1893 - MacKenzie, F. W. Overland from Auckland to Wellington in 1853 - [DIARY, South Island and back to Wellington]

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Wednesday, 7. --A lovely day, with light breeze and bright sun. In the evening I took my passage in a little fore-and-after to Flaxburn on the Middle Island.

Thursday, 8. --Up at 6 a. m. The signal for the little craft's departure flying; had breakfast and went on board. Found the captain had not come off. The vessel is only 15 tons--not so big as many of the open boats that trade on the West Coast of India. The wind is fair, and it looks as if it were coming stronger, so I hope to be across the Straits before dark. Did not get off till 12 noon. One half the deck was under water nearly the whole way across. Landed at 6 p. m. and walked up to Mr Clifford's station, where I put up for the night. A Mr Shepherd came over with me.

Friday, 9. --The house is half a mile from the landing-place. The country is hilly and not a tree to be seen, but plenty of grass, though much of it is of a coarse tufty kind which no cattle will eat excepting just after it has been burnt. The rocks are limestone. The house is in a little valley off a large one, in which is a small stream. There has been

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no rain here for a long time, and the country looks parched up. They are going to drive 6000 sheep to Canterbury. They have a great deal of scab here. The wool is fine, averaging 3 lb. per sheep. The land here seems very poor; there is almost nothing in the garden, though it has existed for four or five years, and seems well kept; and some grain I saw looked miserable. The place seems fit for nothing but a sheep run. I walked up to the wool-shed, which is a mile from the house. There Mr Shepherd got a mare to ride, and took my blankets on the saddle. The valley takes a bend, and again comes on the sea, so as to be open at both ends, and the gales of wind which prevail in the Straits blow up and down with as much force as outside. Further up the soil seems better. Half a mile from the shed we came to a lagoon, leaving which we proceeded on to the Great Salt Lagoon. The country is the same. There is a good coat of short grass, with the tuft or tussock grass here, but not so much as lower down. This lagoon is separated from the sea by a narrow bank, which sometimes bursts. There were great numbers of the paradise duck here; the female has a white head. They all seem to go in pairs, and are very tame. We skirted the Great Salt Lagoon for some miles, and then turned inland and crossed the blind river, which is a succession of deep water-holes, like an Australian river.

Three miles further up we came to some steep ravines on Mr Newcome's station, where we put up for the night. This station is on the Awatere or Kaiparitihau River. I saw in the house a map of the valley, by which it appears that all the land worth having, chiefly near the lower extremity, is sold.

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Saturday, 10. --Had a good sleep on a mattress on the floor. The house is very comfortable; the walls are made of mud, and the roof of grass. There is no firewood to be had here, except what they get out of the bed of the river. Mr Shepherd was to get a horse here, but he could not be found, so we had to go and hunt for him. After wandering unsuccessfully for a long way over the hills we had to give up the search, so returned and sent a boy who knew the horse's haunts. We got off at 12 noon, and crossed the river once to a place where Mr Taylor is shearing his sheep. There being no dray-road to his station, he has to drive his sheep down here and live in tents while the shearing goes on. Here I bought a mare from a man called Jack Matthews. We crossed the hills by Maxwell's Pass down into a broad valley, which led us into the Wairau Plain. We put up for the night at a station in charge of a Scotchman named Maxwell, the discoverer of the pass.

Sunday, 11. --Obliged to go on to-day, as Mr Shepherd is going, and I cannot stop here. We rode on for about 20 miles to Mr Shepherd's house on the Waiopai.

We first went to the Beaver Station, the place from which the wool from the Wairau Station is embarked. It is here put into whaleboats and taken down to the mouth of the river to the Boulder Bank, and thence sent either to Nelson or Wellington in small coasting schooners. The plain of the Wairau is about twelve miles wide, and the river runs along the west side. The soil seems pretty good in some parts, but much of it is wet or stony, and unfit for cultivation. I only saw one spot cultivated, and the crop there looked miserable. There is only one patch

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of forest. It is situated near the Beaver Station, and the owners charge £1 per tree. The timber is white pine, which is the worst in the island.

Mr Shepherd's house is on the river Waiopai. It is a neat little mud cottage, nicely plastered inside. He has a tiny bit of garden in front, but it looks very much parched, as does the whole of this country. They have had no rain here for two months. The runs here are all on the east side of the valley. The opposite side is so very mountainous as to be unfit for anything. Even the timber on it cannot be got at. Many of the settlers far back have to drive their sheep down to the low country to shear, there being no roads to their stations. They are sending a great many sheep and cattle to Canterbury. One man I met had contrived to drive 4000 sheep at 2s a-head. Another was taking his flock to a station he had taken up in the South of Canterbury, and expected to be four months on the road.

Monday, 12. --Halted here to-day in consequence of the rain, which had been threatening all yesterday. It fell in considerable quantities through last night as well as to-day.

Tuesday, 13. --Saddled my mare and gave her to Mr Shepherd to hold. She got away and buck-jumped fearfully. After much trouble I caught her, mounted, and rode off, but when I had got about a quarter of a mile away she began to buck again, and all I could do I could not get her to move from the place, so I returned to Mr Shepherd, who advised me to take her back, riding the horse he had brought up. I did so, and got to the place about sunset. The man had warranted her quiet, and particularly not to buck-jump, so I had some hope of being able

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to induce him to take her back. When I got there he swore he had never said she did not buck, only he had never seen her buck, and he refused to take her back. I threatened to bring an action against him, and said I would leave the mare. Mr Taylor said he thought he would come round when he had thought over it and had a talk with his mates, so I had some dinner and went to sleep in Mr Taylor's tent.

Wednesday, 14. --This morning, as I was preparing to start, Dick came and said that by Mr Taylor's advice he was willing to take £5 to be off the bargain. I handed the mare over to him, with the saddle, &c, and he went to get the money, but after all he changed his mind; and after keeping me waiting for a long time said he would not give the money, that he did not care if I did pull him for it, that I could not get blood out of a stone, &c. After this I set out back to Mr Shepherd's. Mr Taylor had gone on. I overtook him in the pass, and we went on to tlie dairy station ten miles from Shepherd's, where we slept.

Thursday, 15. --Went on to Mr Shepherd's, and from thence to Mr Courtenay's. He is a magistrate, lives at Nelson, and has a station here which he visits now and then. The country here looks well. It is a fine place for sheep--something like some parts of the Highlands at Home, but more grass. Mr Courtenay's house is the most dirty, slovenly-looking place I have seen. When we went in we found the breakfast things dirty on the table of the room, which serves as kitchen and dining-room. In one doorway leading to another room hung a bloody sheep's head, and in another part the carcase of the same animal.

