1838 - Polack, J. S. New Zealand [Vol.I] [Capper reprint, 1974] - Chapter IV

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CHAPTER IV.

THE rain now descended in torrents, my clothes were quickly saturated, and clung to my body without the aid of belt or brace. The hill paths were of a slippery clay, and difficult enough to ascend. The rain poured down these steeps like so many rivulets, that scarcely enabled me to keep on my feet, from the rush of water. I joined my people, who had taken off their native garments, a goodly supply of which had been plentifully bestowed on them, in exchange for their worn out rags. These they had carefully

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JOURNEY IN A STORM.

folded up in as small a compass as possible, and had them carried beneath their provision-baskets safe from the rain. We found the ascent to the mountains very difficult and tedious; the valleys below were becoming swamps from the heavy torrents that were falling. Had we waited another day, this road, which was the nearest track to the sea, would have been impassable. After a long, tedious travel, every foot of which was attended with danger, from the mountain-path not being a foot broad, which wound alongside steep declivities, as slippery as could well be, we were gratified with a view of the sandhills, which announced the sea-shore to be within the distance of half a mile. These hills were found more pleasant to pass than when we first travelled among them; the rain had rendered the sand more tenacious.

A cold southerly wind now struck up, and, wet as I was, almost benumbed me. The storm now ceased on the coast; but the rain still fell in abundance at Waipoa, which we beheld descending among the distant mountains. My comrades, who had hitherto walked in perfect nudity, except the two females, now put on their clothes, on the rain having ceased, laughing at the saturated mass that weighed heavily on me; but, after a quick walk on the beach, my gar-

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A SUPPOSED FOE.

ments soon dried in the wind and sun which now presented itself; and saved me the delay of stopping to change my suit.

Tamaroa, who kept by my side, pointed out to me three men at a distance, who were shortly withdrawn from our sight by an indent in the beach; and not perceiving any footmarks imprinted in the sand as having passed our way, concluded they were coming towards us. My troop, which consisted of fourteen persons, made up to me with terrified looks, and begged I would not proceed further, or we should be all murdered. I laughed at their fears, and bade them not to be afraid of three persons, when our party numbered so many; but my arguments had no effect, and I was allowed to proceed alone; and, instead of the company straggling as they had hitherto done, they huddled together as close to the edge of the bank as they could conveniently walk.

The supposed foe advanced nearer, and proved to be an old sage, uncle to Parore, on a visit to his nephew, accompanied by two servants, who carried an entire pig, well roasted, as a present, This savoury animal, appeared greatly to retard the progress of these travellers; I, therefore, purchased it of the old gentleman, who then pursued his route. This ancient felt

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SWINISH BEDFELLOWS.

a great inclination to tangi with Tamaroa, who was nearly related to him; but I hastened the latter, who had also, as well as myself, lost all taste for the display. The roasted pig gave a further respite to the living one, who trudged on, grunting right merrily, after us. These amiable animals lead a much pleasanter life in New Zealand than in any other portion of the globe I have seen, except in the principal cities of the United States (1838), where these "tarnal critturs" grace the most fashionable streets of the capitals. Among these primitive natives, the pigs often share the beds of their owners; and, perhaps, few things struck me as more unique in its way, than when entering (by mistake) the dormitory of two native ladies, who were locked in the embraces of the drowsy god, I perceived the lengthy ears and snout of a sleek black pig, who was covered to the throat by the blanket that also served to enwrap the young ladies, who were lying upon either side of him. This interesting brute was "sighing like a furnace," either incommoded by tic douloureux or over repletion.

In our travel along the beach, we passed over several beds of stones similar to those we had seen to the northward; also the pleasant runs of water at Waikara, Herito, and Tariri.

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THE DEAD SHARK.

We had travelled several miles from Waipoa, and had approached within three miles of the bluff headland of Maunganui, when we halted on the beach, opposite to a valley that led to the mountains inland. The bluff appeared in frowning majesty, surrounded by mists that at times enveloped and hid it from our sight. Notwithstanding its distance, I was determined to view its base more closely, as we had the advantage of the ebb-tide. This projecting precipice prevents the communication along the beach to the southward. Tamaroa alone accompanied me. Immense rocks and stones were strewed along the shore. On approaching towards the mountain, my olfactory nerves had been for some time discomposed; I now found the cause to proceed from the dead body of a shark, which had been cast on the beach full a month previously; and stormy tides had washed it high and dry on the beach. This offensive object was in the last state of putridity and decomposition; and on Tamaroa approaching it, myriads of gad-flies issued from the body, which was about seven feet in length. My companion eyed it much, I rather thought wistfully, and observed, that the mango, or shark, was a rich treat to the New Zealanders. I assented, when it was to be had in a fresh

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HEADLAND OF MAUNGANUI.

state, but not in the disgusting condition of the fish before us.

