1904 - Campbell, R. Reminiscences of a Long Life in Scotland, New Zealand - VOYAGE TO THE WEST INDIES, p 12-20

       
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  1904 - Campbell, R. Reminiscences of a Long Life in Scotland, New Zealand - VOYAGE TO THE WEST INDIES, p 12-20
 
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VOYAGE TO THE WEST INDIES.

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VOYAGE TO THE WEST INDIES.

With the blue above, and the blue below,
And silence wheresoe'r I go.

I HAD decided to go another trip in the good ship Chieftain--this time bound for the West Indies. We made a start on Thursday, 26th May, 1843, and were towed to the Tail of the Bank by the steamer Defiance, and weighed anchor on Saturday, 28th. We came to the same night in Rothesay Bay, and lay there till Thursday, 2nd June, when we again weighed anchor and proceeded to sea. We had baffling winds till Sunday, when we got a breeze that took us clear of land--Tory Island, on the north-west coast of Ireland, being the last bit of Great Britain we saw.

Friday, 10th. --We spoke the barque Kilblain, of Greenock (lat. 49. 46 N., long. 20 W.), from Bombay, bound for Liverpool. Same afternoon we spoke a Belgian brig bound for Antwerp, from Rio de Janiero, eighty days out.

Saturday, 11th. --A fresh breeze from the southward. We were employed till midnight, alternately taking in and letting out sail.

Sunday, 12th. --A light breeze and a sail in sight, standing to the eastward.

Monday, 13th. --Fresh breeze and heavy showers of rain. Same weather till

Monday, 29th, when we had a nice breeze and fair weather. At 2 p. m. a ship hove in sight; at 4 p. m. found her to be the Robert Irsie, of New York, outward bound with Irish passengers. Same day sighted one of the Western Islands (on the weather bow) called Floris. We tacked ship to go to windward of it.

Thursday, 23rd. --Caught a porpoise, out of which we got about a gallon of oil. I shall give a description of this animal or fish--it may be useful to some of you. It is more of an animal than a fish, being warm-blooded, and bringing forth its

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young alive. It is likewise obliged to come to the surface to breathe. It has a long snout, and varies from 5 to 7 feet in length, while it has two holes in the crown of its head for breathing purposes. Its inside resembles that of a pig, and the flesh is coarse, but eats well if properly cooked.

Friday, 24th. --We saw a few flying fish. They are about the size of a herring, and can fly from fifty to sixty yards, or just until their wings dry, when they fall into the water again. A shark showed himself alongside, and in a short time he was hooked and brought aboard, he was a young one, of the blue species, and measured 8ft. 3in. from the snout to the tail.

Thursday, 30th. --A brig appeared in sight. We kept away to speak, but on nearing us she kept off to avoid us. We hoisted our ensign; she followed suit, showing herself to be a Portuguese. Her decks were covered with men. At the same time we saw a brig standing the same way, with all sail set. We bore down to speak, but she kept on her course, although within half-a-mile of us. She signalled, however, and we found her to be a transport ship of war in pursuit of the brig, which we supposed to be a slaver or a pirate.

July 2nd. --A sail in sight on the starboard bow, going to the north-west. We've had a fine breeze and warm weather for the last eight days. Employed rattling down and tarring the rigging.

July 3rd. --Wrote to my wife the following letter: --

Ship Chieftain,
July 3rd, 1842.

MY DEAR WIFE,

It is Sabbath, and I hope you are enjoying that great blessing which God hath bestowed on sinful man--the Sabbath Day. I also trust that yon enjoy the privilege of going to church, and when there that you remember him who is far away from you upon the restless ocean, and who has not the privilege of meeting with the people of God in His house on Sunday. Although I have not that blessing, I am not left without instances of reflection on the Great Creator of the Universe. When I look round me in the morning, in the evening, or at midnight, I can see objects for deep thought. In the morning I see the sun rise out of the waters, and darting his rays of light through the dark clouds that hide the face of Heaven as with a curtain. How beautiful it is to behold the mountain tops on a summer's morning bespangled with the

