New Zealand or Recollections of it. [Part One]
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New Zealand or Recollections of it
by Edward Markham
New Zealand or the Northern Island, as there are three, is known to the Natives by the name of Eaheinomawe. 1
Feby 18th 1834. Crossed Hokianga Bar, in the Brig Brazil Packet Captain Crow, 2 having left Hobart town in Van diemans [Diemen's] land on the 7th of Feby at Noon. 3 Fellow Passengers Mr Oakes and Son 4 (N B will be a sad scamp)* Mr. Rogers, and a Mr. Phillips. 5 At noon on the 18th. MacLean [McLean] 6 came on board and Piloted her across the Bar. There is a rise of 16 Feet at Spring Tides 7 but the Breakers extend for three quarters of a Mile up, when there is any wind to speak of, and renders it a dangerous Bar. Six Ships have been lost there, 8 but now they do not use you worse on the Northern end of New Zealand, than they would on the Coast of Cornwall. As they only plunder your Ship, and formerly they killed and eat the Crew. They have some odd Ideas on this subject, but I shall touch on that on some future occasion.
The moment you pass the Bar, there is deep Water. MacLean went out some ten years ago as Carpenter when a New Zealand company was formed in England, and they bought land which is theirs at this moment. They sent out numbers of people, under Capt Hird [Herd] but with what object I can not tell. 9 Martin the regular Pilot 10 had gone up the River with a Vessel the day before. The Currency Lass. 11 At 3 p m came to an Anchor at Parkinneigh [Pakanae] a Village and had I suppose 150 Natives on board and a par [pa] or Fort about 12 miles from the Heads. 12 12 Fathoms water and pretty close to the Rocks. The Mouth of the River
is a good land mark as the Heads are high. The Southern side is high Bluff land 300 feet or so, and dark from being covered with Fern or Brackens. The Northern is not quite so high but is quite white from being covered with Sand. When the Bar was crossed Canoes or in the Native Mourie [Maori] 13 Tongue, Walker [waka] Mouries, or Native Boats, boarded us, and Moyterrra [Moetara] 14 as the Europeans called him came on board and rubbed Noses with Captain Crow and Oakes and greeted all the Men, as the Vessel had been there the Voyage before, or properly speaking she was there now for the second time. Numbers came on board in the course of the day. Mr Oakes (brother to the Coll Oakes who hired the Casa Felicaja [Filicaja] Piazza d'ogni Santi [Piazza
* The bracketed passage has been lightly struck out.
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Ognissanti] 15 after the Turtons gave it up) called Moyterra aft, and presented him, with a Sword, Cloak and Letter from Coll Arthur the Governor of Vandiemans land. 16 The substance of which was to thank him for his Bravery on a late Occasion, when he had gone in force to rescue property plundered from the Schooner Fortitude belonging to Clindon [Clendon] J. Stepenson * when an action had taken place and each party lost eleven Chiefs, 22 being killed in half an hour. The Chief Moyterra cried out "How you now" [Heoi ano!] or enough, but this will lead to further details on the same subject. 17
A very Original set of Tattooed Gentlemen cam aft and there was a grand Corrirow [korero] or Talk on the occasion, great Joy was depicted on all their Countenances, and they seemed to be making up for lost time in their Corrirow or Talk, as I am credibly informed that they had no representatives at Babel at the confusion of Tongues. Moyterra was very dignified on the occasion, he sent back two large Pigs, and a Cacahow [kakahu], mat, ** in return to Col Arthur, and said he should report this to his People and Friends at the time he gave his Sharkatty or Harkatty [hakari], meaning a Feast, which he was making preparations for, and did not get drunk till Evening which showed rather an Aristocratic feeling. N B. he got very drunk, and laid with his bottom bare. The Dog hearing him snore thought he was growling at him, and caught him by the part that was thus exposed, the consequence was that he covered himself with his Cacarhow or Native Cloak, and next morning, called us all to him and gave us occular demonstration by exposing the part affected on the Breakfast Table. The Cabin boy counted 8 Teeth marks and the Hout [utu] or Compensation money was 8 Figs of Tobacco. Crow made all hands of the Natives (or Tangata Mouries) give us some of their Dances. I thought the Decks would have been stove in, and I never saw Fifty Men dance and move together better. No troops seemed so well drilled as these and the Yells and contortions of these people were quite terrific. In the Evening we had. a second edition with variations as about 20 Young Ladies joined the dance before the house *** of Maclean and Nimmou [Nimmo]. 18 There I found Mr Chand [Shand?] 19 a Scotch man, well educated and doing the most menial Offices about the Establishment, as he would do any thing for drink, and if Grog was to be had, he would have no scruples if he could but get it but a man who had been articled as a writer to the Cygnet [Signet] in Edinburgh. Oh this is a Wicked World and full of Drink!! Oakes had brought an old Mare and a Foal for the Chief Moyterra and when she was landed the number of people looking at, and touching her, made her Savage; she kicked one, bit an other and played the Devil; she has thrown some of them repeatedly, but they can now manage her. All the Village (Kanger [kainga] Mourie) turned out to see the Horse rode, they call it (Karradie [kararehe] nui nui) or Big dog as they have no words to express it in their Language, as the only Animal a native of the Island is a Lizard (Dueterra) [tuatara]. Cats are imported, Dogs they seem to have a Native breed of but I believe they are not indigenous to the Island but obtained from some Ships that
* Thus, but probably 'Clindon & Stephenson' was intended; the two men were at that time in partnership.
**The word 'mat' is a marginal interpolation; below Markham gives the more accurate rendering, 'cloak'.
*** At Parkieneigh 12 miles above the Heads. E. M.
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have touched there. * They must have come from the South Sea Islands. 20 All the Europeans in the River were glad that the Governor had rewarded Moyterra, as they said it was the first time that a Governor of a Colony had taken any notice of a New Zealand Chief and they thought it would have a very beneficial effect on the minds of the people shewing them that we can reward as well as punish. 21 Mr Butler was Interpreter on the occasion, he speaks the Language perfectly like a Native, being the Son of one of the first Missionaries in the Island, and can turn it any way. He is badly off, and no one knows how he exists, but that is his Affair. 22 We were anxious to get up the River as Oakes and Crow had quarrelled, ergo he was not in good odour on board. He went the first day and took most of his Household affairs, but he was only taken down on Condition that he did not land his Investment till one Month after their arrival in New Zealand, so as not to interfere with Crow and he was obliged to abide by It, as he had made Crow his Enemy from want of Commercial Knowledge, and of Consistancy of Character. Oakes, his Son, Rogers, and the dogs, went up with what they could carry in the Boat of the Brig, but she was too full.
