1940 - Mathew, Felton. The Founding of New Zealand: The Journals of Felton Mathew, First Surveyor-General of New Zealand, and his Wife, 1840-1847. - Chapter III. First Visit To The Waitemata, p 57-81

       
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  1940 - Mathew, Felton. The Founding of New Zealand: The Journals of Felton Mathew, First Surveyor-General of New Zealand, and his Wife, 1840-1847. - Chapter III. First Visit To The Waitemata, p 57-81
 
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CHAPTER III. FIRST VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA

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CHAPTER III.

FIRST VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA

[Next to securing the recognition of the Queen's Sovereignty over New Zealand by the negotiation of the Treaty of Waitangi, Hobson's most urgent task was the selection and survey of a site for the capital. At his first meeting with the Lieutenant-Governor, Rev. Henry Williams had stressed the great advantages of the Waitemata as a safe and commodious harbour and a strategic centre commanding convenient access to the north via the Kaipara, and to the south via the Thames and via the Manukau and the Waikato. 1 Captain Symonds, agent of the Manukau Company which claimed to have purchased nearly the whole of the Manukau and Waitemata district, threw his influence in the same direction. Native representations were added to these promptings, for, in the middle of February there arrived at the Bay of Islands a deputation of seven Chiefs of the Waitemata district, who, being anxious to secure the

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protection of the British Government against the Ngapuhi and Waikato tribes, besought the Lieutenant-Governor to settle among them and offered land for the purpose. 2

The Bay of Islands and the Hokianga were clearly unsuitable for the purpose the Government had in mind. On February 21st, therefore, Hobson, accompanied by the Rev. H. Williams, Cooper, Freeman and Mathew, sailed for the Waitemata on H. M. S. Herald for the double purpose of securing further signatures to the Treaty and inspecting the Waitemata as a site for the principal settlement and the seat of Government. It was further intended that the Herald should cruise right round the North Island, and in particular visit Port Nicholson, the scene of the New Zealand Company's operations.

These plans were suddenly curtailed on March 1st by the paralytic stroke which rendered Hobson an invalid and for a while left the Government without a head. Hobson subsequently effected a partial recovery, and after some two months was able to resume the reins of office. But the effects of his temporary incapacity were important. At a critical time, the Government was reduced to hopeless confusion and uncertainty. It literally lost its head. Discords broke out afresh among the Government officers. More than one of them believed that the mission was a fiasco, and evinced a disposition to "cut and run"; Cooper actually did return to Sydney. The search for the site of the capital was for the time being discontinued, and in consequence temporary provision had to be

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made at the Bay of Islands for the housing of the Government and the settlement of immigrants--a cumbrous arrangement, involving an expensive bargain with J. R. Clendon which both parties regretted at their leisure. An even more unfortunate aspect of the affair was that Hobson's illness caused the postponement sine die of his visit to Port Nicholson. The fact that the capital was fixed at the Waitemata before the Lieutenant-Governor had inspected the harbour and town of Wellington, then by far the most populous settlement in the Colony, greatly embittered the feelings of the Cook Strait settlers, and intensified that mistrust of him in the South which lasted throughout his Governorship.

Felton Mathew's third journal-letter, which follows, gives an intimate day-to-day account of the events that led up to this situation. Incidentally, this letter throws some further light on the very vexed question whether, and if so, when, Hobson landed at Orakei. Mathew's record, examined alongside the Log of the Herald, shows that February 26th was the only day during his first visit to the Waitemata when Hobson could have landed at Orakei; his movements are accounted for otherwise on every day. The Herald anchored in mid-channel off Point Britomart on February 23rd, that is, well above Orakei. Hobson's exploratory excursions on the 23rd, 24th, 27th and 28th were all upstream from the Herald--therefore away from Orakei; on the 25th and again on the 29th, bad weather put a stop to his expeditions; and on the morning of March 1st his stroke caused the abandonment of all plans. This leaves only the 26th, on which day (Mathew records) "the

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Governor started from the ship in the missionary's boat to examine an inlet in the harbour." But as to which inlet it was that Hobson visited there is no clue; whether upstream or downstream, whether two miles away or twenty, we do not know. If we could rely on Native evidence and assume as a fact that Hobson did, at some time during his first visit to the Waitemata, land at Orakei, then February 26th would be the date of that event. But it is not improbable that what the Native witnesses recollected refers to a later visit to Orakei, towards the end of 1840, when the capital Auckland was in process of being built. So the Orakei legend still preserves an element of mystery. --Ed.]

FELTON MATHEW'S THIRD JOURNAL-LETTER.

