[CONTENTS]
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CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
Page
Discovery of the Islands; subsequent exploration; labours of Church mission; general remarks.............l
North, Middle, and South, or Stewart islands, their geological formation, number and distribution of harbours.............2-4
The six provinces, Auckland, Wellington, Nelson, Canterbury, Otago, and New Plymouth, their capabilities and European population.............5-8
Native population.............8
CHAPTER I.
NORTH ISLAND.
FROM THREE KINGS ISLANDS TO HAURAKI GULF, INCLUDING AUCKLAND HARBOUR AND ITS APPROACHES.
Making the land from the westward; Three Kings islands; coast from North Cape to Cape Brett.............9
Poor Knights, and Moro-Tiri islands; Moko-Hinou, and Fanal Group; Little Barrier island; Hauraki gulf; Kawau island.............10,11
Flat rock; Wangaproa passage; Tiri-Tiri island; Shearer rock; Rangitoto island.............12
Auckland harbour, and its approach; anchorage outside; Waitemata river.............13,14
Koreho and Ilich channels; Koreho shoal; Tehmaki, and Waiheki channels.............15
Passage, and Sunday rocks; Shell bank; Single rock; Terakihi islet; tides in Hauraki gulf, and on east coast of North island.............16,17
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CHAPTER II.
THE COAST FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN TO CAPE BRETT, BAY OF ISLANDS--FROM CAPE BRETT TO AUCKLAND HARBOUR--THE FRITH OF THE THAMES.
Strong tides and currents on north coast; Cape Maria Van Diemen; Pandora bank; Columbia reef; Spirits bay.............18
Tom Bowline bay; North Cape; Parenga-renga harbour.............19
Great Exhibition bay; Ohora bay and river, anchorage.............20
Cape Kara-Kara; Rangaounou bay and river.............21
Matai bay; Orurua village, native supplies; Doubtless bay; Monganui harbour; Taipa river.............22,23
Wangaroa bay and harbour; anchorage in Kaouou bay; anchorage outside; Stephenson island.............24,25
West bay, anchorage in westerly winds; Arrow rocks; Flat island; Cavalli islands and passage.............26
BAY OF ISLANDS. Tako bay; Bay of Islands, general description; Cape Wiwiki.............27
Galakek island; Nine Pin rock; Motu Roa island; Black rocks; Tepuna bay; Tepahi islands; Porae-nui point.............28
Onslow, or Howe rock; with directions for clearing.............29
Brother's and Slains Castle rocks; directions for passing on either side; anchorage in Port Tepuna.............29,30
Keri-Keri river; Kent passage; Tapeka point; Manawaroroa point; Brampton or Favourite bank.............31
Marks for clearing Brampton bank; Kororarika bay and anchorage, directions for entering; Hermione rock.............30
Motu Mea island; Waitangi river; Paihia village and mission station; Tore-Tore peninsula; Wahapu bay.............33
Waikari and Kaua-Kaua rivers; anchorage in the Waikari; bank of 16 feet off Kororarika; directions for clearing it.............34
Town of Kororarika, stores and supplies to be obtained; resident magistrate; settlers.............35
Eastern portion of the Bay of Islands; the Rawiti anchorages, with passages leading to; Islands; Whale rock.............36,37
Dangers in the Rawiti; Capstan rock; Paroa and Manawara bays, with directions for entering.............38-40
Parekura and Waipero bays; Makiwi cove; Albert channel, not to be attempted without a leading wind; Hope reef; small craft anchorage on south side of Orupukupuku island; Richards peninsula; Deep water cove; Twins rocks.............40,41
Piercy islet; Bird rock; Cape Brett; directions for entering the Bay of Islands from the southward; Tides.............42
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FROM CAPE BRETT TO AUCKLAND HARBOUR.
Inshore courses from Cape Brett, into the Hauraki gulf; Wangamomoo harbour.............43
Coast southward of Wangamomoo harbour; Bland bay; Danger rock; Wangaruru harbour; Mimiwanga bay; Wide Berth islands.............44-46
Elizabeth reef; Four islets; Sandy bay; Three Gables; Tutukaka harbour,Nongodo river.............47,48
Bream head; Wangari bay, harbour, river, and anchorages, with directions.............49-53
Bream tail to Rodney point; Little Oma cove; Great Oma bay; Kawau island.............53,54
North channel leading to Kawau bay and Bon Accord harbour; Maori rock,with directions for clearing.............54,55
Bon Accord harbour; Martello rock; Mayne islands; North, and Dispute coves; Flat rock.............55,56
Tides in Kawau channels; South channel leading to Kawau bay and Bon Accord harbour; Albert shoal, with marks for clearing.............57, 58
Ora, and Kaitu-Kala islands; Inner channel leading to Kawau bay, and Bon Accord harbour; Kawau bay; Maurhangi harbour and river.............59, 60
Coast southward of Maurhangi harbour; Wangaproa peninsula, anchorage on both sides of; Tofino bay.............60,61
Cape Colville; Coromandel, and Tekomi harbours, with directions; Menia bay; Rivers Thames, Piako, and Wairoa.............61-64
CHAPTER III.
