc., must have been burned. We lost nothing of consequence.
We started again at 5 p.m. and went on until we reached a place where there is plenty of firewood and water. We should have preferred going about 3 miles further to a place called Nihoroa, where we again strike the Waikato, but the sledge was behind and we could not have got there by dark, besides which we require a little time this evening to make some bread, as all we started with is finished. Our evening has been a busy one--tents to pitch, beds to find, horses and ox to tether and attend to, changing their places frequently. While I am writing this the ladies and some of the Maoris are baking cakes in rather an ingenious Native way.
We have just had evening prayers, and I trust all of us feel thankful for such a good day's travelling. It is astonishing how well the little folks walk, although their shoes are in a shocking state. They are now enjoying a sound sleep.
15th (8th day).--Heavy rain and wind--great difficulty in keeping the tents up, although we have done all we can to strengthen them. About 10 a.m. sent on the sledge with Hoani and Raimona to Nihoroa. They have just returned and bring the intelligence that the canoe we expected to find there was taken down the river two days ago by the party we met on the road. This is sad news, as it will cause us a day or two's labour to go down and bring one up. We cannot use the sledge, as the country becomes very broken, besides which we must cross the river. There being little or no food here for the horses, and fearing our tents might blow over, in the evening at 5 p.m. we started for Nihoroa, which we reached by dark all wet through. Pitching being out of the question we took possession of a house, and the Natives of another, and, after a time, were all as comfortable as circumstances would permit.
16th (9th day).--Fine morning. Scarcely any food left. Hoani and the two boys started at sunrise to walk to Ohaki
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without any breakfast in order to bring up a canoe. The distance is about 14 miles. The day being fine, and there being a warm water stream here, the ladies made it a washing day. In the afternoon they baked the last of the flour (except a very little) into cakes. After dinner I was to explore a river that near this place falls into the Waikato. I had been told that it would be a better way into Taupo than the Waikato. I found its course so very winding that it would take 2 or 3 days to get a distance of 12 or 15 miles. The boys have just returned. They have brought up a canoe but, it becoming dark, they have left it a little way down the river till morning. They report that the Natives of Ohaki have nothing to eat. They gave them a small kit of food which was all they possessed.
17th, Saturday (10th day).--Rose early. While breakfast was preparing the Maoris went for the canoe. While having the meal the horses, which had been brought up to be in readiness for crossing, took off. We went in every direction looking for them. I could not have walked less than 10 miles, but all to no purpose. It was half-past ten before we found them. They had gone down into a gorge close to the river, about 1/2 a mile from the place where we had breakfast. The canoe was a small one, and, by the time we got the horses and ox, and the party that was to go inland had crossed the river, it was noon. Mrs. Grace and the Governess, the youngest children and two Natives, together with the sledge and most of the baggage were put on board the canoe. It was exceedingly heavily laden and quite unsafe, but Hoani is a careful man and he took them down safely. I went inland with the remainder of the party. We reached Ohaki a little before dark, and were glad to find plenty of food for the horses. The Natives, however, at this place, ten in number, and who are planting at a short distance, are literally starving. They are subsisting on the root of the Raupo (bulrush) which grows on the banks of the river. They could give us nothing and we now have scarcely anything left. By the time we had the tents pitched it was quite dark, and the little ones were tired and hungry. We have portioned out our food for to-morrow between ourselves and our Natives; all that is left is a very little flour, and arrowroot for the two little
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ones, with a small quantity of tea and sugar. The Maoris are so grieved that they have no food to give us that none of them has had the heart to come and see us, except one woman, Raiha (Eliza), who has never ceased her lamentation at our want of food, and her inability to give us any. God will provide. He hears our prayers.
18th, Sunday (11th day).--Wet morning. The children obliged to be confined to the tents. After prayers we boiled a little flour and water for breakfast, after which we had morning service. None of the Maoris came over. For dinner we had the remainder of our potatoes with a little ham. After dinner walked over to the Maoris--found 10 of them. They had no food but the Raupo root and were all evidently very hungry. I had service with them and a good deal of conversation. They are evidently greatly disturbed on account of the war, but were very kind. I returned, the woman Raiha coming along with me. I tasted their Raupo root and found it eatable. They sent us a small piece that we might see how we liked it. For tea we had a little more boiled flour and water, after which we had our Sunday evening class for Collect and Gospel as usual. The Natives fasted all day till evening, and then boiled their potatoes with some watercress, and, with a little ham, made a tolerably good meal.