1834 Feby 21st
I went up the day after with Crow & Maclean in Captain Youngs 23 boat taking Venus. 24 The River is a fine, wide, and considerable body of Water, and the place I wanted to be put on shore at was about 30 miles from Parkinniegh. Ships of 400 Tons have gone thirty seven miles up above the last mentioned place. 25 On the left about eleven miles up Maclean showed us the remains of his House and Saw pits and sheds, that had been burnt by the enraged Relatives of the Chiefs that were [Marginal note: Mouta Coudy] killed at that place. Every Goat, Dog, Fowl (and fence burned) ** was killed, and every Log of Timber burned and then Tabbooed or Tappooed (rendered Sacred) [i. e., tapu]. The place is called Mouta Coudy [Motukauri]. About half way up the River on the left, the River narrows and turns to the Left, found a Conical Hill and 17 fins Water there. 26 The Scenery begins from this place to be beautiful, before it was only open but then you get Woods on both sides of you and the River much broader, and although there are deep Water Channels all the way up, yet there are Sands dry at low water, and it requires to go up and down the River, several times before you become acquainted with the sands. We came to the House of a Trader and Sawyer, named Fishwick a Yorkshireman 27 and had a Lunch of Pork and Potatoes and a glass of Rum, and got up the Coko, or Coho [Kohu] meaning Fog in the Mouri language. 28 The place where Oakes told me he had a beautiful House there was such a Scene awaiting me. Eight men, Europeans *** drinking Oakes's Hollands, and only one sitting room and bedroom with bed places built up like a Packet, we called them Standing Bed Places, and I was hungry, but they had possession of the Table, and what was worse the Pork and Grog, and Potatoes; they turned out and fought and I tucked in at the Pork, Potatoes and grog, and when I had dined I found my Temper much better. As before, I wished the Sawyers to serve each other as the cats at
* Capt Cook left Dogs, Pigs &c on this Island. E. M.
** Markham seems to have written first, 'Every Goat, Dog, Fowl and fence was killed', etc.; then, perceiving the error, he attempted to retrieve it by inserting 'burned' and placing the whole phrase within brackets.
*** The word has been interpolated.
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Kilkenny, who eat each other up and left nothing but the tips of their Tails. I got my things into the House and took possession of a bed place, as six of us were to sleep in the narrow slip, the whole not 10 feet long. *
1 Pantry, 2 and 4 Windows, 3 Door into the House, 5 Door of the bed room, 6, 7, and 8 standing bed places one over another, 9 Table, 10 Fire place put up after.
The Above is the plan of little boarded Cottage or House, no Glass, no Lining. I went out and did not care who was licked, but looked on with perfect indifference. They were all fighting at once. I told young Oakes to put up the Pork and Hollands as I wished to get rid of the Visitors, and in the Course of the Evening they all paddled off, and I was not sorry to find them gone. But soon after the Natives mustered in great numbers about the House and became very troublesome, ** as they blocked up the Passages and stunk abominably, spitting every where, and always smoking; for some time, Three weeks I was very uncomfortable. The Fellows thieve so. You can not trust your own Servants. I found them one day melting our Pewter spoons to make Musket balls of, and the first Volume of my Voltaires, "Louis 14. et 15." torn up and made Cartridges of them. It may be conceived how angry I was, and I made them so too, for I caught up a Stick from the Fire and threw it among the Cartridges. Up they jumped as if the Devil kicked them, and most of them went off with some noise. Oakes decided on building a Ware house as in hot weather the Pork did not smell at all pleasant, and I decided on building a room at the end of it for my self nine feet square, which in due time I completed.
I forgot to say that the young Man left at Coko, in charge of Oakes House and property was a Mr Kelly a native of Limerick, 29 and he had entered into partnership with a Mr Manning [Maning] and they sold [Marginal note: entre nous] Oakes Investment he giving ten pr Cent for the same. Kelly I liked, but not Manning, who had come out when a Child and knew no other Country than Van diemansland and his Ideas were as confined as the *** Country he had seen; he turned out, a double faced sneaking Thief. Kelly always did what he could to please me. Manning would have done Honor to the back Woods in America. 30 The New Zealand Forest is beautiful so different to that of Van diemans land. 31 The Amazing variety of Trees, and not one the same as you find in Van diemans land or New South
* The last part of this sentence presents some problems of interpretation: 'slip' apparently refers to the whole bedroom and may be used metaphorically in the nautical sense, 'a space for vessels to lie in', or possibly in the ecclesiastical sense, 'a narrow pew in churches'; in the manuscript the final phrase, 'the .. long', is separated from 'slip' by the key to the plan, but it could hardly apply to the whole building and seems to go more appropriately with 'slip'.
** The Natives lik[e] to see what each Kipooky [kaipuke] or Vessel brings to a Store. E. M.
*** 'they' in the manuscript.
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Dammari [Dammara]Australis or Pinus Kauri [Marginal note]
Wales. 32 The Coudy or Courie [kauri], as it is called, the New Zealand Pine, growing 80 or 90 feet without a branch and then branching out into a pretty Tree, something like the Pines I pinoc[c]hi of Ravenna on the Adriatic. A great quantity of white Transparent Gum is found about the root of the Coudie. I have seen them nine feet in Diameter, and no ripping Saw large enough to cut it as they are but ten feet, so the trees were split with Wedges.
Tanekaha Podocarpus Asplenifolius or Phyllocladus Trichomanoides [Marginal note]
The great Trade from the Hokiangar River is sawn Timber, Potatoes and Indian Corn and Pork. Tarnicar [tanekaha] resembles Coudie in size but is more perishable wood and more yellow, like the Southern African Yellow Wood, and is not so much prized either in Hobart Town or Sydney.
Puriri Vitex Littoralis [Marginal note]
Pouriedee [puriri] is a fine hard wood like Lignum Vitae, grows into immense trees, but you can not get planks out of it as the Worms which are bred in it, make places like Nail holes the size of a Mans finger. They use it for wall plates or bottoms of Houses, Keels of Boats and it might be applied to many purposes. It is heavy and burns well. I met Mr Cunningham * the Botanist at Sydney, 33 but he did not care to find out Trees, only plants. He did not think he was repaid by Forest Trees, but Flowers alone; there is a Noble field in the Native Forests. Kicaitere [kahikatea] is another Wood but not anything wonderful and I have not seen it put to any use.
