1856 - New Zealand Pilot - CHAPTER IX. WEST COAST OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND.

[Image of page 219]

CHAPTER IX.

WEST COAST OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND, FROM THE WESTERN ENTRANCE OF FOVEAUX STRAIT TO CAPE FAREWELL.

VARIATION, 1851,--16 deg. to 15 deg. East.

The only places of shelter for shipping along the whole extent of the west coast of the Middle island,--a distance of 500 miles,--are those singular, and truly remarkable sounds or inlets, which penetrate its southwestern shores between the parallels of 44 deg. and 46 deg. south latitude.

The precipitous and iron-bound coast line which forms the sea wall, as it were, in which these extraordinary inlets may be almost likened to so many breaches, runs in a N.N.E. and S.S.W, direction; and the whole, thirteen in number, are included within a space of little more than one hundred miles.

With the exception of Cook's excellent description of Dusky bay, (explored during his second voyage in 1773,) nothing has been recorded of this remarkable region; nor until an examination by H.M.S. Acheron in 1851, was it known to any but a few adventurous whalers, whom stress of weather alone had compelled to seek shelter on its desolate and inhospitable shores. The character and features of these sounds so much resemble each other that it seems desirable to offer a description of them generally, before entering into any detailed account of their capabilities individually.

In approaching from seaward there is so much sameness in the appearance of the land, that unless a vessel knows her position accurately, it is not easy at a distance to distinguish the entrance of one sound from another, and the smaller inlets at a distance of 4 or 5 miles have more the appearance of ravines between the high and rugged mountains, than the entrances of harbours; in moderately clear weather, the coast can be made with confidence, and as the entrances are generally equidistant from each other (about 8 miles,) and all running in an easterly direction, there would be little danger to be apprehended from a lee shore; it must be remarked, however, that a fresh or even strong westerly wind in the offing frequently dies away within a mile of the coast, leaving a vessel at the mercy of a calm and swell, when recourse must be had to towing, which probably, in any vessel but a whale ship, would be impracticable;

[Image of page 220]

moreover, in consequence of the enormous quantity of fresh water which falls in cascades from the steep mountain ridges, there is always an outset, particularly from the smaller sounds, and frequently a draft of wind down their narrow arms, so that unless with a fresh fair gale, which blows right home and up the sounds, sailing vessels will generally find it a difficult and tedious operation to fetch inside their entrances.

The larger of the sounds are in some measure exempt from these inconveniences; they are generally divided into several arms, penetrating the coast, in some instances for a distance of 20 miles, with a breadth rarely exceeding a mile, and studded with numerous islets. The smaller sounds generally run in for a distance of from 6 to 8 miles, with a width of about half a mile, and anchorage is seldom to be found except at their inner extremes.

The shores, which rise almost perpendicularly from the water's edge, are in the immediate neighbourhood of the sounds, covered with trees suitable for all purposes; among them the red pine, which, although heavier and inferior to the kauri, is well adapted for masts, and a vessel requiring spars could procure them of any size, up to a sloop of war's lower mast, with little difficulty; for this purpose the southern inlets are preferable.

The most remarkable feature common to the whole, is their great depth of water. Soundings can rarely be obtained under eighty or one hundred fathoms, and frequently at much greater depths; and the shores, within a few yards, are quite steep-to. Vessels may frequently with advantage warp up by laying out lines to the shore; and when a cove is reached where an anchor may be dropped, it will generally be necessary to secure to the trees also, to prevent being drifted off the steep bank by a flaw of wind. These flaws or squalls frequently blow with great violence off the high land, or down the gullies, during heavy gales outside.

At the entrance of several of the sounds, a narrow bar or belt of soundings from 30 to 50 fathoms will be found to extend across, where, under favourable circumstances, a vessel might drop a kedge with a hawser, and thus prevent being carried out with the ebb tide; the outset causes the influence of the flood to be but little felt.

Daylight is the best time for leaving these anchorages, when a land wind prevails for a few hours; indeed, unless the wind is blowing direct in, a vessel will seldom have any difficulty in getting to sea. Near the coast a constant current of nearly a mile an hour sets to the S.W.

The prevailing winds on this coast are from N.W. to S.W., the former frequently bring rain and thick weather, and as the shore is approached

[Image of page 221]

generally veer to the northward; S.W. winds are fine and clear; rain is of very frequent occurrence, and often lasts for several days together without intermission; and enclosed as these inlets are by mountains of such stupendous magnitude, except for about two hours before and after noon the sun is rarely visible; indeed it would be difficult to find an acre of level land in any part, and that an almost impenetrable forest.

Excellent fish of several kinds are abundant, and may be caught with hook and line close to the rocks at the entrances, or wherever there is a shoal patch; crayfish abound in the southern ports, also several species of ducks, pigeon, and the weka or wood-hen; those rare birds, the ka-ka-po and kiwi, so eagerly sought after by naturalists, and peculiar only to New Zealand, were found here in considerable numbers; no inhabitants have been met with since the few stragglers seen by Cook.

The sand-flies noticed by Cook are of a most virulent kind, and it was with great difficulty that the necessary astronomical observations on shore could be made by the officers of H.M.S. Acheron, who were frequently compelled to take refuge from their torments among the thick foliage a short distance from the beach, where, strange to say, they do not penetrate; these plagues invariably left the vessels at dusk and did not reappear until the following daylight.

The foregoing brief description may be appropriately closed by the following extract from the journal of Commander (now Captain,) G. H. Richards, H.M.S. Acheron, engaged in the survey of the coast in 1851.

"A view of the surrounding country, from the summit of one of the mountains bordering the coast of from 4,000 to 5,000 feet elevation, is perhaps one of the most grand and magnificent spectacles it is possible to imagine; and standing on such an elevation rising over the south side of Caswell's sound, Cook's description of this region was forcibly recalled to mind. He says, 'a prospect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with, for inland appeared nothing but the summit of mountains of a stupendous height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and naked except where they are covered with snow.' We could only compare the scene around us as far as the eye could reach, north to Milford-haven, south to Dusky bay, and eastward inland for a distance of 60 miles, to a vast sea of mountains of every possible variety of shape and ruggedness, the clouds and mist floated far beneath us, and the harbour appeared no more than an insignificant stream; the prospect was most bewildering, and even to a practised eye the possibility of recognizing any particular mountain, as a point in the survey, from a future station, seemed almost hopeless."

[Image of page 222]

PRESERVATION INLET, the southern of this series of remarkable sounds, lies at the south-west extreme of the Middle island, 80 miles from Port William, the nearest port of Stewart island, and the same distance from Bluff harbour.

Its entrance lies between Puysegur point, and Gulches head, which are 4 1/2 miles distant from each other, in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction. The southern point Puysegur, as before noticed, is a low sloping projection; Gulches head, (the dividing point also between Preservation and Chalky inlets,) is extremely rugged and cliffy, with rocks above water, extending 2 cables' lengths off, as also a sunken rock, detached and generally breaking, one third of a mile south of it. Coal island, 850 feet high, 2 1/2 miles long, north and south, and 1 1/2 miles wide, lies between these two points, and divides the entrance, the northern or main entrance being 1 1/2 miles in width, the southern is merely a boat channel, or refuge for small vessels in case of emergency.

BALLENY REEF lies off the main entrance, its nearest point bearing S.S.W., 3/4 of a mile distant from Gulches head; this reef, partly awash, is 1 1/4 miles in extent in a S.W. and N.E. direction, and always breaks heavily; there is a ship channel between it and Gulches head, nearly half a mile in breadth, with from 7 to 12 fathoms, irregular rocky bottom; but unless with a fair wind, vessels are not recommended to take it, and they must then be careful to pass outside the sunken rock, one-third of a mile south of Gulches head.

TABLE ROCK, a flat rock 20 feet high, lies W.S.W. 2 1/4 miles from Gulches head, and N.W. by W. 1/2 W., one mile from the outer rock of the Balleny reef; there is deep water close to this rock, and a passage between it and the latter reef.

APPROACH.--Coming from the southward or eastward, Preservation inlet will be readily known, as being the first opening seen. From the westward the high white cliffs of Chalky island, at the entrance of the inlet of that name, and 2 miles westward of Gulches head, are an excellent guide; also Treble mount, which reaches an elevation of 3,380 feet, and makes from the westward with two peaked summits; this mountain is remarkable; it rises from the centre of the peninsula separating Preservation from Chalky inlets, is visible a long distance from seaward, and bears from the main entrance N.N.E., distant 7 miles.

Entering Preservation inlet with a N.W. wind, it must be remembered that, as the port is approached, this wind always draws to N.N.W., or even more northerly, so that with the current, which sets out and to the southward with considerable strength, a dull sailing vessel will

[Image of page 223]

rarely fetch in through the entrance, which lies N.E. and S.W. The Balleny reef should therefore be hugged within less than half a mile,--its edge is well defined,--and Gulches head be kept pretty close on board; and, if Coal island cannot be weathered, a vessel should not stand far over towards it, as the outset is very strong on that shore, but keep to the north shore, until as high up as Price's beach, which is the first sandy beach a mile above Gulches head; and off which, in Welcome road, a vessel may anchor in N.W. winds, in 8 fathoms, three cables' lengths from the beach; this, however, is only a stopping place, and with S.E. winds, there is always a swell in the outer part of the inlet, until round Cavern head, which bears from Gulches head E.N.E., distant 3 miles.

SUNKEN REEF.--Between Gulches and Cavern heads a bay runs to the northward for 1 1/4 miles, its sandy beach meeting within half a mile of South port in Chalky inlet; 2 cables' lengths within the line of these two heads lies a dangerous reef which does not always break, it bears from the outer end of Price's beach E.N.E. 1 4/10 miles, from Cavern head W. by N. 1/2 S. one mile, and from Spit islet, a high rugged craggy rock connected with the north shore by a sand spit, S. by W. 1/2 W. half a mile; there are 17 fathoms close to this reef, and entering with a leading wind a vessel will be well clear of it so long as she does not stand inside the line between Gulches and Cavern heads; in working in there is a passage three quarters of a mile wide between Pinnacle rock at the north point of Coal island, and the reef, which bears from it N.W. 1/2 N. and when Spit island bears north a vessel will be inside it; the depth of water in the outer part of the inlet is from 20 to 16 fathoms until between Cavern head and Coal island, when it increases to 45 fathoms.