GREAT BARRIER ISLAND--COAST FROM CAPE COLVILLE TO EAST CAPE, INCLUDING THE ISLANDS AND ROCKS IN THE BAY OF PLENTY--EAST CAPE TO MAHIA, OR TERAKAKO PENINSULA--MAHIA PENINSULA TO CAPE PALLISER.
Great Barrier island, general description; Moko Hinou, and Fanal islands, with outlying dangers; Horn rock.............65
Western coast of Great Barrier Island; Catherine bay; Port Abercrombie; Nagle cove; Port Fitzroy; False Head.............66,67
Pig islands; Wangapara-para harbour; Pirogues rocks; Okupu bay.............68
Port Tofino; Cape Barrier; detached rocks, and foul ground off.............69
East coast of Great Barrier island; Tides; Arid island.............70
Coast from Cape Colville to Mercury bay; Channel islet; Cuvier island; Charles cove; Kenedy bay; Wangapoa river; Mercury islands.............70,71
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Richard's rock; Koruenga islets; Mercury bay, directions for entering, and anchorages; Cook's bay, and Mangrove river.............72-74
BAY OF PLENTY.
Castle island; Alderman islands; Mayor island; Tairua river; Slipper island, temporary anchorage under, in fine weather.............75
Whangamata river, anchorage outside with off shore winds; Kati-Kati river; Tauranga harbour, with directions for entering; tides; Mount Monganui.............76-79
Motiti island; Kaituna river, navigable for boats; Maketu Pah; Waihi, and Matata rivers.............79
Mount Edgcumbe; Whakatane river, navigable for coasters; Whale island (MotuHora) ; Ru-Rima rocks; Ohiwa and Opotiki rivers, Church mission.............80
Coast from Ohiwa river to Cape Runaway; Tides; Omaio village; Motu-nui peninsula, with anchorage for coasters; Wangaparawa roadstead, anchorages.............81,82
Cape Runaway to Hicks bay; Lottin, and Midway points; Hicks bay, secure anchorage with westerly winds.............83
Kawa-Kawa roadstead; anchorage with S.E. winds; Awatere river; Wharekahika village, native supplies.............34
From Hicks bay to East cape; aspect of land; East cape islet, anchorage; winds; tides.............84,85
ISLANDS AND ROCKS IN BAY OF PLENTY.
Enumeration of; Alderman group, and off-lying dangers.............85
Shoe, and Slipper islands; Mayor island, temporary anchorage; Karewha, and Motiti islands.............86
Schooner rocks; Astrolabe rock, with marks for; Plate island.............87
Whale island (Motu Hora), Ru-Rima rocks; White island an active volcano; Three rocky islets.............88,89
FROM EAST CAPE TO MAHIA, OR TEKAKAKO PENINSULA.
Wai-apu river, unsafe anchorage; Repourua village; Kaimouhu head; Open bay, anchorage with off-shore winds; Tokamarua bay, dangerous anchorage.............89-91
St. Patrick's cove, whaling station, shelter for boats; Waipari bay; Marau bluff; Tolago bay, anchorage with westerly winds; Cook's watering cove.............91,92
Motara bluff and islet; Gable end Foreland; Poverty bay, anchorage dangerous with S.E. winds; rivers in Poverty bay; Church mission.............92-94
Ariel rocks, with marks for clearing; Mahia, or Tera-kako peninsula, anchorage outside with S.W. winds; Portland island; General remarks on approaching the coast.............95,96
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FROM MAHIA, OR TERAKAKO PENINSULA TO CAPE PALLISER.
Hawke bay and anchorages; Ahuriri river and roadstead, with directions for entering; Wairoa river (See also Appendix.").............96-98
Kidnappers Cape to Cape Turnagain, boat-landing north of cape; Cape Turnagain to Cape Palliser; Castle and Flat points; Cape Palliser, rocks and reefs off.............98-100
CHAPTER IV.
COOK STRAIT.
CAPE PALLISER TO NEW PLYMOUTH.