Kahikatoa Leptospermum Scoparium
Kicaitore [kahikatoa] is Shrub with a strong Aromatic smell, a small leaf with a hard berry. 34 The roots of the tree runs on the surface of the ground. It grows Twenty feet high, **but in general it is not breast high. The appearance is like what in Van diemans land is called Tea Tree Brush and it has a pretty Flower. New Zealand Vine is species of Vine and grows on a tree not unlike an Elder tree; they can make a thick Wine from the fruit, but to swallow a Seed is deadly Poison. The Fruit is between a Currant and an Elder but it is useless in general. 35
Hattay *** or Ettay [he ti] is a Tea tree, quite different to the Tea tree bush, a sort of myrtle; as Parr a Fort and Hipparr [he pa] a Fort in Cooke,
* Since lost when on the expedition into the interior of NSW with Major Mitchell. E. M.
** In the Ravines, the fires seldom hurt them. E. M.
*** The word has been crossed out by Markham.
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is put down The Hip or Hit, * is only the Article. ** Tay, *** it is useless, it only grows eight to twelve feet and the bark rough, and does not change. It seems very often Solitary. Away from every other Tree. It grows at Sydney in the Gardens and most exposed places on the Noren Island. 36 The Mangrove grows in the Swamps and there is good Duck shooting among them. The Embers of Mangrove make the best Charcoal for Gunpowder, at least so I have heard; There are Thousands of Trees. The great variety of Forest Trees as well as Shrubs strikes a Stranger. The Pigeons live on berries of different Trees, and the Natives know what trees to look for them in, some times Pourriedies and also the Toi [tui] bird or Parson. It is dark black with a spot of Green not unlike the Spruleles **** of Caffer [Kaffir] land, with two bands under the Chin of white Feathers, slightly twisted outwards, but more of them in their place, calld Parson birds. Creepers of Various sorts are to be found in the Woods. One is particularly useful. It is like Ivy growing up large Trees, called Hoccar [he aka] and can be easily found in the Woods. It makes the best Boats Timbers I know of. 37 When Green it may be cut like Cheese so easily, and is trimmed and fitted to the Boat, and in three days is as Tough as Iron, and lasts for ever. I was living at a place called Okiarto [Okiato], in the Bay of Islands, at Clindon & Stephensons and they had a Deal Boat builder. He said it was the best Wood for Timbers he knew of. He used Gum tree from Sydney for Keels, Coudy planks, Hoc-car Timber and Kicaitore Knees, sometimes Pouriedie Keels. When the Hoc-car is brought in, It is cut in 6 feet lengths. It has the hairy kind of Roots ***** which most parasitical plants have. It will keep any time in Water without getting [Marginal note: Toro Toro] hard. A Creeper is used for binding up fences, as we would use Rope Yarns. 38 It is soaked first, or used quite fresh, for what is called (atie up) [taiapa] a fence to keep Goats out ****** of a Garden or to answer as a railing.
This Creeper is thin and makes as good a Binder as can be had. In Southern Africa they would employ Thongs of Raw Hide for the same purposes. The
* The word has been crossed out by Markham.
** The meaning seems to be: As 'Hip' represents the article in Captain Cook's 'Hipparr' (a fort), so does 'Hat' in 'Hattay'. The form used by Cook was in fact 'hippa' or 'hippah'.
*** Markham seems to have in mind the South African 'sprew', defined by the OED as 'A bird... characterized by its iridescent plumage; a glossy starling'.
**** Like Ivy. E. M.
***** Eccentricities of punctuation add to the obscurity of this passage; Markham probably meant, 'for what is called a "tie up" [taiapa], a fence, to keep Goats out', etc.
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New Zealanders use it in making their Huts. In tying the Rafters to the Ridge Pole, and in making their Parrs, the same Creeper is used, but I [Marginal note: Toro Toro] forget its name * Toro Toro [torotoro]. An other smaller Creeper is used, several twisted together as thick as a Mans Arm, like a Rope to keep the thatch on Houses. And you see such beautiful Flowers on the Tops of Trees, as you look from a Height down into the Wooded Ravines, but all these kind are great nuisances as you Travel in the Woods, as you are eternally caught by them and if you diverge from the Beaten Track, either to the Right hand or the left You lose ground with those you are with As all Tracks seem to be Pig tracks in the first instance Then the Natives Follow. There is a Troublesome Creeper like a Rattan that some time runs
upon the Ground then rises. In some places you see them riseing straight up to the Branches of Trees like Ropes And the Wonder is how they could get up there as they grow to Forty feet, or even to much greater Heights. 39 They were always in my way when shooting Pigeons, and seemed there on purpose to stop and annoy me, and I vented my Spleen on them in return. There are Numbers of other Creepers but of no particular use. There is a yellow wood tree called Hayroiicar [horoeka]. I have a walking stick of this wood, Twists like a Creeper. 40
There is a kind of Palm Tree, that grows in wet dark shady places, and the leaves are plaited together before they lay on the Thatch one over the other; 41 the Thatch is the Toie Toie [toetoe] a kind of Flags that is used for the Huts, 42 and an other more like what our Coopers use for putting between the seams of a Cask, called Rappoo [raupo]. 43 If a hut takes fire
* Markham originally left a blank space after 'name' and later, remembering the word, inserted 'Toro Toro' here and in the margin.
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it burns as if it had been steeped in Oil. I saw a Hut burnt in a few minutes and the light might be seen for miles. Ferns I believe there are Sixty different Species of Ferns in New Zealand, 44 and whole Tracts of Country are covered with Fern. It is burnt annually and the Missionaries Cattle browse on the Young Shoots. Where Cattle have constantly Trod Grass will Spring up, * but in no part of the Island, will you see Grass, till Cattle have been there. 45 It seems to be like rolling a Grass plot, and you will see on the edge of a footpath a little grass beginning to grow.
The whole face of the Country where it is not Forest is Covered with this Kicaitore and Fern or the New Zealand Flax.
