1849 - McKillop, H. F. Reminiscences of Twelve Months' in New Zealand [Fac. ed. Capper, 1973] - CHAPTER III. THE BREAK-UP OF THE CAMP... p 128-166

       
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  1849 - McKillop, H. F. Reminiscences of Twelve Months' in New Zealand [Fac. ed. Capper, 1973] - CHAPTER III. THE BREAK-UP OF THE CAMP... p 128-166
 
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CHAPTER III. THE BREAK-UP OF THE CAMP...

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BREAK-UP OF THE CAMP.

CHAPTER III.

THE BREAK-UP OF THE CAMP--EMBARKATION OF THE TROOPS--FALSE ALARM AT PUKUTUTU'S PAH--RETURN TO THE "CALLIOPE"--REMARKS IN THE AUCKLAND PAPER--HARD CASE OF A SETTLER AT THE BAY OF ISLANDS -- DEPARTURE FROM THE BAY OF ISLANDS, AND ARRIVAL AT AUCKLAND--BALL GIVEN BY THE INHABITANTS -- NEWS OF DISTURBANCES IN THE SOUTHERN SETTLEMENTS--MINERAL PRODUCTIONS-- FLAX AND DYES.

THE break-up of the camp at Ruapekapeka was rendered a melancholy scene, through the burial of poor fellows who lost their lives there. Their comrades were first consulted as to their having any wish to move the bodies down to Kororarika churchyard, but they requested they might be interred where they had fallen. Few, if any,

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BREAK-UP OF THE CAMP.

were sorry that the affair was ended, as there was but little comfort during this campaign; the scarcity of water being in itself a most unpleasant evil, particularly as every one had to sleep in his clothes; and from sitting over damp wood fires the skin became very much discoloured, and it required rather a larger portion of water to cleanse one than could be procured for ten people. The wounded men were brought down in cots slung on long poles, and embarked at once on board the Castor.

The whole force halted one night at Pukututu's, encamping round the pah; and, being fine weather, it was a cheerful sight to see such a variety of costumes for so small a force, and such good feeling displayed by the several services to each other--not excluding our gallant band of native allies, who were in great repute at the watch-fires. The shouts of their war-songs were to be heard in chorus with many an old English ballad from the

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FALSE ALARM.

soldiers, as well as the "fore-bitter" (Jack's song) of our own people.

The next day was spent in embarking the heavy guns, troops, stores, &c, leaving a strong guard with our party. It was nearly dark when the guard left us to march down to another place of embarkation, a few miles nearer the ship; and we were to leave our post in an hour or two, but were prevented by an alarm being given, by some of our native allies, that Heki and his party were close to us, evidently intending to attack our stockade, and would be on us in a few minutes. At this time we had only forty men, and no field-piece, the one which had been stationed there having been embarked that day. We immediately sent a messenger after the guard of soldiers who had just left us, requesting they would return and reinforce us; and in the mean time making such preparations as we best could for holding the place against such a very

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FALSE ALARM.

superior force, it having been reported that he had 500 men with him, all smarting under the late loss of their pah, the out-manoeuvring being a bitter pill for them. The troops soon returned, much to our satisfaction; and we then felt secure that, however many of the enemy came, they could not force an entrance without a very great loss, if at all, as we had men enough to line our whole stockade--about 150. We waited anxiously until it was quite dark, and then, seeing no sign of them, we made ourselves snug for the night the best way we could, with such fare as we could collect, warning our sentries to keep a sharp look-out, in case of an attempted surprise. We mustered under arms an hour before daylight the next morning, that being the most likely time for them to come, if they did at all. However, it turned out that such was not their intention, for they had passed on, and taken up their quarters at a neighbouring pah.

