1838 - Polack, J. S. New Zealand [Vol.I] [Capper reprint, 1974] - Chapter VI

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CHAPTER VI.

SHORTLY after dinner some muskets were discharged, announcing the approach of Terarau, who then made his appearance. This chief was of a tall commanding figure, apparently about thirty-five years of age, with a countenance at once very expressive, features possessing European regularity, and a complexion of light bronze. He was entirely marked with the moko, or tattoo, and moved with the pride and dignity which a New Zealand chief delights in assuming.

He was accompanied by his brother (I be-

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A DIVAN.

lieve by adoption), whose countenance presented the most unpleasant and forbidding expression I had yet seen. The lower part of his countenance, including his underlip to his chin, was of a red-raw aspect, occasioned, it was said, by the chief when in infancy, and left to himself, falling on some burning embers.

Terarau led the way to his house, around which was assembled some venerable men, and a crowd of people of lesser note, anxious to listen to the purport of a visit from the white stranger.

Terarau sat himself at the head, and the group, in a circle, sat in profound silence. The elders placed themselves also on the ground, with their garments covering their mouths, and appeared occupied in serious meditation. I opened the conversation by saying, this was the first time I had been in their district, and that my coming, even personally unarmed -- a lone European, would tell best how much I confided in them; at a time, also, when the natives of the land feared to move a mile distant from each other; that I came not as a spy, deputed by their enemies, but as a friend, willing to sit down among them, and purchase the produce of the soil at reasonable rates; whereby, in a little time, they would be enabled to compete with their neighbours to the north and

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AN APPEAL.

east, in possessing articles of clothing to protect them from the wintry blasts, and implements of iron to pursue the labours of agriculture; that industry would put them in possession of ammunition to repel an invader; who, aware of their being in possession of such resources, would themselves, in all probability, turn their attention to similar pursuits, and would after a time perceive their interests promoted by peaceable conduct, and would war no more.

I then requested the use of a large canoe, to carry my party and self to the mouth of the Kaipara, to ascertain the depth of the river at the mouth of the harbour; and, should I be successful in finding a passage sufficiently deep to admit the entrance of ships into the river, they might be assured of being visited by them, similar to their neighbours on either side of the country, and that I was willing to pay the demand for the use of the canoe.

I awaited in silence an answer from Terarau, who sat listening with attention, the lower part of his face covered with his mat. The venerable portion of the company sat still, apparently unwilling to lose a word I had to say. They looked grave and dignified, contemplating what should be the subject of their speeches; they sighed after the clothing and ammunition; but they

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SPEECH OF A WARRIOR.

deplored the innovations Europeans would cause, in lieu of their ancient usages, to which they inclined themselves with singular pertinacity. One of these hoary ancients arose to address the group; his name was Motarou; he at first walked up and down the circle formed by the people, to aid the orators in giving effect to their arguments. After a short time employed in collecting his thoughts, he took short runs to and fro around the space allotted.

This veteran pretended to be highly indignant at my coming among them. The Europeans, he said, were overrunning the land, so that wars must in a short time cease; and what were the pleasures left to the people, when they should be restricted killing their enemies, and preserving their heads, as undoubted memorials of triumph? (pointing with his short hani to those placed on poles, that were opposite to us). War was his delight; it had been the sole plea-sures pursued by his ancestors (tepuna) and ought to be so of their children. And was it so? No! the white men had come among them, and the warrior was obliged to give way to women and slaves, whose utmost ability consisted in paddling canoes, pounding fern-root, or scraping flax (imitating those various employments). Yet, but a little while, and not an enemy would be

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IRASCIBLE NOTIONS.

found to combat with--they would all become women and flax-dressers. Who wanted firearms? For his part, he could not take aim, and they were useless to him, and therefore ought to be unserviceable to every body else; they did scarce any damage, in comparison to the weapons of the nation, handed down to them by the fathers of the land. He did not want to see a white face; he had heard to the northward (pointing in that direction), that a chief was made to feel ashamed in killing his own slave, and that the bodies were obliged to be eaten in secrecy and silence. He could scarcely give credit to so foul a report, and attributed it to the invention of persons who would impose on the natural easiness of his disposition. It could not, should not be! No! he would sooner eat all the white men himself, than be reduced to a state so truly abject. (Here he imitated the action of gnawing his right arm.)

This sally created a general laugh, in which I joined, and which heartily tickled the irascible veteran himself, who continued: No; he would live to spite the white men, and break his fast on a fresh slave every morning. The very Atuas of the country were arrayed against the new comers (instancing our adventures in connexion with Tameteri). And where did the

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ARGUMENTS OF A POLYGAMIST.