The nearer we advanced towards the bluff, the more stupendous it appeared. I calculated the height between 2500 and 3000 feet. The coast was lined with immense rocks that, from their position, were doubtless hurled about the beach during the prevalence of heavy storms, which cause the flood-tide to burst on the shore in long heavy rollers, at once astounding from their headlong force and magnificence. The foot of the bluff was imbricated into several deep subterranean caverns, whose gorges are eternally hollowed by the continually returning waves; the effects from the spray of these seas were visible on the precipice, at a distance of near 300 feet perpendicular above the mountain base.

Even on this day, when the sea was unusually calm, the hollow moaning of the waves, dashing among the submarine excavations formed in the black craggy rocks, which spurted up the spray to a great height, made me pause, lost in awe and wonder, I was entranced in this spot of solitary horror, and will acknowledge, I most fervently prayed to the great and merciful Father, Creator of the universe and its various inhabitants, whose utmost power and skill were as

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RETRACE OUR ROUTE.

nothing placed in competition with the stupendous works around me, that had never before been so nearly approached by civilised man.

We now retraced our steps, passing again the offensive shark, which appeared to attract the attention of my comrade very much. Many pieces of whalebone lay strewed about the beach, bleaching in the sun. On our arrival at the valley where we left our companions, none of them were to be seen; we supposed they had passed on to Tangiari, where we had proposed to encamp for the night. We accordingly turned from the sea-shore and entered the valley. Tamaroa soon distinguished the path our precursors had taken, from the crushed leaves of the trees on either side the road, and the fallen leaves of the kaikatoa-tree, which had been brushed off in passing by the garments of our friends having come in contact.

We continued our path through the valley until we came to a rising hill, up which we ascended. This travelling was very fatiguing, from the clayey slipperiness of the soil, and the rain which rested on the surrounding bushes and fern, growing here to the height of ten feet; these had become so matted, as to render further advance almost impossible, beside plen-teously sprinkling us with the moisture which

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SWAMPY COUNTRY.

the leaves had arrested. After ascending several high hills which adjoin the elevated lands of Maunganui, we descended into a deep flat valley, covered with the korari, or flax plant. The greater portion of this place was covered with water, from the rains that had fallen, and was, in winter, one of those flax swamps that abound in New Zealand, which only require the agricultural tact of civilised man to convert into the richest land, by draining. The soil of the surrounding mountains is washed down in these valleys by the rains.

Tamaroa, who was as sprightly as could well be, requested to carry me over. He would admit of no refusal, but, previously to my accepting his offers, we heard a native kuhi, or halloo, which came from two of our comrades who had halted here, to relieve Tamaroa carrying me. This swamp extended five miles. Some parts wore barely passable. It was surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills. My companions were of essential service, and we crossed this swampy pampas much quicker than I had previously expected. I dismounted from the back of these relays, having arrived at the foot of a steep hill, whose path was as difficult to get through as those we had previously encountered.

After some delay we arrived at the summit,

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INLAND SCENERY.

which consisted of a wide extended plain, some miles in circumference. The soil was arid and gravelly; the vegetable mould was but a few inches in depth, on a tough argillaceous earth. The rourou, or plain, was covered with the roi, or fern, and the ever-flowering kaikatoa, which emitted a fragrant odour. The native path ran its narrow circuitous course as is usual in all the roads. The plain was terminated by a forest of much less elevation.

There is scarcely a more splendid sight to behold than a New Zealand forest. In the one we now entered, we did not perceive any kouri, or yellow pine-trees; but the totara, or red pine, grew in vast abundance. Some of these trees were of immense size, from twenty to thirty feet in circumference, growing to a height of sixty feet. The rito, and innumerable other palm-trees, were in great quantity.

As we emerged from the forest, we entered on a small plain, that had the handsome appearance of an English park; it was beautifully picturesque; and it was with difficulty I could acknowledge to myself, the hand of man had not planned the scene. The clematis, campanula trachelium, or bell flower, whose hues, white, red, and yellow, with the convolvulus, or bind-weed, and innumerable indigenous Hands,

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BIVOUAC AT TANGIARI.

hung around in pleasing disorder. After passing this lovely little territory, we again entered a forest which extended about two miles: This latter route was particularly fatiguing, from the immense spreading roots of trees which rose to a gigantic height, cutting the feet and tripping us at almost every step. The loose soil around was also annoying from the late rains that had fallen, which rendered the place quite a quagmire. Several purling streams gently meandered through this forest; and heartily glad were we on emerging once more to the plains, which were distinguished as belonging to the district of Kaihu, which joins those of the Kaipara.

