1856 - New Zealand Pilot - CHAPTER VI. FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN TO NEW PLYMOUTH.

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CHAPTER VI.

FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN TO NEW PLYMOUTH.

VARIATION, 1850-54,--13 deg. to 15 deg. East.

IN completing the description of the west coast of the North island, it is considered desirable to commence at Cape Maria Van Diemen, the N.W. cape, and proceed southward; in preference to following the coast northward from New Plymouth, as vessels from Auckland or the harbours on the east coast, bound for the western ports, would unquestionably adopt the northern route; while those from the westward, bound to Hokianga river or Kiapara harbour, frequently sight the Three Kings islands and run down the coast for those ports; this arrangement will, therefore, be obviously more convenient.

CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN, is lower than the land east of it, it projects from a sandy isthmus, and makes like an island 100 feet high, and bears from the south-western extreme of the Three Kings islands E. by S. 3/4 S. distant 38 miles. A small double islet lies immediately to the N.W. of the cape, but with no channel between.

The tides off this cape are rapid and races frequent, it is therefore advisable to give the coast a berth of 3 to 4 miles; indeed, the tidal influence here extends to the Three Kings: along the north coast the flood sets to the westward, and on the west coast to the southward; 1 1/2 miles from the shore the tides are generally twice as strong as 3 miles off.

PANDORA BANK, 6 miles S.S.W. 1/2 W. of Cape Maria Van Diemen, frequently breaks heavily, and sometimes appears like a race, but not less than 5 fathoms has been found; the shoal part covers two square miles, and is of hard sand, covered with sea-weed. Immediately seaward there is 20 fathoms, and between it and the shore is a channel with a depth of 13 fathoms.

COAST TO REEF POINT. --6 miles S.E. of cape Maria Van Diemen commences the hard sandy beach, which extends in the same direction nearly 40 miles to Ahaipaira; the only interruptions along its whole extent being the small rocky islet Motu Pea, and the Monganui rocks; the former, 11 miles from the cape, is about half a mile from the beach and 100 feet high; although there is an appearance of deep water within Motu Pea, the constant rollers would prevent even a coasting vessel taking the channel.

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Monganui, a fishing retreat of the natives, is a rocky projection 15 or 20 feet above the level of the sea, connected with the sands at low water, and is 6 1/2 miles distant from Motu Pea; a range of white sand hills, varying from 100 to 300 feet in height, extends along this coast a short distance within the beach line; at a distance of 5 miles from the shore the soundings are from 20 to 25 fathoms grey sand.

AHAIPARA ROADSTEAD, at the extreme of the sandy beach just mentioned, affords no shelter from westerly winds, but in fine weather vessels of any tonnage could ship the produce of the Victoria plains and of the fertile country at the foot of the mountain range, extending from Reef point to the eastward, in the small nook within, (Ongonga) boats can ship cargo. The approach is clear, and the anchorage is after bringing Reef point (Tau-roa) to bear S.W.: the soundings will be found to decrease gradually from 10 fathoms, the bottom fine sand. S.W. and S.E. winds are favourable for lying at this anchorage; it is also sheltered from N.E., but as the gales from this quarter veer to N.W., it would not be prudent to remain.

REEF POINT is a long table projection, sloping down from hills chequered with sand; a spit of sand which generally breaks extends for half a mile to the westward; a mile west of the point 16 fathoms will be found; the tide, which runs from 2 to 3 knots, is imperceptible in Ahaipara bay; 1 1/2 miles south of Reef point is a remarkable sandy ravine; the sea is said to be encroaching fast on this part of the coast.

FALSE HOKIANGA (Herekino) 1 is 9 miles south of Reef point, and 16 miles northward of Hokianga river; it is a small and dangerous harbour, with a swell always setting on the beach; no vessel drawing over 6 feet water should approach it, and then only in fine weather; on the north entrance are sand hills chequered with green patches, and from the south head bare hills rise suddenly to an elevation of 800 feet and continue the same height to Wangape, with a table summit and deep ravines showing to seaward.

WANGAPE is a small port 5 miles to the southward of False Hokianga, and is used by small vessels in fine weather; it has no bar, but there is a sunken rock in the channel, which is less than a quarter of a mile in width; the tides here are strong and set across from point to point, so that a vessel entering with a strong flood would inevitably be carried on shore; there is a depth of 5 fathoms in the channel, the northern side of which is the best; thero is also a sunken rock (Maniawa) said to exist at the entrance.

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The heads of Wangape are bold, and the land on either side is high, and continues so for 4 miles to the southward of the entrance, when the range terminates and is succeeded by a sandy beach, backed by sand hills varying from 100 to 300 feet high, and which extend nearly 8 miles to the north head of Hokianga river.

HOKIANGA RIVER 2 is the northernmost port on the west coast, accessible to ships of burthen. It flows in a north easterly direction for 20 miles between the wooded ranges of Waima and Punghuru, whose steep sides approach the banks at distances varying from four to ten miles, supplying the main river by large tributaries winding through valleys of great capabilities. These mountain ranges are from 1,500 to 2,000 feet in height; Maungataniwa, at the head of Maungamuka river, was found to be elevated 2,150 feet, probably the highest mountain north of the Hauraki gulf. Hokianga river is navigable, and has few obstructions for a distance of 15 miles from the heads, the depth in the channel varying from 4 to 26 fathoms, mud and sand, and the water is salt to its source.

The BAR --The old plans show three distinct channels over the bar, the north, middle, and south-east: the pilot who has been here 23 years, believed in the existence of these channels, though he only used the middle one. The result however of the late survey by H.M.S. Pandora proves, that the bar extends direct across, from N. W. to S.E. for two miles, at the distance of 1 3/4 miles from the heads, and must be crossed in 16 feet at low water springs: it is composed of dark green sand, with surface inequalities, and is a quarter of a mile in width.

The marks for crossing in the deepest water, and over the narrowest part of the bar, have been judiciously placed by the pilot, Mr. Martin: these marks are his white cottage, which stands in the bay, a mile inside the South head, kept in a line, or a little open to the northward of that head. The pilot does not remember any alteration n the appearance of the bar, although it is possible that the heavy floods and rapid tides might produce a change in these sands.

DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING --In approaching Hokianga river, a stranger should be confident of the latitude, for reason of the similarity which exists in some points, between it and the small ports to the northward, and the possibility of being thus mistaken in thick weather, as in the case of H.M.S. Osprey; neither should it be attempted unless with fine weather and a leading wind. There is a signal man stationed on the south head who directs vessels in by a moveable flag staff and code of signals.--See page 158.

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The entrance may be known by the north head of the river being the southern termination of a sandy range which extends eight miles to the northward, and is from 100 to 300 feet in height, while to the southward of it no sand hills are to be seen for a distance of 17 miles, or until passing Monganui bluff, when the sand again commences.

Monganui bluff is high land (2,046 feet), falling abruptly to the water 17 miles southward of Hokianga river, and on a tolerably clear day will be seen from a vessel coming from the northward or westward long before reaching the entrance of the port. There is no high land like it on the coast, and it is a good mark to make at any time, for vessels approaching Hokianga or Kaipara.