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dews of Heaven, or to hear the birds sing in the woods, or see the lambs skip in the grassy meadows! Alas! how different is all at sea. It is true we see the sun rise in all his splendour, but no matter how far we look, we see nothing but the dark blue waters beneath us, and the sky over our heads. We look back to see whence we came, but there is no track left; we look forward--there is no opening for the eye to perceive the destined port. On right, on left, it is all the same--all is obscured from our vision. There is no music save the shrill whistle of the wind and the hoarse roar of the foaming billows, and we must toss about and take the weather as it is given us. How like the fate of man on earth. He is, as it were, planted there, and he knoweth nothing. He looks round, and he knows not whence became, and none can tell him whither he shall return. Yet he has a voyage to make in this life, be it smooth and prosperous, or rough and adverse. He likewise has a certain course to steer, a certain Book of Directions to abide by, deviating from which he will surely perish. All may be considered as the work of a day. Time is short--therefore improve it; for--

"Life is but a summer's day;
Some only break their fast, and then away;
Others stay dinner, and depart full fed,
The longest life but sups, and goes to bed."

Your Loving Husband,
R. CAMPBELL.


Sunday, 10th. --A brig in sight on the starboard bow. 4 p. m. --The Island of Guadaloupe in sight, distant about fifteen miles, being first land sighted of the West Indies. This island is the most important of the French possessions in the West Indies. Part of it is low, and of coral formation. The other portion is traversed by volcanic mountains--the highest being La Soufriere ("The Sulphur Mine.") Somewhere about 5,497 feet, earthquakes are of frequent occurrence. Sugar and coffee are exported. It was discovered by Columbus in 1493, but was not colonised by the French till 1635. Although it repeatedly fell into the hands of England during her wars with France, it was finally ceded to the latter country in 1816.

Monday, 11th. --At daylight a schooner in sight going to the northward; also the Island of Antagua on the starboard bow. 8 a. m. --A brig standing to northward, and a barque to the southward. A small island in sight, name unknown. All hands employed painting the inside of the ship, from the truck to the deck.

Tuesday, 12th. --All hands got a glass of grog for the first

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time since we entered the West Indies. We got it, I suppose, because a man got sick painting in the sun.

Wednesday, 13th. --Finished painting, and no grog.

5 p. m. --The island of San Domingo in sight, and another small one.

Saturday, 16th. --Came in sight of the Island of Jamaica. At 4 p. m. hove to for a pilot, but as none came off, we proceeded under the direction of an old sailor called James. As we rounded Port Royal Point a black pilot came on board. At 6 p. m. we brought up in Port Royal Bay, furled sails, and set the watch.

Sunday, 17th, 5 a. m. --The pilot came on board. We have short, loosed sails, and get ready for the sea breeze, which comes up every morning after breakfast, to take us up to Kingston. 2 p. m. --Brought up in the harbour, furled sails, and put the long-boat out.

Monday, 18th. --Got all ready for going alongside wharf. On Wednesday hauled in to wharf, and began to discharge.

Sabbath, 24th. --Got rigged out and went on shore to have a view of Kingston. It is a fiat place, with narrow, confined streets, and shakily-built houses, raised on piles about two feet from the ground, for fear of being deluged by the rain in the wet season. It has a gaol, Police Court-house, play house, Post Office, and churches in abundance. There is a large square with a chapel on the east side, the theatre on the south, and an English Church on the north, into which I went after rambling about the place for a while. I heard a sermon from the words, "To be carnally minded is death, but to be spiritually minded is life eternal." I next went to the Methodist Chapel. There being no sermon at the time, I got in to look round the building. I went into the school, where I saw a motley group of children of all nations and colours, from the pale-faced Spaniard to the jet black African. The teacher was explaining about Achan stealing the wedge of gold and burying it in his tent. The lesson was taught in a way I did not approve. Had he taught them about humanity and kindness one to another

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from such stories as the Good Samaritan, or Christ raising the widow's son, instead of explaining the methods of stealing, and the terrors of the devil and hell, until they all sat with mouth and eyes distended to the utmost, and their hearts ready to jump out of their places, it would have been more to the purpose. The customs of the people resemble those of the English in many ways. Their head-dress consists chiefly of a handkerchief tied round the head carelessly, and a broad-brimmed straw hat above it. In their walk they are slothful, and unpleasant to look at, with as much pride as a he-goat or a Highland policeman. English people become as bad as the natives for sloth and laziness after living here for any length of time. They lose all conceit of themselves, and have no regard for here or hereafter.