party intend going? Down the Kaipara river, every spot of which was sacred, for a race of chiefs who would never allow us to land on those shores, without shewing their resentment in a signal manner. For his part, no canoe should leave Matakoki Wangare (the name of the village), nor should any white man again visit them. "They will, perhaps," he added, "persuade us not to punish the tribes of Waima, who have destroyed our Wai-tapus, dug up our provisions, and stolen the property of our people. Never! let the flax grow, and our forests stand; if we want clothing, we have our women to make them--(he had seven wives, not including handmaids); if food be our object, we have slaves to plant for us; and of them we shall never be deficient, as long as our enemies exist. No canoe shall leave this village; and let the white man return to his residence. The tribes among whom he has taken up his abode may be our friends now; but have they not been our enemies? (Here he recounted a series of ancient feuds, that had existed in the times of his progenitors). No! let the white man go. Who sent for him? He came from beyond sea to us--he has seen us. What does he further want? Let him go back." This old gentleman had not formed any

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A PRIMITIVE PARLIAMENT.

acquaintance with, or even heard of, the "schoolmaster abroad;" his action was as changeable and varying as the actual disposition of the warrior; he at times danced with great agility, his hoary beard shaking in the wind. On describing the feuds of his own tribes and those of my party, he quivered with rage, and stamped with ferocious vehemence, as every fresh instance darted across his brain. He then sat down amid murmurs of applause.

I was annoyed to perceive the influence his harangue had perceptibly made upon the feelings of these savage lords and commons. Another old warrior harangued the assembly; but, luckily for us, he had a violent toothache, which soon obliged him to sit down. This last delivered his short speech, in which he sided with Motarou, in tones of vehement declamation, shaking his head and shoulders with the agility displayed by those furniture-ornaments ycleped mandarins; and when he recounted the injury his tribe and forefathers had received from the Waima tribes, he brandished his spear with so wild and menacing an air, that he really appeared transported beyond himself; he tortured his face into hideous grimaces, frightful to behold; his eyes almost started from his head, glaring with unusual fierceness. I felt

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ORATORICAL DISPLAYS

sensibly relieved when he reseated himself. The venerable sages of the assembly were apparently satisfied with the style in which these worthies had delivered their speeches, which coincided with their own ideas on the subject.

Rapu, a chief of my party, then arose, and replied to the surly orators in a manner at once firm, conciliating, and pleasing.

He strongly insisted on the services the Europeans had rendered the natives by a thousand acts, which could only be appreciated by the tribes that resided around them. It was true, those acts did not speak in a glaring manner, yet they were not the less felt, (instancing several inventions that had been introduced, tending to save time and manual labour, unknown to the previous generation, especially the use of the chisel, adze, the serviceable axe and tomahawk, which had superseded the ancient stone instruments, subjected continually to be broken.) These facts were answered by a murmur from the audience, expressive that they were invaluable. Rapu then instanced the introduction of the pig, corn, and potatoes, and other esteemed edibles presented to the country by the white men. He also insisted on their bravery, who had established themselves among the natives; whom war-cries could not frighten, nor fury turn, from the tenour

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OF THE NATIVES.

of their constant conduct. The first speaker had spoken disparagingly of the present youth of the country; he was sorry to have heard it, as he, for one, though unwilling to join in an unjust war, yet, to the enemies of his own immediate tribe, and those of his relations and friends (bowing to the assembly), his arm would never be drawn back. He concluded, by requesting from Motarou the use of his large canoe, for which he would not only receive a handsome payment from the white man, who had trusted to their hospitality, but would add to the inducements of their finally settling among them, whereby they would derive as much benefit as the Hokianga tribes had gained.

Rapu made use of ambulatory movements, similar to those of the previous speakers, and enforced his arguments by action and gesture, as is invariably the rule of New Zealand orators.

A chief of commanding aspect, named Paikia, now arose, and, gently running round the arena, spoke for some time in favour of our cause, which entirely inclined the balance in our favour. Several other chiefs addressed the meeting, whose speeches similarly inclined towards us; and it was agreed that a canoe, lying at a place called Kaipara, dignified with a high-sounding name, formerly borne by a deceased

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INSTABILITY OF FRIENDSHIP.

warrior, should be lent to us, for the amount of a blanket and some tobacco, for which I instantly wrote a check (pukapuka), on the spot, payable in Hokianga.

My antagonist, Motarou, came up to salute me by pressing noses, which 1 could not refuse; but his face was bedaubed with kokowai and shark's oil, which was transferred to my visage. The effect of this abrasion gave much amusement to the natives, who requested me to allow it to remain some time longer.

I gave the veteran warrior some tobacco, which made him caper with delight; he patted my face with a pair of hands that had been tapued from the use of water for many months previous; and, finally, he was now more in favour of the white men settling at Kaipara, than he had formerly declared himself against the motion: so infantine are the minds of these people, that, had I refused the preferred salute, he would have been my declared enemy.

Another instance of the mutability of the native mind occurred during this same afternoon. An inferior chief had put his hands in my coat pocket without my perceiving it, and drew forth my snuff-box, the contents of which I was habituated to at that period. An exclamation of surprise from the bystanders caused me to look

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MUTABILITY OF THE NATIVES.

round, and, seeing the cause, I hastily snatched it from the man, giving him, at the same moment, a smart push, that sent him reeling backwards; he no sooner recovered his position, than he approached me with a face swollen with rage, but I laughed at him, which had the effect of instantly turning his anger, his friends observing it was hangereka no te pakeha, or a jest of the white man, and it was accordingly received as such: had I shewn a frown, a serious quarrel would have ensued, by which my existence might probably have been endangered.