19th, Monday (12th day).--Wet and cloudy morning. We felt the necessity of pushing on. We thought also that the day might turn out fine, in which case we hoped to reach Paeroa, where we had been told we should get potatoes. While we were preparing to start Raiha came running up with a small kit of Raupo root. Of this, with a very little flour and water, we made our breakfast. The Lord reward the poor woman for her kindness! She did her utmost, and was greatly grieved that she could not do more. When we first came to Taupo she and her husband lived with us for about 6 months. Her husband, who has lately left her and taken another wife, is now at the war.
We started as on Saturday, some on the canoe and the rest going inland. A few miles from this place we recross the Waikato, and then leave it and ascend the Waiotapu River. Up to this river the Waikato keeps a North-Easterly course, but now it turns North West and keeps that direc-
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tion until it reaches the sea. The Waiotapu is a small, deep, winding stream with a fall of about 5 feet half-way down its course, where the canoes have to be emptied and dragged up the fall. This river rises in the volcanic hills which form a barrier between Tarawera and the Taupo plains, and its waters are warm and poisonous. It takes two good days to get a light canoe up it owing to its winding course, though the whole distance in a straight line is not more than about 10 or 12 miles, but it bears us over a tract of country that is broken by nine streams, most of which are in deep, precipitous ravines over which it is impossible to take pack-horses, much less a sledge.
We reached the crossing-place and crossed the horses and ox. Here the river is very wide and the current strong, so that the swimming of the horses across is a dangerous matter, and creates a scene of much excitement. We had the narrowest escape of losing one of our ponies. It is newly broken in and naturally was very timid.
The day continued gloomy, with heavy showers, still the Natives thought it would clear off, and proposed to start up the Waiotapu with the baggage. Accordingly, raining as it was, two of the tents and bedding were got on shore, and all the food we could scrape together was given to the men who were to have a night on the river before they reached us at Paeroa. All we now had left was a very little flour, and arrowroot for the two babies. We hoped to reach Paeroa that evening. As soon as the canoe had gone I began to get the horses and ox ready, and had soon got the bedding and tents on the ox and the saddles upon the horses. All was ready, when it came on to rain and blow so violently that to attempt to proceed with such a helpless party seemed madness. They were all cold, wet and hungry, and, for the last two hours, had been huddled together in the manuka scrub. What was to be done? No food, nothing to make beds of, and no Maoris, except the one woman who was so dull that she just sat and looked. Unfortunately the small hatchet which we carry with us had gone with the Maoris in the canoe, to enable them to pitch for the night, so there seemed nothing left for us but to make the best of it. I collected and tied together some sticks, and, in this way, made two posts and a ridge-pole
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for the larger tent, and so got it up; then, for bedding, we broke off the small branches of manuka, shook out the rain and laid them on the floor of the tent. On this we sprinkled a small quantity of grass, opened out the tarpaulins containing our blankets, etc., and, as quickly as possible, got the ladies and our little ones into this tent. The ladies immediately got off their wet clothes and wrapped themselves in their blankets.
We now went through the same process with the smaller tent, and placed it so as to turn the wind a little off the large tent, which I greatly feared would be blown to pieces. This done the boys got into bed. While all this was going on the Maori woman, Rora, had begun to mend up the remains of an old shed. We now helped her with this and soon she, too, had a shelter in which she could just lie down. We were all famishing! With some difficulty we got a fire, and, dividing the flour into two portions, with one of these we made some thin gruel. I was now able to change my clothes for a blanket (for I had been wet through and through for some hours) and, by the time we all had had a little of this thin flour and water, it was nearly dark. I tried to brace up the tents as well as I could, but the ridge piece of the large tent bent so that we could not peg it tightly. After commending ourselves to the protection of our Heavenly Father we lay down. In a short time the wind veered round and came broadside on the tents; it seemed that the large tent, in which the ladies were, must go to pieces. We slept little until morning.