River Thames, New Zealand, Saturday, 22nd February, 1840. --I closed another portion of my Journal, dearest Sarah, and left it with Shortland, in order that it may greet you on your arrival in the Bay of Islands; and I now commence another sheet altho' I have yet very little to detail. At 8 yesterday morning we got under weigh. The wind was fresh from the N. by E., and we had therefore to beat out of the Bay, which we did not succeed in doing untill about 3 o'clock. The weather was very thick, with heavy squalls of Rain, and I was so miserable that I was compelled to take to my cot and sleep away my wretchedness, which with occasional intervals of miserable consciousness I succeeded in doing; and on waking this morning, I find preparations making for dropping anchor, which we did in the Mouth of the Thames, at 7 a. m. We are not, however, in our proper position, but have to move about 5 miles further up, and a boat has now left the ship to sound

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for that purpose. 3 I am very happy to say that Captain Hobson talks of leaving me here, if the place appears desirable for a settlement, and sending word to the Bay for the Store-ship to proceed hither immediately. This will be gratifying in two ways--it will release me from durance, and, above all, will be the means of our meeting earlier than we otherwise should....

Sunday, 23rd February. --We have not spent today, dearest, quite as it should be, for soon after breakfast the ship was got under weigh in order to work higher up the Harbour of Waitemata, which is the spot we wish to examine. We were joined by a little schooner of 30 Tons belonging to a Captain Bateman, which the Governor talks of hiring and placing under my control. In this case Captain Symonds will remain with me, and I congratulate myself on having so pleasant and gentlemanly a companion. We did not reach our anchorage untill 4 o'clock and then, after a hasty dinner, the Governor, Captain Nias, myself and Cooper left in the Cutter for the purpose of examining the harbour a little higher up. Our inspection proved, as far as it went, very satisfactory. The appearance of the country is certainly very interesting after the rugged, impracticable shores of the Bay of Islands. The land is of moderate elevation, occasionally swelling into gentle undulations, but generally very level and quite unincumbered by Trees of any kind. This, although advantageous in some respects, will occasion a dearth of firewood which, at first, will I fear be attended with some inconvenience. There are several very singular Hills rising boldly from the

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surrounding land, in shape and form closely resembling the Roman encampments on the Tumuli, which abound in many parts of England, and having like them three or four distinct fosses or ditches encircling them towards the summit. It is singular too that these have been formed for defence by the natives; the top of every hill is marked in this way, with distinct lines of circumvallation. An antiquary might perhaps from this circumstance deduce a connexion between the New Zealanders and the Ancient Romans!!... We shall send word to the Bay for the Ship to proceed hither immediately.

Monday, 24 February, 1840--At 1/2 past 6 this morning, dear Sarah, we got on board a little schooner of 30 Tons in company with divers pigs which occupied the deck, and proceeded up the Bay and River Waitemata. It blew very hard all night, and just before we started commenced raining heavily, and it did not cease for one minute from that time untill 4 in the afternoon, when we returned on board the Herald. We had, however, a most satisfactory cruise. The scenery up the River, on the right bank especially, is very pretty, and reminded me of the lower part of the Hawkesbury, only that the left bank is low. We went, I should think, about sixteen or eighteen miles up, carrying deep water with us nearly the whole way. The general appearance of the country is certainly favourable; and I am inclined to think that this will be the seat of our future Government. At all events there is no doubt that Symonds and I shall be left here to explore it. A more miserable day perhaps was never seen or imagined. We have, however, done much, and tomorrow will probably decide our movements. I think you will see much to remind you, dearest, of our trips about the Hawkesbury and its branches.

Wednesday, 26th February. --Yesterday morning presented every appearance of another wet day; and, as in that case, nothing could be done, Cooper and I went on board

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the schooner and got her under weigh for Mr. Fairburn's, the Missionary establishment, a distance of about 20 Miles to the Southward, and just in the mouth of the River Thames. 4 For about half that distance our course lay past our former anchorage; so that we saw nothing new; untill having passed that spot we gradually opened into a magnificent Bay of some fifteen Miles diameter, one side of which is formed by the Mainland, and the other by the Island of "Waihekeh," which is a most lovely spot, broken into gently swelling hills and delicious valleys, and about 18 miles in length. At the foot of the Hills on the West side of the Bay stands Mr. Fairburn's house, commanding a view of the whole of this splendid basin, the Hills rising gradually at the back, their bases entirely free of Trees, and having the appearance of fine grassy undulations; and towards the summits belts and patches of Timber just of sufficient extent to give variety and beauty to the scene. I really never saw anything so lovely. Fairburn's house is built by the natives of what they call "rapou," that is, long reeds matted thickly together and tied with strong Vines to the posts and rafters, all of which are fastened in the same way, not a nail being used in the whole house. The roof is thatched with a long, coarse grass laid on an inner coating of palm leaves. This kind of building is very neat in appearance and very comfortable within. After taking some dinner--the usual New Zealand fare, pork and potatoes--we left on our return in Fairburn's boat, and reached the ship just before sundown. I was certainly enchanted by the beauty of that part of the harbour, which, in my opinion, far surpasses this. The misfortune of it is that the side of the Bay on which alone it would be possible to form a settlement presents nothing but shoal water.