A constant swell from the westward breaks heavily on the beach, and the bar is almost always breaking; vessels should, therefore, be prepared for shipping a sea; three rollers generally are experienced before the bar is passed.

A vessel should be off the entrance, so as to carry the flood into the harbour; and about half-flood is the best time for crossing; should the first of the ebb have made, and the bar appear passable, it must still be borne in mind that there is a tide of 5 knots to contend against, with the chance of the wind failing, as also that the anchorage between the bar and the heads is bad.

In approaching Hokianga river from the north-west, and when within 4 or 5 miles of the heads, keep to the eastward until Martin's white cottage, which may be seen at a distance of 5 miles, is brought on with the South head, bearing E. b. N. 3/4 N., then stand in, keeping this cottage a cable's length open of the head, which will lead for the deepest water. The South head is 160 feet high and has a signal staff on it.

The outer edge of the bar is 1 3/4 miles from the heads, and it will be found to shoal from 8 fathoms to 3 1/2 at one cast. Monganui bluff is then in one with a low point about 6 miles distant, and the shoalest water is when the bluff is in a line with a nearer point: when the three points are in one, the bar is crossed and the water deepens.

At the entrance between the heads there is a depth of 20 fathoms, but there are two dangers on the north side of the channel which narrow it considerably; these are the Nine feet rocks, and a patch of one fathom off the north head: by keeping the south head on board and the cliffs extending from it to Martin's bay just open of the South head, these dangers will be avoided.

It must be remarked that the ebb sets directly on the south head spit, and in going out due allowance must be made for clearing it: several small vessels have drifted on this spit during light winds.

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MARTIN BAY.--This bay is just within the south head, and has no dangers, the holding ground is good, but there is generally a considerable swell; it is therefore better in entering, not to anchor until passing the middle ground. Vessels outward bound anchor here to wait an opportunity of crossing the bar.

MIDDLE GROUND. --A good channel exists either side of the middle ground, but the eastern channel is the broadest.

WAIROHEA RIVER.--There is foul ground off this river, which frequently causes a race, and the outer ledge is only dry at springs.

After passing the south head, and when it is brought to bear S.S.W., steer N.E. until Young's point bears N. 1/2 E., then steer for that point until midway between it and the low sandy point Rangi; then edge over to the westward to avoid the bank south of Young's point, but do not stand so far as to shut the north head in with Rangi point.

After passing Youngs point, steer for the next point on the same side, (Kowwarri): abreast Mahenna island 4 fathoms will be found, the least water: keep a cable's length from Kowwarri point, which has rocks off it covered at half tide; when abreast Kowwarri, steer over for Tekaraka point to avoid an extensive flat between the former and Onok point, but when nearing Tekaraka, edge away for Direction head, not approaching within a cable's length of Tekaraka, as rocks dry off it to the southward at low water.

From Direction head, the river course in mid-channel is N.E. b. E.; there are no dangers but the low water edges of the banks, which extend a short distance without the line of the points.

From Mutawhera point, which is steep-to, keep Hurds point (a long, low point) on the starboard bow, to avoid an extensive fat formed by the Omanai river: from abreast Hurds point, steer for the north point of the Narrows.

NARROWS.--To pass through the Narrows, which are deep, a vessel should have a commanding breeze or slack water, as the tides, which occasionally run 4 knots, set from point to point.

The only danger in the Narrows is the Kohatutakataka rock, which is just covered at high water, and extends one third of the way across from the north point of the upper end of the Narrows: it is steep-to from the southward, but there is no channel between it and the north shore.

From the Narrows, give the north bank a fair berth, steering for Motuti, a low sandy islet: below this islet, and abreast Kokohu (Mr. Russel's station), is as high as vessels of burthen can proceed. The width of the deep water channel here is 2 cables' lengths, and the anchorage is in 4 to 5 fathoms.

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In working down the river, as a general rule, a vessel should not stand within the line of the points, as the mud flats in all the bights, however deep, extend from point to point, and are invariably steep-to: the Narrows should be passed with a leading wind, unless a pilot understanding the set of the tides, should undertake to work a smart vessel through.

CREEKS.--There are four extensive salt-water creeks on the north bank of the river, within 7 miles of the heads, meandering through miles of mangroves, and terminating near the foot of the Punghuru mountains: they are the Pupuwae, Ohihupa, Punehu, and Waiho.

PUPUWAE CREEK is all dry at low water, and one mile from the mouth expands into an extensive mangrove flat; a small fresh-water stream winds among three remarkable peaks, with kauri trees on their slopes.

Above this valley is the termination inland of the great sandy hill range, and on their summit is a fresh-water lake, about three-quarters of a mile in circumference. It appeared to be deep, was covered with wild fowl, and is about 600 feet above the level of the sea: several fish were seen jumping, apparently about a quarter of a pound in weight; the natives call them Nioioni, described as a fish of many colours.

OHIHUPA, the next creek, is also dry at low water; at Mata point, just to the southward of the creek, is an Englishman's house (Munro), the country between these creeks to the hills is excellent soil.

PUNEHU creek runs 2 1/2 miles, navigable for boats at half tide; the south bank is inhabited by natives, and well cultivated; the north shore is thickly wooded with kauri and totara; at the head is another native village.

WAIHO CREEK, 7 miles from the heads, is similar to Punehu; the mangroves, through which it winds, extend across half a mile: the south bank is partially cultivated, and at the head is an extensive valley, clear of timber and uncultivated, terminating at the foot of the Punghuru range. It is said that small schooners have been some distance up, if so, they must ground on the mud at low water; from Wakarapa, the creek winds to the northward for a mile, where the water is nearly fresh; at the head is a deserted village, Wakarapa.

MOTUTE CREEK, under Direction head, is a small but useful creek, as much timber is floated down it from the forests; it extends about 3 miles in a N.N.W. direction.

TRIBUTARY RIVERS.--The tributary streams which empty themselves into the Hokianga river on the north side are, the Motukaraka, Maungamuka, Orewa, and Hauraki, the latter a continuation of the Hokianga itself; those on the south-side are, the Waima, Omanai, and Wirinaki.

These rivers can scarcely be considered navigable for vessels drawing more than 6 feet, and the channels are generally narrow; about half way

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from their source the water is fresh at half tide. Their entrances are lined with mangroves for 2 or 3 miles, when the shores approach, wooded and steep, until the boughs reach across: in some, the rapids are strong after the rains.

The bed of Hokianga river is for the most part soft mud, except near the mouth, where there is the Middle ground, a hard sand bank, and for the first 5 miles the bottom has a sandy superficies, caused by the great sand drift from the westward, which has also impregnated the whole coast with sand for some miles into the interior; indeed, wherever the west coast has a slope sufficient to retain the deposit, it will be found to be of fine yellow sand, of depth according to the exposure.

The argillaceous white cliffs, from 15 to 30 feet high, falling perpendicular to the high-water line, are common to both banks of the Hokianga river; off these, and extending along the shore, are huge boulders of iron sandstone, some of them nearly round in shape and 30 feet in circumference; they do not however reach beyond the low-water mark.