Tuesday (13th day).--The weather appeared to be clearing. Resolved to start as soon as possible. While the last of the flour and water was being boiled we got up the horses, but the ox, which was made secure last night, was gone, and, after losing two hours in hunting for him, we returned without finding the least trace of the animal. After prayers we took the last of our gruel and then packed up our tents and bedding. The horses being all ready I thought I would take a last look for the ox. We galloped a considerable distance but without success. All we could now do was to leave him and get off as soon as possible. The bedding was put on one of the ponies, Mrs. Grace on her horse, and the Governess on the other pony; but, owing to the
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loss of the ox which we intended should take our packs, we were all more or less loaded. My elder boys, also Lily and Jeannie, were walking. We had not got far before Miss Hawkes discovered that she had left her umbrella behind. While the boy who was leading her pony ran back for it, the pony, finding his leader gone, kicked his rider off and became quite unmanageable. The consequence was, after some delay, Miss Hawkes resolved to walk. On we went very nicely for some distance, except that the old boots that Lily wore hurt her so much that we were obliged to throw them away and allow her to go bare-footed. Three of the children were now without shoes. At this time dark clouds overspread the sky and rain began again to fall.
We pushed on and got over three of the streams when the heaviest thunderstorm I remember burst upon us, but God was with us and on we went, though slowly.
I felt anxious to know whether we should find Natives at the village, or not. Little Lily became very tired. I tried her on the horse, but the animal would not submit to carrying her quietly for any distance. At length, half an hour before dark, we arrived at the village. There was only one house habitable, and that was full of men and women who were unwilling to turn out and give it to us. This is the first time I have met with a case of this kind. It was impossible to pitch tents outside; there were some dilapidated houses, but all were wet and filthy. One of these the boys began to prepare for a tent, and, after much talk, the men in the Native house went to sleep in a little cooking house, into which they could just wedge themselves; the house was then given up to Mrs. Grace and the children, in company with the Maori women of the place. As soon as I got the blankets opened out they all took off their clothes and wrapped themselves up in their blankets. The house was warm and dry but full of smoke from the fire and pipes of the Natives. The ladies, fearing that they would be suffocated, I put the fire out and so lessened the amount of smoke and also the temperature. In the meantime the tent had been put up in the Native house, but we could get nothing for a bed but wet fern. There being plenty of broken places for the smoke to get out at, we made a fire. I was now able to take off my wet
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clothes. The next thing to be thought of was food. The Maoris here, as elsewhere, are starving. When it was quite dark one of the women brought in a plate of potatoes and a few boiled fern tops. This, with a little tea, made our evening meal. While thus engaged Hoani and the two boys came. The Waiotapu had become so flooded that they could not get on; they therefore made fast their canoe, and, having landed their things and thrown their tent over them, made the best of their way through swamps and streams to this place. On their arrival here there was neither house nor food for them, so they went on a little further where they fared better.
We closed the day by thanking God for all His mercies. Although we were all very hungry, no one seemed to be much the worse for the hardship that had been encountered.
Wednesday, 21st (14th day).--Weather unsettled. Resolved to go off to Tarawera to seek for supplies. The ladies saluted me with sad lamentations. They had been devoured with fleas and almost poisoned with tobacco smoke and the bad air of the "whare puni." While we were puzzling ourselves how to manage for a breakfast, a poor old Maori woman, from the place where the lads went to sleep last night, sent us two small kits of potatoes, the sight of which cheered our hearts and filled us with thankfulness. I was also able to buy a small pig which was soon killed, and we all made a good breakfast. After getting the other tent pitched and seeing them made as comfortable as possible, at about 10 a.m. I set off for Tarawera with Enoka. As we had only one horse between us and had to ride by turns, it was dark when we reached Tarawera tired and quite wet. Mrs. Spencer let me have what she could; but they, too, were suffering from scarcity of food.
On the road everywhere there were traces of yesterday's thunderstorm.
Thursday, 22nd (15th day).--Lost no time in starting. Put a bag of flour on the horse, and, each of us taking a small load, we travelled all day and reached Paeroa about 4 p.m.; the distance being about 20 miles.