I have to remain here all night, as Mr Courtenay

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was out when I came, and it is now too late to go back. I was told here that there is only one piece of land on the plain for sale. I passed over it to-day. The greatest part of it is so very stony as to be quite unfit for anything but grazing, and it is but a few hundred acres altogether. I slept on the floor on sheepskins, woolpacks, &c, along with three others.

Friday, 16. -- Up at daylight and off to Mr Shepherd's, where we breakfasted. Mr Courtenay could do nothing for me towards the recovery of my money, he not having authority to act in cases involving more than £20. After breakfast we set out down the valley again, as yesterday I left my watch behind at the dairy, and I was anxious for its safety. I pushed on, and thankful I felt when I saw it once more.

Mr Courtenay advised me to take the mare to Nelson, sell her by auction, and sue Dick for the balance. I hope when he hears what I intend to do, he may think better of it and return my money. I have determined to return to Awatere with Mr Taylor. We slept at Maxwell's, as it came on to rain.

Saturday, 17. --Crossed the pass. I caught my mare and tried to lead her, but she would not go at all--in fact, she is not broken in, and I have been regularly taken in with her. Jack knew perfectly well what she was, and lied when he said she was quiet. I fear I cannot get redress; being such a distance from Nelson, it would be impossible to get the witnesses necessary. After talking over the business with Mr Taylor and Mr Pyke--who is Taylor's mate--they offered to give me a little horse and £5 for the mare, just to get me on, which offer

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I thankfully accepted, and remained with them for the night.

Sunday, 18. --To-day I walked up to the dairy. I think it much better to go on on the Sabbath than to remain in company with the shearers, who seem the most depraved set I ever came across. The man who keeps this dairy is a very respectable Scotchman called Brydon, from Edinburgh. He has a very large family of very small, fat children, and seems to be doing very well.

Mr Pyke has been overland to Otago, looking for a run. He spoke in terms of high praise of the country between Christchurch and Otago; says it is a very fine place for sheep, but better for cattle on account of the wet and snow, and the difficulty of getting wool away.

Monday, 19. --I started about 6 o'clock up the Wairau Valley. After about 20 miles it gets very narrow, and appears to have been at one time the bed of the river. The soil is very poor and stony. The hills on the north side are wooded, and very much broken and rugged. From this point Nelson is only 85 miles distant as the crow flies, but 120 as I have to go. I overtook a man on the road going to Nelson, named Gibson. He is a shepherd, and has charge of Mr Green's run, and appears a very decent old man. He told me he intended going as far as the "top house," a place on the other side of the big river; and as I had heard much of the danger of crossing the river, and being ignorant of the proper place, I determined to go along with him. We halted at Mr Dupper's station and had dinner, and then proceeded to the branch river, which we crossed easily. Just as we got to the big river a

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tremendous storm of wind and sleet came down the valley, and by the time we got over the river the weather looked so threatening that we determined to halt there and pass the night in a deserted hut, called the Manuka Island hut. The river is very rapid, the bottom consisting of large round stones, which roll down when the river is flooded. It must be a most dangerous place at those times. To-day it is rather low, so we got over without much difficulty. We soon had a large fire in the hut, and Mr Gibson produced some tea, bread, and meat, on which having supped, we turned in, as we intended being off at dawn next morning. Here I saw for the first time a wood-hen. It is a very stupid sort of bird, with very small wings, and is about the size of a pheasant. It came quite close to the door of the hut, and did not seem to fear us in the least. The Natives catch them by tying some red feathers to the end of a long pole, and making them dance up and down. The wood-hen, seeing this, comes to fight it, and the Native slips a flax noose over its head.

This island is covered with very large manuka trees. The manuka is like the Australian tea-tree. One sort is very like the "broom scrub," and has a very sweet-scented flower, which covers it so completely as to hide the leaves. The trees on this place are used for fence rails and rafters.

Tuesday, 20. --Off at daylight. During the night I had a pain in my knee. I found relief when I stretched the leg, but then my feet got so cold that at last I got up and lit the fire. This morning there is a dry frost, and the hills close above us are covered with snow. Our poor horses fared badly, as a flock of sheep have lately been detained here for some

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days by the river, and the grass has been all eaten up. Four miles further on we came to a black birch forest, through which we passed. It extends ten miles, and as the path is very wet, we had to walk nearly the whole way. Some of the trees which stood directly in the way have lately been cut. There are a great many steep gullies to traverse, where the path is very slippery. About one o'clock we got out of the forest, having been nearly four hours in passing through. Here we halted at a house to have something to eat--bread and cheese, for which they charged 1s 6d. The country here resembles some parts of the North Island, being fern-clad hills. On the way we crossed several streams, generally following them either up or down, and then crossing over the hills and so down on another stream. At sunset we entered another forest, where I perceived the road had been laid out with ditches on either side of it, and about four miles further we came to a house where we put up for the night. The owner, "Gork" Rodger, a Yorkshireman, had been to the village, and was drunk, but his wife made us as comfortable as she could. We had good beds in a detached house.

Wednesday, 21. --Up at daylight. Our host and family still asleep, so I called out to know what I had to pay, and the wife replied, "Half-a-crown," which sum I deposited on the table and departed. On leaving this place the roadsides began to show signs of cultivation. A good many small cottages, fences, patches of grain, &c, appeared from time to time, and increased in number as we advanced until we got into the Wakefield Valley, where there are large farms. The valley widens out into a considerable plain, something like Wairau, but the signs

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of industry which appear on all sides make a wonderful difference in the scene. I halted at Richmond for breakfast, and then proceeded into Nelson, where I arrived at 12 o'clock. The road all the way is lined with fields and houses, and the whole country seems to be in a most flourishing state. After dinner I went to the post office, but was disappointed at finding no letters, as I fully expected to get some here. This has been a very hot day. They have had no rain for a long time, and the vegetation looks parched up.

Thursday, 22. --Up at 7 o'clock. A hot sultry morning. There are myriads of flies of all kinds about the house--more even than I recollect to have seen in Australia. About 9 o'clock the sea breeze set in. I called on Mr Sclanders after breakfast. He has no letters. I asked him about the Happy Valley. He said it was a very out-of-the-way place --no road to it, and the farm Henry mentioned would never do for Aunt Flora, as there was only a small hut on it. He showed me a plan of Henry's place, and told me the former owner wished to sell some more land adjoining it, which would render the property more compact and valuable. I intend to go up to look at it after dinner. The only land for sale in this part is in very small quantities, and in private hands, at high prices.

After dinner I walked up to Henry's place and saw the former owner. He pointed out the boundaries, and also the additional piece he wants to sell. It is almost all hill land--the only level piece being just at the top of the little valley. The whole of Henry's place is one tangled mass of weeds, docks (4ft. high) as thick as they can stand, and all going to seed, and the flowers and fruit trees--of which

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there is abundance--quite choked up. The house, which is of boards, is not larger than the men's hut at Konawarran, and the shingle roof so much out of repair that it leaks at a hundred places. Notwithstanding all this, it is a nice little place, and with a little care and outlay might be made a very lovely spot. The valley in which it is situated was formerly the favourite part of the town, but it has been nearly deserted in consequence of the encroachments of the stream which runs through it. Henry's place being situated in a small valley which runs up at right angles to the main one, is not liable to be injured by the stream.