MOTU KARAKA river, named after an island at its mouth, is the first river on the north side; it extends in a N.W. direction, and has only one foot at low water at the entrance, but deepens above. The hills on both sides about 100 feet high, are well wooded, chiefly by the puriri tree; the mangroves are extensive, but there are bold points on either side to the low water; 4 miles from the entrance is fresh water, running through a plain; there is a small native settlement at the head.

MAUNGAMUKA river is the next stream of any consequence; it is 2 miles above the narrows, and is a river of considerable importance, down which most of the timber is conveyed. It is navigable for 3 miles at low water for vessels drawing under 12 feet, and the channel is more than a cable's length wide; above this the channels are for some distance narrow and intricate, when it improves again, and as the water becomes fresh, the timber ponds are seen on the north bank.

Five miles from the mouth, at the end of the mangroves, the hills descend steep to the water's edge, the channels are narrow, and the freshes come down with great force; 1 1/2 miles above is Mongatipa village; on the south bank opposite this village, the clay cliff is perpendicular, 30 feet high; Pungaheke village is with the windings of the river nearly 2 miles above this; on the south bank of the river is a small settlement of Wesleyan missionary natives, above which no boat can proceed. A track from the head,--indeed, it is the main communication,--passes over the shoulder of Maungataniwa mountain to Kaitaia and Monganui in Doubtless bay.

OREWA RIVER, running parallel to the Maungamuka, but of less extent, is also much used for transporting kauri spars; these, about 2 miles up the river, are still very abundant; the water soon becomes fresh,

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which is important for preserving the spars; the head of the river divides into three small streams, running through a raupo valley, about 4 miles from the mouth.

HAURAKI RIVER must be considered the termination of the Hokianga, which becomes navigable only for boats from this point; 6 miles above are the rapids. Near its source there is a road to the Bay of Islands; there is one English settler on its banks, besides Mr. M'Donnel's large station above the missionary establishment.

WAIMA RIVER.--This stream is on the left or southern shore of the Hokianga, below the narrows, and no doubt will be its most important tributary. At near high water, vessels of 12 feet draught could get into the river and anchor in 4 fathoms at low water, and afterwards might go up, lying safely on the mud; it runs in an easterly direction for 11 miles to the rapids. A Wesleyan mission station is within 3 miles of this, on a branch that runs to the south, and about half a mile from the river; there is an excellent bridle road from it to the Bay of Islands, a day's ride.

OMANAI RIVER, south of Hurd's point, runs 4 miles to the eastward, and has its banks under cultivation by the natives; the hills are of moderate height, and cleared on both sides. Its navigation is similar to the other streams, and fresh water is met with 3 miles up.

WIRINAKI RIVER, the last tributary of any importance on the south shore, and 7 miles from the heads, presents a channel deep and broad for the first mile, but has at low water only one foot at its mouth. It has more natives on its banks than on any of the former streams described; and the creeks winding through the mangroves from the main stream, lead to their habitations.

STATIONS.--The principal points or heads on Hokianga river are occupied by English. Young's point (Kehotu-Mongera), Manning's point, (Onoki), Munroe's point, Hurd's point (Rawi-ne), Mr. Russel's station (Ko-ko-hu), the Wesleyan mission station opposite to Ko-ko-hu, and Mr. M'Donnel's at Hauraki, are the principal stations. The largest native village is Pakenhae, the chief of which, Rangatira, has much land under cultivation. Ko-ko hu is one of the best residences in this part of New Zealand; and its proprietor, Mr. Russel, is the chief exporter of timber Ships of any burthen may anchor off it. 3

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TIDES. -- It is high water at the heads on full and change days at 9h 45m, the tides run from 4 to 5 knots; ordinary springs range 10 feet, and neaps 7 feet; during strong westerly winds, the neaps rise as high as ordinary springs; and sometimes have been known to rise 4 feet above them; when inside the heads, the velocity of the stream decreases, being from 2 to 3 knots, until in the Narrows, where it is as much as 4 knots. At the anchorage off Ko-ko-hu it is high water at 10h 15m.

The banks of the river are everywhere approachable for boats at high water; at low water, the mud flats, which commence 4 miles from the heads, are of considerable extent, generally soft and very steep-to, and extending from point to point.

On the outer coast the flood runs to the southward, and the ebb to the northward; at the distance of 3 miles off shore the strength is 2 knots, and 1 knot at twice that distance.

OFF-SHORE SOUNDINGS at 10 miles will be found in about 60 fathoms green mud and sand, which decrease gradually to 30 fathoms within 3 miles.

The following remarks on the wind, weather, &c, were obtained from Mr. Martin, the pilot, whose experience was gained during a residence of twenty-three years at the mouth of the river.

WINDS.--It blows the hardest and most frequently from N.W. to S.W.; indeed, the westerly winds are in about the proportion of 3 to 1.

The heaviest gales are from S.W., and occur in the month of June.

Easterly winds are most common in the summer months, and generally draw round to south; they are looked for at the new moon, and last about three days.

The greatest quantity of rain falls in the winter months, July, August, and September.

FOGS, for which Hokianga river has been said to be noted, prevail in October and November, but they seldom last more than three hours, from daylight to about 8 a.m.

GENERAL REMARKS.--The longest time a vessel has been detained at the mouth is 16 days, except once, when no vessel could get away for six weeks.

There may be about eight or nine days in the year when the bar could be crossed without a break.

The greatest number of shipping in the river, at one time, were seven, each averaging 500 tons. The accidents which have occurred during the residence of the pilot here, have been:--one vessel foundered on the north head, two struck on the bar, and a large ship lost her rudder in going out, being set on the south head by the tide.

FRESH WATER.--Between the heads and Young's point there are fresh-water streams on either side where vessels may water; the most

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preferable is a small stream on the north shore, a mile from the north head, and on Mr. Young's property; here with one boat, H.M.S. Pandora procured 26 tons in two days, the streams on the opposite shore are occasionally brackish. Provisions (fresh pork) and vegetables may be obtained in any quantity.

SIGNALS.--From the signal staff on the south head, the following signals are made. The pilot will be at the entrance of the heads in his boat, but seldom outside the bar:--

No. 1. Blue Peter.--Keep to sea; bar is not fit to take.
No. 2. Red Flag.-- Take the bar; there is no danger.
No. 3. Blue with White Cross.--Ebb tide; bar not fit.
No. 4. White.--First quarter flood.

When these flags are understood, they should be answered from the ship by a pendant or flag where best seen: the flagstaff works on a pivot, and when a vessel is too far to the southward for entering, the staff will droop to the northward, if too far to the northward, it will droop to the southward. Vessels to be particularly guided by the drooping of the flagstaff; whichever way it droops the ship must take that direction; and by no means take the bar, until the flag staff1 bears E. 3/4 N.

It should be remarked, that a code of signals somewhat similar to the above has been established by a native at False Hokianga, for the purpose of guiding coasters, and it was partly owing to this circumstance that H.M.S. Osprey was wrecked.

From Hokianga river the coast continues its south-easterly trend; the land is moderately high, and the depth of water 2 miles from the shore is 20 fathoms; at the distance of 8 miles to the southward, the coast becomes rocky, with large boulders, and continues so to Monganui bluff.

