1873 - Kennedy, A. New Zealand - CHAPTER V.

[Image of page 125]

CHAPTER V.

[Image of page 126]

[Page 126 is blank]

[Image of page 127]

CHAPTER V.

ON November 14, 1845, Sir George Grey arrived at Auckland as successor to Captain FitzRoy in the government of New Zealand. While a young man,

[Image of page 128]

Sir George Grey had explored an unknown tract of territory in Australia, lying betwixt Adelaide and the Swan River settlements, and had written a sketch of his journey, in which he suggested and described a system of policy, considered to be well adapted for ameliorating the condition of the aborigines of that country. He dedicated this book to Lord Glenelg, at that time Colonial Minister. The work was favourably received, and very shortly after its publication Captain Grey was appointed Governor of South Australia. He was then selected to occupy the important post of administering the affairs of New Zealand, in a period of difficulty and emergency, and a ship of war was despatched from India in order to take him as early as possible to his destination. Sir George Grey is a man with abilities of a high order, his capacity for administration undoubted, and if he had devoted his energies, faithfully and fearlessly, with justice and magnanimity, to the adjudication of the conflicting claims and affairs of the two races which he was sent to govern, he would have retired, after his long and eventful service in New Zealand, with the character of a great man, and the reputation of an enlightened statesman, instead of being viewed as merely successful in achieving personal distinction in an ambitious career.

The measures of his government in New Zealand were in many ways statesmanlike, but shaped and shaded with such strong tendencies to arbitrary power that their practical importance was impaired, and they failed to inspire confidence in either the Maories or the colonists.

Homer narrates that the god Apollo fell in love with Cassandra, the beautiful daughter of Priam,

[Image of page 129]

King of Troy, and in order to conciliate her favour, offered to confer upon her any gift worthy of a god to bestow. The beautiful girl, proud of having captivated the great Apollo, and conscious of her powers of fascination, asked her lover to endow her with the gift of prophecy, which he, to gratify her, accordingly bestowed. Having obtained this gift, the youthful and lovely girl, like a petted beauty presuming on her attractions, displayed her caprice by jilting the amorous god, who, in revenge, and as a punishment for her perfidy, rendered her gift of prophecy worthless, by adding to it the condition that everything she said should be disbelieved.

In such like manner Sir George Grey must have offended, in some way or other, the deity who had bestowed such a high order of gifts upon him, and, in order to punish him for his transgressions, then rendered them comparatively ineffective, by casting over all his acts a shadow of suspicion, and raising the spectre of distrust, which haunted all his policy and measures, and caused that want of confidence with which they were regarded by the people of both races. Still he was an accomplished statesman, a man of mark, whose mind,

These lines well characterise Sir George Grey's long and eventful administration in New Zealand.

[Image of page 130]

Like Cardinal Wolsey, in the famous character drawn. of him by Shakespeare, he was in the habit of 'making his own opinion his law,' and to such an extent was this mental idiosyncrasy sometimes displayed, that it bordered on absurdity, reminding some of us forcibly of Lord Lauderdale's well known maxim, 'Show me the man and I'll show you the law.' 1 While his great abilities as a writer of despatches and State papers imparted a fascinating character, and a rose-coloured hue, to his proceedings, in a dependency lying at that distance 'which lends enchantment to the view.'

When Sir George Grey arrived in New Zealand, he found that the Maories had begun 'to pale their ineffectual fires' before the power and endurance of British troops, and although they had experienced no defeat of importance, still the loss they had sustained at the storming of Russell, and in their encounter with M'Lerie, convinced them that they were no match for us in arms. The daily, I may say hourly, harassment to which they were, exposed by our system of conducting military operations, had completely worn out their strength and endurance. From this cause, as well as from that want of discipline and organisation which characterises the warfare of all uncivilised people, the insurrection had in a great measure lost its vigour. Heki, after deserting his pah at Ohaiawai, removed his followers to Ruapeckapecka, where he commenced building

[Image of page 131]

another fort on a spot which he deemed inaccessible, and secure from all our attacks.

The new governor, after a short stay at Auckland, proceeded to the north in order to quench the expiring embers of the insurrection, but previous to his departure he made arrangements for taking up the debentures in circulation with Imperial funds, as he had received from the Lords of the Treasury authority to obtain from the commissariat any amount of treasure he might require in conducting the government. Possessed of such authority, and provided with ample funds, he saw the difficulties hitherto experienced in administering the affairs of the colony disappear like winter snows at the approach of summer.

Our forces being left without an enemy at Ohaiawai, returned to the Bay of Islands, where Colonel Despard was informed that the chief Johnny Heki had commenced building a pah at Ruapecka-pecka, a remote and almost inaccessible position, about eleven miles from that place, but it was impossible for our troops to advance and invest this post, without in the first instance cutting a pathway through the forest, which was as dense and intricate as an Indian jungle. In the meantime he had received various reinforcements. Lieut.-Col. Wynyard, with the remainder of the 58th Regiment, arrived, two additional ships of war were sent, and the new governor, Sir George Grey, likewise made his appearance at head-quarters. There was now a field force at the governor's disposal, amounting, with the sailors and marines, to fifteen hundred men. Our troops advanced and invested the enemy's pah, and Major Wilmot commenced firing upon it, without however

[Image of page 132]

making a breach in the defences. The colonel in command contemplated another assault, but early on Sunday morning, January 11th, 1846, while the Maories were engaged at prayers, the palisades at one entrance were left undefended; our troops therefore marched in, and drove the enemy out of their pah, exemplifying, that in war as well as in many other affairs, the unforeseen event is sure to occur and lead to important results. On this occasion our loss was extremely slight. The enemy lost a few men, but did not suffer severely.

The two chiefs, Heki and Kaweti, with their followers, soon after sent to the governor, offering terms of peace and submission. Sir George Grey behaved in a generous manner to the simple and gallant Maories. In the first instance he confiscated their territory, but shortly afterwards restored it to them; this was sound and judicious policy, and was not thrown away, for this tribe, the Gnapui, one of the most numerous and warlike in the country, have continued ever since to be distinguished for their loyalty and allegiance to the Government.

The governor remained a short time at Auckland before proceeding to Wellington, to quell the spirit of insurrection which had manifested itself in the south ever since our unfortunate defeat at the Wairau. Before his departure, however, he abolished the system of direct purchase of lands from the natives by the colonists, which had been introduced so successfully in the north by his predecessor. This false step in his policy was no doubt taken with the view of conciliating, by a peace-offering to their cupidity, the New Zealand Company, whose influence, although on the wane, was still great in England. As they had always denied

[Image of page 133]

the claims of the natives to the rights of British subjects, I am satisfied that he supported them in this measure in opposition to his judgment; but Sir George Grey was then an ambitious young man, resolved 'to climb the steep where Fame's proud temple shines afar,' and in order to ingratiate himself with this powerful company, he forsook the right and adopted the expedient in his policy.