Friday, 23. --A vessel came in from Wellington this morning, so I hope to get letters. After breakfast went to the post office, but my letter had been sent to Sclanders. I went there and got it. The sight of the address disappointed me, but on opening it I had the pleasure of seeing Rachel's handwriting. The letter had been enclosed to Sclander's care by Mr Davie. I have now been three months away, so I think there must be more letters on their way. How much I wish I could get them, but moving about as I am, I fear I have not much chance. I called at the Land Commissioner's office. The people there seem to make it a rule to give as little information to strangers as they possibly can. In the evening I walked up the Brook street road to the coal mines. They are a mile or two beyond Henry's place. There is a good road all the way. The coal seems pretty good. It is light, but improves as they get further into the hill. The working has been stopped for some time, but is about to be commenced again.

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Saturday, 24. --Sclanders took me to the Land Office and introduced me to the Commissioner, Major Richmond. He told me that in fact there was no land of any extent in the Nelson District in the Government's hands. He said that the land held by squatters could not be put up at 5s an acre unless at the squatter's request, and almost none of it is worth more, if so much as 5s. He said it was not the wish of the Government that any land profitably occupied should change hands, and that this rule had been framed as a protection to squatters whose runs are already stocked. (All the Wairau runs are already stocked.) After dinner I walked with Mr Huddlestone up the Maitai Valley. It is a very pretty place. Mr Huddlestone has bought a place with a house near the lower part of the valley. It is a pretty large, comfortable-looking house, having four good-sized rooms, a kitchen with range, &c, and two acres of land laid out as a garden, full of fruit trees, fine and large. Altogether it is a pretty place for £500. He has let it for a year, intending to go to Europe for his family. Through the valley runs the stream from which it takes its name--the Maitai-- winding from side to side of the level part. The gentleman to whom Mr Huddlestone has let his house owns the greater part of the valley, and has had a pretty walk made up one side, with the clear stream on the one hand and the high hills on the other. It is a delightful place to walk in the afternoon when the sun is shaded by the hills. When returning we met Dr Richardson, who rents the house. He asked us in and introduced us to his wife. The inside of the house pleased me more than the outside. It is nicely furnished, and altogether seems a most desirable residence. The Wairau run-holders have lately purchased most of the flat land

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near their runs so as to secure them--the hills without the flat being useless--and some of them have had to sell their little places near Nelson to enable them to do this. There has been a town--Waitohi-- laid out at Queen Charlotte's Sound, the sections of which are rapidly being bought up. It is intended to make a dray-road thence to the Wairau River, which will he crossed by a punt. When this is done I think Waitohi will cut out Nelson, as it will then become the Wairau Port, and the country round must soon become a large agricultural as well as pastoral district. The country round Waitohi, and all about the Sound, is thickly wooded, but there are many beautiful little bays, some with considerable quantities of good flat land, and good water communication in every direction.

Sunday, 25 (Christmas Day). --Heavy rain and strong wind all day, so I kept my room and saw no one except at meal times.

Monday, 26. --A lovely day after the night's rain. I walked up the hill to the right of the town, from whence I had a fine view of the whole place. All the shops are shut to-day, it being kept as a holiday instead of yesterday.

Tuesday, 27. --Very hot again. I feel the climate here make me lazy and unwilling for exertion or work of any kind. I think I must be off. I have seen and learnt all I can about the place, and I had better be moving about than sticking here doing nothing. The brig Gazelle from Sydney came in with stock--horses, cattle, and 600 sheep. I went to see the sheep landed. They seem healthy and strong. They expect 35s a-head for them.

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To-day there is a grand meeting of all the people of the country. All the children of the different schools meet and have tea together, after which they play at all sorts of games. I went to see them. The grown up people and young men and women were playing at kiss-in-the-ring. I was amused to see how some of the girls took the being kissed quite coolly, others resisting and struggling as long as they could.

Thursday, 29. --I have determined to leave Nelson to-day. A man of the name of Collier is going with me to Port Cooper (Lyttelton). He does not know more of the country than I do, and is not at all a man I should make a friend or assistant of, but still it is better to have such an one than to travel through an uninhabited country by oneself. Another man, a surveyor, who wished to go with me as far Wairau, being unable to get his horse shod, detained us till the evening. At last we set out without him, and rode as far as "Gork" Rodger's, where we arrived at 10 o'clock and put up for the night.

I have been very much pleased with Nelson altogether. The people I met there seemed much more inclined to show me kindness and hospitality than elsewhere. The town is a nice little place, as is also the country round; but I do not think it ever can be more unless its coal and copper mines bring it forward. At present I should say it was a most excellent place for a person to reside in who wished to be quiet and live cheaply, &c, on his means; but except shop-keeping, I see no means of anyone not a tradesman obtaining a livelihood. Most of the people who have farms in the Waimea (the valley at the back of the town), have also runs in Wairau or elsewhere. I have been repeatedly told that farm-

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ing, unless the farmer does all the work himself, does not pay well, in consequence of the very high rate of wages necessary to be given to secure the services of labourers.

I hope to be back to Nelson or to Wellington in three weeks or a month if nothing detains me. It is my intention to sell my horse when I get to Canterbury, and go by sea from Port Cooper either back to Nelson or to Wellington, as I may find opportunity.

Friday, 30. --I got up early, but could not induce my companion to rise. He detained me till 10 o'clock, when we got off and rode to Davie Kerr's, the furthest up house on this side of the bush. I found no difficulty in tracing my way back through these hills, and should have got on pretty fast, but Mr Collier complained much of the effects of riding. I find he is not at all used to travelling, and is but a poor hand at roughing it.

Saturday, 31. --The house was full of people last night, so I had to sleep on the floor, not liking the plan of going halves in a bed, which I find to be thought nothing of here. I got up at 4 a. m. and called the others. We soon got breakfast, and at 6 o'clock got away and rode to Mr Duppa's station, further than which Mr Collier said he could not go. We took four hours to get through the bush. On the Wairau side we halted at the "top house." It is situated on a very pretty spot near a birch forest, with the river below, some way off. It was an inn, but has been deserted on account of the distance from the only place where supplies are to be had. Here we remained for two hours to let our horses feed, and then went on to Mr Duppa's.