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However, after a few days more of exploring we shall know a little more about it.

Thursday, 27th February, 1840. --Yesterday, after breakfast, the Governor started from the ship in the missionary's boat to examine an inlet in the harbour, and as he did not require my assistance, I landed, accompanied [by Freeman], with the intention of walking to a large and lofty hill, distant about five miles, from which I anticipated a fine view of the surrounding country. Immediately behind the point at which we landed, we came on a small patch of land cultivated by the natives, in which two women were busy digging and packing away potatoes. They were soon joined by a man, a very fine young fellow, whom I made to understand what I wanted, and he voluntarily undertook to show us the way towards the Hill, though he smiled at my intention of reaching it and seemed to intimate that it was impossible.

The Hills we traversed have, at a short distance, the appearance of open downs and are entirely free from Timber. I had calculated therefore that by following the range, a brisk walk of about five miles would take us to the Hill. I found, however, that what has the appearance of Downs is in reality covered with Fern, so thick and strong as to be almost impenetrable, and in many places, much higher than my head, added to which it is entangled and matted together with the vines of the wild Convolvulus, which grows everywhere in the greatest luxuriance, so that to traverse it is all but impossible. The day was very warm, and our walk more fatiguing than any I almost ever experienced. I was determined, however, to see a little of the country, and therefore persevered untill I found the Range suddenly drop into a dense and impenetrable brush which surrounded the base of the Mountain; and as I found that to reach it under such circumstances would involve the necessity of being all night in the bush, and as we had no

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provision with us but biscuit, I was reluctantly compelled to give it up.

After resting a while, therefore, we commenced our retrograde movement. The appearance of the country is singular, and strongly resembles our English Downs, swelling into a succession of bold, undulating ridges separated by narrow ravines in which a narrow chain of swamp may be traced by the light-green colour of the reeds and rushes with which they abound. After a walk of about four hours we returned thoroughly fagged, and were glad to rest for a while at the native camp. We found three men and about a dozen women encamped in a little bight close to the beach, and nothing could exceed the friendly reception they gave us. Melons, calapashes and onions were offered us in abundance, and a supply of potatoes was immediately put down to roast, of which we partook with great gusto. We formed a curious group with the men and women all huddled together round us, laughing, talking and endeavouring to make us understand their meaning. At last I took off my cap to wipe the perspiration from my forehead, and you would have been amused to see them and to hear the shouts and screams of laughter excited by the venerable appearance of my bald head. They were in exstacies, and several times requested me to repeat the operation, and each time it seemed to afford them fresh delight. The ladies were particularly attentive, and one black-eyed roguish looking wench especially who tried all her artillery on me, and had I been a single man it might perhaps have been successful, for she was a really fine looking girl. However, I turned my eyes upon her, and fairly looked her down, though not, I confess, without much difficulty, and only by giving her a look which I am sure would have quelled a Tiger in the act to spring.

We staid with them about an hour, when walking to the point at which we landed, we made a signal to the ship

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for a boat by firing my gun. The Captain and Master came off for us in the Gig, and the wind blowing with great violence, in beating back to the ship, the master, who held the Mizzen sheet in his hand, by chance let it go, when the boat instantly fell off from the wind, shipped a tremendous sea, and was within an ace of being capsized. Poor Freeman was in a tremendous funk! However, we at last reached the ship, at the expense of a good ducking. The weather is terrible. It has been blowing a hurricane all night, and raining tremendously, so that we are unable to do anything today. Our leader's movements--I will not call them plans, for he has none--are very feeble and vacillating, and like a man who is new to his station, he seeks to strengthen his opinion by the judgment of others, and is perpetually seeking what he calls information from the Missionaries and others, who are the very parties interested in misleading him. And yet he is obstinate as a pig, too, and thinks that no one knows anything but himself. For my own part, I have become perfectly passive and am determined not to offer an opinion on any matter, unless called upon to do so. I shall be much mistaken if they do not make a foolish business of it.

Friday, 28th February, 1840. --The weather cleared up yesterday evening, and today has been perfectly beautiful. The Governor, myself, and Cooper went up the River in a boat to examine a place which we thought might answer for the settlement, but were woefully disappointed. The country is the most miserable that can be imagined and, strange to say, is destitute both of wood and water. The latter circumstance, curious as it may appear, is easily accounted for, as you will see by a glance at the map. The Island is here so deeply indented by the sea that there is not a sufficient extent of country to supply a stream of any magnitude, the land being in fact in all directions merely a narrow isthmus between one large sheet of water and