While at Tarawera I learned the real state of the war;
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for the last four months we have had only Native reports. I also got letters from our elder children in Auckland. Yesterday I offered a reward to Hoani and the other boy to go and find the ox. On my return this evening the animal was here. The boys found him standing at the crossing place at the Waikato. In the evening I had service and school with the Natives.
Friday, 23rd (16th day).--Fine morning. The Maoris very kind. They were ashamed of having kept the ladies standing in the rain the evening we arrived. One old woman volunteered to go down with the boys to the canoe, that she might help them up the fall and pole to the landing place, where we hope to meet them to-morrow. Another fine fellow, Tanara, came from a little distance to see us. He very kindly took my Natives to his "rua" of potatoes and told them to take what were in it! He also agreed to accompany us on the road to help us over the rivers, as our own Natives had gone with the canoe. This man has always been very kind to us on our journeys to bring in stores. He once went with us to the Coast. This is the last village in my District travelling North. It was 9 a.m. before all was packed up and we started. There are three very difficult rivers between this and the place where we are to encamp and to meet the boys in the canoe. The first, which is down a deep ravine, we crossed by dismounting and taking the packs off the ox. The second was a more difficult matter; the water was up to the saddle of the tallest horse, so that the ladies had hard work to cross without getting wet. All the adults, one after the other, crossed over on the tallest horse, while our friend, Tanara, up to his neck in the water, carried over all the little ones and the baggage. This crossing occupied about two hours. About a quarter of a mile further on we came to the third river, which is the upper creek of the Waiotapu. The banks at this place are perpendicular. The flood had carried away the landing place for horses at the opposite side, leaving nothing but an upright wall, while the stick which is used by foot passengers was now under water, and was so narrow that no one but a Maori would attempt it. What was to be done? Had Tanara not been with us we must have sat still until the next day, or have gone back,
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recrossing the last river and going to the place where the canoe was.
Tanara, in a most ingenious way, constructed a sort of a hand-rail over the branch of a tree which formed the bridge. The ladies then took off their shoes and stockings and crossed. The horses were then crossed, one at a time with a rope round its neck, Tanara at one side driving the horse in, while I on the other side drew it towards the old landing place now carried away, and, when clear of a sharp bend, I ran round drawing the rope and turning the horse's head up the stream, and so swimming it up till it came to a place where it was possible for it to land. After having crossed all the horses, and also the ox, we sat down and roasted some potatoes for dinner. Our friend Tanara then took a kind leave of us. His services were voluntary. I gave him a present, and he was quite pleased.
We now went a mile and a half further, where we encamped among a number of hot springs, where there is plenty of firewood, to await the arrival of the boys with the canoe and baggage. Though we had only come about 7 miles, yet, by the time we had the tents pitched and beds of fern gathered, it was evening. We had pork, potatoes and flour with us, so that our fare was sufficient. Rora spent the night in baking some bread in the ashes, but we were greatly afraid of eating the flour--it was so grown that the bread was like paste.
Saturday (17th day).--A fine morning. Almost before I was out of my tent one of the lads arrived to say that the canoe was at the landing-place. "Well," I said, "that is good; be quick and take the ox and bring all up on the sledge." He replied that they could not. "Why?" I enquired. "They are too heavy," he answered. "How is that?" I asked, "the ox brought them all before!" "Yes," said the lad, "but they are wet now." The truth then came out; the things had been put on shore when the boys had left the canoe in the thunderstorm, and, after they had gone, the river had overflowed its banks and flooded a large extent of country. The baggage had been washed some distance from where they had left it, and must have been in the water for at least a day! Mrs. Grace wished the packages to be brought up to where we were
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encamped, so that she might open out the things herself. I therefore went off immediately to the canoe, and found, as the boy had told us, that everything had been under water. Hoard, to lighten the weight of the packages, had opened out many of them to dry, and, by this means, had done some mischief. We now lost no time in sending off all that the sledge would take, carrying the remainder on our backs. After breakfast, amidst the lamentations of the ladies, we began to open their wardrobes when they found very considerable damage had been done; many of their nice things being quite spoiled.