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Sunday, January 1, 1854. --I slept in the store on some wool packs, with a bloody, disgusting-looking old ram's head hanging above me. This is the country to learn to rough it in, and no mistake. A little rain fell this morning, but it soon passed off, and it is now a fine day. The man here was hurt the other day by a dray wheel passing over his leg. He had got between the bullocks to take out the pole pins (a common practice here) when they made a rush forward and knocked him down. He is in great pain, but I think he will recover. I saw a man at the last station who had lost his way and had been ten days in the bush, during which time he subsisted on three robins. He was not much more than a mile from the house the whole time. He must have been a stupid fellow not to have got more robins, for they are so tame that one can knock any number down with a stick.

Towards evening, being unable longer to endure this disgusting hole of a place, and the society of the men (two of whom had been gentlemen), we got our nags and rode over to Mr Sweet's place, where we were kindly welcomed by Mrs Sweet and her husband. She is almost the only lady in the Wairau! They seemed glad to see any one. I fancy it must be a dull life for those who live in the country here. The lady did not seem to mind it. She said she had so much to do with her children and one thing and another that she never wished to go away anywhere.

Monday, 2. --This morning I was again detained by Mr Collier, who changed his mare for a horse of Mr Sweet's. He seemed much pleased with his bargain, and we got on much better. On the way we stopped at a house of entertainment (shanty!), where I found I had lost my purse. There was not much

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in it, but I was very sorry to lose it, as it had been given to me by Flora when leaving Port Fairy. It was little use going to look for it, but I did go until I came to a place where we had passed through long grass, when I gave it up and returned. We then went on to Brydon's dairy station, where we put up for the night.

Tuesday, 3. --This morning my companion's horse was found to have taken himself off during the night. He had no tether-rope; though I had told Mr Collier to get one in Nelson, he neglected to do so, and tied his horse with a rotten rope, which he broke. We lost the whole day looking for him. In the evening, when we had come to the conclusion that he had gone home, old Gibson came to the dairy and offered to go and fetch him for £1. This I thought reasonable, and advised Mr Collier to agree to give it, but he would not do so; and I made up my mind to leave him. He has kept me back and been of more annoyance than use to me hitherto, and as he refuses to pay for having his horse brought back, I think myself quite justified in leaving him. I shall go and see the mouth of the Wairau, and perhaps Queen Charlotte's Sound, after which I shall shape my course for Canterbury.

Wednesday, 4. --I got up at 4 o'clock, and leaving Mr Collier asleep, I proceeded towards the Beaver Station. When I had got about half the way I found I was on the wrong side of a creek, so had to retrace my steps for some miles, and I did not arrive till 6 o'clock. I had breakfast and set out for the mouth of the river. It is called the Boulder Bank, and is at present the shipping port of the Wairau and Awatere. I was told there was only one track.

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I followed the only one I could see, and again lost some time, having left the proper path and followed one which led between two raupo swamps, back nearly as far as the place I started from. When I found I could get no farther in that direction I returned, and seeing a sail above the bushes made towards it, and was directed into the proper track by the boatmen, who were returning to the Beaver from the port. I arrived at the port at 2 o'clock, and leaving my horse, crossed the river to the public-house. It has been a very hot day, and I have a bad headache.

I do not think much of this part of the country will ever be cultivated. I found the men at the port all drunk. One man I met here told me he had been a surveyor here, and that there were not many acres of level land that would produce much, most of the ground being so stony and swampy as to be unfit for cultivation. He also told me that it would take me five days' hard work to reach the Sound, and that I should have to carry provisions, &c, as there are no people there just now. This I do not fancy in the present very hot weather, so I shall start for Port Cooper to-morrow.

Thursday, 5. --I set out at half-past 8 and rode to Moit's station on the Awatere, a distance of 30 miles. The day was very hot, and the road so bad that I had to walk the greater part of the way. After rounding the Bluff--a high point, impassable at high water--I followed the course of the Awatere, passing the place where Mr Taylor's sheep were shorn, and where I made the unlucky purchase of my mare. I dined at a station belonging to a Mackay, a Ross-shire man, who has now several stations, and who began as a shepherd owning 46 sheep.

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Friday, 6. --To-day I have to enter the Fairfield Downs--here called the "fearful downs." I am told that I pass to-day through the most difficult country on the road to the Awatere, and it promises to be a very hot day. There is a cool breeze now-- 5 a. m. --but I fear much it will be hot enough before long.

A few miles from the house I crossed the Awatere, and proceeded up a ridge on to a high range of hills, which I kept till about 2 o'clock, continually ascending and descending, when I again came down on the river, and halted at a shepherd's hut, where I had some tea and bread. I then went on some miles further to another hut, where I passed the night. The whole of this country is well grassed, but looks as if the hills were purposely made so as not to leave one spot of level ground. I had to walk the whole way. Often my horse had to slide down the hills for many yards at a time. The last part of the way there was no track.

Saturday, 7. --I started at 8 o'clock on a good track, but soon lost it at a place where it crosses the river. I kept on the same side for some time, till I could proceed no further. I then crossed and passed over places where I do think a goat would find difficulty in walking. I tried to re-cross the stream several times, and in about two hours after I set out I was overtaken by a man from the hut who told me I had left the road, and advised me to go on with him to another hut further up, which I did. I was there informed that the road went towards a mountain on the left bank, but that I had kept the proper direction, and might get on to the road again by following up the river. This I did. Here the river runs between high hills, which jut out in rocky

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points, obliging me to cross and re-cross the stream many times. At last I got out into a plain, and came upon some sheep tracks, which I followed till 6 o'clock, when, my horse being very tired, I camped at a small stream and had some tea; and having made a sort of roof with grass to keep off the dew, I turned in for the night, and slept well.

Sunday, 8. --Up at 4 o'clock, but as my horse had wound himself up I did not start till 6, to let him eat a bit. I saw a great many wood-hens about in the thick grass, but did not try to catch any. The first part of the way was pretty easy, being along the river's side. The sun was very powerful. At noon I caught a young duck and cooked and ate him, and halted for about four hours to rest my horse, making a tent of my blankets. I then followed the stream up to its source, where I crossed a pass in the mountains, and went down into another valley on the other side. Before coming to the pass the route lay along the steep sides of the hills. My little horse got along wonderfully well, picking his way over places where I had to hold on by my hands or support myself with a stick. On the other side another stream has its source, and flows into the Clarence River. This stream I followed down till night, when I camped in a dry hole, over which I made a sort of roof of sticks and grass.

Monday, P. --Set out at five o'clock and followed the stream till it became a large river and joined the Waiautoa (Clarence). The country is mountainous, but well grassed. I crossed at the junction, but seeing no old tracks on the other side, I came back and followed the Waiautoa up for some way to a place where I saw sheep tracks on the

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sand. Here I crossed and kept the other side till towards evening I saw a pass to my left. The river runs east, so I thought this pass must be the way. I went up it and found abundant tracks, which followed along a high ridge projecting into the plain below, and so down. It came on to rain, and as it was near night I halted and made a good roof to windward of manuka sticks and branches. I dined to-day on another duck--I caught two large ones. The rain ceased but still threatened, so my roof was a great comfort. I did not tether my horse, as there was no clear place, and the fear of losing him kept me awake. At last I got up and went out determined to tie him up, but it was so dark I could not find him, so I lighted my fire and sat up till daybreak, when I again went out to look for him. I could not find him anywhere, when, just as I was beginning to think what things I should take with me in the event of his having made off, I saw his ears sticking above the manuka bushes.