General remarks; Palliser bay; Wairarapa valley; Taourakira, and Baring heads; Fitzroy bay, anchorage with N.W. gales.............101, 102
Port Nicholson; Pencarrow head, and beacon; Palmer head; Barret reef; Chaffers passage.............103
Main channel to Port Nicholson; Worser bay; AVard island; Evans bay; Lambton harbour, marks for anchorage; River Hutt.............104,105
Somes island; tides in Port Nicholson; best course to be pursued by vessels meeting gales in Cook strait.............106,107
Prevailing winds; coast west of Port Nicholson; Lyall bay; Albert mount, and signal station; Karori or Seal rock; Toms rock, and marks to clear it.............107,108
Cape Terawitti; making Port Nicholson from the westward; tides, and heavy ripplings in the centre of strait.............109
Coast northward of Cape Terawitti; Oharui bight, boat landing; Porirua harbour; Mana island, anchorage under.............110
Coast northward of Porirua harbour; AVaikanai river; Kapiti island and anchorages, with directions for.............111,112
Coast northward of Kapiti island; Otaki, and Oahau rivers,Manawatu, and Rangitiki rivers, Wanganui river, directions for entering; Tides; town of Petre.............112-114
Coast from Wanganui river to New Plymouth; rivers; Waimate bight and Pah; Mission station; Cape Egmont; Mount Egmont; New Plymouth roadstead; Sugar-loaf islands; General remarks, winds, weather, tides.............115-119
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CHAPTER V.
COOK STRAIT.
FROM CAPE CAMPBELL TO CAPE FAREWELL, INCLUDING BLIND AND MASSACRE BAYS.
Cape Campbell, anchorage in bight to the westward; soundings and heavy tide ripplings in Strait; White bluff; Cloudy bay, anchorage; in Wairau river, navigable for cargo boats; Port Underwood, good port of refuge.............120-122
Wellington head; Tory channel; Cape Koamoroo, with dangers off.............122, 123
Brothers islands, and dangers in vicinity; Cook's rock, with directions for clearing.............124-125
Queen Charlotte's sound, with directions for entering; bays, anchorages and dangers within; Ship cove; tides and winds.............125-128
Port Gore, with its anchorages; Waitui bay, Guards bay, and anchorage.............129-130
Pelorus sound, general character of country; entrance on either side Chetwode islands, half-tide rock in western passage, with directions for clearing; depth of water; bays and anchorages; tides and winds.............130-133
Admiralty bay; Trio islands; Jag rocks; D'Urville island and harbours; Stephens island.............134
Rangitoto roadstead, anchorage with westerly winds; Port Hardy, with directions.............135
Greville, or Brooke harbour; Current basin and French pass, with directions for; peculiarity of tides; excellent fishing place.............136-138
BLIND BAY, FROM D'URVILLE ISLAND TO MOTUEKA RIVER
General remarks; enumeration of anchorages.............138
Croisilles harbour, port of refuge; directions for entering; Pepin island.............139
Nelson haven, pilot necessary; directions for entering; anchorage outside bar; tides; vessels may beach for repair; Bolton Hole anchorage; anchorage in Waimea river.............140-143
BLIND BAY, FROM SEPARATION POINT TO MOTUEKA RIVER.
Separation point; remarkable white stripe available as a clearing mark for the end of Farewell spit; Awarua bay and anchorage, Tonga roadstead.............143
Torrent bay; Astrolabe and Fisherman roads; tides and currents in Blind bay.............144,145
FROM SEPARATION POINT TO CAPE FAREWELL.
Massacre bay, general description; Mount Burnett; Cape Farewell; Farewell spit; Tasman Corner; directions for anchorage; heavy surf on beach; boat's crew lost.............144-146
Aorere river; Coaling road, anchorage; Tata islands and anchorage; directions for entering Massacre bay; tides; directions for entering Cook strait from the south-westward.............147, 148
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CHAPTER VI.
FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN TO NEW PLYMOUTH.
Cape Maria Van Diemen; Pandora bank; coast to Reef point.............149
Ahaipara roadstead; Reef point; False Hokianga, Wangape.............150
Hokianga river, general description; bar; directions for entering; Martin bay; narrows; anchorage; creeks, and tributary rivers; tides, fogs, winds; general remarks; signals.............151-158
Coast from Hokianga river to Kaipara harbour; Monganui bluff.............158
Kaipara harbour; general description; marks for entrance; channels into; anchorages; tides.............159-163
Coast from Kaipara to Manukau harbour.............163
Manukau harbour, general remarks; entrance; bar; signals; leading marks; tides, inner waters.............164-169
Coast from Manukau harbour to Waikato river; Waikato river; coast southward; Whaingaroa harbour, directions for entering.............169,170
Gannet island; Aotea harbour; outlying rocks; directions.............171
Kawhia harbour; its approach; directions for north and south channel.............172
Coast southward of Kawhia harbour; Albatross point; Marakopa river; Mokau river; White bluff; Waitera river.............173,174
CHAPTER VII.