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another. I am much afraid that we shall not find an eligible spot here; a circumstance which I regret because it will retard our settlement. I am about, dearest, to start on an expedition which I should much enjoy if you were with me, but which, under existing circumstances, I do not very willingly undertake, lest it should delay our meeting. But as your departure from Sydney is so uncertain, and the object in view is very important, I cannot decline it, and am only in hopes that I shall be back as soon as you will arrive. I am going, accompanied by Captain Symonds, to explore the country between this and Manukou, from thence trace the Rivers Waikati and Waipa as far up as time will allow into the interior and towards the Great Lake of Roturoa, from whence they are supposed to emanate; and to ascertain if possible the existence of a river which is said to extend southward from very near that Lake nearly to the Mouth of Cook's Strait, thus opening a water communication entirely through the country. Almost the whole of the journey will be performed in a boat or in canoes, and I intend returning here by the 18th March. I think with such a companion as Symonds I shall find it pleasant; but I cannot attempt anything with spirit or energy untill you join me.... I do not think we shall start before Monday.

Saturday, 29th February, 1840. --The weather today is again most terrible, raining heavily and blowing great guns. We begin to fear that the climate is far too wet to be agreeable--certainly we have not had a favourable specimen of it since we have been here. Tempted by a temporary lull about the middle of the day Cooper and I started in the Jolly boat in order to land and explore a Bay a short distance from the ship. It soon, however, came on again to rain and blow heavily, and finding it impossible to land, and the signal of recall being made from the ship we put about and with great difficulty reached the ship in two

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hours, thoroughly drenched. Symonds has been absent these three days, endeavouring to hire a boat and crew. He is not yet returned, so that I know not when we shall start....

Sunday Morning, 1st March, 1840. --I have a sad catastrophe, or almost a series of such, to relate to you, mine own. Last night after dark the Barometer fell with a rapidity which I never before witnessed and which I could not have conceived possible, and it commenced blowing from the S. E. a perfect hurricane. About midnight the wind suddenly shifted to the North and blew with redoubled violence. The launch and Cutter which lay alongside the ship were both swamped and very much injured--all the masts, sails and oars entirely lost. The ship, with two cables out, rode very well, but the Captain and principal officers were up all night in momentary expectation that she would drive from her anchors, in which case no power on earth could have saved us from driving on shore. 5 Thank God, however, we passed through the night in perfect security; but Oh, dearest Sarah, what agony of mind I suffered and am still suffering at the idea that you may be exposed to it....

This morning we have had an instance as awful as unexpected of the uncertainty of all human schemes and devices, and how completely our best laid designs may be frustrated in a moment. I was after breakfast walking the quarter deck with Captain Hobson, and he was endeavouring to quiet my apprehensions for the storeship, and was in per-

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fect health and spirits. I went down into my cabin and in five minutes afterwards he was attacked with Paralysis, losing temporarily the use of one side and partly of his speech. He was immediately placed in bed and proper means of relief resorted to, and is now at noon decidedly better; but still it is so awful a complaint and one attack is so certain to be followed by another that his fitness for his office is at one blow destroyed. Of this he is himself aware, and I could not but admire his manly firmness and his high principle, when on going to see him, he told me that he had at once made up his mind that he was unfit for the cares of office, and must resign and return to Sydney. Poor fellow, it is a sad blow for him--and what a shock for his wife. This untoward event has at once laid level all our plans, and we know not what course we must adopt. The first step, however, obviously, is to return to the Bay of Islands and consult with Shortland, to see if the storeship is there and then arrange our plans accordingly. I do hope and trust we shall meet you, mine own, at the Bay, and now more than ever, because it is needful that we should consult together as to our future plans. This makes so great an alteration in the state of affairs, that I cannot yet think what to decide on.

Monday, 2nd March, 1840. --Captain Hobson is, I fear, rather worse than better, and has just been both cupped and blistered, which, with so feeble a constitution as his, must tend very much to debilitate him. I have very serious apprehensions for him, and am very desirous that we should return to the Bay as soon as possible, in order that Shortland, who is his private friend, may decide what should be done with him. I have quite determined on returning myself to the Bay instead of starting on my expedition; for my anxiety about you, dearest, will not allow me to incur the risk of several weeks' absence unsatisfied as I now am of your whereabouts.... Poor Freeman, too, is very

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anxious about his wife, and looks and is very unwell. In fact, being cooped up in this infernal ship is playing the very devil with us, and that is plain English or I wot not what is. We are losing another day. The weather is fine and the natives were to assemble, but we have not yet seen or heard either of the Missionaries or any one else. Neither is Symonds returned. The Ship's company are all engaged repairing damages and looking for the lost gear of the boats; so here are we stuck on board the ship and unable to move or do anything. Never was time more unprofitably employed, and all because an unfit person was appointed to co-operate with us.