We pushed on some five miles further, much fatigued, from the last forest we had travelled through; and soon reached Tangiari, and were pleased to find our friends encamped. Sheds had been erected for the night, covered with the kaikatoa bush, and a plentiful supply of firewood, calculated to serve for the night. The necessary operation of cooking was soon effected, and the repast served up. Some provision was also cooked for the breakfast of the ensuing morning. After supper, the young men, notwithstanding the fatigues of travelling, commenced a haka, with the usual gesticulations accompanying the dance; and concluded their

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CHACUN A SON GOUT.

amusements by wrestling matches, in which they exhibited but little skill. I retired to rest early. Tangiari is a pleasant resting-place, much frequented by native travellers. It is situated in a deep valley; the hills around are covered with stunted trees, affording fuel in plenty; a pleasant, murmuring rivulet, runs through the valley. I arose the ensuing morning at five o'clock, and was surprised to find the two young women only outside the sheds; I called to the lads, who entreated for a respite of a further half hour; I granted the request; but, perceiving the young females laughing, I felt assured there was some secret hidden from me. It was with much difficulty I could get an explanation, when they informed me the boys had been absent all night, after I had retired to rest, and had hastened to the sea-shore, regardless of the distance, to devour the putrid shark; and, having filled themselves to repletion, they had slept a short time near the scene of their barbarous tastes, and had returned to Tangiari an hour before daybreak. As early as they arose, I spoke to them with angry feelings; I could not sufficiently censure their bestiality. They listened with much apathy and patience; and, after packing up our apparatus, we pursued our way up the steep side of the hills, which

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WOODLAND CONCERT.

plentifully sprinkled us with dew, and entered the plains of Kaihu.

The numerous birds had, at the earliest dawn of day, commenced their melodious war-blings, while my companions were still buried in sleep --"nature's sweet nurse;" not a sound disturbed the quiet repose; every thing in nature was still and at rest, save those winged choristers of the bush, skipping among the branches, whose musically sweet and varied notes, echoed through the valley. On my approaching these birds, they did not betray any fear, but perched themselves on the overhanging branches, in appearance wondering at a being whose unusual garb and complexion had never pierced these solitudes before.

Among the birds that distinguished themselves in this woodland concert, were the tui, or mocking-bird, the korimaku, kohapiroa, and tiaki. The little restless piwakawaka, a kind of thrush, who is incessantly hopping from twig to twig, put forth its single note. The wild melody of the birds in a New Zealand forest, is superior to any strains of the kind I have ever heard. Their notes are so exquisitely clear, that the stranger traveller is arrested in his progress, and feels enchained to the spot. This melody commences at the earliest dawn, gradually in-

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FOREST TREES.

creases with the addition of light, as the early mists pass away, and ceases at sunrise.

We now arrived at the end of the plain, which was bordered by the almost impervious forest of Pamaki, which was densely studded with splendid kouri-trees, many of which were between twenty and thirty feet in circumference at the base, and the trunk gently tapering, as straight as an arrow, without a branch to ninety feet. The heads of these trees were so umbrageous as to cast a deep shade around, and exclude from that part of the forest the sight of the heavens. The base of these trees and the earth around, was covered with the kapia, or gum, that exudes in large quantities from their trunks. Many other trees abounded in Pamaki, such as the kaikatea, towai, rewa-rewa, totara, puriri, rata, kahika, tipow, tanikaha, rimu, and various kinds of akkas, all of which will be found described in the Appendix (Note 7). The supplejack was found very annoying. This liand, of the thickness of a stout rattan, entwined itself among the trees, and much impeded our progress, by interlacing across our path; it is very elastic. On the branches of the rata and other trees, where the soil had been raised by heavy gusts of wind, or had arrested vegetable matter in its fall, flourished the wild indigenous para-

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FOREST OF PAMAKI.

sitical plant called tawara (Astilia angustifolia). The kukupa, or wild pigeon, often larger than the European bird of the same genus, nocked in numbers through these solitary wilds; they were easily distinguished by their whistling note and the ruffling noise of their wings, while volitary among the trees. Parrots and parroquets also fluttered around. The plumage of these birds is truly beautiful. We occupied four hours in passing through this forest; my companions keeping pace with me, although heavily laden.

On emerging from Pamaki, we ascended another plain of some miles in circumference, covered with fern and bush, above which the tupakihi, or native elder-berry, occasionally shewed its bending stem, yielding to the weight of the fruit, which hung in purple clusters. I partook of some of those berries, which are very pleasant to the taste, but crimson the lips and hands of those who make use of them. The natives, on perceiving me make use of this berry, warned me not to swallow any of the seeds, as the doing so would make roe ourangi, drunk, or mad. I abstained from doing so; but, at a later period of my residence in New Zealand, I neglected this precautionary measure, and suffered severely for it, being obliged to have recourse to powerful antidotes, to rid my-

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SCENERY.

self of the noxious effects. On descending the plain we came to a flax swamp, which was passable, as the rains do not fall so heavily in the champaign country. This swamp was in length about three miles, and perhaps two miles in breadth; I crossed over without assistance. Several water-runs and deep narrow gullets extended across the swamp. These places are agreeable enough to the traveller in summer, when dried up by the powerful rays of the sun. This swamp was covered with a wiry kind of tussuck grass, almost the consistence of small reeds and sharp-pointed.