MIDDLE ISLAND.
EAST COAST OF MIDDLE ISLAND--FROM CAPE CAMPBELL TO THE EASTERN ENTRANCE OF FOVEAUX STRAIT.
Cape Campbell and outlying rocks; coast to Kaikora peninsula; Waiharakaka river, and anchorage off; Flaxburn; Benmore mountain; Waiau-toa or Big river; Kaikora peninsula; coasting anchorages.............175
Southerly current; Kaikora, and Looker-on mountains; Amuri bluff; Waiau-ua river; Gore bay; Hurunui river; Sail rock.............176
Table island; Pegasus bay; Double corner; Avon, or Opawaha river.............177
Soundings, tides, currents, and general remarks on the coast between Cape Campbell and Banks peninsula.............178
Banks peninsula; general description; soundings off; harbours; Port Cooper.............179
Port Levy, and Pigeon bay; Akaloa bay; Sail rocks.............180-181
Bone bay; Akaroa harbour.............182
From Akaroa harbour to the westward; Ninety-miles beach; Waihora lake.............183
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Timaru; Waitangi river; Coast southward; Moerangi bay.............184
Whalers' home point; Pish and Danger reefs; Waikouaiti, and Blueskin bays; soundings off coast.............185
Otago harbour, and its approach; Bar; North channel; anchorage outside; directions for entering; Driver rock; tides; buoys; signals; lighthouse.............186-189
Coast from Otago to Nugget point; Molyneux bay and anchorage, Matau or Clutha river; current; soundings; coast from Nugget point to Poveaux strait.............189,190
Long point; Tautuku bay; Chaslands mistake; Brothers point; Waikawa river; Waipapapa point; exposed coast and irregular tides; Mataura river; general remarks.............191,192
CHAPTER VIII.
FOVEAUX STRAIT, AND SOUTH OF STEWART ISLAND, INCLUDING THE TRAPS ROCKS AND SNARES ISLANDS.
Foveaux strait, general description of, and difficulties of navigation.............193
Solander island.............194
Ruapuke island and anchorage; Green island; Seal and Toby rocks.............195
Breaksea islands.............195
Kelly rock; outlying islets and dangers off Ruapuke island; Caroline bay; eastern entrance of Poveaux strait; tides.............197-199
Prevailing winds in Foveaux strait.............199,200
Bluff hill, view from; Bluff harbour; Dog island.............201,202
New river.............203
Coast westward of New river: Jacobs river; Howell roads.............204
Dangers on north side of Foveaux strait; Centre island; Fish and Escape reefs; Pig island; Half Way and Doubtful rocks; caution necessary in navigating.............204,205
Tewaewaes bay and Mid-bay reef; coast from Tewaewaes bay to Puysegur point; Green islets; Patupo or Big river, Price's boat harbour, Windsor point, Marshall rock.............205,206
SOUTH, OR STEWART ISLAND.
General description of.............206
Saddle point; Murray river, and roadstead.............207
Anchorage on east side of Stewart island; Gull and Newton rocks; Port William.............208
Group of islands and rocks adjacent to Port William and Paterson inlet; Fish rock; Horse-shoe and Half-moon bays; Paterson's inlet, with its anchorages.............209-211
Port Adventure.............211
Weka and Wreck reefs.............212
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Lords river; Port Pegasus, with its anchorages.............213,214
Wilson bay; Traps rocks; Group of islands off the S.W. side of Stewart island.............215
Port Easy; Masons bay, and adjacent dangers.............216
Codfish island, and anchorage in Sealers bay; Rugged islands; Cave point; White rocks; Black rock point; tides on the coasts of Stewart island.............217
Snares Islands.............219
CHAPTER IX.
WEST COAST OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND FROM THE WESTERN ENTRANCE OF FOVEAUX STRAIT TO CAPE FAREWELL.