Tuesday, 3rd March, 1840. --The Governor appears rather better today, but his condition is very precarious, and the Surgeon 6 urges his immediate return to Sydney. Poor fellow, I fear his constitution will not long survive this attack. The weather is beautiful, but we have no tidings of either the Missionaries or Symonds. What has become of them we cannot even surmise. Our schipper, with the obstinacy which marks all his proceedings, seems determined to stick here as long as possible, merely because we want him to proceed to the Bay forthwith. When we shall sail seems very doubtful. Meantime, I am tormented with doubt, uncertainty and anxiety....

Wednesday, 4th March, 1840. --Last evening we received a communication from Mr. Williams that the Natives had assembled. Accordingly, at 7 this morning, Cooper, myself and Captain Nias sailed down to the place of Rendezvous where the ceremony of signing the Treaty (as it is called) was soon performed, 7

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and we have now just returned on board (3 p.m.). Orders are given to weigh anchor, and although there is little or no wind we shall drop down to the Mouth of the Harbour, and tomorrow evening, I hope, if all goes well, we shall again enter the Bay of Islands. I am afraid to think whether the storeship may be there....

The weather today is lovely--old Williams says it usually is--and the harbour does look most beautiful. I look forward to visiting this place again shortly with you, mine own; and then I shall look on it [with] very different feelings. Our Governor is better, but much shaken. We hear nothing of Symonds, but trust that he is safe in Coromandel Harbour.

Thursday, 5th March, 1840. --At 2 p. m. yesterday we "up anchor" and away, and now at the same hour today we are becalmed off the "Poor Knights," a group of rocky Islets so named by Cook. The appearance of the coast is very pretty and interesting from its volcanic formation.

I have made many sketches which I hope you will soon look at, mine own---my dear one--and that you will also be enabled to identify the subjects of them in traversing this Coast with me, as I hope and trust you will. My patience is wearing thin, for I had hoped to reach the Bay this afternoon.

Friday, 6th March, 1840. --We had a nice little breeze, dearest, yesterday afternoon untill just as we approached the heads of the Bay and it then fell calm--and there we were rolling about untill noon today, when a moderate sea breeze set in, and we entered the Bay. Imagine, mine own, how anxiously my glass was directed to scan every vessel as it came in sight, and with what disappointment I turned from one to the other, forced to confess that they were all evidently whalers, and that the Storeship was not here. At 2 p.m. we dropt anchor in Korararika Bay, and as soon as a boat could be manned Cooper and I went on shore to

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Shortland's house. We found him absent, but I succeeded in obtaining your two letters, which arrived in the Victoria (most unfortunately, the very day we sailed for the Thames)....

1/2 past 5 p. m. --A boat has just been alongside bringing me from Mrs. Busby your letter of the 21st and 22nd January....

Saturday, 7th March, 1840. -- ...We have had such an explosion this morning between the two Captains, who are both obstinate, wrong-headed fellows, and as fit to act together as fire and toe. The quarrel has been very violent, and the consequence has been the framing of a set of minutes of the conversation which took place, 8 for the purpose of transmitting them to Sir George Gipps. Where this matter may end, it is impossible to foresee--it may occasion our recall to Sydney, perhaps even to England. The immediate effect is that the Government says we must all leave the ship this evening. Meantime, this is the way in which the public service is conducted, by two men, neither of whom are at all qualified for the duty to which they have been appointed. Nothing but broils have occurred, and the whole affair has been one scene of folly and imbecility from beginning to end. Captain Hobson will kill himself in six months, if he continues here, as it appears he has determined to do. You will see how I admired the manly way in which, when he was first attacked, he formed at once the resolution of resigning the the Government and returning to Sydney. No sooner, however, does he become a little better, than he alters his intention, still clinging to the loaves and fishes! It is perhaps natural: but alas, poor human nature! Captain Nias

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has certainly shewn great want of feeling, and much indelicacy in wishing to hurry Hobson out of the ship: but the latter, again, is a most disagreeable person to have anything to do with, and has been in many things much to blame. I do not think that any officer will serve with him for twelve months. It is very doubtful if I shall do so, for so long a period. Indeed were it not, dearest, that you are on your way and even close at hand, I would at once resign and return to Sydney, and Cooper says he would do the same. It is really quite painful and annoying to see the way in which matters are managed, or rather mismanaged--no energy, no resolution, no arrangement, no fixed or settled purpose, but everything is done by fits and starts, without consideration; and resolutions are altered almost as soon as formed. Hobson is no more fit for the duty he has undertaken than I am to be Lord Chancellor, and I am quite sure that, even if he lives, he cannot carry on a Government six months without involving it in irretrievable confusion. Would you were here, dearest, to talk this matter over: it really becomes a subject for consideration whether I will not "cut and run" at once. I am clearly of opinion that I could do very well, and spare myself much vexation and anxiety.