As we left Taupo with the prospect of a rather long stay on the Coast, or in Auckland, and as there was a possibility that all we had left in Taupo might be taken possession of, it was deemed advisable to collect the most valuable things to take away with us. The whole day was spent in drying the things. It was a rather singular sight to see, in the desert, the wardrobes of 10 of us--things of all sorts--hanging about in all directions! In the evening we reckoned our loss, including a gold watch, at £40. This is the third loss of the kind, besides our great loss in the fire, we have suffered since we came to Taupo.
25th, Sunday (18th day).--Morning fine; in the afternoon the weather changed and heavy wind and rain came on.
How little progress we have made in a week! We spent a quiet Sabbath ready to depart early next day. Many times did the words of the hymn come into my mind--"Welcome sweet day of rest." We had morning and evening service and our usual school for the Collect and Gospel.
Monday morning (19th day).--Cloudy and rainy with every prospect of bad weather. Concluded not to start, but, if possible, to send on part of the things for a few miles over streams and bad places, so that on the morrow we may be able to travel more quickly. During the day Rora made some bread of the grown wheat; it was very bad but we were thankful for it, although we ate it with fear. We have spent the day mending clothes and writing letters to our people in Taupo.
This afternoon it cleared a little and Hoani and the two boys took on 3 packages and deposited them on the other side of the difficult places, at the foot of a sort of
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barrier range which separates the Taupo country from Tarawera. The boys have just returned quite wet. On Saturday they made themselves a little house, and, as there is plenty of firewood, they are tolerably comfortable.
Tuesday, 27th (20th day).--A miserable wet day--no stirring outside of the tents and the food rapidly diminishing! Towards evening the wind and rain increased. Although we did all we could to secure the tents, the large one appeared likely to be blown over, or to go to pieces. I was up most of the night, and, at 3 in the morning it blew over! Mrs. Grace and the two little ones took refuge in our boys' tent, the boys having to find room in the little hut that the Maori lads had made.
Wednesday, 28th (21st day).--A dull morning; lost no time in repitching the big tent, after which we had prayers and breakfast. To our great joy the clouds began to break and without waiting to be certain we commenced to pack up, and, ere it had done raining, we were on our way to Rotomahana.
The first part of the road took up a great deal of time owing to the three streams which had to be crossed; for at each of these the sledge had to be unpacked and the things lifted over, and this took time. It was about 2 p.m. when we reached, what we call, the 'Barrier' where the Maoris on Monday had left some of the baggage. Notwithstanding the rain, it has taken no harm, being high and dry and covered with a tarpaulin. While crossing the hills it commenced to rain, and continued to do so all the way till we got to Rotomahana, which we reached before dark, all of us very wet, cold and hungry. However, we set to work and got up two tents, putting all the ladies into the largest, which stood very well, as there was no wind. The boys and I occupied another tent, and the Maoris a third; for beds we broke off the small branches of manuka which, with a few sticks, lifted us up a little from the ground that was saturated like a sponge. On the top we had our tarpaulins.
During the night we were moist and warm, and I do not think that any of us took harm. The difficulty of cooking was perhaps greater than that of preparing a lodging, but Rora managed by some means, in spite of the wet
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sticks and heavy rain, to get a good fire, and we all had a warm cup of tea and some of the cakes which she baked yesterday.
Thursday, 29th (22nd day).--After breakfast the weather cleared. When at Tarawera last week I arranged with a Maori to bring a canoe and leave it for us if we had not arrived. We were all disappointed to find no canoe, for, had it been here, we could have dropped down into the Tarawera Lake and by noon have been at Tapahora, where I have a Native house; but now we would have to make a long round to reach Tarawera Lake, and then have to find a canoe as best we could.
We started, and re-ascended the hill which we had to descend to Rotomahana, and then commenced a great sweep round the hills to the head of Tarawera. We had not gone far when we came to a small river which, at ordinary times, is not more than knee deep. Here there was a great delay, but all was well done. Our horse (Pompey) is very high, so that the water left the upper part of the saddle dry, and the ladies, by perching themselves as high as they could, got across without much wetting. When one was over I pulled the horse back with a rope, and in this way they all crossed. This much done the Maoris undressed and carried over the baggage, keeping it above their heads. We had another stream to cross, but this gave us no inconvenience excepting the unloading of the sledge. At length, at 3 p.m., we reached the head of Tarawera, and pitched in a beautiful little bay close to the remains of a fighting pa, that was built in 1853 when the tribes of this lake were fighting about Rotomahana.