CAVERN HEAD is a rugged and broken point, on which a swell is always breaking, its summit is a saddle-shaped hill; several rocks above and below water are scattered to the westward of it, and a sunken rock lies 1 1/2 cables' length, W.S., W. from the extreme; this head-land should not be rounded very close, and in working in, a vessel should not stand so far to the northward as to shut in the southernmost Cording islet with it.

CUTTLE COVE, the first sheltered anchorage, lies a mile to the northward of Cavern head: after rounding this head the passage up lies between the western shore and Cording islets, and in the narrowest part is scarcely 4 cables' lengths in width; the cove will be known by being the third bight above Cavern head, and by a small islet (Single Tree islet), lying off it; the anchorage is between this islet and the mainland in from 10 to 15 fathoms mud, and is snug and well sheltered.

CORDING ISLETS are a chain of four islets, and some smaller rocks, lying to the north-eastward of Cavern head; there are channels

[Image of page 224]

between them, through which vessels may pass if necessary, in working up for Cuttle cove. Vessels so working up should pass to the north ward of the largest Cording islet, at the distance of a cable's length from its northern point, as a sunken rock lies 2 cables' lengths north of that point; but with N.W. winds it is recommended to work up to the westward of the islets. In standing to the eastward between the south Cording islet, and Steep-to island, which lies close off the N.E. point of Coal island, the Whale rock must be avoided; this rock is awash with deep water all round it, and bears north distant a quarter of a mile from the north end of Steep-to island.

Round islet and Wood Hen island, which lie to the eastward of Cording islets, have no dangers about them but what are visible, and may be approached close.

STEEP-TO, or CRAYFISH ISLAND, is a quarter of a mile northward of the N.E. end of Coal island, and connected with it by a reef with only 3 feet at low water; a rocky head projecting from its western side affords shelter for a small vessel, who having entered the port with a strong N.W. wind, is unable; to work up for Cuttle cove; she should then anchor as close as possible under the rocky head, and about a cable's length from the shore in from 10 to 6 fathoms. The reef which connects the two islands is only 2 cables' lengths south of the head; she must also be careful not to drop her anchor until soundings are obtained, as the water decreases suddenly from 35 fathoms to 10; this small anchorage, known to the whalers as the Neck of Crayfish island, does not afford shelter for more than one vessel and is not recommended when Cuttle cove can be reached.

ISTHMUS SOUND.--The upper part of Preservation inlet, above the Cording islets, branches into several arms. Isthmus sound, the westernmost, runs in a northerly direction 3 miles with an average width of half a mile: there is a depth of from 45 to 25 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of its head, and in its central part no bottom was found with 56 fathoms. The western side of this sound is a continuation of the coast from Cuttle cove, and vessels may enter it on either side of the Cording islets; if from their western side, the sunken rock before mentioned, as lying to the northward of the largest islet, must be avoided. The head of Isthmus sound is separated from Long sound to the north-Avard of it by a narrow neck, a cable's length across.

USELESS BAY runs parallel with Isthmus sound, a mile to the eastward, being separated from it by a narrow tongue of land, of which Colt head is the southern extreme; it is, in all respects a similar sheet of

[Image of page 225]

water, and its head is likewise separated from Long sound by a neck of land, two cables' lengths across.

REVOLVER BAY, the entrance to which is immediately opposite to Useless bay, runs in a southerly direction for a mile, with a breadth of one-third, and a more moderate depth of water, having anchorage in 12 fathoms a quarter of a mile from its head. Vessels desiring to enter either of these two bays should steer for Colt head, which bears E.N.E., 2 3/4 miles from Cavern head; passing to the southward of it, and then standing up the reach to the N.E. for three-quarters of a mile, they will be abreast both entrances.

LONG sound runs in a north-easterly direction, and extends 14 miles above Colt head. To enter it, having passed that head, and the entrances of Useless and Revolver bays; steer through Narrow bend, which runs to the N.E. for 2 miles, as far as Sandy point, on the eastern shore, round which, in Harries bay, there is anchorage in 15 fathoms, 1 1/2 cable's length from the beach; from Harries bay the sound opens out to the width of a mile, and takes a north-westerly direction for 2 1/2 miles, when it resumes its north-easterly trend, and maintains the same width until us high as the Only isles, which lie on the eastern shore; above these it narrows to half a mile, and terminates 3 miles above in Cascade basin, with a very narrow entrance, and a waterfall at the head; in this basin the depth is from 8 to 10 fathoms.

The soundings in Long sound, unless close to the shore on either side, are very deep; 24 fathoms will be found inside the Only isles, where an anchor might be dropped if necessary; on the western shore, three-quarters of a mile above Trevaccon head,--a high cliffy projection, 2 miles above the north-westerly bend,--there is a small cove, which runs to the westward for a quarter of a mile, and nearly a cable's length in width; here there is a depth of 4 fathoms, and a vessel might haul into it and secure herself. With these cxceptions, there is no anchorage in this sound in a convenient depth of water.

SOUTH ENTRANCE OF PRESERVATION INLET, 1 as before observed lies, between the south end of Coal island and Puysegur point, and may be used with advantage by small vessels arriving off Preservation inlet, with a strong N.W. wind, and not able to work in on account of the current, or from other causes. The entrance is narrow,

[Image of page 226]

and a sunken reef lying in the centre leaves the passage, which is between the reef and the point of Coal island, not more than two cables' lengths in width. A vessel intending to take this channel, must get well to windward before bearing up for it, and then hug the point of Coal island as close as possible--within her own length --and if not able to lay through, should drop her anchor as soon as under the lee of it, in 8 or 9 fathoms, and immediately send out a hawser to the rocks on the island shore; if blowing too hard to warp further up, the end of a chain should be carried on shore, and secured to the rocks, when she will lie in perfect safety. In a moderate gale a vessel may warp up by the island shore for half a mile, when good anchorage in 4 fathoms will be found, in perfectly smooth water. A mile wTithin the entrance, a bar of sand extends across, with only 6 feet at low water, so that a vessel over that draught must wait for the tide to proceed higher up.

When anchored in one of the snug coves of Preservation inlet, very little idea can be formed of the weather outside, and a boat should always be sent to Cavern head to observe it before putting to sea.

It is high water on the full and change in Cuttle cove, at llh 2Om, the range of tide from 4 to 8 feet: the ebb runs out at the rate of about one knot. The flood tide is but little felt in the inlet; it runs to the eastward between Gulches head and the Balleny reef, and sets across the entrance to the S.E.

A stream of fresh water runs into Cuttle cove, affording a good supply, and wood may be cut in any quantity. Pine spars may also be procured with much facility a short distance inland, and on the islands. Excellent fish of several kinds are abundant in Preservation inlet, and at the South entrance they may be taken with hook and line in almost incredible quantities. Crayfish also abound in most of the coves.

CHALKY, or DARK CLOUD inlet lies immediately to the N.W. of Preservation inlet, being only separated from it, as before remarked, by a high peninsula, of which Gulches head is the southern extreme. Its entrance is well denoted from seaward by the white cliffs of Chalky island, which lies in the centre of it, and also by the lofty Mount Treble, rising over its eastern side. Cape Providence, its western entrance point,

[Image of page 227]

300 feet high, lies 5 miles S.S.E. of West cape, and is surrounded by reefs and sunken rocks, which extend from it a mile to the southward.

The main arm of this inlet runs in a N. b. E. direction 8 1/2 miles from the S.E. point of Chalky island, with a breadth of nearly 1 1/2 miles, when it divides; Edwardsons sound continuing the northerly trend for 6 miles further, and Cunaris sound taking an E.N.E. direction for almost the same distance, the eastern head of the latter meeting within little more than a mile of Long sound in Preservation inlet.

The principal anchorages are South port and North port, the former on the eastern side 4 miles above Gulches head, and the latter on the western, 6 miles within cape Providence. Chalky island, and the Passage islands, immediately to the northward, lie in the middle of the entrance, leaving a wide ship channel on either side of them.

The EASTERN PASSAGE between Gulches head and Chalky island is the most convenient for vessels from the southward; Balleny reef and Table rock, which have been already described in treating of Preservation inlet, lie across the entrance of it, and vessels may enter either by the passage between Gulches head and Balleny reef, or between Chalky island and Table rock; the latter bears S. 1/2 W. nearly 2 miles from the S.E. end of Chalky island, and this latter passage is by far the best; it has from 20 to 25 fathoms water, and is entirely free from dangers; there is also a passage between Balleny reef and Table rock, but it has not been closely examined and is therefore not recommended: when inside the point of Chalky island the width of the channel is 1 1/2 miles, and the depth from 60 to 70 fathoms; in working up, vessels should not approach near the N.E. end of the island, as Pinnacle rock and several scattered rocks under water extend a quarter of a mile off it. There is a passage between Chalky and the Passage islands, but many rocks are scattered about, and it is by no means recommended.

The western passage between cape Providence and Chalky island is the best for vessels entering from the N.W., as with a wind not to the northward of N.W. they would lay through and fetch South port.

In taking this passage, the reefs awash, and sunken, off cape Providence, are the only dangers to be avoided; the former extend south three-quarters of a mile, and the sunken rocks S.W. 1/2 S. one mile from the Sugar-loaf rock at the cape extreme; the cape should therefore be given a berth of 1 1/2 miles until it bears north, when a vessel may haul up N.E. between the western shore and the islands; steering 3 miles on this course, Return channel will be opened out; this channel lies between the north end of the Passage islands and the south end of Great island,--which forms North port,--and

[Image of page 228]

is more than half a mile in width with a depth of 22 fathoms; from the north end of Passage islands the entrance to South port bears east distant 2 miles.