Sunday, 8th March, 1840. -- ...I am eagerly looking out every hour for your arrival; and yet I have almost wished that you might not arrive today, because Captain Hobson leaves tomorrow early for Waimate, and if the ship arrived before his departure I know it would add materially to our annoyance and discomfort. The fact is that he is not himself, and we shall act when he is gone as if he had entirely given up the Reins of Government. The poor man is very ill and looks wretched. I do not think his life worth a pin's fee. The weather is now so beautiful, I long for you to enjoy it with me. I was talking to Mrs. Busby today after Church, and she says it certainly is the

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most lovely climate in the world, and it is the only thing she will miss in leaving New Zealand. She is a ladylike woman, and I love her for sending over your letter to me, as she did the moment the ship had anchored. Cooper and I went to Church at Paihia, and were much wearied by a famous sample of rigmarole from old Williams. I liked him as a companion but not at all as a preacher. Since the disturbance yesterday Nias has been so superabundantly civil to us, that there is no knowing what to make of him. However, he has certainly behaved exceedingly well to all of us: and I believe that if we had had the business to conduct instead of Hobson, we should have got through ten times as much, and he would have given us every assistance. Jealousy between the two officers is, I believe, the secret of all their quarrels....

Monday, 9th March, 1840. -- ...Captain Hobson left the ship this morning early for Waimate; and after breakfast I and Cooper sailed in the Gig, with the Master, intending to land on one of the Islands to look out for a good place to form the camp.... We went on in the boat with the master, who was going to buy some pigs and poultry. For this purpose we landed on one of the small Islands at the entrance of the Bay, where, on a space of ground of a few yards square levelled for the purpose, we found a comfortable little wooden house, inhabited by a young man and his still younger wife, who had lately arrived from Liverpool. She was a nice, chatty and rather pretty looking girl, not more, I think, than 18, and altho' living in this desolate spot, without a female near her, she said she never found it at all dull--"she had always something to do, and was very happy"--and certainly her face and manner bore out her assertion. The Island is very small and a mere mass of almost perpendicular mountain, producing not a blade of vegetation except stunted fern and affording not a space of level land the size of a dining

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Table. With infinite labour we ascended the almost perpendicular hill behind the house, and enjoyed a beautiful view of the Bay--a vast extent of country and the open sea. I strained my eyes eagerly northward, but alas, clear as the horizon was, not a sail was to be seen. The sailors had a regular "lark" (as they call it) hunting pigs, and so much were they delighted that we could scarcely get them away. "Lord bless you, sir," said the boatswain, "I havn't been ashore so long, that ahunting them there pigs I was just like a boy." We returned to the ship by six o'clock for dinner.

Tuesday, 10th March, 1840. --The Diary of my proceedings is becoming very uninteresting, dearest, for I am all anxiety and cannot with heart and mind undertake anything. We went this morning in our own Whaleboat to the Island, which we intended to have examined yesterday, but found it miserably barren, and too far from the settlement to be available for our encampment. I had a delicious bathe, which I never lose an opportunity of doing, and we returned to the ship by 3 p.m. to dinner. We afterwards paid old Williams a visit at Paihia for the purpose of transacting a little business, and returned on board by dark. The weather is most beautiful, and all the old residents agree that it is proper New Zealand weather; if so, I must say nothing can be more delicious; and I have already experienced its beneficial effects on my health in a very remarkable degree....

Wednesday, 11th March, 1840 --I left the ship this morning in the whaleboat, with only Freeman as a companion (and a very silly one) for the purpose of exploring a little of the River Kawa-Kawa. We sailed up it, I suppose, about 10 miles, and I was much disappointed in it. It is not to be compared in point of scenery, or indeed in any other respect, with the mountain streams of Australia. The Macdonald is a paradise compared with it. The Hills

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are lofty, and, I cannot say broken, because that would convey an idea of rocks which you never see, but deeply indented and undulating, rising rapidly from the water and forming an endless variety of "spurs," which are partially clothed with Timber, but chiefly with fern alone. Extensive mangrove swamps abound, and the appearance of many of the Ranges, on which nothing but fern can be seen, is desolate in the extreme. There is not one piece of level Land as far as we went the size of a dining Table. On our return we landed at the Pah of the famous chief Pomare, which is situated on a lofty, rocky peninsula in a very commanding situation. It is very populous, for it contains, I should think, from 2 to 300 habitations, each little plot of ground being well and neatly fenced. From thence we landed at the Estate of a Mr. Clendon, American Consul, who has acquired a very fine property. His house is handsomely furnished, and is very prettily situated with a nice Lawn and paddock green with clover, and commanding a fine view down the Harbour. Here we met the officers of the American schooner Flying Fish, which returned yesterday from her cruise to the Southward. We reached the ship by five to dinner and found Shortland on board, together with Mr. Taylor, who accompanied him from Waimate. They left the Governor something better, but I am sorry to say that his mantle appears to have descended upon Shortland, for he and Cooper have had a violent quarrel this evening, about Cooper's returning to Sydney, which he is determined to do in the Herald. Shortland evidently spoke under tuition from Hobson, and certainly not in a proper manner to an officer so much his senior as Cooper. What will be the result of all these disturbances it is not difficult to foresee, and unless Sir George Gipps supersedes Hobson forthwith, the whole project will prove a dismal failure. Meantime, one great cause of all this mischief is the non-arrival of the storeship, for