The raupo, or flag bulrush, was waving by the gentle breeze in those spots that were still undried; these little oases appeared peculiarly green amid the sombre-coloured reed grass, and pointed to the traveller the places it was necessary he should avoid. At the termination of the swamp, we again ascended the hills, and pursued our way over another elevated table land. Here we had every variety of natural scenery: watercourses, very deep and narrow, which we crossed by native bridges, formed of a tree branch, flung hastily across.

We pursued our route over a succession of hill and valley, bush and plain, swamp and forest, which presented continually something to please

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FASHIONS OF THE NATIVES.

the sight. We arrived near sunset on the borders of a creek that gently wound its way through the surrounding woods and fertile valleys. This rivulet, which flowed into the Kaihu river, meandered in so serpentine a form, as almost to join itself in several places, having the appearance of mixing its pellucid waters with another stream. Here we rested, being within a short distance of the residence of Kaka, an ancient chief, on whose hospitality I depended for getting some canoes, to enable me to pursue the principal object I had in view.

My people who had parted with their former finery, now arranged their native dresses. Puhi, who was an admirable native friseur, arranged the hair of the gentlemen, placing, with the gout of a connoisseur, the various feathers of the uia and tara, sea-fowl, that assisted the decoration. The red kokowai was abundantly made use of. Puhi, anxious to attract the attention of the native belles whom we expected to meet, had painted one half of his countenance from the forehead to the throat with this mixture, or substitute for rouge, and the other half with powdered charcoal, mixed with rancid shark oil. The line of black and red joined in the centre of his forehead--continued down his nose to the throat. The two females who accompanied us

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FEMALE ARRANGEMENTS.

were not a little solicitous as to the effect their charms might produce among our assembled friends.

They had simply decorated their hair, which was beautifully dark and glossy, hanging with rich profusion in natural ringlets, with the pretty yellow flower of the towai, which hung in heavy clusters from that tree on the banks of the stream, which reflected the flowers from the bending branches. From their ears were appended the dried feathered skin of the little tiwakawaha-bird, whose body, when living, is scarcely larger than a walnut. They did not make use of the paint. A couple of new check shirts, put on with the bosoms behind, and red dashing kerchiefs for the throat, which I had presented to their husbands, served to aid their wardrobe, over which they had gracefully placed their native garments, made of the snow-white silken flax, which descended in ample folds to their feet.

As early as the preparations were completed, the gentlemen discharged their guns, that were no sooner heard in the Pa, which was situated on an elevated plain within a trifling distance, than a loud shout issued from the place. Every body appeared in confusion; women, with children in their arms, running about, wringing their

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ARRIVE AT A VILLAGE.

hands, and making hideous outcries. We were joined by one of the inhabitants, quite naked, but armed to the teeth, with his loaded musket, which he was ready to discharge; his cartridge-box filled, appended to his belt, in which was placed a bayonet and tomahawk. He no sooner espied me, than, with the dulcet sounds of a Stentor, he roared forth "E'paheha! E'paheha!" (a white man). This word was no sooner expressed than it had the effect of magic; it was echoed a thousand times over by the good folks of the village Pa above us. Shouts of "Airemai," or welcome, followed, accompanied by the waving of garments and boughs of trees, and by discharges of ammunition, which were returned by my party. Our new comer triumphantly bore me over the river, which we had re-crossed nine times before we quitted it.

Several old canoes, much the worse for wear, were laid up in ordinary, high and dry, on the bank. This place was so densely wooded, that we could scarcely perceive our road at any distance before us. The bush grew close to the water's edge; immense fungi spread from the decayed trees that had fallen, and intercepted our path. The entire living contents of the village came forth to meet us, except the old chief and some of his ancient nobles, who

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OUR RECEPTION.

were debarred from following the stream, by etiquette.

Men, women, and children -- the latter principally naked, the former clad in various native dresses -- came forward to meet us, shrieking the salutation of welcome and hospitality. The dogs, whose clamour I have formerly alluded to, did not degenerate from their contemporaries who were quartered to the northward; with uplifted heads, they raised a howl long and continued, that, added to the yelling of the little boys and screaming of the girls, with the self-satisfied grunting of the hog, made "confusion worse confounded."

These people knocked about me, some feeling my garments, others lifting up my trousers to examine my boots, and to determine their length. My jacket, waistcoat, hat, underwent the minutest regard; but few things gave more diversion than my pulling off an elderly pair of ci-devant black kid gloves. This comfortable article, which I sported to protect me from the irritable sand-flies, struck the circle in which I was enclosed with astonishment. Many of my gazers had not seen a white man previously; though, at the present day, there are few who are not well acquainted with Europeans: and, as my countenance was a lusus naturae to them,

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NATIVE REJOICINGS.

as being more bleached than they had seen before, they readily imagined my hands might be equally black as my face was white. The gloves were handed round to the assembled throng, who repeatedly exclaimed, "A na na, E' roai te pakeha," accompanied by long-drawn sighs, indicative of surprise among these people.

With difficulty I broke from the circle, and made up to the old chief, who sat, accompanied by his ancient warriors, fidgetting with anxious impatience for my introduction. I saluted the old gentleman, who pressed noses with me, expressive of affection and regard.