In entering the western channel, an extensive bight, Landing bay, will be seen immediately within cape Providence; there is good landing at its head in N.W. winds, and temporary anchorage may be had at its entrance in 9 fathoms if necessary, but it shoals suddenly within; on the same shore 2 miles above this bay is Breaker point, the western point of the blind entrance to North port; breakers extend half a mile off it, and vessels should be cautious not to stand up Blind entrance, as there are only a few feet water a short distance within.

SOUTH PORT is a deep bight penetrating the eastern shore of the inlet for nearly 2 miles in a S.E. b. S. direction, and with a breadth, when inside, of nearly half a mile; the entrance, which is 4 miles above Gulches head, is rendered very narrow by the islets and rocks which lie in it, the narrowest part is less than a cable's length in width, so that vessels can only enter with a leading wind, or tow in during a calm.

From the western entrance point, two islets, (Garden isles,) extend in a northerly direction 4 cables' lengths, which must be passed to the northward, as there is only a boat channel between them and the south shore; a rock awash lies in the centre of the entrance a long quarter of a mile N.E. by E. from the north point of the outer Garden island; from the N.E. point of the inner Garden islaml, shoal water extends to the eastward 1 1/2 cable's lengths with only 6 feet water at its outer extreme, which is marked by kelp; and from Reef point, the eastern entrance point, a reef of rocks extends towards this 6 feet patch; here is the narrowest part of the channel, and having passed through it about a cable's length, the port opens out to a width of half a mile.

Good shelter will be found in Anchorage cove on the port hand immediately within Reef point in from 14 to 9 fathoms, 1 1/2 cables' lengths from the beach; here vessels may lay in perfect security, and wood and water may be obtained with great facility; above Anchorage cove the port narrows to little more than 3 cables' lengths in width, and the water deepens from 15 fathoms to 30 and 36; tins depth is carried almost to the head, which is separated from Preservation inlet by a low swampy neck half a mile across and covered with trees.

Vessels entering Chalky inlet by the eastern channel intending to anchor in South port should pass to the northward of Garden islands at a convenient distance, and also of the outer rock awash; having passed the

[Image of page 229]

latter, haul up the bay, keeping the eastern shore on board within a cable's length; on nearing Reef point, look out for the 6 feet patch which bears W. 1/2 N. from it; this may be passed close in 10 fathoms, but if not seen, Reef point must be kept on board within less than a cable's length until past that bearing, and in hauling into Anchorage bay the point must not be rounded very close as shoal water extends for more than a cable's length to the southward of it.

Vessels entering by the western entrance and bound for South port, will, as soon as Return channel is open, make out Stripe head with its jib-shaped patch, on the eastern shore; when a course should be steered midway between it and Garden islands, and as soon as the rock awash in the entrance is passed proceed as before directed.

NORTH PORT, on the western side of Chalky inlet, 6 miles above cape Providence, lies between Great island and the main land, which are connected by a bank with only one fathom water from about the centre of the island; the south entrance to this port becomes in consequence a blind one.

Little island lies across the centre of the north entrance to North port; Ship entrance is between its south point and the north end of Great island; the channel is narrow, being little more than half a cable's length wide, with a depth of 6 and 7 fathoms, the shores on both sides being steep-to; when a cable's length within the entrance, the port opens out to a width of 3 cables, and the anchorage is in the centre, 2 cables' lengths from Little island in 14 fathoms, mud bottom, and perfectly land locked; the port runs to the westward three quarters of a mile with a depth of l5 and 18 fathoms water, when it shoals suddenly to 2 fathoms on the bank which connects Great island with the main. Between Little island and the north shore is a boat channel.

North port is easy of access with a leading wind, but the entrance lying in a westerly direction is opposed to the prevailing winds, and is therefore not so convenient a harbour for sailing vessels as South port, but for a steamer it is certainly preferable.

EDWARDSON SOUND, the northern portion of Chalky inlet, is bounded on either side by steep and rugged mountain ranges, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet elevation; the depth of water in its central parts exceed 100 fathoms, and the shores are steep and free from dangers to the head, which terminates in Lake cove, where there is a moderate depth for anchoring.

CUNARIS SOUND, the N.E. arm of Chalky inlet, has an equally great depth of water; its head terminates in two coves, in which from 15 to 24 fathoms will be found.

[Image of page 230]

Small Craft harbour islets lie on the south shore, at the junction of the two last named sounds; a small cove is formed on their southern side, where small vessels may anchor in 8 fathoms, and from 25 to 15 fathoms will be found between them and the south shore in a shingle bay.

It is high water in the ports of Chalky inlet on full and change at 1lh 5m; the range of tide from 4 to 8 feet.

WEST CAPE.---From cape Providence to South point, the south entrance head of Dusky sound, is 13 miles in a N. by W. 1/2 W. direction. West cape lies midway between, and projects about half a mile from the general trend. There are no dangers extending any distance from this coast, and vessels may approach it within a mile; at the distance of 2 miles from the shore, a depth of from 40 to 50 fathoms will be found.

DUSKY SOUND, or Bay, as it was named by Cook when he first discovered the opening, lies between Five Fingers point and South point; the width between being 4 miles. In approaching from the southward, Chalky island will be found a good guide to the entrance; as will also West cape, which will appear as a well defined projecting point of moderate height, dropping a short distance within its extreme, and then rising again with a gradual slope towards the high land.

From the northward, Five Fingers point cannot fail to be recognized; it is the S.W. extreme of Resolution island, which separates Dusky from Breaksea sound: several high pointed rocks stand off its extreme, these, when viewed from certain situations, give it the appearance of the fingers of a man's hand, from which circumstance it received the name from Cook; as that navigator also observes, "the land about the point is still more remarkable by the little similarity it bears to that adjacent to it, being the extreme of a narrow peninsula, lying N.N.E. and S.S.W. for 7 miles, of a moderate and equal height, and covered with wood." Dusky sound runs in an E.NE. direction 22 miles, and is studded with numerous islands and rocks, but has few dangers that are not visible.

ANCHOR ISLAND, 3 1/2 miles long, rising to an elevation of 1,860 feet, lies immediately within the entrance, in the direction of the sound; and is surrounded by a labyrinth of smaller islets. A small harbour on its north side, about the centre of the island, affords secure anchorage, being sheltered from the northward by the Petrel islands, which lie immediately off its entrance. Vessels entering the sound northward of Anchor island, with a strong north wind, and unable to work up for Facile harbour, might find it convenient to anchor here; but otherwise it is not recommended, on account of the difficulty of leaving with the prevailing

[Image of page 231]

winds: a passage in will be found either to the southward or northward of Petrel islands.

Entering by the southern passage, a vessel may pass on either side Entry island, a small island a quarter of a mile S.E. of the large Petrel island; if to the northward, the S.W. end of large Petrel island should be kept close on board, to avoid a sunken rock with 18 feet at low water, which lies S. b. W., one cable's length from that point; if to the southward of Entry island, that island must also be passed close, to enable a vessel with a northerly wind to weather a rock above water that lies nearly in the middle of the harbour entrance. This rock may however be passed on its south side, if necessary; having passed it, steer south-westerly for the entrance of the harbour, distant little more than a quarter of a mile, and anchor in 16 fathoms, a cable's length from the shore: the width of the harbour is about one cable's length. The passage in, to the northward of Petrel islands is the widest, and with a north wind the best; these islands are bold to, and passing between the large Petrel and the east point of the harbour, take up a berth as before directed. Vancouver's ship, the "Discovery," rode out a heavy gale from N.W. here in safety.

South-westerly winds roll a heavy sea into the entrance of Dusky sound, but is broken by the numerous islands; smooth water is found a short distance within.

The principal anchorages in Dusky sound, are Pickersgill harbour, and Cascade cove on the south side, Facile harbour, and Duck cove on the north; temporary anchorages may also be found in other parts, but the depth of water in general is very great, and they cannot be recommended unless in case of necessity.

Vessels entering from the southward with a leading wind should pass about half a mile from the south entrance point, and steer up the sound keeping that shore on board at about the same distance, passing to the southward of all the islets that lie off Anchor island. Soundings in from 20 to 30 fathoms will be found at the entrance, and until abreast the outer end of the islands, when no bottom could be obtained with 80 fathoms line. A reef of rocks above water, or awash, extends one-third of a mile off the south shore, nearly 3 miles within South point, just above two small islets on that shore. The first indentation seen is Shelter cove, three quarters of a mile above this reef; it is only fit for boats.

PICKERSGILL HARBOUR is 5 1/2 miles above the south entrance point, and immediately abreast the west end of Indian island, the latter

[Image of page 232]

is 1 1/2 miles in length, lying in the direction of the sound, and half a mile from the south shore. Crayfish island lies across the entrance of the harbour. The narrow passage in, by which Cook entered, is that westward of this island, but the best channel, nearly a cable's length in width, is to the eastward, avoiding a half-tide rock which lies a short distance from the shore of the main land, and bears S.S.E. from the east end of Crayfish island; by keeping the island close on board, this rock will be cleared, and when within, anchorage may be had in 15 fathoms, a cable's length from the shore. Wood and water may be procured here with much facility, and though a confined anchorage, Cook considered it not inferior to any other in the sound for two or three vessels.

CASCADE COVE is three quarters of a mile above Pickesgill harbour, and has two small islands lying off its entrance; S.E. from their south end, midway between them and the shore, is a rock awash; the cove is one third of a mile in width at its entrance, with a depth of 26 fathoms, and runs 1 1/2 miles in a S.W. 1/2 S. direction; 3/4 of a mile from its entrance, a sandy point projecting from the southern shore, narrows it to less than 2 cables' lengths, but it opens out again above, and good anchorage may be had in from 12 to 15 fathoms for several vessels; the head of the cove terminates in a sandy beach which dries for some distance at low water, and through which flows a considerable stream; the cascade from which this anchorage received its name is on the eastern side of the entrance.