We were busy discharging all the week until Friday, when we hauled out to the roadstead to wait for a cargo. On Wednesday Alex. Smith, one of the sailors, left and joined the magnificent man-of-war guardship at Port Royal, and on Monday the commander came on board and demanded his wages and what clothes he had left. On Tuesday, 2nd Aug., a new second mate (Chas. Fraser) came on board and entered on his duties.

Sabbath, 7th, 10 a. m. --Very warm and sultry, and no sea breeze. 11 a. m. -- Went on board the Tay to go for a walk with the carpenter. 1 p. m. -Went on shore and walked a mile or two, but a fearful thunderstorm came on, and we had to turn and seek shelter. I gave him the letter I had written at sea for my wife.

Tuesday, 9th. --Hauled in to Mr Fotheringham's wharf to discharge stones, and take in a cargo for London.

Wednesday, 10th. --Robert Stuart, cook, knocked off work.

Thursday, 11th. --Took in five casks of sugar.

Friday, 12th. --R. Stuart went to Port Royal and joined the Hornet, man-of-war schooner.

Sabbath, 14th, 5 a. m. --Two hands went in the jolly-boat with the captain and a few friends, including ladies, a pleasure trip to Dockfort, for the purpose of bathing. 10 a. m. --Went

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on board the barque Heart of Oak, and dined with the chief mate, Mr Groundwater. Afterwards went on shore to the barracks, and had a glass of grog with the sergeant-major of the 2nd Royal West India Rifles.

Tuesday, 16th. --The Tay steamer arrived with mails, but no letter for Bob.

Wednesday, 17th. --The Tay sailed for Carthagena, on the Spanish Main.

Thursday, 18th, 9 a. m. --The Hornet came alongside with R. Stuart for his clothes and wages. He got the former, but not the latter. The officer refused to take a draft on P. Denny, of Dumbarton, and said he would send the commander to interview the captain.

Friday, 19th. --Very warm and sultry. Employed stowing sugar and logwood. At 2 p. m. W. Turnbell struck work, being a little tipsy.

Saturday, 20th. --Took on board from the Sarah Ann eight tons of logwood. 4 p. m. --A policeman came on board and took Turnbell to prison.

Sabbath, 21st. --Went on shore to see Turnbell. Was admitted to his cell. Afterwards had a walk in the country. 8 p. m. --Went ashore with supper for Turnbell.

Monday, 2nd. --Took on board five hogsheads of sugar.

Tuesday, 23rd. --Arrived, the Tay from Carthagena. At 7 p. m. went on board her for the carpenter (Wm. Alexander), the 2nd engineer (Mr Henry), the 2nd steward (Alex. Lindsay), and brought them on board the Chieftain by the mate's orders. We had a jovial time with Scotch songs, &c, until the cocks began to crow.

Wednesday, 24th. --Aching heads and no cure. 6 a. m. -- Was ordered in the jolly-boat to take a lady and gentleman to Dockfort for a pleasure trip, for which my mate and I got one shilling each.

Thursday, 25th. --Employed turning in and seizing afresh the main rigging. 7 p. m. --Went on board the Tay with a letter for Home. The mate accompanied me, and we spent a

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pleasant time with the former-mentioned gentlemen, returning to our ship at midnight, "as tight as daisies."

Friday, 26th. --The Tay sailed for Turk's Island to meet the English mails.

Saturday, 27th. --Employed scraping the quarter deck. After breakfast took in and stowed away six tierces of sugar. After dinner went on board the Ann Isabella smack for 360 cocoa-nuts for stowage.

