CHAPTER III. FROM JUNE, 1842, TO MARCH, 1843...
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CHAPTER III.
FROM JUNE, 1842, TO MARCH, 1843, CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF THE BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND'S VISITATION TOUR OF THE NORTHERN ISLAND, AND OF HIS VISITS TO NELSON, WELLINGTON, AND NEW PLYMOUTH.
THE journals of the Bishop will henceforth be the chief source of information respecting the diocese, and the account will be given nearly in his own words, an abridgment having been made of the letters already published by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel.
It should be observed that these letters were first printed by the Society for the Propagation of
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the Gospel, with the sanction of the present editors, but without the knowledge of the Bishop, who thus speaks of them:--
"The letters which have been printed as my Visitation Journal, were written simply for the amusement of my mother, without the least idea of their appearing in print. There are many things which I should have omitted and added, if I had prepared them for publication in the form in which they have appeared. The visitation which they describe was, in fact, only a hasty visit to the missionaries, during which I performed very few specifically episcopal acts; my chief object being to obtain a general acquaintance with the members of the mission, with the language and habits of the natives, and with the nature of the country. The letters seem to be merely such as any ordinary traveller might have written. However, if, by the clemency of the public, they have been permitted to be of any service to the Society, I must rejoice in having been made the means of adding anything to the resources or influence of a body to whom I owe so much."
On the 16th June, the Bishop left Auckland for the Bay of Islands; and on the 25th he had the comfort of being joined by his family and the clergy who had been detained at Sydney. The Rev. T. Whytehead, however, on whose help he chiefly depended for the carrying out
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many important measures, was still compelled to remain at Sydney, in consequence of severe illness, his medical advisors considering that a removal to the colder air of New Zealand in winter would be attended with fatal results.
The Bishop's companions consisted of the following clergy and students:--
REV. W. COTTON, ...Domestic Chaplain.
REV. ROBERT COLE, ...Sent to New Zealand by the Society
REV. B. L. WATSON, ...for the Propagation of the Gospel.
REV. C. L. REAY, ...Sent by the Church Missionary Society.
Rev. W. C. Dudley,
MR. BUTT, ...Students for Holy Orders.
MR. EVANS,
MR. NIHILL,
MR. FISHER,
After remaining a short time under the hospitable roof of Mr. H. Williams, at Paihia, the Bishop decided on establishing his family at the Waimate, at which place he left, July 5th, Mr. Cotton, Mr. and Mrs. Dudley, Mr. Butt, Mr. Fisher, and Mr. Nihill; proceeding himself, accompanied by Rev. R. Cole, Rev. C. L. Reay, and Mr. Evans, in his tour of visitation.
The Bishop first visited Auckland, where his stay was prolonged from the 7th to 28th July. At the time of his arrival Auckland contained a population of 1,900 persons. The Rev. J. F. Churton had officiated during the last year and a half. A brick church (since dedicated to St. Paul)
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was in progress of erection, well placed on a commanding eminence in the centre of the town; and during his stay the bishop consecrated a burial-ground, a lovely spot in a deep wooded valley, about half a mile from the town.
The ceremony of consecration was performed in a large tent, the gift of W. Cotton, Esq., Governor of the Bank, which formed a most complete cathedral, having every requisite for divine service--pulpit, reading-desk, communion-table, rails, kneeling boards, &c.
Sunday, August 21st, the Bishop arrived at Nelson, which is situated at the very bottom of Blind or Tasman's Bay, in the northern shore of the middle island. He immediately went on shore, and preached at the afternoon service in the emigration barrack. On Monday the large church tent was again pitched, by the help of the natives, who cut trunks of small trees, which, being let into the ground, supported boards for seats, which were occupied by 200 persons on the following Sunday. Writing from Nelson, the Bishop adds, "A lovely site for a church and cemetery has been reserved here; the town is extremely pretty, a small plain surrounded by lofty hills; climate delightful, with a day's heavy rain occasionally." Mr. Reay was stationed at Nelson, and the bishop left with him the church tent and all its appurtenances. Divine service was also per-
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formed at the Waimea plain, about ten miles from Nelson, a place containing a considerable agricultural population. Mr. Reay was assisted by Mr. Saxton, another clergyman who had been settled at Nelson before the Bishop's arrival.