Immediately above Indian island are Long and Cooper islands: these three islands form a chain extending nearly to the head of the sound, with a navigable channel both north and south of them. Long island is 7 miles in length with an average width of about a mile, tapering at either extreme; its west end is almost connected with the eastern extreme of Indian island by a chain of islets and rocks with no ship channel between; Cooper island is 3 1/2 miles in length with a channel between it and the east end of Long island of 2 1/2 cables' lengths in breadth, and a depth of 36 fathoms.

To sail up the sound to the south of these islands, vessels after passing Pickersgill harbour should keep to the southward of the two small islands off Cascade cove; above these islets the channel becomes narrow, in some places not more than 2 cables' lengths wide, the depth of water ranging from 35 to 70 fathoms; in consequence of this, and the high range of almost perpendicular mountains which extend in one unbroken line along the southern side of the sound, the navigation for a sailing vessel

[Image of page 233]

would generally be found tedious and difficult; as the east end of Long island is approached, the channel increases in width to nearly three quarters of a mile, and continues so until advanced half way along the coast of Cooper island, when a cove will be seen on the southern shore but with a depth of water too great for anchorage; above this cove the channel again narrows, and between the east end of Cooper island and the south shore is not more than 120 yards across, with rocks extending from the island shore; the sound extends for 3 1/2 miles above Cooper island, with a breadth of half a mile and terminates in two coves, in the northernmost of which anchorage may be had in 12 fathoms, a cable's length from the sandy beach at its head, through which flow two large and rapid streams.

FACILE HARBOUR, on the north side of Dusky sound, is a deep water anchorage, formed between Parrot and Pigeon islands and the eastern shore of the main, its entrance bearing N.E. by N. 4 1/2 miles from Five Fingers point; Cook recommends this harbour for vessels bound to the southward, and undoubtedly they would get easier to sea, with a northerly or N.W. wind, than from the ports on the southern side.

In entering the sound between Five Fingers point and Anchor island there is a clear working width of 1 1/4 miles without dangers, the depth of water from 50 to 90 fathoms; vessels bound for Facile harbour with a leading wind, after rounding Five Fingers point, should keep the northern shore on board within half a mile until abreast Parrot island 4 miles from the point; when the northern end of this island is rounded the entrance of the harbour will bear east, distant 1 1/4 miles; it lies in the N.E. bight of the bay, and is somewhat less than a cable's length in width with a small islet on either side; there is safe anchorage within, in from 15 to 33 fathoms, and a snug cove in the N.E., corner, where the remains of a large ship still exist. In leaving Facile harbour it will often be convenient with westerly winds to pass between Parrot and Pigeon islands; the channel is scarcely a cable's length wide, with a depth of from 5 to 9 fathoms in the narrowest part; between Pigeon island and the main land there is only a boat channel.

In the bight northward of Facile harbour, are Cormorant and Goose coves, the former has an easterly trend, and is a snug anchorage, with a moderate depth; Goose cove is a shallow tidal estuary, and is separated by a low narrow neck from the head of Wood Hen cove, on the sea lace of Resolution island.

DUCK COVE is easy of access, and is a convenient anchorage for vessels under any circumstances; it lies on the north side of the sound,

[Image of page 234]

3 1/4 miles N.E. 1/4 N. from the north end of Indian island, is a quarter of a mile in width at its entrance, and runs in a N. by W. direction three quarters of a mile, narrowing towards its head to a cable's length; mountains rise on either side to elevations of nearly 3,000 feet, separated by a valley at its head, through which a large stream runs into the cove. H.M.S. Acheron's anchorage was in 11 fathoms, 1 1/2 cables'lengths from a boulder beach on the eastern shore, and half a mile within the entrance.

Vessels bound for Duck cove, and entering Dusky sound by the southern passage, should keep the south shore on board as before directed until reaching Indian island, and after passing a convenient distance along its north side, steer N.E. for the entrance of the cove, where soundings in 30 fathoms will be found,which decrease gradually to 15 and 10 at its head.

If entering from the northward, after passing Anchor island, steer through the channel between its eastern end and the main land; there are no dangers in it but what are visible; leave Useless islands on the port hand, and pass mid-channel between them and the S.E. point of Anchor island, avoiding the Seal rocks awash, which lie S.E. b. E. one quarter of a mile from the latter point; as soon as these are passed steer over towards the eastern end of Indian island, or S.E. b. E. until the sound above opens out, when haul up N.E. along the north shore, and enter the cove as before directed: a small cove will be seen immediately to the westward of Duck cove with an islet at its entrance, but it is too small to afford anchorage.

Close off the outer east point of Duck cove, which is a prominent point, stands the Porpoise rock; and E.S.E, from it, distant three quarters of a mile, on the north coast of Long island, is Detention cove, a small nook where Cook found temporary anchorage in 14 fathoms; from here the sound runs in a N.E. direction with depths varying from 120 to 160 fathoms; 3 miles above Porpoise rock is the entrance of the arm which leads into Breaksea sound; two small islets lie immediately abreast this entrance, borrowing on the Long island shore; within them is a rock awash; 2 miles above and in mid-channel are another small group, Shag isles, from whence the sound continues clear in an E.N.E. direction along the north shore of Cooper island to its head, maintaining an average width of two thirds of a mile, with a great depth of water.

The arm connecting Dusky and Breaksea sounds runs in a N. by W. direction, 8 miles, with an average width of half a mile, and is formed by the eastern sbores of Resolution island and the main land. High, precipitous, and wooded mountains rise on either side to heights varying

[Image of page 235]

from 3,000 to 4,000 feet. Soundings were only obtained in the middle of the channel at depths of 200 fathoms, and so perpendicular are the shores, that 80 fathoms were found within a few feet of them; there are, however, two or three places where an anchor may be dropped if necessary.

The first of these temporary anchorages is in a small sandy bight close within Passage point, the eastern entrance of the arm; here a depth of 13 fathoms will be found, but, being open to a long reach of the sound to the southward, it is exposed to S.W. winds, and is therefore not recommended when any other can be obtained. The second is on Resolution island, in a bight 2 1/2 miles northward of Passage point, and bearing S.W. b. S. from the south entrance point of Wet Jacket sound; here from 9 to 12 fathoms will be found, and a vessel may secure to the trees.

WET JACKET SOUND is a deep indentation penetrating the eastern shore of the arm for a distance of 6 miles in an E.N.E. direction, with a width generally not exceeding one third of a mile; anchorage may be obtained at its head in from 18 to 10 fathoms, but in other parts it is very deep.

The next anchorage is in Occasional cove, on Resolution island; near the north entrance of the arm, 3 miles from Wet Jacket sound; here Cook anchored in 16 fathoms, and moored with a hawser to the shore; the entrance of Breaksea sound is just shut in from this anchorage.

OUTER COAST OF RESOLUTION ISLAND.--Returning now to Five Fingers point and proceeding northwards, the outer coast of Resolution island trends N.N.E., and is somewhat remarkable, as before observed, from being lower than the neighbouring land. 2 miles northward of the point, and a quarter of a mile from the shore, stands a small islet 70 feet high; nearly half a mile from this islet, in a S.W. 1/2 S. direction, is a smaller rock and reef, and half a mile farther in the same direction, a rock which occasionally breaks. These latter dangers extend more than half a mile from the shore, which should not be approached here within half a league. The coast line is now nearly straight to Wood hen cove, a distance of 9 miles from Five Fingers point: this exposed cove is nearly a mile in length, with a width of about a cable, and only shelters boats; from it the coast rounds away N.E. towards the entrance of Breaksea sound.

BREAKSEA SOUND, which is noticed by Cook,--who did not explore it to its head,--as the northern entrance of Dusky bay, in consequence of his having passed to sea through it by the arm which connects the two, already described, has been considered of sufficient extent to demand a

[Image of page 236]

distinctive appellation, it has therefore received the name of Breaksea from the island at its entrance, which was named by that great navigator himself. This island, which is about 3 miles in circumference, and considerably lower than the land of the main, lies N.N.E., 12 miles from Five Fingers point; the entrance of the sound being rather narrow, and surrounded by very high land on either side is not easily distinguished until within a few miles, when Breaksea island, and the smaller islets which lie on the south side of the entrance, will be readily made out; coming in from seaward also, it is remarkable from the comparatively low land to the southward, the first craggy mountains north of Five Fingers point rising over its south side.

There is a passage in on either side of Breaksea island: that to the northward is the best, being a mile in width, and entirely free from dangers. If the south channel is taken, a vessel should pass to the southward of three small islands, south of Breaksea island, between them and Gilbert islands; this passage is not more than half a mile in width. There is a passage between Breaksea island and the three small islands, but it is not recommended, as a long reef extends from the south side of the former island, rendering it very narrow.

Gilbert islands are two distinct groups, more than half a mile apart, extending off the south entrance point of the sound, with an apparently deep bight between them, but which offers no shelter, and is much exposed. The only anchorage among these islands is Stevens cove, a small place, with a depth of 4 fathoms, sufficient only to hold one vessel of moderate tonnage by securing to the trees, and where sand-flies are so numerous that it is scarcely possible to remain on board during the day: this cove is on the main land, just within the eastern group of islands, and to enter it a vessel should pass between the two easternmost of them.

A mile above the eastern Gilbert island, in the middle of the sound, is Entry island. From it the arm leading into Dusky sound runs in a S.S.E. direction, and the main arm of Breaksea sound to the N.E. for 8 miles, when it divides into two arms, one continuing the northeasterly direction 6 miles further, while the other runs easterly for the same distance; the depth of water in both is very great. Half a mile above Entry island 210 fathoms were obtained, and 3 miles above, under a high cliff on the north shore, no less than 288 fathoms; in the arms it is scarcely less, until at their very extremes, where anchorage may be had.