The company at that time owned a considerable extent of territory, and the exclusion of the natives from the field of competition in the sale of lands, was an important object gained. Governor FitzRoy's aim was to abolish the disgraceful land-jobbing monopoly carried on both by the company and Government, in order to establish a just and sound system of policy, and at the same time to act fairly towards the natives. Sir George Grey's object was to re-establish both, and conciliate the natives by a system of gifts and presents out of funds drawn from the Imperial Treasury in the first instance, and subsequently from colonial revenues. This was merely postponing the settlement of the question, instead of grappling with it in a statesmanlike manner.

The Government then was as completely despotic as can be imagined, and the governor was in the habit of quoting, much to the amusement of some of us, Carlyle's theory of a pure despotism, as the best of all systems of colonial government. He therefore held in his hands, for a time, for good or for evil, the destiny of the colony; but he was not a believer in the maxim that nothing is politically right that is morally wrong, and trusted to cleverness and expediency, instead of erecting his system of policy on the principle and basis of fair play and justice to both

[Image of page 134]

races. His policy laid the foundation for the subsequent wars in New Zealand, although during his first tenure of office he made everything pleasant to the Government, the company, and the natives. It was, however, a policy which could not last, as it was simply founded on expediency and personal influence, and was of the 'Apres moi le deluge' character.

The governor invited the great chief Te Whero Whero to accompany him to the south. This chief had the reputation of being the greatest warrior in New Zealand, and some years previously had conquered the tribes which had now risen in rebellion against the Government. The war in the south was, however, of short duration, as our troops had now acquired experience in the field, as well as in the mountain and forest warfare peculiar to New Zealand. Frequent skirmishes took place, and occasionally we suffered rather severely, but the skill and gallantry of our troops were irresistible, and the capture by stratagem of Te Rauparaha, a notorious intriguing chief, on July 24, 1846, terminated hostilities, and completed the subjugation of the insurgent natives in the south, who, like sensible fellows, quietly submitted to our supremacy.

Conspicuous for gallantry and indefatigable activity, was Captain Stanley, with the officers and crew of Her Majesty's ship 'Calliope,' whose services contributed greatly to the success of our arms. All honour to those gallant sailors who did their duty nobly and well, although no 'Times Commissioner' existed in those days to narrate their exploits and record their intrepidity. The services of Captain Henderson, E. A., 2 will likewise be long remembered

[Image of page 135]

in New Zealand, as he was on all occasions distinguished for skill and gallantry, while his capacity for command was no less conspicuous.

The suppression of the insurrection being accomplished, the governor then went to work vigorously to arrange the various and complicated land claims of the New Zealand Company. This was no easy matter, as the natives in many instances stoutly maintained that they were still the rightful owners of much of the territory claimed by the company. The governor, however, lent his aid and influence to the company in the settlement of these disputes, and even advanced funds on behalf of the Government to buy out the natives in order to give the company undisputed possession of some valuable lands. At the same time he conducted himself in an extremely hostile manner towards all who had obtained land under Governor FitzRoy's direct purchase proclamations in the north, and although Lord Grey, the Secretary of State for the Colonies, had instructed him in the most direct terms that all purchases sanctioned by his predecessor were to be respected, he nevertheless treated many of them not only arbitrarily, but absolutely with injustice. In the south he permitted the natives to lease their lands direct to the colonists, while in the north he not only prohibited such a system, but inflicted the full penalty of the law on all colonists who transgressed. In this manner, practically, Governor FitzRoy's system was sanctioned in the south, while the same system was prohibited in the north. In these measures, therefore, respecting the tenure of land, his policy was practically of that character which is indicated in Lord Lauderdale's maxim,

[Image of page 136]

'Show me the man and I'll show you the law.' The old bitter rivalry between the company's settlements in the south, and the Government settlements in the north, still existed, but Sir George Grey, instead of acting justly and fairly towards both, cast his weight and influence, like the sword of Brennus, into one of the scales of the contending parties, and favoured the company and the south.

Many important and useful measures were enacted by the first Legislative Council held under the presidency of Sir George Grey in September 1846. No measures of policy could, however, be introduced or discussed except by the Government, which consequently restricted all legislation merely to the will and pleasure of the governor. This system afforded an opportunity to a clever man to display his abilities for administration, as well as his talents for debate, as he was his own Prime Minister, and Colonial Secretary, as well as governor. One peculiar feature of Sir George Grey's character was developed on this occasion, and distinguished him during his whole career. When any sound suggestions or practical observations were made by independent members, either in support of or in opposition to the Government, he never openly at the time accepted them, but on some future occasion he would adopt and embody them as his own, in measures introduced by himself. He displayed wonderful talent in seizing and appropriating the valuable information, original ideas, and practical views of others. He was not possessed of great intellectual powers, nor was he rich in original conceptions and ideas, nor distinguished for great force of character, but in the application to practical purposes of the knowledge and experience

[Image of page 137]

of others, as well as in the faculty of observing and waiting the development of events, then attributing their natural operations to his personal interference, and claiming the whole as the meritorious result of his foresight and policy, he was unrivalled. In this respect he even surpassed the famous Charles Montagu, Whig statesman in William and Mary's time, who was styled the daw in borrowed plumes. I do not blame him for availing himself of the enlightened views and sound practical suggestions of others, as his conduct in this respect is highly exemplary, and worthy of imitation by all men placed in power and authority. Without impairing his fame, or exposing himself to the risk of sacrificing a single rose from the wreath in his chaplet, it would have been more magnanimous, would have shown more elevation of sentiment, if he had acknowledged and appreciated the intelligence of those to whom he was in some measure indebted for the success of his policy.

At this period he was eminently successful in conciliating the natives, if he did not inspire them with confidence in his measures. He made frequent tours through the country, visiting their pahs and villages, as well as receiving them at Government House on all occasions with the greatest hospitality and kindness. In this way he soon acquired a complete knowledge of their language and character, appreciated their display of patriotism, expressed a genuine pleasure in listening to their animated rehearsals of their traditions and legends, and was amused at the troubadour style in which they recited their ballads and poetry; while he stimulated them by every means to educate their young chiefs, and many of them attended our schools

[Image of page 138]

and were fairly educated. At this time they could for the most part read and write their own language fluently, and of a party consisting of sixty-five Maories, who were employed in building the barrack wall at Auckland, sixty-four could write their own language, and sixty-five could read it.

They were now, except in a few instances, entirely denuded of arms and munitions of war, and the importation of such articles was prohibited, and ruinous penalties were inflicted by legislative enactment on all who violated this statutory law. From this circumstance they had in a great measure abandoned their warlike and predatory habits, but, as they were endowed with great energy of character, mental as well as physical, and aware of the great property they possessed in the country, were ambitious of maintaining that rank and distinction which they formerly held, they preferred a life of occupation to idleness and repose.

They were on all occasions anxious to imitate us in our pursuits and amusements, and were now animated with the laudable ambition to excel and compete with us, and share the prizes of colonial and civilised life. Indeed, by our example, and stimulated by a justifiable desire for wealth, they adopted and persevered in peaceful and industrious pursuits, became the possessors of numerous coasting vessels, which they navigated themselves, and cultivated their lands, growing and reaping their crops of grain, as well as planting, hoeing and digging their potatoes.

