CHAPTER IX. THE RED SEA--SUEZ--THE DESERT--ALEXANDRIA--MALTA.
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CHAPTER IX.
THE RED SEA--SUEZ--THE DESERT--ALEXANDRIA--MALTA.
ON the 2nd of August, between three and four in the morning, we passed through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb; few, of course, saw them, but the passage was described to me as being between two rocky peaks, within gunshot of either side, and perfectly barren. Early on that day we passed some islands on our left of irregularly-shaped hills, with large quantities of sand washed up in front and between them, looking almost as white as snow; and one other, that was formerly a very dangerous rock, further up the Red Sea, on our right; this has now a lighthouse on it, and the men stationed there to keep it have no place on which they can walk, excepting up and down stairs, the surface of the rock being below the water, and the sea all round them. Provisions sufficient for six months are said to be taken to them twice a-year. A pleasant life!
The Red Sea is 1308 miles in length from Bab-el-Mandeb to Suez; the distance from Aden to Suez is 1460 miles. I had fancied we should see the coast of either Africa or Arabia the whole way, but we saw neither. I am told that land may sometimes be seen on me side or the other, but we kept well out in the middle, and the atmosphere upon this occasion happened to be rather misty, which was so far fortunate that it kept off, in some measure, the heat of the sun. Our Arab pilot is quite a picture, being dressed in a loose
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blue gown (or gaberdine) with black vest over, and a crimson turban and sash.
This sea is very shallow, as may be seen by its green hue, and is dangerous. One of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's ships was lost, some years ago, on one of the rocky islands we passed to-day. I heard a gentleman ask one of the ship's officers whether these rocks were not very dangerous on dark nights. The answer was rather characteristic, with a shrug, "We trust in Providence, and keep our eyes open." The weather is perfectly calm, and we are able often to have the portholes opened, which is a great blessing.
We took another lady, husband, and baby on board at Aden. We have about twenty babies, and many older children still more troublesome and noisy. We experienced the somewhat unusual occurrence of slight rain on several nights, which helped to cool the air; and on one night, when I was sleeping on deck, there was much vivid lightning and several rolls of thunder. I am told it is much cooler coming this way at the present season than going the other, as the wind is against us, and we have, therefore, the full benefit of it blowing to meet us; the unhappy mortals returning will go just before it, and at about the same speed that it blows, and so will feel no stir in the air. Birds occasionally visit us even when no land can be seen; I observed a beautifully-shaped and rather large bird perch upon one of the ropes, a pretty slender creature, nearly all white, with a long thin beak, and a crest upon its head. I believe it was a kind of kingfisher; and upon another occasion numerous little birds came flying under the awning; the sailors called them sparrows, but they were much prettier than the common sparrow, and had a good deal of white about them. They were not like swallows.
On the last day before we reached Suez, we could see land on both sides of us, but nearest on the Egyptian side; nothing, however, could be discerned but sandy-looking rocks. Nearly every one on board suffered,
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more or less, from the terrible heat of the cabins--some being laid up with severe fevers. This last I also had a slight attack of, and was glad to avail myself of the doctor's services, for I was horrified at the thought that I might be laid up helpless and alone among strangers. Fortunately, by taking measures against the evil in good time, it was warded off before it became very serious, and the doctor's efforts were considerably aided by the calm weather, which enabled me to sleep in my berth with the porthole and door wide open, and a delightful windsail fixed in the former, which brought in a most blessed draught of air. I cannot say that I felt the heat to be greater in the Red Sea than before we entered it, nor indeed so great, for the weather being calm, we were able to have more air. I suffered, however, from the long continuance of the heat, and the many sleepless nights. My hands became swollen up, and covered with painful blisters, and had exactly the appearance of having been severely scalded. It was fortunate, however, that it was my hands, and not my head, that the heat affected, as was the case with some of the passengers, who became light-headed from fever.
I had heard much of the sunsets in the Red Sea, but all that I saw here were much alike, and without any varied colours. The sun uniformly went down looking like a rather dull golden ball, the sky all around, and the sea also, being of the same dull, mysterious-looking golden hue. The moon set in much the same manner, and of the same gold colour, but in a blue sky (no cloud anywhere generally day or night), and sending one long glittering golden streak all across the sea, which was usually all ripples, with no waves save where our ship disturbed them.