These little traits of the instability of the friendship of these people are of continual occurrence, though possessing unbounded affection towards each other and their visitors, when nothing displeases them.

I spent the twilight that remained in viewing the plantations, which were laid out in the neatest order. Few farms in civilised countries could be planted with greater attention to neatness. The soil was of the richest quality; and the different edibles flourished with extraordinary vigour. The potatoes and kumeras were planted in rows of small hills, laid out with strict regularity; between those hills the large broad lotus leaf of the farinaceous tarro appeared; large broad patches of the culmiferous Indian corn

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AMUSEMENTS IN A VILLAGE.

grew in neat order to the right of us; and the herbaceous land was cleared of weeds, piled above the walls of stone that had been collected from the grounds, which I calculated occupied about twenty acres in extent. Among the vegetables deposited in the soil, in addition to the above-mentioned, were cabbages, shallots, garlick, turnips, and the kaipakeha, a species of yam, but infinitely superior to that ingustable vegetable, which it resembles in size and general appearance only.

By the time we returned to the village, night had thrown her dark mantle around, and I repaired to the house of Terarau. Flambeaux were lighted, large fires kindled, and provisions served up, this being the hour of the native supper. I felt hungry and fatigued, and partook of the hospitality of my host with great satisfaction; he had ordered a large hog to be killed for the occasion.

After supper, the haka commenced, danced by at least three hundred and fifty performers, whose exact uniformity of motion with hands and feet produced a pleasing effect. A variety of dances succeeded the haka. The spears were nourished as usual, but none of the confusion and noise of the dance, with which we were received in the morning, was now used; the chanting

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AMUSEMENTS IN A VILLAGE.

was equally subdued, and far from inharmonious, though inexpressibly wild; the chorus, in which so many performers joined during this still night, might be heard some miles distant.

After the hakas, the party separated into different groups, each of which I visited in turn to ensure their good feeling towards me; as the veriest trifles, I well knew, might turn the scale against me. On my approach they formed themselves into circles around me, each anxious to touch and see the white man. They struck up effusions, composed extempore on the occasion of my visit; and, as my party had given a copious account of my history and adventures, every minute action I had performed was rehearsed in chants, in which those composing the circles joined; nor were certain items omitted, which the delicate muse of a more refined society would have blushed to sing.

In these native lays, I figured under the un-classical appellation of waiwairoa, or long-legs; not that I am distinguished by any remarkable amplitude in my nether formation, but it is a native custom to give a distinctive cognomen to each other: nor do they omit bestowing on Europeans a similar patronymic.

My comrades omitted nothing which their inventive geniuses could furnish that would

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ACCESSION OF RANK.

redound to my honour, which they naturally imagined would shed a lustre on themselves; and, having once casually mentioned to them that my place of birth was the British metropolis, which my people represented as the Kainga no Kingi Ordi, or Village of King George, my rank immediately rose full five hundred per cent; as these simple people imagined, as with them-selves, that tribes only reside together related by blood and marriage.

It was immediately granted that my veins were filled with royal blood, and it was presumed, at least, I was a winounga, or cousin, to the great potentate who then swayed the sceptre of the British empire. I cannot say this raised my character in the estimation of these people. A white man to them was every thing; and, provided he made presents and was inclined to trade with them, it gave them but little concern whether their visitor was an emperor or a tinker.

A few musicians among these light-hearted groups entertained themselves with the native flutes, made generally of the thigh-bone of some poor wretch who had been devoured by these anthropophagi. These bones, or iwi tangata, were carved at the lateral ends, and played upon similar to the European instrument. The sounds are annoyingly inharmonious.

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FILTHY HABITS.

After some time spent among them, I left the groups engaged in the game of ti and the amusement of drafts, which my party introduced, having made themselves acquainted with the game by residing among Europeans.

I returned to the house of Terarau, and took my place under his veranda. The filthy habits of these people were soon apparent; and I felt no little annoyance at being surrounded by them, since they freely imparted to me some of the disgusting vermin that abundantly filled their garments. These licentious crawlers gave me much trouble; but it was not etiquette to move away from the seat of honour that had been cleared for me between the superior chiefs and levites of the place, who were as amply supplied with these "creeping things" as the inferior canaille.

I inquired of the chief the cause of the present war in which he was engaged. He replied, that the enemy had set fire to some land for the purpose of burning off the brush and fern preparatory to planting, as is invariably the custom of the people; that, unfortunately, a change of wind took place, which caused the fire to turn in a contrary direction, whereby a wai-tapu had been destroyed, and every thing within it had fallen a prey to the flames. It was admitted that the fire was purely accidental, but the laws of the

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186 A WARM BIRTH.

New Zealanders must be enforced; and, continued the chief, pointing to the decapitated heads, "yonder is part payment."

The chief and his intimates entered the house, into which I also crept, with the labent movement of a snake, on all fours. The space within side might have been about eight feet by twelve, with a temperature not unlike a baker's oven; a fierce fire burnt in the centre, and there was sufficient smoke to have choked any person of less accommodating habits than I possessed. I was only blinded by it; which misfortune was in some measure less to be lamented, as it prevented me from seeing the kutus' that filled the indelicate mats of my friends.