They employed our skilled mechanics to erect mills on their property, and were recompensed by the ability not only to supply themselves with food of

[Image of page 139]

their own production, but to realise considerable sums by the sale of their surplus stock in our markets; while their amour propre was gratified in owning sheep, cattle, and horses. In all parts of the country, north and south, they often rode in troops, well mounted, from their villages to our towns and settlements, and at our race meetings would enter their horses, and sometimes succeed in winning the race and stakes. These habits and pursuits having been adopted, the country might with advantage have remained a Crown colony under a governor observing ordinary discretion and exercising prudent forbearance, undisturbed for some length of time. Under any circumstances, it would have been only just that previous to the introduction of constitutional and responsible government, the political condition, rights and privileges of the natives as British subjects, should be clearly defined by the Imperial Parliament.

The Mexicans and Peruvians, as well as the inhabitants of the continent of America, including those islands discovered by Columbus, fell an easy prey to the cupidity and rapacity of the Spaniards under Cortes and Pizarro, and England appears to have adopted the policy of those leaders; as ever since the time of Elizabeth, Englishmen have been held to justify the appropriation of remote lands unoccupied by any Christian prince or people. The Romans were in such affairs really more enlightened than we have been, as the inhabitants of every country they conquered were incorporated with the empire and became Roman citizens, 'Ubi vincit Romanus habitat.'

In this manner the empire was raised and built up to that pitch of greatness which to this day has

[Image of page 140]

been the wonder and admiration of the world. Cavour and Bismarck, in their respective countries, have in modern times only crowned the policy of ancient Rome, and profiting by such an example, have succeeded in uniting and consolidating these hitherto fragmentary and rope-of-sand kingdoms, in this way reconstructing them into that power and grandeur which now distinguish the mighty empires of Italy and Germany of the present day. In India, however, as well as in every country where colonies have been founded by England, the aboriginal inhabitants had either been conquered or treated as a conquered race. New Zealand is the only exception to this rule. The Maori chiefs in good faith ceded the sovereignty of their country to the Queen, and in consideration she guaranteed to them all the rights and privileges of British subjects.

At this time Lord Grey was Colonial Minister, and with his enlightened views on all colonial questions, confirmed by Lord Durham's famous report on the affairs of Canada then ringing in his ears, he had introduced a bill into the Imperial Parliament to provide New Zealand with a constitutional and representative government. Some of the provisions of this charter were, however, not only framed expressly to exclude the natives from all political rights, but it contained a clause providing that all their unoccupied lands should be forfeited to the Crown. 3 The measure was consequently received in the colony by many influential people of both races with disappoint-

[Image of page 141]

ment, dissatisfaction, and alarm. Amongst those who were dissatisfied were Bishop Selwyn and the Church of England missionaries, on behalf of the natives.

The following protest against the introduction of this charter was therefore sent to the governor by Bishop Selwyn, with the usual request that it should be forwarded to Lord Grey, Secretary of State for the Colonies: --

St. John's College, Bishop's Auckland, July 1st, 1847.

'May it please Your Excellency, --I, George Augustus, by Divine permission Bishop of New Zealand, on my own behalf, and on behalf of the clergymen of this diocese, employed by Captain Hobson to interpret and explain the Treaty of Waitangi to the native chiefs of New Zealand, do hereby record my deliberate and formal protest against the principles expressed in a letter of instructions addressed by the Right Hon. the Earl Grey to your Excellency, bearing date Downing Street, December 23, 1846, to the effect that "The savage inhabitants of New Zealand have no right of property in land which they do not occupy, and which has remained unsubdued to the purposes of man."

'Against this doctrine I feel myself called upon to protest as the head of the missionary body, by whose influence and representations the native chiefs were induced to sign the Treaty of Waitangi, not one of whom would have consented to act as an agent of the British Government if the assurances given to them by Captain Hobson had not been directly contrary to the principles now avowed by the Right Hon. the Earl Grey. It is my duty also to inform your Excellency, that I am resolved, God being my

[Image of page 142]

helper, "to use all legal and constitutional measures befitting my station, to inform the natives of New Zealand of their rights and privileges as British subjects, and to assist them in asserting and maintaining them, whether by petition to the Imperial Parliament, or other loyal or peaceful methods, but that in so doing I shall not forget the respect which I owe to your Excellency, nor do anything which can be considered likely to add to the difficulties of the colony.

'I have further to request that this communication may be forwarded to the Right Hon. the Earl Grey, Secretary of State for the Colonies, with whom I am privileged to communicate through your Excellency. I have, &c

'G. A. NEW ZEALAND.
'His Excellency, Captain Grey, &c, &c, &c.'

This protest is no doubt sufficiently vehement in its character, the language forcible and expressive, and perhaps more characteristic of the high prerogative style of the ancient popes Hildebrand and Nicholas Breakspear, than of that of an English prelate of the middle of the nineteenth century. When, among other papers, it was laid before Parliament, some members of the House of Commons viewed several passages in it, more particularly the old prelatical expression of 'God being my helper,' as very strong, if not insolent, and were disposed to exclaim, like the old Duke of Gloster in Shakspeare, 'Under my feet I stamp thy cardinal's hat, in spite of pope or dignities of Church.' Still it is justifiable when used in defence of an inferior and interesting

[Image of page 143]

race, threatened by England, mighty England, with injustice and oppression.

At the same time Sir George Grey not only considered the introduction of such a measure as altogether premature, but condemned in distinct and unequivocal terms that portion of it which ignored the claims of the natives to the rights of British subjects, and despoiled them of their lands. He therefore succeeded in prevailing on Lord Grey to suspend for a time the introduction of this charter, if not in convincing him of the prudence of abandoning it altogether.

All honour is therefore due to Earl Grey for suspending its introduction, on being made aware of the injustice of some of its provisions to the natives, as no one could suppose that he would intentionally disfranchise and oppress them after they had ceded the sovereignty of their country to the Queen upon the express stipulation that they were to be entitled to all the rights of British subjects.

The following extracts from Sir George Grey's despatches to Earl Grey in reference to this measure convey such a lucid and faithful sketch of the condition and character of the natives at that period as to induce me to quote them.

Extracts of a despatch from Governor Grey to Earl Grey, dated

'Government House, Auckland, May 3, 1847.

'Before stating the reasons on which these views are founded, I think it proper to mention that Her Majesty's native subjects in this country will certainly be exceedingly indignant at finding that they are placed in a position of inferiority to the European

[Image of page 144]

population. They will undoubtedly argue, as they now frequently do, that they not only cheerfully ceded the sovereignty of the country to the Queen, but that when attempts have been made, by some discontented tribes, to throw off the sovereignty of Great Britain, and that at a period when, from the smallness of the British force in the country, they had apparently some hopes of success, the principal chiefs came forward, and freely gave the services of themselves and their people, and shed their blood in assisting to maintain for Her Majesty that sovereignty which they had yielded to her.

