1869 - The Taranaki Almanac and Directory. - The Taranaki Pilot, p 25-36

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THIS settlement and roadstead is nearly 20 miles north-eastward of Cape Egmont; it is well marked from seaward by the Sugar Loaf Islands, and by the still more remarkable dome-shaped Paritutu, or main Sugar Loaf, as also by its proximity to Mount Egmont. The settlement flagstaff is immediately above the landing-place, and close to the occupied portion of the town site; from it Mount Egmont bears S. 1 deg. 12' W. (true) 14.45 miles, and Moturoa, the highest of the Sugar Loaf Islands, N. 77 deg. 43' W. (true) 2.05 miles. The roadstead extends from the Sugar Loaf Islands to a line north of the flagstaff; at an average distance of 1 1/4 miles from the shore, there is an uniform depth of from 10 to 12 fathoms; it is, however, not prudent for vessels of any size beyond coasting craft to come within this depth, as the bottom becomes very foul, with a reef and an irregularly attached rocky ledge extending out a long half mile from the shore, a short distance westward of the flagstaff. The reef and ledge breaks in moderate weather, and shelter the landing-place from the prevalent S.W. winds and swell. The roadstead is open to all winds from S.W. round by North to E.N.E. (18 points of the compass).

The general nature of the bottom appears to be rocky ledges, covered with a thin coating of dark coloured sand, but north of the settlement it is strewed with large boulders and shingle. Vessels often experience a difficulty in weighing from the foul ground below the sand; a stout crown rope to insure canting the anchor should always be employed. There

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is at all times a swell in the roads, and a vessel must be prepared to leave with the first symptom of a N.W. wind.

Sugar Loaf Islands (Nga-Motu) are a remarkable and appropriately named group; the most lofty and striking of these Sugar Loaves (Paritutu) rises from a low point of the adjacent mainland as a sharp cone to an elevation of 503 feet. The inner inlet (Motu-roa) is similar in character and 266 feet high, whilst the outer (Motu-mahanga) is saddle-backed, with a conical summit 190 feet high.

There is a deep passage between these islands, avoiding Barrett Reef, a half tide rock, lying half a mile westward of Motu-roa, and passing on either hand of the Seal Rocks, a cluster of some extent, the highest part having 35 feet elevation.

Mount Egmont, standing alone as it does, and rising from a plain of inconsiderable elevation, is although not the highest, certainly the most strikingly remarkable mountain in New Zealand, and may be seen from a vessel's deck in clear weather distinctly from a distance of more than a hundred miles. It rises in a perfect cone from a base of thirty miles in diameter, to a height of 8,270 feet above the sea, and presents nearly the same appearance viewed from every point; its summit, which is an extinct crater, is flattened, and is covered with perpetual snow for nearly a quarter of its entire elevation. A saddle-shaped eminence rises to the N.W. of the mountain to a height of 4,600 feet, as a kind of off-shoot; and in the same direction, three miles from the coast, is another range of a similar character, but much lower.

The configuration of the coast-line from New Plymouth to the Kaipokonui stream is so uniformly circular, that supposing a pair of compasses were planted on the summit of Mount Egmont, with a radius of 15 miles, and a semicircle was then described, it would be an almost accurate delineation of the coast for a distance of 45 miles.

From the Sugar Loaves to within nine miles of Cape Egmont, the coast is low and rocky, with sandy or shingly beaches; and from thence to Wanganui, the coast presents

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an almost uniform appearance of nearly perpendicular cliffs of about 100 feet high with the exception of Waitotara and Waipipi Points, which terminate in low sandy spits with shoal water extending off for quite one mile; all the rest of the coast may be approached in fine weather to within one mile. Cape Egmont itself has no distinguishing feature, being a slight projection from the general curve: it bears from the summit of the mountain W. by S. distant 15 miles. 3 1/2 miles south of the Cape is Harriet Bay, a sandy beach two miles in extent.

The Kaipokonui River takes its rise in Mount Egmont; it is a rapid stream, bringing large boulder stones down during the summer floods, at which season it is dangerous to cross; it is not navigable, even for canoes, at the entrance. About five miles from this river, eastward, is the Waimate bight, at whose northern limit stands the celebrated Waimate pah. This bight is a slight indentation of the coast, 23 miles in extent; it affords no shelter, the coast being an unbroken line of cliffs, averaging 100 feet in height. From the summit of these cliffs the level land covered with flax and brushwood extends some distance, rising very gradually as it approaches the base of Mount Egmont. Continuing on the coast to Waipipi, which is a low sandy point, the cliffs commence, and continue eastward to Waitotara point, another low sandy projection. The only rivers navigable for boats along this coast, between New Plymouth and Wanganui, are the Patea, Wenuakura, and the Waitotara. The two former are within a mile or two of each other, and the latter is about 16 miles from the Wanganui River.

