1856 - New Zealand Pilot - CHAPTER III. THE GREAT BARRIER ISLAND... TO CAPE PALLISER.

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CHAPTER III.

THE GREAT BARRIER ISLAND--COAST FROM CAPE COLVILLE TO EAST CAPE, INCLUDING THE ISLANDS AND ROCKS IN THE BAY OF PLENTY.--EAST CAPE TO MAHIA, OR TERAKAKO PENINSULA.-- MAHIA PENINSULA TO CAPE PALLISER.

VARIATION, 1850-54,--13 1/2 deg. to 14 1/2 deg. EAST.

GREAT BARRIER ISLAND.

The Great Barrier island (Otea) is situated on the eastern side of the Hauraki gulf, and affords great protection to it from seaward. It is 21 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and 10 miles across in its widest part, which is about the centre: a range of mountains of considerable elevation extends through its whole length, almost without interruption. Mount Hobson, the highest, is clothed with trees to its summit, and rises to a peak from the central part of the island to a height of 2,330 feet. There is good pasturage for cattle in the valleys and on the slopes of the hills; on the eastern side of the mountain range is a considerable extent of plain land.

The island is in parts thickly wooded; the kauri tree flourished at one time in great abundance on the high land; all within convenient reach however has been cut down and exported, or used for shipbuilding purposes. Small vessels are built and repaired at Port Abercrombie, and in 1848 a vessel of 400 tons was built and equipped there, and carried away a cargo of copper ore from the mine which was then being worked at the northern end of the island.

The Moko Hinou and Fanal islands with their outlying dangers, the Navire and Simpson rocks, already described (see pages 10, 11), lie from 5 to 6 leagues north-westward of the north end of Great Barrier island. Little Barrier island (Houtourou) lies 8 miles westward of its central part.

The HORN ROCK lies nearly mid-channel, between the great and little Barrier islands, bearing from the S.E. end of the latter, E.S.E., 4 miles; from False head of Great Barrier island S.W., 5 miles, and from the Pirogues rocks W. 1/4 S., 7 miles, there are 12 and 13 fathoms close to it, and from 25 to 30 fathoms in the passages on either side; it breaks when there is any swell.

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WEST COAST, GREAT BARRIER ISLAND.--On the Western side are several bays and harbours, for the most part open to westerly and south-west winds, but affording excellent shelter from easterly. They are, commencing from the northward, Catherine bay, Ports Abercrombie and Fitzroy, Wangaparapara harbour, Okupu bay, and Port Tofino.

The northern extreme of the island is a high peninsula, one mile in length, connected with the main by rocks, through which the sea washes; several high pinnacle rocks stand off the extreme, from which circumstance it has been named Aiguilles, or Needles point.

From Needles point, the western coast trends S.W. by S., 5 1/2 miles, to Miner's head, the north point of Catherine bay; the summit over this head is a conical hill, resembling a beehive, and is a productive copper mine: there is a small cove immediately south of Miner's head, where coasters anchor in fine weather and ship the ore; a rock awash at high water lies in the centre of it.

CATHERINE BAY---The south head of this bay is nearly 3 miles S. by W. from Miner's head, and has a remarkable pillar-rock standing off it; there are 25 fathoms water across the entrance, and it runs to the eastward for 2 1/2 miles, narrows very rapidly, and terminates in two sandy coves, separated by a narrow peninsula projecting to the westward. On the north side of the bay, a quarter of a mile from the shore, and with a passage of 5 fathoms between, is a large flat rock, always awash; it is nearly a mile to the N.W. of the peninsula extreme at the head of the bay; there is 12 fathoms between this rock and the south shore, and good anchorage half a mile to the S.E. of it, with all winds from North round by East, to S.W., in 6 and 7 fathoms, sand and shells.

Coasters may get shelter from westerly winds in a cove on the south shore, three-quarters of a mile S.S.E. of the rock, in 5 fathoms sandy bottom, midway between the west point of the cove and the peninsula extreme; but if the wind should come from the N.W., a vessel should immediately work over to the north side of the bay and anchor under the flat rock, between it and the main in 5 fathoms. The coves at the head of the bay are shallow a short distance within the peninsula extreme.

PORT ABERCROMBIE is 1 1/2 miles south of Catherine bay. Selwyn island, 2 miles in length east and west, lies in the entrance, and is separated on its south side from the main island by Governor's passage, which is scarcely half a cable's length wide, with 10 fathoms water through it: from seaward Selwyn island would be taken for a part of the main. Immediately to the westward of Selwyn island are two smaller islets, about a cable's length apart; they are bold and steep, and the outer bluff of the

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westernmost is the remarkable headland, known as Wellington head, forming the southern entrance point of the port. N.E. by E. half a mile from this head is a reef of rocks, which must be passed to the northward; between the reef and the head is a small islet.

The entrance to Port Abercrombie is 1 1/4 miles broad, and there are 30 fathoms water across; it is entirely open to westerly winds, and the general depth of water is too great for convenient anchorage, ranging from 14 to 20 fathoms, except in Nagle cove.

NAGLE COVE is a small but secure anchorage immediately round the north head, where several coasters might lie in safety, and with room for two vessels of the size of sloops of war, when moored; a small islet lies in the centre of it. The depth of water in this cove is from 7 to 9 fathoms; here is the ship building establishment; fresh water and fuel may be obtained without difficulty, and also numerous wild goats in the neighbourood.

PORT FITZROY is the inner harbour of Port Abercrombie; it is an extensive sheet of water, well sheltered from all winds; its entrance which is two cables' length in width, with a depth of more than 20 fathoms in it, bears E.S.E. 1 1/2 miles from the north entrance point of the latter port; as this entrance is bounded by high land on either side, flaws and violent squalls of wind will generally be met with in passing through; a quarter of a mile within, the harbour opens out to a general width of nearly half a mile, and extends for nearly 3 miles to the southward, with two bays branching off to the eastward about a mile in depth; 1 1/2 miles within the entrance, the depth of water is from 17 to 14 fathoms, mud bottom:--when the narrow channel south of Selwyn island (Governor's passage) opens out, the harbour expands to a width of nearly a mile, and with this passage again shut in, there is good anchorage, borrowing on the western shore, in 6 and 7 fathoms mud bottom. There is a rock above water E. 1/2 S. half a mile from the south end of Selwyn island, with the Governor's passage just open; this latter passage is only fit for boats, and has a rock under water in the centre of its outer entrance.

FALSE OR BALD HEAD bears S. by E. 1/4 E., 3 1/4 miles from Wellington head, and much resembles it in appearance and character; False head being also the westernmost of a group of islands which lie off the main island, leaving a passago between a quarter of a mile wide in the narrowest part. Within the line of these two remarkable heads are several small scattered islands; a vessel may work freely among them as there are no dangers but what may be seen:--30 fathoms will be found two miles offshore, and 10 fathoms within half a mile of this part of the coast,

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PIG ISLANDS.--Good anchorage for small vessels may be obtained in the passage between these islands and the main, in 4 fathoms, off the pebble beach on the centre island, nearly out of the tide, and sheltered from all winds but N.W.. which latter would cause a swell to set in;-- 3 1/2 fathoms is the least water in this channel at low water, but two rocks awash lie half a cable's length off the south-eastern point of the centre island. A chain of three steep rocky islets almost connected, and between which the sea is always breaking, lie parallel with, and to the eastward of the southernmost Pig island; they extend off the point of the main island to the southward for half a mile, and a fourth of the same character projecting to the westward lies at right angles to the southern one. There is deep water between the Pig islands and this chain, and the width at the southern entrance is three cables' lengths; a rock which breaks, lies a cable's length S.E. of the fourth islet, and another which also breaks, a quarter of a mile to the eastward of the three.

To the eastward of the rocky islets the coast recedes, forming a bay, which meets within half a mile of the southern arm of Port Fitzroy, but there is no shelter or anchorage in it.

The south side of the southernmost Pig island is a steep perpendicular cliff, with a conical islet, equally inaccessible, lying immediately off it: passing outside this island, 25 fathoms will be found close-to, and Cliff island, a high steep wedge-shaped islet, with a sharp peak on its south end, will be seen bearing E. 1/4 S. 4 miles distant; Cliff island is more than a quarter of a mile from the shore, with a smaller islet within; it may be passed close on its outer side in 21 fathoms.

WANGAPARA-PARA HARBOUR lies a little more than a mile to the eastward of Cliff island, running in a N.N.W. direction 1 mile, with a width of 3 cables' length. This is a snug little anchorage with all winds, except those between S.S.E. and S.W.; in a cove immediately inside the western entrance point, is 4 1/2 fathoms, and this is the best anchorage.

PIROGUES, three bare flat-topped rocks high above water, resembling boats under sail, and covering the space of a cable's length, lie off this part of the coast, and may be seen for several miles. They lie from the western head of the south Pig island S.E. 1/2 E. 3 miles, and from Cliff islet S. W. 2 1/4 miles; deep water will be found close-to, and 22 fathoms between them and the shore.

OKUPU BAY, 1 mile south-eastward of Wangapara-para harbour, is a mile wide at the entrance, and runs to the N.E. 1 1/2 miles; there are from 9 to 7 fathoms in it, and 3 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of its head, which terminates in two sandy coves; a considerable stream emptying

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itself into the southern one. Okupu bay is entirely open to winds ranging from south to west, and therefore not recommended as an anchorage.

PORT TOFINO is the southern harbour, and bears S.S.E., 2 1/2 miles from Okupu bay: the coast line between is straight and bold, with 15 fathoms a quarter of a mile distant; a small islet lies a quarter of a mile from the shore, half a mile before reaching the north head of the port: close off the north head is a high peaked islet, and immediately over the head a remarkable conical peak.

The north and south heads lie W.N.W. and E.S.E, from each other 2 miles apart; when abreast the inner north head,--a high cliffy peninsula, --the entrance contracts to 1 1/2 miles in width, the harbour running for the same distance in a N. E. b. N. direction; three quarters of a mile inside the peninsula, a flat rock lies a quarter of a mile off the north shore, connected with it by a reef; between this rock and the head of the harbour, there is good anchorage on the north shore in 6 and 7 fathoms, with all northerly and westerly winds; from easterly or S E. gales, a cove in the S.E. corner of the bay affords excellent shelter in 4 and 5 fathoms mud bottom; this cove is immediately to the westward of a high rocky peninsula point on the south side of the harbour, and small vessels might anchor far enough in to be sheltered from S.W. winds.