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were she here we should so much better know how to act. Cooper, however, is determined to go in the Herald, which is to sail tomorrow, and Freeman and I shall take up our quarters with Shortland until yr. arrival--and then, mine own, you and I will start away together, and I will endeavour to discharge my own duty, and keep clear of all their quarrels. It has been a beautiful day, but unfortunately the wind is from the South-east, and therefore almost in your teeth if the Westminster is coming along the Coast. If you were not in her, mine own, I should feel strongly inclined to "give up everything" and return to Sydney forthwith. But we will see the upshot of this foolishly conducted business.

Kororarika, 12th March, 1840. --Well, here I am, dearest Sarah, domiciled at Kororarika; the place of all others against which I am most vehemently prejudiced. But so it is, and midst the vicissitudes of this life, I find myself in a rather funny situation, and like a youngster seem beginning the world again. Freeman and I are quartered with Shortland in his snug little house, our dormitory being a dog-kennel of a cock-loft, which, as the only room to be had in the place, we are obliged to put up with. As it is, however, but for a few days (I confidently hope) I do not care much about it; and the moment you arrive, mine own, I shall stow all our heavy baggage in Store, tranship ourselves and a light equipment to the Revenue Cutter, and then away on a cruise. I have so much to tell you, dearest, that I shall not know where to begin. This morning I got all my traps out of the Herald, and as Nias pressed me to remain and dine with him and Cooper, I did so. The ship got under weigh at 3 p.m. We sat down to dinner immediately afterwards, and as she was beating out, I remained untill 1/2 past 4, when taking advantage of her being in stays and near the shore, I bid a cordial adieu to all on board, and jumping into my whaleboat

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rowed by two mounted (or rather dismounted) Policemen, turned my back on the old ship. She looked very well as she flew away on the other tack, and I could not leave her without regret. Nias has been throughout exceedingly kind and attentive, and expressed himself very handsomely towards me, as did all the officers of the ship, several of whom I like and hope to meet again. Cooper, too, was unwilling to part from me, and on the whole we separated with much mutual regret. I am sure that had it been any but a Naval Officer on board as Governor, that everything would have gone smoothly enough, for to the rest of us, no man could behave with more kindness and consideration than did Nias. Thus finished a cruise of nearly two months, in Her Majesty's ship Herald, and notwithstanding all the disagreeable [incidents] that have occurred, I have seen much, and should have derived much pleasure from the trip, had you been with me, mine own. Cooper has returned to Sydney under peculiar and unpleasant circumstances, and I fear he will have many difficulties to contend with. His proceedings are, of course, deeply interesting to me; and he has promised to communicate with me constantly. On that subject, however, more anon. Immediately that you arrive I shall pitch a Tent, if possible, for I have such an abhorrence of this hole, that I shall be delighted to get out of it. And yet it would be pretty enough but for the vile population; and the gentle murmuring sound of the water rippling on the shingly beach is very pleasant to the ear. It is a lovely night; and though late I shall take a stroll on the beach before I turn in to my lair. One advantage I shall enjoy here certainly, that of a glorious dip before breakfast in the morning. I find great benefit from bathing and indeed am in hopes that we shall both enjoy better health in this country, for the climate does appear beautiful. God bless you, mine own.

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Friday, 13th March, 1840. -- ...The Herald has been in sight of the heads all day, unable to get on. I engaged this morning an English boat's crew, and put them to immediate trial by pulling up the harbour to the house of a Mr. Clendon, the American Consul, with whom I had some business. 9 He has a very pretty, comfortable English-looking place. After leaving him, I paid a visit on board the American Schooner Flying Fish and had a chat with the Captain and Lieutenant. They are fine, gentlemanly fellows--the former especially--and we are going to ask them to dine with us on Monday. The Schooner is a little beauty of Seventy Tons, with excellent accommodations, and would make a lovely yacht, but is quite unfit for the service on which she is employed. They left Sydney on the 17th January, and have been ever since separated from the rest of the squadron, and sailing along the edge of the Ice within the Antarctic Circle in search of them, but in vain. They say there is no doubt of there being much land towards the pole, as they saw earth and evident marks of it on the Ice. There has been no disruption of the Ice this year, so that their further progress South was prevented. Returned to dinner at 1/2 past 3, afterwards assisted Shortland in transacting some magisterial business, then all three went out for a walk--ascended the highest hill to look out for the Westminster--no sight of her, alas!--returned home after dusk, took some tea and here we are, Freeman, poor fellow, copying letters, Shortland reading over an old Log book of his West Indian voyages, and I logging down my day's proceedings for my precious wife. The Thermometer of my spirits has risen a little, since I have been recovering from the effects of the villainous confinement on ship board; and I am more sanguine than I have latterly been, of doing something both for the public service and for myself....