General description of West Coast.............219-221
Preservation inlet, approach to; Balleny reef; Table rock.............222
Welcome road; Sunken reef; Anchorage in Cuttle cove.............223
Steep-to island, anchorage for small vessels; Isthmus Sound, Useless bay.............224
Revolver bay; Long sound; South entrance of Preservation inlet, directions for entering.............225
Chalky or Dark Cloud inlet, eastern and western passages; Landing bay; South port; North port; Edwardson and Cunaris sound; Small craft harbour islets; West Cape.............226-230
Dusky sound or bay; Anchor island and anchorage, with directions for.............230
Directions for entering Dusky sound from the southward; Pickersgill harbour, directions for.............231
Cascade cove; directions for sailing up Dusky sound.............232
Facile harbour, directions for entering; Cormorant and Goose coves; Duck cove, directions for entering; H.M.S. Acheron's anchorage.............233,234
Arm connecting Dusky and Breaksea sounds; temporary anchorages; outer coast of Resolution island; Breaksea sound, north and south channels; best anchorage.............235,236
Daggs sound, 4 fathom bank in mid channel.............237
Doubtful inlet, with its anchorages.............238-240
Thompsons sound; H.M.S. Acheron's anchorage in Deas cove.............240
Nancy sound, anchorage in Heel cove; Charles sound; Caswell sound and anchorages.............241-243
George sound and anchorage; Two Thumb and Looking Glass bays.............243, 244
Bligh sound, difficult of access to sailing vessels; Milford sound, remarkable features; Brig rock; anchorage in Anita bay and at head of Milford sound.............245, 246
Coast northward of Milford sound; Cascade point; Jackson bay, native supplies, auchorage; coast N.E. of Jackson bay.............247,248
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Open bay islets; Great southern Alps; Mount Cook.............249
Coast from Arnott point to Abut head.............249
Coast from Abut head to the N.E.; Bold head; Grey or Mawhera river.............251
Matungi Tawau point; Point Perpendicular; Five Fingers rocks; Cape Foulwind, anchorage under with southerly winds; Steeples rocks.............250
Coast from Cape Foulwind to Rocks point; Buller or Kawatiri river.............252
Heaphy or Wakapoai river; Rocks point; Kaurangi point, remarkable landslip, a good sea mark; Wanganui inlet.............253
Cape Farewell, appearance from the southward; Curious cliff; Farewell spit.............254
Table of Positions.............255-261
Magnetic Observations.............261-262
APPENDIX.
Coast from Poverty bay to Mahia peninsula, and Hawke Bay.............263-266
Winds and Weather.............266-270
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IN THIS WORK THE BEARINGS ARE ALL MAGNETIC EXCEPT "WHERE MARKED AS TRUE.
THE DISTANCES ARE EXPRESSED IN SEA MILES OF 60 TO A DEGREE OF LATITUDE.
A CABLE'S LENGTH IS SUPPOSED TO BE EQUAL TO 100 FATHOMS.
INTRODUCTION.
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NEW ZEALAND PILOT.
INTRODUCTION.
THE islands of New Zealand were discovered by the Dutch navigator Abel Tasman, in the year 1642; he remained there but a very short time, and little was known of their character and extent until the return of Captain Cook from his first voyage in 1769; during this and his two subsequent voyages, he explored and partially surveyed their general outline. 1
Later navigators, both French and English, have added to our geographical knowledge of their form and position; and since the close of the last century whalers and sealers have resorted to their harbours in order to refit their vessels, to traffic with the natives, and to procure wood and water.
The Church Missionary Society, to whose untiring zeal Great Britain is chiefly indebted for the early civilization of the natives of these islands, begun its labours among them in the year 1814: a quarter of a century later, namely in 1840, the three islands of New Zealand were proclaimed a British colony, under the names of New Munster, New Ulster, and New Leinster; the seat of government being established at Auckland, in the Hauraki gulf.
As these names however, have not come into general use, the islands will be always called in the following pages the North, the Middle, and the South, or Stewart island, the names by which they are best known among the inhabitants, and most familiar to the seaman.
They lie between the parallels of 34 1/4 deg. and 47 1/2 deg. south latitude, and the meridians of 166 1/2 deg. and 178 3/4 deg. east longitude; the North and Middle islands are by far the largest, they occupy nearly the same space, and are separated from each other by Cook strait; their extent of coast line taken together amounts to nearly 3,000 miles; the South, or Stewart island is comparatively inconsiderable in extent; it has always however, been classed as one of the principal islands, and possibly the number and excellence of its harbours may entitle it to this distinction, although its circumference does not exceed 120 miles; it is separated from the Middle island by Foveaux strait.
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NORTH ISLAND. 2--The geological structure is chiefly volcanic, and traces of recent volcanic action are to be seen in many parts; it is mountainous and well wooded, particularly in the northern districts; among the trees are the kauri, the red and white pine, and many others suitable for ship-building purposes; the kauri is confined to the north, and is seldom found far to the southward of the parallel of Auckland.