The discharge of artillery still continued; the din and bustle was now augmented by the haka, or dance of welcome, accompanied with yells of about two hundred stout and agile performers. The convulsive distortion of countenance and furious gesticulations were given with the usual eclat, and returned by my people. A sham fight was then commenced between both parties, in which muskets, and bayonets fixed on small poles, spears and paddles, came in active collision. Some smart blows were exchanged, and knock-down arguments, as such fierce play has been termed, were discussed in the best possible humour. This was no sooner concluded than they indulged themselves in the

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EXPRESSIONS OF AFFECTION.

luxury of the tangi, which was aided by the mournful yells of some sickly dogs, who, it would appear, felt it incumbent on them, for the honour of the village, to lend their services in giving effect to the general whining lamentation.

Those that did not partake in the chorus, gave me a wink to express their contempt of the ceremony; but I knew they only wanted partners in affliction to indulge themselves fully as much as the rest. Tamaroa, who was related to the chief, was fast locked in the embraces of the old man, whose plenteous effusions, that fell fast from his eyes and nose, gave me no little satisfaction that I had saluted him before the tangi commenced.

One of the females who had accompanied us met with her father, whom she no sooner beheld, not having expected to see him in this village, than she fell upon his neck, and embraced him with such marks of filial piety and tenderness as prevented me from being an unmoved spectator. The parent, who was quite gray and bowed down with old age, applied his nose to hers, large tear-drops rolling in quick succession down his aged face, which the duteous daughter wiped away with her mat, that was soon saturated with their united tears.

The mussel-shell, as usual, was made use of

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INVOCATIONS TO A DEITY

by the different groups, and their blood flowed copiously. An old lady, who had appropriated Wata for her share of the entertainment (she was his aunt), remained some time after the others had finished, excoriating herself with such cruelty, that I was astonished at the quantity of blood she had lost. A circle was then formed, the chief Kaka, and a few of his wives, sitting at the head. A tree-stump was brought for my accommodation, on which I seated myself. An elderly priestess then rose up, and commenced a chant commemorative of the circumstances of the visit; imploring the Taniwoa, or divinity of the deep, to stay his anger, if he felt disposed to be disagreeable; also to certain departed spirits which she named, bowing her head and raising her arms and hands as she pronounced the name of each, and supplicated them not to wreak their wrath on us as we passed the sacred shores where their ossified remains lie buried.

The ancient crone then invoked the manes of the illustrious dead who, in this existence, had been enemies to the Hokianga tribes, with whom my companions and I dwelt, to spare us, who had not joined in the enormities committed by those people. The wahine tohunga commenced her cantatory prayers with a subdued cadence scarcely distinguishable; but, as she entered more

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BY A PRIESTESS.

fully on the subject, she became animated with fury. Her gray locks streamed in the wind; her eyes sparkled with peculiar brightness; her countenance appeared to dilate; and, from a quiet old lady, as I supposed her at first to be, she stood now confessed, like the Pythoness of yore, dealing forth to the assembled multitude her oracular inspirations, the truth of which none of her audience doubted (save myself).

All listened with profound attention; then countenances below the eyes were hidden by a garment that served to cover the entire body as they sat on their hams. After this ovation, she sat down exhausted, and both parties seemed on the most friendly terms; Kaka promising me, as early as I pleased on the morrow, three of his best canoes.

The eager looks cast by my people behind, told me the dinner that had been cooking in that direction was being served up, as usual, in little green baskets, made expressly for each meal. This repast consisted of the usual fare, a fatted pig having been killed for the occasion. The lively grunter belonging to Tamaroa, who had travelled with us remarkably well, I determined to leave, as I could not bring myself to consent to the death of an animal possessing such social habits and natural powers of pleasing.

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GRIEVANCES OF THE CHIEF.

I presented him, accordingly, to the senior wife of the chief, first giving her a recommendation, detailing his accommodating disposition. The present was received with many thanks, and acknowledged by the substantial return of two handsome garments of the silken flax and kierrakiki plant; the latter serving as a covering impervious to the rain.

After the cloth was removed, i.e. the provision-baskets put out of sight, I entered on the business that had procured me the pleasure of visiting them; which, if success attended the result, a new mart would be opened for the thousands of acres that abounded with flax on the banks of the numerous estuaries that disembogue themselves into the Kaipara. The old chief, with a rueful visage, replied, that the term of his existence was very uncertain; that the tribes that inhabited the Waikato river had long since totally destroyed the people who inhabited the banks of Manukou and Kaipara; that the only safeguard he could have was in the Europeans, who would sell him ammunition to repel any invasion of his neighbours on his plantations, which would be more tenable as early as it was known he possessed implements of self-defence; that the attention of his own people would, in consequence, be otherwise

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HIS OFFERS.

employed in scraping flax and dragging out spars.