One Species of Fern is Parasitical; the plant is about 6 inches long and grows on Trees particularly in damp shady Ravines. 46 I have seen a Tree feathered like a Bantams leg with these beautiful little Ferns, some have their Seeds on the under part of the leaf. I do not know if this be the case with those in England. Not recollecting to have observed it there. Formerly The Fern was and is to this day an Article of Food to the People and Pigs. 47 The Boys often showed what was best to eat. It ought to be young just coming up from the last years burning. Their Pork is Pigs almost entirely fed on the Fern Root. The Pigs turn up all the face of the Country, particularly where the soil is richest; and are in the most beautiful Order possible from it. I have seen Fern tied up in the Verandahs of the Missionaries huts, from eleven to fifteen Feet in height. I have seen it growing seven or 8 feet myself, but Those very long ones Came from some favored Spots in the Southern parts of the Island and were taken back with them for the sake of Curiosity. The Roots are Terrible; I
* Where the Cattle have fed for some time the Grass springs up and kills the fern. E. M.
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witnessed the breaking up of some land belonging to the Missionaries, or one of their Sons, a Mr Davis, a Dorsetshire Farmer in Former times; 48 the Horses [w]rung their Shoulders and there were 8 of them, each root as thick as my finger.
Rappoo [Marginal note]
Rappoo is a Flag or Marsh Reed, used in England by Coopers to put between Staves of Casks; it grows in Marshes and wet places, and makes a very warm hut or House. The Europeans put up Frames of Houses and door ways and Windows. They sometimes line the Inside with Reeds and Rappoo tied against the frame, making a House warm but in case of Fire very dangerous, as you have no time to save a thing. The Reed gives a finished appearance to the Rooms, which they can never have from Rappoo. Some of the Native Chapels are done this way. 49
Ferns vide Yates New Zealand [Marginal note]
Mr Davis formerly a Dorsetshire farmer is now Head of the Agricultural Farm belonging to the Missionaries at Why-Mattie [Waimate], where they were breaking up land. The Fern roots were like Ropes inch and a half or two inch ropes, and the Plough was drawn by 8 or 6 Horses; some had their Shoulders wrung or hurt from the severe Work. The Climate is lovely and fine Volcanic Soil will grow any thing. The Fern as used by the Natives is the Root roasted, and then they take a Flat and a round Stone and beat it. You may see the Cookee [kuki] * or Slave
Cookee or Slave [Marginal note]
* Merely a Maori form of the English 'cook'. Polack gives this explanation: 'Slaves are also termed kuki from the English word cook, the occupation of the culinary art being confined principally to that class of people.' - New Zealand, II, 110-11.
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doing that, and throwing it to the Chief or Rangitara [rangatira] or his Wife. *
In former times when a Chief died two Cookees or Slaves were killed, that they might Cook for him and roast his Fern root for him on his Passage to the North Cape. Where they had an Idea of some Future State under ground: but I forget what they were to get there but there was a kind of Purgatory. 50
From Feby 21st to 30th of June 1834 [Marginal note]
Coko or Coho [Kohukohu] is now to become my place of Abode, for some time, four Months. The House or as the Natives call it (Wurrie puppar) [whare papa] or Wooden House, The House was built some time ago by a Captain Clarke [Clark] who it seems lived indiscriminately with the Three daughters of the Chief and had a Child by one of them, who, the Mother, ** died of a broken heart or Madness; she became a Cow warrie [kuware] (or Fool, Idiot). 51 The Chief her Father is known by the name of Wurrie puppar [Wharepapa] (or Wooden House); 52 he is Head of the most Thieving Tribe in the River, the Ki tootis [Kaitutae], or Dung eaters as they were reduced to eat their own Excrements when besieged in the Island of Moutetu [Motiti] about a mile and a half distant. 53 Moyterra canonaded them for three days, some years back. He has three 12 pounders, and got some Sawyers to mount them, and build plat forms in his War Canoes.
The Koco [Marginal note]
The Coco, is a beautiful spot well adapted for the River Trade. There was about three Acres cleared by Kelly, before we arrived, and Potatoes in it and other things, but when Oakes got there he made Confusion, Rows and fights. He had a lease of this place from Wurrie puppar, for 6 months but four were expired and he wanted to buy the place, and there was great jealousy in the River about his getting it and long and disagreeable talk took place, Oakes leaving it to Kelly and Manning to settle and when they Purchased it *** Oakes came blundering in, and put an end [to] the negotiations ] for it by some folly of his, got into a rage and made himself so detested, that the Natives told him to his Teeth, that if he got it, they would put (Corpora) [kapura] Fire to it. I have seen that man in presence of Fifty Natives, draw his knife and going to Stab a man for taking out of the frying pan two or three slices of fried Potatoes, as he had never seen them before so cooked. The Men though sitting still and not speaking but their blood getting up, had their Muskets in their hands, and if they had once taken Blood, ten to one all the Europeans on the Settlement would have been shot. That Mad Fool compromised us very often by the Passions he gave way to. For the first three weeks we were much annoyed by Numbers of Natives coming and lounging about and stealing. You can not turn them off and can hardly get rid of them. But no one in the place knew enough of the Language to keep up a Conversation so we had recourse to Jacky Mamont [Marmon],
* I have seen the front teeth worn down to the Gums with eating the fern Root in old People. E. M.
** The phrase 'the Mother' was interpolated later. J Earl[e] alludes to this Island. E. M.
*** NB. Oakes wanted to purchase the place but he had not the means. E. M. ** The phrase 'the negotiations' is inserted in the margin.
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a noted character * who had been on the Island fourteen years, and speaks better than even the Missionaries do. Oakes soon made an enemy of the Man, instead of a Friend, as he is a lawless kind of an Animal; he is mentioned by Rutherford Memoirs published in the Entertaining Library. 54 We had then recourse to others, and some other Trading establishment (Show racky) [Horeke] belonging to Macdonald [McDonnell] and Russel[l] 55 who did all they could to prevent the purchase from takeing place. As they did not see the use of Rivals in the River.
I have seen three Canoes or Walker Mouries comeing. You could hear them on the still water for Miles, and see them paddling a regular stroke, to two or three words. Give way, pull hard, hoy-yah, Toy-dah, hoy yah [hoea, toia, hoea], and some others that I forget now. Of Course getting louder as getting nearer. The Chief standing up cheering them, with a kind of Spear headed Stick, a patoo [patu]. ** New Zealanders are a fine Race of People in this quarter of the Northern Island (Ea hei nomawe) in the Hokianga River, but filthy dirty, stink as bad as Caffres. Their Cacahows are very often lousy, and they rub themselves with grease and Red Pigment and if they can get Turkey Feathers they put them in their Hair, *** And the down of the Albatross in their Ears in addition to their other Ornaments, such as Sharks Teeth, The piece of Iron that the belts or sling of Muskets are made fast to, at the muzzle end of the Stock of a Musket, A few buttons, and even beads. ****
The Face is Tattooed, but Earls faces are the best, And Rutherfords picture in the book intitled New Zealand, In the Library of entertaining
* Rutherford speaks of him having met him at Kipara [Kaipara]. E. M.