We all reached the ships unmolested, after an

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COLONIAL ACCOMPLISHMENTS.

absence of five weeks, during which time we had become quite colonial--an expression very common both in New South Wales and New Zealand, and means that we had learned how to sleep in the bush with a blanket round us, smoke a pipe before breakfast, dispense entirely with shaving and very nearly with washing, cook our own dinners, wash our clothes, occasionally sit over a damp wood fire without crying (a feat which, by-the-bye, takes a few days to learn), build a ware or hut, paddle a canoe without upsetting, and say Cawpie the maori, "very good the native!"-- with which accomplishments, we were supposed to be quite eligible for the colony. During our absence from the ship, those on board had been employed principally in bringing our supplies up to the pah, but on several occasions had had a day or two's chace in the boats after whale-ships, supposed to be trying to land powder for the natives. We had at this time blockaded the Bay of Islands, much to the in-

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TRAFFIC IN POWDER FORBIDDEN.

convenience of these whalers as well as other trading vessels; but we knew how much traffic was done in powder, and the Governor having determined that the rebels should not be supplied with that article, prevented them from coming in at all. Since this the introduction of powder has been forbidden by an Act of the Legislative Council, under a very heavy penalty; not only the sale, but giving it away, or bringing it into the colony without a permit. The sale of arms has also been forbidden for the present.

During our short stay at Kororarika, we had frequent visits from our native friends; and it was with evident regret they saw us depart, as they liked the excitement of a campaign very much, and felt proportionably stupid now that it was over. We took the wounded natives round to Auckland in the Castor--that is, those who specially required medical treatment. One of the wounded maories of Kawiti's tribe was a prisoner amongst

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REMARKS OF

them, and evidently thought at first that the probing the wound was done to torture him. I believe he never recovered: had he done so he would have been set free.

I give an extract from a colonial paper, to show the opinion of the press as to our proceedings. None of them, indeed, have been lavish in their praise of those who have had the unpleasant duty of fighting their battles, paltry as they may appear. Some one or two fulsome paragraphs have appeared from time to time, but they were too glaring to be received except with the ridicule they deserved.

EXTRACT FROM THE "NEW ZEALANDER."

"Saturday, January 24, 1846.

"'Be just, and fear not.
Let all the ends thou aim'st at he thy country's,
Thy God's, and truth's.'

"We announced in our last publication the arrival of his Excellency Governor Grey from the seat of war on the morning of Saturday last, and the intelligence that Kawiti and

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THE AUCKLAND PRESS.

Heki had been driven from the pah of Ruapekapeka, which was subsequently destroyed.

"On Saturday evening the Government Gazette appeared, containing despatches from Colonel Despard to Governor Grey, detailing the recent operations of the combined forces in the neighbourhood of the Bay of Islands. The Gazette of last Saturday was published on Monday morning, in a second edition. On Wednesday last the Government republished the Gazette, with two additional despatches from Colonel Despard, dated the 9th and 14th of January; and we have this day republished the whole of these documents.

"The despatches are prefaced by a notification from the Colonial Secretary, by his Excellency's command, that these operations have 'resulted in a series of successes which must produce the most beneficial consequences to this portion of her Majesty's dominions.' With this introduction, it might be anticipated that the despatches would detail brilliant ac-

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REMARKS OF

tions and skilful tactics. The actual result of the present campaign in the northern district, more especially that Kawiti and Heki are now suing for peace, is certainly a source of great satisfaction, however fortuitously it may have been brought about; but the manner in which possession was gained of Kawiti's pah did not, in our opinion, justify the lengthened, pompous, commendatory despatch of Colonel Despard, in which a mere casualty of the defenders--being at prayers without the pah, enabling our troops and allies to enter unperceived and unmolested--is termed 'the capture of a fortress of extraordinary strength by assault, and nobly defended by a brave and determined enemy.' We consider, therefore, that a plain unvarnished narrative of the facts, from authentic sources, will be acceptable to our readers.