September 10, the Bishop writes, "I arrived at Wellington. Here I found most melancholy intelligence awaiting me, with regard to my fellow-passengers who had preceded me," (Mr. Evans and Mr. Cole having sailed in another vessel direct from Auckland to Wellington.) "Mr. Cole and Mr. Evans had been attacked with typhus fever, and had been reduced almost to death. They are now slowly recovering. Mr. Evans's illness has deprived me of my travelling companion, as he will be too weak to undertake a land journey." The hopes entertained of Mr. Evans's recovery were not permitted to be realized. In a subsequent letter, the Bishop writes: "On the 3d October he expired, leaning on my arm. I had been with him three weeks, and enjoyed much comfort in the simple manner in which he expressed the sincerity of his repentance, and the grounds of his hopes for the life to come."
After the funeral, I immediately made preparation for my land journey, and left Wellington on the 10th October. My English companion was Mr. St. Hill, land agent, who engaged to travel with me as far as Taranaki.
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On Tuesday, 11th, I reached Waikanai, the station of the Rev. O. Hadfield, who is a most valuable and zealous missionary. I enjoyed his society much during the time that he was able to accompany us on our way. The next day more than 500 natives from various parts assembled for service, so that the chapel and the space outside the walls were quite full. I preached to them as well as I could, and gathered from their faces that they understood what I was saying. In fact, my progress through the country involves me in almost daily preaching and teaching, so that I hope soon to be fluent if not correct. At Waikanai, I saw the preparations for a new chapel on a large scale. The ridge piece was formed out of a single tree, and is seventy-six feet in length, a present from the neighbouring settlement of Otaki, which, till Mr. Hadfield's arrival, was at war with the people of Waikanai, but has made peace, and presented them with this appropriate token of friendship. I visited Otaki, which is another of Mr. Hadfield's stations, and after leaving it, walked twenty miles to Manawatu, and thence to Wai Pateke, where we encamped on one of the sand hills, with a small stream of fresh water running into the sea. In this situation I was detained three days by an inflammation in my heel, occasioned by walking over flat sands for many miles. My
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little tent was pitched in the hollow of the sand hills, and my native attendants made themselves comfortable round a large fire, under a little hut, which they soon constructed of drift wood and coarse grass. You would be surprised with the comparative comfort which I enjoy in my encampments. My tent is strown with dry fern or grass; my air-bed is laid upon it; my books, clothes, and other goods, lie beside it; and though the whole dimensions of my dwelling do not exceed eight feet by five, I have more room than I require. I spent October 17th, the anniversary of my consecration, in my tent on the sand hills, with no companions but three natives, my party having gone on to Wanganui to fetch a horse for me; and while in that situation, I was led naturally to contrast my present position with the very different scenes in England last year. I can assure you that the comparison brought with it no feelings of discontent; on the contrary, I spent the greater part of the day, after the usual services and readings with the natives, in thinking with gratitude over the many mercies and blessings which have been granted to me in the past year. My visit to the Bishop of Australia, my prosperous voyages, my favourable reception in every town in my diocese, my growing friendship with the natives,
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who have now heard of me in every part of the country, and welcome me with their characteristic cordiality; all form an inexhaustible subject for thoughts of joy and thanksgiving.
On the 18th, the horse which had been procured for me having arrived, I rode to Wanganui, where I met Mr. Mason, whom I had before seen at Wellington, where I admitted him to priest's orders. He is an active and zealous man, and has a district extending over a great line of coast, besides many native settlements up the Wanganui river. I went to his house, and remained there to rest the following day, when we performed native services to large congregations. A deputation of the English residents in the township of Wanganui came to congratulate me.
On the 28th, we reached New Plymouth, or Taranaki, where I was received by Mr. Wickstead, the Company's agent. 30th, Mount Egmont came out gloriously from his veil of clouds, and gave me a sight of his snowy summit. I was lodged in the house of Mr. Cooke, a gentleman who most kindly undertook to place his whole establishment at the disposal of the Chief Justice (who was to meet me here) and myself; and on going out into his garden in the morning, the view burst upon me of the whole mountain, towering up in a white cone
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above the clouds, which were still clinging to it midway. At the foot of the grounds, ran one of those beautifully clear and rapid streams which abound throughout Taranaki; and all around the fresh foliage of a New Zealand spring, tipping all the evergreens with a bright and sparkling verdure, formed a base upon which the white peak of the mountain reposed. My favourite verse came into my mind, "The lot is fallen unto me in a fair ground; yea, I have a goodly heritage." Taranaki is a lovely country, distinguished even among the many natural beauties which I have now seen. I performed the morning and afternoon services, and preached to the English in a wooden building, prepared for the purpose by Mr. Wickstead. I baptized several children, and ended with the native afternoon service. I am much gratified by the disposition of the people of this settlement, and will endeavour to meet it by zealous endeavours to promote their spiritual well-being. On the 31st, the Chief Justice having arrived, we selected sites for churches, and walked over the greater part of the town. On the 2d November, we set sail in the government brig Victoria, and after touching at Kapiti, landed at Waikanai, having accomplished by sea, in twenty-four hours, a distance which had occupied me a fortnight by land.