The best anchorage in Breaksea sound is on the south side, 2 1/2 miles above Entry island; inside the islands which extend for 3 miles along

[Image of page 237]

that shore. H.M.S. Acheron anchored in 12 fathoms, off a sandy beach, between the first or outermost island and the mainland, and found excellent shelter: this anchorage may be entered either to the southward of the first island, or round the north end of the second island, which latter is the widest and best passage. Within the islands above this, the water is too deep for anchorage.

There are three coves on the north side of the sound, but the water in them is also inconveniently deep for anchorage. It is high water on full and change, at Duck cove in Dusky sound, at 10h 50m; range of tide from 6 to 10 feet.

DAGGS SOUND. 2--From Breaksea island to the entrance of Daggs sound is 12 miles, the intervening coast, running in a N. b. E. direction, is steep and cliffy, overlooked by high mountain ranges; about midway between, a slight indentation of tin; coast line occurs, and a break in the mountains will be observed, through which flows Coal river. Between Breaksea sound and this river, some high black rocks stand, one third of a mile from the shore, as also smaller scattered rocks nearly the same distance off the projecting points. From the south entrance point of the sound, a cluster of rocks will be seen extending a quarter of a mile off; and one mile north of the north entrance head is a remarkable rocky peninsula point.

The width of the entrance is one mile, which shortly decreases within to 4 cables' lengths; the general trend of the sound is E. b. S. for nearly 5 miles, when it branches into two arms, one taking a N. b. W. direction for 2 miles, and the other running south-easterly the same distance. In the entrance, and for 1 1/4 miles within the heads, soundings will be found in from 20 to 30 fathoms, sand bottom, but as soon as the channel narrows, the depth increases to 70 and 90 fathoms. An unusual feature in these sounds occurs here, in a bank nearly in mid channel, with 4 fathoms at low water, and deep water all round; it lies 2 1/4 miles

[Image of page 238]

within the north entrance point, and half a mile above where the channel begins to narrow, rather on the north shore. Anchorage may be obtained at the head of the north arm, in from 12 to 18 fathoms, 2 cables' lengths from a stony beach, with several streams of fresh water running through it.

The head of this arm communicates, within little more than a mile, of a similar one in Doubtful inlet, the land separating them being remarkably flat for this country, and thickly wooded. The south-east arm, after running 2 miles in that direction, turns sharply to the N.E., and terminates in Jacobs creek, very narrow, with from 8 to 12 fathoms in it.

DOUBTFUL INLET.--The entrance of this extensive inlet lies 7 miles N. by E. from Daggs sound, the intervening coast being of the same character as that to the southward; the depth of water at the distance of a mile from the shore was found to be 188 fathoms; its entrance, more than 2 miles in width, with high mountains rising on either side, presents a wide opening to seaward, and will be clearly distinguished from a long distance. All round peak, and Mount Groznoz, on its northern side from 4,000 to 5,000 feet elevation, are very striking; on a nearer approach Nea islets will be seen extending to the southward from the north entrance head, and from the south entrance point two remarkable peaked rocks, the Hare's Ears, lie at a distance of 3 cables lengths.

The general trend of Doubtful inlet is E. by S. 1/2 S. for 17 miles, with three arms on its south side extending from 3 to 4 miles in a southerly direction; the north side of the inlet is formed by Secretary island, extending 10 miles in a north and south direction, and 5 miles in its widest part; this island separates the entrance of Doubtful inlet from Thompson sound, which are connected by a short arm 8 miles within the entrance of the former.

Nea islets, extending in a S.E. direction nearly a mile from the north head, and Hare's Ears rocks from the southern, contract the entrance of Doubtful inlet to a width of little more than l 1/4 miles, with a depth of from 50 to 60 fathoms; and on entering, a reef awash will be seen extending a quarter of a mile S.W. by S. from the northern Nea islet.

Two miles within the entrance, Bauza island, 3 miles in length, lies in the middle of the channel; there is deep water on either side, but the Goal passage on its south side is the best; the average width of this passage is somewhat less than half a mile, but no soundings were obtained in it at the depth of 80 fathoms; northward of Bauza island, the channel at its eastern end is not more than a cable's length across, and the winds in it will generally be found unsteady.

[Image of page 239]

From the outer or N.W. end of Bauza island, a rocky group,--Shelter islands,--extend in a north-westerly direction in two parallel lines, with a passage between them of 1 1/2 cables in width and a depth of 12 fathoms; at the S.E. end of the northernmost cluster, small craft moor in 10 fathoms between the islets; there is a passage between Shelter islands and the northern shore of the inlet, as also between them and Bauza island, but large vessels are recommended to take the Goal passage in preference.

On the north shore, 1 1/2 miles above Flurry head, (the east point of Bauza island,) is a small anchorage in Blanket bay, 1 1/2 miles eastward of which is Common head, the south-eastern extreme of Secretary island; between it and Wood head, a mile to the S.E., is the passage leading into Thompsons inlet to the northward; this passage is three quarters of a mile across, and has two small islets rather on its eastern shore.

On the south side of Doubtful inlet a mile above Flurry head, is the First arm, running in a south-westerly direction nearly 3 miles, with an average width of 3 cables' lengths and a depth of from 30 to 50 fathoms; anchorage may be had in Snug cove at its head in 12 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the beach. Smith sound, the main branch of the inlet above First arm, continues the E.S.E, trend, with an average breadth of 1 1/4 miles, and having no soundings in its centre at a depth of 120 fathoms; on either side close to the shores there are in places from 17 to 25 fathoms, but no spot where a vessel could drop an anchor.

Crooked arm, on the south shore, 4 miles above First arm, runs in a southerly direction 2 1/2 miles, when it turns sharp to the W.S.W. for an equal distance; the turning point has a high precipice on either side; the breadth of this arm is half a mile, except at the turn where it is somewhat less, and in Haul ashore cove at its head, there is anchorage in 12 fathoms within 3 cables' lengths of the beach, through which flow large streams.

Above Crooked arm, the sound trends slightly more to the southward, and its width is contracted to half a mile; on the north shore, 3 1/2 miles above, is a solitary mountain cone, which looking up the inlet from seaward appears very remarkable; a small round islet lies in the centre of the channel abreast this cone, and immediately above it on the north shore is Elizabeth island, with a channel on either side; a mile above Elizabeth, island, on the same shore, is Deep cove; its northern side a steep precipice, with the Lyvia river running into its head; there is no anchorage in this cove. Rolla island, a small round islet, lies off its south entrance point, and from here Halls arm runs in a S.S.W, direction 4 miles; its entrance, which is one mile above Rolla island, lies between a high steep cliff on the

[Image of page 240]

western shore, and a cliffy peninsula point on the eastern: N.W. b. N. 2 cables' lengths from the latter point is a reef awash; the width between the two entrance points is only a quarter of a mile, but within it opens out to three quarters of a mile, with a long beach of sand and shingle on the eastern shore, a cable's length from which there is no bottom with 70 fathoms; above this beach the arm narrows gradually to its head, which reaches within 2 miles of an arm of Breaksea sound.

Thee general depth of water in Doubtful inlet is very great; in the main arm soundings were rarely obtained under 120 fathoms, and in the smaller branches from 40 to 70 fathoms; the anchorages are few and not easily found by sailing vessels, with the exception of the small craft anchorage between Shelter islands, that in Blanket bay, and at the heads of the First and Crooked arms, tberc is no place where a vessel could find shelter in a moderate depth of water.

THOMPSON SOUND. --The western shore of Secretary island, which forms the coast line between Doubtful and Thompson sounds, is almost straight, and runs in a N.N.E. direction for 8 miles to Colonial head, the north extreme of the island and south entrance point of the inlet; at the distance of little more than a mile from this coast no soundings were obtained at a depth of 300 fathoms.

The main arm of this sound has a general trend of S.E. for 10 miles to its junction with Doubtful inlet, when it turns to the N.E. by E. for a further distance of 8 miles, and thence S.E. 4 miles. The entrance is only half a mile in width, but is perfectly free from dangers, with a depth of 75 fathoms. For the first 1 1/2 miles it runs in a S.E. direction, at which distance Open cove will be seen on the east shore: from 15 to 20 fathoms will be found in this cove; but it is exposed to N W winds: 2 miles southward of Open cove is a projecting peninsula, with a deep indentation on either side of it. Neck cove, on the north, has several rocks in it, and is open and exposed.

DEAS COVE, on its south side, though small, is a secure and sheltered anchorage; it lies in a N. by E. direction for 3 cables' lengths with a width less than one cable: the depth of water is from 6 to 16 fathoms. On the west shore the cliffs are steep-to; the eastern shore shoals for a short distance off. H.M.S. Acheron's anchorage was in 10 fathoms, rather on the west shore, a cable's length from the sandy beach at the head, secured also by hawsers to the shore; this is the only convenient anchorage in Thompson's inlet.

From Deas cove the inlet resumes its south-easterly trend with an average width of three quarters of a mile, as far as Common head;

[Image of page 241]

the depth of water is very great; just above Deas cove, in mid channel, soundings were obtained in 200 fathoms, mud bottom.

Bradshaw sound, a continuous arm running N.E. by E. 8 miles, is similar in feature to the outer part of the inlet. McDonald island lies close off its north shore 1 1/2 miles from the head, and in the bay immediately to the westward there is anchorage in 10 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the shore. Precipice cove, which forms the head of the sound above McDonald island, is bounded on either side by high perpendicular cliifs; in the middle there is no bottom at 120 fathoms, but very close to its head, which terminates in a river, there is 10 fathoms; from abreast McDonald cove, Gaer arm runs to the S.E. 4 miles, with three low islands at its head, outside which it dries at low water; the soundings in this arm are from 40 to 20 fathoms, and anchorage may be had in Shoal cove at its head, in from 14 to 6 fathoms, at the distance of half a mile from the islands.

It is high water on full and change in Deas cove, at llh 30m; the range of tide from 4 to 8 feet.