"It appears that on the 1st of January the British forces established themselves in a strong stockade in the middle of a wood, distant

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THE AUCKLAND PRESS.

about 400 yards from the pah of Kawiti, and in which, subsequently, were mounted two 32-pounders and four small 5 1/2-inch mortars; and, the wood in front of the guns being cut down, the western face of the pah was exposed to their fire. On the 2nd inst. Kawiti made a sortie from his pah, for the purpose of turning the flank of this stockade, and destroying it before it was finished; but Nene and our allies drove them back, killing four and wounding several of the enemy. The British troops were not engaged in this affair, at the particular desire of the loyal native chiefs.

"After this sally from the pah, another small stockade, but more advanced, about 160 yards from the pah, was erected, mounting one 18-pounder and one 12-pound howitzer, for the purpose of destroying the south-west angle of the pah. The main camp was distant about half a mile from the pah, situated on a ridge surrounded on all sides by thick woods. In front

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REMARKS OF

of the camp were three guns, with an apparatus for throwing rockets.

"On Saturday, the 10th inst., all the batteries being completed, a general fire was commenced from the whole of them, for the purpose of effecting a breach; and rockets were likewise discharged, in order to annoy the enemy within the pah. Towards evening the outer works evinced the effects of the guns, and three breaches were made. An assault was then contemplated by the commanding officer, and 200 of the troops were told off to lead the attack. During the afternoon a great number of the natives had been seen from the battery to enter stealthily the pah in small parties; and it was very clear that the natives within the pah were considerably reinforced, and also that they were well prepared, and anticipating an assault. The chief Mohai Tawai remonstrated with the commanding officer, asserting that it would be sacrificing the lives of brave men to attempt the assault

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THE AUCKLAND PRESS.

on that evening, and that by continuing the breaching the object would be accomplished in a few days. The troops were then ordered back to the camp.

"On the following morning, Sunday, the 11th, about twelve of Nene's natives, with William Walker, his brother, approached the breaches to reconnoitre, and not perceiving or hearing any natives within the stockades of the pah, they entered; and as soon as they found they were unopposed, conveyed signals to our forces in the batteries, when the sailors and troops rushed forward in the pah, before Kawiti's natives, who were outside the pah, engaged at their karakia (worship), could re-enter. As soon as they ascertained that they had thus by negligence lost possession of their stronghold, they commenced a heavy fire on our troops from the woods and from the back part of the pah; but the numerical strength of the European forces and native allies, in addition to the protection afforded by the internal defences of

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REMARKS OF

the pah, rendered all attempts unavailing; and if our troops and seamen had remained within the pah, instead of rushing out to contend with the natives in the woods, very few casualties would have occurred. After continuing the fire in order to carry off their killed and wounded, the natives retired into the woods to a pah about three miles distant, recently erected by Heki (who joined Kawiti on Saturday afternoon) as a place of refuge for Kawiti in case he should be expelled from Ruapekapeka. The loss of the European forces was twelve killed, of which number nine were seamen and marines--and thirty wounded, inclusive of seventeen seamen and marines. The native rebels suffered a loss of twenty-five killed, as correctly as it could be ascertained. Within the pah no ammunition or provisions were found. The former had been divided among them on the Saturday evening, anticipating the attack; and they had been subsisting on fern-root alone for some time previ-

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THE AUCKLAND PRESS.

ously. His Excellency Governor Grey was present during the whole of the operations, and was eye-witness to this anomalous assault on an enemy's fortification which had no enemy within it; 'the extraordinary strength of which in its interior defences--every hut being a complete fortress in itself, and the whole stockaded all round with heavy timbers, with a strong embankment behind them,'-- enabled the combined European and native forces, above one thousand men, to keep out the original native possessors, in numbers not exceeding four hundred fighting men.