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November 5th, arrived at Manawatu, and on Sunday 6th, opened the new native chapel, which is beautifully fitted up with various coloured reeds, capable of containing 400 persons. November 7th, we began the ascent of the Manawatu, with six canoes, each having eight polemen, a most easy and pleasant conveyance. Spent from 8th to 11th November in ascending the Manawatu; the lower part of its course winds between flat banks covered with wood. Higher up, the river flows down through a beautiful mountain-pass between high cliffs, clothed with wood from the summit to the water, with bold masses of rock peeping out at intervals. There are several small native settlements on the banks at which we stopped; at Kaiwitikitiki, the chief brought us out a present of twenty-five baskets of potatoes, which I acknowledged by a present of books. At all the places we found a hearty welcome, and a great eagerness for instruction. On the 11th, having reached the highest navigable point of the river, we began our land journey, and after crossing a long wood, which occupied the whole of the 13th, we encamped on a small plain, and Mr. Hadfield returned to Waikanai. Sunday 13th, I conducted native services to my party of thirty natives, and spent a most happy Sunday. Our camp was on a lovely little plain,
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bounded on all sides with wood, except on one, where a view opened on a range of distant hills. Below us, in a very deep valley, flowed the Manawatu, in a very winding channel, with precipitous wooded banks feathering down to the stream. The day was the perfection of New Zealand weather, which is the perfection of all climates--hot, but rarely sultry; bright, but not glaring, from the vivid green with which the earth is generally clothed. On the 15th we arrived at Roto Atara, a small settlement on an island in the middle of a small lake, surrounded with grassy downs; the whole scene the picture of repose, and a welcome sight, as being the first of the villages connected with the east coast, which we reached after passing over a space of sixty miles, altogether uninhabited. The natives, on seeing us, sent canoes to bring us to the island, where we were received with all ceremony, welcomed with speeches, and presented with ducks, potatoes, and lake shell-fish. I made my return, as usual, in gospels of St. Matthew, from the stock supplied me by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge.
At one o'clock, we had the pleasure of seeing Archdeacon Williams and Mr. Dudley coming to meet us. Our junction was effected on the very day appointed by me in a letter from
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Manawatu, written on the 13th October. On the 16th we arrived at Ahuriri. Here we found a very numerous Christian community, though they have been only once visited by a missionary. The chapel is a substantial building, capable of containing 400 persons. On the 18th, after crossing the harbour of Ahuriri, we walked along the eastern coast twelve miles to Aropanui; and on the 19th, after a toilsome walk over sandstone hills, where we had great difficulty in finding water, we were obliged, by weariness, to encamp on the side of a swamp. A further search, however, discovered the head of the spring, from which we obtained a sufficient supply. This was a rare case, for one of the charms of this country is in the continual recurrence of gushing streams of the purest water. On Sunday, November 20, we enjoyed another peaceful Sunday. The morning opened, as usual, with the morning hymn of the birds, which Captain Cook compares to a concert of silver bells, beginning an hour before the sun rises, and ceasing as soon as it appears above the horizon. When the song of the birds was ended, the sound of native voices, chanting around our tents, carried on the same tribute of praise and thanksgiving; while audible murmurs on every side brought to our ears the passages of the Bible which others were read-
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ing to themselves. I never felt the full blessings of the Lord's-day, as a day of rest, more than in New Zealand, when, after encamping late on Saturday night, with a weary party, you will find them early on the Sunday morning seated quietly round their fires, with their New Testaments in their hands.