**The weapon Markham described is in fact not a patu but a taiaha.
*** The Caffers in Southern Africa do the same. E. M.
**** I have seen a bird just shot down put into an ear. E. M.
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Knowledge. I saw at the Cape a book published by Yates [Yate] the Missionary but did not read it but it struck me that the plates were badly done. 56 Cacahows are now getting very scarce and a Ki tuck-er [kaitaka] or Mat Cacahow, [with] ornamented borders, * is rarely to be seen in the present day. Major Cruise has published a book some years ago, but I have heard he pirated the book 57 and ** Shungie [Hongi] 58 the great Chief that came to England was very highly Tattooed, but they wear now English Blankets both men and Women and the Thicker and larger of course the better. They have no other Costume except a mat which goes round the Middle nearly down to the Knees. I have seen some very fine Creatures and even beautiful. The Breasts are uncovered in warm weather, and an unmarried Woman takes it as a compliment for you to put your hands on them, but if Married you must be careful about taking liberties before a third person, particularly if she is a Chiefs Wife. A Waheininu [wahine nui] or fine Girl always looks out for a Tangata Mar [ma] (a White Man) if he has been any length of time in the Country or a Parkiah [pakeha], Stranger, Tarney [tane] a Husband. As they give the Father a Musket or the Mother a Blanket, and find it profitable to have their Daughters living with Europeans. But I have known a Chief send his Wife to live with a European at the same time saying that he should call for 20lb of Tobacca in a day or two but it was perfectly understood that he could resume her when wanted. All the Sawyers live with the Native Women. In fact it is not safe to live in the Country without a Chiefs daughter as a protection as they are always backed by their Tribe and you are not robbed or molested in that case; they become useful and very much attached if used well, and will suffer incredible persecution for the Men they live with. ***
At the end of the Month Oakes got all his traps on shore from the Brazil Packet She having come up the River to the Mouth of the Oreedar [Orira] River 3 miles from Munghune [Mangungu] the name of the Weslyan Missionaries Establishment, and in sight of the Coco but six miles distant. When the Things were on Shore, All the Sawyers on the River came down, and the Cask of Spirits was brought on Shore. What a Scene of Drinking and Fighting for two days. Eighteen Irish Devils not a bit more civilized than the New Zealand[er]s who were holding lighted Rappoo on the beach that they might fight by the light. I was certainly ashamed that Europeans could degrade themselves so before their New Zealand Boys, but so they did and Oakes was the Cause of it all. Poynton a Sawyer 59 lent me a Boat so I was independent of Oakes for that and Moyterra lent me four Boys or Young Men. I was to give a fig of Tobacca (Rah Tabboo) **** [ra tapu] every Sunday, and as much potatoes as they could eat, some Pork, (and a Boy will eat from 20 to 30lb. of Potatoes a day) and a Blanket each at the end of two Moons, (agreed to). The Boat was Carver [carvel] built ***** and
* The phrase 'ornamented borders' is a marginal interpolation.
** I heard that it was written by a subaltern officer on board who asked him to read it, and that the Major copied it, and published it as his own but I do not vouch for it. E. M.
*** For Instance Harry Pearsons lady, vide -60 & 82. E. M.
**** The bracketed phrase is misplaced; it translates 'Sunday', not 'Tobacca'.
***** The term 'carvel-built', according to the OED, is 'applied to a vessel "the planks of which are all flush and smooth, the edges laid close to each other... in contradistinction to clinker-built, where they overlap each other."'
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I bought Canvass for a Sail, fitted the Mast, False Keel, Bilge peices and rudder so I could go Duck and Pigeon shooting when I liked. And she had her own Pole put down six or eight feet to make her fast to before the door, but Master Oakes covetted both her and the Boys too, and was going to kick and Cuff them. * Moyterra told me when I got them that they were not to be beat or struck and said Oakes should not have them, as he was altogether Notorious for his Rows with the Natives. He being known as the Kangaroo having Trowsers of Skin with the Fur on them like a Stock keeper at Van diemans land.
March [Marginal note]
The beginning of this Month I went up the Mouna Mouca [Mangamuka], or Black flax River Twenty five miles above the Coko, to a Native Village (Kangar Mourie). There are Eleven different Sawyers settled up this River; some bought land, In fact most of it; about 20 Europeans living up there. I went up with Poynton, took 2 pieces of Pork, 2 or 3 Kits of Potatoes, a bottle of Rum. Poynton understands their Customs and is a pretty good Linguist, ** The River is beautiful. Fine Woods on both sides, here and there the Mud banks covered with Mangroves. Shot some King fishers and a Duck or two. As you get higher up the River the Native Settlements become thicker. They are all Missionaries as they call the Christians *** and the Sawyers Houses mostly Weather boarded and lined. Some of them very nice and their Saw pits Sheded over, and Thatched and convenient for Water carriage. As the Coudie Forests is on the tops of the Hills all the way up and down the River. There is something so beautiful in the Rivers in this Country. A Stillness, fine sky over head! no Noise! now and then a Fish will leap or King fisher dart down and a beautiful little Bird called a
Colly Mocko [Marginal note]
"Colly Mocko" **** who flutters about a Flower more like a Butter fly with all his feathers spread so that he looks large, but is not the size of a Wall-nut.
Pea Walker [Marginal note]
There is an other small bird called a Pea Walker [piwakawaka]. The Natives call Russel at Showracky, Pea Walker as he is a very diminutive Fellow.
We at length arrived as near the head of the River as Boats can go, for fallen Timber. At a native settlement, The Chief and Priest for he is Tabbooed, gave me a small hut to sleep in and cut fresh Palm leaves, and a clean Mat for me to sleep on, but in the first instance, I laid down in the front place of his Hut, a sort of Audience Chamber on clean Mat. Venus awoke me by killing a Rat close to me; about Sunset we had Pork and Potatoes and a Glass of Grog and lay down after to Talk by the light of the Fire. The Chief asked a number of questions. I was called a Rangatara tara, or great Chief ***** come to see other Countries, and he asked me if I had a Waheinee [wahine]! No. Would I like one? Certainly. Then take my daughter. Which I did in New Zealand fashion. I took her out of his Womens Hut, She screaming till I put her into the Hut drest out for me.