"In the brigade order of the 11th January, it is stated that 'the capture of a fortress of such extraordinary strength by assault, and nobly defended by a brave and determined enemy, is of itself sufficient to prove the intrepidity and gallantry of all concerned.' And Colonel Despard, in his despatch to his Excellency on the following day, remarks, that as Governor Grey was an eye-witness

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REMARKS OF

to all the operations, and likewise actively engaged in the assault of the fortress, it might be considered unnecessary to particularise those individuals who conspicuously distinguished themselves; but he feels so much satisfaction in recording his obligations, that he perseveres in immortalising twenty-one individuals, and lastly his Excellency himself participates in the lavish applause. On this occasion we fear that the drummers and fifers will feel themselves deprived of their laurels in this assault, from the omission of a paragraph complimentary of their services.

"That praise and promotion should be awarded in the highest degree and to the fullest extent for meritorious services, no one will deny; but care should be taken that justice is strictly and impartially rendered to all, and that no omissions are made in the commendatory list. That the whole of the officers and troops have individually endured

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THE AUCKLAND PRESS.

great privations and most arduous duties, in a warfare quite novel, in a country perhaps unequalled as to difficulty in military operations, and with an enemy fierce, wily, and courageous exceeding anticipation, there cannot exist a difference of opinion; and for the devotion, zeal, and bravery evinced by all, whether seamen, marines, troops of the line, artillery of the H.E.I.C.'s service, or the Auckland volunteer militia, all are deserving of the highest praise and the grateful thanks of every settler in New Zealand.

"But however fortunately these events have come to pass, we have the greatest pleasure in announcing to our readers that they have occasioned serious overtures of peace from Heki and Kawiti. On Saturday last Heki and Kawiti went to Pomare's pah at the head of the koratu; but that wily chief would not admit them, for fear of implicating himself, and incurring the censure and punishment of the Governor. They sent to Nene, requesting

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REMARKS OF

him to meet them, in order to convey to the Governor their request for peace. Nene would neither go to them nor suffer them to come to him, but deputed his brother, William Waka, to receive their communication. Being convinced that they are really sincere in their desire for a termination of hostilities, Nene has come to Auckland in the Victoria, with the concurrence of the other friendly chiefs in alliance with him, to acquaint his Excellency of the submission of Heki and Kawiti, and to intercede in their behalf. The two rebel chiefs throw themselves wholly on the mercy of his Excellency, resigning all their lands, and leaving it entirely to him to dictate the terms on which peace and order are to be established at the northern part of the island. We understand that his Excellency does not intend to deprive Heki and Kawiti of their lands, or to make them an appendage to the property of the Crown. We consider this to be most wise policy; and

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THE AUCKLAND PRESS.

its moral effect on the minds of the natives throughout the islands will be great and beneficial, as it will prove that the Queen does not take up arms and carry on wars for the purpose of depriving the natives of their lands and properties, but to enforce submission to the laws.

"If our loyal allies are anxious that the rebels should be spared further punishment, and are also well assured that their present submission is sincere, and attributable to the effect and proof recently given to them, that the Queen will not allow insult to her flag, or robbery and outrage to her subjects, to pass with impunity; then we consider it would be no less consistent with justice than with mercy at once to grant full pardon, and obliterate the past. We learn that Nene will return immediately to the Bay of Islands, and that peace will soon be permanently established in that district. The blockade will be removed from the northern parts on the 1st of February, and

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UNFAIRNESS OF

the customs re-established. Two hundred troops will remain there, with the Racehorse and Osprey men-of-war."

The foregoing leading article, coming out immediately after the first successful expedition which had been made against the rebels, and so soon after the arrival of his Excellency Captain Grey, who was so popular with all those who had served with him, did not incline us to think very favourably of the colonial press, which we certainly did not expect would pick our deeds to pieces, putting the worst construction on such weakness as it would have shown their good sense to have passed over in silence; for when we take it into consideration that such a large colonial force might have been formed, if we take the numbers who were physically capable of bearing arms, it seems to me that, out of compliment to the gallant little band who so nobly came forward from amongst the many, and

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THE COLONIAL PRESS.