MONGANUI BLUFF.---This remarkable mountain, which is 17 miles from Hokianga, rises immediately over the sea to a height of 2,046 feet, and is thickly wooded; it is a conspicuous land mark, and can be distinguished a long distance from seaward; there is a break in the cliffs for 2 miles to the southward of it, when they again commence, and extend uninterruptedly in a straight line for 35 miles, or within 8 miles of the north head of Kaipara harbour; these cliffs are topped with sandy hillocks which reach but a short distance inshore, and are backed by a range of moderate height, which extends the whole distance parallel with the coast.

At the foot of the cliffs the whole way from Hokianga to Kaipara, a distance of 64 miles (except at the base of the Monganui bluff), is a hard sandy beach. 4

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Eight miles north of Kaipara, the sandy cliffs recede inland, leaving an extensive level of sand and swampy ground between them and the beach line; the sand hills at the north head of Kaipara are 200 feet higher than those along the beach.

KAIPARA HARBOUR is one of the most extensive inlets in New Zealand, and will probably become hereafter one of the most important. The entrance to it, as is the case with all the ports on the west coast, is attended with difficulties, 5 but when once within, there is perfect security for any number of vessels of the largest size.

Five miles within the heads, three large rivers branch off in different directions, winding through some of the most fertile land in New Zealand, abounding with the kauri and other valuable timber, and well adapted to agricultural purposes. These rivers are navigable for many miles for vessels of large tonnage.

The northern branch, the Wairoa, rises in the hills, (on whose northern slope the Waima, an arm of the Hokianga river, has its source;) it extends from its mouth for 30 miles in a north-westerly direction, or parallel with the coast, and at a distance of 5 miles from it; it then takes a northerly and easterly direction, and pursues a narrow and tortuous course for an equal distance.

Otamatia, the eastern branch, traverses the whole breadth of the island, one of its arms almost reaching the river Wangari, on the eastern coast.

Kaipara itself, the southern branch, flows through a valley formed by the hills, which bound the coast between Kaipara and Manukau harbours, and is only separated from an inlet of Auckland harbour by a distance of about 3 miles; over this piece of land canoes or whale boats are dragged without difficulty.

KAIPARA ENTRANCE differs from Hokianga river entrance in this respect, that instead of a continuous bar across, which can only be passed by large vessels at a certain time of tide, it has a succession of sand banks with several channels between, the main one of which, so far as depth of water is concerned, may be entered at any time, there being 5 fathoms in it at low water.

In consequence of there being no distinctive features in the neighbourhood, the entrance of the port is not easily made out by a stranger. 6 The

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best natural marks for the entrance are, that the sand hills at the north head, which are 490 feet high, are 200 feet higher than those along the beach, and have three green hillocks on their face; and that (as has been before observed) the sandy cliffs recede from the beach for some distance to the northward of the entrance.

The land south of Kaipara harbour is also higher than that to the northward, and a large green triangular tuft will be observed on the summit of a sandy range 430 feet high, 2 miles from the beach line, south of the south head; moreover in clear weather, the opening shows the dark hills on the eastern shores of the river's mouth.

The breakers, however, will generally be seen from the mast head, long before the distinctions in the land are visible; the south-eastern limit of them being 6 miles from the north head, and those at the main channel entrance, 4 1/2 miles from the south head. The whole extent of the outer limit of the breakers is 11 miles, encircling the mouth of the port in the form of a crescent convex to seaward.

CHANNELS.--There are at present four channels; the northern is close along the north shore, it is very narrow, and has from 2 1/4 to 3 fathoms; it should never be taken unless under difficulties, or when a vessel by standing too far over has been drawn into it by the tide. 7

FANNY CHANNEL, there is reason to believe, has opened lately; it generally breaks across, but there are 15 feet in it at low water; vessels have taken this for the main channel, and have been surprised at finding such shallow water. Steering along the breakers from the northward it will be the first opening seen, but except near high water, or under favourable circumstances, no large vessels should attempt it. It has this advantage over the main channel, that the course to the north head is nearly direct; after passing through, a north course will clear to the northward of the Tory shoal, which will be seen breaking; and when clear of it a mid-channel course may be steered between it and the north head.

MAIN CHANNEL is 4 miles from the beach of the south head and is nearly three quarters of a mile wide in its narrowest part; the extremes of the banks on either side of it break heavily and mark the channel well. 5 1/2 fathoms at low water will be found in mid-channel; when at the entrance the present land marks are, the middle green hillock on the north

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sand head bearing N. 1/4 W., and the large green triangular tuft (elevated 430 feet on the south sand hills) E. b. N. 1/2 N.

The course through the channel will be N. by E.; as the extreme of the left bank is passed, which breaks heavily, the Tory shoal is seen, distant 2 miles in a north-westerly direction; it is half a mile in extent. Steer so as to pass on either side of it, but the north side is preferable. Off the north sand head a spit extends for more than half a mile, which breaks and narrows the channel between it and the Tory shoal to about a mile in width; the depth here is from 20 to 25 fathoms.

If the Tory channel is taken, which is the southern side of the Tory shoal, the width of the channel between it and the Swatchway breakers is little more than half a mile; the Swatchway breaks heavily, and has a patch on its outer edge dry at low water.

The courses to be steered until within the heads are so subject to the tides, which run from 4 to 6 knots, that the eye assisted by the breakers which always show on the edges of the banks, will be the best guide to the seaman.

The south channel is intricate, narrow, and not well known. 8 On account of the strength of the tides and the great depth of water, vessels must turn into either the Kaipara, or Wairoa branches, before they can obtain convenient anchorage.

ANCHORAGE in KAIPARA BRANCH.--Having passed the breakers and being between the heads, intending to anchor in this branch, the course will be E. by N., keeping the southern shore rather on board, steering for the first headland on the starboard side, a red cliff, and avoiding the spit which forms a tongue between the Wairoa and Kaipara rivers, the extreme of winch is generally breaking.

After passing the red cliff keep the south shore on board for 2 1/2 miles, and anchor half a mile off the shore in an open bay, before reaching Omokoiti, the largest native settlement in the Kaipara, and from which place the mud flats begin to extend; the channel above being formed between banks, which are steep-to, and which is best navigated at low water, when they are dry on either side.

The general course from the anchorage off Omokoiti to Aotea, a remarkable white cliff on the south bank, is S.E. for nearly 8 miles, the channel being a mile wide. When within 2 1/2 miles of the white cliff the course trends to the southward and the channel narrows.

The anchorage off Aotea is in 7 fathoms, and is the highest and safest in the Kaipara: above this the river branches off into several streams, which flow in a serpentine course to the southward and eastward; one of

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them reaching within 3 miles of an inlet of the Waitemata river, or Auckland harbour.