Inside a line between the peninsula point on the south shore and the Flat rock on the north, the depths are from 9 to 4 fathoms, and outside it from 12 to 18 across the entrance.

Port Tofino is a favourite anchorage with the coasters; the ebb tide however, which runs to the S.E. along this side of the Great Barrier island, sets strongly out of the harbour, and a vessel working in from the southward, unless with a fresh breeze, is liable to be drifted out,-- the water being too deep to anchor--and swept through the passage between capes Barrier and Colville.

South of the southern head of Port Tofino half a mile distant, is a rock which does not always break, and between it and the shore another sunken one; 20 fathoms will be obtained a very short distance outside, these rocks.

Cape Barrier, the S.E. extreme of the island, is 2 1/2 miles E. by S. from the south point of Tofino harbour, and midway between projects what appears a peaked island, but is connected with the main by a low neck;. rocks extend a cable's length off cape Barrier, and two detached and breaking, lie 3 cables' lengths to the eastward of it, there are 28 fathoms sand bottom a mile off the cape, within that distance the bottom is rocky. Vessels rounding this cape are recommended to give it a berth of two miles.

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EAST COAST, GREAT BARRIER ISLAND, is destitute of harbours, and unless after westerly winds, there is generally a heavy swell setting on it. From cape Barrier, the coast trends north two miles; a small high steep islet lies close off the shore a mile from the cape; it then runs to the N.W. 5 miles, when there is a sandy bight but no anchorage; from this bight, the land again trends to the northward, and at a farther distance of 4 miles is the easternmost projection, a bluff rounding cape.

ARID ISLAND.--North from this eastern cape 2 miles distant, is Arid island, a bold cliffy island, with landing on its western side in fine weather; it is 1 1/2 miles long in a north and south direction, and three quarters of a mile broad; off its eastern side, and extending to the east cape, are four small conical islets, all steep-to.

The coast from the east cape recedes to the westward, and at the distance of 4 miles is a sandy bay which extends in a north and south direction two miles:--this bay is immediately abreast Catherine bay, and the width of the island here is about 2 1/2 miles, with an easy track across. There are 14 fathoms sandy bottom in the bay a mile from the beach, and 13 fathoms rocky bottom between Arid island and the east cape: a vessel might anchor in this bay with westerly winds if necessary; off its northern point are two small islets, and the coast then trends N.W. b. N. 5 miles to Aiguilles, or Needles point.

At a distance of 3 miles northward of the east cape, there are 45 fathoms mud, and to the southward there is the same depth, fine dark sand. One mile outside Arid island there are 29 fathoms, sand bottom.

TIDES.--The flood tide, entering cape Colville passage, sweeps to the N.W. along the western side of Great Barrier island as far as False head; it is there met by the flood stream which enters the Hauraki gulf from the northward, and causes during the springs confused ripplings both off False and Wellington heads. It is high water on the full and change days in Port Abercrombie at 6h 3Om, range from 4 to 10 feet.

There is very little tide felt on the outside of Great Barrier island; the flood tide runs to the northward.

COAST FROM CAPE COLVILLE TO MERCURY BAY.

CAPE COLVILLE---A sandy bay nearly a mile in extent lies on the north coast of this cape; the eastern point of this bay may be called the pitch of the cape, and a reef of rocks extends nearly three quarters of a mile to the northward of it. The tide races are strong off cape Colville, and vessels are recommended to give it a berth of 1 1/2 miles, should they pass between it and Channel islet (Takoupo), which latter

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bears from the cape N.N.W. 1/4 W. 2 3/4 miles; but unless with a commanding breeze, it is recommended to pass to the northward of Channel islet.

Cape Barrier, the S.E. extreme of Great Barrier island, bears from cape Colville N.N.E. 121/2 miles, and between these two capes is the eastern approach to the Hauraki gulf.

CUVIER ISLAND, which bears from cape Colville E.N.E. 20 miles, is 2 miles long in an east and west direction, and rises to a rather remarkable peak; it is visible from a considerable distance, and serves as a finger-post to the channel.

From cape Colville the land trends E. by N. 1/2 N. 3 miles to a similar rocky headland, W.N.W. from which, three quarters of a mile distant, is a rocky islet similar in feature to the Channel islet. The coast then runs to the south-eastward, nearly 4 miles to Charles cove, a small bay running to the S.E., but exposed and not desirable even for coasters, as from shoal water they cannot enter sufficiently far for shelter. Half a mile to the N.W. of the eastern head of Charles cove is a small islet, and the coast continues its south-easterly trend 4 miles further to a cliffy point. 3 miles S.S.E. of this cliffy point is Waikawau bay and river, both unimportant and unsheltered; three rocks above water lie half a mile off the coast, a mile south-eastward of the bay.

KENNEDY BAY (Aratuhu) is distant 4 miles from Waikawau; its entrance, which is half a mile wide, bears from the N.W. end of great Mercury island S.W. 1/4 W. 9 miles; it affords fair anchorage for small vessels in 4 and 5 fathoms, with westerly winds round from north to south. N.E. 1/2 N. from the outer S.E. cliffy point of this bay, three quarters of a mile, is a rock awash; there are 6 and 7 fathoms between it and the shore.

South-eastward of Kennedy bay are two sandy beaches, each about a mile in extent; round the cliffy south head of the southern beach is Wangapoa river, fit for coasters, having 5 feet water on its bar at low water; there is a native village inside; the south point of this river is sandy, and a sandy beach extends for 2 miles to the eastward of it.

From Wangapoa river the coast trends E.N.E. 8 miles to Tepaki point, which latter is nearly 4 miles to the north-westward of the north entrance point of Mercury bay: off this point lie the Mercury islands.

MERCURY ISLANDS (or D'Haussez group.)--This group consists of four principal, with several smaller islands, as also low reefs and rocks interspersed among them; they occupy a space of 10 miles from north to south, and the same distance from east to west.

GREAT MERCURY ISLAND (Ahou Ahou) is the largest, being 4 miles long from north to south, and nearly 3 miles broad at its southern

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part; it is steep and cliffy on the northern and eastern sides, with its highest summit towards the S.E. end. On the west side is a deep bay, with anchorage in 5 fathoms in its north-east part in fine weather; this bay renders the island very narrow in the centre.

The south end of great Mercury island is 6 miles to the northward of the north point of Mercury bay; its north end bears from Cuvier island S. b. E. 8 1/2 miles, and from the eastern part of cape Colville E. b. S. 18 miles; a rock 20 feet high lies half a mile N.E. b. N. from the N.E. point of the island.

RED MERCURY ISLAND (Wakahau) is the outer or easternmost of the group; it bears from the S.E. end of great Mercury E. b. N. 4 miles distant; it is 3 miles in circumference.

RICHARD'S ROCK, a dangerous rock, which uncovers only at low springs, lies N. 18 deg. W. or N. by W. 3/4 W. from the north cliffy point of Red Mercury island, 1 1/2 miles distant; it also bears from the S.E. end of Cuvier island S.E. b. E. ll miles, and from the N.E. end of great Mercury island E. b. N. 7 miles; this outlying danger has deep water round it, and only breaks occasionally.

Between the Great and Bed Mercury islands are the islands Kawitihu and Kora-puki, with several smaller islets and some low reefs; south of Kora-puki, nearly a mile, are two rocks awash; the passages between these islands should be avoided.

OKENA, the southernmost island, lies E. b. N. 2 1/2 miles from the north entrance point of Mercury bay. Two low reefs bearing from N. b. E. to N.E. extend from 1 to 2 1/2 miles off its north extreme; and N.W. of it are two small low islands, 20 feet high, one and 1 1/2 miles distant respectively.

KORUENGA ISLETS.--Half a mile from the entrance point of Mercury bay are the steep grey islets, Koruenga (150 feet high), the outer islet known as the Needle; and nearly a mile eastward from a point, 1 1/2 miles north of the north entrance point, is Man rock, a small round islet; mid-way between the latter and the point is a sunken rock.

MERCURY BAY.--This large inlet, 30 miles S.E. of cape Colville, is 5 miles wide at its entrance, and affords anchorage during westerly winds in sandy bays on its north and south shores. Cook's bay on the south side, at the mouth of the Oyster river is the preferable anchorage. At the head of Mercury bay, in the S.W. angle, is Mangrove river, a snug anchorage, and secure from all winds.

Mercury bay may be approached from the northward, either by passing outside the Mercury islands, and entering between them and the

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Alderman islands, or by hugging the coast; the latter is often preferred for the sake of keeping the weather shore on board.

If the outer passage is taken there are no dangers which are not visible, except Richards rock before described, which must be carefully avoided, lying as it does in the track from cape Colville; between the Mercury and Aldermen groups there are 40 fathoms' water, decreasing gradually to 20 fathoms across the entrance of Mercury bay.

The approach to Mercury bay by the inner passage is between Great Mercury island and Tepaki point, a channel 3 miles wide. Tepaki point has some small islets off it, and is the N.W. point of a sandy bay; passing it within a mile, steer rather close outside the next point which bears S.E. b. E. nearly 2 miles from it; a mile off this latter point is Man rock, and between the two midway, a sunken rock exists; the point must be therefore kept rather close on board; there are no dangers near the point, and there is a depth of 9 fathoms between it and the sunken rock.

There is also another rock nearly awash at low water, in a line between the sunken rock and the steep grey islets of Koruenga, which lie off the north entrance point of the bay. It is preferable to shape a course outside this rock awash at low water, as well as the Koruenga islets, although there is a channel of 9 fathoms within; a rock, a cable's length off the north point of Mercury bay, covered only at high water, must also be avoided.

Having passed Koruenga island, which with the islets off it are steep-to, the Twins a double conical islet 1 1/2 miles within, will be seen; this islet is also steep-to; before reaching the Twins, is Mata-pana bay, having 5 fathoms sandy bottom; off the west point of this bay a ledge of rocks extends one third of a mile towards the Twins; after this the north shore is clear to Buffalo bay.