Between two and three o'clock in the morning of the 6th we anchored off Suez; weather bright and lovely; such a brilliant moon! A series of rockets were sent up from our deck, and a cannon fired, as signals of our arrival. The harbour of Suez is very wide, but shallow; it looked very pretty, with the ships and several steamers
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scattered about it, notwithstanding the high sandy-looking rocks beside it. The French Steam Packet Company, which runs a similar line to the Peninsular and Oriental, have arranged with the Pacha for all the land they can reclaim from the sea, and are carrying on great and extensive works, throwing out a long jetty, and apparently getting quite the start of the English company.
We remained in our ship until nearly noon, when a small steamer came alongside, and took us all ashore; the baggage had been going all the morning. In about half an hour more we were at the wharf, and a five-minutes' walk took us to the hotel. There were a sad number of helpless invalids to be landed; impromptu beds had to be constructed on which to carry some, both ladies and gentlemen. Several of the children, too, were extremely ill, but they were more easily disposed of. Two of the ladies ought, in fact, to have been left at Suez, as they were quite unfit to proceed further; but they earnestly wished to go on, and went. Soon after I got into the hotel, feeling myself almost inclined to faint, one of the ladies, from Calcutta, looking almost dead, was brought into the ladies' room in the arms of a gentleman; he placed her in a chair; there happened to be no one else but myself in the room; I went to her; she could not speak, but feebly put into my hands all the contents of her pocket, which it seemed she had just had strength to collect in her handkerchief when she found herself becoming helpless; there was a quantity of loose silver, some gold, her keys, passage ticket, and other matters, all of which I tied up in the handkerchief, and putting it into my own pocket, hastened away to get her some water. When I returned, she was on the floor, and insensible. Fortunately there were two medical men among the passengers, and they speedily took the most effective measures; it was a sunstroke. She was the only lady on board with whom I had become much acquainted; I had been interested in her, poor thing. An invalid herself, she was taking home a sickly child,
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leaving her husband behind her; and to see her in this lamentable state, with her poor, frightened, troublesome young child beside her, was almost more than I could, bear, weak and ill as I myself was. However, I was able to help in doing what was requisite, and as she soon slightly revived, she always knew me when I was near her, and taking my hand, feebly pressed it, and tried, to speak.
As we were not to leave Suez till seven that evening, we got her undressed; the doctors made a bed of chairs for her, procured cans of water and quantities of ice, and some one or other was the whole day pouring the water over her head. Just before starting time we put her dress on her again, tied her other clothes up in a bundle, and one of the doctors, who had been most constant and kind in his attentions (the other had his own wife and child to attend to), had her carried on a litter into a convenient invalid railway carriage, and provided with large quantities of ice, attended her alone on the journey throughout the night. In the middle of the night he came to me for her ticket, and I then gave up into his care all her possessions that she had entrusted to me. When we stopped at Cairo, he again came to me, and asked me to take charge of her little girl while he brought the poor mother in his arms into the station, and afterwards replaced her again with the same care, when we again pursued our journey. But for that truly kind-hearted and skilful man, that poor lone woman would probably have died. Whether she finally recovered, I never knew; I saw her no more, for she was carried on board the Southampton steamer, and my route lay by Marseilles, as did also that of the kind doctor, but he saw her safely placed, and under the care of the medical man of the ship she went by, and he told me she had sufficiently recovered to be able to say whither she was to be taken. I must say a few words respecting the hotel at Suez. It is a very large establishment, extending round the four sides of a large open square, in which stand vases of plants, and other
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ornamental things. Under an awning are the long tables at which the meals are served; the lower parts of the building appear to be chiefly domestic offices; the upper part has a large public saloon, fitted all round with broad ottomans and large soft cushions, handsome furniture, grand pianoforte, splendid chandelier, an Egyptian-painted ceiling, and many large windows opening into a covered balcony, and the door into a wide corridor, with jalousies the whole length of it; all the rest consists of sitting and sleeping-rooms, looking very comfortable, but there is no attention to be had, excepting from plenty of native waiters, who bring you everything you order in the way of iced drinks. In case of illness, however, there is no one; you inquire in vain for any woman. We could not get a bedroom to lay our poor invalid in without hiring one for the night, neither was it possible to obtain a cup of tea for her until, as they said, after dinner, i. e., about six o'clock. The other invalids had been carried by their respective gentlemen straight to the divans round the great saloon, the whole of which were speedily occupied; (there were many other passengers there before us who had come by a French packet.) The married gentlemen always, of course, established their wives and babies in the most comfortable places, and themselves in the next best; any single lady who does not think it worth while to press herself upon their attention, or fight for a place, may go without.