The sea worn or peninsulated coast features of the northern portion of this island, are very remarkable, for instance, the waters of Manukau harbour, on the western side, and those of Waitemata river, -- or Auckland harbour,--on the eastern, meet within a mile.
The North island embraces an extent of coast amounting to nearly 1,500 miles; its harbours cannot be said to be numerous, nor are they by any means equally distributed; by far the greater number are included between the North cape and cape Colville,--the east point of Hauraki gulf,--a distance of only 200 miles; while from cape Colville to the East cape, another distance of 200 miles, there are only the two anchorages, Mercury bay and Tauranga harbour, both difficult of access, and the former unfit for vessels of large burthen. Again, from the East cape to Port Nicholson, a distance of about 350 miles, the coast offers no secure harbour, but merely occasional anchorages with off-shore winds.
The harbours on the west coast of the North island have all sand bars at their entrances.
Proceeding northward from Port Nicholson, is the small bar harbour of Porirua, and also anchorages on the east side of Mana and Kapiti islands; between Kapiti and New Plymouth (Taranaki) are the Manawatu, Rangitiki, and Wanganui rivers, as also several smaller streams fit only for boats; they have all bars at their entrances; the three former are navigable for small vessels.
New Plymouth, 160 miles from Port Nicholson, is an open roadstead exposed to winds between N.E. and W.S.W.; northward is the river Mokau, the harbours of Kawhia, Whaingaroa, and Aotea, with the Waikato river, fit only for vessels of small tonnage. The remaining and principal ports on the west coast are Manukau, Kaipara, and Hokianga; they are spacious and magnificent harbours when once inside; and with the excellent surveys that have been now made, and due caution, their bars may be passed with safety.
Such is a general summary of the harbours of the North island, and the manner in which they are distributed; a detailed description with directions for their navigation, will be given in its proper place.
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MIDDLE ISLAND 3 --The Middle, like the North island, is chiefly of volcanic formation, but it contains a far greater extent of plain and open country, the eastern and southern portions being to a great extent available for grazing or agricultural purposes; a range of high and rugged mountains, not inaptly termed the back-bone of the island, extends from cape Farewell, the N.W. extreme, through the whole length of the island to the S.W. extreme, approaching occasionally within a few miles of the coast, varying in height from 3,000 to 7,000 feet, and attaining, between the 43 deg. and 44 deg. parallels of latitude, an elevation of 13,200 feet. This latter magnificent mountain has received the name of the illustrious navigator Cook, who first sailed along this part of the coast.
The observation with regard to the number and distribution of the harbours in the North island applies in like manner to those in the Middle island.
The north side from cape Farewell to cape Campbell, is indented with numerous deep and extensive sounds and harbours, where excellent anchorages may be obtained with little difficulty; while along the whole of the eastern coast, from cape Campbell to the Bluff harbour, an extent of nearly 500 miles, the harbours of Akaroa and Port Cooper, in Banks peninsula, and Otago (a bar harbour, though not difficult of access), are the only ports which offer shelter to the mariner.
The harbours on the south side are, the Bluff (Awarua) and New river, the former available for vessels of large tonnage, though it has a narrow entrance, with strong tides; New river is navigable for vessels drawing 14 feet, but it is necessary to be acquainted with the locality to enter with safety; both these harbours are admirably situated in connexion with the extensive tracts of grazing country, which extend from them nearly 100 miles inland:--the ports of Stewart island are also exceedingly convenient and safe, should bad weather prevent a vessel entering the Bluff harbour or New river.
From the S.W. extreme to Milford haven on the west coast, a distance of 120 miles, nature has been most bountiful but capricious in her provision of harbours, there being no less than thirteen deep inlets or sounds, some running inland a distance of 20 miles; they are however, more picturesque than useful; surrounded by high and precipitous mountains, rising almost perpendicularly from the water's edge to an elevation of from 3,000 to 5,000 feet, and clothed nearly to their summits with impenetrable forests; their depths generally exceed a hundred fathoms, and anchorage
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can rarely be obtained except at the very head of some remote cove, where the water often shoals suddenly from 50 to 5 fathoms.
The appearance of this iron-bound coast, cleft asunder as it were into harbours by some awful convulsion of nature, presents a scene truly grand and solitary;--no inhabitants but the tenants of the forest, the ka-ka-po 4 and kiwi, 5 rare and remarkable birds known in no other country; and no single spot of level land. The mariner has little inducement to seek an anchorage here, unless it be the whaler, who would take refuge from the coming gale when he has not sufficient room to keep the sea, or the sealer in the legitimate pursuit of his calling.
Fifty miles northward of Milford haven is Jackson bay, where there is anchorage with off shore winds; there is some cultivation here, and whalers occasionally touch for the sake of the precarious refreshments which the few and scattered natives are able to supply.