WINDS AND WEATHER.--During the summer months (from November to February) there are generally regular land and sea breezes, and light winds off the land during the night. In the winter season the weather is variable, but the spring and fall of the year bring the strongest gales. S.W. or W.S.W. is the prevailing quarter; these winds throw a heavy swell round the Sugar Loaf Islands into the anchorage. S.E. is the fine weather quarter, and with this wind Mount Egmont is usually clear. N.W. winds which blow directly

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on shore, seldom blow home, and are generally preceded by a swell from that direction; they do not come on suddenly, but back round from N.E. and north.

TIDES.--It is high water on full and change days at 9h. 30m., when the range of tide is 12 feet. In the offing strong currents are experienced, influenced by the winds; after S.W. gales a N.E. current has been experienced, the rate of which along the land was fully 1 1/2 knots.

THE LANDING ARRANGEMENTS of the roadstead are very perfect, and are effected by means of cargo boats belonging to the New Plymouth Lighter Company. The Company have five cargo boats (capable of carring six tons each) and employ two coxswains and two experienced boats' crews to take charge of them, and do the work required for the port. The work is performed with an expedition not to be obtained in ports that contain harbours, by which means vessels can arrive, land and ship their cargo and depart the same day; the Company being able to land between 80 to 100 tons per day with the greatest safety. From the Harbour Master's report, who has had several year's experience, he considers that a boat may be launched from the beach six days out of the seven on an average.

The following sailing directions are issued by Captain Holford, Harbor Master of the port, and have been published by him in the Government Gazette:--

ANCHORAGE.

The anchorage now used for vessels of all classes extends along a line bearing N. 1/2 W. from the flagstaff, behind the boat sheds on the beach, on the slight elevation called Mount Eliot.

Large vessels anchor at from a mile to a mile and a quarter from the shore, in from eight to nine fathoms, keeping the flagstaff bearing S. 1/2 E. Bottom--sand and rocks.

Moorings capable of holding a vessel of two hundred tons are laid down at about a mile from the shore, and marked

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by a large buoy. Masters of vessels must not let go their anchors too near the moorings, which are laid down N.E. and S.W., sixty fathoms each way. There is a depth of seven fathoms at low water spring tides at these moorings.

A smaller set of moorings, for sailing vessels of one hundred tons and under, are laid down about a quarter of a mile nearer in-shore, in six fathoms at low water spring tides, and marked by a black buoy.

The anchorage for steamers and small craft is fully a quarter of a mile nearer in-shore again, and somewhat under half a mile from high water mark. It is marked by a black perch buoy, with an anchor painted white on it. Steamers and small craft can anchor close to this buoy, giving the vessel room to swing clear outside of it. This buoy is in four fathoms at low water spring tides.

REEFS.

A series of reefs, with boulders, fringe the coast for fifteen miles to the eastward of the anchorage, extending three-quarters of a mile off-shore on the average; but the most projecting part, known as Puketapu Reef, which is about seven miles to the eastward of the anchorage, extends fully a mile from the shore.

A reef, covered in places with large detached boulders, lies two cables' length to the westward of the inner anchorage, extending three-quarters of a mile to the westward, and about the same distance to the northward or seaward from the beach. Its eastern edge lies N.N.W. from the flagstaff, and its northernmost point N.W. 1/2 N. from the flagstaff, N.E. by E. 3/4 E. from Moturoa. Care should therefore be taken in leaving the inner anchorage not to bring the flagstaff to eastward of S.S.E., until the outer Sugar Loaf bears W.S.W., when a ship will be well outside this reef.

A reef also extends one-third of a mile off-shore, at about two cables' lengths to the eastward of the inner anchorage; but as this anchorage is only used by steamers and small craft, there is ample room to get under weigh.

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SAILING DIRECTIONS.

A vessel from the Westward, bound for the anchorage at New Plymouth, should make for the outer Sugar Loaf Island, and when that Island bears South--distant one mile--should steer E.S.E., until the same Island bears W.S.W., and keep it in that bearing until the small white flagstaff on the beach (in front of the boatsheds) is in line with the flagstaff on Mount Eliot, (or immediately behind the boat-sheds), bearing S. 1/2 E. The vessel will then be close to the outer mooring buoy.

A vessel from the Northward, if the wind be favourable, may run for the flagstaff on Mount Eliot, keeping it bearing S. 1/2 E. until the outer Sugar Loaf Island bears W.S.W., which will bring her near to the outer mooring buoy.

If plying to the windward from the North or N.E., with S.W. winds, a vessel should not approach the shore Eastward of the anchorage nearer than seven fathoms soundings, on account of the coast reefs above described.

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS AND DIRECTIONS.

The time of high water at the port of New Plymouth at full and change is 9.30; range of tide from seven to twelve feet.