The Middle island in Mercury bay (Motu Korure) has foul ground off its N.W. and S.E. extremes for 2 cables' lengths, but is bold to the westward.

Tower Rock (Moturoa) rises abruptly to a height of 188 feet, within a mile of the southern entrance point, and has also foul ground 2 cables' lengths round it.

Approaching Mercury bay from the southward; in the southern entrance, a rock exists, seldom showing, but which occasionally breaks; there are from 9 to 13 fathoms round it; this rock bears W.N.W. three quarters of a mile from Te-Tui or Mahurangi, the island forming the southern entrance point of the bay, and E. b. N. 1 1/2 miles from Tower rock.

The passages among these islands, about the southern entrance, should be avoided.

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There are no other dangers in Mercury bay than those which have been mentioned, until Shakspeare's cliff is passed: the soundings will be found to decrease gradually, there being 10 fathoms on either side of the Middle island, and 5 fathoms up to the Shakspeare's cliff, off which a vessel may anchor, but should not proceed higher unless intending to enter Mangrove river.

MANGROVE RIVER.--To sail into Mangrove river, run mid-way for Buffalo beach, at the head of the bay: by keeping the Twins just open of Koruenga islet bearing N.E. by N., Fly bank is avoided, and hauling up for the river steer a middle course; but avoid a spit on the beach side, by keeping a distant round red hill on with high Pah point: this spit extends off the beach just before reaching the low Pah at the entrance of the river; after passing this Pah, moor in mid-channel. Vessels undergoing repair haul alongside the builder's yard or run aground above high Pah point. The river above the high Pah, although extensive, is only navigable for boats. Fresh water can be procured round the high Pah point, and there is a carpenter's yard near the anchorage, where ships have been repaired.

OYSTER CREEK, although of considerable breadth, is hardly navigable for canoes.

TIDES.-- The tides must be considered in entering Mangrove river, and vessels should go in at last quarter flood: it would be better to be there about slack water, for there is no room to round-to, and the tides run from three to four knots. The least water in the channel going into the river at low water springs is 14 feet, at high water 21 feet. It is high water on full and change days 7h 21m; range, from 4 to 7 feet.

Mangrove river causes the tides in Mercury bay to be scarcely perceptible on the south shore, but on the north shore at springs they run 1 1/2 knots; this can be taken due advantage of in working in or out.

If on the approach of an easterly gale it is required to run for Mangrove river, it should be taken as soon as possible, for the sea rolling into the bay would break across the shoaler parts of Buffalo bay: one of the builder's men at the entrance of the river might act as pilot if required.

The northern shores of Mercury bay are wooded; the treble peak rising above Mahunganape is 1,026 feet high; the south shore is barren and uncultivated; a long flat country extends from Buffalo bay to the high ranges over Coromandel harbour.

Captain Cook's observations on Mercury bay show the remarkable changes that have taken place during the last seventy years in the formation of the coast, as well as in the decrease of the population. He

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describes and leaves a sketch of a rock connecting Mahunganape and the main, with the arch under it, and above a Pah. It still exists, and in similar shape, but has dwindled to such a small sharp rock, that where the Pah stood a man could now only stride as on a horse. Similar effects have taken place on Shakspeare's cliff, which is fast supplying rocks to the depths below; indeed, the whole coast here is more than ordinarily perforated, and one cave on the north shore was penetrated to 500 feet, having there a depth of 4 fathoms.

BAY OF PLENTY.

The Bay of Plenty is the long extent of coast comprised between Mercury bay and cape Runaway, near the East cape: a line drawn between these two points measures 120 miles, and the greatest depth of the bay from such a line is about 40 miles. There are a number of islands and detached rocks in this extensive bay; the only anchorage in it of importance, and which offers shelter for any vessel larger than a coaster, is Tauranga harbour; the coast trends from Mercury bay S.S.E. 1/2 E. towards this harbour, a distance of about 55 miles.

CASTLE ISLAND (Ngatutu), a small steep islet, lies E. by S. 1/2 S, 4 miles from the south point of Mercury bay; it is 50 feet high, white in colour, and steep-to; 39 fathoms will be found 3 cables' lengths distant.

ALDERMAN ISLANDS are a group of small islands, with off-lying rocks; they lie E. by S. 1/2 S. 14 miles from Mercury bay, and are 9 miles from the nearest part of the main land.

These islands are here noticed as being contiguous to the coast, but will be more fully described hereafter, together with the various islands in the Bay of Plenty.

TAIRUA RIVER.--Ten miles southward of Mercury bay is Tairua river, a small place available only for coasters, the intermediate coast is broken into sandy bays and cliffy points, with from 20 to 14 fathoms water a mile off shore.

SHOE ISLAND,--when seen from the N. W. exactly represents its name, even to the tie; it lies E.N.E. from the north cliffy head of Tairua, 1 1/2 miles distant, and is about a mile in circuit; half a mile eastward of it are some black rocks above water: it has a small coasters harbour, with 6 feet at the entrance.

SLIPPER ISLAND, so called from its shape, lies S.E. 4 miles from Tairua head, and 2 miles off shore; it is nearly 2 miles long N.E. and S.W., and having a reef out of water, extending from its south end 11/2

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miles to the southward. Between Slipper island and the main land, bearing S.W. 1 1/4 miles from the north end of the island, is a rock above water, 2 cables' length north of which is a sunken rock which generally breaks heavily.

There is temporary anchorage in fine weather under Slipper island, in 6 fathoms, off a sandy bay on its S.W. side.

S.S.W. 2 1/2 miles from Slipper island is the Warekawa stream, at the southern termination of a sandy beach, 2 1/2 miles long.

WHANGAMATA RIVER.--Five miles southward of Warekawa stream is Whangamata river; its north entrance point is cliffy, the south is a sandy point, with a round cliffy islet, Clarke islet, projecting from it. S.E. of this islet, at distances of half a mile and a mile, are two smaller islets, the Wedge, and Sugar Loaf. The two entrance points of the river project so as to form a bay outside, where a vessel may anchor with off-shore winds in 4 fathoms, half a mile from the shore, with the entrance open. Whangamata river bears west from the Mayor island 17 miles distant, and from the south end of Slipper island, south 8 miles; the coast is free from danger, having 30 fathoms 6 miles off shore, decreasing to 9 fathoms within a mile of it. From Whangamata river to Kati-Kati river is 15 miles, with no dangers on the coast between them.

KATI-KATI RIVER.--The entrance, which has only 1 1/2 feet on the bar, bears from Mayor island S.W. by S. 15 miles; on the northside of the river is a sandy bay 4 miles long, and the coast to the southward, between it and Tauranga harbour is a straight sandy beach 13 miles in extent.

Te-ho, the north head of Kati-Kati, is 170 feet high; two miles east of it the water shoals suddenly from 6 to 3 1/2 fathoms, and breakers extend a mile from the entrance, which appears to be choked with banks; there is, however, a narrow channel on either side of a middle ground at the entrance, with not, less than one fathom at low water, and deep inside. The Kati-Kati river expands to a considerable width within, and is connected by one of its arms with Tauranga harbour, affording a channel for boats at high water, thus forming a long sandy island between Te-ho and Mount Monganui; at low water this channel is nearly dry.

W. by S. 1/2 S. 7 1/2 miles from Te-ho head is the small island Karewha, 350 feet high: it lies 3 miles off the sandy beach, with a channel between of from 10 to 13 fathoms, sand and shells.

TAURANGA HARBOUR, which as before stated, is the only harbour on the east coast between Mercury bay and Port [Nicholson, that affords shelter in all winds for vessels of burthen, is 13 miles south-eastward of

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Kati-Kati river: its entrance lies south 19 miles from the south end of Mayor island, and W. 1/2 S. 11 miles from the south end of Motiti island.

The difficulty of entering this harbour through the deepest channel, is its somewhat tortuous course, and the liability to eddy winds on rounding Mount Monganui; the channel in one place being only half a cable's length wide; but with those winds which would make the Bay of Plenty a lee shore, Tauranga harbour is the most accessible, and when once inside there is anchorage for a fleet.

The entrance to the harbour lies north and south; the eastern head is the remarkable flat-topped hill Monganui, rising abruptly from the sandy shore to a height of 860 feet: the western entrance is formed by low undulating sand-hills, which extend 13 miles northward to Kati-Kati river; one mile north-westward of Monganui, a spit with 9 feet extends eastward from the western sandy shore for a mile; this spit generally breaks.

The approach to Tauranga harbour is remarkably distinct. Vessels bound to it from the northward should bring the south end of Mayor island to bear north, steering a south course; the high flat-topped hill of Monganui will first appear like an island: on this course, Karewha, a small rugged island, bearing from the entrance of the harbour N.N. W. 1/2 W. 6 miles, will be passed on the outside about 3 miles, in 23 fathoms, when the islet Motu-otau, and a hummocky projection from the sand, both within a mile eastward of Mount Monganui, will be seen; these are the only interruptions to an uniform sandy beach extending south-eastward 16 miles to Maketu; the soundings decrease gradually after passing Karewha island, from lo, to 6 fathoms within a mile of the heads.

The course in is S. 3/4 E. and by taking care not to bring the summit of Mount Monganui to bear to the eastward of S.S.E. 1/2 E. until within a mile of it, the spit extending off the western shore will be avoided. Monganui head is at first bold to, the channel in being one -third of a mile wide, and deepening from 4 to 7 fathoms, until reaching the south-west extreme of the mountain, from whence a stony point extends two-thirds of a cable, which covers at three quarters flood. If it is intended to haul round to the east channel, where there is an excellent anchorage under the mountain, the extreme of this spit should be seen, for the channel here, though deepest, is not much more than half a cable's length wide. After this stony point is passed Monganui is again quite steep-to, and a good anchorage is found in 6 fathoms, in the first sandy bight, a cable's length from the shore.