On the 21st we arrived at the Wairoa, which is a very pretty station, with a beautiful river winding through an extensive plain, and communicating with a chain of inland lakes. Here we rested one day, and conducted services with the natives. On our way to Turanga we met an Englishman, who came to tell us that the chapel at Turanga had been blown down. It was a noble building, for native work, capable of containing 1000 persons. We arrived at Turanga on the 25th, and on the 27th a noble congregation, amounting to at least 1000, assembled amidst the ruins of the chapel. They came up in the most orderly way, in parties headed by the native chiefs and teachers, and took their places on the ground with all the regularity of so many companies of soldiers. We were placed under an awning made of tents, but the congregation sat in the sun. The gathering of this body of people, their attentive manner, and the deep sonorous uniformity of their responses, was most striking. I preached
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to them from Acts xv. (16, 17), on Christ repairing the breaches of David's fallen tabernacle, that the Gentiles might seek the Lord. During the service, Mr. Williams was duly installed as Archdeacon of Waiapu, or East Cape, and will have jurisdiction over all the country to the eastward of the 176th degree of east longitude. This appointment was one of my first public acts. In taking this step, I have acted upon the strongest recommendation of the Bishop of Australia, confirmed by personal intercourse with him. Archdeacon Williams is a man universally beloved, and one who, during twenty years of residence in a savage country, has lost nothing of that high tone of feeling which distinguishes the best class of English clergymen.
After the morning service, the natives formed into their classes for reading and saying the Catechism. The native character appears in this in a most favourable light,--old tattooed warriors standing side by side with young men and boys, and submitting to lose their place for every mistake with the most perfect good humour.
On the 3d December, we reached the Pa of Rangitukia, in the centre of a plain, in the valley of the Waiapu. Beyond it is the mission house of Mr. Stack, where we arrived at sunset, and pitched our tents under the verandah of his
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unfinished building. On the next day (Sunday) a very full native congregation assembled at Rangitukia. After morning service, I had an English service with some settlers at the place. There is now scarcely one of the mission settlements at which parties of white men have not settled, and the missionaries very properly invite them to an English service every Sunday. On our way to Opotiki, we had to encounter a long woody ascent, through which we could only advance at the rate of half-a-mile an hour. When we arrived at the summit, we found it still thickly covered with wood. The native path, such as it was, went over the highest ridge as usual, probably from the desire of the war parties to keep the highest ground for fear of surprise. Towards evening, on December 8th, we encamped near the River Raukokore,--a beautiful stream with high wooded banks, forming a succession of noble amphitheatres. The men being very tired, I made them my usual restorative, which I call "rongoa," (medicine,) as it is inconsistent with native etiquette for a chief to prepare food. It is made thus:--Boil a large kettle of water; in a separate pan, mix half a pound of chocolate, beaten fine, two pounds of flour, and half a pound of sugar; mix to a thin paste, and pour it into the water when boiling; stir till the mess thickens. This is a most
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popular prescription with the natives, as you may judge from the ingredients, and very nourishing and warm, for men who have to sleep out at night in a damp climate.
After another day's very toilsome and difficult walking, we emerged, to our groat joy, upon the coast of the Bay of Plenty, near a Pa called To Kakahu. Here we encamped, and were sorry to find (what is very unusual) that the majority of the population were heathens. The next day (Sunday) I conducted the usual native services, morning and afternoon, and the mid-day school; and afterwards visited the principal chief of the place, to remonstrate with him on his abandonment of religion. It appeared, that various causes had led to the relapse of the chiefs, among which was the death of some of their children, which they attributed to the displeasure of their own Atua (Spirit or God) at the introduction of Christianity. At sunset, the whole outline of the Bay of Plenty, Mount Edgecombe, Whale Island, Sulphur Island, and Tauranga Head, were beautifully relieved upon a bright belt of straw-coloured light, under a heavy canopy of rain clouds. The coast of the Bay of Plenty is in accordance with its name; the native cultivations often sloping down the gentle hills which skirt the belt of sand upon the sea shore: and the rich Pohutu-
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kawa trees, (Metrosideros tomentosa,) covered at this time with crimson blossoms, combining the beauties of a forest tree and a garden shrub, give the appearance of an ornamental garden, instead of the usual bleak and barren features of the coast. From the top of a fine wooded headland, called Pokoinu, we had a beautiful sea view, with Sulphur and Whale Island on the horizon; the former covered, as usual, with its white canopy of sulphureous steam. In the evening of the 12th, we came to a native settlement at Tungapahore, with very neat and extensive cultivations. Here we found Mr. Wilson, Catechist of the Church mission, who had come on from Opotiki to meet us. We encamped for the night in company with him, and in the evening I examined and baptized several of his candidates. On the 13th, we reached Opotiki, one of the Church Missionary Society's stations in the Bay of Plenty; and I baptized several candidates. On the 14th we visited Pupuarue, where we were most hospitably received by the people. Here I examined and baptized several candidates; and on the 15th we walked to Matata, from whence we enjoyed a fine view of Putawaki, (Mount Edgecombe,) distant about ten miles. It had no snow. I should think it is not more than 7,000 feet high at the utmost.