WAIROA BRANCH.--To enter the Wairoa after passing the north spit, keep the north shore on board for 5 miles, until within a mile of Pouto point, the turning point of the river,--which is about 100 feet high with a flat top, where a pah has been;--then edge off, as a spit extends half a mile from the shore southward of the point. Having passed the spit, keep the shore on board again, and an anchorage off the watering place will be found in from 13 to 6 fathoms: this anchorage is 2 1/2 miles above Pauto point, and under the second high cliff, after passing a small islet joined to the land at low water, the valley north of the cliff has the stream. 9

Three miles above the watering place is Okaru, a native village, from whence natives pilot can be obtained, and until the river is buoyed recourse should be had to their services in proceeding up this branch of the Kaipara. A monotonous range of white cliffs extend for 16 miles up the Wairoa, which runs nearly parallel with the sea coast at a distance of 5 or 6 miles, until reaching Mongawhare, 25 miles above Okaru village.

Ships at present take in timber at Mongawhare, where there is sufficient depth of water for any vessel in the trade, and anchorage in 4 fathoms at low water.

From Mongawhare the river runs north-easterly and becomes narrow and tortuous, but timber has been shipped as high as Omano in a vessel of 300 tons. This station, taking the windings of the river, is 21 miles above Mongawhare.

OTAMOTEA.--From the heads of Kaipara harbour there are deep channels into the rivers Otamotea and Oruawharu, the eastern branches of the Kaipara: the channels lie between sand banks, and until buoyed should not be taken without a pilot. These rivers have undoubted advantages over the other branches of the Kaipara, being near the heads, free from banks, and their shores comparatively free from mud flats, with fine soil and abundance of timber; their sources also being within a short distance of Wangari river on the east coast, will eventually make them the most valuable branches of this great estuary.

TIDES.--It is high water on full and change at the heads of Kaipara harbour at 10h 55m; springs range 10 feet, and neaps 8. In the main channel the tide runs 4 knots. The tides vary in strength according to winds and freshes: they are the strongest between the Tory shoal and North spit; and off the north entrance, until reaching the first white cliffs in the Wairoa, when the influence of the Otomatea and Oruawaru rivers may

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be said to cease: the ordinary springs in these parts run 5 knots, but during freshes and strong gales 6 and even 7 knots.

In the Kaipara branch, up to the first anchorage, the springs run 3 knots, above that not more than 2. In the upper parts of the Wairoa above the watering place the stream runs 3 knots, and continues at that strength until near the head of the river.

Above Mongawhare a bore of considerable strength carries up the first of the flood, breaking upon the north bank. It is high water under Toka-toka, (a remarkable sharp peak on the south bank of the river 620 feet high, and 7 miles below Mongawhare,) at 12h 23m, and at Omano, the highest distance ships can go, at 2h 30m.

The tides outside follow the direction of the coast, the flood running south and the ebb north, but on striking the outer banks they flow and ebb directly over them, as well as through the channels. This set of the tides must be attended to in navigating these channels, and a vessel should not stand far into the great semicircular bight inside the banks with the ebb, or she will be carried on them, H.M.S. Pandora, in prosecution of the survey, anchored close inside the great bank just north of Fanny channel; but unless in cases of emergency vessels should not anchor outside the heads.

The tides of the river follow the courses of the channels. Vessels leaving Kaipara harbour should be within 3 miles of the heads at the first of the ebb, if it is intended to beat through, which is possible for a smart working ship to do. If a fair wind is considered necessary, it must be remembered that the morning land wind will rarely carry a vessel clear of danger, and will probably leave her becalmed among the breakers. 10

From KAIPARA to MANUKAU HARBOUR, a distance of 40 miles, is almost a straight coast and free from dangers, but no landing can be effected on any part of it. Rangitera beach, a hard sand fringed with low undulating sand hills, extends for the first 24 miles south of Kaipara, and behind these sand hills, about 2 miles inland, a range of barren hills, many of them with sandy tops and faces, runs parallel with the coast, the highest of them not exceeding 550 feet.

The small island Oaia, lies at the southern end of this beach, about half a mile off shore, and from it to Manukau harbour the coast is rugged and cliffy, broken here and there into sandy bays and beaches, the land rising gradually towards the north head. The cliffs for 5 miles northward of the entrance are from 600 to 800 feet high, and 2 miles from the north head is a remarkable conical peak (Ohako) close to the sea.

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1 1/2 miles north of Ohako cone is Parera, a small rock lying half a mile off shore. The coast immediately southward of Parera is fronted by a shoal, which extends a mile off and is continually breaking. The north head itself is a remarkable cone, and has two others inside it at distances of half a mile from each other.

Vessels running along the coast from the northward for Manukau should keep 4 miles off shore until the marks are on for entering, as the banks extend 3 miles off the mouth of the harbour.

MANUKAU HARBOUR. 11--This extensive inlet, immediately opposite to Auckland harbour, and affording water communication within so short a distance of the capital, cannot fail, when more generally known, and as commerce increases, to be of considerable importance.

Until recently the access to it has been imperfectly known, and the dangers and difficulties attending the navigation much overrated; by the survey of H.M.S. Pandora, however, it has been ascertained that there is a straight and deep channel, sufficient to admit vessels of any tonnage, whereas it had been generally supposed that a continuous line of shoals, with narrow and intricate channels, extended across its mouth; this belief is to be accounted for by the following circumstances, namely, that the entrance when seen from Puponga (within the harbour) would appear to break across, because the middle bank, which is always breaking, faces this view, and that when seen from the land about the north and south heads, the Orwell and the middle banks would overlap, and cause the same appearance; whereas, once in the channel between the heads, the sea is clear before you.

Trading vessels have fallen into this error, and have preferred waiting inside for an opportunity to pass through a shoal and narrow passage, which frequently detained them for days, when such vessels could with facility have worked down with the tide, having never less width than half a mile in the channel, and this increasing from the north head outwards.

There is certainly the least water on the position of the bank, which has been laid down in the old charts as extending across the mouth of the harbour; nor is it impossible that there may have been less, but it has not been crossed before the Pandora's survey, except by a few vessels which have been surprised to find themselves in safety on the other side. It appears also more than probable that the present straight channel should continue, as it has taken, (if indeed it ever shifted,) its natural course, the direction of the harbour.

Besides the narrow and intricate channel, to the southward, into Manukau harbour; there is another to the northward, half a mile wide,

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having, it is said, 3 fathoms at low water, but neither are recommended since there is a direct and deeper one.

From the foregoing remarks it will be inferred that under ordinary circumstances the entrance to Manukau harbour is not difficult; indeed with moderate weather, a leading wind, and the recent survey, any vessel may approach and enter with perfect confidence. It must be remarked however, that situated as it is, on an open and exposed coast, there must be times when it would be imprudent to approach the port, unless in cases of great emergency, for instance, in a westerly gale, there would be a continuous break, and leading marks might be obscured; fortunately, such gales, however frequent, are not of long duration.

ENTRANCE. 12--The heads are easily distinguished, the coast gradually increasing in elevation from Kaipara to Manukau, where the hills on the north shore rise to the height of 1,280 feet. To the north of the port the country is an extensive forest, while all that facing seaward to the southward is peculiarly barren for 20 miles; but the most conspicuous objects first visible from the westward are three conical peaks near the north head, one of them forms the island Paretutai, and may be considered as the north head, being connected at low water, it is 350 feet above the sea. The south head presents a rounded barren face of brown soil, with table-land extending southward.