Vessels of any size can proceed a mile above Monganui, carrying from 5 to 7 fathoms water: it is advisable to keep about a cable's

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length off high-water mark of the left-hand shore, and the line of bank on the opposite side, which is steep-to, will almost always show distinctly. There will be seen a small rise of ground on the left-hand shore, immediately above which, the channel divides, one arm running to the westward with irregular soundings, and the other continuing towards Te-Papa, the Mission station, and gradually shoaling.

There is another anchorage near the western entrance to Tauranga harbour, which if buoyed, would be generally the most simple. It is reached by keeping on the same course, S. 3/4 E., and passing along the western shore until Monganui is shut in by the west sandy entrance point Pani-pani. In making for this anchorage, there is the White bank to be avoided; this bank is a quarter of a mile long in a north and south direction, and has 2 feet water; within it, on the west shore, there is a channel for small craft only: the bank is two-thirds of the way across from Monganui to the west beach, and its northern or outer end bears S.W. from the summit of the mountain.

To clear White bank, continue the course in, S. 3/4 E. until the extreme sand point on the right hand, (Pani-pani,) bears S.W. 1/2 W., then haul up towards it (it is steep-to), and keeping Monganui just shut in by it, an anchorage will be found in 6 fathoms sand, half a mile beyond the point, and about a quarter of a mile off shore. From this anchorage vessels can leave without detention, whereas within Monganui bluff, the prevailing wind being westerly and the channel off Stony point very narrow, a ship may be detained.

Above Te-Papa there is only a boat channel amid extensive flats, and 3 miles above, it narrows again into a small but deep river, running to the southward, which is navigable for boats for 15 miles, and by it a journey can be accomplished to the Rotorua lakes in less than two days. Te-Papa is the Protestant mission station; 1 the site is well chosen on elevated ground, on the south side of the harbour, three miles from Monganui; two miles westward of it is Otumoiti village, where there is a Roman Catholic mission establishment.

The total native population of the Tauranga district is estimated at 1,000, and large tracts of land are under cultivation; fresh water can be obtained just within Stony point in small quantities, and pigs and poultry may be had from the natives at reasonable prices.

During the twenty-three days H.M.S. Pandora was at anchor in Tauranga harbour in the month of November it blew very fresh, and almost continually from the S.W., but such strong winds were considered unusual.

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TIDES. --It is high water at full and change 7h 10m, range of tide 6 feet: the strength of the tides at springs is 3 knots; in the narrow channel at Stony point it may attain 4 knots.

From Tauranga harbour, the coast, which is a uniform sandy beach, runs E. b. S. for 15 miles to Kaituna river. The land between is covered with fern, and low, with the exception of two hill ranges of 600 and 800 feet, which rise one mile inland and extend to the S.W.;--a remarkable flat-topped range of hills about 1,000 feet high rises 10 or 12 miles inland of Tauranga, and extends in a north-westerly direction.

MOTITI ISLAND lies 4 1/2 miles off this sandy coast, there are 12 fathoms water midway between it and the shore.

KAITUNA RIVER.--Town point (Okure) which is the east head of Kaituna river, is a cliff 100 feet high; from it towards Motiti island the ground is very foul, but no rocks are known to exist more than one mile off, that would bring a ship up: the entrance of the river is very narrow, and there are only 3 feet on the bar at low water: within, it expands considerably, and is navigable for boats 8 miles up. This river carries the surplus water from the Roto-rua lakes to the sea.

Just within the entrance of Kaituna, on the S.E. side of the river, is the large Pah of Maketu. 2 W.S.W. of the river entrance, at distances of 3 and 5 miles three remarkable clumps of trees will be seen rising out of the low land.

WAIHI and MATATA RIVERS.--One mile south-eastward of Town point is Waihi river, which runs in many branches through an extensive flat.

E. by S. 1/2 S. 15 miles from the same point is the Matata river, with a straight sandy beach the whole way. There are three streams between the Waihi and Matata rivers, the principal of which is Wai-taha-nui 9 miles south-eastward of the former, fordable at low water; on its bank half a mile inland, is the conspicuous native Pah of Otamarapa.

At Matata river, coasting vessels are built. From it a range of hills runs south for 12 miles, forming the western boundary of an extensive plain which lies between that river and the Whakatane; this range of hills is only separated from the foot of Mount Edgcumbe, by the narrow valley through which the Awaote Atua river flows; the river after winding through the plain, along the eastern side of the range, becomes a branch of the Matata.

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The White cliffs coastwise north-westward of Matata rise to a height of 500 feet.

MOUNT EDGCUMBE (Putauaki) rises abruptly from the plain (of which it is the southern boundary) to the height of 2,575 feet; it is 14 miles south of Matata river, and on the summit is said to be a lake of green water, probably the old crater of a volcano.

Eastward of Matata river 13 miles, is the Whakatane river, with an extensive swamp at the back of the sand hills which skirt the coast between them, and the plain of fern and flax before mentioned as extending to the foot of Mount Edgecumbe.

WHALE ISLAND (Motu Hora) and RU-RIMA ROCKS.--Off this part of the coast is the island Motu Hora and the Ru-rima rocks; the former is N.W. by N. 5 miles from Whakatane river, and the rocks lies west from Motu Hora 4 miles; there is a passage 2 1/2 miles wide between them and the shore, with soundings varying from 9 to 17 fathoms.

WHAKATANE RIVER.--Kohi point, the N.E. point of this river, is 637 feet high, and has been covered with several pahs, the ridges and ditches of which have a curious appearance. The channel into this river is between large boulder rocks just covered at high water; these rocks are on either side of the bar, which at low water has only 2 feet on it, and 9 or 10 feet at high water springs.

Whakatane river is a favourite port for the coasting trade. Schooners reach as far as Pupuarue, the mission station, 3 miles up, from whence the river bends to the S.E., and flowing through the hill ranges at the back, takes the name of Orewera.

The Matata and Whakatane rivers are connected by the Orini, a branch of the former which flows towards the latter, and is navigable for boats; it runs parallel with the sandy beach about 1 1/2 miles from it.

OHIWA RIVER.--Seven miles eastward of Kohi point is Ohiwa river; it is broad at the entrance, being half a mile across at high water, but appears surrounded by shoals; within, it branches into three arms running through extensive mud flats; the bar is a mile to seaward.

Half a mile eastward of Ohiwa river is a wooded cliff about 500 feet high, which, as it stands alone on the coast, is a good guide to this river.

OPOTIKI RIVER.--Six miles further eastward--the stream of Waiotahi lying between--is Opotiki river; the entrance is not more than a cable's length across; both heads are sand, with no natural marks to lead in. The bar changes with freshes, and N.E. gales also affect it, the depth varying, but the river is navigable for ordinary coasters for one mile inside. Opotiki divides into two branches, half a mile within the points,

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both running to the southward nearly parallel to each other, and about 2 miles apart; the Church mission is on the western branch, 3 miles from the mouth; this river is in the depth of the Bay of Plenty; and 7 miles eastward of it, the long extent of almost straight sandy coast may be said to terminate at Opape point.

SOUNDINGS OFF COAST. -- the general depth of water from Kaituna river to this part of the coast, at 10 miles off shore, is 30 fathoms, mud bottom, and at 5 miles, from 18 to 21 fathoms, sand.

TIDES.--It is high water at Opotiki river on full and change days at 7h 0m; range 7 feet. The flood tide runs to the westward along the coast.

FEATURES OF COAST.--From Opape point the coast trends about N.N.E. 22 miles to Waikana point, and its features are strikingly changed, being now broken into numerous small sandy or shingle bays with rugged cliffy points between.

Three miles from Opape point is Pehetaire point, 800 feet high; east of which one mile, is the large double-fenced pah of Tunapapoa. The ground here shelves very gradually, having 18 fathoms, mud bottom, 5 miles from the beach.

Nearly 8 miles further eastward,--with three bays between,--is Koronohina point, 240 feet high, and round it is built the large village of Tokata. One mile south of Koronohina point is the small river Maraenui, expanding during freshes to half a mile in width, but in dry weather fordable half a mile from the mouth, its bar is 30 feet wide and close to the shore; it is a tolerable boat harbour, having 8 feet water within.

OMAIO VILLAGE.--From Koronohina point to Opokohino point and the village of Omaio is 2 1/2 miles, with a rugged coast between. The peak over Opokohino point rises to 600 feet: the village is a large one, and is built on the bank of a stream of the same name, immediately eastward of the point.

Te Kaha point is 5 miles further to the N.E.; there are two bays between, and extending off the middle point which separates them is the small peninsula of Motu-nui, where coasters haul into 5 fathoms and ride out N.E. winds. The bay to the S.W. of it is shingle, and two small rivers empty themselves into it; the larger one is the Omaio just mentioned.

TE KAHA POINT has out-lying rocks half a mile round it; from hence to Waikana point, an old whaling station, is 4 miles; midway between them and half a mile off shore is a reef of rocks just awash, to keep clear of which, steer outside the line of the points. There are high wooded ranges a short distance inland on this part of the coast, Mount Hardy, S.E. by E., 9 miles from Te Kaha, rises to a height of 3,700 feet; also a coast hill immediately east of Point Waikana, 860 feet high.

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From Waikana point to Orete, the southern point of Wangaparawa roads, is N.E., 9 miles; for the first half of the distance, as far as Kotiki point, the coast is steep and rugged, with 35 fathoms mud bottom 2 miles off shore, decreasing to 20 fathoms at the same distance towards Orete point; for the remaining distance there are shingle beaches and rocky points, with three villages, and the small stream of Rau-Ko-Kore.

Immediately west of Orete point there are sunken rocks three quarters of a mile from the shore, and the ground is everywhere foul within half a mile of the coast.

CAPE RUNAWAY, the eastern termination of the Bay of Plenty, is nearly 6 miles north-eastward of Orete point, and forms the N.E. point of Wangaparawa roadstead; there are detached rocks lying a quarter of a mile to the northward of this cape, with 20 fathoms water near to, and 6 fathoms between them and the land. E.S.E, from these rocks is another rock awash at low water: it is recommended to give this cape a good berth as the tides run strong in its vicinity and there is generally a swell.