I sent off to a village near by to enquire about the man and canoe, and also a supply of food, which I had also arranged for, and was thankful to find that the man, canoe and supplies had all arrived. We had also an unexpected present from Mrs. Spencer consisting of some nice bread and a fine ham, while a bag of wheat was in the canoe. Nothing could have been more acceptable than some good bread, and the ham was a luxury. We enjoyed a good evening meal and were not a little thankful; but our poor horses fared very badly, for there was very little for them to eat. The Native made some shabby excuse for not taking the
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canoe to the head of Rotomahana, but, although he had caused us to lose a whole day, he nevertheless expected and obtained his payment. The day had been fine and we had plenty of dry fern for beds; our whole party spent a most comfortable night.
Friday, 30th (23rd day).--Beautiful morning. The Lake as smooth as glass. All were up before sunrise and the canoe was brought over to us, when I was very disappointed to find it much too small for the whole party and baggage. There was, however, no remedy, so we put in the ladies and little children and all the baggage, and two men who were to man the canoe; the rest of us went over the hills, leading the horses. I was very anxious for the canoe to get off quickly lest a little wind should arise and prevent them sailing.
We who went inland arrived at Tapahora at half-past nine a.m., a little after the canoe. Mrs. Grace informed me that they got on very well until near Tapahora, when a stiff breeze sprang up which placed them in great danger, and that, in spite of Hoani's skill and care, one wave that they took in nearly sank the canoe. I was once swamped in this same place in 1856, when in the same canoe.
We now had morning prayers and breakfast. We felt thankful for the many blessings we had received and for having been allowed to escape so many dangers. The Maoris gave us a kind welcome, though they were in distress. This place has been visited most heavily by the low fever which has been raging in these parts for the last two months. We missed many of our former friends. They told me that, out of their small community, they had buried 45--about one-half of their whole number. I had promised my Maoris before starting that I would not stay long here. After breakfast we borrowed a small, steel mill, and ground the wheat that we had, and by 1 p.m. were again ready to start. As elsewhere, food here was exceedingly scarce. We had no potatoes and they could not let us have any. I wished to buy a little pig that I saw running about, but my old friend, Hakaraia, told me that it belonged to his wife, and that he could not sell it without her permission, so I proposed that, when she returned (he expected her in an hour or two), he should
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follow us to the place where we hoped to encamp. Accordingly, we took leave of the poor people and reached the place for pitching just as it was getting dark. It was a beautiful night. Our first work was to take our weary and hungry horses some distance on, where there was a little food, and there tie them. We had plenty of wood and water at this place, and we were soon busy getting up the tents. By the time tea and prayers were over it was 9 p.m. and we were about to retire for the night when, to our surprise, we heard some one coming. It turned out to be Hakaraia and his wife, Harete. They had followed us with the little pig and a small kit of potatoes. This was most acceptable as we were likely to have Sunday on the road.
Our Natives looked remarkably pleased at the pig. Contrary to Maori custom, we made Hakaraia and his wife our guests, and desired them to go on with us tomorrow and to spend Sunday with us, which they were quite willing to do.
Saturday, 31st (24th day).--Fine morning. All very busy; the lads had the pig to kill, and Rora some cakes to make, so that we could not start very early. We reached the Tarawera river without difficulty. The river here is a considerable one and very rapid, and the crossing of it is always a difficulty; but now, owing to the heavy rains, the current was stronger than usual. Fortunately, just as we reached this place, two Tarawera Natives whom we knew came up, on their way to the Coast, and they, in the most kind manner, stayed to help us over, leading some of the horses and helping the lads to carry the things, not only over this river, but also over two other streams a little way on. The crossing of this river always takes time when there is baggage. On this occasion, when crossing Mrs. Grace and three of the children, I was obliged to ford it 8 times.