Tiffin was at one o'clock, and I had taken a ticket for it, price four shillings; finding, however, when the time came, that I should be quite unable to eat a morsel, I changed it for a five o'clock dinner ticket, which cost six shillings. Everything very dear, and curiously bad. Ducks of mere skin and bone, and chickens scarcely larger than pigeons, yet tough as leather, quite uneatable; everything else equally bad. The look of the pastry was enough, and there was no fruit but what was dried, and some very minute hard peaches, which were tolerably sweet, when you could manage to get your
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teeth into one; also some particularly bad imported grapes. I omitted to mention that at Aden also there was no fruit to be had, except dates, limes (said to be imported), and very small, tasteless melons, not larger than oranges. No one attempted to quit the shelter of the hotel at Suez until it was time to start; and all I saw remarkable, besides the general eastern character of everything, were some large, handsome, happy-looking goats, with curiously long drooping ears, and having, apparently, a great abundance of milk; also some lively and brisk-looking donkeys. After sunset, at about half-past six, all issued forth for the railway. The carriages are tolerably comfortable, made in three compartments, opening into each other, and doors only at the extreme ends, opening each on to small platforms, which divide the carriage from the next. They are ill-suited for seeing, the windows being small, and placed high up in the sides, with looking-glasses between, or where the doors of carriages usually are, on both sides; so that if you wish to look out you must sit bolt upright, with craned neck, or stand up entirely. The only idea seems to be to keep the sand out as much as possible. At seven o'clock away we went flying over the desert. I put myself to all due inconvenience as long as any daylight lasted, to see what it was like, but found it as uninviting to- view as I had always heard it was. It was a moonlight night, but whenever I looked out it was still sand, sand, sand. On the side furthest from where I sat, there seemed to be some rising ground in the distance, but the ladies on that side put the blinds half way up the very small allowance of window, so at last I resigned myself to my exhaustion, and following the example of all my companions, fell asleep, waking up every now and then to look out, but found it still the same. I observed, however, that we sometimes went through cuttings higher, occasionally, than the tops of the carriages, so I suppose the desert is not all a dead level.
There were three stations before we reached Cairo, at midnight, but they seemed to be quite isolated, and,
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so far as I could make them out, wretched-looking places. I have not alluded yet to the greatest disappointment I had in all these my wanderings, but the time has come, and it must be told. I think it was almost my chief object in coming by this route, that I wished so much to see Cairo, the Pyramids, etc.; but, alas! as long ago as when we were at Galle, we became aware of the improbability of our halting there at all in consequence of the cholera raging there; and even had this not been the case, we should have been hurried on equally, as it was supposed, in order to make up for lost time, our mails being behindhand. Every one save myself was glad of this arrangement; but I can find no words to express my disappointment--so let it pass.