Tuesday, 10. --This has been a day of misfortune. I set out in a large plain surrounded on all sides by high mountains, nothing but the sun to guide me, and several large swamps to be avoided. After losing one half of the day in making circles to look for tracks, I found the place where they ascended the hills and followed in the track. There is a large river, which at first I thought I should cross, but as it was very high, and I could see no tracks crossing, I gave up the idea; and it was fortunate, as, had I crossed or even tried to cross, I should have been either swept down or lost my way on the other side. Going up the hill I met a man on his way to Nelson. He proved to be the brother of the man from whom I had bought the mare. He

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told me that after passing the hills I should come to a large river, which he said was impassable just now, and that I must wait till it fell before attempting to cross it. He also told me of a station some 20 or 30 miles down the river, and advised me to go there and wait until the river fell. Just after he left me it came on a fearful storm of wind and sleet, and I got involved in a burnt manuka scrub, from which I found it difficult to extricate myself; so, after wandering about for some hours, I halted, and making a frame with manuka sticks, I spread my rug for a tent, took off my clothes, and put on my blanket Native fashion. I then cooked a duck and made tea. I collected a heap of sticks to burn during the night. My clothes soon dried, so I put them on and slept pretty well, wakening up whenever I got cold, and lighting up the fire. I am out of the route, have no more food and biscuits than will keep me two days, but I do not feel the least alarmed. I know that God can provide for me even here, though I am in a place probably never before visited by a human being, ignorant of the way out of this on to the right track, and even should I find my way, I have an impassable river in front, which shuts me out from assistance.

Wednesday, 11. --When I got up this morning I got sight of the river from the top of a high hill which I had climbed. I fixed my course, and on emerging from the hills, found the river I saw to be another much further off than the big one I have to cross. On looking about me I found the directions given me by the man I met so very vague that I gave up the idea of trying to get to the station down the river and made up my mind to try and cross it. I tied all my baggage on the top of my saddle, put my

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matches in the top of my hat, took off my trousers, and put on my swimming belt, and taking the end of the tether rope, I drove the horse in. For two thirds of the way the horse kept his legs, and I held on by his tail. He then began to swim, and almost immediately turned over, feet up and head down. Seeing this I struck out, got to the other side, and held on to the rope till the force of the stream brought him to the bank, but he did not make any attempt to get up. There he lay; the weight of the wet things on his back was too much for him, and I could not go near him, as the bank was composed of loose stones, and I would have been pulled in; so I let him lie for some time, then allowed him to float down, keeping his head up till I came to a place where another stream ran in. There I made a rush and got the girths loosed, when he got up on his legs, but the saddle and all my things floated away. As I had no wish to go into Canterbury without my trousers, I jumped in after them, and after much work got them out at a place where the river was shallow near the bank. Had it not been for the swimming belt I should have lost everything. As soon as I got out I lighted a large fire, dried everything, had some tea, and set out again. On this side some hills ran down to a point. These I ascended, when I saw another river, and high flax beyond. I determined to keep up on the hills to avoid the swamps, and also to have a good view of the plain. After I had gone some miles I noticed two horses far away on the plain. Soon they began to move quickly. I watched them, and seeing them keep in one direction till they got out of sight, I determined to strike for the same point. Presently I saw a cloud of dust rise, and soon afterwards smoke. I could see no house, so thought they might be

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travellers, but I kept on towards the place. About sunset I got to it, and had the pleasure of seeing several men and a flock of sheep. I went up to them and found that it was Mr Young's station. The house consists of a hole in the bank with a roof over it, and a sort of drain for a chimney.

My trousers were torn nearly to pieces. I had only kept them on by flax bandages, so they gave me a pair of moleskins which only came about two inches below my knees, but I was glad to get them to put on. I then went to the house, where I had a good supper of bread and mutton, and turned in on a wool-bale, thankful for getting again amongst human beings and out of the endless mountains where I had been wandering for the last four days.

Thursday, 12. --I halted here to-day to rest my horse; he is nearly done. The half drowning he had in the Waiau has nearly finished him.

Mr Young is here just now. I think this is the most miserable attempt at a station I could possibly imagine. They have about 600 sheep of every kind and breed--all scabby. They have no yards or shed. Some shearers came here, but would not remain on account of the want of accommodation. The wool is in the house--it is nearly full of it--and his men are shearing under a blanket for a shed. One man dips the sheep into a cask, after which they are let loose amongst the scabby ones. I went out with Mr Young to try and keep the flock together, but they are so wild that many got away, darting off to the hills at full gallop. They seem as wild as deer.

Friday, 13. --I set out at 9 a. m., crossed the plain and Hurunui River, and passed a station, after which I crossed some limestone hills down into another

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plain, where I found a small shepherd's hut in the bed of a small river. Here I passed the night. The floor was made of small round stones--not a very comfortable sort of thing to sleep upon--but I got some broad palings, which I laid under my rug. The country I passed through is covered with long, fine grass, but I saw no trees. The people get all their firewood out of the river beds. The whole of this country has been taken up, but it is not nearly stocked.

Saturday, 14. --Up at daybreak and off. It is about 45 miles to Christchurch. I cannot go direct, as there are some swamps on the way, in which I should probably stick if I were to try and cross them. About 11 o'clock I crossed the bed of a river, nearly a mile wide, all round stones. On the other side I came to a house from which there was a dray-road the whole way. About here there are several patches of white pine. On the way I passed several huts, some Native places, and two ferries across sluggish-looking rivers, and got into the town about 5 o'clock. The country is quite flat, with some sand-hills near the sea. My poor horse was very tired; he wished to stop at every house I came to, and seemed to think it very hard to have to pass so many. Before I got to the inn I had great difficulty in even driving him before me. As soon as I got in I went to several (indeed all) the stores to get a pair of trousers, but the only ones I could get were corduroys, as much too big for me as the others were too small.

Sunday, 15. --I remained at home all day.

Monday, 16. --I called at the Land Office this morning. The Commissioner here takes the opposite

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view of the regulations from the man at Nelson. He is willing to sell the land held as runs outside the block at 5s an acre, provided it be unfit for agriculture. I sold my horse for £40. I have lost £15 by him, but he has served me well, and would not have brought more than £25 in Nelson. There are some passengers from England per "Northfleet" here. They were returning to the port, and I walked with them. We crossed the hill--1000 feet high--a tremendous pull up. The port is ten miles from Christchurch. All goods are brought up in small vessels round by the heads, and up a river to within a mile or two of the town. There is a fine view from the top of the hill, but the country on the other side of the harbour was covered by a thick fog, so I did not see much of it.