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On the 17th we walked towards Tauranga, and when about three miles from that place, met Mr. Brown and Mr. Kissling, two clergymen of the mission, coming to meet us. We crossed the harbour of Tauranga in Mr. Brown's boat, and arrived at the station, a pretty cottage of native workmanship, surrounded with rose-trees, all looking so comfortable and suitable, that I was much prepossessed in favour of the inmates by the appearance of their dwelling; nor was I disappointed, as I found Mr. and Mrs. Brown extremely sensible and right-minded.
On the 20th we left Tauranga, and walked twelve miles to the entrance of the great wood extending to Rotorua Lake--the wood itself occupied us nine hours, the last half of the way being a good wide horse-path, cut by the natives of Rotorua; the last three miles entirely cleared of stumps, and coated with powdered pumice-stone; forming as good a road as any in England. On emerging from the wood, we had a noble view of Rotorua Lake--the island Mokoia in the centre, the steam of the hot springs rising in a thick cloud at the north end, and the beautiful wooded hills of Tarawera forming the back-ground:--we walked down to the shore of the lake, where we assembled the natives for evening service, and then sailed across to the Ngae, the Mission station, where
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Mr. Chapman received us in his comfortable house, of native workmanship. The next day we received visits from most of the native teachers, conversed with them, and distributed books. We afterwards walked to some of the hot springs, a short distance from the station, where we found vast cauldrons of black mud boiling furiously. A little further on was a small brook of milky water, at one place forming a series of small cascades, each falling into a little rocky basin, about the size of a man. In one of these I bathed, the water being about the usual temperature of a warm-bath: a sprain, which I had had for some days, was entirely removed.
There are no fewer than eleven lakes in the district of Rotorua. The lakes, which have caused the name Rotorua (which implies two lakes), are joined together by a small stream, like a chain-shot. Of the others, the most remarkable for beauty is Tarawera; and for natural curiosities, Rotomahana (the warm lake). The hot springs of Wakarewarewa, about seven miles from Mr. Chapman's, are by far the finest at Rotorua. There are mud cauldrons, black, blue, grey, green, yellow, and red, the very emblem of laziness; a faint steam rises from them, and ever and anon a solitary bubble of gas disengages itself slowly from the surface,
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which then returns to its usual dulness. Close by the side of these, and in strong contrast, are the clear pools of boiling water, of great depth and of bright azure, enclosed in precipitous walls of sulphurous formation; from some of these, hot streams flow down, which are guided by the natives either into artificial baths, or into natural hollows of the rocks; the supply of hot water being so regulated as to keep the bath at the right temperature. Among these cauldrons and pools, a strong and rapid stream of cold water rushes down, in some places not a yard from the spot at which the natives are sitting up to their breasts in hot water, shelling Tawa berries, or peeling potatoes, or enjoying their never-failing resource of smoking. But by far the most beautiful springs are the boiling jets, which are thrown up to the height of many feet, from a narrow orifice in the top of an irregular cone, formed of the matter held in solution by the water, which is deposited as it cools, and forms a substance of a pinkish-white colour, sometimes also tinged with yellow, by crystals of sulphur. It is perfectly safe to stand upon the tops of these cones, to the windward of the spout, and from that position it is grand, first, to hear the roaring and boiling of the cauldron, and then to see the jet spring up into the air, shivered by the
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force of its projection into silvery foam, and accompanied by a volume of white steam. The hot water, in its descent, trickles down the sides of the crater, and falls into several natural baths of most agreeable temperature, formed in the pure and white substance of the cone, and lined with the same matter, in its half-formed state, still yielding and elastic. A small native village is here, with the usual appurtenances of a native steam kitchen at the hot springs: viz. hot plates, made of large slabs of stone, laid over boiling water to dry the Tawa berry upon; steam hanghis, or native ovens, always in readiness, and holes of boiling water, in which fish and potatoes can be speedily cooked. A native swing completes the equipment of this fashionable watering-place, which, together with the game of drafts, relieve the ennui of those who resort to the baths.