WANGAPARAWA ROADSTEAD.--With S.E. winds there is anchorage in this roadstead off the present whaling station 2 miles S.S.E. of cape Runaway. Vessels of burthen should not approach the shore within a depth of 12 fathoms, anchoring about a mile west of the conical hill over the station, south of which a mile distant is Wangaparawa, a fordable stream, winding through a vast plain towards Hicks bay: up to this stream the coast is rocky, and it is difficult to effect a landing; beyond it there is a shingle beach 1 1/2 miles long, and then about the same extent of white cliffs 80 feet high, having terraces of fine table-land on their summits; a ledge of rocks extend nearly half a mile off the south end of these cliffs, and from thence; a sandy bay to the long low point Orete.

Upon the slightest appearance of a westerly wind, a vessel should not remain at anchor off the whaling station; and although well sheltered from a N.E. wind, it would be dangerous to attempt to ride a breeze out from that direction, for these winds always shift to the northward and westward, and would bring in such a heavy sea as to render it very difficult to gain an offing.

The anchorage under Orete point, about half a mile within it, affords excellent shelter in south-west and westerly winds, by bringing the outer extreme of the rocks extending off it to bear W. by N., and anchoring in from 10 to 7 fathoms, fine sand; a great objection, however, to the anchorage in Wangaparawa roads is, that between the changes from S.E. to westerly winds, there is frequently a calm, the westerly wind being preceded by a swell, and coming in flaws. H.M.S. Pandora was thus placed in a critical position on two occasions.

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CAPE RUNAWAY TO HICKS BAY.-- From cape Runaway, the north point of Hicks bay (Motakawa) bears east 17 miles; including the former cape, there are three points of land between, of the same formation, and therefore readily mistaken for each other, as in sloping seaward from the mountain ranges, they rise to a small peak before they again fall away in the same direction. Lottin and Midway points, the latter the eastern part of the same projection, and only 1 1/2 miles distant, have this feature; there is a small sandy bight west of the former, and one east of the latter, but neither have anchorages.

LOTTIN POINT is 9 miles east of cape Runaway; in making the land from the northward, this point of the coast may be distinguished by a peak to the southward, which will be seen much higher than the general range, and by the land being lower to the westward of Lottin than towards Hicks bay. The hills bordering the coast are steep, and clothed with thick brushwood one third of the way from their summits: their elevation varies from 1,000 to 1,500 feet high. The depth of water is considerable; should the wind fail there is no anchorage on this part of the coast, and with a constant swell setting towards it. Soundings in 20 fathoms will be obtained two cables' lengths off shore, and 40 to 50 fathoms within a mile.

HICKS BAY is nearly two miles deep by 1 1/2 miles wide, and is open to the eastward. The north point, Motakawa, is a long low rocky tongue of indurated sandstone, with a crust of scoria; the rocks off it are all visible, and there is 25 fathoms water within a cable's length of the entrance. The south point, Ko-hau or Iron point, is almost inaccessible, it forms the division between Hicks bay and the long bay of Panaruku to the southeastward.

Hicks bay affords secure anchorage in all westerly winds, from north to south; from north winds also, which are not uncommon, it is sheltered; but vessels must get well within Motakawa point; the bottom is greenish mud and good holding ground, shoaling suddenly towards the sandy beach at the head. The north and south shores are very steep, generally faced by perpendicular cliffs and out-lying rocks; the latter are within half a cable's length of high water mark.

N.E. gales, which generally spring up from the eastward and gradually freshen, give sufficient warning to weigh. No vessel should lie here with N.E. or S.E. winds:--from S.E. winds, which are much more constant on this part of the coast than in the Hauraki gulf, vessels may be sheltered by standing down towards the White cliffs, which are 5 miles south-eastward of Hicks bay, anchoring in from 9 to 12 fathoms in the Kawa-Kawa

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roadstead, 1 1/2 miles westward of the Awatere river, and within a mile of the beach.

AWATERE RIVER is 3 miles E.S.E, from the south point of Hicks bay, at the eastern extreme of the sandy bay of Panaruku. Nearly a mile to the S. W. of it is a table hill 900 feet high, and about the same distance to the S.E. is a hill of 1100 feet elevation.

Fresh water can be obtained in Hicks bay from a gully within half a mile of Motakawa point; difficulty will be experienced in landing if the wind blows fresh outside, from a swell rolling into the bay; there is also a considerable stream of fresh water 5 or 6 feet deep in the N.W. corner.

Supplies may be obtained from a native village (Wharekahika) in the S.W. nook of the bay. The natives catch the hapuka fish off Ko-hau point; just within this point is a very small but deep cove, used by the natives as their best landing place, excepting the whaling station one mile from Motakawa point, where the isolated rocks form a boat harbour.

From HICKS BAY to the EAST CAPE.--From the north point of Hicks bay to the East Cape islet, is E. by S. 3/4 S. 14 miles. The soundings five miles off this part of the coast are from 40 to 50 fathoms sand, which decrease rather gradually to 14 and 10 fathoms within a mile. Across the entrance of Hicks bay and Kawa-kawa roadstead there are from 14 to 17 fathoms, and no dangers but what are visible.

The land about the East cape has a very mountainous appearance; the summits of five distinct ranges may be seen backed by the snow-capped Ikaurangi, a most conspicuous mountain, rising to the height of 5,535 feet, 28 miles S.W. of the cape. The cape itself is of a remarkable white clayish sand, and this barren feature is continuous to Hicks bay, in steep cliffs to the westward, and in broken cliffs with valleys intervening to the southward.

EAST CAPE ISLET- -- This islet, half a mile in circuit, is a type of the cape, with but a small proportion of stunted verdure; it is steep, almost inaccessible, and bounded by rocks, with a ledge extending from its northern extreme, N.N.E. half a mile. 3 When the western points trending to Hicks bay are well open, the islet anchorage will be found in 16 fathoms, within 2 miles of it; and when the weather admits, a vessel might ride out the tide to great advantage. 4

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The water deepens again to the southward, until within a mile of the islet, when it will be found to shoal suddenly to 12 and 9 fathoms; the latter depth will be carried to within a cable's length of it. There is a channel nearly a mile wide between the cape and the islet, but as the winds here are liable to die away suddenly, leaving a vessel at the mercy of the tides and swell, it cannot be recommended.

WINDS.--The winds on either side of the East cape are frequently very different, although it may be blowing fresh. The strong westerly sea breezes which blow through the Bay of Plenty are suddenly lost when passing south of East cape islet, the distinct line of breeze being curiously depicted on the water, and a vessel may be becalmed here for hours in sight of strong breezes.

TIDES.--It is high water at 9h 0m, full and change. Northward of the East cape the flood tide sets to the westward. Southward of the East cape the flood sets in a northerly direction.

ISLANDS AND ROCKS IN BAY OF PLENTY.

The islands in the Bay of Plenty commencing from the northward are, the Alderman group, Shoe and Slipper islands, Mayor island (Tuhoua), Karewha, Motiti, Plate island (Motu Nou), Whale island (Motu Hora), and White island (Whakari).

The detached rocks are, Ru-rima near Whale island; the Astrolabe reef, and Schooner rocks, the former to the northward and the latter to the eastward of Motiti.

ALDERMAN GROUP are a cluster of basaltic islets scantily vegetated, with some out lying rocks resembling the stumps of trees; four of these islets extend in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction about 3 miles; one mile southward of this group is the largest islet, being little more than half a mile in circuit, and about 150 feet high.

Two rocks above water, and one awash, lie 2 1/2 miles N.W. by N. from the eastern islet, as also two more 1 1/2 miles W.N.W. from it; there is also a rock out of wafer, half a mile eastward of the southern islet. Including these off-lying dangers, the Alderman group occupy a space of more than 4 miles from north to south, and 3 miles from east to west, and

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may be seen from a distance of 10 to 15 miles. They are 9 miles from the nearest main land (north head of Tairoa river), with a depth of 25 fathoms in mid-channel between, but very steep-to to seaward, there being 100 fathoms less than 2 miles distant.

The eastern islet, which when seen from a distance makes like a sharp pinnacle rock, bears from the outer or Red Mercury island S.E. 3/4 S. 21 miles, and from the south point of Mercury bay E. by S. 1/2 S. 14 miles.

SHOE AND SLIPPER ISLANDS. -- South-west 7 1/4 miles from the southern Alderman is Slipper island; it is 2 1/2 miles from the main land, and has been already noticed in describing the coast: the Shoe, a small island lying 1 1/2 miles east from Tairoa river, has also been described before.

MAYOR ISLAND (Tuhoua) is S.E. 3/4 S. 19 miles from the southern Alderman, and 14 miles from the main land. Between it and the latter are soundings in 50 fathoms, and 40 fathoms within a mile of the island.

This island is 7 miles in circumference, or 2 1/4 miles long, N.W. and S.E., and 1 1/2 miles in breadth, the northern peak is 1,100 feet high: the centre is an extinct crater, open to the S.E., with stagnant water at the bottom; the western face of the island is covered with blocks of obsidian, giving it a remarkable dazzling appearance when reflecting the sun's rays. On the south-east extreme is a pah, strongly defended by a deep cut or pass, partially artificial, through which invaders must approach, as the ether sides have steep cliifs down to the water.

Immediately west of the pah is a bay, where anchorage may be had with sandy bottom; but as it is open to west and south-west winds, it would be seldom available beyond a few hours, during which a small quantity of provisions and water might be obtained: on the east side of the pah is a small cove, where coasters ride in northerly winds.

One mile east of the Pah point is a rock under water, which breaks with a moderate swell; it is half a mile from the nearest or south-east point of the island: close off the north point is a small sugar-loaf islet; the rest of the island appears perfectly clear of danger.

KAREWHA ISLAND is small, rugged, and about half a mile in circumference; it is 6 miles N.W. by N. from Monganui hill, of Tauranga harbour, and is 3 miles from the main land, with 14 fathoms water between and within a mile of the island.

MOTITI ISLAND is flat, and triangular in shape: it is 3 1/4 miles long north to south, and 1 1/2 from west to east. Its greatest elevation, 190 feet, is at the northern end, the rest of the island is not more than 100 feet above the sea. This part bears from Mayor island S.E. b. S. 19 miles, and from Monganui hill E.N.E. 11 miles.