At twelve o'clock at night we stopped at the Cairo station, a large and stylish place, with handsome and spacious refreshment-room, and a harp and a flute playing together very pleasantly within it. The gentlemen made a rush, and brought the ladies tea, etc. I had a cup of liquid so called, boiling hot, and no taste of anything whatever. This abominable stuff was charged 2s. a cup, lemonade 2s. a glass, and everything at the same rate. Champagne, which those who tried it declared to be very bad gooseberry wine, 10s. a bottle (it was 8s. a pint at Suez, but was pretty good there). The Peninsula and Oriental Company had formerly all the hotels on the route under their own control, and nothing was charged to their passengers for refreshments, but they have now sold them to any one who would buy, and the owners are free to victimize the travellers as they choose. That at Suez is kept by an Italian, and this one also by some foreigners. I have been told that they sometimes refuse to give any change at the Cairo station; that upon one occasion when this happened, a gentleman, enraged, jumped over the counter to take it by force, and they then drew their knives upon him (the lady who told me this was herself present at the time): he does not appear to have been hurt; I suppose he very prudently jumped back again in good time. We found
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very comfortable ladies' room here, with an Englishwoman attendant, and nice fresh water and towels-- most acceptable luxuries, for we were powdered from head to foot like millers with the fine white sand. I had not found it penetrate very much until the last few miles before reaching Cairo, when we passed by much cultivated land, and trees growing rather abundantly, and where the soil being therefore more loosened, blew about more; and the carriages were filled with clouds of it; the trees were quite covered by this sand; and in the moonlight it looked like snow upon them.
We were allowed only twenty minutes at the Cairo station, and then passing. through more trees, presently came to a dead stop of three-quarters of an hour at a telegraph station; for, as there is but a single line, they had to telegraph in order to know whether it was all clear, and to have it kept so; which proved to be very necessary, for when we reached the next station we found another train, which had been moved off the line, and was waiting for ours to pass. I kept awake and watchful for long after we left Cairo, in the forlorn hope of a distant view of the largest of the pyramids by moonlight, but in vain, nothing that I could fancy into the shadow of it even was to be seen, nor anything; else, save long strings of camels and donkeys, going briskly along with their riders.
The night was deliciously cool, and after a twelve hours' journey, we stopped somewhere short of the Alexandria station at seven in the morning. The distance is about 220 miles--i. e., 90 from Suez to Cairo, and about 130 from thence to Alexandria. For a whole hour we had to remain here in the carriages, with the hot sun shining upon us, and lines of luggage-trucks on both sides, excluding the air. At last we were told that, for some reason or other unexplained at the time, we must alight there, though the station is at the wharf, close to the embarking place, and there was here not even a platform to step upon. We had to scramble down from a considerable height, therefore, onto the line as best
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we could, and then had a quarter of an hour's walk between rows of stationary carriages and trucks, so close that we had sometimes to go sideways. We afterwards learnt that there had. been an accident; some carriages of another train had run off the rails, and blocked up the line, so that they could not get them removed out of our way. At last we got to the wharf, and on board a small steamer that was awaiting us, and went off at once, first to the Southampton steamer, where we put on board all our passengers, save about a dozen gentlemen and myself, then to the Marseilles steamer, the "Massilia," where the rest of us were deposited, all but two or three, who were afterwards taken to the Trieste steamer. To my great joy, I found I was to have a comfortable cabin to myself, though there was another lady already on board, and two more coming from Alexandria.
I now began making inquiries as to the probability of getting on shore, as I, of course, wished not to miss seeing the city of Alexandria, if I could help it; and I was desirous also of sending a telegram to England announcing my safe arrival so far. I was advised not to go on account of the cholera; but I could not get up a fear about that. 1
I found that none of the gentlemen intended going, for after breakfast, which we were just in time for on board the "Massilia" at nine o'clock, they were all intent only upon going to sleep, exhausted by their night's journey through the desert. I dreaded going alone, knowing what shameless swindlers all these Orientals are, and the fights that gentlemen have with them; what then, would a woman alone have to encounter? Yet I could not give up the desire; so after making all the inquiries I could as to the right fares, both by water
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and land, I got into a boat that was alongside, and went by myself.
Before doing so, however, I said to the boatman, "Your fare is sixpence. I will give you a shilling, and no more !" I thought this but just, as I was the only passenger, and hoped to avoid extortion by stating my intention beforehand.
"All right! yaas!" was the answer.
When we were near the shore they asked for the money, and I gave it.
"Dat for me! Oder man and boat four shilling more!"