NANCY SOUND.--The entrance of this sound is 3 miles from Thompson sound, and is well denoted by Turn peak, a conspicuous sharp peaked mountain rising over its northern side to an elevation of 4,120 feet; this peak will be distinguished from a long distance seaward, and presents the same appearance viewed from any point. When within 5 or 6 miles of the port, a remarkable reddish coloured patch caused by a land slip will be seen on the high land immediately northward of the entrance; also a white patch on the lower part of the cliffs both north and south of the heads, produced by a similar cause; two rugged islets project to seaward from the south entrance point 2 cables' lengths, and Entrance islet, a flat-topped rock, oO feet high, lies off the north entrance point; the channel in is to the southward of this rock, and is not more than 3 cables' length in width, with a depth of 30 fathoms.

There is a channel northward of Entrance islet, but a sunken rock lies in the middle, and although the depth of water is sufficient, it is only adapted for boats; the bank of soundings, common to most of these sounds, extends across the mouth of this, with from 30 to 40 fathoms water, but does not continue sufficiently far within to enable vessels to take advantage of it for anchoring.

The trend of Nancy sound on entering is E. 1/2 S. for 1 1/4 miles, when it expands to a width of three quarters of a mile, and runs in a southeasterly direction nearly 5 miles, gradually decreasing in width to 3 1/2 cables' lengths, the soundings from 130 to 90 fathoms, and the shores steep

[Image of page 242]

to on either side. A small islet lies close off Bend point, the upper north point of this arm; half a mile S. b. W. 1/2 W. from this islet anchorage in 15 fathoms will be found in Heel cove, a hundred yards from the stony beach; from here the sound turns abruptly to the N.E. b. E. for a distance of 2 miles, with a width of 3 1/2 cables' lengths, and terminates in a stony beach, where anchorage may also be had close to the shore; the soundings in this latter arm are from 70 to 30 fathoms.

CHARLES SOUND is 4 miles to the N.N.E. of Nancy sound with a straight coast between, on which are one or two boulder beaches; at the distance of little more than a mile from the entrance no bottom was found at the depth of 250 fathoms. Turn peak just noticed rising midway between it and Nancy sound, serves as a good guide to the entrance; from the points to the northward several scattered rocks extend, and one, rather remarkable from being detached, will be seen a quarter of a mile from the shore.

The trend of Charles sound for 4 miles is S.E., with a width of half a mile, the depths at the entrance are from 38 to 55 fathoms, increasing within to 110 fathoms. Three miles from the entrance, close to the north shore, is a small islet, with a cove within, but the shores are steep and rocky, and it is exposed and too small for anchorage; there is good landing for boats on the upper side of the islet; a mile above the islet the sound divides into two arms, one running E. by N. 3 miles, the other S.S.E. for the same distance; the average width of these arms is 3 cables' lengths, and their depth from 30 to 50 fathoms.

Eleanor island lies at the entrance of the eastern arm, and has a deep-water channel on either side. Near the head of the southern arm are two small groups of low islands, with three rocks above water, to the eastward of the first group; these rocks, as also the islets, must be passed on their eastern sides, and anchorage may be obtained above the rocks, in from 14 to 20 fathoms. Vessels, however, are not recommended to run for Charles sound; there is no convenient anchorage, and the sounds on either side of it are to be preferred.

CASWELL SOUND.--The coast line between Charles and Caswell sounds, a distance of little more than 3 miles, is extremely rugged, with a ridge of high rocks extending from the shore for 3 cables' lengths midway between. Unlike any other part of this coast, the water is shoal for a short distance off, with irregular bottom. From 20 to 30 fathoms will be found at the distance of half a mile, but even under favourable circumstances, vessels should not approach nearer than a mile.

[Image of page 243]

The entrance of Caswell sound is narrowed by an island detached from the south head, with a small reef awash off its north end, leaving n passage between it and the north entrance head of 3 1/2 cables' lengths in width. To the southward of the island is a boat channel, with a sunken rock in its outer entrance. A narrow belt of shoal water extends partly across the entrance half a mile outside the island, with from 20 to 40 fathoms on it, but immediately within no bottom is found at the depth of 120 fathoms.

The trend of the sound is S.E. 1/2 S. for l 3/4 miles from the north head, when it turns to the eastward, and increases to the width of a mile; 2 1/2 miles within the entrance, on the south side, is a projection,--Dog point,-- from whence the sound runs E.S.E, for a further distance of 2 1/2 miles, narrowing gradually to a width of half a mile. The shores are very steep on either side, 100 fathoms being obtained within a cable's length, but in mid channel no bottom at 130 fathoms.

Close to the north shore, at the head of the reach which runs E.S.E., is the Boat rock, just awash at high water; a shoal patch of sand extends round this rock, on which, just above the rock, a vessel may drop her anchor in 4 fathoms if necessary, but it is very steep. From hence the sound runs easterly 3 miles, and the best anchorage is 1 1/2 miles above boat rock, in a small bight to the eastward of a wooded islet, just detached from the north shore. Here there are 12 fathoms, but the bank is so steep that a stout hawser should be carried to the trees on the east point of the cove, to prevent being driven off by a flaw of wind from the high land. The general depth of water in the sound, above Boat rock, is from 80 to 20 fathoms, at its head is a shallow flat.

GEORGE SOUND.--From the north head of Caswells sound, a steep and iron bound coast line, broken only by two small bights,--Two Thumb, and Looking Glass bays,--trends N.N.E. 1/2 E. towards George sound, the entrance of which is distant 13 miles. Two Thumb bay, 3 miles north of Caswells sound, is a mere indentation of the coast, strewed with rocks, which also front the shore, for 3 miles to the northward, or as far as Looking Glass bay. The latter bay penetrates the coast in an easterly direction one mile, and is a quarter of a mile in width at its entrance, but wider within; the depth of water is from 9 to 7 fathoms, sand bottom, with a round beach at its head, composed of large boulder stones; it is quite open to the westward.

The Houseroof, a remarkable rock of that shape a short distance off shore, is 2 1/2 miles northward of Looking Glass bay; from it the coast

[Image of page 244]

trends slightly more to the eastward, broken with shingle beaches,--for 4 miles to the entrance of George sound; no bottom was obtained at the distance of a mile from this stretch of coast just described, at the depth of 100 fathoms, except abreast Houseroof rock, where soundings were struck in 72 fathoms, rocky bottom.

The first reach of George sound runs S.E. 1/2 S. 7 miles, is nearly a mile wide at the entrance, and preserves that width as far up as the anchorage, a distance of 6 miles. 22 fathoms were found half a mile off the south head, but rapidly deepening within to 50, 80, and 106 fathoms. With the exception of two small rocky islets on the eastern side, 2 miles within the entrance; and a rock awash one mile within the south head, nearly a cable's length from the western side, the shores are free from danger; and this sound is easier of access and egress than most of the others, in consequence of its greater width, and the winds generally blowing with more steadiness up and down it.

There is good anchorage in 15 fathoms, in a cove on the north shore, nearly at the head of the first reach; with N.W. gales, a swell sets in, but by hauling over to the north shore, and securing to the trees, a vessel will lie in smooth water; the head of this cove is a sandy beach through which flows a rapid river, with 2 feet on its bar at low water. A mile above, the sound trends to the E.S.E, for 3 miles, and then sends off two arms to the S.E. and S.W., the latter extending nearly 3 miles, and the former 1 1/2, with an islet towards the head of each. At the head of the S.E. arm is a small cove or basin, and about 200 feet above the level of the sea in an extensive lake, whose superfluous waters run into it by an easy descent down the mountain side, causing a considerable outset in the harbour. The depth of water in the upper arms varies from 40 to 14 fathoms.

George sound is surrounded by mountains of the most rugged and precipitous character; a very striking one rises over its western side 3 miles above the entrance, to an elevation of 4,775 feet, and a range still more striking and perpendicular, on either side of its head, to nearly 5,000 feet.

BLIGH SOUND is nearly 6 miles N.E. by N. from George sound, the intervening coast being cliffy, slightly indented, and of the same general character as that already described. Two remarkable mountains, 3 miles within the north entrance point, Mount Longsight and Table mountain, the former 4,600 feet in elevation, will serve to point out the entrance from a long distance seaward in clear weather.

[Image of page 245]

This sound has three reaches, the outer, which is 2 miles in width at its entrance, runs S.E. by E. 3 3/4 miles, and narrows gradually to Turn-round or entrance point of the second reach, where it is only 2 cables' lengths across: the depth of water between the heads is from 30 to 40 fathoms, deepening rapidly within as the channel narrows. From Turn-round point the second reach turns sharply to the S.S.W., and runs in that direction 4 1/2 miles, with an average width of half a mile, and a depth of 70 to 80 fathoms. On the eastern shore of this reach, three quarters of a mile from its head, is Amazon cove, a small craft anchorage; above it, the Third arm, or Bounty haven turns sharp again to the S.S.E., carrying a width of 4 cables' lengths for 1 1/2 miles to its head, where there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms close to a stonoy flat, through which flows a considerable stream; 3 wild looking lofty mountains rise abruptly from either shore. From the narrow bends of this sound, it would generally be found difficult of access to a sailing vessel.

From Bligh sound to Milford sound, a distance of 16 miles, the coast continues its general trend of N.E. by N, broken by Little and Poison bays, both unfit for anchorage, and which lie at distances of 3 and 8 miles respectively from the former sound, the bold and cliffy coast line between them projecting to the N.W., about a mile from the general trend; in passing along this shore, at a distance of little more than a mile, no bottom was found with from 70 to 160 fathoms line.