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The distance between the south end of Motiti and the main land is 4 miles, with 12 fathoms, sand, in mid channel: there are two tidal rocks 4 feet high at low water, E. b. S. 1 1/4 miles from the south end, and another rock awash, between them and the point.

H.M.S. Pandora anchored off the north-west point of the island, half a mile from the shore, in 14 fathoms, rocky ground. The holding ground on all sides is very indifferent, and the east and south-cast sides should not be approached within two miles.

SCHOONER ROCKS, named from their likeness to a small craft at a distance, are 4 miles E.N.E. from the north-east end of Motiti island: these rocks are scarcely a cable's length in extent, of bold approach, and 62 feet high; there are soundings in 40 fathoms between them and Motiti.

ASTROLABE ROCK lies north 4 miles from the north end of Motiti island: it is detached and uncovered at low water springs; the whole extent of the danger is not more than 2 cables' lengths, extending E.N.E. and W.S.W., and would break almost always, but as it is covered at high water, in very fine westerly weather it might not show. 5

H.M.S. Pandora's boats found 20 fathoms all round the rock at 50 yards distance, and the ship passed 2 cables' lengths from it, sounding in 30 to 40 fathoms, green mud and broken shells.

At the rock the flat summit of Monganui hill is exactly on a level wilh the ridge of the table land behind it: if a vessel is inside the rock Monganui hill will appear above the distant land, and if outside it will appear below. 6

The bearings from Astrolabe rock are as follows:

Monganui hill - - - S.W. 1/2 W.
Centre of Mayor island - - N.W.
Right extreme of Motiti island - S. 1/4 W,

This neighbourhood should be avoided at night, as Motiti island is low, and there is no other land near enough to guide the mariner.

PLATE ISLAND (Motu Nou), so named from its hollowness in the centre, lies E. by N. 7 miles from the south end of Motiti, and S.E. 1/2 S. 3 1/2 miles from the Schooner rocks; between them are from 20 to 40 fathoms water.

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The island is less than half a mile in extent; the highest part is 166 feet above the sea; deep water will be found all round it, except off the south end, where there is a ledge just above water.

WHALE ISLAND (Motu Hora) lies nearly 30 miles E. by S. 1/2 S. from Motiti island; it is 5 miles N.W. by N. from Kohi point (Whakatani river), and 4 miles from the sandy shore of the main land , with a depth of 13 fathoms inside it. The island is 1,167 feet high, 1 1/2 miles in length from east to west, and half a mile from north to south; it appears bell-shaped from seaward, but on approaching there is a second peak on the west end.

H.M.S. Pandora anchored under a shingle spit off its south-west end, and there is no reason to doubt that with good ground tackle a vessel might ride out any gale here. The island being small, the back swell would be considerable, but at all events, it is the only spot affording any shelter in this portion of the Bay of Plenty, in case a vessel should be caught in a north-east wind, and not able to hold her own. At the anchorage there are 6 fathoms, but small vessels may get close in under the shingle beach: 7 abreast of the anchorage is a boiling spring. Goats are numerous, and there is some cultivated ground, but no residents. Fresh water is scarce.

RU-RIMA ROCKS are a dangerous cluster, lying to the westward of Whale island, some high above water, and others awash. Their easternmost portion are a mile in extent east and west, and half a mile north and south, the highest rock being 120 feet above the sea, and about 300 yards in circumference: this rock lies west from the north end of Whale island distant 4 miles.

Detached patches extend to the northward, westward, and to the south-westward or towards the main laud; taken together, they cover a space of nearly 4 miles from east to west, and 3 miles from north to south: the inner rocks extend to within 3 miles of the beach, the outer being 6 miles from it; both are awash, and there are 18 fathoms half a mile-north of the outer ones. Vessels passing inside should keep the shore on board, which shelves gradually; there are 11 fathoms in the deepest part of the channel: these rocks, like Whale island, retain volcanic heat.

WHITE ISLAND (Whakari), an active volcano, in latitude 37 deg. 30' N., and longitude 177 deg. 12' E., lies off the depth of the Bay of Plenty, 28 miles from the shore. It is about 3 miles in circumference, and 860 feet high; the base of the crater is 1 1/2 miles in circuit, and level with the sea; in the centre is a boiling spring about 100 yards in circumference, sending

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volumes of steam full 2,000 feet high in calm weather; round the edges of the crater are numerous small geysers, sounding like so many high pressure engines, and emitting steam with such velocity, that a stoue thrown into the vortex would immediately be shot into the air.

Here and there are lakes of sulphureous water dormant; but the whole island is heated so as to make it difficult to walk: from the edges of the crater, the scene below is only to be compared to a well-dressed meadow of gorgeous green, with meandering streams feeding the boiling cauldron; but on approaching, it is found to be the purest crystallized sulphur. No animal or insect breathes on the island, scarcely a limpet on the stones, and 200 fathoms will hardly reach the bottom within half a mile of its shores.

This island is the eastern limit of that extensive belt of subterranean agitation which extends from Mount Egmont through Tongariro, the Taupo and Roto Mahana lakes, to Whale island and the adjacent rocks Ru-rima, north of which line earthquakes are rarely felt.

THREE ROCKY ISLETS, from 80 to 150 feet above the sea, lie 3 miles N.W. b. W. from White island. H.M.S. Pandora passed between them and the island, without striking soundings, with 60 fathoms of line. Off the S.E. extreme of White island is another rugged islet about 30 feet high, half a mile from the shore; there is not the slightest appearance of any off-lying danger, and scarcely any tide is felt.

FROM EAST CAPE TO MAHIA, OR TERA-KAKO PENINSULA.

From the East cape to Open bay (Waipiro), a distance of 20 miles, the land trends S. by W.; the coast is varied by white streaked cliffs, with sandy beaches intervening, the country being more or less cultivated: the soundings 4 miles off the land are from 25 to 30 fathoms mud, and there are several rocks scattered along the shore within a mile.

Three miles south of East cape is the Wakori bluff, a cliffy projection, the land over it being from 500 to 600 feet high.

WAI-APU RIVER.--Six miles from East cape is the Wai-apu river, flowing through a sandy beach; it is a considerable stream at high water, but the freshes come down with great violence, so as to render it unsafe as an anchorage even for the smallest vessels; it takes its rise under Ikaurangi mountain, traversing the various ranges and draining a considerable extent of country.

The next point, nearly 4 miles south of this river, is Wharariki, the south point of the Awanui stream, the land over it being 950 feet high: there are rocks extending for half a mile round this point, and 3 1/2 miles south of it is the Repourua village, at the south end of a sandy bay.

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Cliffs extend for 2 miles to the southward of Repourua village, and S.E. a mile from the northern end of these cliffs; a mile also from the beach, are sunken rocks, with foul ground for half a mile outside them; between these rocks and the shore are 8 fathoms water, and there are only 10 fathoms 2 miles from the beach.

KAIMOUHU, a round head 670 feet high, 3 miles northward of Open bay, is the next headland. Sunken rocks extend off it for a mile to the eastward, and the same distance in a north and south direction; there are 4 fathoms close to them, and 17 fathoms 2 cables' lengths to the eastward.

OPEN BAY (Waipiro) will be known by Tawhiti hill, which rises 2 miles south of the southern head, and is 1,670 feet above the sea: the width of its entrance is 4 miles from north to south, and little more than 1 mile in depth; there is a considerable stream in the south-western corner of the bay, but the landing there is generally difficult.

In the middle of the bay, immediately north of the Pah, is a reef, a quarter of a mile from the beach, and close off the southern head is a small islet and some rocks.

Off the north point (Matahau) is another reef which extends northerly for nearly a mile parallel with the beach, and a quarter of a mile off shore; within this reef boats can effect a landing, and from whence produce is shipped; there are 9 fathoms in the middle of the bay in a line between the heads, and a rocky patch with 2 fathoms is said to exist in the N.W. corner; another rock is said to exist 1 mile N.E. of Matahau point, called by the natives Tokamonga. This bay can only be considered as a temporary anchorage, with off-shore winds.

From Open bay, the coast trends S. by E. for 20 miles, to Tolago bay (U-awa), the bays of Tokomarua and Waipari lying between. Some reefs lie off this part of the coast distant more than a mile, which will be noticed hereafter. The soundings are regular, in 30 fathoms mud, 5 miles off the coast, decreasing to 20 fathoms sand, within 2 miles of it.

TOKOMARUA bay is distant 3 1/2 miles from the south head of Open bay: the coast between is composed of precipitous cliffs, backed by the hill before noticed, Tawhiti, 1670 feet above the sea, and the highest on the coast. East of this hill, and half a mile from the cliffs, is the islet Mowhioaru, about 30 feet high and encircled by rocks.

Koatunui is the north cliffy head of Tokomarua bay, and Mawai, a sharp barren projection 400 feet high, with rocks extending a quarter of a mile off it,--is the south point; they are 4 miles apart, and the bay is 2 miles in depth; two small rocks close together (Hikutu,) awash at low water only, lie in the centre of it, 1 1/4 miles from the sandy beach,

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and N.W. b. N. 2 3/4f miles from Mawai, the south point; there is also a reef on the south side of the bay half a mile in extent, and one third of a mile off shore, which is visible.

There are 16 fathoms water across the entrance, and 6 fathoms inside the Hikutu rocks, which latter have 14 fathoms all round them; but no vessels except such coasters as know the channels among the rocks, should attempt this bay; it is moreover a very open anchorage.

ST. PATRICK'S COVE.--On the south side of Mawai point there is a whaling station in St- Patrick's cove, a small nook which is well sheltered for boats; it takes its name from a curious pinnacle, which seen from seaward, appears like the gigantic figure of a man with his arms folded.

WAIPARI BAY.--3 1/4 miles from Mawai point is Morahahi head, the north point of Waipari bay, which is 1 1/2 miles wide, and the same distance in depth, with sandy shores. The north point, and indeed the whole of this bay, is rocky; three quarters of a mile north-eastward of the north head is the small rocky islet of Motu-Ripa; there is a narrow channel of 5 fathoms between it and the shore. The island of Anaura forms the south head of the bay; it lies a quarter of a mile from the shore, with a boat channel between, and extends three quarters of a mile in an easterly direction; it is sterile and precipitous.