The bar, a cable's length in breadth, is 3 miles from Paratutai; the least water at low water springs is 21 feet in the channel on the bar.

The soundings from seaward to the bar decrease very gradually to 12 fathoms, which will be found on the outer edge, and from that depth it shoals suddenly, increasing again within from 7 to 17 fathoms.

The natural marks for leading into Manukau harbour are very conspicuous; the Ninepin a rock 80 feet high, near low water extreme

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of the north head, being brought in line with the right or south extreme of Paratutai; a third rounded point, Puponga,--the extreme of a peninsula, projecting from the north shore 5 miles inside the harbour,--will also have its right tangent just visible.

By keeping these three objects in line, bearing N.E. by E., the shoals to the northward are avoided, and steering in on that course N.E. by E. a vessel will pass nearly in midchannel between the north and middle banks; observing that Puponga point should not be shut in by Paratutai. The channel at the bar is nearly a mile wide, and decreases to half a mile when between Paratutai and the inner end of the south or middle banks, where it is narrowest.

The same course N.E. by E. leads between the Orwell and middle banks, both nearly dry at low water, and always visible by the breakers. Pass a cable's length from the Ninepin to avoid a sand spit, which extends to the S.W. of it; but when it bears north, steer for and keep as near to Paratutai as convenient.

The south head is a mile inside the north head; a spit extends from the former towards Paratutai for two thirds of a mile; there are 7 feet on the end of this spit, and it narrows the channel to half a mile.

After passing this spit, the channel is clear to Puponga, a distance of 5 miles, the depth gradually decreasing from 20 fathoms; it is not advisable to anchor until rounding this point on the north shore, or Mako point, which is nearly opposite it on the south side; but if necessary, the Huia banks afford anchorage in from 5 to 6 fathoms, nearly 2 miles before reaching Puponga. There is shoal water extending off the Huia a mile to the westward of Puponga point, but by keeping the Ninepin open of Paratutai the outer edge of it will be cleared.

After rounding Puponga point, vessels bound up the northern or Wairopa channel should haul up to avoid the tail of the mud flats, between which and Puponga there is a channel of scarcely half a mile; good anchorage will then be found in 4 fathoms, half a mile above the point, and about a third of a mile offshore; with a leading wind vessels can proceed as far as Shag point, 5 miles above Puponga, if the banks are visible, the channel being a third of a mile wide, and the course along the coast, taking care not to get within the line of the points.

Vessels going to Papakura or Waiuku, should proceed to an anchorage, off Kauri point, in from 8 to 10 fathoms. The course to this anchorage which is little more than 2 miles from Mako point, is after passing the latter to keep the shore on board within a third of a mile, to avoid the flats, which dry at low water.

TIDES above Puponga, both in the Wairopa and Waiuku channels, average 2 1/2 knots at springs. In the narrow part of the channel off

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Paretutu they run 4 knots, and on the bar outside from 1 to 2 knots; on the outer coast, the flood sets to the south and the ebb to the north. The tides within take the direction of the channels, and are not strong on the banks even when well covered, which is a good guide for navigation, but until these channels are buoyed, they should be navigated when the tide shows the banks, or with boats ahead.

Vessels should not attempt to enter Manukau harbour against the strength of the ebb, unless with a commanding breeze.

It is high water at the entrance on full and change, at 9h 30m, the range at springs 13 feet, neaps 7 feet.

INNER WATERS OF MANUKAU HARBOUR. -- From the Puponga peninsula, Manukau harbour expands to a breadth of 15 miles by 12, having three channels navigable for vessels of any tonnage to three equidistant, and valuable districts (viz.), Onehunga, Papukura, and Waiuku.

Those channels are with slight exceptions nearly straight, and having dry banks on either side at low water, they offer a sheltered anchorage in any part; they carry their depth up to within the heads of Waiuku and Papakura, and nearly up to Onehunga.

There are also two deep channels leading along the north shore; one branching off, Onehunga middle channel (Wairopa), at Shag point, leads to the Wahau portage, and joins the middle channel again just before reaching cape Horn, though at this point it is only navigable for vessels of burthen at high water.

The other, outer Onehunga channel (Purakau), comes up direct from Puponga point, and would have been the best channel to Onehunga, but that it fails in depth where it enters the Middle channel, at cape Horn; it is useful to the lands around Puketutu, and indeed is generally available, as it would have 22 feet at high water, where it is most difficult. The general nature of the bottom in all these channels is a greenish sand and mud, good holding ground. The tides within them average at springs 2 1/4 knots; there are no rocks and no uneven ground, and the banks, being soft sand and shells, are not likely to injure a vessel on touching.

One tide will suffice to carry a vessel from the heads, with a leading-wind, to either of the above districts.

It will be observed that these remarks are suited for vessels of any burthen, but Manukau flats can be traversed by boats, according to the tides, and, unlike the banks outside, there is the smoothest water over them, the tide taking the course of the channels. The banks are generally covered soon after the first quarter flood, but they vary in height; and some are never uncovered, especially those facing the Waiuku channel, where there is generally 4 feet at low water, and only small spots that

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dry. Having made these general observations on the different channels, we now come to their more immediate description.

Onehunga middle or main channel leads along the north shore from Puponga point; a flat extends from the village of Karangahapi, which lies in the bight, 1 1/4 miles north of Puponga, off which there is good anchorage.

From Karangahapi there is a straight channel to Shag point (Okewha) one third of a mile broad, with 4 1/2 fathoms at low water: the distance from Puponga to Shag point is nearly 5 miles.

At Shag point the channel divides, the inner one being along the coast has a depth of 3 fathoms near the Wahau portage, but as before-mentioned difficult at cape Horn.

The main channel takes an easterly direction from Shag point, turning in again towards cape Horn; its width is little more than a cable's length, with from 3 to 4 fathoms at low water; at the junction of the three branches near that cape, the least water is 13 feet.

Cape Horn (Matengahe) is 2 3/4 miles below Onehunga; it is steep-to, as are also some of the other points before reaching the settlement, and as the flat extending from the town renders shipment very inconvenient, these headlands will probably be valuable, besides being about the nearest points to Auckland. The anchorage is also wider than that immediately off the lower end of Onehunga, where there is, however, a pool of 3 fathoms at low water. The general anchorage would be about a quarter of a mile below the white cliff (Tetapere), in 18 feet at low water.

The coast up to Onehunga is generally formed by low perpendicular cliffs: there are two broad creeks of no depth, besides several smaller streams in the various bights. The points are of soft grey level sandstone, extending in straight layers from the points to the S.W., but in some instances taking a curvilinear form. Karangahapi bay has deep iron sand.

PURAKAU or the outer Onehunga channel runs as before observed from Puponga point, between the banks, straight for Puketutu island. It has an average width of a quarter of a mile, and carries from 6 to 7 fathoms at low water to within three quarters of a mile of that island. It then takes a direction for cape Horn, and becomes narrower and somewhat intricate; at its junction with the middle channel at that point, there are only 9 feet at low water.

PAPAKURA CHANNEL, cutting through the middle of the flats, runs to the eastward for 12 miles; it has from 8 to 10 fathoms for the first 3 miles, and not less than 4 to within the heads, where there is anchorage in 4 1/2 fathoms.