The confusion, exhibited on my first arrival among them, was caused by the fears they had of a descent which was daily expected from a tribe south of the Maungakahia river. He added, few places could produce such an abundance of flax, that grew in size to twice the length of his own stature; that in this staple his resources were immense, whole plains, for many miles in circuit, being entirely covered with the article, that occupied the soil to the margin of the rivers. He politely offered me the preference to trade with his tribe, as I was the first white man that had entered his village.

The women were ill, he said, to scrape flax for the white men; that the hearts of the natives were darkened (pori) for want of employment; and when the planting of the soil was finished, means were studied how to preserve the crop from spoliation.

After the old man had unburdened his numerous griefs, during which he was prompted by many of the old sages, who now and then thrust in a word to refresh the memory of the aged speaker, he led me to his fences, which were in an unfinished state. We were followed by the whole posse of little children the village

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TRANSACTIONS IN THE VILLAGE.

possessed, some picking off the furze that abounds in the plains of the country, and attaches itself to the dress of the traveller.

Several of these urchins would touch my arms, pull my coat, and then run away in all haste to some distance. I threw among them some trifles, that caused a universal scramble of both young and old. 1 visited the several natives, congregated together in groups opposite their respective houses around little fires. All felt gratified at the attention I shewed them. My lads had collected a party around each of them, where our exploits before and since leaving Hokianga were minutely detailed; not a circumstance being omitted which common delicacy would demand the consigning to oblivion. Similar to the usages of more polished society, these tales lost nothing of their marvels by the distance they had travelled; and I was reported, among many other miracles, to have performed that of producing fire from a dry chip solely by speaking to it. I had just joined the circle with Kaka as this feat was announced to them. The ladies were especially vociferous that I should perform it before them.

Unconscious of what effect might result by non-compliance, 1 accordingly consented, and, with the aid of a box of lucifer-matches, which

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SURPRISE OP THE VILLAGERS.

always accompanied me on a journey, satisfied the curiosity that had been excited. The simple operation had no sooner been performed, by drawing the match through the sand-paper, than it drew forth a shout of astonishment that brought all the natives around who were within hearing. I was obliged to repeat the operation several times, and none could conceive how the fire could come without the offering of a previous prayer to the divinity supposed to be confined within the box. I attempted to explain the natural causes which produced the fire; but I was not allowed to excuse myself from being a sorcerer, though the ladies confessed I was not a very wicked one.

The night having advanced, I spake to Puhi to ask from the chief a cabin to pass the night in, and to clear the same from the fleas which infest these domiciles in myriads. I was soon put in possession of one open only in the front, in which my bed was spread. I then joined the family circle of Kaka, who were stationed in front of his house; he very earnestly pressed me to become a relative, by accepting his only daughter as my wife, assuring me her rank and station in the tribe, made her an object of much contention among the chiefs, towards whom she had not yet declared any affection.

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A CHIEFTAIN'S DAUGHTER.

This young lady, who was niece to Parore of Waipoa, and principal chief in Kaipara, might have been in her fifteenth year. She was distinguished from the females of the village by her demeanour, which was dignified and graceful; her countenance was eminently beautiful, which was worthy, as to complexion and feature, of being put in competition with the beauteous women of Spain. Her delicacy of appearance was most prepossessing; and I imagined her disposition equally pleasing, from a succession of smiles hovering round her mouth, displaying teeth of unrivalled evenness and whiteness. Her charms were much enhanced by the modest and artless simplicity which evidently composed her usual manners. Koruhana was the name of this chieftess, whose extraordinary vivacity and shrewd remarks first drew my attention.

Her dress consisted of the kaitakas, made of silken flax, with deep, highly worked borders of the same material, dyed red and black; her profuse tresses were collected together in the native fashion, which is particularly pleasing; her ring-lets pending on either side of her face, in which the red and yellow honey flowerets of the flax-plant were interwoven.

On the parent chief rehearsing the praises the young lady so well merited, which he spoke

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HER MODEST RESERVE.

in a strain of affectionate compliment, she instantly covered her head and face with her native garment, a modest reserve peculiar to the females of the land; but the old gentleman had scarcely made the obliging offer of receiving me into his family by the ties of the native marriage, than she started up, and, with the swiftness of a young doe, ran to her house, situated some short distance. I should have excused myself from the honour of the alliance; but as Koruhana had left the circle, I felt there was no occasion to make a reply that might have given offence.

Dancing was now commenced by both sexes, and was kept up until nine o'clock, at which hour I had accustomed myself to retire to bed; previously to which, as usual, I wound up my watch. This piece of mechanism is called by the natives an Atua, or a divinity: few of my present auditors had seen one, the ticking of which struck them with much surprise, which they evinced by repeated ejaculations. It was now time to retire, which I accordingly did. Puhi had prepared the cabin as neatly as circumstances permitted.