Tuesday, 17. --I hired a horse to-day and rode to Christchurch to get my things. I have determined to return to Wellington in the "Wellington," which, they say, sails to-morrow.

All the people who are anxious to buy land here are waiting till the price be reduced. There is no chance of any outside the block being bought until that inside is disposed of, as for any one to buy it now would be only to sink money.

Wednesday, 18. --The "Wellington" was to have sailed to-day, but cannot get out, as the wind is contrary. I called at the post-office and got letters from Aunt Flora and John. I walked round the hills and had a view of the Heads. They have made a road a little way round, but it is said it would take £12,000 to complete it.

Thursday, 19. --Hanging about all day in hopes of the wind changing. The captain is drunk.

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Friday, 20. -- The same as yesterday.

Saturday, 21. --About 1 p. m. the wind changed, and I went on board just as they had got up the anchor. The wind came round again, and we tried to beat out. At the Heads it fell calm, and we had to anchor for the night.

Sunday, 22. --Wind came fair towards evening. We weighed anchor and stood out. The captain still drunk. Wind came stronger, and we lay to all night off Motunau.

Monday, 23. --We have to take in wool here. At daylight a small island came in sight. It is off the place, so we stand in and about 1 o'clock come to anchor. No boat came off till 5 p. m., when I landed, went up to the house, and remained all night. The country here is like what I passed the day in before I got to Christchurch--covered with tufty grass; and the beach is covered with round chalk stones.

Tuesday, 24. --Mr Caverhill, the manager of this station, sent to another station nine miles up the coast for a boat, which did not arrive till 11 o'clock, when we all set to work to ship the wool. It is very Blow work. They have 65 bales, and only nine goat a time. They had time to make but two trips when the tide going out put an end to the proceedings for the day.

Wednesday, 25. --Had to leave off shipping the wool to-day in consequence of the wind rising after getting one half of the bales on board. I went off to the schooner and found the captain and men all drunk.

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At half-past 11 a. m. the wind came from the south. By that time the men were pretty sober. They slipped the cable and got clear of the reef off the island by a near shave. They were quick--only ten minutes--getting under weigh; had they been longer we should have gone ashore.

Friday, 27. --A very fine morning. We stood in. The wind tell, and we had to let go the other anchor to save the vessel from drifting into the island. In about an hour afterwards the wind came north and we got under weigh, and picked up the end of the other chain and got it on board. Just then a boat-load of wool came off. I am in hopes we shall get it all in to-day and be off to-night. They have brought off a sheep, so we shall have something to eat. There is nothing but salt beef on board. We sent a water cask on shore to be filled. Towards evening the wind fell and a heavy swell came on. The people who were bringing the wool brought off our water cask and left the ship saying they would bring no more, so we got ready for sea. Just as the men were going to begin getting up the anchor they came off with three more bales. The swell had by that time increased, and we were afraid the chain would snap every moment, so we refused to take more. The old captain insisted on its being taken, but the men were firm, and set to work at the anchor, so the boat dropped astern and we got under weigh. There was so little wind that for a long time we could hardly tell whether we were driving or drifting in, but at last we got a light breeze and got clear of the land.

Saturday, 28. --There is a strong north wind blowing and we are standing out from the land, truly

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thankful to have escaped the danger we were in last night.

Sunday, 29. --Wind as yesterday until noon, when it came fair for an hour or two, and we got as far as the Kaikouras.

Monday, 30. --During the night we drifted back. There has been a strong north wind all day. Towards evening we had to lie to.

Tuesday, 31. --Laying to all night. They say the gale seldom lasts more than 24 hours, so I hope it will soon be over. Our water is nearly done. The captain and crew use nearly four bottles of grog a day. (There are five of them.) They say the captain has never been sober, when he could help it, for the last 12 years.

Wednesday, February I. --The gale still continues. At daylight we were close to the land, the wind coming in gusts, one of which brought the vessel about just as the most sober of the men was saying that it was time to stand out again. Some of the men got grog up out of the hold, and at half-past 1 o'clock Johnstone and the captain were quite drunk. The passengers (another man and myself) are obliged to look after the ship. We can only show a small corner of our main-sail. The sea is all white, but our little vessel rides it like a cork, and the deck is seldom wet.

Thursday, 2. --During the night the gale moderated; the wind came more from the west. At 11 a. m. saw the Kaikouras to the west, and land in sight north. We think it is Cape Palliser. The captain is too drunk to know what it is, and the men

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are of different opinions. The wind died away towards the evening. Our water is very nearly done.

Friday, 3. --Calm all night; breeze from southwest. We stand in towards the land, which I think is Cape Palliser. The captain came up to-day and ordered the vessel to be steered N. W., which will just clear the cape. He thinks it is the Kaikouras.

While I was below one of the men took upon himself to alter the course and steer N., by which we have lost the day, for when we again steered in and made the land, night had come on, so we could not make it out, and had to lie to all night.

Saturday, 4. --Almost calm. The captain came on deck and declared the land to be Cape Palliser. We see the Kaikouras and the low land on the opposite side, so there is now no doubt as to our position. Had the captain been sober we should have got into Wellington last night; as it is, we have the prospect of being here some days without water. Calm and light winds all day, so we have made no progress.

Sunday, 5. --Thick weather and light rains. Land is in sight--Port Nicholson Heads. We have no water--not a drop. On making the land we supposed to be Port Nicholson Heads, it was declared to be Cape Palliser. Last night one of the men let go the anchor. Fortunately one part of it was fast, or it would have run out and been lost. I was in my bunk at the time, and thought the ship had run against a rock. We steer for the heads, but owing to the thick weather we passed them and continue west until we sight Cape Terawhiti. A small schooner which followed us discovered the mistake first and put about. We followed and lay to all night.

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Monday, 6. --This morning Port Underwood land and the Bluff in sight. The captain, who is suffering from want of water, wants to put into the former; but as Port Nicholson is as near, and the wind is equal for both places, we steered for Port Nicholson and soon sighted the land, which, after looking at my map and an old Port Cooper Almanac, I make out to be Cape Terawhiti. We steer more east and sight Cape Sinclair, and soon after see the heads. Wind is S. E., so we hope soon to be in.

Last night I found Johnston taking grog out of the hold. He said the captain had told him to do so, but the captain denied, and scolded him for taking it. However, the grog remained, and both Johnston and the captain are drunk this morning. John is at the helm. He knows the entrance well, and as the wind is east, takes us in through Chaffers passage. As soon as we got within the heads I called up the men, who were sleeping off the effects of the grog they had taken, and made them get up the chain. I went down and told the captain that we were in. He seemed quite delighted, and said he would rather hear that than get a hundred pounds.