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Saturday, 14th March. --After breakfast this morning, I started in my whaleboat for the purpose of examining some other parts of the Bay which I had not yet visited. On pulling round the point from Kororarika it was blowing very heavily, and a tremendous sea was rolling into the Bay. I therefore altered my original intention and pulled round into a Bay, where I had hoped to be more sheltered--I was, however, mistaken. The rollers were very heavy, and every now and then curled over my little boat, which, however, rode over them most gallantly. I have a capital crew and they pulled away like ----- 10 I first visited a native Pah, where I found a number of natives, and about two hundred houses. They received me in a very friendly manner, and I made myself known to them as a Rangatira or chief in the service of Her Majesty. I then cruised about the Bay for some time, peeping into every part and finding that I should have both a tedious and a wet pull back, I landed and walked home. The distance is about five miles, and the road tremendous. The first hill I ascended from the beach is fully 500 feet above the level of the sea; and the path runs straight up it as steep as the roof of a house, and as narrow as the back of a razor. Two more such occur after that, and a sandy beach of about a mile and a half long, in which I sunk to my ancles at every step. Judge therefore, dearest, that I am terribly tired tonight. It is the first severe walk I have taken for some time, and not being yet quite in wind, I felt it much.

Sunday, 15th March, 1840. --Last night was not so severe as I expected. It rained heavily, but the wind was not severe, and this morning again was lovely. I had, however, a heavy storm when I was bathing. We all went to Church at Kororarika, where old Williams officiated; he

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is a tiresome old fellow in the pulpit and curtails the proper service to introduce his own extempore rubbish. After Church, we walked to the top of the hill in order to look out for the Westminster, towards which all our thoughts and hopes are now directed. There is a fine view of the Bay, and the open sea from heads to heads, but no ship in sight. And yet there has been a fine, stiff westerly wind blowing all day, which made us pretty confidently hope that you must be in before night. We dined at two--old Williams with us. Afterwards, he went to Church, and we --to sleep. About five, Freeman and I strolled over to "Long Beach," about two miles from the town, where we had another view of the heads, and where we lingered, watching the huge breakers as they rolled into the bay and broke at our feet, untill nearly dark, when we returned home....

Monday, 16th March, 1840. -- ...I have been cruising about the Bay today picking up "useful knowledge," which is all I can do untill your arrival. Most anxious am I to be more profitably employed. I am, however, making the most of my time. I took a biscuit in my pocket and returned home at half past 6, taking dinner and tea together. I have since been finishing a sketch, and now betake myself to bed. To bed! but not to sleep. I cannot sleep half the night, dearest! I do not close my eyes till after midnight, and am continually getting out of bed to count the ships and see if an arrival has taken place.

[Here the third journal-letter ends. Mrs. Felton Mathew arrived on the Westminster the next day, and put a term to her husband's mounting anxiety. Mrs. Mathew's journal, which follows, gives a characteristically feminine view of the situation.]

1   Carleton, "Life of Henry Williams," II, p. 17-8.
2   S. P. Smith, "Maori Wars of the Nineteenth Century," p. 478.
3   See sketch-map of Waitemata, facing page 159. The Herald anchored in the first place under Rangitoto and Motutapu, February 22; but not finding sufficient water to approach the Waitemata from the North East, she turned back, rounded these two islands, and entered the Waitemata by the channel between Rangitoto and North Head. (Herald Logs, Ad. 51/3217 and 53/672.)
4   Maraetai, at the mouth of the Firth of Thames, or Hauraki Gulf.
5   The intensity of the storm is indicated by the Herald Log. The barometer dropped from 29.50 at 5 p. m. on the 29th, to 28.75 nine hours later; the wind rising from velocity 4 (moderate breeze of about 15 miles per hour) to 12 (full gale, over 75 miles per hour) at 11 p. m., and not dropping appreciably till midday next day. Here is one entry--"March 1st, 2 a. m. Blowing a hurricane, the wind veering in tremendous gusts from E. by N. to NNE. Observed the pinnace swamp astern. Struck top gallant masts and braced the yards round."
6   Dr. Alexander Lane, who pestered the Colonial Office with letters criticising Nias' conduct, until Lord J. Russell wrote: --"This gentleman is a great coxcomb." (C.O. 209/7.)
7   Sixteen Chiefs signed the Treaty on March 4th. (Facsimile of Treaty.)
8   These minutes are still in the Public Record Office (C. O. 209/6); and they have been recently published in Hall, "Captain Nias and the Treaty of Waitangi"; but they are best forgotten.
9   Vide infra, Chapter V., the purchase of Okiato.
10   Blank in MS.

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