who were so deservedly highly spoken of by Colonel Despard under the denomination of Pioneers, they might have been as sparing of their remarks as they had been of their assistance. The successes had not been so numerous, or the hardships so trifling, that a commanding officer could afford to lose an opportunity of cheering the spirits of his almost worn-out followers by such praise as their perseverance under the most trying circumstances had warranted,

Every preparation was now made for leaving this truly beautiful spot, in which we had experienced two months of the most delightful weather that I have ever enjoyed in any part of the world. I can scarcely fancy a place possessing more attractions than the country round this bay. It possesses everything to recommend it as a settlement; the forests abounding in magnificent timber growing within a reasonable distance from the sea, rendering the embarkation of it a matter of little labour. And to

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HARD CASE OF

show the good opinion that those who had chosen this as their residence had of the place, I will mention the case of Mr. Wright, one of the early settlers, who had for a number of years roughed it, as all other settlers must, and had just begun to reap the reward of his labour and industry; having successfully cultivated the growth of some of the choicest of European fruits, as well as the stock of a good kitchen-garden, besides raising the more necessary farm stock of grain; which, with a few head of cattle, and a well filled poultry yard, premised fair, in a year or two, to rival some of our English pet farms. Things had reached this happy stage, when the unfortunate flag-staff war gave an opportunity to the malicious John Heki to vent his rage on this unoffending family--first by stealing the horses, which I have mentioned elsewhere, and lastly by burning down the house and the best of the fruit-trees, of which the old man was so justly proud; rooting up every-

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AN ENGLISH SETTLER.

thing in the garden, and, in fact, undoing in a few short hours all that had taken so many years of patience and hard work to accomplish. However, in spite of this, after everything became comparatively quiet again in that immediate neighbourhood, he took up his residence at the same spot, built another house, and, when we left, was going over the same ground which he had so successfully trodden years before; and looked forward cheerfully, notwithstanding the disheartening results of his former work, to again being surrounded with those comforts which had so cruelly been wrested from him. He spoke in the most glowing terms of the climate and the productiveness of the place, and expressed his regret that so few English ships visited the bay of late years, the whale-fishery and other trade being nearly exclusively carried on by the Americans.

When Captain Cook visited New Zealand, he appears to have formed the highest opinion

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ARRIVAL AT AUCKLAND.

of the harbour and resources of the Bay of Islands, and mentions that it is particularly adapted for the establishment of a colony; and, should Great Britain ever turn her attention to this country, that this neighbourhood, or the banks of the Thames, possesses more attractions as a settlement than any other part of the Islands. The same great navigator seems to have appreciated the fish found in such abundance, both here and in the harbours and bays in Cook's Straits.

We left the Bay of Islands on the 19th of January, in company with the Castor and North Star, for Auckland, leaving the Racehorse in the bay. The ill-fated Osprey had left previously for Hookiengia, from whence she never returned. We had a delightful passage, and were the first ship of the three that arrived. We landed the troops which we brought round with us, and commenced provisioning. Next day the Castor and North Star made their appearance, and all our boats

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AUCKLAND HARBOUR.

were employed disembarking the troops. We had to land them up to their waists in water-there being no convenience in the shape of a wharf or quay available for this purpose, except at high water. The Auckland newspaper gives the following description of the harbour, which is but too true:--

"Our port is our disgrace: it is a mere anchorage, however excellent its holding ground. There is no facility for the landing of goods: on the contrary, serious expense and frequent damage occur to merchandise in its transit from the vessel to the warehouse of the merchant. Auckland, with very great natural capabilities, has notoriously the worst shipping accommodation of any port in the Australian seas. As for watering, there exists no means of supplying the necessities of the pettiest sloop: ships of war have to proceed elsewhere; and merchantmen fritter away their time, venting blessings on a spot where apathy is the dominant feature. Contrast this deli-

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BALL AT AUCKLAND.

ciency of provision of the limpid element, in a town remarkable for its abundance, with the admirable facility with which it can be obtained at Sydney and Hobart Town--both places, Sydney in especial, proverbial for limited sources of supply--and the callousness to the interest of the shipping and the port becomes positively calamitous."