'Then it must be borne in mind, that the great majority of the native population can all read and write their own language fluently, that they are a people quite equal in natural sense and ability to the mass of the European population, that they are jealous and suspicious, that they now own many vessels, horses, and cattle, that they have in some instances considerable sums of money at their disposal, and are altogether possessed of a great amount of property in the country, of the value of which they are fully aware; that there is no nation in the world more sensitive upon the subject of money matters, or the disposal of their property, and no people that I am acquainted with less likely to sit down quietly under what they may regard as injustice.

'At present the natives are quite satisfied with the form of government now existing, and as the chiefs have always ready access to the governor, and their representations are carefully heard and considered, they have practically a voice in the government, and of this they are well aware; but under the proposed

[Image of page 145]

constitution they would lose their power, and the governor would lose his influence over them; in fact, the position of the two races would become wholly altered, and the governor would, I fear, lose that power which. I do not see lie could well dispense with, in a country circumstanced as this.'

During this period of tranquillity and prosperity among all classes, including the natives, one of those incidental outrages characteristic of their condition as a fierce, and semi-barbarous race, occurred, and, but for the sound judgment and intrepidity of Captain Laye, 58th Regiment, 4 on the occasion, it would have involved the country in a formidable insurrection.

It is said that if you scratch a Russian you will find a Tartar, and without doubt if you scratch a New Zealander, you will find a savage. The disturbance originated in the circumstance of a midshipman of H. M. S. 'Calliope' having accidentally shot a native with a pistol. The wound being of a serious description, apprehensions were entertained of its proving fatal. The natives became excited, and it was found impossible to convince them that a deliberate attempt had not been made to murder their relation. In accordance with their former customs, and their thirst for retaliation when exasperated, they demanded that blood should be taken for blood. Whilst in this state of excitement, six of them attacked the house of Mr. Gilfillan, a settler living about six miles from the township of Wanganui. Mr. Gilfillan escaped slightly wounded, but his wife, daughter, and two sons were barbarously murdered by the infuriated natives. Some of our native allies went in pursuit of the murderers, and apprehended

[Image of page 146]

five of them, who were delivered to the officer in command of the detachment at Wanganui. This officer likewise held the appointment of civil resident magistrate, but as Captain Laye had only a small force under his command, 170 men all told, and was satisfied that the prisoners would be rescued by their friends if he attempted to forward them to Wellington, ninety miles distant, and that it would be impolitic to divide his small force, and forward them under an escort altogether insufficient, he resolved on his own responsibility to try them by military law, and make their immediate punishment a striking example of the inexorable justice and supremacy of our laws. An inquest was therefore held on the mutilated bodies of the Gilfillans, and the coroner and jury returned a verdict of wilful murder against the prisoners. A court-martial was assembled immediately, consisting of seven officers: the prisoners, upon the clearest evidence, were found guilty. Four were sentenced to be hanged; but the fifth, a boy, was, in consideration of his youthful years, sentenced to be transported for life. The finding and sentence of the Court were confirmed by Captain Laye, and the murderers were accordingly hanged the following morning. In the meantime their friends and a number of dissatisfied natives, relying on the assurance of assistance from Rhangahaita, a notorious rebel chief, had assembled in large force in order to rescue the prisoners, and took possession of the hills surrounding the settlement. They attacked the stockade, and for five hours kept up an incessant fire on the place, but eventually were, in the most gallant manner, repulsed and driven off with considerable loss by the detachment of the

[Image of page 147]

58th Regiment, aided by a few armed settlers. In this manner the sound judgment and intrepid behaviour of Captain Laye dispirited the natives, and impaired the force of the insurrection. In a few weeks, as the natives were really sensible fellows, peace was restored.

Captain Laye's behaviour in this crisis evinced the possession of high qualities, valuable in a soldier, namely, a capacity for command as well as intrepidity in action. It showed him to be one of those characters which rise with the occasion, acquiring force in emergency, and never more collected than when stimulated and confronted with difficulties and dangers. Sir George Grey, in a despatch to Earl Grey respecting this disturbance, appears to have appreciated Captain Laye's conduct. 'I should add, however,' he writes, 'that the speedy and satisfactory termination of these disturbances must be in a great measure attributed to the firm and vigorous manner in which Captain Laye acted;' and in another despatch he remarks, 'There is every reason to suppose that, had Captain Laye not acted in the firm and decided manner he did, a much more formidable and lengthened rebellion might have ensued in the southern, portion of the island.'

And Lord Grey, in reply, writes to Governor Grey in reference to this affair:

'I have it especially in command to assure you of the sense which Her Majesty entertains of the firmness with which Captain Laye acted upon the occasion of the attack of the natives on the town of Wanganui, and of the gallant conduct of himself and detachment under his orders.'

The colony in all the settlements now made rapid

[Image of page 148]

advance in wealth and population, and the south was distinguished for the enterprise and success of the colonists, and now began to take the lead of the northern settlements in the growth of wool and production of grain, which it has maintained ever since. The fine climate and abundant pastures of the Hawke's Bay district had attracted numerous settlers, while the Nelson settlement in the South Island, having recovered from the sad disaster at the Wairau, was making rapid progress, not only in pastoral pursuits but in agriculture. Enterprising colonists even found their way further south, to the remote settlement of Otago, hitherto viewed as the Ultima Thule of the colony, where only a few whalers and sealers had formerly taken up their residence. The quality of the Port Cooper cheese was already famous, not only in New Zealand but in Australia. If the power of the New Zealand Company had been broken in the struggle with the Government, the mantle of their enterprise had fallen on the colonists, who from that day to this have never faltered in their colonising spirit, amidst unparalleled disasters and difficulties.

In the north, at Auckland, which was still the seat of government, a greater degree of security was afforded by the introduction from England of a considerable number of military pensioners, with their families, who were located in villages round, on sites selected as salient points of defence, so as to afford complete protection to the settlement. Law and order were established on a firm basis, and life and property rendered as secure as in any part of England, and in a short time the country within a radius of ten miles was enclosed, partitioned and cultivated, abounding

[Image of page 149]

in parks, corn-fields and gardens, as well as studded with villas and hamlets.

The head-quarters of the 58th Regiment had likewise returned to New Zealand, and there were now two regiments stationed in the country, one in the north and the other in the south. In order to complete the military arrangements, New Zealand was erected into a separate command, and Major-General George Dean Pitt, K. H., was sent from England with a head-quarters staff, to take command of all the forces in the colony.

At this time, St. John's College, situated about six miles from Auckland, and where Bishop Selwyn resided, was a place of interest and attraction. With private funds the Bishop had purchased many hundred acres of land, and in a rather bleak but conspicuous situation had built the college, where a number of boys of both races, the sons of colonists and of Maori chiefs, were domiciled and educated. The Bishop's residence, unpretending in appearance, with few comforts--among them his library--was built of stone, but there were erected, in an irregular manner, numerous detached wooden buildings, for the accommodation of the masters and scholars, as well as for the convenience of all attached to the establishment. These were built in the Gothic style, with traceried windows, and included a small chapel, ecclesiastical in structure and sacerdotal in character, but in good taste, inclining in the direction of, although not advancing too far in, the High Church style, where all assembled every morning at seven o'clock to prayers, including the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn.