Sunday, 28th, 6 a. m. --Was roused by the mate asking me if I had heard any one on board during the night, as the fresh beef had disappeared. We were therefore deprived of our Sunday dinner to feed those who were less deserving--or, at least, in less need--than we. At 2 p. m. went on shore to see Bill in the work-house, but could not be admitted without an order from a magistrate.

Monday, 29th --In the forepart of the day I was engaged caulking the jolly-boat; afterwards setting up the fore and main top mast riggings.

Tuesday, 30th. --Got on board four casks of water; afterwards employed scraping and holy-stoning the quarter deck, and various other jobs.

Wednesday, 31st. --Employed painting and varnishing the quarter deck.

Friday, 2nd. --Took on six hogsheads and twenty barrels of sugar. Same day, arrived the Tay with the English mails, but no letter for me. At night went on board the Tay to see some friends.

Thursday, September lst. --Took on board three puncheons of rum and four casks of water.

Saturday, 3rd. --Hauled out to the stream, and got ready to go to Port Anderson to fill up. 2 p. m. --Got under way, and at 4 p. m. brought up in Port Anderson Bay. 8 p. m. -- Went on shore with some quality.

Sunday, 4th. --Went on shore with the captain in the boat to Port Anderson. Afterwards came on board, and moved the ship further from the shore. 2 p. m. --Went on shore and took

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a number of gents to Port Royal, and was handsomely rewarded with a glass of porter for pulling them five or six miles in a breeze of wind.

Tuesday, 6th. --At 3 p. m. the captain came on board and had a row with the mate about a board being off the gangway.

Thursday, 8th. --Got no cargo. Blowing a gale of wind, and raining in torrents.

Saturday, 10th. --Took on 24 puncheons of rum, and three hogsheads and five tierces of sugar.

Sunday, 11th. --Went on shore for the captain, who had been on shore all night, and every night except Wednesday, since we came from Kingston.

Monday, 12th. --No cargo, and the second mate knocked off, being sick.

Tuesday, 13th. --When all hands were knocked up, it was found that the steward had made his escape during the night, with his luggage. 8 a. m. --The second mate went away, pretending sickness, and did not return.

Wednesday, 14th. --A man came on board by the name of William Clark, from the barque Levenside, of Glasgow. Same night Wm. Turnbell came on board with the captain to get his belongings. He had just completed his sentence of twenty-one days in the House of Correction.

Thursday, 15th. --The day appointed for sailing, but the vessel not being full, it was postponed for a few days.

Friday, 16th. --Went in the jolly-boat with the captain, and took W. Turnbell with us to join the barque Ida, of London. Went on board the Alexander, of Liverpool, out of which the skipper shipped two men. We took them on shore, and were to take them to our ship; waited until 4 p. m., and as they did not come then, the captain gave me 2s 6d to get something to eat. Afterwards set sail for Port Henderson, a distance of nine miles.

Saturday, 17th, 8 a. m. --Went to Kingston for the captain and two men. 11 a. m. --Went on board the Alexander and got the men, John Hartie and Hendry. Got money and went on

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shore to buy the sea stock of vegetables. 5 p. m. --Set sail, with two gentlemen, for Port Henderson.

Sunday, 18th. --- After filling up the vessel, went on shore with the stevedore and his crew. Afterwards went on board the Electo, sloop-of-war, and was quite satisfied with the man-of-war service. Saw a young man on board who had been flogged twice in one week. The blood was still trickling down his trousers.

Monday, 19th. --Went to Kingston with the captain, four hands in the boat. After buying a few things we set sail, and took a gentleman to Port Henderson, landing him at the fort called the "Twelve Apostles" (so named on account of having twelve big guns mounted). He gave me a shilling. We went to a tavern to invest it, where I got into conversation with the hostess, and found her to be a descendant of the Campbells of Argyle, her maiden name being Alice Campbell. From her I got many good wishes, and a speedy return to my native country.

Tuesday, 20th. --Got all ready for sea. Got under weigh, and sailed out to Port Royal; brought to and waited for the captain to come on board. At 7 p. m. he came, but went on shore again to Port Royal for a pass.


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