Early in the morning I felt quite refreshed from the fatigue of the previous day, and, on opening my eyes, observed my cabin, which I

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SURPRISE OF THE VILLAGERS

stated was entirely open in front, crowded with the inhabitants of the village, anxious to see me arise. My throat, which was uncovered, and was less bronzed by the sun than my face or hands, called forth universal remarks. The works of a Phidias or Praxiteles could not have elicited from the most devoted lover of the art stronger terms of approbation. My readers will not, I hope, imagine I am indulging in silly vanity from the above expressions, made use of to express the surprise of the people which arose on beholding a complexion so dissimilar to what they had been accustomed to view.

I huddled on my clothes with all the delicacy I could use; which puzzled these people much, from the continual habit they have been accustomed to, since infancy, of seeing the males work in nudity. I hastily stole from my sleeping place, and desired Puhi to put my shaving utensils in order.

At this operation, which was new to every person present, fresh shouts of surprise were raised. The lather from the shaving-box was a source of wonder: it was compared to the oupapa, or snow, which some of them had seen to the southward; and as I had as quickly produced fire from a box as "snow" for shaving, they inquired, with characteristic simplicity,

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AT EUROPEAN UTENSILS.

whether I was in the habit of keeping thunder and lightning also by me.

A tin washing-dish was brought by Puhi, who performed his office of valet with looks of ineffable importance. It was a proud day for him. The people were delighted at the uncommon sight. The service of the comb was readily understood; this article, made from various woods, being an ancient ornament of the country, called hearu. The tooth-brush had never been seen before: this was an improvement that never could have been imagined. The looking-glass was handed round; and some of the ladies were so fascinated with what they saw reflected in this indispensable article of the toilette, that with much difficulty they could be induced to return it. Among the admirers of this luxurious piece of furniture was Koruhana, who was delighted with it. Willing to oblige her father, who had treated myself and suite so hospitably, I readily gave it to her at the old gentleman's request.

Kaka was highly gratified at the effect produced by the soap and towel, and requested me to allow him the use of the utensils. Puhi, who felt as if the duty of a prime minister had devolved on him, strutted about in consequence. I had no objection to please the old man;

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NATIVE CLEANSING.

curious, also, to observe the effects it would have on a face that had not been washed, unless by a passing shower of rain, for perhaps seventy years; but, like to Icarus of old, he had to smart for his experiment. The old man had rubbed the soap with all his might up his nostrils and within his eyes, without using water. The unfortunate chief, blinded by the pungent composition, stamped in agony. I desired Puhi to lead him in that state to the brink of the adjacent stream, where he had the cleanest ablution he had doubtless undergone since his birth.

Puhi dried and combed him; and when the old man returned, he looked twelve years younger, and a couple of shades lighter, for the immersion. My valet performed a similar operation on himself, as he piqued himself on being Europeanised.

Several of the female nobility, delighted at the miraculous change the soap had effected on Kaka, were determined, in despite of the pain, to try the experiment. Had Puhi paid attention to their requests, he would have found the situation no sinecure. As it was, he turned a deaf ear on his countrywomen. In vain they coaxed and fondled him, patting him on the face, until these artful girls hinted at the im-

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NATIVE ENVOY.

measurable improvement he had made over the generality of native young men by travelling with European society. This piece of flattery was continued as long as the soap lasted, when they laughed at him for the pains he had taken. The young females are generally very cleanly in their habits; in summer, often bathing during the day, in the sea or fresh-water creeks.

At this period a karere, or envoy, arrived from Mangakahia, to advise the old chief to hasten with the building of his fortification, as the tribe of whom both parties were apprehensive had given Terarau, chief of that district, intimation they would make a tawa, or war, against Kaka, while his pa was defenceless. This news stirred the activity of the minor chiefs, who, with the common people and their slaves, took their axes to the adjoining forest to cut fencing for the pa, to guard the village and property.

At this unpleasant news my people were much afflicted, and felt so dispirited, that they lamented, with bitter tears, having joined me. The present quarrel arose from a circumstance of frequent occurrence among the natives. A celebrated chief, of the tribe of Terarau, had been killed and devoured in a former battle by the enemy, living on the banks of the Waima; peace had been concluded between the parties by a

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INCANTATIONS.

number of Terarau's people, who, some time after, were determined to seek satisfaction: they fell on a few of the Waima natives unawares, killed some, and carried away the others as slaves. The Waima people, unable to cope with the Maungakahia warriors, determined it as best to fall on the allies of their invaders, who were weaker than themselves, and never gave them cause of offence.