The gentlemen who had encircled themselves round the hut felt the effects of the heat in some degree, as they simultaneously doffed the only garment they possessed, and lay perfectly naked. I complained of the heat, when it was observed, that if I followed the maniere degage of the company, I should find the hut very comfortable.

Without attending to the suggestion, I kept my post for a half hour longer, and then jerked my body out of the small hole that served as an apology for a door, window, chimney, &c., and was scarcely large enough for a respectably sized mastiff to have put his head through. I bade

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A HAPPY VALLEY.

adieu to the company for the night, and betook myself to my solitary pillow.

The night was still and beautiful, such as is often presented to the traveller in this land: the moon also added her light, to aid the beautiful effect of the natural scenery.

Maungakahia is situated in a pleasant valley, fruitful in the extreme, with a depth of black, hederaceous soil, in some places perhaps twenty feet deep. The river of the same name flows past this village--of some depth, and many feet in breadth; the surrounding lands are high, covered with indigenous vegetation; and large patches of soil, furnished with flax, or forest, are continually met with, producing every description of tree that is valuable in the island.

Small creeks, interfluing the high banks of mud, were covered with juncous productions. The mangrove flourishes in profusion; the pericardium of its seed spreads over the banks. The omniform character of many of the trees, shrubs, &c., give a pleasing variety to the scenery of these woods.

Early in the morning, I was awakened by the natives running about in great confusion, some with muskets, and cartridge-boxes belted round their waists, others with spears and paddles, fighting in flying groups with each other; dur-

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MATRIMONIAL CEREMONIES.

ing which several severe blows were given. I soon learned this was a preparative to the ceremony of marriage, in which two parties contested for the lady, who was some time after pointed out to me. I could not applaud the taste of either combatant; this animated bone of contention having scarce a pound of flesh on her body.

The skirmish lasted about half an hour, but I had not the curiosity to rise to trouble myself as to whose share this "bonne femme" had fallen. An entertainment, or hakari, was afterwards given by the parents of either party, in honour of the hymenean rites, during which some fes-cennine verses were chanted by the partakers of the feast, that savoured of the lax strains the Calliope of New Zealand is wont to indulge herself in. Some of these lyrics afforded much amusement; the old nobles fought again the amorous fields, wherein they had been hailed as victors; one venerable senator was especially obstreperous, in recounting his pathian glories: he squinted with an obloquy of vision almost approaching to caricature.

After these satyrs had filled themselves with a voracity that could no further go, I paid a visit to the givers of the feast, a large share of which had been kindly placed before me.

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ANTIPODAL MARRIAGE ACTS.

The two rivals sat in the same circle, apparently friends. These native Tarquins shewed marks of the affray, but all was now good humour. I presented a pipe and some tobacco to the unsuccessful lover, and the fortunate bridegroom added a few fish-hooks, made of bone and mother-of-pearl shell; at which he was delighted, and owned he had made a fair exchange.

To the bride I presented a jew's-harp, which enabled her to dry her tears, and give a different tone to her hitherto sorrowful expressions. Marriages are seldom formed in the country, without both the lovers receiving a liberal beating; and the solemnisation would be accounted as imperfect, if this indispensable operation were forgotten.

I had the packages removed, and, accompanied by several of the chiefs and people, set out on our way to Kaipara, where the large canoe was stationed, in exchange for the three tewais'. Our direct and nearest road would have been to pass a beach that lay before us, but that was strictly tapued; a party being engaged making a kupenga, or seine; on which account the waters and the land in the immediate neighbourhood were also under the law of the priesthood. I was given to understand that a canoe

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SUPERSTITIOUS OBSERVANCES.

could have been obtained at Matakoki wangare, but we should not have been allowed to pass this portion of the river.

Fearful of having a much longer walk than I required, I promised Terarau, if he would let me have one of the canoes opposite that settlement, it should be paddled as close to the offshore as practicable; but I could not obtain my wish, the chief observing, he could not answer for the conduct of his people, if I set at nought their customs and usages. As I entertained no such intention, we pursued our route, discoursing with the chiefs as to the expense of flax and timber in their district.

Terarau pointed out to me several pieces of forest land and plain, whose eligibility, he said, would be worthy of my purchasing. I excused myself from so doing at the time, but they have since become the property of Europeans.

The observations of this chief were extremely shrewd; among an infinity of questions, he required to know the why and wherefore of every thing. He inquired how it happened that Europeans left a superior country for a savage land, and, in despite of the natives, spread so fast over the face of the country; also as to the perceptible decrease of the aboriginal population. I gave him satisfactory answers to all his

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ARRIVE AT KAIPARA.

inquiries; and as to the latter, observed, that the white people in New Zealand avoided fighting battles; that the many native superstitions causing death never troubled the new comers; and such occurrences as would paralyse a native with silly fears, caused only laughter among the white men. I gently hinted at polygamy, for Terarau had his harem pretty well stocked, adding, that one wife was found to be fully as much as a European could well manage; at which this heartless Turk laughed heartily at my apparent simplicity, as a piece of unpardonable barbarism.