The aspect of this cluster of buildings, from the

[Image of page 150]

Gothic style of architecture, the traceried windows, gables and pinnacles, cloisters and stiles, was Middle Age and abbey-like, and from its monastic repose highly ecclesiastical and characteristic. Around this collection of dwellings was the college demesne or farm, where cattle, sheep, and poultry were seen grazing undisturbed in profuse and luxuriant pastures. The aspect of an English rural landscape was about the place, indicating primitive comfort and abundance. Situated on an eminence, it looked down on a scene as fair as can well be imagined. On one side the Gulf of Shouraki, studded with islands, was displayed in all its captivating loveliness; and although the college was situated in a secluded spot, not a ship or vessel of any kind could arrive or depart from the Auckland harbour without being observed. On the other side the view extended over the whole Isthmus, to the shores of the west coast, including the numerous villages and hamlets, volcanic hills, woods, lakes, and streams in the Auckland district, forming a diversified and magnificent landscape.

In those primitive times, the Bishop was hospitable to all in a simple and cordial style. He was then young, full of life, vigorous and hopeful, and if his views and performances were of a too feudal and traditional Middle Age type to harmonise with the toils and struggles of our every-day life, he was animated with the fervour of religion, as well as with a sentiment of chivalry, which united with his indefatigable and self-imposed labours to make him highly esteemed by both races. And he may perhaps look back to those early days of action, exertion, and humble though dignified toil, as not the least happy period of his life, although he is now a spiritual peer of parlia-

[Image of page 151]

ment, clothed in purple and fine linen, and lodged in a palace.

The Roman Catholic prelate, Bishop Pompallier, a Frenchman, who had been in early life an officer in a dragoon regiment, was courteous and well-bred, after the fashion of his countrymen. Cosmopolitan in manners, sacerdotal in appearance, faithful to his order, and a devoted servant to the Church and his Holiness the Pope, he was the first of all our bishops who resided in the colony, having been in New Zealand before it became British territory.

In the colony the Catholics are numerous as well as influential, and in that distant land, far away from the bigotry, prejudice, and religious strife prevailing in Europe, men in many instances reviling and hating their neighbour for the love of God, I have often, while maintaining in firmness and fidelity my own persuasion, been impressed with that sympathy and affection for the Catholic Church which every enlightened and unprejudiced mind must experience when reflecting on the many venerable and hallowed associations which distinguish the Church of our forefathers, more especially considering that in the dark ages, it was highly beneficial to mankind, and even at this day, it is hard to say whether England owes more to the Catholic religion or to the Reformation.

The Wesleyans had likewise built a college, a little more ambitious in style and perhaps a shade more practical in its management than the others. In the early times of New Zealand, the Wesleyan missionaries had contributed much to that civilisation which led the way to its settlement as a British dependency. Many of them were conspicuous for practical good

[Image of page 152]

sense, and some displayed fair abilities, while the Rev. Mr. Buller is distinguished for talents and accomplishments that would compare not unfavourably with some of our English bishops.

The Scotch Presbyterians, at the same time, had performed their part in the cause of religion and education. They erected a capacious kirk in the Greek order of architecture, as they consider a church built in the Gothic style to be an emblem of popery. Scotchmen in all colonies are famous for 'Digging kirks,' but they always appear to do so as much from the sense of nationality as from zeal for religion.

The natives had likewise done their part, and with their own funds had built churches, as well as aided in erecting and establishing schools for the education of their children.

In this manner the two races were brought to live together in harmony and prosperity--the Englishman and New Zealander, the civilised man of the nineteenth century and the Maori lately emerged from a state of extreme barbarism, who were never viewed or treated, nor would submit to be treated, as a conquered race, and who, during the war in 1845-6, had joined with us in suppressing a formidable insurrection, freely giving their services and sacrificing their lives in maintaining the Queen's authority, and in support of that sovereignty which they had frankly bestowed on condition of receiving the rights of British subjects.

Some of the colonists may have been guilty of those faults from which civilised men who settle among the uncivilised are rarely entirely exempt, and that power which is based on superior intelligence may occasionally have been employed unworthily,

[Image of page 153]

sometimes displayed with insolence or ignorance, and often with injustice, exhibiting the might of civilisation without its generosity. But in general, at least among the intelligent classes, the natives were treated fairly, not only with civility but with kindness; while on the other hand, the natives received the colonists with cordiality and hospitality. Although less crime existed among them than amongst ourselves, they were jealous of our superiority, and when provoked and excited were disposed to redress their wrongs in their old style of retaliation--revenge for injuries, blow for blow, and blood for blood. But while fire-arms and the munitions of war were kept out of their hands, there were no grounds to apprehend, under a Government acting with ordinary discretion and exercising common forbearance, that any disturbance could arise involving the country in a war of extermination between the Maories and the colonists; and at this period such was the confidence and security prevailing that the amalgamation of the two races appeared in a fair way to be peacefully and successfully realised.

I cannot describe in a more forcible manner the condition of friendship and security then existing than by quoting passages from a brief narrative written at the time of a tour which I made about that period into the interior. These extracts will at the same time show the primitive style in which such journeys were performed in those early days, and how a knowledge of the condition and character of the natives was obtained, as well as a familiarity with the geographical features of the country, and information respecting its natural history.

'Having engaged five intelligent Maories to ac-

[Image of page 154]

company us as guides and carry our luggage, consisting of a small tent, carpet bag, a few cooking utensils, and a limited supply of provisions for our journey, the natives slung their pekaus on their shoulders, and set out for the Waikato. On the following day I left Auckland, and after a pleasant ride of twenty miles reached the inn at Papakura, the first stage in our journey, about sunset.

'The next morning we mounted our horses and took the path for Tuakau, a native settlement on the banks of the Waikato river. On leaving Papakura, we at once passed beyond the limits of European settlement and civilisation. From that place to Tuimata, the country is open and easily travelled on horseback. On the west, in the direction of Waihuku, the country at one time must have been heavily timbered, as the remains of forest trees are still to be seen. Immediately on the east appear the chain of hills which intersect this part of the country, with their sloping sides sweeping down to the plain, beautifully wooded and in appearance resembling the Derbyshire country.

'At some distance we observed the smoke of a native village curling above the trees, but the habitation of civilised man was nowhere to be seen. The native pah of Tuimata is a wretched-looking place with few inhabitants, and the situation in no way remarkable, except its convenience for wood and water, which is a sine qua non in a Maori Kiangi. We halted here for a couple of hours, in order to give our natives some rest after their morning march. The old chief was hospitable and presented us with potatoes and water melons, and we dined by the side of a brook under the shade of a large tree, which

[Image of page 155]

afforded convenient shelter from the scorching rays of a noonday sun.