At half-past 11 I landed and called at the post-office. There was only a letter from John and duplicates of those I had before received from Aunt Flora.

Tuesday, 7th. --John, I find, has gone over to Queen Charlotte's Sound. The only vessel here for Australia will not sail for a month, so I must wait.

Wednesday, 8. --A Mr Russell spoke to me to-day. He knows John, and recognised me by my likeness to him. He told me he considered Ahuriri to be the finest district in New Zealand. He thinks that by

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next year things there will be more settled than at present. Just now there are many claims for land, &c, and it is difficult to settle a purchase, as it has not been surveyed yet. This morning was bright and fair, but a strong wind, with rain, has set in from the north, and it is now a miserable wet day.

Thursday, 9. --I walked out to the Hutt River to-day. It is ten miles from Wellington. I got back by tea-time. The valley of the Hutt extends from the harbour to the Tararua mountains--about 50 miles. It is thought a great deal of by the Wellington people; and considering the formation of the country round their town, it is not extraordinary that they should think much of this little bit of flat land. A great deal of it is very swampy, and parts are frequently overflowed by the river. I noticed several neat patches of cultivation, and I have no doubt but that it is in the main fertile as far as it goes; but it is but a speck compared to the extent of hilly country about it.

Just after I returned the Government brig came in from Auckland. I am in hopes of getting by her the things which I left behind.

Saturday, 11. --Captain Cormack, of the 15th, called on me to-day, and we had a long conversation about this country, as well as about old things and people. I went on board the brig, but could not ascertain whether my things were on board or not. I had hoped to have got them in time to enable me to go to church, but was disappointed. The people on board were too busy to attend to me.

Sunday, 12. --A fine day, but I had to remain at home.

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Monday, 13. --Went on board the brig again, but could not hear anything of my kit. I find this a very dull place. There is nothing to do, and nowhere to go. I generally walk about the hills, but more for exercise than to see the place. There is nothing except the harbour worth seeing. The moon is full just now, and at night the harbour is beautiful.

Tuesday, 14. --I called at Bethune and Hunter's to-day to inquire about my things, and found that they had arrived about a month ago in the man-of-war brig "Fantome." I got them taken to the hotel, and found everything as I had left it except my poor hat, which looked as if it had been in a drunken row the night before. I dined with Cormack to-day. He is going to Canterbury and Otago in the brig.

John ought to have been back by this time. There is a vessel for Melbourne at Nelson, and I wish much I could go in her; but I do not like to leave without seeing John, and if I went across I might miss him.

Wednesday, 15. --Two young men of the name of Todd, from Ireland, who are travelling in this country, and have been here for some time, left for Port Cooper and Otago to-day. I miss them. One, quite a boy, is a very sharp, lively little fellow. I feel very much the want of something to do here. The only people I meet are shopkeepers or tradesmen--a low, drinking set, with whom I have nothing to do. When I first came I used to speak to everyone in order to get information, but I now find that I know about as much as any of them, and more than most. I often read over my letters, and wish I could get more from Konawarran. The last I had was

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dated October 3rd--a long time ago now. I have made up my mind to go over to Nelson and take my passage in the "Roller" to Melbourne. There is a schooner of 15 tons going to-morrow. I am in hopes of finding some letters at Nelson, which alone would be a sufficient inducement to go over.

Thursday, 16. --The schooner was not got ready yesterday, so our departure has been put off till tomorrow. With the exception of one or two days we have had delightful weather all the time I have been here. I prefer the climate of this place to that of any other I have visited, and I think, taking everything into consideration, it is the best place for an Indian to recruit at. I find that I have increased considerably in size since I came to New Zealand, and I am of opinion that the climate at this season is infinitely better than that of Australia. What it may be in winter I do not know, but from all I can hear, the whole country south of Nelson is cold and wet, the snow never lying long, as it does at Home. The Canterbury Plains must be most miserable in winter, as there is no protection whatever from the wind; and even in summer, I am told, the southwest winds blow with such violence as to prevent trees from growing, and drive the poor sheep to the hills. The north-west wind, which comes from the snow mountains is, strange to say, a warm, mild breeze compared to the south-west wind.

Since I arrived one of the men of the "Wellington" has been drowned. He was called Jim, and had been for fifteen or twenty years about the south of the Middle Island, whaling, &c, and had just come up here for the first time. His death has been caused by drink. I am told he is the third man who has been drowned within the last few months out of

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the "Wellington." The cook who came up with us is in gaol for having wounded a man in the hand by throwing a hammer at him. The man is either dead or dying. This also is the result of drink, and the captain is the cause of both these deaths, he having encouraged the men to drink, and supplied the grog, until all the men got into such a state that they could not stop drinking. It is disgraceful that such a man should be allowed to sail a ship. He ought to be put into a lunatic asylum, for he is not fit to take care of himself, much less to be entrusted with the lives of others. He told me that about 14 years ago he was whaling at Queen Charlotte's Sound, and that his employers sent from Sydney large quantities of grog, which was sold by him to the men at high rates, and that it was then he first took to drinking. Thus these unprincipled people, in order to cheat the poor men out of their wages, have been the means of bringing about an incalculable amount of crime and misfortune.

Friday, 17. --A gale of wind is blowing to-day from the south. The schooner which was to go to Nelson is not ready yet. The Government brig went out to-day, and in the evening John arrived. I saw a Nelson paper which came to-day, and I find there is no vessel there for Melbourne, so I must remain here until one leaves this for Australia. John has had a very uncomfortable passage across. Having been unable to get a berth, he has had no sleep for the last three nights.

Saturday, 18. --The gale continues. Clouds of dust are flying along the streets. I saw the captain of a schooner--the "Scotia"--for Melbourne. He says he does not take passengers, but he thinks he can

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take me, and will give me an answer on Monday. The only other vessel here for Australia goes to Sydney, and will not leave for ten days.

Sunday, 19. --I attended the Free Church place of worship to-day. The preacher tried to impress upon us the necessity of receiving the evidences of Christianity in a humble, truth-seeking spirit. His sermon was very good, but his manner was bad. He seemed to try to convince his hearers by the loudness of his voice and action of his body as much as by his words. I did not go again in the evening.

Monday, 20. --There is a schooner in from Melbourne to-day. Got a letter from Aunt Flora, and one from the Union Bank, but none from Konawarran. I fancy Rachel must have received the letter I sent from Auckland, and so sent my letters to Nelson. I cannot otherwise account for not having heard from her.