The Wata Paka creek falls into this channel from the southward, 4 miles from the entrance, having from 3 to 4 fathoms for 1 1/2 miles up, when it becomes narrow and winding, with half a fathom to its head.

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Another creek, the Pukaki, joins 2 miles above this from the northward, having a good boat channel.

WAIUKU CHANNEL, commencing from Te-Hopono point, opposite to Puponga, runs along the shore to the southward. For 6 miles to the heads (Karaka and Tokaroa points) there is from 5 to 8 fathoms water until nearing these points when the depth decreases to 4 fathoms.

The channel leads close to Karaka point, a reef and bank extending a considerable distance off the opposite point: there is a hole of 17 fathoms between, and 6 fathoms water passing them, in which depth there is anchorage 1 mile within.

Above Karaka point the river runs to the south-east for 4 miles, and vessels drawing 12 feet may go up as far as the narrows, which are 4 1/2 miles above that point.

The Taihiki, a tributary of the Waiuku, one mile within Kakara point, is navigable for vessels drawing 12 feet for 2 miles. The channel up the Waiuku is along the coast, and it is generally steep from point to point.

COAST from MANUKAU to WAI-KATO RIVER, a distance of 22 miles in a S.E.1/2 S. direction, is a sandy beach, with barren-looking tableland facing seaward.

WAI-KATO RIVER is one of the largest rivers in New Zealand; it takes its rise about the centre of the island in Tongoriro mountain, and has several branches; the principal of which is the Waipa. It has a shifting bar, and is only accessible to small vessels; it is said to be navigable for vessels of 30 tons, for 60 or 70 miles, and for a much greater distance for boats; there are 3 1/2 fathoms at low water, within the entrance. The north entrance point is composed of sand hills, while the land on the south side is bold, rising from 500 to 600 feet; a mountain 1,230 feet high (Terua-tui-tui), lies N.E. by E., 4 1/2 miles from the entrance.

From Wai-kato river, the coast trends S.S.E. 1/2 E. for 20 miles to Whaingaroa harbour; the only off-lying danger is the Kapiapia rock, a black rock about 20 feet high, lying a mile off the coast, 7 miles southward of the south head of Wai-kato. The points are generally cliffy, with scattered rocks extending about a quarter of a mile off them, and sandy beaches between.

The land is moderately high and undulating, being from 300 to 600 feet above the sea.

The soundings off this part of the coast are, at the distance of 10 miles, 28 fathoms, grey sand, shoaling gradually to 16 fathoms within 4 miles of the beach.

WHAINGAROA HARBOUR may be known by Karehoe mountain, of conical shape, rising immediately over Woody head, the outer south entrance head, to a height of 2,370 feet; it is an excellent landmark.

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The harbour is just to the northward of the mountain, in a bight formed between it and the land running towards Wai-kato. When the bight is made, the entrance will be distinguished by a reddish cliff hill over the south head; the north head is low and sandy, with high woody land behind; the south point is also low, but not sandy, and slopes down from the reddish cliff hill just mentioned.

The bar is a mile outside the entrance, which is formed by two spits, dry nearly half way out at low water, the passage between them being 2 cables' lengths wide: the marks for crossing it are, the extreme of the north point Rangitoto in line with Ann point (on the south side of the harbour, 1 3/4 miles within the heads), bearing N.E. b. E. 3/4 E. Ann point gradually slopes from a low hill, about 2 1/2 miles inside the entrance.

In approaching Whaingaroa, the water shoals regularly from 8 fathoms, 2 miles off, to 9 feet, which is the least depth on the bar at low water springs: the channel is straight in from the bar to the heads, carrying in 2, 3, 4, and 5 fathoms when between them. Vessels may sail up to where the harbour branches off into the Waingaroa and Waite-tuna rivers, which are 3 miles from the entrance.

A course rather to the northward of mid-channel should be steered until nearly abreast Ann point, when a vessel should haul over slightly towards the south shore to avoid a shoal which extends from the north side between Mata-whero and Mata Kokaku points; there is good anchorage off the latter point, above the greatest strength, of the tides; indeed a vessel may anchor in any part of the harbour. Small vessels generally anchor off the first limestone rocks above the north head, near Hone village, in 9 fathoms. On a creek on the south side, a mile inside the entrance, is a Wesleyan mission station.

TIDES. -- It is high water at full and change on the bar at 9h 50m; range 12 feet.

The strength of the tides between the heads is from 4 to 6 knots; a mile above, from 2 1/2 to 3 knots; and at the anchorage off Mata kokaku point, from 1 1/2 to 2 knots.

GANNET ISLAND, a small island about half a mile in circumference, white with guano, and 70 feet high, with rocks extending a quarter of a mile to the south-west of it, bears S.W. 1/2 S., 13 1/2 miles from Woody head, and N.W. 1/4 W., 11 1/4 miles from Albatross point; there are 30 fathoms water at the distance of a mile all round, and 20 fathoms midway between it and the coast; it is generally covered with gannets.

AOTEA HARBOUR.--From Woody head the coast trends nearly south; the country hilly and wooded. Aotea harbour lies 10 1/2 miles to the

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southward of Woody head, and 8 miles north of Albatross point: the entrance is also 11 1/2 miles east of Gannet island.

On approaching it from seaward the entrance has the appearance of a great gap, with sand-hills on either side; the south point, Kapua-te-mauna, has a darker summit than the rest of the hills on the coast, and is 380 feet high; the north head is a low point, 44 feet in height, formed by the gradual slope of the sand-hills.

Outlying rocks. -- Off the north head, and a mile from the land, are two rocks; the northern (Ewhatu) is awash at low water, and nearly always breaking: it bears from the north head W. 3/4 N., and from the bar N.W. b. N, 1 1/2 miles from either. The south rock, which seldom breaks, is a quarter of a mile south of Ewhatu; there is deep water round and between them.

The BAR.--The width between the heads at high water is three quarters of a mile, but from the north head a long sand-spit, dry at half-tide, runs to the southward for one mile; and half a mile southward of the south head the south spit runs off, and outlies the north one, drying at low water about one third of a mile out.

In steering for the bar, two small triangular patches of yellow cliff to the right of the south point will be seen; the right of these patches in line with where the summit of the dark hill over the south head meets the sand hill, or where they appear to join, bearing E. 3/4 N., leads over the bar in 11 feet at low water; after crossing the bar, which is about a cable's length in width, haul in along the spit E.S.E, until abreast the tail of the north spit, which is always showing, then gradually haul up keeping the north spit on board, to the north head; still keep the north shore on board at 1 1/2 cable's lengths distance, as there is an extensive sand-flat on the south shore. When abreast Punga punga point, edge over to the southward half a cable's length, to avoid a tongue with 4 feet on it; and when abreast the abrupt termination of the sand on the north shore, steer for the red cliffs on the south side, and anchor off them in from 4 to 6 fathoms.

The depth of water in the channel from the heads to this point is from 2 to 4 fathoms at low water; it continues to the eastward three quarters of a mile towards the White bluffs, when it turns to the northward, and divides into three small channels, the westernmost leading to the mission station, above which it is dry; the middle towards the Pakaka creek, dry at low water; and the eastern channel to Makamaka creek, also dry at low water.