A tremendous clamour and jabber commenced on my refusal to pay more. It was long before they would land me, and they then followed me, vociferating together with another man, who demanded backseesh for helping me out of the boat, as he said, and six others, all offering their carriages or donkeys, and themselves, as dragomans.
I asked, "How much carriage to telegraph-office and back?"
"Ten shilling."
"Nonsense!"
"Eight. "
"Stuff!"
"Seven-six."
"I will give five shillings, and no more!"
"Yaas, five shilling! all right! here my carriage, sare, see!" shouted the six all at once, trying to lead me in different directions, while those who were still clamouring for backseesh dared to take hold of my arm to keep me back. This was too much, and I turned with such a furious look upon them as I disengaged myself, that they troubled me no more.
I got into one of the carriages, saying as I did so, "Five shillings, mind, there and back, no more!"
"Oh, yaas; right, sare!" and off we went.
As we started, another man jumped up beside the driver, and after a few minutes, turned round and said,
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"Dees man not know telegraph-office; I show him. I your dragoman, sare. I show you Grand Square, bazaar, all places. "
I shook my head, and paid no further attention to him, as I wanted to use all my eyes and observation as I went along.
We passed rapidly through many narrow streets (all these eastern towns have narrow streets), dashed round sharp corners, waited for nobody, the driver shouting to every one before him, and they dispersing right and left, evidently according to custom, to avoid being driven over. Fortunately the Grand Square was in our road, so that I got a sight of that as we dashed through it. I did not venture to stop him, even for a minute, well knowing that if I did so, unlimited demands would be the consequence.
I think what seemed most curious to me was the costume of the women, clothed in long straight robes down to their feet, scarves covering their heads and shoulders, and faces entirely hidden, all but the eyes. These coverings for the face are so thick as quite to conceal every feature and colour. Their skins might be black or white, no one could ascertain. The stuff is generally white, but often coloured. Sometimes two holes are cut for the eyes; in others, the covering appears to be in two parts, the portions above and below the eyes being joined by a strap, or band, of the same, or of gold, which passes up between the eyes. The effect is very strange.
It was rather a long drive to the telegraph-office, and so enabled me to see a great part of the town. Having sent off my message, which they told me would be received in London the same afternoon, 2 I drove back again, the dragoman having in vain tried to persuade me to stop at the bazaar, which I should probably have done could I have been freed from him; but
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I refused, knowing that he would, demand extortionate payment, if I let him even pretend to show me anything, and that fair remuneration never will suffice; indeed, offer what you will, they always clamour for more, and I had been warned that the bazaars and shops also cheat most outrageously.
Arrived again at the wharf, I tendered the five shillings to the driver; but the other man interposed, saying, "Carriage mine; he my man!"
In this the driver also acquiesced, and I, therefore, paid the money to the other.
"Dees for carriage; I dragoman: five shilling more for me."
I had been prepared to give him a shilling if he demanded anything, so I said, "I did not want you, and you have done nothing; but here is a shilling for you."
He refused to take it, and put himself in a great rage. "You, sare, you offer shilling to dragoman! Ask, sare, any one tell you dragoman five shilling!"
"Nonsense, I did not engage you, or want you; take the shilling or nothing."
"Shilling! dragoman!" he again vociferated furiously. "Oder man not know telegraph-office; he no take you widout I show him."
This, of course, was false, for it had been evident, from his reckless driving and turnings that he had no hesitation as to the way he was to take, nor had he any business to engage to drive any one if he did not know his way; but of course I made no attempt to argue the matter. I put the shilling back in my pocket, and stepped into the boat, telling them to go off to the "Massilia;" but this troublesome fellow got in too, and the boatmen, just pushing off far enough to prevent my stepping back again, remained stationary, while he kept up such a clamour as English untravelled ears seldom hear--I meanwhile trying to make the boatmen proceed, but in vain, for all these cheats act together. I looked helplessly about; there was no European
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anywhere in sight, nor any one to appeal to. For some time I could see no way of escape from the boat, and I could but sit silently while the storm of gibberish raged on, thoroughly determined to tire them out, and give not one farthing more than I had offered.
