[PREFACE]
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PREFACE.
As I was present when the first settlers arrived in New Zealand, and have seen a good deal of the country in its wild state, I have thought it would not be an unwelcome contribution to the history of the Colony if I committed my impressions to writing; and this is my apology to the reader for appearing in print.
It is not easy for those who come after, and find the country all changed under the presence and constantly-transforming agencies of civilisation, to realise the difficulties with which those had to contend who were the pioneers of the movement, when the country was covered with forest and swamp, when there were no roads, and there was reason to regard with distrust the dispositions of the savage aborigines. The long weary journeys by native tracks are exchanged for a comfortable seat in a stagecoach or a railway-carriage; the bivouac al fresco, for a snug warm bed; hunting after an uncertain duck or pigeon to appease the craving of appetite, for a
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dinner of varieties at an ample board; and the risk of violence to life or property, for the protection of law and order. In these circumstances, it is well to be reminded of the state of matters that existed at the outset; and a feeling of gratitude is suggested in the assurance thereby accorded of the march of improvement. In another century, or perhaps less, the story of the hardships of early adventure may become a tradition of the past, and the traveller may nowhere, outside the regions of ice and snow, encounter any difficulty that has not been smoothed by the progress of civilisation; although I must say I have never, in the primitive days of New Zealand travel, met more discomfort than in traversing some of the oldest countries of Europe, such as Turkey and Greece; and I always felt in greater personal security than I would at the time have done in the former Spanish colonies of South America, where the use of the knife was so prevalent. The reader will find in this narrative an account of matters in the Colony up to date; but my main object has been to recall the early days of the settlement, and preserve some dim record of the state of things immediately before and after.
New Zealand has of late years entered upon a career of great activity and promise by the introduction of railways and public works; already, although her debt is large, she has a greater mileage of railway
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in proportion to population than any other country in the world. The telegraph lines have long been extended to every chief place and district in the islands, and an ocean cable connects the system with Australia and Europe and all parts of the world. News from London of not over two days old is published daily in the colonial newspapers, so that practically the colonists know all that is passing in the rest of the world almost as soon as people in Scotland or Ireland.
Efficient lines of excellent steamers connect the ports of the Colony and keep them in constant communication with one another, while others sail weekly to Melbourne and Sydney.
The population of the Colony is now considerably over 400,000, and the exports and imports amount to about £12,000,000.
The number of sheep breeding on the runs and farms exceeds 12,000,000, being greater than that of the Province of Victoria; and cattle and horses reared are in the same proportion. Certainly the growth of the Colony since 1840, when I first knew it, has been something remarkable.
The settlers are upon the whole of a superior class, and the amount of crime is small. New Zealand has had the good fortune to attract to its shores far more than an average number of first-rate men. At the head of these, both as an early settler
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and as a clergyman, I will place the late Bishop Selwyn. The stamp of his personality impressed itself early and deeply on the character of the Anglican Church in the Colony, and under his episcopate that community rose rapidly in personal worth and political importance.
It may be invidious to particularise other individuals, but I venture to mention the name of the late Mr. Edward Gibbon Wakefield, who was the chief organiser in England of the settlements formed under the auspices of the New Zealand Company. After his arrival in New Zealand his health failed so much that he lived the rest of his days chiefly in retirement; but he has the honour, along with a few others, of having presided at the foundation of the Colony, as well as that of South Australia.
In the matter of science New Zealand has taken a high standing, chiefly through the enlightened exertions, and skilful superintendence, of Dr. Hector, the Director-General of the Geological Survey.
Among the leaders of opinion in the political arena there have been many clever debaters but only one orator. Mr. I. E. Fitzgerald stands alone in that line, and as he has retired from the strife of politics, his name may be mentioned. For the present, it is to be feared that the glory has departed from political life; the deterioration in the personnel
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especially, as in the Australian Colonies generally, is very marked.
Of Governors, New Zealand has already had a long roll, from the naval reigns of Captains Hobson and Fitzroy to the civil and military of Sir George Grey, Sir Thomas Gore Browne, Sir George Grey a second time, Sir George Bowen, Sir James Fergusson, the Marquis of Normanby, and Sir Hercules Robinson.
Governor Hobson was an honest, straightforward sailor. Governor Fitzroy's reign was short and stormy. He was not supported by the Colonial Office, and was succeeded by Sir George Grey, who at that time achieved so high a reputation that he was afterwards chosen to reduce the anarchy of the Cape Colony to order.
Sir Thomas Gore Browne was the first Governor who had to work the representative institutions of the Colony, although a commencement of the new regime had been made under Acting-Governor Lieut.-Colonel Wynyard of H.M. 58th Regiment. Sir Thomas was one of the best Governors that New Zealand has had; but the Colony having got involved in war at Taranaki, the Colonial Office, instead of putting under him two or three regiments, with which he could easily have subdued opposition, thought fit to send Sir George Grey from the Cape, and a small but expensive army.
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The reign of Sir George Bowen was comparatively tranquil, unmarked alike by Maori insubordination and the strife of political party, while the hospitalities of Government House, presided over by Lady Bowen, will always be remembered with pleasure.
Sir James Fergusson's reign was short and uneventful, as he soon resigned his office and went to England.
No Governor has given more satisfaction than the Marquis of Normanby. His long experience in the House of Commons supplied a training which particularly qualified him for the role of a constitutional Governor. He had to parry attacks of peculiar character, directed both against himself and his constitutional position, which he did with the coolness, skill, and address of a practised politician. He is a plain, straightforward, astute English country gentleman, courteous in manner and pleasant to every one.