* Our first quarrell was about my boys. E. M.
** Poynton was sent to NSW for white Boyism. E. M. The Whiteboys were members of a secret Irish agrarian association and were so called because they wore white shirts over their other clothes to distinguish each other during night raids.
***I have seen 10 or 12 cannoes full of Natives go down this River, to the Wesleyan Mission on the Saturday afternoon ready for the Sunday. E. M.
**** 'Colly Mocko' suggests korimako, the bell bird, but the description points rather to the fantail {piwakawaka) which Markham goes on to mention.
***** A mistranslation; the only complimentary meanings of tara that fit the context are 'quick', 'active', or 'distant'.
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The Row ceased and no further opposition was offered. Next morning we all went about 7 miles inland to a large Settlement To see a New Zealand Wake. I crossed a Stream a dozen times, mostly on a Mans back called a (Pekow [pikau] is to carry Upanga [hapainga], lift me up). * I shot some small birds by the way. We had to go through Cultivation mostly all the way.
Tarraw or Yam [Marginal note]
Indian Corn, potatoes and Cumeras [kumara] or Sweet potatoes, Tarraw [taro] a kind of Yam. The Tarras comes I believe from the South
sea Islands. It grows about three feet from the Ground but it is not good. I was very fond of the Cumeras, and Venus got so knowing, that she used to go and Overhaul all their Canoes for them, as they keep them cold, boiled. The land was rich on all sides and plentiful Crops of Maize or Indian Corn. Numbers of Immense Trees sticking up here and there half Burnt and blackened, in the midst of the Corn and showing that it could not have been in cultivation many years, having been all Forest. At last we came to the Village and were received by the Dogs in advance, but we
Peaches [Marginal note]
found some two or three hundred people sitting about in groups. I had Peaches given me in quantities, and have no doubt that some day the Natives will have all sorts of Fruits and Vegetables. On arriving I was requested to fire my two Purra [tupara] as the Natives call a double barreled Gun, in honour of the (Mattie Noue) [mate nui] dead. She was a young lady, who had been living with a Man named Cockrane [Cochrane] a Sawyer. 60 She was to be buried the next day, and we saw her laid out on a Mat with her Cacahow over her as if she was asleep, with her Hair drest out with Feathers. You often see a red Box in which the Bodies are put, till
Tabboo or Tappoo [Marginal note]
the flesh is rotted off. 61 Then the Priest scrapes the bones, or some people are Tabbooed for the purpose. When people are Tabbooed they are fed by Children, and they must not touch food with their own hands. There were people crying and very like an Irish howl going on, and plenty of Potatoes scraped. The place was a dead Flat in a Valley of high Wooded Hills on either side. I then took a walk round the settlement. A fine running stream over a gravelly bed winding through the Valley. Near the
* Though the meaning of this sentence is fairly clear, punctuation and syntax are even more defective than usual: pikau means to carry on the back; hapainga is the passive form of hapai, lift up, raise.
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Huts were plenty of Peach trees with Peaches on them. I saw the Potatoes on (Wutters) [whata] for the first time; there are two sorts, one is four upright Posts, 20 or 30 feet high and floored over like a hurdle so far apart that they can get their hands Through, and the Potatoes are in Kits * or Baskets said to average 60 lb weight. They are drawn up and stowed and then Thatched over for some Months till They are wanted. The Rats attack them so that they have hit upon an ingenious plan of putting bark all round the upright Posts and trees, and the Rats get up into a kind of Extinguisher all round the Tree or Wutter but the Rats can not mount. Air being given from below they keep well. I have seen a Wutter or Plat form 80 feet above ground in an immense Tree all the Branches cut off and a Platform well secured, and the Potatoes on it and thatched over. 62 They have no Frosts of any consequence to hurt them during their Winter, but I know to my cost, it is very Cold and I enjoyed a fire very much during the cold weather. The Natives wanted Venus as she was very much admired at this settlement. I was very much afraid of losing her. We returned the seven miles but found the Tide, ti Puddie [taipari] or Ebb Tide, ** had
made so that the Boat would not float, so we staid that night. So we Cooked our Pork and Potatoes, drank my Grog and took a Stroll. I was delighted in seeing Miss Awattie *** [Watea?] having a Swim, previous to her taking up her abode in my Hut this night. No noise this evening; like a good girl she was awaiting her Lord; in the morning we had Potatoes done the Native way. I had to pay for my Nights amusement and asking Poynton how it
* Markham may be using the Maori kete, 'basket made of flax', the English 'kit', meaning knapsack or valise, or a combination of both; the similarity between the two words and their respective referents has added to the New Zealand idiom a distinctive term of which this may be an early example.
** The Maori phrase literally means flowing tide.
*** The 'A' which Markham prefixes to this and other personal names is probably the vocative 'E', corresponding to the English 'O'.
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was to be managed, he advised me to give my Shirt so I took my Shirt off and gave it to the Priest her Father. A Box of Lucifers to light the pipe of her Lady Mother. A Pocket handkerchief to the young lady herself. And wishing the Aimable Family Good day returned down the River to the Coco, with a beautiful breeze. There was a laugh at my Expence at the Coco, about the Shirts and my Boys told the others and they were very Facetious on the Subject and every body knew what I had been about up and down the River.
Coppre [kopa] Mourie, or the Native Ovens are described I rather think in Captain Cookes Voyages. They are done this way. They scratch a hole 8 or 10 inches deep and two Feet in Diameter and then light the Fire in the hole; when the fire is at its best They cover it all over with Stones The size of Potatoes or what you would put on the roads in England.
They are well heated and [when] the fire dies down a wet cloth of Mat is put round the edge. The Potatoes having been scraped with Shells, are laid on the hot stones. A small Calebash of Water is thrown over the Stones & Potatoes and fire first taken out, a tremendous steam arises, and a wet mat is laid over all and then covered up with six or seven inches of Earth,
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left for three quarters of an hour, and then they are beautifully done so you see these Potato Pies. The Natives now begin to use Iron pots, known to them by the name of, "Go on Shores," * from the circumstance of Boats going up and down the Rivers, coming to an Anchor and going on Shore to Cook, but the Natives prefer the Old plan and I think they are right. When they kill men they Cook them in this way. Pork requires two hours, but Human Flesh four. One day dining with a Sawyer up the Oredou [Orira] River he had a beautiful sucking pig done in the Copper Coppre Mouri; helping me he asked me if I would have some of the stuffing. I of course said yes, when to my surprise he took four or five hot stones from the inside and enjoyed the joke.