One circumstance which we observed in this district, seemed to explain at least one cause of the decrease of the native population in other parts of the country--(observed by the Bishop of Australia, see page 26): viz. the neglect of cleanliness in the children, especially in infancy. Here, where they are nursed and cradled in warm water, and where they dabble in it at all hours of the day, as soon as they can walk, their appearance is similar to
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the healthy and ruddy countenances of English children. 1
On the 34th we arrived at Nga Totara, one of the small villages which go by the general name of Maungatautari. A large fire had demolished the chapel and most of the dwellings; but we pitched among the ruins, and found the natives most kind and hospitable. On Christmas-day we walked two miles to Whareturere, another of the Maungatautari villages, where I found a good chapel, in which I officiated; and after morning service, asked and answered questions in the Bible--till the time of school--which I conducted, and afterwards called on a chief, reputed to be a heathen, but professing Romanism. I had a long conversation with him, but with what effect I was not able to judge. In the evening he walked back with us, and attended our evening service, which we held in the open air.
On the 26th we walked several miles through native cultivations, and wheat fields, of very considerable extent, and came to Te Wera a te Atua, the last of the cluster of villages; where we were greeted with letters from Auckland,
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and a present of raspberries from the native teacher, both quite unexpected, in a small village in the heart of New Zealand. We then proceeded to Otawao, a mission station (near the Waipa river), where we were hospitably received by Mr. and Mrs. Morgan. The following morning a large body of natives assembled to morning service in the open air, the chapel having been blown down. After service, I attended the school, where I was much struck by a fine old blind man catechising his class; his whole manner and figure were most venerable. 2
The same evening we started to walk ten miles to Puehunui, on the river Waipa, where Mr. Maunsell's boat was in readiness to take us down the river; but we did not embark till the following morning, when, with a crew of seven natives, with paddles, we rowed down the deep and still stream of the Waipa at the rate of six miles an hour.
Waipa is a most valuable river for inland navigation. For fifty miles above its junction
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with the Waikato it is navigable by vessels of many tons burden with the greatest ease; and the stream is so gentle, that vessels may ascend and descend with almost equal facility. Towards sun-set, we came to Kaitotohe, Mr. Ashwell's mission station, where we pitched our tents in a little grass plot in front of his house.
On the 30th I reached Maraetai, the mission station of the Rev. R. Maunsell, at the mouth of the river Waikato. Mr. and Mrs. Maunsell received me into their house. I spent the next day in conversing with Mr. Maunsell on the subject of the Translations of the Bible and Prayer-book. He is one of the best linguists in the Mission, and is now engaged upon the Old Testament. I have formed a Translation Committee, composed of two clergymen and two catechists--Archdeacon Williams, Mr. Maunsell, Mr. Hamlin, and Mr. Puckey--to revise all old translations, and to look over all new matter; so that I hope, in due time, to get a standard copy of the Bible and Prayer-book, to be published under authority. 3
Sunday, January 1.--Reviewed with great thankfulness the various events of the past year, so full of new and important features. At the
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morning service, I preached on "The former things are passed away; behold, I make all things new."
On the 2d I crossed Waikato harbour in a boat, and went along the sands to Pehiakura, half-way to Manukau, where I found a large chapel, having glass windows, the gift of the late governor.
Tuesday, January 2.--My last pair of thick shoes being worn out, and my feet much blistered with walking the day before on the stumps, which I was obliged to tie to my insteps with pieces of native flax, (phormium tenax,) I borrowed a horse, and rode twelve miles to Mr. Hamlin's mission station on Manukau harbour. After breakfast, wind and tide being favourable, I sailed across the harbour, a noble sheet of water, but very dangerous from shoals and frequency of squalls. At noon I landed at Onehunga with my faithful Maori, Rota (Lot,) who had steadily accompanied me from Kapiti, carrying my bag of gown and cassock, the only remaining article in my possession of the least value. The suit which I wore was kept sufficiently decent, by much care, to enable me to enter Auckland by daylight; and my last remaining pair of shoes were strong enough for the light and sandy walk of six miles from Manukau to Auckland. I reached the judge's
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house by a path avoiding the town, and passing over land which I have bought for the site of the cathedral; a spot, which I hope may hereafter be traversed by the feet of many bishops better shod and far less ragged than myself. It is a noble site, overlooking the whole town, and with a sea view, stretching out over the numerous islands of the Gulf of Houraki.