'On resuming our journey we immediately entered a wood, through which the pathway leads, with the exception of one or two openings, for upwards of ten miles. This pathway is both narrow and crooked, and although easily travelled on foot, is not well adapted for horseback, for in addition to the trouble of keeping your horse as well as rider clear of trees and underwood, numerous ravines and streams have to be crossed, which renders this manner of travelling tedious and unpleasant. With some difficulty, and occasionally finding our horses floundering in quagmires, we made our way by swamp, stream, and woodland, and reached the open country before sunset, when we pulled up for a short time, in order to allow the natives, who had fallen behind, to overtake us. They soon after made their appearance, but sat down and refused to proceed further, as they alleged they were quite fatigued with their long march and heavy pekaus (knapsacks), and strongly urged the necessity of encamping for the night where we stood. The poor fellows had good grounds for complaining, and after an hour's ride through a fine and open country, intersected with numerous streams, we arrived at the native settlement of Tuakau, a little after sunset. Our natives were not far behind, and as soon as they arrived they unslung their pekaus, and made preparation for encampment. While one party was pitching our tent and making our beds of fern, another was kindling a fire, on which was placed the tea kettle. In half an hour after our arrival we were comfortably seated on a log of wood before a blazing wood fire, enjoying a good smoke and a pannikin of

[Image of page 156]

warm tea. The Maories of the village came to look at the strangers, and we had a numerous party of men, women and children assembled round our fire, who continued talking and smoking long after we went to bed.

'We got up at daybreak the following morning. While the Maories were preparing breakfast, I strolled about the settlement and the adjoining demesne. The Maori Kiangi, or village, of Tuakau, is one of the poorest description, and, with the exception of its small enclosures of cultivated ground, is not superior to the encampment of a tribe of wandering gipsies so frequently to be seen in some of the remote places in England and Scotland. Its population is not numerous, and those we saw seemed of an inferior class. The country, however, is very fine, consisting of open fern glades with patches of wood.

'There was a dense fog hanging over the bed of the Waikato, which concealed it for some time from view, but as the morning advanced the fog cleared off, and I got a sight of the river through an opening of the wood on its banks, about a quarter of a mile distant. At this spot, and on the Tuakau side of the river, the country still retains the level and undulating English landscape character which is the distinguishing feature in its appearance from Auckland to the Waikato, with the exception that the greatest part of it is covered with woods and fern, and still in a state of nature. But a short distance below Tuakau, the aspect of the country is very much changed. The basin of the Waikato expands into a valley, the undulations swell into hills, clothed with the magnificent foliage of a New Zealand forest, extending to the banks of the river, and ascending the precipices, which, with the windings of the stream,

[Image of page 157]

from two to three hundred yards broad, form one of the finest views of river scenery that it is possible to imagine. After breakfast we struck our lent, and proceeded to Rakuwaitiri, which is three miles above Tuakau. At this place we again reached the chain of hills we saw in the early part of our journey, which, after ranging regularly across the country, are terminated by bold cliffs on the northern shores of the Waikato. We crossed the river at this place, which is about one hundred yards in breadth, expecting to find a canoe prepared for our journey, but were much disappointed when informed that from some mistake it had not been provided, and there was none to be obtained. After some vexation and delay, we, however, procured one from some natives, who, fortunately for us, arrived just while we were deploring our fate. Everything was soon placed in order, and the passengers, consisting of five Maories and two Europeans, having taken their seats, the canoe was launched, and the Maories plying their paddles, we swept along on the smooth waters of the broad Waikato. In fine weather, it is pleasant travelling in a canoe, and the natives show great dexterity in navigating them. The canoes are scooped out of solid trees, and some of them are sixty, seventy, and eighty feet in length, but those of this large size are 'Wakatua,' or war canoes, and seldom used except on state occasions. These are capable of carrying from forty to fifty natives, and are invariably smeared over with a kind of red ochre, and handsomely ornamented with a profusion of sea-fowl feathers, hanging gracefully from a small pole three or four feet high, fixed in the prow, which is decorated with grotesque figures of men and animals.

[Image of page 158]

The canoes are all made thick and strong at the bottom, and tapering to a point at the prow and stern, in order to give as little resistance to the water as possible, and when the breeze is favourable, sails as well as paddles are used in navigating them.

'Although, the midcurrent of the Waikato below the confluence of the Waipa is easily withstood or overcome, and does not run more rapidly than from one to three miles an hour, and only at the latter rate in the bends and windings of the river, the natives, in order to avoid its influence, ascend along its banks, often so close as to admit of their leaping on shore and into their canoes without stopping. In this way we ascended the river, rapidly or slowly, as the Maories were in humour, but an average speed of from three to four miles an hour could easily and without effort be maintained for any length of time. It may be observed, however, that the river at this season was rather low, but its ordinary bed was completely covered, and there appeared no indications of its being greatly below its average level. In our progress, at the bends and turnings of the river we occasionally met with shallows and sandbanks, which retarded us a little, as in such places the channel shifts from side to side, and the Maories had sometimes, although not often, to leap into the water and explore in order to find it out; but if the river were surveyed and properly marked out, a channel from two to three feet deep would be found for at least 130 miles, as large canoes, heavily loaded, and drawing three feet of water, are frequently navigated upwards of that distance in all seasons. I think, therefore, that a steamer drawing from two to two and a half feet, might easily

[Image of page 159]

navigate the Waikato in all periods of the year. The river is comparatively free from snags and sunken trees, and the few impediments to navigation existing of this description are unimportant, and could be easily removed; but in no instance did we encounter, or even observe, floating timber or any obstacles in the character of driftwood. Above the confluence of the Waipa it is usually called the Horatu, from the name of that district, and here the current is strong and rapid, but much deeper and wholly clear of shallows and sandbanks.

'The breadth of the river, averaging from, one hundred to one hundred and fifty, and extending in some of the reaches to three hundred yards, surprises a stranger, and this feature in its character is maintained throughout a great part of its course, being a hundred yards broad and very deep immediately above its confluence with the Waipa, which is from eighty to ninety miles distant from the sea by the course of the river. The Waikato, with its numerous tributary streams, must drain a considerable extent of country, which, however, can hardly account for its size; but the great Taupo lake, situated at a considerable elevation near the centre of the island, and in extent almost an inland sea, being twenty-five miles long and from ten to fifteen broad, is its alleged chief source. After leaving the lake, and flowing nearly two hundred miles through the finest portion of the island, intersecting in its course the extensive and fertile plains of the Waipa, and rendering available the inexhaustible coal-fields which for miles line its margin, the Waikato falls into the sea on the west coast about thirty miles south of the Manakau. The natives, however, with their love for the marvellous, deny that

[Image of page 160]

Lake Taupo is the source of the Waikato, which is to be found, they allege, about twenty miles to the south of it, near Tongariro, a mountain seven thousand feet high, whose lofty summit is almost perpetually covered with snow. They describe the stream which flows from near the base of this mountain into Taupo as the Waikato, and say that its course, by a difference in temperature and colour, can easily be traced through the waters of the lake to the opposite side, and that the Waikato flows through Taupo in the same manner as the Rhone through the lake of Geneva. But this story requires confirmation. It is, however, not improbable that the melting of the snow on a mountain like Tongariro, which, in addition to its great height, is an active volcano, always smoking, and sometimes sending forth flames, may constantly feed and occasionally swell the lake and raise it above its level, thereby causing it to flow with greater rapidity into the channel of the Waikato, which on leaving the lake is upwards of thirty yards broad. The Maori story is, however, not to be despised, as they observe with accuracy any unusual occurrence in natural history. 5

The Waikato is the largest river in New Zealand, and by the removal of some obstructions in its course, and the formation of a few locks, would be rendered navigable from Lake Taupo to the sea. There is, however, a bar at the entrance of the river, as in all the harbours on the west coast of New Zealand, which renders it available only for vessels of light draught.