MARAU BLUFF is the next projection southward of Waipari bay; it is nearly 7 miles southward of Mawai point, and 4 1/2 miles northward of Tolago bay; a reef of rocks awash (Tokamapuhia) lies rather more than a mile eastward of this bluff, and extends in a N.N. W. and S.S.E. direction for more than half a mile.

TOLAGO BAY (U-awa) is 1 1/3 miles across, N.N.W. and S.S.E., from head to head, and about the same distance in depth; in it there is anchorage in all westerly winds ranging from north to south. The north head rises to 400 feet, and the south to 890 feet, both composed of the white marl so conspicuous along this coast.

Sporing island, three quarters of a mile long in a north and south direction, lies immediately off the south head, with a fordable depth between; it is surrounded by rocks; off the north and south ends they extend a third of a mile.

The north head of the bay has an island off it (Motu Heka) which is also surrounded by rocks, and again N.E. of the latter is a reef (Tatara) always breaking, its outer limit being 1 1/2 miles from the north head. There is a passage of more than a quarter of a mile between the reef and Motu Heka, with a depth of 11 fathoms.

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Tolago bay is clear of dangers; there are 10 fathoms, sand, between the heads, shoaling everywhere gradually, and 5 fathoms within half a mile of the sandy beach; there is one part however where an anchor will not hold well, the ground being shingle and rock; this small patch is one third the distance across from the south towards the north head, and it is better to anchor within this line. On the setting in of easterly winds, vessels should leave in good time, for the outer reef renders the beating out somewhat tedious.

COOK'S WATERING COVE.--Within the south head of Tolago bay is the cove where Cook watered, and beyond is to be seen the remarkable arch in the cliffs which he has described; several initials are cut on the rock, where the artificial well exists made by his crew; there is some difficulty in getting water during the dry season.

H.M.S. Pandora obtained provisions here better, and at a more reasonable rate, from Europeans and natives than anywhere else on this coast.

At the head of the bay is the river U-awa, with a bar of 5 feet, which is said to be constantly shifting; coasters have occasionally entered it; the principal branch has its rise to the northward.

MOTARA BLUFF and ISLET. -- Motara bluff, a cliffy point with an islet and some rocks extending a third of a mile from it, is 2 1/2 miles S.S.E. of the south head of Tolago bay, and from it the Gable-end foreland (Pari-nui-te-ra) bears S. 1/2 W. 7 miles, the coast between having rocks extending at low water half a mile off shore.

CAPE GABLE, or GABLE-END FORELAND, so called by Cook from its having a glaring triangular face, appearing like the white-washed gable-end of a house; this appearance is contracted when within 3 miles of the land, but seen from the eastward it is very prominent; there are two patches of detached rocks 1 1/2 miles north of the cape, about three quarters of a mile from the beach; and a small islet one third of a mile S.E. of it, with a reef extending half a mile in the same direction. A reef of rocks also extends south of the cape a distance of 2 miles.

From Cape Gable the coast trends S.W. b. S. for 15 miles, to Tua-hini point, the north head of Poverty bay (Turanga) ; the shore between is rugged, with sterile hills rising to a height of 6OO feet. Rocks extend a mile from the projecting points, having sandy bays within them, faced also by rocks.

POVERTY BAY (Turanga) is 5 miles in breadth from head to head, which lie N.E. and S.W. of each other, and are the southernmost white coloured projections on the coast, until Table cape (24 miles farther to the southward) is reached; the bay is 4 miles in depth.

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The south, or Young Nick's head, is 520 feet high, and has anchorage 1 1/2 miles within it off the Wero-Wero river, in 3 1/2 fathoms, half a mile from the mouth, but it is advisable not to approach the shore nearer than half a mile in entering, as the ground is very foul, changing from 8 fathoms to 9 feet; the bottom, however, is not rock, but apparently composed of vast fragments of the pipe clay cliff, which has from time to time slipped away,-- a common occurrence on this part of the coast, so liable to smart shocks of earthquake, and upon which the sea is rapidly advancing.

The north head (Tua-hini) has also foul rocky ground, extending to the south-east for 2 miles; at this distance H.M.S. Pandora shoaled suddenly from 16 to 8 fathoms; the summit of Tua-hini is 260 feet above the sea.

On the north side of the bay, a mile inside the outer point, is Tua Motu, which appears an island, but is joined to the main at low water; off this peninsula a reef extends 2 cables' lengths to the southward, and between it and Turanga-nui river are rocks half a mile from the shore, the outer ones of which are covered or awash at low water; with these exceptions, the bay is free from dangers, and a vessel may anchor according to circumstances; the bottom is sand, and the soundings decrease gradually from 12 fathoms across the entrance to 5 fathoms, half a mile from the beach.

It is recommended to weigh on any appearance of a breeze from the south-east, for from this quarter it freshens suddenly, and several vessels have been lost by waiting too long.

RIVERS IN POVERTY BAY. -- There are three small rivers in the bay, Turanga-nui, Koputetea, and Wero-Wero; the first named, is celebrated as the place where Cook first landed in New Zealand; from the untoward circumstances attending his landing, and unsuccessful attempts to obtain provisions, he named the bay Poverty.

Turanga-nui river is 2 miles westward of Tua-Motu peninsula, and is the northern termination of a sandy beach extending 8 miles from the south head; it has about a fathom at the entrance at low water, and coasting craft cross the bar at high water, when the channel within is a cable's length broad. Half a mile above the bar, the river branches off to the N.W. and N.N.E., the former being the largest branch; at the fork there are 10 feet at high water.

Koputetea river has about the same water on the bar as Turanga-nui, but is less easy to define; its entrance is S.W. 2 3/4 miles from Young Nick's head; it is a much larger river than Turanga-nui, and a fine sheet of water when the tide is in; and flows through one of the richest valleys in New Zealand, where about 30,000 acres of level land and excellent soil are

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partially cultivated, affording pasturage to a great extent, being clothed with natural grass.

The Church Mission station is on the west bank, three miles from the river's mouth.

Wero-Wero river is only fit for boats; it is 1 1/2 miles within Young Nick's head, and runs for a mile parallel with the beach, stretching through the Koputetea plain; at high water a branch of it is connected near the mouth with the Koputea river.

TIDES.--The flood tide outside sets to the northward, the ebb to the southward, and their influence extends 10 miles from the shore; within Poverty bay the tide is scarcely perceptible. At Wero-Wero river the time of high water at full and change is 6h 5m, range of tide 6 feet.

From Young Nick's head to Table cape, the eastern head of Mahia, or Tera-kako peninsula, is S.S.E. 24 miles, the coast between is steep and wooded, and there are no dangers more than a mile off the shore. 8

ARIEL ROCKS, a very dangerous outlying reef, which breaks only in heavy seas, bears E. 1/2 N., and is 10 miles distant from Tua-hini point, the north head of Poverty bay; at low water spring tides, it has on the shoalest part a depth of 12 feet; this dangerous portion is less than half a mile in extent in a north and south direction.

H.M.S. Pandora found it steep-to, shoaling at one cast from 23 to 6 fathoms within half a cable of the shoalest part; there are 31 fathoms green mud, between it and the shore, and 20 fathoms one mile to the northward; in this direction it shoals more gradually than from the other sides. The vicinity of this reef may be known by the bottom being composed of coarse gravel and stones within a radius of two miles; if the soundings exceed 35 fathoms a vessel is to the eastward of the reef.

The following are the bearings from the rock:--Cape Gable (a conspicuous white cliff), N. by W. 1/4 W. 12 miles. Tua-hini (north head of Poverty bay), W. 1/2 S. 10 miles. False Gable (the nearest point of land), W. by N. 1/2 N. 8 1/2 miles.

The distance from the shore will render clearing marks available only in clear weather. Tua Motu peninsula, in Poverty bay, is shut in when to the northward of the reef; when Tua Motu just opens like an island a vessel will be half a mile north of it; also the top of the White Gable is nearly on a level with the land behind it, when at the reef.

During three days that H.M.S. Pandora was surveying in the vicinity of these rocks, they could not be distinguished until close to their position,

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and though the wind during the greater part of that time blew fresh from the N.E., yet there was no break, but after a S.E. gale they were seen to break heavily from the shore.

MAHIA, or TERA-KAKO PENINSULA 9 forms the northern head of Hawke bay; it is 10 miles long in a north and south direction, and nearly 8 miles east and west, in its widest part. The peninsula is connected with the main by a sandy neck 1 1/2 miles in length and three quarters of a mile broad; a river flows through this sandy neck and runs into the sea on the eastern side, this when it is swollen gives Mahia the appearance of an island; on the outside of this neck, which is W.N.W., 6 miles from Table cape, there is anchorage with S.W. winds a mile from the beach.

From Table cape the coast of the peninsula trends S.S.W, for 8 miles to its extreme point. A rock is said to exist midway between these two points, 1 1/2 miles from the land.

PORTLAND ISLAND. 10--South of Mahia peninsula extreme 1 1/2 miles is Portland island (Te Houra); it is 1 1/2 miles in length in a N.N.E. and S.S.W, direction, of moderate height, and has a flat summit with a few bushes on it. The island is steep on all sides, and was named by Cook from its resemblance to the well-known headland in the English channel; a rock is said to exist 4 1/2 miles south of its southern point, but neither the position of it, or the one before mentioned south of the Table cape, has yet been ascertained by the surveys in progress.

From the preceding remarks, it will be noticed that the east coast of the North island from the East cape to Hawke bay, a distance of nearly one hundred miles, has only two roadsteads for ships of burthen, viz., Poverty and Tolago bays; and although coasters do sometimes anchor in Open and Tokomara bays, yet these can only be approached in fine weather, and do not deserve the name of anchorages; also that the coast has many dangers within a league of it, and that even in fine weather and with westerly winds there are few spots where cargo can be shipped by vessels anchoring cautiously off the coast.

There are indeed few places, if any, where even coasting vessels would be safe in a gale, for the rivers are only accessible in fine weather at the proper time of tide.