The day after the arrival of the Castor, H. M. steam sloop Driver came in from China. She had been expected for upwards of two months, but had been obliged to put back to Singapore after coming some considerable distance, having sustained serious damage in a typhoon in the China sea. She had been five years in commission, and was in a very dilapidated state, little calculated for service on this boisterous coast. Soon after her arrival we were entertained at a ball, given to us by the liberal inhabitants of the infant capital, which took place at a large room built for the purpose, adjoining the hotel, which place was

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BALL AT AUCKLAND.

gaily decorated with the flags of all nations, sent from the different ships, and presented a very pretty appearance. The band of the 58th regiment attended, and afforded a good opportunity, to those who were lucky enough to find partners, of renewing their acquaintance with the almost forgotten accomplishment of dancing. There was a plentiful supply of everything but ladies, who were very scarce, there being at least twenty gentlemen to one lady. Our entertainers, however, endeavoured by every means in their power to atone for this unfortunate deficiency, by supplying abundance of champagne and every other luxury, which, with the newness of the polka, introduced by us, caused great hilarity, and many a step and figure was danced that night which was never taught at any fashionable dancing academy. We kept it up till daylight, pleasantly enough, with the exception of a round or two being fought between the manager of the ball committee and

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BALL AT AUCKLAND.

the landlord of the premises, who had fallen out: the former not approving of the equality and fraternal system adopted by the latter, which gave great offence to this free-minded advocate of colonial liberty, who could ill brook being told that his presence was intrusive. The distinctions of society, so respected in England, are treated with truly republican contempt in New Zealand.

After the company had dispersed, we of the navy, not being able to procure beds on shore, or boats to take us off, dismantled the walls, and wrapped ourselves in the colours of the various nations, and lay down on the floor and benches in the ball-room to get a few hours' sleep, which we did very comfortably. Happening to awake first, I was much amused with the ridiculous appearance the several sleepers presented in their various adopted banners: one of them had the lion of England grinning fiercely at his heels, which protruded from beneath the folds of the Stan-

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EPSOM.

dard; another having his head illuminated by the stars of America, the stripes of that free and enlightened nation giving him the appearance of a red-striped zebra. We soon shook ourselves clear of the bunting, and demanded a large supply of soda-water; after which we were glad to cool ourselves by taking a swim in the harbour, before we proceeded to join a cricket and skittle party at Epsom, about three miles from Auckland. There is a good road to Epsom, which place, however, only existed on the map, the inn being then the only house built in this intended village. Here we found a substantial dejeuner a la fourchette; after which we managed, with cricket, foot races, and skittles, to spend a very pleasant day, and returned to town pretty well done up with our amusements.

We found out, when we got on board, that we were to proceed in the ship the next day to Waihekie Bay, about twenty miles off,

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THE TOWN OF AUCKLAND.

for water. We accordingly made the best of our time to see all we could of the town. There are a great many very nice residences at Auckland, prettily situated, facing the sea; being mostly one-storied houses, with verandahs, and at this time of year (January) beautifully decorated with creepers. Some of the gardens are as good as any I have ever seen.

The government house, which has since unfortunately been burnt down, was a handsome building and prettily situated, and is said to have cost fifteen thousand pounds. The church, standing on a small hill quite close to the sea, gives the town a finished appearance. I believe I ought to call it a cathedral, Auckland being the residence of the Bishop, who does not, however, devote more time to it than to the more out-of-the-way parts of his diocese. Owing to the want of roads, he is obliged to travel in a small yacht, in which way he repeatedly visits every portion of his extensive and wild diocese. There are good substantial

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FISHING EXPEDITION.