Cockle sauce [Marginal note]
The Dog was a bit of an Epicure in his way and gave me a sauce of Cockles done in hot Lard as there is nothing else in the Country, so one learns to go without. Monsieur Oude [Ude] does not give Cockles and Pig together, and I do not recollect eating them at Verry's [Very's] or the Caffe de Paris; at Rome one must do as they do at Rome, but Hokianga is different. 63
Pippies Cockles [Marginal note]
I have many times made a grand Meal in a Kanga Mouri or Native Village on Pippies [pipi], sitting round the Coppre Mouries, each helping themselves till all was done, then I would give the Natives, a dram of Rum to wash it down.
Why Pirah Stinking Water [Marginal note]
It used to be called Why Pirah [waipiro] or Stinking Water. Now they call it Why Pie [pai] or good Water. They like now to get Showrangy [haurangi], or drunk if they can. The Young Ladies learn to like it on board the Whalers' in the Bay of Islands.
Talking of Pippies, they tell a Story of some Chiefs or Rangatara's at a Sharkatty or Feast; the subject of Conversation was, what is often talked over, who was the prettiest Girl in that part of New Zealand. A Gourmand Cut a Joke, which cost the people in the place very dear. He said that the Whyhienee [wahine] or prettiest Girl, was Why heckie [Waiheke] in that part of the Country. Now Why heckie was the name of a bed of Pippies or Cockles, in the River. In consequence of this Pun which was considered so good was that the Cockles were with all due ceremony, Tabbooed to the use of the Chiefs, and the people of a Village obliged to migrate to an other part of the Coast in consequence of the Gastronomic punning Rangatara. Oh Tempore O Mores. Up the Mouna Mouca River I saw at a Settlement a Number of people with Bibles, and one face a Woman's extremely Handsome. She told Poynton she would have liked to have lived with me, but that she was Tabbooed to a Chief who was going to Marry her. I forget her name but one evening, one of my Boys came and told me that, a Waheinee pi wanted to speak to me. She got out of the Walker Mourie and came into my Room, and gave me an hours Tete a tete Tabbooed or not, and then she went up the River. I provided her with Pipes and Tobacca.
* Elsewhere Markham uses the more usual form 'go ashore', probably a corruption of the Maori 'kohua', a vessel for boiling food by means of heated stones.
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March 5th 1834 [Marginal note]
At Last this House and Grounds was purchased by Messrs. Kelly and Manning, the boundaries perambulated, and Marks set up and defined, as Oakes could not afford to buy it for his Son as he had wished. * Two Coppies made out, one translated into Mourie by Butler and the payment made of 2 Casks of Tobacco 170lb each, 1 Keg of Gun Powder, 25lb. and 1 double barreled Gun and some lead. Whole days had been consumed in making the Bargain, as that Genious of Discord, Oakes, undid by his mad interference all that had been agreed on.
That Old Cannibal Wurrie Puppur Chief of the Tribe of Kitouties, sold the land belonging to his Grandson young Clerk [Clark]. Captain Clerk was drowned going down to Parkeneigh; he had broken the Heart of the Mother by taking another Sister into favor & discarding her. The Weather since I have been in the Country has been the most Heavenly that can be imagined; had I had the ordering of it my self, It could not have suited it better. As the Tide serves, I some times bathe twice a day, and Venus swims off to me and tries to get upon my back scratching me not a little. Fine and Moon light Nights I go and sleep in the Bush as the House is full of Fleas, Mosquitoes and Sand flys or Nammouies [namu]. They bite and make bad places on New Comers, but when perfectly acclimatized they leave you alone. I sleep out at night under two large Pouriedie Trees, and Venus will have her share of the Blanket, but any thing is better than the House.
Fish is very fine here. Partikies [patiki] or Soles, are speared with a Bayonet or a stick at night the flood tide coming in; the Boys go in the Water six inches deep and hold blazing Rappoo over their heads, something like Salmon fishing in Scotland. Mullet is very plentiful and Snappers, and half a dozen different kinds of fish. The Natives understand the use of the Seine Net as they have been seen half a mile in length as a whole Tribe will have a grand fishing Match, but for Europeans who do not know the customs of Tabboo's it is rather dangerous, ** Each Family will contribute its quota of 100 fathoms; it is made of Koraddy [korari] or Flax undrest split green and worked up. They make Baskets or Kits as we call them for Potatoes and A Chief or Head of a Familly has a clean basket made of
Koraddy for his plate of potatoes or Indian Corn boiled every meal.
Indian Corn in a Putrid state or state of decomposition [Marginal note]
The New Zealanders have a most unwholesome food, Indian Corn when green or half ripe; it is good plain boiled or baked in the ashes, but they will throw down in the gravelly bed of a running Stream 500 heads of Cobs of Corn at a time and leave them for two Months until the Cob or Core is completely rotten. The Corn stinks terribly in this state when they eat it boiled. The Consequence is they have Scrofula or Consumption and is one reason for the decreasing Population. 64 Another is that now they live down
* New arguments in conveyanceing propounded, vide appendix, page 53; 3 new claimants. E. M.
** Marians [i. e. Marion du Fresne's] people were cut off in consequence of breaking a taboo; each family adds say 20 fms of the Net. E. M.
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by the Water side instead of their Parrs on the Tops of Hills, as they did in Warlike times, being now in Humid wet places instead of being elevated above the Fogs and Malaria. *
Half Salted or dried fish [Marginal note]
Their Fish too is often half dried and eaten in a putrid state having been dipt in Salt water, and dried in the Sun and taken no care of. ** They dry the Pippies, Mutton fish, (Snappers, Shark &c for their Feasts. The Wife of one of the Missionaries told me that if one of their Servant Girls gets a Cough they quite tremble for the consequence, and they are so thoughtless. I have seen people shutting themselves up in their Huts with a fire and their eyes Watering from the smoke, and some of their Woods stink very much in burning for instance the Caraceer or Cracker [karaka] as we call it, which Tree has a fruit with a Kernel that is kept till it smells sour and nasty and then they eat it. The Smell of the Cracker smoke impregnates the Cacahows with this sour smoke and Tobacco also, as from the Child at the Breast (Tomities [tamaiti] *** Children) to the person just going their last long journey of Death,
Tobacco current Coin [Marginal note]
They eternally smoke Tobacca, and all the Europeans down there do the same. If you send a Boy with a Note he has a fig of Tobacco, or doing any thing for you if he does not belong to you the same; to get a Man to go out to Fish for you you must give him Tobacco.