John and I went on board the "Scotia" and saw the mate, who said the captain had told him that he was going to take two passengers--brothers. She sails on Thursday next, so there is a hope of soon seeing those I love again. Had it not been for the drunkenness of the "Wellington" captain I should in all probability have been by this time at Konawarran, as two vessels left this after the time I ought to have arrived from Port Cooper. The weather here is very hot just now, but not nearly so much so as in Nelson and Canterbury when I was there. Aunt Flora talks of the advantage of Otago harbour, which puts me in mind of what I was told by several seafaring men from that port, viz., that the Otago harbour is rapidly filling up, and that vessels of any size cannot now approach within

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several miles of where they used to discharge. Nelson harbour is also spoken of by all sailors as a very bad one. Few ships will enter into it, as once in, they are often detained for a long time before they can get out again. It has no land communication with any part of the Nelson province except the town itself and the Waimea Valley, and never can become a port of much importance, unless it be on account of the copper mines, the working of which would introduce a description of population not advantageous to Nelson as a place of residence for respectable people. The Nelson people talk of having a small steamer to go about the coast and pick up the wool and other produce. This would, I doubt not, bring a great deal to their port which now goes to Wellington, but in a short time the Waitohi road will be made, and then all the Wairau, Wakefield, and Fairfield Downs produce will be sent to Nelson and shipped direct either to England or Sydney. I hear that the Ahuriri people are going to send their produce to Auckland next year. The Auckland people seem to be much more reasonable in their charges than the Wellington folks, who, so far as I can learn, take every opportunity to victimise those who deal with them, and thus, by overcharging those whom they get into their power, compel people to resort to other ports.

Tuesday, 21. --A strong breeze from the south today. The people on the "Scotia" still getting in logs, and I hear they are to take potatoes and hay, so I fear they cannot be ready by Thursday.

Wednesday, 22. --Some rain fell during the night, and slight showers all day.

Thursday, 23. --Still damp, with the wind blowing steadily from the south. I saw the captain of

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the "Scotia." He said that he had to get in some planking to put the potatoes on to-day, but the boatmen were all "on the spree," and would not work. I fear this will delay us. In the afternoon I saw some planks go on board.

Friday, 24. --A bright, sunny day; wind still south, but light. The "Scotia" will not sail before Tuesday next. On that day there is to be a grand festival at the Hutt in commemoration of the arrival of the first settlers, and I suspect the captain wishes to be present, in which case we shall not get off before Wednesday.

Saturday, 25. --A delightful day, bright and cool. The "Mountain Maid" brig is in from Otago. The "Wellington" is to go to Nelson to take passengers, but I think people will hardly go in her, for I have made no secret of the conduct of the captain and men on the passage from Port Cooper.

The man-of-war brig is going to the south. There are a great many vessels here just now, and produce of all sorts is high.

Sunday, 26. --A mild, sunny day.

Monday, 27. --Wind strong from the north-west. Should this continue it will prevent our getting away.

Tuesday, 28. --The wind the same as yesterday. In the afternoon I went to see the festival. We did not go to the dinner, but were in time to hear some of the speeches, the drift of which seemed to be reciprocal praise. One man said that he knew that more books had been published about New Zealand than about any other colony, &c After they had finished their speeches the tables were cleared away, and dancing began. About two-thirds of the people were Natives, some of whom attempted to dance

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trying their utmost to imitate the Europeans, very few of whom could dance a bit. Some of them tried to waltz to a polka, and I saw others dancing hornpipe steps to a waltz tune. We soon got tired of it, and returned to town. The place the festival was held in is a large building made of flax, and put up by the Natives for the occasion. I do not think any respectable white females remained to the ball--at least, if those who did so are considered as belonging to that class here, it says little for them.

Wednesday, March 1. --The wind is the same as yesterday, and a fine, bright day.

Thursday, 2. --Wind still blowing from the northwest, but there are some indications of a change. I have been collecting flax seed, and also some flax roots, which I am told retain their vitality for a long time. I hope and trust we shall get away tomorrow, being very tired of this place, though I like it better than any other I have seen in this country. It is very up-hill having nothing to do when once one has seen every spot worth seeing.

The people from Australia all say the season has been very dry there. There is a great demand for potatoes and hay. Potatoes have gone up from £6 to £10 a ton, and the people now refuse to sell at that price, hoping to get more before long.

Friday, 3. --Last evening I went to the Ship Hotel, where the captain of the "Scotia" lives, to find out if he intended to sail to-day. When I went in I saw the woman who keeps the house, with her husband, dragging out by the hair a man of the name of Macrae, whose father I had met at his station in the Middle Island. John was there. I rescued Macrae from the landlady and pushed him out (he was drunk), and then, not knowing but that

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John might be attacked, I turned into the doorway and saw the woman make a furious attack upon him with a hunting whip, with the butt end of which she hit him several times. He was much hurt, and as I was afraid he might retaliate on the woman, I begged of him to come out, which he did after he had taken the whip from her. I found that John had not interfered in any way, having gone to the hotel for the same purpose as myself, and was talking to the captain when the woman attacked Macrae. After the row was over we went to the police magistrate and had the woman and her husband up before the court this morning, when they were fined. It seems they were both drunk. At the court they deposed that I was the person who had created the disturbance--that I had jumped over the table and offered to fight all present, &c This, of course, all went against them, as the magistrate had seen me a quarter of an hour after the affair had taken place, and knew that I was perfectly sober. I was amused at the man and woman when told to question the witnesses. They each wished to put questions at the same time, and one told the other to keep quiet, at last falling out and contradicting each other. I have since been told that they are both notoriously bad characters, and it says little for the Wellington police and magistrates that they are allowed to retain their licenses. I did not think the better of our captain for living in such a place, but I suppose he is like most sailors, and cares little how he behaves in a strange place. The captain had promised to sail today, but he has been having so many parting glasses with his friends that he is not fit to go. John brought him down here with the intention of taking him on board, but Mr Pemble came and took him away to his house again. He (Mr Pemble) was

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drunk, and very abusive to me, but I was determined to have nothing to do with him, so took no notice of what he said, and I did not think it was worth while getting into a row with him for the sake of rescuing the captain from his clutches. I have been nearly a week in Wellington and have never had a word with anyone, and just because I have assisted to punish this man--who deserved much more than he got-- I have had several people here to-day evidently trying to pick a quarrel with me, but I treated them all with silent contempt. I could not help replying to the remark of one man, who said that the good people of Wellington were always afraid of Australians, but that there was not much fear of being cheated by them, as all their transactions were for ready money. I told him--what none of them can bear--that before the Australians came to deal with them they had no such thing as ready money transactions, for the reason that there was no ready money amongst them.

Saturday, 4. --This morning, as soon as we had breakfast, we got on board and under weigh. We got out before sunset, but then the wind fell, and we made no progress during the night.

Thus ends the record of these few wanderings in New Zealand. The following is a copy of some lines found with the journal, and therefore not inappropriate as a closing paragraph: --