barracks built on the hill within the government domain, where we met a great many natives selling their potatoes and fish to the soldiers; we also saw them hawking these goods about the streets. The fish seemed very plentiful and of an excellent quality; large canoes frequently came alongside of us, loaded with harbuka, a fish resembling our salmon and frequently weighing twenty pounds: our men used to barter tobacco for them, by which means they procured capital bargains. The harbour-master came on board and took us down to Waihekie, to the watering-place, where we found a capital stream running into the sea: part of the crew were immediately set to work filling the casks and watering the ship, whilst another party took the nets and went in search of fish, which we were told were very plentiful hereabouts. I accompanied the fishing party. We found a native pah close to the beach where we landed; and the maories, seeing our nets in the boat, came out to see the sport.

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FISHING EXPEDITION.

There was a white man amongst them, who was much tatooed about the face--the only one I ever met thus disfigured; he was married to the chiefs daughter, and looked upon by the tribe as one of themselves.

I strongly suspect his tale of shipwreck, which was badly told, was not the real cause of his finding his way amongst them. He had evidently visited Sydney for "his country's good," and absconded from thence in some whale-ship. The first time we hauled the net, it was as full as it could be of the greatest variety of fish I have ever seen together-- none of them large; there were about a dozen of the small sea-horses, which kept moving about very gracefully when set afloat again. We filled the boat with such of the fish as we deemed palatable, and gave our maori companions the remainder. They had all joined in the hauling, and seemed much amused at the singing which the men kept up to march to in drawing in the fish; and soon

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THREATENED INSURRECTION.

caught up the cry of "Lots of fish!" calling out "Plots of phish!" in endeavouring to imitate us. We returned to the ship with our acceptable cargo, and found that she had been completed with water during our absence.

The next morning at daylight we got under weigh and returned to Auckland, where we heard that news had been received from the Southern district of threatened disturbances between the settlers and natives, which would make it necessary to send a force to Port Nicholson immediately. We re-embarked the troops, having received a reinforcement from Sydney of a few artillery, sent out expressly for service in this colony. The Governor embarked on board the Driver; and the North Star parted company, being homeward bound, after three years' service on this station, taking with her the good wishes of all. The Elphinstone also left us for India, taking a mail to be sent home overland via Bombay. Before leaving, his Excellency the

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PROCLAMATION OP PARDON.

Lieut.-Governor issued a proclamation pardoning such of the natives as had been lately in arms against us in the North, who would swear allegiance to the Queen, and express their sorrow at their misconduct. The principal chief of the rebel party, Kawiti, was one of the first to accept these terms, and has never since given the least trouble: not so the civilised John Heki, who has still the same aversion to his Christian brethren which he has always shewn, and, had he sufficient influence amongst his own people, would be a most dangerous neighbour to the settlers in the Bay of Islands. As it is, he has caused them much anxiety; and were it not that he is kept in check by Tommy Waka and his gallant followers, we should have to keep a large force at Kororarika for the protection of the place.

On the morning of the 4th of February we left Auckland, and the weather being fine, had a beautiful view of the various islands lying

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MINERAL PRODUCTIONS.

at the entrance of the river, some of which are rich in mineral productions, which, however, are not confined to these islands; coal, iron, limestone, copper, tin, manganese, nickel, lead, silver, bismuth, arsenic, cerium, sulphur, alum, rock salt, marble of various qualities and colours, cobalt, ochre, fuller's earth, asphaltum, pumice, volcanic earths and lavas, being found in many parts of the colony.

The New Zealand flax is another valuable production, which flourishes spontaneously in the greatest abundance: any person can have it for the cutting. Until very lately the natives have been the only people who have succeeded in preparing any quantity, but their method of scraping it with a shell is a very slow process, besides wasting three-fourths of the fibre. Mr. Cator, of Wellington, tried several experiments in preparing this useful plant, and was perfectly successful; and at present a large quantity of rope made from it is exported to Sydney, and many

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FLAX.

hundred fathoms of whale line are made, to supply the whale-ships and stations on the coast of New Zealand; there are also establishments for making sacks and woolpacks, which are a great saving to the colony. The natives make very handsome mats, by beating the flax out with a piece of wood, and plaiting the border very ingeniously by hand. The dyes which they use are also the productions of their own country. The tanekaha tree yields a black or brown dye, and the tuhuhi a blue-black dye from the wood and bark, as does the mako; the whakou also yields a handsome blue. Some of their best mats sell for 5l, the borders of which are really astonishingly coloured and prettily blended.

