CHAPTER IV.
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CHAP. IV.
ROUGH TRAVELLING. -- IMPRESSIONS OF THE COUNTRY. -- BUSH COSTUME -- OUTPOST OCCUPATIONS. -- PROSPECTS OF A MOVE.
Sept. 10th. --We have, for the first time since I landed in New Zealand, had three successive days of fine weather; and I must say, that when it is fine it is the most delicious and invigorating climate that I know. I set out this morning on horseback for Wellington, over the most execrable road that ever was seen: a day's steeple-chasing would not give one so much trouble, or more risk of falls. Within the first two miles I nearly lost my horse in a quicksand, and had to dismount to pull him out: for ten miles farther there was scarcely any footing; and it was a succession of plunges, jumping, slipping, stumbling, and falling among interlaced roots, fallen trees, deep holes, bogs, streams, and gullies. Several times I pulled up, believing it impossible for a quadruped to get over some of the places; but, on seeing tracks on the other side, I put my horse at it.
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IMPRESSIONS OF THE COUNTRY.
believing that what had been done once might be done again: besides,
"Should I wade no more.
Returning is as tedious as go o'er."
The last few miles are by a narrow and broken path at the edge of a precipice, with a mountain stream leaping and brawling at the bottom. In spite of the difficulties, I enjoyed my ride exceedingly; thanks to the fine weather, the beauty of the forest, and the exhilarating songs of the birds.
The views from the hill-tops near Wellington are very beautiful, extending over many a mile of sea and mountain, valley and forest, till the distance is closed up by the snow-capped range of the Tararua mountains, their peaks glittering in the brilliant sunshine. The small settlements near Wellington look cheerful and thriving, and have a green and pleasant effect after the sombre colour of the forest, reminding one of the green sward of "Old England." There is certainly some charm in this country that makes one like it, in spite of the discomforts one endures; and I can only account for it by the strong resemblance there is to England in temperature and productions, in the green grass-covered slopes and the babbling brooks. It is pleasant to be greeted on the road in one's own language; to see the rosy-cheeked children
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rolling in front of every cottage door; to chat with the labourer at the roadside, or stop at his hut for a glass of milk. It is all homelike and pleasing, especially when one feels, at the same time, invigorated and braced by the temperate climate and dry atmosphere, which one appreciates the more highly after having been in the tropics, often pining for the sight of green grass and running water, and where, in the midst of stagnant lagoons and malarious swamps, one may sigh in vain for such refreshing influence; where, too, oppressed with lassitude, every nerve unstrung, and debilitated in every limb and muscle, one can scarcely imagine the light heart, the elastic step, and feeling of vigour, one so soon acquires here.
I rode out again to Porirua after a few days' stay in Wellington, and on my way met Y------, of the Artillery, the most travel-worn object one can imagine, his clothes in tatters and cased in mud from head to foot. The bush costume of the officers in New Zealand consists of a blue serge shirt, coarse trowsers, hobnail boots, and a cabbage-leaf hat or cap; as like the dress of the street orderlies as anything can be. It is a pity that those who identify a soldier with his red coat, gold lace, feathers and trappings, cannot see the reverse of the picture. How shocked
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OUTPOST OCCUPATIONS.
many a young lady would be, who had had her head turned by a military dandy at home, to see the same individual on service in New Zealand, smoking coarse tobacco in a short black pipe, drinking strong grog made of execrable spirits, and in a costume worse than any she ever saw worn by a farm labourer or a groom's understrapper!
Nov. 28th. -- Hiatus valde deflendus in my log-book. Since my last entry I have been at Porirua; the time has slipped away uneventfully, but without being dull, or ennuyeux. I have combated the devils blue most manfully, by dint of hard work; and, so far from time hanging heavily on my hands, I have generally found the day close without my having done half of what I had intended. I have planted a large piece of ground with peas, beans, cabbages, &c.; have made a large fence round my garden, and have been superintending the erection of my "wattle and dab" mansion at "Ballybotherem." I have never been engaged in so much hard manual labour in my life before: in fact it would take a tolerably good strong horse to draw some of the loads of manuka and fencing stuff that I carry down from the hills.
Dec. 5th. -- I received a very mysterious official this morning, directing me to proceed to Wellington
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at once, to prepare to embark on board the "Calliope" for service. This looks anything but pleasant, as it forebodes a detachment up the coast, probably to Wanganui, where we shall have again to go through all the discomforts we endured here at first, only increased by the greater distance from all supplies and means of communication with the settlements. Such a prospect is not at all encouraging, particularly just as I have gone to considerable expense and trouble to make myself comfortable here, supposing that it would be my quarters for some time. However, I must not growl before I know what is coming: it may possibly be an expedition against one of the coast tribes, or a dash against Rangihaeta, and then to return; in either of which cases I shall be glad to be of the party: "things without remedy should be without regard," and go I must.