MILFORD SOUND, the northernmost of the series of inlets now described, though comparatively inconsiderable in extent, yet, in remarkable feature and magnificent scenery, far surpasses them all: the mountains by which it is surrounded are the highest on the coast, with the exception of Mount Cook, 120 miles to the north-eastward. Pembroke Peak, about 3 miles inland, perpetually snow capped, rises over its northern side to an elevation of 6,700 feet, and Llawrenny peaks, a very remarkable saddle-backed mountain, attains nearly the same elevation on the southern side; but perhaps the most striking feature is the dome-shaped Mitre, rising abruptly to a height of 5,560 feet immediately over the south side of the sound, nearly bare of vegetation, and from its peculiar colour, resembling a huge mountain of metal; these alpine features, and its narrow entrance, apparently still more contracted by the stupendous

[Image of page 246]

cliffs which rise perpendicular as a wall from the water's edge to a height of several thousand feet, invest Milford sound with a character of solemnity and grandeur which description can barely realize.

From seaward, the entrance makes as a bay, of which St. Ann's is the south point, and Yates point the northern; they are 5 miles apart in a N. 1/4 E. direction, and near St. Ann's is a remarkable jib-shaped white stripe.

BRIG ROCK, 10 feet above water, lies three quarters of a mile outside a line between these two points, and bears N. by W., distant 3 miles from St. Ann's; it is three quarters of a mile from the shore, with a reef of rocks encircling it for a distance of 2 cables' lengths.

After rounding St. Ann's point, which is low and rocky, Fox point, with a small islet close off it, lies half a mile to the S.E., and immediately round it, in Anita bay, convenient anchorage will be found in from 12 to 18 fathoms, with the small islet bearing north about a cable's length distant. Here a vessel will be sheltered from N.W. winds; with those from north a swell rolls round the point; by anchoring half a cable off shore, and hauling close in with hawsers fast to the trees, H.M.S. Acheron found considerable shelter.

From Anita bay the sound runs up in a funnel shape S.E. 1/2 E. for 1 1/2 miles, when the narrow entrance is reached, it here barely exceeds 1/4 mile in width, towering perpendicular cliffs rising on either side, the soundings in mid-channel being 60 fathoms; the sound then trends in an easterly and S.E. b. E. direction for 6 1/2 miles between stupendous cliffy walls, the widtli varying from one third, to three quarters of a mile; a cable's length from the highest cliffs on the north shore near a large waterfall, 214 fathoms mud was obtained; the general depth of water must be very great as no other soundings could be gained with 180 fathoms of line, except close to the head of the sound.

Four miles above the entrance, on the north shore, is Harrison's cove, a confined and deep water anchorage, with a steep and winding valley running down to it from Pembroke peak; the head of Milford sound terminates in two coves or basins separated by a low tongue of wooded land fronted by a steep-to tidal boulderbank. In the eastern of these coves, H.M.S. Acheron moored in 12 fathoms; this basin is only 100 yards wide at its entrance, with a bar of 3 1/2 fathoms at low water; it opens out within to the width of a cable's length. A magnificent waterfall of 700 feet close to the entrance serves as a guide to this fresh water basin. --The western cove is larger, with a greater depth of water inside, but its entrance is shallower.

It is high water on full and change, at llh 15m; the range of tide from 4 to 8 feet.

[Image of page 247]

COAST NORTHWARD OF MILFORD SOUND.--From Milford sound to Yates point, a distance of 5 miles in a N. by W. direction, the high wooded slopes are fronted by a succession of sandy or shingle bays, with straggling rocks extending some distance off the points. The channel within the Brig rock has not been examined, vessels are therefore recommended to pass outside; 20 fathoms sand and gravel will be found half a mile from it.

From Yates point the coast trends N. by E. 1/2 E. 13 miles; 2 miles northward of the point, and half a mile from the shore is a patch of detached rocks, and again to the northward are three deep sandy bays, in the northernmost of which is the Awarua river. From the projecting rocky point 1 1/2 miles north of this river the coast trends N.N.E., 28 miles to Cascade point, and is apparently free from dangers, excepting the Seal rocks, which extend a short distance from the shore about midway between the two points, and a small rocky islet 3 miles southward of Cascade point half a mile off a sandy beach. The land immediately over the coast is steep and of moderate height, but is backed by lofty and rugged mountain ranges; Barn bay, an indentation 6 miles southward of Cascade point, has a remarkable sharp peak rising over its south point, off which are two barn-shaped islets.

CASCADE POINT is a steep projecting bluff, or rather line of cliffs of moderate height, the face bare, and striped by numerous falls of water, which after rains pour down its steep sides, and are visible a considerable distance seaward; from this circumstance it has derived its name. Immediately south of these cliffs and near the coast, is a remarkable dome-shaped mountain, and inland a snow capped range of great height, with peaks of every variety of shape and ruggedness.

From Cascade point, the projecting point of Jacksons bay bears N.E. by E. 1/2 E. distant 10 miles; this latter is a remarkable point rising boldly from the sea with a low neck, separating it from higher land; it will be readily recognized approaching from any direction, the coast between it and Cascade point being a sandy bight, and that to the eastward, a straight sandy beach 20 miles in extent, with low land stretching a few miles from the beach; 48 fathoms rocky bottom, will be found between Cascade point and Jacksons bay at the distance of 4 miles from the land; a heavy swell generally sets on this coast, which renders a cautious approach necessary.

JACKSON BAY is 55 miles northward of Milford sound, and at the south end of the long extent of sandy beach just mentioned. This bay is occasionally visited by whale ships from the facility of gaining or leaving the anchorage, as also for chance supplies of vegetables

[Image of page 248]

from the natives; it affords good protection from southerly or westerly winds, and some shelter even as far round as N.N.W., but between that bearing and N.E. is perfectly open. In making for the anchorage Jackson point must be given a berth of half a mile, as several rocks above water and awash, extend nearly that distance from it; on rounding these rocks, a small conical islet with bushes on the summit, will be seen a short distance from the western shore; the anchorage is in 7 fathoms sand, a short half mile to the S.E. of this islet.

There would be no difficulty in quitting Jackson bay at the commencement of a north-west gale, and it would not then be prudent to remain, as, in the event of the wind backing round to the north, a vessel would be exposed to great risk. Northerly gales 4 are generally preceded by a swell setting into the bay; 2 miles from the anchorage is a native village, at the mouth of a small stream, where there are small cultivations; there are also larger patches further to the northward a short distance inland; boats can only land on the beach here in moderate weather; to the N.E. of the river there is always a surf.

With the exception of the roadstead under cape Foulwind in southerly winds, Jackson bay is the northernmost anchorage on this coast where shelter can be procured for large vessels, and there is only one other available for small craft, Wanganui inlet, 8 miles southward of cape Farewell.

CURRENT. The current which has been noticed as setting to the southward at the rate of nearly a mile an hour along the S. W. coast of the Middle island is not much felt to the northward of Milford sound, and off Jackson bay may be said to cease; from this cause, as also the more frequent occurrence of southerly and S. W. winds, the difficulty experienced by sailing vessels in getting to the northward is considerably lessened.

COAST N.E, OF JACKSON BAY.--From Jackson bay the general trend of the coast is N. E. 1/2 N. for 80 miles, or as far as Abut head; the first 20 miles is a nearly straight sandy beach with two small rivers towards its northern end: three conical wooded hills rise out of the low land which extends for some distance inland from this beach; the southernmost is the highest and most remarkable, it is 2 miles from the beach, and bears East distant 6 miles from the anchorage in Jackson bay.

[Image of page 249]

OPEN BAY ISLETS are a small rocky group lying off the coast 8 miles from the sandy beach; bearing from Jackson point N.E., distant 13 miles; they are surrounded by sunken rocks which extend nearly 3 miles to the S.W. and one mile to the westward and N.E.; vessels should pass outside this group; 3 miles to the westward of them 17 fathoms will be found, increasing to 30 shortly after passing them to the northward.

ARNOTT POINT, 7 miles from the north end of the long sandy beach, is the first projecting cliffy headland north of Jacksons bay, and has a high conical hill over it; the great southern Alps here send their steep spurs down to the coast, and in clear weather the summit of the snow-capped and magnificent Mount Cook, distant 50 miles, will be seen rising in two distinct peaks 12,200 and 13,200 feet above the sea, with their base generally enveloped in clouds; this is the highest mountain in New Zealand, and justly bears the great navigator's name; in character and ruggedness of outline it resembles the Kaikora mountain range on the east side of the island.

COAST from ARNOTT POINT to ABUT HEAD. --From Arnott point the coast is cliffy and almost straight for 15 miles to Titihai head 5 with scattered rocks extending off the points about one third of a mile; the soundings 5 miles from the land vary from 60 to 46 fathoms, sand; on the next 18 miles of coast line are three sandy bays, the projecting bluffs which separate them from the low land on either side, having the appearance from seaward of islands lying near the coast; the northern of these bays is the most extensive, and has a remarkable range of turreted parapet land near the coast, its north bluff being a conspicuous yellow cliff; Mount Cook approaches within 18 miles of this part of the coast. Abreast these sandy bays the off-shore soundings decrease, at the distance of 10 miles varying from 46 to 33 fathoms dark sand and mud.

From the Yellow cliffs, the coast is a succession of rocky points and bluffs with occasional sandy beaches between, as far as Abut head, a further distance of 20 miles; three of these projections are remarkable, Long point (7 miles S.W. from Abut head) tapering to the sea from a lofty spur of the high mountain range inland, terminates in a low cliffy extreme; White head, 2 miles further north, is a bluff point so named

[Image of page 250]

on account of its colour; while Abut head is a strikingly bold headland abutting on the coast as a spur from the lofty Mount Cook; between the Yellow cliffs and this headland no soundings were obtained with 45 fathoms line 6 miles from the shore.

COAST from ABUT HEAD to the N.E.--From Abut head to Matungitawau point, bearing N.N.E. 1/2 E., distant 68 miles, the coast is for the greater part low and sandy, falling a little back from a straight line, and with few remarkable features. The mountain ranges, which are here of moderate elevation, recede from 20 to 30 miles from the coast, and appear intersected by several valleys or passes, through which there is possibly communication with the Canterbury plains; the breadth of the island in these localities being about 85 miles.