In Maori songs and traditions the district of the

[Image of page 161]

Waikato is celebrated for its fertility, numerous villages, and large population, as well as distinguished for the warlike character of its chiefs. The great Te Whero Whero is its acknowledged chief, but it is the home of many others of rank and authority.

'After paddling up the river for two or three hours we desired the natives to look out for a convenient spot for a dinner encampment, and they were not long in finding one. On such occasions the canoe is in the first place made fast to the river's bank, when the natives go on shore and commence operations by collecting fuel for a fire, which is soon kindled, and then begin to cook the viands. The bill of fare usually consists of potatoes, kumeras, and wild duck, all of which, except the kumeras, are obtained in great abundance, and may be called the indigenous fare of the Waikato. In addition, the Pakehas take care to furnish a supply of foreign luxuries, such as preserved meats and other good things, and tins of soup and salmon are at hand to vary the course, which is, however, seldom required. When the dinner waits, the Maories begin in native fashion, but the Pakehas provide themselves with knives and forks, and each is furnished with two tin pannikins, one as a plate and the other as a drinking cup. In fine weather, a dinner party on the banks of the river is a very pleasant affair, and relieves to a certain extent an excursion of this kind from its somewhat monotonous character. We were soon after in our canoe, and proceeded at our usual rate up the river until sunset, when we encamped for the night in an opening of the woods. Our night encampments were made in places affording shelter and fuel; and after pitching our tent and concluding the labours of the day, we sat talking

[Image of page 162]

to the natives for a short time round their camp fire. We always went early to bed, the Pakehas to their tent and the Maories lying round the fire, or under a tree, wrapped up in their blankets.

'Soon after sunrise the following morning we were paddling up the river, and in passing a canoe moored to its banks, we observed a number of Maories assembled round a fire, who, like ourselves, appeared to have been encamped for the night in their journey up the river. We breakfasted on a pleasant spot, where a number of Maories had taken up their temporary residence--a kind of marine abode, I suppose, and they gave us some fruit which in taste and flavour resembled the juniper berry. They likewise pointed out to us a tree with flowers of different colours, some purple and some green. We encamped this evening at a place called "Randalls," where a person of that name resided, and who was styled by our natives a "Pakeha Maori." The Pakeha Maori is a specimen of a class which at one time were numerous in New Zealand, and in the early days of the settlement were frequently to be found in the Waikato district, but now are almost extinct. They were probably originally traders, but had become so accustomed to the native mode of living that they had lost all relish for any regular occupation, and preferred the freedom and independence of savage life to industry and civilisation. This class usually lived under the protection of some chief in native fashion, having a wahine for a wife, and a troop of half-caste children, who were all brought up as Maories.

'At the confluence of the Waipa with the Waikato the river is broad and deep, and although the current

[Image of page 163]

is somewhat rapid there is not a ripple to be seen, and. the surface of the uniting streams appears as smooth as if oil had been thrown over the mingling waters. The junction takes place at the extremity of an extensive table-land, terminating in a point and cliff, about twenty feet above the level of the rivers. The cliff is apparently of a permanent description, as it bears no marks of being worn away by the action of the two streams. This point commands the rivers, and a couple of field-pieces placed here could sweep the streams below and sink everything that approached it. The natives kept our canoe close to the opposite shore, on the left bank of the river, and then, ascending a little way above the confluence of the two streams, put about, and shooting boldly downwards across the deep, broad, and rapid current, entered the still waters of the Waipa; then, resting on their paddles, and raising their hoarse and loud voices, they shouted again and again, "Good-bye, Waikato." 6

'The Waipa, for ten miles above its confluence with the Waikato, is twenty or thirty yards broad, having perpendicular banks covered with fern, open, without timber, and is deep and still as a canal. We entered the river at sunset and swept along its smooth waters at a rapid rate. We arrived at a native settlement shortly after dusk, and, making our canoe fast to a post, we climbed up its steep bank and were hos-

[Image of page 164]

pitably received by the natives, who gave us a fire and a large basket of roasted potatoes, which were very acceptable to our native allies. In the early part of our journey we took to brandy to refresh us after being fatigued, but soon abandoned it, as we found tea a far more refreshing beverage on all occasions than spirits of any kind. The next day we ascended the river, which, except being partially wooded on its banks, varies little in appearance, and is from fifteen to twenty yards broad and of a good depth twenty-five miles from the Waikato. Its course is, however, very crooked, with innumerable bends, but without shoals and sandbanks, although there are more snags or sunken trees than in the Waikato. At the same time, it is perfectly available for steam navigation. The native population is considerable, and numerous kiangas, or villages, appear on its margin, but there is no pah of any importance, except Whata Whata, which is regularly fortified after Maori fashion, and must have been a formidable place in the fighting days of past times. We landed at that place and recognised the chief as an old acquaintance, whom we had formerly seen in some of his visits to Auckland. He received us with Maori hospitality, taking much pleasure in showing us over his fort and domain, and pointing out his plans of contemplated improvement, particularly the erection of a flour mill, which appeared to him to be a very important affair.

'The following morning we were early in our canoe, and reached the residence of Mr. Cowal, which is about forty miles by the course of the river from the Waikato.

'The Waipa plains consist of an extensive plateau,

[Image of page 165]

or table-land, part of which is comprised in a delta, formed by the two navigable rivers, the Waikato and the Waipa. The plains are known by the general name of the Waipa, and consist of volcanic and alluvial lands, which in extent cannot be estimated at less than 1,000,000 acres, available either for pasture or cultivation, and not more than seventy miles from Auckland by compass. Mr. Cowal furnished us with horses, and in riding across the country we kept the usual bridle path over the plains, which was rather circuitous, and at one place in our journey, in order to avoid a large swamp, had to ascend some small hills at the base of Maungatautiri, from the highest of which we obtained a magnificent view of the country, and looked down on the plains below as on a map, dotted with native villages, interspersed with clumps of forests, and intersected with streams and rivers, which, in the brightness of the cloudless sunshine, glittered like fountains of liquid silver. Our view extended in one direction over the whole delta of the Waipa and Waikato, and towards the south-west, in the direction of the Mokau River, it was altogether unbroken, and bounded only by the horizon. We could not resist the attractions of this enchanting view, and passed away some time admiring the scene, but no language can adequately describe its incomparable beauty. Before we got to our journey's end it was long past sunset: there was a bright moon, however, which, along with our guide, showed us the pathway, and we arrived at the native settlement of Maungatautiri, wayworn and weary, although we had enjoyed our ride amazingly. The natives here were numerous--tall, powerful and handsome fellows, jaunty and independent in style, but