Many miles of this country is as level as a bowling green. It appears to have been the bed of a former lake and is covered with white pumice, and beautifully studded with a very fine variety of manuka trees. It is a sad country for horses and cattle, for there is scarcely a vestige of anything for them to eat. We now began to prepare for
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Sunday. A Native on his way to Tarawera presented us with some biscuits. First of all we went to forage on the banks of the river for some branches of a shrub, which both horses and cows will feed upon. We next got all the tents nicely pitched, and the Natives made themselves a comfortable little house. Rora made a hangi (Native oven) in which to roast some pork. Mrs. Grace and the Governess washed the little ones; all went on most satisfactorily. At evening prayer we gave God thanks for all His mercies, not forgetting, as we promised our people, to have special prayer on Saturday evenings that God would be pleased to send us peace.
Sunday, Novr. 1st (25th day).--We spent a quiet day. What a blessing is a day of rest! We all required it. During the day we had the usual services; with Native School in the morning and a class for the Gospel and Collect in the evening. We had Hakaraia (Zachariah) and his wife with us, so that, in all, we were sixteen in number.
In the afternoon it came on to rain and during the night it blew hard, but, being well pitched and sheltered, we took no harm.
Monday, 2nd (26th day).--A fine morning; started after breakfast. Zachariah and his wife took their leave of us in a very kind way, promising to visit us at Matata. We were able to give them some medicine for their sick, which I trust may be of some service to them. Towards noon the day became quite hot and the four little ones who were walking were knocked up. At 1 p.m. we stopped to cook some food by the side of a stream, when an old chief belonging to Rotorua came up and took dinner with us. We had seen him at Tapahora on Friday. He expressed great sorrow for the death of Te Heuheu; he intends soon to go to Taupo to tangi for him. This part of the road is very good. We reached Ahiinanga at 4 p.m. Here our travelling by land ends; all we now have to do is to drop down the river to Matata, about 15 miles in a direct line, but very much more on this winding river. In coming up with a full canoe it always takes us 2 days from Matata to this place. I have a dilapidated depot here, which stands alone in a place that the Maoris have forsaken. It has always, more or less, had things in it which are very
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tempting to Natives, yet it has never been robbed, if we except one occasion when a poor, insane man took some things out of it, all of which, with the exception of a box of soap that he burned and spoiled, were returned to me without any trouble. We have found a few Maoris here who have received us very kindly and have brought us some food. We are thankful for it, as our stock is exhausted.
Very soon after our arrival this afternoon, a Native came galloping from Kupanga bringing us a letter from Teopira, and about 2 lbs. of sugar. He wrote to say that he and his wife had both been laid up with fever, and that his wife was still so ill that he could not leave her. He had heard that we were short of food and was very sorry that he had no European food, but a little sugar, which he was sending for the children. The two Tarawera Natives, who helped us over the river on Saturday, continued with us until we came to the stopping place, when, knowing that they had had nothing since morning, we had a little flour boiled for them, but had to serve it without sugar. After they had taken it they went on, and, when they arrived at Kupanga to-day, they related that we had suffered for want of food--hence the sugar of our friend Teopira. Surely the Gospel has produced something! Their acts of kindness have not been done from a desire of gain. I must ever bear witness to their kindness to me in my travels. These people are now part of my charge and belong to the district of Matata.
At present the war is the great subject that occupies their minds. They wrote to me about two months ago to say that they had held a meeting, and had all concluded to sit still, unless the Pakeha came and molested them. I am now happy to find that they continue in the same mind. We had quite a nice little party at evening service. I questioned them on the chapter we had read, but found the women very ignorant.
Danger is always near. The ladies took the little ones to be washed. The river is deep and, as at this place it works its way through clay, the sides are quite perpendicular. They got into the canoe that was lying there and made fast at the bow. Mrs. Grace had washed one baby and
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just returned to the tent leaving Miss Hawkes to finish the other, when I heard a scream. I flew to the canoe, jumped in up to my breast, and, by holding on with one hand to the bank, was just able to reach and grasp the Governess with the baby in her arms. Luckily she had one of her feet in the canoe, and we heard her first and only cry, otherwise both must have perished, the river being deep and swift. A moment more and Hoani was with me, and both were rescued.
The accident had occurred thus. She had been sitting in the stern end of the canoe which was made fast to the bank at the other end. When she arose to leave it, instead of going up to the bow end that was secured, she stepped out from where she was and the canoe, which was a small one, with the pressure caused by her stepping out, flew off at that end from the bank and precipitated her into the water. How many times have we experienced the gracious providence of our Heavenly Father on this journey!