Besides carefully avoiding the Ariel rocks, and the off-lying dangers from the Mahia peninsula, a stranger should not approach the coast thus described nearer than a league; the position of a vessel can be well determined by the soundings, which will be found to decrease from about 40

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fathoms, two leagues offshore, to 24 fathoms at one league off; the bottom being green mud outside 24 fathoms, and fine sand within that depth.

Advantage can be also taken by standing off or in shore according to the tide, which is felt to a distance of 15 miles from the coast; within 4 miles of the shore the springs run 2 knots and the neaps 1 knot an hour; near the projecting headlands they will be found more rapid, and either tide, striking against a point, has a tendency to set off it.

FROM MAHIA OR TERA-KAKO PENINSULA TO CAPE PALLISER.

The coast from Mahia peninsula to cape Palliser, a distance of 180 miles, is still more destitute of shelter than that just described; and with the exception of a few fine-weather anchorages in Hawke bay, there may be said to be none along this whole extent of coast line.

HAWKE BAY 11, is an extensive inlet, entirely open to S.E. winds, and affording no shelter beyond temporary anchorage in fine weather. From Mahia peninsula, its northern limit, to cape Kidnappers, its southern extreme, is a distance of 42 miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction nearly, and its depth is 22 miles; with north-easterly or easterly winds there is anchorage on the west side of the peninsula to the northward of a low point, 6 miles north of the extreme, half a mile off shore; and also in the bay on the western side of the sandy neck; a sandy beach then extends along the north side of the bay for 17 miles to the westward, at which distance is the Wairoa river, eligible for coasters in fine weather; this beach farther extends 5 miles beyond the river, when the coast becomes cliffy with small sandy bays between.

The small river Mohaka, is 13 miles to the south-westward of the Wairoa river; its eastern head is cliffy; 8 miles farther to the southward is a small cove, which affords shelter for boats. The small rocky promontory of Wakari is 8 miles from this cove, and nearly 20 miles N. W. 1/2 N. from cape Kidnappers, and is the north extreme of a sandy bay 8 miles in extent north and south; there are 6 and 7 fathoms water just to the westward of it, off the mouth of a small river.

At the southern termination of this sandy bay is Ahuriri harbour and river; its south head is a cliffy bluff, which rising out of the low land, appears like an island; there is anchorage in 4 fathoms off the mouth of this river in westerly or southerly winds, and when inside it expands into a considerable sheet of water; a sunken rock is said to exist 3 miles N.E. from the cliffy bluff.

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From Ahuriri harbour a sandy beach extends to the southward for 10 miles, with three streams about the central part.

CAPE KIDNAPPERS projects 3 miles to the eastward; this is a high point with white cliffs (argillaceous clay) on either side of it, and two remarkable white rocks off the extreme; there is anchorage in southwesterly winds in a bight immediately within the extreme point, nearly a mile from the two rocks. So far as Hawke bay has been examined there is deep water all over it, with from 40 to 50 fathoms across the entrance, a general depth of 20 to 30 inside, and 7 to 12 fathoms 1 1/2 miles from the beach.

The following remarks on Hawke bay, by Commander Drury, of H.M.S. Pandora, are extracted from the New Zealand Government Gazette of July 5, 1855:--

We arrived in Hawke bay, anchoring N. 77 deg. W. 1 1/2 miles from the Bluff; we remained at the roadstead off Ahuriri ten days, and at one time I was in great hopes of getting into the harbour, having found it deeper than usually reported. There was a depth of 12 1/2 feet at high water, at the shoalest point, which was only just below our draught of water. The tides are rapid, but by leaving the roadstead at or near slack high water, there is little difficulty in entering.

This harbour is adapted to vessels drawing 10 or 11 feet water, and is certainly the only harbour deserving the name between Tauranga and Wellington (Port Nicholson), and within it is capable of considerable improvement.

DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING.--The present leading marks may not always be correct; it is said the Rangatira bank is affected by the freshets. On entering or leaving the harbour it must be remarked, that the flood sets across the entrance to the eastward; therefore, on passing the point, steer for Meanee point, and the deepest anchorage is immediately inside it. On leaving the harbour it must be remembered, the ebb sets to the westward, directly towards the Rangatira bank. The flood stream runs in nearly two hours after high water to cover the extensive flats. The strength of the tide at the entrance is 6 to 7 knots. The proper time to approach is when it is high water by the beach, there will then be sufficient stream to enter. Vessels drawing 6 to 7 feet water should anchor off M'Kain's hotel, as there is less tide there. High water, full and change, 7h 50m, rise and fall, 3 feet.

Ahuriri Roadstead is very good, and what are here termed the black North-easters give ample warning of approach.

There is a reef bearing N. 19 deg. E., 2 miles from Ahuriri Bluff, having 8 feet water, and we found the bottom uneven north of these rocks.

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The other anchorages in Hawke bay are,--Long point, in the north bight of the bay, and cape Kidnapper at the south. The former affords shelter during N.E. and S.E. gales, and the latter in south-easterly, and the east side of the peninsula from the south-west.

The climate of Hawke bay is, I am inclined to believe, the best in New Zealand,--alike exempt from the humidity of Auckland, and the fiery breezes of Wellington. The inland navigation near Ahuriri is a great natural acquisition to this province, besides the Ahuriri.

The town of Napier and buildings round the port are rapidly advancing, and the communication with the settlements of the interior being so simple, both by land and water, this fertile district will become of great importance, and the exports must soon be considerable.

The natives of this district appear very frank and obliging in their disposition; they are generally better dressed, and more advanced in civilization and obedience to English authority, than any of the tribes I have met on this island.

The river Tuki-Tuki disembogues 7 miles to the southward of Ahuriri, having a changeable bar, but it is navigable for 12 miles for boats. The river Nga-Ra-Ruro runs from the eastward, intersecting the province, and is navigable many miles into the interior.

We found the Wairoa, a considerable river, had changed its mouth within the last three years, having shifted 1 1/2 miles to the eastward. The entrance is very difficult, but within it has a depth of 12 to 14 feet, and navigable for boats 12 miles."

CAPE KIDNAPPERS TO CAPE TURNAGAIN. -- From cape Kidnappers to cape Turnagain, a distance of 48 miles, the trend of the coast is S. 1/2 W., offering no remarkable or striking feature; a sandy beach extends 9 miles from the point, and the small island Motu-Kura (or Bare island) l 1/4 miles from the coast is 12 miles from it; the Capstan rock, above water, lies three quarters of a mile S.W. of Bare island.

Southward of Bare island the coast is rocky, with some detached patches lying nearly a mile off shore; 9 miles distant from it is the Manawarakau river and Pah, with a sheep station near; a reef of rocks above water lies immediately off the mouth of this river, extending north and south for a mile; 7 miles south of Manawarakau is Tungara cove where there is anchorage for coasters, but it is considered dangerous, and seldom resorted to; a reef of rocks extends off each point of this cove, and it is rocky within.

Oputu or Shoal bay, a slight indentation of the coast, commences 3 miles to the southward; and its southern extreme, which is 7 miles from Tungara cove, is a cliffy point, with rocks extending half a mile from

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the shore, extending also for a distance of 3 miles to the northward; from this cliffy point a sandy bay, backed by sand hills, extends for 4 miles to the southward, a small islet, lying half a mile off the shore; at the southern end of this beach is the river Parangaha and 7 miles further south is Te-Poro-Poro, or cape Turnagain of Cook.

CAPE TURNAGAIN is a well-marked cliffy projection, making as a white bluff from the northward, and as table-land from the southward; the coast to the southward of it recedes for some miles to the westward, forming a bay open to the S.E; another hill, the Chalk Nipple, so called from its white appearance, rises immediately over the coast 3 miles to the northward of the cape; there is a mile of beach close to the north of the cape, where boats may land in moderate weather.

From cape Turnagain the direction of the coast is S.S.W, for 40 miles to Castle point; the shore is frequently faced with rocks; the hills slope gradually, there are small wooded valleys, but the country generally is hilly, (from 500 to 1,200 feet,) apparently covered with natural grass; no dangers are known or believed to exist, more than 1 1/2 miles from the coast, but the observation, that no stranger should approach the land to the northward of Hawke bay within a league, is equally applicable to the coast between it and cape Palliser. Soundings in 30 fathoms mud, were obtained 3 miles from the shore, and 60 fathoms at 6 miles; at a distance of 13 miles from cape Turnagain the soundings are 100 fathoms, sand bottom.

CASTLE POINT is a rock nearly detached from the shore, with a sandy bay 2 miles long to the northward; from the north it presents the appearance of a square tower at the extreme of a low point:--10 miles from the shore, there is 60 to 70 fathoms; between this and 12 miles distant, it shelves into 200 fathoms green mud.

FLAT POINT.--18 miles S.S.W, of Castle point is Flat point, a low projection with a sandy tongue running a short distance out. and a rocky ledge extending one mile from it, to the northward.

The coast for a distance of 4 leagues S. W. of Flat point is fronted with outlying sunken rocks extending in places 1 1/2 miles from the shore: a small cluster above water (Kahau) lies one mile off shore, with a depth of 49 fathoms 1 1/2 miles to seaward; they are distant 13 miles from Flat point, and 29 from cape Palliser.

From Flat point to cape Palliser is S.W. 1/2 S. 42 miles; the coast line is itself low, formed of sand and shingle beaches with rocky points, and ledges extending in places a mile off shore; the depth of water being 48 and 50 fathoms, 2 1/2 miles from the land; the ranges of hills, which generally run parallel with the coast a short distance inland, are moderately high, (the seaboard presenting a succession of level table steppes)

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and increase in elevation as cape Palliser is approached, where a high steep and sterile mountain range within two miles of the extreme of the cape, attains an elevation of 2,850 feet.

CAPE PALLISER is the south extreme of the North island, and the south-east entrance point to Cook strait; it forms a remarkable bold-looking promontory from a distance, but as it is approached, two low shelving points will be seen to extend from it to the southward; a reef, partly above water and awash, runs half a mile from the eastern of these two points, and the Black rocks, 15 feet above water, extend one mile from the western; strong tide ripplings also extend 1 1/2 miles from the Cape, and vessels should not round it within two miles, even in fine weather; at this distance will be found 35 fathoms, sand and shells.