The flood tide sets to the westward, ebb tide to the eastward, with a current running about one knot an hour; but the rate, and even the direction of the current, is much influenced by the winds.

A vessel running for the anchorage with strong S.W. winds should shorten sail in good time so as to carry no more than is necessary to keep her under command when coming to anchor.

A good buoy rope or chain of sufficient strength to lift the anchor (chain is preferable) should always be attached to the crown of the anchor before letting go.

When the anchor has been let go, cable should be veered without checking to sixty fathoms, in order to lessen risk of dragging.

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Vessels trading to this port should be provided with ground tackle of the very best quality, the anchors not less in weight (and number) and the chains not less in size and length than those prescribed in Lloyd's rules; but no vessel, however small, should have less than sixty fathoms, of cable. The safety of vessels may depend on the quality of their ground tackle, should they have to ride out strong inshore winds.

Vessels should be at all times prepared to slip in case of necessity, and with that view, a good slip chain, ten fathoms long, with a cask or nun-buoy, should be attached to the cable out side the hawse. Rope should not be used for attaching the slip buoy, owing to the rocky nature of the bottom.

If it be necessary to slip when lying at the outer anchorage, and the wind is from N.N.W. or eastward of that point, slip on the starboard tack; if the wind be from any point to the westward of N.N.W., slip on the port tack, and carry as much sail as the vessel will conveniently bear. Great care must be taken to ensure the vessel canting the proper way.

If lying at the inner anchorage with the wind North or N.N.W., a vessel would have to ply to windward to clear the reefs, unless it should be high water.

Should the wind veer round from the S.W. to the N.W. passing by W. (i.e., against the sun), however fine appearances may be, it should be looked on as a certain indication that a strong inshore wind will set in within twenty-four hours.

In the event of having to slip and put to vessel should keep to the westward of the Sugar Loaves, and when the wind veers to the S.W., run down off the outer Island, when the Harbour Master will communicate by signal whether to run to the anchorage or keep to sea; as many masters of vessels have lost much time by keeping the sea with strong S.W. winds, whilst in the roadstead it has been fine working weather.

Good anchorage will be found in strong S.W. winds under the inner Sugar Loaf Island (Moturoa) on the following bearings, viz.:--

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Paritutu (main Sugar Loaf), bearing S.W. by S. and in line with Mikotahi, a small rocky hill of the Sugar Loaf group, which is an island at high water. The centre of Motu Mahanga (outer Sugar Loaf), in line with the north end of Moturoa (inner Sugar Loaf), bearing West. Depth of water five fathoms. Ships visiting this Port should be provided with Marryatt's signals, a maul, cold chisel, chain punch, and lead line, and must be kept always ready for sea, so far as practicable.

All the bearings given in these directions and remarks are magnetic.

SIGNALS TO THE TOWN AT THE MAST HEAD.

Steamer coming from the South--Ensign.

Steamer coming from the North--Ensign over Third Distinguishing Pendant.

Ship or Barque--No. 1, Marryatt's Code.

Brig--No. 2, "

Brigantine--No. 3, "

Topsail Schooner--No. 4, "

Fore-and-aft Schooner--No. 5, "

Cutter--No. 6, "

A Blue Flag over any of the above will mean that the vessel indicated is passing.

SIGNALS TO SHIPPING.--By day.

In addition to the general signals for the Colony, published in the "New Zealand Harbour Regulations," the following "local" signals will be used as required:--

Wait till tide ebbs--A ball at one yard arm, and one on mast half the length of the yard below the yard.

You may stand in safely--A ball at each yard arm.

You may stand in safely, a boat will put off--Two balls at each yard arm, one below the other.

Keep to sea (to vessels approaching)--Two balls at one yard arm (one below the other) and one ball at the other yard arm.

You are running into danger--No. 2 of Marryatt's Code over Second Distinguishing Pendant, at mast head.

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Anchorage unsafe, put to sea--Two balls horizontal on yard, on either side of mast. (This signal will apply to all vessels).

In addition to the above, Marryatt's code of signals will be used as required.

BY NIGHT.

The night signals will be as published in the New Zealand Harbour Regulations, with this addition--that when it is intended that vessels at anchor should put to sea, two guns will be fired in addition to showing the proper lights.

If a vessel so signalled to can put to sea, she should repeat the proper signal, (two white lights horizontal, with a red light between) to show that the order has been understood and will be obeyed. If she cannot put to sea, let her show the proper reply, "cannot put to sea" (two white lights horizontal, with green light between them).

SIGNALS TO BE MADE FROM VESSELS ENTERING, OR IN HARBOUR, AS REQUIRED.

Exempt from pilotage--White flag at main.

Pilot wanted--Union Jack at the fore.

Steam tug required--Telegraph flag at the peak.