As Sir Hercules Robinson only landed at Wellington the day before I left, I can say nothing about him from personal experience, but his reputation stands high both as a man and a politician.
Personally I was actively engaged in public life for a considerable period. I undertook in 1862, at Dr. Featherston's request, to make a geological survey of the Province of Wellington, of which he was
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then Superintendent. I was for seven years a member of the Legislative Council, and for twelve and a half years filled the office of Resident Magistrate at Wellington. I mention this to show that my opportunities for observation in regard to the state of the Colony have been considerable, and that my experience, therefore, is entitled to some weight.
Persons who have lived in New Zealand generally become very much attached to it, and I am one of the number. The equable climate and exhilarating atmosphere, the absence of droughts and the rapid growth of vegetation, the splendid scenery and the general healthiness of the country, tend to make life agreeable, and the settlers are upon the whole a very pleasant set of people.
I have selected for purposes of description the most interesting journeys which I made in the Colonies.
I have to express my obligations to Mr. Samuel Deighton, Resident Magistrate at the Chatham Islands, for assistance in introducing figures into my landscape sketches.
EDINBURGH, March 1880.
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[CONTENTS]
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CONTENTS.
OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM SYDNEY TO ADELAIDE IN THE YEARS 1838-39...... 1
FIRST ARRIVAL IN NEW ZEALAND . . . 24
TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND . . . 30
ACROSS THE STRAITS AND BACK . . . -35
FIRST SETTLEMENT AT WELLINGTON . . .. 42
A VOYAGE TO SYDNEY...... 49
A RIDE FROM WELLINGTON TO THE MANAWATU . . 52
A VOYAGE TO ENGLAND ...... 56
RETURN TO NEW ZEALAND IN 1846.--BAY OF ISLANDS, AUCKLAND, AND WELLINGTON . . . 77
A WALK TO THE WAIRARAPA..... 82
A TRIP TO TARANAKI . . . . . 85
JOURNEY TO THE WHANGANUI ..... 90
ON THE WHANGANUI RIVER ..... 95
ON THE WHANGANUI RIVER--(continued) . . . 102
TO LAKE TAUPO AND BACK . . . . . 114
TOPINI ........ 152
RETURN TO WHANGANUI . . . . 166
UP THE MANAWATU RIVER . . . 173
A JOURNEY FROM THE UPPER HUTT TO WAIKANAE . . 183
EXCURSION FROM WHANGANUI TO THE WAITOTARA DISTRICT . . . . . .. 187
JOURNEY TO EXPLORE THE MAIN RANGE OF TARARUA . 191
JOURNEY TO THE NORTHERN PENINSULA OF THE AUCKLAND PROVINCE . . . . . . 207
UP THE WAIKATO AND WAIPA ..... 220
A VISIT TO LAKE COLERIDGE ..... 229
TWO NIGHTS AT MOTUNAU ..... 232
A VISIT TO THE HURUNUI LAKES .... 238
JOURNEY FROM CHRISTCHURCH TO DUNEDIN . . 241
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FROM DUNEDIN TO LAKE WAKATIPU AND INVERCARGILL . 246
INVERCARGILL AND THENCE TO DUNEDIN .. 251
EXCURSION TO TUAPEKA WITH DR. HECTOR ... 255
HAVELOCK AND THE PELORUS SOUND ... 258
A JOURNEY FROM NEW ZEALAND TO TASMANIA AND AUSTRALIA ....... 264
NEW ZEALAND POLITICS ..... 309
THE MAORI LANGUAGE; ITS ORTHOGRAPHY COMPARED. 323
A CHAPTER ON GEOLOGY ..... 337
ON THE ORIGIN, CHARACTER, AND RELIGION OF THE MAORI RACE ...... 347
NEW ZEALAND CONSIDERED PHYSICALLY AND AGRICULTURALLY ....... 357
VOYAGE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO ENGLAND via AMERICA . 370
THE CONQUESTS OF GREAT BRITAIN AND THE BRITISH RACE 436
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
View of Mounts Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, Puke Onake, and Ruapehu ...... Frontispiece.
Miramar, Hataitai Peninsula, Wellington . .. 24
Ferry at Cook's, Manawatu, now Foxton . . 53
Poling--Whanganui River . . . .. 96
Pipiriki ........ 103
Watakini and Mother ...... 105
Ngaoro and Topia ...... 109
Moawhanga Junction with Rangitikei River. .. 124
Papatahi. . . . . . .. 125
Pakehiwi. . . . . . .. 127
Camping Shed on Waihohonu River. . . 133
Te Umu Kohukohu, who was made meat of by Ngatikahungunu ....... 135
Lake Taupo, from near Terapa. . . .. 136
Mr. Deighton and Herekiekie's Widow. . .. 138
Upper Fall of Waihi. . . . . 139
Study of Cabbage Tree. . . . .. 151
Bull of Ngatimaniopoto. . . . .. 158
Grave at Maraikowhai. . . . .. 160
Sunday Morning--Lady Shaving her Husband ... 180
Huia ........ 197
Manaia, Wife, Son, and Daughter--Wangarei Heads . 214
General Cameron's Camp at Terore--Pirongia in background . 225
Falls of Mataura River ...... 253
Deep Creek Havelock ...... 261
MAPS.
General Map of Travels ...... 1
Geological Map of New Zealand ..... 337
Physiographical Map of New Zealand .... 357