From Jackson bay to cape Farewell, a distance of 300 miles, is an open and exposed coast except the small inlet of Wanganui, a bar harbour, ten miles to the S.W. of the latter cape, and eligible for vessels of 10 or 12 feet draught in fine weather.
SOUTH, OR STEWART ISLAND, 6 as has been observed, is small in extent, being only 120 miles in circumference; it is mountainous and well wooded, has several excellent harbours on its eastern side, as well as some anchorages on its western; but from the prevailing westerly winds, there is always a swell on that side, and the latter should only be considered as stopping places.
This island is the resort of many whaling vessels, colonial and foreign; wood and water can be procured with little trouble, and refreshments such as they require obtained from the settlers. It may hereafter derive considerable importance from its proximity to the extensive grazing country of the southern districts of the Middle island, in consequence of the scarcity of good anchorages on that part of the coast.
Although it does not come within the scope of a work of this kind to enter into the political or statistical details of a country, the hydrography and navigation of which alone it professes to describe, yet a few brief remarks on the different settlements of a colony comparatively so little
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known as New Zealand may possibly prove useful to the seaman, and not be considered irrelevant.
New Zealand is divided into six provinces, namely--Auckland, New Plymouth, and Wellington, in the North island; Canterbury, Otago, and Nelson in the Middle island; irrespective of these, there are several ports in the North island where resident magistrates and customs' officers are established, as at Monganui in Doubtless bay, Kororarika in the Bay of Islands, and Wanganui river in Cook Strait. The government is administered by a governor-in-chief, and at each of the provinces is an elected superintendent. The islands were created into a diocese in 1841, and a college shortly after established near Auckland; in addition to the diocesan establishments, Missionary stations are formed in various parts of the islands.
AUCKLAND, the chief town and scat of government, stands on the narrow neck of land which separates the eastern from the western coasts, being built on the south bank of the Waitemata river, an arm of the Hauraki gulf, and one of the most secure harbours in New Zealand: its position in a commercial point of view appears to be most favourable, having water communication from both sides of the island--on the eastern by the Hauraki gulf, and on the western by the harbour of Manukau, the waters of which flow within half a mile of an arm of the Hauraki gulf, two miles eastward of Auckland harbour. The amount of agricultural land in the neighbourhood is also considerable; and the natural facilities for inland communication when developed are great: thus to the north, the Kaipara and Wairoa rivers lead through the kauri districts almost to the Bay of Islands--and to the south, the Waikato and Thames rivers into the heart of the island.
Auckland, established in 1840, has certainly made rapid progress; it is now a commercial town of importance, and the coasting trade is of considerable extent: it is also the head quarters of the military force stationed in the colony. The number of European inhabitants in the town and surrounding district in 1855 was about 11,000.
WELLINGTON, founded in 1839 by the New Zealand Company, was the first regular settlement; occupying the central position it does on the north shores of Cook strait, with an excellent and spacious harbour (Port Nicholson), within easy distance of all the southern settlements, and adjoining extensive pastoral and agricultural districts, it possesses great advantages, and is the commercial depot of a wide extent of country.
In the number and tonnage of the shipping which visit its port, Wellington may vie with Auckland, and it likewise enjoys a large and
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increasing coasting trade; it is also a military station; the European population in 1850 was about 5000.
The southern provinces, and Wellington in particular, appears to be subject to severe, and not unfrequent shocks of earthquakes; the first experienced by the colonists occurred in October 1848, and caused much damage to the more substantial buildings in Wellington; the last, in January 1855, though equally if not more severe in character, was not attended with so much destruction of property; happily there was but a very small loss of life on either occasion. 7
NELSON, also originally a New Zealand Company's settlement, was established in 1841, at the head of Blind bay. It has more an agricultural and pastoral character than either Auckland or Wellington, and though not possessing the advantage of a spacious port, its haven affords secure anchorage to vessels of large tonnage.
The Waimea plain in the immediate vicinity of the settlement affords about 50,000 acres of level land, a great portion of which is adapted for agricultural purposes; the Wairau valley and plains in Cook strait are also considered a part of the Nelson district, though separated from it by a range of mountains; this district contains about 250,000 acres of land suitable for agricultural and grazing purposes, and is now fully occupied for the depasturage of extensive flocks; the Wairau river, which runs through this valley and discharges itself into Cloudy bay, offers facilities for the shipment of wool, and other produce from the plains; it is navigable for several miles for large cargo boats, and is in close proximity to the excellent harbour Port Underwood.