Kaipara was not so very far distant, and we soon arrived there. The path to the beach led through an enchanting valley; on each side of which the shrubbery was most exuberant. The canoe appointed to convey our party was seventy-two feet in length. The top sides were joined to the body, by a long narrow piece of wood lashed by scraped flax, passing through the holes which were bored in the upper and lower plank; between the lashings were inserted feathers, that gave a handsome appearance. The pitou, or head, and ruppa, or stern-post, were carved in the usual handsome style; the whole was painted with kokowai, and ornamented with garlands, hanging pendant from head and stern.

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DEPART FROM KAIPARA.

In the inside was a raised floor of wicker-work, six feet in breadth. The garlands were formed of feathers.

The packages were soon placed in the canoe together with two native sails of a triangular shape, made of the raupo. The tackling was a plaiting of common flax.

When all my party had entered the canoe, several young chiefs requested me to allow them to join us, which I readily assented to; as, from the large size of the canoe, my party would have been insufficient to propel the vessel. Koruhana, with her brother and slave, also wished to join us, as her father would be anxious for her return. I was not unmindful of the old man's hospitality, and was gratified in being enabled to shew proofs of it.

On calling forth the muster-roll, which duty devolved on Puhi, who enacted his part with the demure gravity of a gentleman-usher, we found our party amounted to forty persons. Terarau, Paikia, and other friends, supplied us with provisions.

Our sails were hoisted with a fair breeze, and the ebb-tide in our favour; and we took our departure amid discharges of artillery, blowing of conches, adieus from the ladies, a haka from the gentlemen, and loud prayers from the priest-

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SAIL DOWN THE WAIROA.

hood: the children were not voiceless, who, together with the dogs, barked and yelled an adio in chorus. We took in four passengers of the latter fraternity, besides Koruhana's two faithful brutes, who kept aloof from the last intruders.

We sped gaily before a strong breeze, which did not last a very long time, and it soon fell calm; this was perhaps in our favour, as the windings in the river brought the wind as often for as against us.

The rays of the burning sun caused the heat to be intense; an awning, made by a blanket, was therefore raised, to protect me from the chance of a coup-de-soleil.

This river was literally crowded with wild ducks, whose tameness enabled us to catch several, principally killing them with our paddles. Wild pigeons flew about in great numbers, as also several parrots, parroquets, hawks, and singing birds. The banks of the river were covered by forests, filled with splendid timber of magnificent height and foliage; and where the forest patches ended, the flax supplied its place on the rourou, or plains.

We entered the Wairoa river (or long water), an appellation it well merits, and landed at a desolate village called Warepohuhi. There

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A SACRED ENCAMPMENT.

were only two fathoms water off this decayed settlement.

To map these rivers would take equal time and patience, as their serpentine courses wind round the compass. Before entering the branch that led to the Kaipara river, we had paddled, including the Kaihu, &c., one hundred and thirty miles; the stream principally flows on a line with the west coast. Our present quarters were pleasant enough; the village that had been, was covered with ruins of dilapidated huts, the rotten rafters of which were strewed about the ground, and would have answered for fuel: but all these things were tapued.

When the Tui bird uttered one of his musically clear notes, every one of my natives trembled with alarm. The hooting of the owl was regarded as ominous; the very dogs crouched together, evidently with an uncomfortable feeling; and a rotten branch falling from a tree, caused universal trepidation. Tired with these superstitious fears, and desirous of putting an end to them, I requested they would dance a haka. This was regarded with mute horror; doubtless, had a native made the request, he would have been excommunicated by the first priest that could have plucked something from him. It was now approaching towards evening;

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A PROSPECT OF FASTING.

the sun had already set, and I inquired of Puhi if the supper was in progress; he answered me, with a torvous countenance, that no cooking could be allowed in a tapued place.

This was sufficient; I felt determined not to be starved for all the gods in the country, and ordered all to take to the canoe, which was lying high and dry on the beach, the tide having ebbed to some distance; none were willing to move; on which I desired the person nearest to me to procure some rollers, to place under the canoe, fetching a few myself. The tone with which I issued the command, shewed I was not to be trifled with; I was obeyed, and in a few minutes we were once more afloat, in search of an encampment for the night.

It was proposed by Tamaroa, to return to a small glade we had passed, about a mile distant astern; but I was in no humour to go backward at any time, still less at the present moment. We continued our course, and about two miles further we landed on a small beach composed of a slimy mud and pebbles. Sheds were soon erected of the branches of the Nikou palm, and also a bed of the same leaves. The oven was soon prepared, the ducks well cleaned and spitted, a stick being thrust through the body, and forced in the ground by the side of a large fire:

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AURORA AUSTRALIS.

the provisions tasted excellent, and all agreed that the exchange I had caused to be made of our situation for the night was the best.

As we had met with some difficulty in pushing off our canoe from the last place we had stopped at, I had the vessel anchored off by filling a basket with heavy stones, attached to a native warp made of flax. The night was spent in dancing by torchlight, and in telling tales relating to this place of the metempsychosis of departed chiefs.