Mails on board--Marryatt's Telegraph flag at the main.

Health or Boarding Officer required--No. 8, of Marryatt's code, at the main.

Gunpowder on board--Red flag at the main.

Government emigrants on board--Ensign at the mizen.

Medical assistance wanted--Union Jack over Ensign at the peak.

Customs boat wanted--Union Jack at the peak.

Police wanted--By day: Ensign at the main. By night: Two white lights (vertical) at the peak, or at the same height where they can be best seen--four feet apart.

NIGHT SIGNALS FOR OPEN ROADSTEADS, &C., FROM THE SHORE.

A boat will come off--(As to a steamer coming in) two white lights, (vertical).

Boat cannot put off--Two lights, (vertical) upper, red; lower, white.

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Wait till daylight--(Boat will put off then, weather permitting), two white lights, (vertical) upper, white; lower, red.

Keep to sea.--Put to sea--Two white lights (horizontal) with red light between them.

FROM VESSELS.

Will wait till daylight--Two lights, (vertical) upper, white; lower, red.

The mouth of the Waitara River is about ten miles to the N.E. from the flagstaff at New Plymouth. There is a shifting bar at the entrance having sometimes one and sometimes two channels, the northern channel being principally used, it is high water on the bar at full and change at 9.45, the depth in the main channel at low water spring tides is about two feet. Range of tides from seven to twelve feet.

The flood tide runs two or three knots; the ebb, three or four knots in the entrance of the river. Along shore, flood tide runs to the eastward and ebb tide to the westward from one to two knots.

The general soundings one mile off shore from New Plymouth to Waitara are from five to seven fathoms sand and rocks. A submerged reef, known as the Puketapu Reef, lies about three miles to the west of the entrance and extends to the distance of one mile from the shore on each side of the Waitara bight.

A flagstaff with yard and semaphore arm has been erected on the south side of the river, and vessels will be guided in by the Signal Master. Masters of vessels are requested to pay particular attention to the signals from the flagstaff and alter the course of the vessel promptly in the direction towards which the semaphore arm is pointed. When the semaphore arm is dropped the vessel is to be kept steady as she goes. Marryatt's code of signals, and the special signals given below, are in use at the Waitara signal station.

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TIDAL SIGNALS.

Tidal signals are to consist of one, two, or three balls, of any colour which can be best seen at any port, arranged vertically.

Flood tide--Two balls (vertical) at mast head, not less than six feet apart.

Last quarter flood--Three balls (vertical) at mast head, not less than six feet apart.

Ebb tide--One ball at mast head.

Cannot wait--Two lights, (vertical) upper, red; lower, white.

Cannot keep to sea, or cannot put to sea--Two white lights (horizontal), with a green light between them.

Wait for high water--A ball at each yard arm, and one on mast half the length of the yard below it.

Stand on take the bar--Four balls horizontal on yard, two on each side of mast.

Bar too dangerous, keep off--Three balls horizontal on yard, two on any one side of mast and one on the other.

Put to sea--Two balls horizontal on yard.

No vessel should approach the shore at night within ten fathoms soundings. This depth will carry a vessel outside the points of the reef. In heavy south-west gales no vessel should approach the Waitara River. In fine weather a vessel drawing nine feet six inches may enter the river at spring tides. Vessels drawing from seven to eight feet may trade there habitually without difficulty.

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR VESSELS APPROACHING.

From the North.--Bring the summit of Mount Egmont to bear S. 1/2 W., and steer on that bearing until White Bluff (Parininihi) bears N.E. by E. The vessel will then be about two miles from the flagstaff at the entrance to the river, which will bear S.E. by S. 1/2 S., and by steering or that bearing (or direct for the flagstaff) she will be brought to the anchorage, which is three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and may anchor, unless otherwise directed by the Signal Master.

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From the South.--When abreast of the outer Sugar Loaf Island (Motumahanga), distant quarter of a mile, steer N.E. until the flagstaff at the Waitara bears S.E. by S. 1/2 S., and then steer for the flagstaff until the outer Sugar Loaf Island is in line with Kate Point (the western point of the Waitara bight), bearing S.W. by W. (westerly). A vessel will then be in six fathoms sandy bottom, and may anchor with safety three-quarters of a mile off shore. The Seal Rock (the westernmost of the Sugar Loaf group), should on no account be opened south of the outer Sugar Loaf (Motumahanga) until the flagstaff at the Waitara bears S.E. A vessel will thus keep clear of the roll on Puketapu Reef.

N.B.--Until a licensed pilot is stationed at the Waitara, a pilot can be taken on board at New Plymouth if desired.

To prevent, as far as possible, collisions at sea, and to put masters of vessels in mind of "the rules of the road," the following aids to memory have been published by the Assistant-Secretary to the Board of Trade, London:--