On the 7th, I received letters from the Bay of Islands, reporting the rapid decline of Mr. Whytehead's health, and the fear of his speedy dissolution. I was partly prepared for this by previous letters; but when the reality of the blow came upon me, it almost overpowered me for the time, for we have walked together in God's spiritual house so long, that his death will be like the loss of another brother. I engaged the schooner which brought the tidings, to take me the same afternoon to the Bay of Islands, and on the 9th reached Paihia, whence I rowed up in the boat to the beginning of the path to the Waimate, where I arrived at half-past six. How pleasant was the sight of the little white spire, rising up among the trees and corn-fields! On the way, I learned that Mr. Whytehead was still alive. To avoid surprising him, I went round to the back door, but my little boy came running out and called out so loudly that Mr. Whytehead heard him, and was one of the first
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to meet me in the passage. His pale and spectral face told its own story; still it was a great blessing to see him again. I was permitted to enjoy nearly ten weeks of his society, for he was spared to us till the 19th March. His end was as peaceful and holy as his life. The evening before, he had been sitting with us in the drawing-room till the usual hour; but early on the Sunday morning a change took place, and we saw the hand of death upon him. He joined in the parting prayer in the service for the visitation of the sick, after which his mind began to wander; in a few minutes more, his breathing gradually ceased, and his face immediately settled itself into an expression of the most tranquil slumber, with a cast of thought, as if it were under the influence of a heavenly dream.
He had been well enough, on his first arrival from Sydney, to read with Mr. Davis, one of the candidates for holy orders, whom I afterwards ordained, (in June, 1843,) and he has left an impression on his mind which will never be effaced.
He was buried on the 21st March, at the east end of the Waimate church, the coffin being borne by the students of St. John's College.
The communion plate, presented to the Bishop by his congregation and other friends at Wind-
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sor, on his appointment, was used for the first time on the 5th February, at the Waimate.
On the 25th February, the Bishop writes, "I held my first confirmation, at which 325 natives were confirmed, and a more orderly, and I hope impressive, ceremony, could not have been conducted in any Church in England; the natives coming up in parties to the communion table, and audibly repeating the answer, 'E wakoetia ana e ahau' (I do confess). It was a most striking sight to see a church filled with native Christians, ready at my first invitation to obey the ordinances of their religion. On the following Sunday, 300 native communicants assembled at the Lord's table, though the rain was unceasing; some of them came two days' journey for this purpose. My Windsor communion plate was used for the second time on this occasion. The natives were much pleased when they were told that it was a present from my congregation in England, and seemed to enter fully into the spirit of the gift.
"St. John's College is now open with seven students:--
MR. RICHARD Davis. Candidate for Holy Orders.
MR. W. NIHILL.
MR. H. BUTT.
MR. T. WILLIAMS. Son of Rev. H. Williams.
MR. F. FISHER.
MR SEYMOUR SPENCER.
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"We have much to be thankful for in the character of the clerical body whom we found here, and I think myself happy in having under me those in whom I shall see so much to commend and so little to reprove. Among the Christian natives, I have met with most pleasing instances of the natural expression of deep and earnest feelings of religion. In their affectionate and child-like behaviour to the missionaries, it is impossible not to recognize their sense of incalculable benefits derived from them. The missionary is their friend and adviser on all occasions, having gained their confidence by imparting that, which they know to be the most valuable of all knowledge."
The Bishop closes one of his first letters to the Church Missionary Society with these words:--
"I hope this letter will have put you in some degree in possession of my feelings towards the natives, and towards the mission; if you have gathered from it that I have imbibed the strongest regard for this native people, and a very high respect and esteem for the members of the mission in general, you will have drawn a right conclusion from this very imperfect statement of my real feelings. I would rather that you should give me credit for feeling more than I express, than incur the danger of seeming to exaggerate beyond the facts of the case. God
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grant, that the facts may every day more and more speak for themselves, and prove this country to be, as I believe it to be, the ground-plot of one of the most signal mercies which God has ever granted to the missionary exertions of His church."