This evening I perceived a luminous appearance in the heavens, which, some time after I first observed it, spread in a splendid manner around the heavens. This was an Aurora Australis, which the natives attributed to the operations of their Atuas, burning their grounds previously to planting the uwhi, or winter potato. The Aurora continued nearly an hour in duration, in which time it shot forth several brilliant corruscations of light.

Early the next morning I arose, but none of the natives were in a humour to follow my example, as it is contrary to custom for these people to be in a hurry when most needed. These thoughtless fellows, as long as the provisions lasted, were perfectly satisfied to remain where they were comfortably domiciled. For

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LEAVE TAKOPURU.

this vexation there was scarcely a remedy. With difficulty I called them together, and said with decision I would leave the place as early as the tide ebbed; if they wanted breakfast, I bade them hasten about its completion, for I would not stay for one of them. On this they bestirred themselves, and provisions were soon served up.

At the early ebb we left this beach, which was called Takopuru. The weather was very beautiful, but the wind scant for us. The sea-breeze set in about ten o'clock, which retarded our progress, as it rendered the labour of paddling still greater. The canoe made but little way. We turned towards the shore and put into a small gravelly beach, white with bleached cockleshells, where we landed. Near to this beach was a long bank of mud and sand, on the centre of which was a small hill; the name was Hiataki Island, or Motu. On the opposite shore the hills were high, but one in particular had a singular appearance. It rose up in the shape of a cone, its bosom forming a deep dell, covered with bush and stunted trees. This mountain, which towered above the hills around, bore north distant five miles, the depth of water opposite was five fathoms, with a muddy bottom and shells.

As the wind now blew from the S.S.W., I had the dinner prepared, and sheds erected to

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SUCCESSFUL IN PROCURING EATABLES.

protect us from the sun, whose glowing heat was intense. Wata and Rapu repaired to the canoe, which was anchored off, and commenced fishing; Tamaroa, and our jester, Parre, took their ammunition, and scoured the bush for wild pigeons, and I despatched two others in search of the delicious cabbage palm and korou; a few went in search of eels; those that remained procured firewood, and ignited a fire for the oven. Some were employed scraping vegetables, such as potatoes and kumeras, the natives never cooking these edibles without previous paring, regarding them as kaua, or bitter. Our foragers returned within an hour; the fishermen had been successful, producing nearly one hundred lbs. of snapper fish, and the kawai, a species of colourless salmon. A string of large eels were also brought in: these latter were spitted before the fire. The fowlers had also been successful, and had made sad havoc among the pigeons and parrots.

The sportsmen recounted over again their tales of yore in these very localities, and all the party were in good humour. After the repast Tamaroa sat himself beside me, and related the history of the place. The conical mountain was called Tokatoka,

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MOUNTAIN OF TOKATOKA.

The cone is called the Matua wahine, or mother of the surrounding land; a bluff rocky hill adjoining is the Matua tane, or father; a small hillock on the opposite side of the cone, is said to be enceinte, and likely to produce a "something" in time. This tradition was descriptive of a volcano, but of ancient date, as the fires are not only extinct, but no lava is now visible.

This place would be an invaluable spot as a settlement for Europeans. It is situated at the head of navigation, and will be the seat of the principal town in this part of the country. The splendid land in the vicinity of the Wairoa river will be a favourite resort of the future colonist. This place is but a trifling distance from the

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RIVER KAIPARA.

river Thames, and a glance on the chart will be sufficient to shew its advantages. It is not above a few hours' walk from the confluence of rivers that lead to either coast of the island. The Wairoa is from eighty to one hundred miles from the mouth of the Kaipara. The land on the north side of the latter river is very inferior, rising in abrupt hills, covered with high ferns, or a hard clayey stratum, over sandstone. Large plains are covered with the same useless herbage on hard cold ground, for some miles in extent, with a poor thin covering of sandy soil, giving but little nourishment to the indigenous vegetation, which is useless. Large swamps extend to a great distance; the juncous produce is made use of in building native houses.

The wind abating in the afternoon, we again took to the canoe. At sunset we landed at Tikanai. Here we found, for the first time, a scarcity of fresh water. We were now on the Kaipara river, which was brackish at this distance, some sixty miles from the head.

On the ensuing morning, after the flood had finished making, we embarked in our craft, and paddled at the rate of six miles an hour. We passed a long mud bank, said to be crowded with eels. The fish, about these parts, leaped in shoals: several jumped into our canoe. The

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ARRIVE AT TE TAOHARA.

side of the river was barren in the extreme; headlands denuded of vegetation, and shingle beaches, with swamps extending far inland, closed the sterile scene.

On the east side, the country rose in high hills, with a chain of mountains in the distance, called Hukateri. We kept close to the western shore, which runs even with the coast, and passed a large bight formed by two headlands, called Ko-murrima; between this place and Titupu, a long sand-spit extended a mile from the shore.

We now encountered a heavy swell and discoloured water; another annoying sand-spit, extending some distance from the sandy shore, increased the length of our voyage.