The following is a copy of a deed of purchase from the natives, showing the nature of the payments made by purchasers of land, as well as the articles most prized by the owners of the soil, who have, however, of late

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NATIVE DEED OF PURCHASE.

years learnt to prize £. s. d. more than merchandise, having now become clever in making their own bargains with hard cash. Some few of them hoard their money, but generally they spend it advantageously.

"Know all men by these presents, that we, the undersigned chiefs of the harbour and district of Wanga- Nui-Atera, commonly called Port Nicholson, in Cook's Straits, in New Zealand, do say and declare, that we are the sole and only proprietors or owners of the lands, tenements, woods, bays, harbours-streams, and creeks within certain boundaries, as shall be truly detailed in this deed or instrument. Be it therefore known unto all men, that we, the chiefs whose names are signed to this deed or instrument, have this day sold and parted with all our right, title, and interest in all the said lands, tenements, woods, bays, harbours, rivers, streams, and creeks, as shall be hereafter described, unto

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NATIVE

William Wakefield, Esq., in trust for the governors, directors, and shareholders of the New Zealand Land Company of London, their heirs, administrators, and assigns, for ever, in consideration of having received as a full and just payment for the same one hundred red blankets, one hundred muskets, two tierces of tobacco, forty-eight iron pots, two cases of soap, fifteen fowling-pieces, twenty-one kegs of gunpowder, one cask of ball-cartridges, one keg of lead slabs, one hundred cartouche-boxes, one hundred tomahawks, forty pipe tomahawks, one case of pipes, two dozen spades, fifty steel axes, twelve hundred fish-hooks, twelve bullet-moulds, twelve dozen shirts, twenty jackets, twenty pairs of trowsers, sixty red nightcaps, three hundred yards of cotton duck, two hundred yards of calico, one hundred yards of check, twenty dozen pocket-handkerchiefs, two dozen slates and two hundred pencils, ten dozen looking-glasses, ten dozen pocket-knives, ten dozen pairs of scissors,

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DEED OF PURCHASE.

one dozen pair of shoes, one dozen umbrellas, one dozen hats, two pounds of beads, one hundred yards of ribbon, one gross of Jews'-harps, one dozen razors, ten dozen dressing-combs, six dozen hoes, two suits of superfine clothes, one dozen shaving-boxes and brushes, twenty muskets, two dozen adzes, one dozen sticks of sealing-wax; which we, the aforesaid chiefs, do hereby acknowledge to have been received by us."

Then follow the names and description of the lands purchased, which is all made over and signed by seventeen chiefs, and witnessed in due form by two Europeans and one native. I must apologise for introducing this here, but as we were bound for the Cook's Strait settlement, which we had always been given to understand had been taken possession of without indemnifying the natives, who had otherwise been badly treated by the settlers, we found it a constant topic of discussion amongst those who pretended to know any-

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WELLINGTON.

thing about the colony. Most of us had imbibed the prevailing prejudice at Auckland, and were fully prepared to meet people who had purchased a large district for a few casks of rum and tobacco, and who were anxiously courting a war with the natives in hopes of exterminating them. We were, however, agreeably surprised on finding a much more substantial class of people than we had hitherto met, who, we had every reason to believe, paid a fair price for their possessions, and traded liberally with the natives, exchanging the articles mentioned in the foregoing deed for native produce and labour; fire-arms being the only objectionable item, which, however, the Government had previously trafficked with largely in the purchase of lands in the northern district.


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