At last I perceived, that the end of the boat furthest from where I sat had accidentally touched another boat, and from that one I might just manage, I thought, to clamber up on the wharf. In a moment I made a quick rush along the boat, and before they could see my design, I had jumped into the other and scrambled out, and up the side of the wharf, at the risk of breaking my legs or falling into the water. I then walked a little way hoping to find some European, but there was no one, and no road up from this part of the wharf into the town. I turned back, therefore, to reach another part of it, and all this time the wretch who had followed me, kept close to my side, shouting, "Give me my money, let me go," etc.
I applied to several other boats to take me, but either they did not understand, or would not do it. The men from my boat were also following me, urging me to return to it. After making them promise to start instantly if I got in again, I did so; not that a promise was worth anything, of course, but they seemed now to have had enough of it. The other fellow also got in again.
"Give me shilling, let me go," he now said.
I replied, "You refused it, and you don't deserve it."
"Give him shilling and go," chimed in the boatmen. So I gave him his shilling, and at last we were off; and, strange to say, they put me on board the steamer without any further attempt at fraud, but quietly took the shilling I tendered for the fare, and said nothing, though they were the same men who had so tormented me before. How I fought through this battle, I hardly know; but it never entered my mind for a moment to end it by submitting to their demands; for so great is
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my detestation of cheatery and extortion, that I would, almost endure anything rather than seem, even indirectly, to encourage them.
My next care, after finding myself again on board, was to ascertain that all my property had reached the ship safely, and two packages were found to be missing. There was little doubt they had been put on board the Southampton steamer by mistake, though directed in full; and one of them soon after arrived in a boat from thence, with some stray things belonging to the other passengers.
We were to sail at five o'clock, all the three steamers together, and as the hour was fast approaching, I feared to go off in search of my property, lest I should not get back in time; so I could but tell every one I knew, and all who appeared to be in any authority, of my missing package--and at last began to resign myself to its loss, for no one seemed disposed to stir in my behalf, when our clergyman, who was still with us, very kindly took the matter up in good earnest, and was preparing to go himself on board the other vessel to look for it, which seemed to shame those whose duty it was, into sending off one of the officers for the purpose. And he actually found it at last, stowed away under a pianoforte in the cabin of the Southampton steamer, bringing it off in triumph just as that ship started. So that all my troubles were now over, and I had only to make myself happy on the "blue Mediterranean," which is no bluer than any other deep sea, under a blue sky.
The harbour of Alexandria looked busy and crowded, though very spacious. The ships stood so close together, that there was but a narrow passage left from the shore between them, through which the little steamer that first brought us off, could just steer safely, the square yards of the great ships almost touching each other over us.
We were anchored opposite to the Viceroy's palace, and had a capital view of it. It is a very extensive and handsome building, its sea-front standing almost in the
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water. As we came out, we passed his summer palace, out of the town, also very handsome, and built in Turkish style. One is struck by the multiplicity of small windmills here, standing thickly, twenty or thirty together, in irregular groups. I generally find it very difficult to obtain any correct information in answer to questions respecting places or things that we may pass. In the present instance, my inquiries as to the use of these mills received two answers--one, that they were for drawing up water; another, that they were all for grinding corn, of which two crops a year are grown here. One pointed out to me what he said were the catacombs; another told me they were not visible anywhere from the sea.
Though the other two steamers got off before us, we soon overtook and left them far behind. So we have once more the pleasure of being in "a fast boat," and a most delightful one, too, in many other respects. In the first place, it is a paddle and not a screw steamer, which alone is a change almost into paradise; we are gliding swiftly along, with scarcely any perceptible motion, over a perfectly calm sea. Then I have a large square porthole open day and night in my roomy cabin, which opens into the ladies' saloon, in which there is no one, and across that into a delightful bath-room, with hot and cold water. I feel as luxurious as a princess, getting up at six o'clock each morning to a deliciously-oool bath, then to bed again, with a cup of tea and a leisurely toilet, in time for a nine o'clock breakfast, and so thankful to think that I have been preserved in comparative health and strength through all the trials and miserable discomforts we have undergone, and not laid low and helpless by fever or sunstroke!