These banks stretch out some distance under water, our canoe grounding when we were apparently a great distance from them. At sunset we put into Te Taohara. This spot was very barren; the sand-stone had long since mouldered away into loose sand that flew about in every direction. This gave the place a barren and desolate appearance. The north-west head of the river was about three miles distant. The sandy soil produced a long spear-grass, and a trifle of stunted vegetation. The valley of Te-Taohara was strictly tapued. Here was fought the last battle with the unfortunate tribes of this

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VILLAGE OF THE DEAD.

river, the remnant that was saved being taken for slaves. The groves that formed the Wai-tapu, for the bones of the miserable slain, lay in front of us as we landed. On this beach the vanquished were devoured.

On my advancing near the Wai-tapu, the natives, in a piteous tone, begged me not to go near, as the spirits (wairua) of the place would kill them, or at least make them ill, for having brought a white man to this village of the dead. I moved away from the place, which from its solitary and dreary aspect, together with the details given me of the former unhappy people, and the treacherous manner in which they were murdered, gave me a great dislike to the spot. The clear notes of the little korimaku bird, hopping among the branches of the Wai-tapu, struck on my ear like a primitive requiem to the departed, of whom not a descendant existed in the broad lands of their birth containing the treasured cemeteries of their ancestors.

My natives had now discovered a suitable spot for pitching our camp. I sat myself on the sand, reflecting on the beautiful world a bountiful Father of Mercy had placed us in, and yet how wayward are our actions! Alas! if He was as implacable to us as we are to each other, how hapless would be our lot! What scourge

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RUINED VILLAGES.

can equal the warfare these people are continually waging against each other, accompanied by the horrid rites of cannibalism !

On the banks of this river we had met with several villages deserted, and not a living soul to own an interest in the place. A few mouldering raouis, notatory of a former people, lost to existence, alone remained.

By the lurid appearance of the sunset, and other indications to the westward, we perceived a heavy storm would arise before the ensuing morning.

The natives procured a quantity of nikau leaves for our separate houses, to make them water-proof; an extra quantity of provisions was also cooked; an embankment was raised around the houses, and a fosse to let the rain drain off. Every thing, indeed, was arranged to give solidity to our humble tenements against the approaching gale.

Several of the people took their lines, and contrived to procure sundry large snappers, nearly two hundred lbs. weight of fish. At night the wind blew strongly from the south-west in tremendous gusts, that would have soon scattered our houses and selves before it, but we were sheltered from that quarter by high sandhills.

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A SAND STORM.

The storm raged with the utmost fury during the night. Rain fell in torrents; the thunder, following fierce flashes of lightning, that cast a pale quivering light on every object around, brake in heavy peals, reverberating among the hills; while the raging sea, impelled by the gale, drove into the outer valley in heavy rollers, bursting with stunning violence on the surrounding shores.

Unable, from the stormy violence of the contending elements, to compose myself to rest, I called to Tamaroa and Rapu, who came to me. They were unable to take repose. They gave me an account of the battle that had taken place about 1826 in this place. It appeared that an alliance had been formed between the Napui chiefs, under E'Ongi, of the Bay of Islands, their friends of the North Cape, and Hokianga. These tribes then proceeded against the people of Kaipara, who acted on the defensive, and kept within their fortifications. Repeated assaults were made on the pa by the former, but proved unsuccessful.

This stronghold was invincible to the northern natives, whose repeated attacks proved fruitless. They despatched a karere, or messenger, to request a cessation of hostilities; and, after much native diplomacy, it was ultimately

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AN "UNTOWARD EVENT."

agreed that a principal chief of the Hokianga tribe should wed the daughter of the principal chief of the Kaipara people.

A mutual exchange of visits followed, the fortifications were thrown open by the besieged to their late invaders, feasts were given, and all the tribes on either side were apparently delighted at the discontinuance of hostilities.

The bride was wooed, won, and the nuptials consummated. This calm was succeeded by a fearful tempest. On the second day after the marriage, a preconcerted signal was given by the allied tribes, and an indiscriminate massacre of the inhabitants of the place ensued; neither sex or age was spared, except such as were reserved as slaves to these treacherous conquerors. During the carnage, an "untoward event" occurred to one of the head chiefs of the Bay of Islands, uncle to the since celebrated Titore, 1 who also took part in this butchery.

This relative, "on pilfering thoughts intent," was busily engaged searching the deserted houses for plunder, when he espied a female chief, in frantic grief, near one of the huts; he instantly pounced upon her as his slave; with many threats, he commanded her to tell him where

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A BITER BIT.

her valuables were placed; without speaking, she pointed to the hut, whose door-place, for the sake of warmth, was made so diminutive as just to admit a person crawling on his knees.

The chief entered, and found some mats, fish-hooks, and lines, and other little native valuables, and threw them outside. Unfortunately for this hero, he had got in the house, and had now to get out in the same prostrate manner. In order to eject himself the easier, he also threw outside with his captures the tomahawk which had done him service during the battle. He had just protruded his head and shoulders, when the woman seized the deadly weapon, and in a few blows severed his head from the worthless body.