After the panic, occasioned by the ill news of the envoy, had subsided, I requested Puhi to hasten breakfast, as the day was advancing; he informed me that both fire and water was tapued by the tohunga, or priest, who was busy at preparing an incantation near the Wai-tapu, situated among a grove of cabbage palm-trees without the fence. I went and joined the old magician, who was entirely stripped, as were five chiefs who were also officiating. They all eagerly asked me in a breath, if I had eaten of any thing; to their evident satisfaction, I answered in the negative. They then requested me to return to the village, as the rites they had to perform were forbidden to be seen by any person but the priesthood. I told them I would willingly comply with their request, but would not answer for the irritability of my appetite, which was not to be thwarted when any thing was to be got. This

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ON WAR.

induced them to allow me to remain, on the ground that I was a European. They then applied themselves to fixing in the ground some small sticks, about two feet each in length. I was now given to understand the ceremony was an oracular consultation whether my party, including myself, was to perform our journey in safety or otherwise. Each stick stood for one person; my representative was distinguished by a small piece of raupo flag being attached to the head of the stick. On the top of the stick was placed a kirikiri, or gravel-stone; these were to remain on the stick for an hour; and, if none of the stones fell on the earth, our journey was to be propitious, and whichever stone fell, death would ensue in some shape to the person represented.

Perceiving how matters were likely to turn, and that the objects of my journey would be frustrated, I told the priest and his assistants the stones might remain above or below, but I would not stay another day in the village; that their silly nonsense prevented me returning to them at a future period; but if they would throw down the stones, and throw away the sticks, I would spare them each a little tobacco. This tempting offer was serviceable to my cause; the stones were carefully collected and placed in the Wai-

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SUPERSTITION OF THE NATIVES.

tapu; the lads rushed in, attended by their friends, each with anxiety depicted on their countenances, to know the effects of the incantation, on which it was implicitly supposed their ultimate fate and that of our mission depended; every person had some question to ask, and all was demanded at the same moment with so much vociferation, as to confuse the ancient ariolist. At length the noise in some measure subsided, and the old Druid gave them each a satisfactory answer, that savoured of the tobacco I had promised. All was gaiety and hilarity -- every person present relying fully in the promises of the priest, who, from a long-continued practice of his profession, began to think that he was gifted with infallibility. Yet, notwithstanding the decided effects of tobacco in this instance, the superstition of the people held out in this village even against that much valued narcotic.

It was requisite I should purchase some paddles for propelling the canoes, which we were to procure in the Kaihu river; several were offered to me, for which I tendered a certain portion of tobacco. This was refused: double the quantity being demanded. I in turn objected. As I was inclining against the house I had slept in, I pulled a piece of flax from the roof, and with it fastened together the loose tobacco. Some

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NATIVE HOSPITALITY.

time after the men changed their minds who owned the paddles, and told me they were willing to take the payment I offered. I acceded; but, on their being told by a bystander that I had tied up the tobacco with flax that was on the house appropriated to my use, they refused to take it. To try them further, I offered double the quantity they had asked of me in the first instance; and, though I feel assured many of these people would have travelled fifty miles, burdened with a heavy load, for a single head of tobacco, not one of those present would accept a single piece, even as a gift, that had become thus prohibited by contact with the flax.

Previously to departing from this apparently honest people, I distributed presents to all the chiefs around. E'Kahu, the eldest wife of Kaka, put round my neck the tiki, or green jade breast ornament, which she had worn appended to her own. The chief loaded our boys with provisions, and entreated me as a favour to allow his daughter Koruhana, together with a female attendant, to accompany my escort to visit her relative, the chief of Maungakahia, especially as the village priest had predicted our safety.

Willing to oblige the old man, whose hospitality had been unbounded towards us, I consented, requesting that her brother, some few

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PREPARE TO DEPART.

years older than herself, might accompany us for her further protection, which was also arranged. The old chief then bade me open my hand, on which he stooped downwards, and, picking up a small portion of the soil, said, that he and his people would as willingly receive Europeans among them, and part with them the lands on which they lived, as give me the little earth he had put into my hand. He further bade me bear in mind what he had said.

My companions packed up their different loads; Puhi, as usual, carrying my wardrobe. After those trusty fellows had passed on in review before me, I saluted the old chief and his venerable councillors, including the priest.

Instead of making use of the usual salute with the chief lady E'Kahu, I substituted the native fashion of my own country, on the lady's lips. This feat astonished Kaka and the surrounding nobility; the priest admitted his incantations had been various, but this was altogether new to him. I told them it was the E'ongi no Uropi, or European salutation. The chief who already supposed he had passed the rubicon of civilised fashions, by being washed in the British mode, was determined to profit by whatever he saw: he therefore followed this example; and, considering the years of the old

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A FASHION IMPARTED.

chief, was not so bad an imitation. My readers may smile at this little incident; but this impressive token of affection was unknown until introduced, among other follies or fashions, by Europeans. The abominable tangi has been hitherto the substitute. All the court expressed their approbation of this new importation, and shouted aloud with merriment at the amusement it afforded them.

This noise brought out the ladies from their houses, where they were engaged making flax dresses, to discover the cause of the commotion, and I left them, while the gentlemen were in the act of explaining the reason, accompanied by the family of Kaka placed under my protection.

Many of the villagers followed us, exclaiming, "Ire atu ra," or "Go in health;quot; to which we shouted in return the compliment, "Eko-nara," or "Adieu! good bye." The dogs gave us a howl at parting. Two of these brutes could not be induced, by word or blow, to quit their mistress, Koruhana; they were therefore permitted to follow in our wake.