The climate of Nelson is superior probably to any other portion of New Zealand, being singularly free from the strong winds, otherwise so common. Shocks of earthquakes have been experienced, but more subdued in character than those felt on the opposite side of Cook strait. The population of the town and surrounding district was about 3,500 in the year 1850.
CANTERBURY has been organized on special church principles, and as a settlement is of recent date, the first body of settlers having arrived in 1850; the agents of the Colonizing Association were employed for some time previously in surveying the country, and in the construction of roads, wharfs, and accommodation; from these circumstances, and the fact of several thousand emigrants having been landed almost at the same time on the field of their labours, together with the natural advan-
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tages of its position, as also other causes, gave it almost immediately a comparative position with the earliest of the settlements, and cannot fail to make it hereafter an important district in New Zealand.
The site of the principal town, Christchurch, is on the plain a few miles from the sea coast immediately northward of Banks peninsula.
This great plain extending westerly half way across the island, and bordering on the grazing lands of the Nelson district to the north, and on those of Otago to the south, contains upwards of 2,000,000 acres of grass country, a large proportion of it being considered excellent agricultural land. It has several considerable streams running through it, discharging their waters into Pegasus bay, and by the Ninety miles beach: closely adjoining Banks peninsula is the Avon or Opawaha river, on a branch of which Christchurch is built; it is navigable for large cargo boats, but the bar near Sumner is at times difficult to attempt.
Lyttleton, the sea-port town of Canterbury, is built on the north shore of Port Cooper or Cooper bay, on the N.W. side of Banks peninsula; this port is easy of access to vessels of any burthen, and notwithstanding its being partly open to the eastward, and subject to an occasional swell, it is justly considered a good and safe anchorage. The population of the plains, including the few settlers scattered over Banks peninsula, in 1850 was about 5,000. The earthquake of 1855 was felt at Canterbury.
OTAGO, on the east coast of the Middle island, 150 miles southward of Banks peninsula, is the southernmost settlement in New Zealand, it was founded in 1847 by a body of Scotch colonists in connexion with the free church: the port, though it has a bar entrance, is generally accessible, and good when inside; the climate is bracing and healthy, and from the grazing and agricultural capabilities of the adjoining country the settlement is gradually rising into importance. The chief town, Dunedin, is at the head of a sheet of water extending 11 miles from the entrance of the harbour, in a south-westerly direction; ships of large burthen proceed six miles up to Koputai bay, off the small town, Chalmers; cargoes are conveyed from thence in large boats to Dunedin. The rural districts commence seven or eight miles inland, and consist of four plains surrounded by grassy hills. Otago numbers about 1,200 settlers.
The Molyneux or Clutha river is the southern boundary of the district, where it adjoins a still more extensive level grazing country, the unsettled lands of the Bluff, bordering on Foveaux strait.
NEW PLYMOUTH (Taranaki), one of the earliest settlements, was colonized in 1841 by emigrants principally from the counties of Devon
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and Cornwall; it is situated on the west coast of the North island 14 miles northward of the noble Mount Egmont, and is considered the most fertile district in New Zealand. It is essentially an agricultural settlement, and all kinds of produce flourish in the greatest luxuriance. Corn is grown to a large extent, ground by water-mills, and exported principally to Wellington and the other settlements.
A drawback to the advancement of New Plymouth is the want of a harbour; the roadstead however, is safe in moderate weather, and with the establishment of large boats organized under the direction of a beach-master, vessels load and discharge cargo with facility and rapidity. The population of New Plymouth is about 1,200.
NATIVES.--With regard to the native population of New Zealand it is not easy to arrive at an exact calculation of their numbers, as no complete census has yet been taken. From various estimates which have been made by those best qualified to judge, and who have expended much trouble to arrive at the truth, it appears that in the year 1850 their number may be stated as not exceeding 70,000. Of these, about 67,000 occupy the North island, a large proportion being distributed over the northern part, and between the Bay of Plenty and Poverty bay on the cast coast. In the Middle island the proportion is very small, being not more than 2,600, and those greatly dispersed.
In 1840 the native population was estimated at 120,000, thus making a decrease of 4 per cent, per annum for the ten years. This decrease agrees with the calculations that were made on a small scale in and about Wellington from 1847 to 1850. The character of this interesting race is undergoing great change. Cook's account is invaluable as a record of their habits and manners as a heathen nation. They are now becoming a Christian people, with a keen appreciation of the benefits resulting from the arts of peace; they have generally learned to read and write, to cultivate wheat and European fruits, and to sedulously attend places of divine worship and schools; indeed at the present time European customs, clothes, houses, and food are being adopted by them not only near the settlements, but through the islands.