Providence has been very merciful to me. I bear about me still the effects of what I have suffered, and my hands remain terribly swollen and blistered, but I have escaped better than most of my fellow-passengers. The living and cooking are extremely good and liberal on board this ship, and the dinners served a la Russe.
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no mangling done at table. An excellent brass band plays for an hour on deck every morning, and another of various instruments, aided by a harmonium, for an hour and a half every evening in the saloon; all the best operatic music, perfectly well played, and a regular programme of the intended performance drawn up daily. The flourish of a bugle calls us to breakfast and to luncheon; the latter generally consists of ices; the same instrument summons us to dinner, with the tune of "The Roast Beef of Old England," and to tea by "Polly put the Kettle on."
We have the Earl and Countess of H----- on board, and the Countess's sister, and one other lady; also a Pasha and suite; he is a very important personage they say, ranking next to the Viceroy himself. He came off from Alexandria in a very grand and luxurious barge; two other barges, almost as handsome, attending him, filled with important-looking individuals, who all came on board to take leave of this great man. These barges were cushioned with satin damask, richly figured, had handsome awnings, and Egyptian rowers-- eighteen oars in one and fourteen in each of the others, two on each bench.
On the third night after leaving Alexandria (or rather at two in the morning) we cast anchor in the harbour of Malta. We knew that we should stay only long enough to deliver and receive the mails, that anyone landing would not be allowed to return, and that no one from shore would be permitted to come on board, even though they were intending passengers; for this dreadful cholera is there. This was another great disappointment to me, only second to that of missing Cairo. I lost no time, however, in dressing and going on deck, in order to see all I could. I found we were in a not very large harbour, with strong military walls and fortifications nearly all round it. It was a bright moonlight night, but the dew falling so heavily that it was more like rain. I was protected, however, by my waterproof cloak, that had served me so many good
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turns already by day and night, and stayed to see the rather amusing ceremonies and precautions that went on. Two or three official boats, with lights in them, came off, but did not come alongside; they approached only near enough to hand up the ship's papers, etc., in a fumigated shovel at the end of a long handle, to one of our officers, who went down and stood on the ship's steps to receive them at arm's length. They told us there had been but seven new cases of cholera that day, and only seventy-two in all since it broke out. They were as afraid of us as we of them, and they would not have permitted us to land even had we intended to do so, because we had come from Alexandria. We had three passengers to leave there, and they were taken in the ship's boat with the mail and landed at the lazaretto, where they would have to stay a considerable time before being admitted into the town. They say the cholera was taken to Malta by a shipload of people from Alexandria who were flying from the disease there, and notwithstanding that they were kept at the lazaretto for fourteen days, they spread the infection (a not very probable tale). We had expected to receive the mails and to be off again within two hours, but they kept us five, so that we could not leave till seven in the morning (because the officials, it was said, did not choose to get out of their beds in the middle of the night). As we went out of the harbour, I had a good view of all that was to be seen of the town. It is a fine, solid-looking place, and apparently built of the rock on which it stands, as it is all of the same whitish-grey coloured stone.
I can just say that I have seen Sicily, for we passed along its south-west coast the same afternoon, but the atmosphere was hazy, and we were too far off to discern more than that there was much high land and a lighthouse. The wind rose that night to "half a gale," and the sea so high that my much-prized porthole had to be screwed up tight. However, all was right again the next day, when we coasted up the eastern side of Sardinia, and in
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the evening passed between it and Corsica, through the Straits of Bonifacio; it was, however, then dark, and no moon, so that we saw nothing of the beautiful scenery of this country.
We were now expecting to reach Marseilles on the following day (Sunday), and there was much anxiety felt about quarantine, there being two or three cases of illness on board (and the captain being one of them). They were all cases of diarrhoea, but it was hoped our doctor would be able to declare that there were no symptoms of cholera. One passenger was prayed for on Sunday morning, when our clergyman performed the service, and gave us a sermon; we had also chanting and the harmonium.
We expect to be objects of terror, from the mere fact of our having come from Alexandria, though we have had no actual case of the dreaded disease, and have what is called a "clean hill of health" to produce.