Tuesday, 3rd Novr. (27th day).--Fine morning. After breakfast, there being here no canoe sufficiently large to take us, my lads went some distance down the river to bring one up; it was 4 p.m. before they returned. I did not very much regret the delay, although the members of our party were nearly all worn out, as it gave me the opportunity of spending a little time with the Maoris, and also of putting the store to rights. The canoe they have brought is a very fine one, as much too large as all the others had been too small. I say large, because I fear that to-morrow we shall find it very heavy when we come to some of the shallow places on the river.
Wednesday, 4th (28th day).--Started early and dropped down a few miles to a small kainga (village) where there are some Taupo Maoris living. We had prayers with them and then breakfast. A part of the great tribe of the Ngati-Tuwharetoa, who worked their way into Taupo, when their canoe landed on this Coast, stayed here (so runs the tradition); hence the Taupo Maoris have land claims here.
After breakfast we started again and soon came to the difficult part of the river, where it runs through an immense swamp, and divides and subdivides itself so often, that it is difficult to keep the right channel. The channel that we
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took was a very bad one for our large canoe, yet Hoani had been advised that it was the best. For some hours we were constantly in and out of the canoe in order to drag it over the sand banks. The day also began to look gloomy and, before we reached the deeper parts where the streams begin to unite, it began to rain heavily. In this part of the river there is no such thing as going ashore, there being nothing but soft swamp on each side. Four years ago I nearly lost my life here. I came down with a little Maori boy. We took a wrong stream, but, as we could not have got back to the village from whence we started, we went on until we were navigating quite narrow gutters. It was very cold weather and we had neither food nor blankets, nor any possibility of making a fire; we were very cold and wet with dragging the canoe and night was fast coming on. After going on thus until sunset, we suddenly got into quite a lake, when we steered in the direction of the main stream and gained it before it was quite dark, and so made our way to Matata. The rain continued until we were a couple of miles from this place. Such a storm of wind and rain met us from the sea, that we could not make headway with the canoe. We were obliged to land all the Europeans, who had to walk through the wet to the little store I have here. The canoe, with another Maori assisting us, was brought down; but our journey ended rather badly. We were all wet through and hungry, having had nothing to eat since morning, and we did not arrive here till dark. However, we have just enjoyed a cup of tea and hope to-morrow to have a house belonging to a European.
We are all very much knocked up and in want of rest, but I do not see that any of us has taken harm. The children have borne the journey wonderfully! Our appearance is certainly against us! Our clothes are very old; our shoes (those who have any) are old and broken, yet here we are, safe and well! To God be all the praise, for His mercy endureth for ever.
(Sd.) T. S. GRACE.
[There is evidently a break in the correspondence here. While at Matata, waiting for a boat to convey them to
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Auckland, Mrs. Grace, in the absence of her husband, suddenly found herself with her six young children at the mercy of a large body of Hauhaus. In an article that appeared in 'The Church Messenger,' March, 1891, touching upon the death of Mrs. Grace, her son, the late Archn. T. S. Grace of Blenheim, alluded to the above incident as follows:--
"Thrilling to a degree was the termination of this trying and eventful journey. Precisely on the same spot where, ten years previously, she had landed with her babes drenched to the skin, and with their lives only just saved by the pluck and daring of the Natives who had rescued them from the stranded craft, she now stood with her half-dozen helpless and frightened children clinging to her in a hut, through the crevices of which she could see the quivering limbs and hear the mad yells of hundreds of fanatical Maori warriors as they worked themselves into a frenzy with their hideous and terrific war dance, and vowed vengeance on the white man. As she looked in terror on the wild scene, with none but her little ones near her, not knowing what fate might be in store for them, a stealthy footstep was heard outside, and, a few seconds later, the old chief of the place entered the doorway, approached her silently and whispered an assurance in her ear that he would take care that no harm came to her and her children. And right nobly did the grand old fellow redeem his promise! He stood by her as a true friend and protector till, two or three days later, Mrs. Grace was joined by her husband, and took ship to Auckland. . . ."
The old chief referred to above was Pitoiwi, one of the four prisoners, who, some time after, was released through the good offices of Mr. Grace.--ED.]