TIDES.--It is high water on the bar, full and change, at 10h, and the range 12 feet; between the heads the tides run from 3 to 5 knots, and at the anchorage off the Red cliffs from 2 to 4 knots.

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KAWHIA HARBOUR is 5 miles south of Aotea harbour; it is the most considerable inlet on the west coast, south of Manukau harbour.

The approach to it is well marked from seaward by the distant mountains of Pironghia, which rise in notched summits 15 miles inland, to the height of 2,800 feet, also by the high wooded headland to the northward, Woody head, as well as by tlxe bold craggy land of Albatross point on the south side, which extends 5 miles to the westward of the port and forms the bight in which it lies.

The harbour bears from Gannet island E.S.E. 13 miles distant. It has a bar entrance, which is 1 1/4 miles distant W.N.W. from the heads. There are two channels in,--the north and south,--which are separated from each other by a bank nearly half a mile in extent, with less than a fathom on it at low water. The south channel is the best and deepest, being nearly two cables' lengths wide, with 14 feet in it at low water: the northern is not so wide, and only carries 11 feet over it; moreover in westerly winds, there is a heavy abeam sea in crossing it.

The south head is double, forming two distinct cliffy points a quarter of a mile apart, with a sandy bight between, and rocks extending off both, visible, and not detached: the inner head, which appears as and is called the south head, is 110 feet high and has a very conspicuous yellow patch on it. The north head is a low sandy point, the termination of the sand-hills which stretch the whole distance between Aotea and this harbour.

SOUTH CHANNEL.--In approaching from the westward, as soon as the Pironghia mountains are made, steer for them, until Albatross point shuts in the land to the southward, which will be about 5 miles from the shore. Then to enter the south channel, bring the south head to bear E.S.E., and steer for it until the leading mark inside becomes visible on the same bearing: this mark is an arched cliff of a reddish colour and dotted with trees, 3 miles within the entrance. Keep this cliff a little open of the extreme of the south head, bearing E. b. S. 3/4 S., and steer in on that course with these marks on: the water will be found to shoal gradually from 10 fathoms a mile outside the bar to 14 feet at low water when on it.

When this latter depth is obtained, haul up towards the north sandy head to avoid the south bank, which the channel leads rather close to; and having run three cables' lengths there will be 3 1/4 fathoms, when steer direct between the heads E. b. S. 1/4 S. until 2 cables' lengths within the inner south head, or until the outer south head is just open of the extreme of the rocks off the inner head: then haul up the left channel, steering E.N.E. towards Leathart point.

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The channel, which for the first mile is between sand banks, is little more than a cable's length wide, with 4 and 5 fathoms; the banks will be distinguished by the stream; there are only 2 or 3 feet on them at low water. After passing them, which will be half a mile before reaching Leathart point, steer for that point; there are 6 fathoms within half a cable's length of it, and anchor half a mile above, a cable's length off shore, in 4 fathoms, abreast the native church.

NORTH CHANNEL.--The marks for crossing the bar by the north channel are, Mr. Joseph's house on Ohaua point, (two miles within the entrance,) just open of the rock off the south head, bearing S.E. 1/4 E.: steer in with these marks until in deep water,--5 or 6 fathoms,--or until within three cables' lengths of the heads, when keep between them, and the same directions previously given will hold good. There is anchorage in the southern arm for small vessels, by rounding the south head at the distance of less than a cable's length, and keeping along the south shore for about half a mile.

When within Kawhia harbour, and the flats are covered, the harbour presents a considerable expanse of water, six miles in length by four in width; but when the tide is out, the channels leading to the rivers Oparau, Awaroa, Rakau-nui and Wai-haerekiki, are all plainly visible, and easily navigable for small vessels for a considerable distance.

TIDES.--The time of high water on the bar at full and change is 9h 3Om; the range 12 feet. The strength of the tides between the heads is from 4 to 6 knots; when within, from 2 to 4: the ebb tide sets over on the south spit, with a slight inclination to the southward, and the flood in the contrary direction.

In the bay outside between the south head of Kawhia and Albatross point there are from 4 to 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, where there would be anchorage in fine weather with off-shore winds.

COAST SOUTHWARD of KAWHIA.--Albatross point is 600 feet high, bare and cliffy to seaward, having detached rocks within a cable's length; during S.W. winds, and with the ebb tide, there is a great sea off this point, and vessels bound to or from Kawhia should give it a berth; between it and New Plymouth, an extent of seventy miles of coast, there is no place of shelter except the small rivers Mokau and Waitera, which are alone eligible for coasters in fine weather.

For the first 18 miles the coast trends south, with a slight curve to Terua point, which is 400 feet high, and from the northward shows as a light yellow cliff; some scattered rocks extend a short distance off the points, but no dangers are believed to exist within a mile of the shore.

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Off the Marakopa river, 12 miles south of Albatross point, a rock awash (Tokama-puna) lies half a mile distant, and there is also a reef awash nearly a mile north of Terua point. Whare-orino mountain, 2,074 feet high, rises over this point, and the land immediately over the coast a mile north of it is 1,000 feet above the sea.

At the distance of 15 miles off shore there are 40 fathoms grey sand, and as far as soundings have been obtained this depth decreases regularly to 34 and 26 fathoms, at distances of ten and five miles from the land.

From Terua point the coast continues its southerly trend almost straight, and without presenting any remarkable feature, to Mokau river, a distance of 19 miles from it, and 35 from New Plymouth.

MOKAU RIVER.--This river, which takes its rise in the Rangitoto mountain range, is resorted to by coasters engaged in the native trade; it has only 2 feet water over its bar at low water springs, and at high water 14 feet: vessels of 20 tons cross it under favourable circumstances, and there is good anchorage within; it is navigable for boats for many miles, but is subject to heavy freshes. Coal is found here.

From Mokau river the coast runs S. by W. nearly 20 miles, when it suddenly takes a westerly trend towards the roadstead of New Plymouth, and cape Egmont. Southward of Mokau river, the coast is composed of yellow sandstone cliffs, about 100 feet high, on which the constant action of the sea has produced a curious effect, isolating portions of the projecting points, and wearing them into pillars of the most fantastic shapes.

The White bluff (Parinini), a very remarkable cliff 900 feet high, and visible a long distance from seaward, lies 10 miles south of Mokau river.

From Pari-okari-wa, a projecting point 2 miles southward of this bluff, a long reef extends for two miles to the northward, and breaks only in heavy weather.

Between the rivers Mokau and Waitera, there are several streams, most of them fordable at low water.

WAITERA RIVER is 8 miles north-eastward of New Plymouth and is often run for by coasting vessels on the approach of bad weather at that roadstead, as well as for the purposes of trade with the natives: there is not more than two feet water on its bar at low springs, but the tide ranges 12 feet. The anchorage is off the native village a quarter of a mile within the entrance, in three or four fathoms. The river is navigable for boats a distance of four miles.

TIDES.--The flood stream from the northward, meets the flood stream from Cook Strait in the vicinity of Gannet island.