N.E. 1/2 N, 18 miles from Abut head, is a cliffy projection about 3 miles in extent, the intervening coast is composed of low cliffs, fronted by a sandy beach, through which the small river Wanganui runs into the sea, 11 miles from Abut head; a rather remarkable hill or headland, close to the coast, rises over the south bank of this river.

BOLD HEAD (Paramata). 6 --12 miles N.E. of the cliffy projection is Bold head, as its name imports, a bluff point, standing out from the low coast on either side of it; but lying in a bight or recess of the coast, it forms no very prominent object from seaward.

Between Bold head and Matungi-tawau point, a distance of 40 miles, is a nearly straight sandy beach, intersected by three rivers, and some smaller streams; the southern of these rivers, Brunner, or Arehura, is 16 miles from Bold head; Taramakau is 12 miles further north, and the Grey, or Mawhera river is at the north extreme of the beach, 5 miles south of Matungi-tawau point; the latter river alone is said to be navigable for small craft.

GREY or MAWHERA river 7 flows through an extensive valley running in an easterly direction about 12 miles, when it divides, one branch taking a northerly and easterly direction towards the centre of the island, the other runs south-easterly, communicating with the Brunner lakes, from whence there is a native pass to the Canterbury plains.

[Image of page 251]

The soundings on the coast between Abut and Bold heads, at the distance of 15 miles off shore from the former, is 49 fathoms, and at 12 miles from the latter, 25 fathoms, dark sand; proceeding northward, from 53 to 22 fathoms will be found 6 miles from the coast until abreast Taramakau river, between which and Grey river, at the same distance from the land, are from 20 to 17 fathoms.

Matungi-tawau point is a remarkable double bluff, of moderate height, composed of limestone cliffs, with a sandy cove between. From this point the coast trends N. 1/2 E., with cliffy shores and scattered rocks extending in some parts half a mile from the shore. A range of snowy mountains, four leagues inland, runs parallel with the coast, extending to cape Foulwind, occasionally attaining elevations exceeding 6,000 feet; nearer the coastline is a lower range, rendered remarkable by the irregular and varying outline of their summits.

Point Perpendicular, and Ti-Miko cliffs, 16 miles northward of Matungi-tawau point, is a bold projection of the coast, rising abruptly from the sea; this and the lower range of mountains, with their peculiar jagged outlines just alluded to, render this part of the coast very striking; the latter is probably the Five fingers range of D'Urville. 8

The next projecting point, a saddle-shaped summit, is 10 miles to the northward, the Five fingers rocks standing about half a mile off' the coast, which is here formed of low terrace land. The highest peak of the snowy range, 6,380 feet high, is 15 miles eastward of this point.

Robertson point, 5 miles N.N.E. 1/2 E. from the Five fingers rocks, is the termination of the cliffs; a small river runs in just to the northward of it: here the high land recedes, and the country becomes low and thickly wooded, with a sandy coast line extending to cape Foulwind, distant 10 miles. The soundings, at 6 miles from the coast, between Matungi-tawau point and this cape, varies from 30 to 50 fathoms, sand.

CAPE FOULWIND (Tauranga) is rendered remarkable by three rocks (the Steeples), which lie off it, and also by the coast turning sharply to the eastward from it. The cape itself is a low cliffy point, well wooded, the land within rising gently to the base of the mountains to the southward. The coast, 2 1/2 miles southward of cape Foulwind, is fronted by rocky islets, within which, in the small sandy bay of Tauranga, the sealing boats land. Under cape Foulwind vessels may find shelter in southerly winds.

[Image of page 252]

The STEEPLES are three conical rocks, visible at a distance of 10 or 12 miles from a vessel's deck, and show prominently from the southward; they occupy a space of 1 1/2 miles, and bear N. 1/2 W., their northern extreme being distant 2 1/2 miles from the cape. Several smaller rocks awash are scattered within and about them; the narrow channel between them and the cape is rocky, and only fit for boats.

COAST FROM CAPE FOUL WIND TO ROCKS POINT.-- From cape Foulwind the coast recedes to the eastward, and forms an extensive bight, of which Rocks point is the northern limit; this latter point bears from the cape N. by E., distant 54 miles, the depth of the bight from a straight line between the two points being about 5 leagues.

BULLER or KAWATIRI RIVER. 9 --The entrance of this river, which bears east, distant 7 1/2 miles from cape Foulwind, is one of the largest in New Zealand. It has its source in the lakes Rotuaro and Rotuiti, 40 miles south-westward of Nelson. In its course to the sea it receives the accession of several smaller streams, and becomes a river of considerable magnitude, varying in width from a quarter to a third of a mile; it is subject, however, to very heavy freshes from the mountain torrents, and rises with great rapidity, frequently between rocky gorges and cliffs, so perpendicular as to be in places inaccessible. From these causes, as well as from the shallow bar at its entrance, and the barrenness of the country through which it flows, it will probably never become of any great importance as a navigable river. The valley of the Buller forms an extensive gap between the high mountains which bound it on either side; running in a south-easterly direction several miles, and is remarkable from seaward. These snowy mountain ranges extend parallel with the coast, at varying distances of three to four leagues, nearly as far as cape Farewell.

From the mouth of the Buller river, the coast line, which is low and wooded, fronted by a narrow strip of sandy beach, and intersected by several small streams, trends to the N.E. and N.N.E. 23 miles; when nearly in the extreme depth of the bight, the sandy beach is succeeded by a remarkable line of cliffs, which extend 12 miles. Towards their northern extreme are two very conspicuous white bluffs, visible a long distance from seaward.

The Wanganui river runs into the sea 2 1/2 miles northward of these bluffs, at the commencement of a sandy beach, which runs in a straight line 14 miles N.N.W. 1/4 W., intersected by three small rivers, Mahana, Karamea,

[Image of page 253]

and Parara, near its central part, and a fourth, the Kollahai, at its northern extreme. Near the latter river the cliffs again occur; and the coast, which now trends N. by W. 3/4 W. 11 miles to Rocks point, is indented by numerous small sandy bays with rocky projections between.

The Heaphy, or Wakapoai river, whose entrance between two high bluffs sloping to the sea is remarkable, lies 4 1/2 miles south of Rocks point.

The depth of water across the entrance of this great bight, from cape Foulwind to abreast the two white bluffs in its depth, is from 30 to 40 fathoms; it then deepens, and at the distance of 5 miles from the cliffy shore, between Kollahai river and Rocks point, no soundings were obtained at depths of from 50 to 60 fathoms.

ROCKS POINT, which received its name from the numerous scattered rocks extending about half a mile from the shore in its neighbourhood, is a bold projection, from which the coast rounds away N.N.E. towards cape Farewell, distant 37 miles.

Kaurangi point, with a reef extending from it a short distance to the 8. W. is 11 miles to the N.N.E. of Rocks point, and has on its northern face a remarkable white stripe caused by aland slip; this is a good seamark, and visible from a long distance. A sandy beach now extends northward 13 miles, interrupted by an occasional cliffy projection; towards the N.E. extreme of this beach a white patch of sand will be observed, just within high water mark; a bank of shoal water extends half a mile off its southern end; this patch will denote the approach to Wanganui inlet in coming from the southward, its entrance being 8 miles to the N.E., with some cliffy points intervening.

WANGANUI INLET.--The entrance shows distinctly from seaward; the points are somewhat remarkable, being high and sloping gradually to the sea, with more elevated land behind; the south head, after sloping, rises again in a cone from the water's edge, and presents a yellowish cliffy appearance; Mount Burnett, or Knuckle hill, with its double summit, which is so conspicuous an object in Massacre bay, bears E.S.E, distant 6 miles from the entrance.

The bar, which stretches across from the heads, has 6 feet at low water, and may be crossed at high water by vessels of from 10 to 12 feet draught, the deepest channel being close along the southern shore; when inside the water deepens to 3 and 4 fathoms. The inlet, after running in a S.W. by S. direction for little more than a mile, separates into two arms, taking a north-east and south-west direction or parallel with the coast; the northeast arm is shallow, and almost dries at low water; there is anchorage

[Image of page 254]

in 4 fathoms a mile within the entrance close on the southern shore; to enter, moderate weather and a leading wind is necessary; S.W. winds blow down the southern arm, and generally right out of the harbour.

The bar at the entrance has not been closely examined, but vessels of the draught before mentioned have crossed it; it is high water on the full and change at 9h 2Om; the springs rise 6 and 7 feet.

COAST TO CAPE FAREWELL,--From Wanganui inlet the coast trends N.E. 1/2 N. to cape Farewell, distant 8 miles; Curious cliff, 3 1/2 miles from cape Farewell, is a remarkable piece of table land, its northern end having fallen away by a land slip; close to the shore, in front of it, is a small perforated rock, Archway islet; several scattered rocks lie off the adjacent coast, apparently fragments broken from the cliffs.

Coming from the southward, the land about cape Farewell has a hummocky appearance, and is of moderate height, the extreme falling down in broken cliffs, where it joins Farewell spit. At the proper navigating distance of 3 miles from this coast the soundings range from 36 to 40 fathoms.

When cape Farewell bears South about 3 miles distant, an E. by N. 1/2 N. course leads nearly 4 miles outside Farewell spit, in from 39 to 34 fathoms, fine grey sand; the high sand mound, near the centre of the spit, will be seen in passing at this distance, as will also, from aloft, the bushes on its eastern high water extreme.

S.W. WINDS.--It is necessary to observe that a S.W. wind on this part of the coast generally veers to the westward, and draws into Cook strait after passing cape Farewell,

The marks for clearing the end of Farewell spit have been already given in the portion of this work which treats of those places.

TIDES--On the outer coast of Cape Farewell it is high water on full and change at 9h 0m; the flood stream commences at 6h Om, and runs to the south-west, parallel with the coast as far as Wanganui Inlet, at the rate of from 1/2 to 2 knots.