[Image of page 166]

friendly and well disposed. We remained a day at this place, and experienced some difficulty in engaging a canoe to take us down the river, as the natives alleged it would take them three days in returning, as the current is strong and rapid. After leaving Maungatautiri, we soon reached the Waikato, where we found our canoe prepared and waiting for us, and mustered rather a strong party, numbering, besides three of our own natives, five new allies. Having the current with us, we descended the river easily, and soon arrived at the rapids. The natives informed us that in descending this part of the river, as it was considered rather dangerous, the Pakehas always left the canoe and walked down the banks; but we saw no danger, and told the natives if they were safe in the canoe we could run no risk, and remained. When we approached the rapids, two natives took their places at the stern of the canoe with a long paddle, in order to steer with firmness, and as soon as we began to descend, the natives plied their paddles with great vigour and effect, and the steersmen keeping the canoe steady in the descent we shot down with great swiftness, covered with foam and spray, but were soon in safety in smooth water. In like manner we passed down two similar rapids. These rapids, although not of a formidable character, yet require dexterity in handling a canoe, in order to ensure safety in making the descent. After clearing the rapids, we glided swiftly down the stream, and arriving at a landing-place, which our new allies represented to be a convenient spot for a dinner encampment, we landed, and while the natives were employed in their cooking operations, we strolled

[Image of page 167]

about the country, which in every direction appeared level and fine, as well as of great extent.

'On resuming our journey, the natives made up for their delay on shore, and the eight stalwart fellows exerted themselves, and bending to their paddles swept down the stream in gallant style for a couple of hours, at the rate of not less than from twelve to fifteen miles an hour. In this part the Waikato is much deeper than below its confluence with the Waipa, in some places nearly as broad, and is navigable for thirty or forty miles above the junction of the two rivers. The natives continued to ply their paddles until we arrived at Kaitotohe, a little after sunset, where we found our two natives, who had faithfully returned with our canoe and the heavy baggage, which we had left under their charge near the source of the Waipa.' 7

The Governor, Captain Grey, who in the order of things which had sprung from the disturbed condition of New Zealand had become distinguished, was created a Knight of the Bath. Unaided by the advantages of high birth or family influence, he was at this early period of his life thus rewarded for his meritorious services, and deservedly stood high in public estimation. I was present as a spectator at the ceremony of his installation, which took place on the lawn in front of Government House, in presence of a large party of ladies, a great number of civilians,

[Image of page 168]

all the military, and many of the Maori chiefs, who viewed the ceremony with characteristic gravity and dignified demeanour. A great change has taken place in the appearance and condition of the country since that time. Auckland was then a straggling village, the country around it partially enclosed and half-cultivated, with here and there a native wharie, where numbers of half-clad Maories frequently assembled. New Zealand was in those days a remote dependency, with uncertain and unfrequent communication with the mother country, a land of noble savages, and the youngest, although not the least important, of England's colonies.

Auckland has now grown into a large commercial town, with a harbour crowded with shipping, the markets swarming with buyers and sellers, and the streets thronged with people engaged in business or pleasure. In the neighbourhood, numerous villas, surrounded with lawns, gardens and vineyards, accompanied by all the arts of refined life, meet the view in every direction. There is now direct steam communication with England twice a month.

There were some circumstances connected with this ceremony which rendered it more than usually attractive. Sir George Grey at that time was not only the youngest knight, but the most youthful man of the Order, and had won his spurs by his own merit and personal achievement. He was then ambitious and self-reliant, his career successful and brilliant, and he appeared justly proud of this mark of royal approbation, as well he might be, for it had fallen to the lot of few men at his years to be created Knight of the Bath. When the pomp and pageantry were over, and after he had received the congratula-

[Image of page 169]

tions of his friends, and the applause of the spectators, I observed his wife, then young and beautiful, select a quiet opportunity to take the hand of her new-made knight, and wish him joy of his honours, which appeared not the least touching part of the ceremony.

In State affairs, when matters go wrong and a country sinks into anarchy and confusion through misgovernment, Englishmen in every age have been zealous to appreciate merit and confer distinctions and honours on those engaged in la carriere ouverte aux talents, and who have been successful in reducing chaos to order, establishing peace, and restoring confidence and prosperity. And unless some gross outrage or violation of the law has been committed in performing such services, they do not enquire too minutely by what means the evils have been extinguished, or how such a condition of harmony has been achieved. It is enough for them to know that a state of confusion and suffering had existed, that it disappeared, and they are only too glad to learn that security and tranquillity once more prevail. The great mass of the people are usually satisfied with a state of prosperity, and in quelling an insurrection like that in New Zealand, they are not disposed to criticise too severely the measures, or find fault with the remedy, which have led to results so satisfactory. If such a standard of policy approach closely to the verge of that vulgar test of merit, success, and the boundary which separates expediency from principle may appear too narrow, it must be allowed that sometimes practically in political matters 'thin partitions do their bounds divide,' but it is often the view which guides statesmen

[Image of page 170]

in the administration of public affairs. If these opinions prevail in reference to such matters in England, they are applied in far greater force when the condition of a distant colony like New Zealand is brought under consideration, and English statesmen can then only judge of the policy or impolicy of measures by the result. Although Sir George Grey's career had sometimes exposed him to criticism, censure, and even to strong condemnation, still his administration of the affairs of the colony was direct and forcible, if not always judicious and magnanimous, and the result, compared with the past, was a great and successful achievement.

Among the early colonists there were many accomplished gentlemen distinguished for intelligence and enterprise, who, from having been exposed from time to time to all the perils and vicissitudes of New Zealand colonisation, had acquired great experience and knowledge in its State affairs, and the characters of some of the present colonial representative men were formed and developed in those stirring and eventful times. In noticing these men, Colonel William Wakefield and Captain Arthur Wakefield, who represented the New Zealand Company, although long since passed away, cannot be forgotten, as they were remarkable for their practical talents and good sense. At that time, Sir Charles Clifford, the first Speaker of the General Assembly, as well as Mr. Stafford, Mr. Fitzherbert, Dr. Featherston and Mr. Fox, had distinguished themselves in colonial politics, and Sir David Munro at that early period was remarkable for his refined and intellectual accomplishments, besides the gifted Sir Francis Dillon Bell, and a host of others, all famous in the annals of the colony.

[Image of page 171]

If there were not in the north such a number of brilliant and accomplished representative men, there were many distinguished for force of character, and conspicuous in developing the resources of the country. But in the early days of New Zealand, none excelled the late Dr. Martin, of Auckland, as a colonial representative man, as he was highly gifted, and possessed those literary attainments for which so many of the Celtic race of Scotland have been distinguished.

The second and concluding volume will be shortly published, containing sketches of the settlements of Otago and Canterbury; the introduction of constitutional government; the great native war--termination of hostilities; prosperous condition of the colony--its future welfare, and probable early development into a great nation.

LONDON: PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE AND PARLIAMENT STREET