Numerous minor occurrences of a similar nature, that took place during the battle, were related to me by Tamaroa, who, with many others of our party, were present, actively engaged in the fight on the side of the allies.

The next morning the storm continued to rage with similar violence to the night previous, and we were fortunate in having cooked sufficient provisions, as no fire could have burned outside the houses. We found it impossible to move beyond our enclosure, around which the drift-sand had risen three feet. Towards noon

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VISIT THE HEADS.

the weather cleared up; the sea was yet boisterous, but the heavy rain had caused it to subside much.

On the opposite shore, distant fifteen miles, were two fine rivers, called Otamatia, and Oruauhorro, their estuaries about a mile distant from each other.

I much wished to visit those rivers, which were described to me as abounding with pine-trees, in thickly wooded forests, and swamps covered with the flax plant. These rivers are said to be about thirty miles each in length; but no promises could induce the natives to paddle the canoe over. The principal fears they entertained were, that the Waikato tribes, or those of the river Thames, were always in the adjoining woods in scattered parties, seeking whom they may devour; also, a very small remnant of the former owners of the country still existed, wandering about the forests, in continual fear of surprise, where they once had possessed unlimited sway and control. Both rivers are described as forming excellent harbours for shipping, possessing deep water, and firm-holding ground for anchorage.

I visited the north head of the river with a number of the natives; our route was pursued with difficulty, sinking deep into the sand at

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MOUTH OF THE RIVER.

every step. We ascended the sand-hills with great difficulty. From this point we distinguished the deep water of three channels, of apparently sufficient depth for a vessel of four hundred tons. The breakers were dashing on several sandbars in an awful manner, about three miles from the land. The late westerly gale caused the fearful commotion of the rolling waves to bound on these sea sand-spits, dashing the surf to an unusual height. No vessel, of any size or shape, could at this time have entered the Kaipara; instant shipwreck, into a thousand pieces, would have been the result. Sandbanks appeared in every direction within the harbour's mouth.

I mapped as much of the coast and river as I was enabled to do, and made several sketches about the heads of the river, but with great difficulty, the drift-sand beating against my face, and causing the most painful sensations, notwithstanding Tamaroa and Puhi stood to screen me as much as they were able. My ears, nose, eyes, and mouth, were so filled with it, that I was obliged to desist; my dress also was entirely covered with arenose particles.

Early next morning the canoe was launched, and we made preparations for departing for the mouth of the river, to note the sandbars from

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EMPLOYED SOUNDING.

Rangatira, the south-west head of the river. None of the natives of Terarou would accompany me, and had previously hidden themselves in the bush. To search for them was in vain; I therefore departed with my own people, who had originally joined me at Kaihu.

We had a light air from the south-west at 5 A.M. I sounded as far as we went, marking down with care the various bearings that presented themselves as most requisite for the future mariner in this river. I had fortunately just time to accomplish the principal object of my visit, when the sea-breeze from the south-west blew into the harbour with much force, every minute increasing in strength. We were obliged to put back hastily. I directed the canoe to be paddled as close to the shore as possible.

We had expended five hours thus early, and 1 felt inclined to take some refreshment. I accordingly drew a biscuit from my pocket, and a roasted pigeon from a paper, and seated myself, as comfortably as I was well able to do, on the raised floor of the canoe. I was unconscious I was doing wrong; but the vessel receiving some violent concussions from the waves, I raised my head to perceive the cause, when I found the canoe had been paddled far from the shore, and steered the contrary way I had ordered.

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PURSUE OUR ROUTE.

quickly desired them to paddle the vessel close in shore, as I felt no inclination for a watery grave; but they refused to do so. I now learned the reason of this strange conduct, which was caused by my having eaten in the canoe near the shore, which was tapued for the dead who had been devoured there. In vain I told them, a white man had nothing to do with a water-god; they told me I might have, nevertheless. I was therefore obliged to desist from eating, or have the certainty of being capsized in the element of the divinity, as an expiatory sacrifice.

On returning to Te Taohara, I had every thing instantly placed in the canoe, determined they should suffer for want of food, as they had piously made me. Many of the gentlemen began to demur at this "general order;" but I was in no humour to be thwarted, and, with the strangers who now thought proper to join us, departed. After we had hoisted sail and proceeded some distance, we put into a place called Manghutara; here we landed and took breakfast. On the opposite shore, the hills of Hukateri appeared well clad with verdure and forest. We soon left this place, and sailed at a rapid pace northerly. At ten o'clock at night, we sighted the conical mountain of Tokatoka.

The weather was very cold and rainy, and

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HOMEWARD BOUND.

the night too dark to distinguish objects a few yards distant. At 5 A.M., we again made the shore, after being pent up in the canoe twenty-three hours, with the exception of staying a half hour at Mangutara.

It had rained for the last seven hours; I was saturated to the skin, and felt so benumbed with cold, fatigue, and sleep, that I was carried out of the canoe, and placed on shore. I had a shed made, and an immense fire, where I nearly roasted myself without any benefit accruing; and, in taking to my bed, found it impossible to close my eyes from excessive lassitude.