Blankets worn as Clothing [Marginal note]
An other cause in my opinion for the prevalence of Consumption arises from their Blankets as I have seen a Man with three Blankets on almost all Summer, but a distant friend came, he gave him a Blanket, a relation came, he gave him a second, and when the Winter set in, He was ill from Cold, as he was worse provided for then than he had been in the Summer. They use them at all times for Clothing instead of keeping them for the bed, and the Wind in the Winter blows through them. **** A cold dry piercing Blast in exposed situations. The last month I was at the Hokianga was very wet and dirty, I have often scraped a Ton of Mud off the floor with a Hoe, but in the Bay of Islands it is much drier and more delightful in Winter; to be sure an Easterly gale there is bad, but you have them only now and then. The Hokianga is the Western Coast, and the South West winds from the Southern Ocean is cold as Charity in Winter.
Sunday [Marginal note]
I went to Munghune the name of the Wesleyan Missionary Establishment to Church with Oakes, found him a bad God father. We heard a Chief speaking to his Country men a few words and Morning and Evening Service was performed. Mr Whiteley & Mr Woon
Mr White from Darlington
The two Missionarys 65 asked us into a small Cottage built by Mr White the Principal, a Carpenter by Trade; he was on a Tour to the Southward, at Whycatto [Waikato] where he is pitching on Two places for new Missionary Stations. 66 There were two hundred people there this morning. The Missionaries Houses are very comfortable. We had a piece of Bread and a glass of Wine. I thought we were coldly received at first, but soon they took me on one
* They lay down on the Ground not Elevated above a foot of High Water Mark. E. M.
** Fish is some times hung over the fire to get smoked. E. M.
*** The haliotis or paua.
**** Of which the plural is tamariki.
***** They light fires inside their huts and make it like an oven, then get into their cannoes and get a sudden chill. E. M.
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Oakes [Marginal note]
side, and told me that they should be happy to show me any Civility in their power, but that I was in company of a very Indiscreet Man to give it the mildest term. I thought Mrs. White rather a pretty looking Woman, and [at the same time met] Mr Cunningham * from Sydney, the Colonial Botanist, in search of Flowers. I should say far from a good field for them but Creepers and Climbing plants by Hundreds. He said he did not care for the Forest trees and that is decidedly the finest Study in this Country. Whitely and Woon invited me to come next Sunday. I accepted their invitation and returned with Oakes. We employed ourselves for four or five days in making a Verandah to our House. It was as good as an other room to it and in Working in the garden and putting up Fences. I bought three Goats and their kids from Butler, so we had milk to our Tea, but our Flour was all out and we had no Biscuit or Bread for nearly five Months. The Boys called the Goats Nanny Nannys and the Male Billy and [were] very fond of them. I began to get tired of Pork and Potatoes but for nine Months I had to live on it, and I at the end did not wish for change. Salted it is best, but we tried different plans about it and killed two and three at a time. I spoilt it by putting too much salt petre into the Pickle and tried to make it keep but the heat would not allow that in general. Duck and Pigeon shooting with Fishing were our grand amusements and that was our only change from Potatoes and Pork, Pork and Potatoes where ever we went.
Porka Porka [Marginal note]
Their Pork is a great article of Trade. I got for one Blanket, two large Pigs 200 lb each and three smaller ones for an other. Every pig has his name in the Native Villages and they are sent out as in Germany, and come home, and are put in to their own Hut or Styes, and given three or four heads of Indian Corn. The Sows at stated times go into the Woods, and find their Lords and having done Rural for some time return to more Civilized life and better food and bring up a squeaking Family fully proving that they had loved. Vessels come up the Hokianga and buy and Salt all the Pork they can, say 20 Tons at a time and take it up to Hobart Town and Sydney, and have got 60£ a Ton for what stood them in three or four and in the same way they have bought Potatoes at 12/- a Ton and sold them for 12£, but then only small Vessels come, and it is Cent pr Cent upon halfpence, and the Sawn Plank is very cheap in the Colonies and lately there is some prejudice against the New Zealand Pine. 67
Pigs in Barter Potatoes the same [Marginal note]
They give five large Pigs up the Whyhoe [Waihou] River for an old double barelled Gun and they barter for most things now. The Natives give Potatoes even for bars of Soap and ten Kits of Potatoes for a spade and five for a Hoe. The Tasmanian Lass passed down to Hobart Town. Oakes and Manning went on board. I wrote to Hewitt to say that I should send back to Captain Bannister the Hundred Sovereigns with which I had been intrusted, As the accounts Oakes had given him were too highly coloured as he deceives every person connected with him. 68
Browns House [Marginal note]
There is a Comfortable House belonging to a Man of the name of Brown a run away Convict, 69 as most of my friends are of that Class, such as Poynton a White Boy, and Oakes wanted it; he not being very Serious told him he would let him have it for a 100£ Cash. Oakes when in Hobart
* Lost in the Interior of N S Wales when on a tour of discovery with Major Mitchell 2 years afterwards. E. M.
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town told it to Captain Bannister the Sheriff, and he met me the morning I was going to join the Brazil Packet, and requested a few minutes conversation and put a 100 Sovereigns into my hand together with a letter of Instructions for my guidance to buy if I thought it advisable The House and Lands and Boat of this said Brown. I saw the House and garden a mere Island, and the House was of no use whatever without the Forest that belonged to it. And he could get three hundred pounds for that, from people in the River and could not be of the slightest use to Bannister, so decided on sending the Money back to Hobart Town, by the Brazil Packet when she should sail.
Kelly and Manning built an other room to the House, as a Warehouse, soon after I arrived * I commenced a small room nine feet square and made progress, and then got two young Carpenters to finish it when it stood still for a week in consequence of Moyterras Sharkatty or Feast, about to commence. 70
Sharkatty or Feast or Harkatty [Marginal note]
I wanted to see the sort of thing and went with three or four Men to see it and found at Parkineigh 20 Europeans who were Guests of different Chiefs. One Man said this is my Father in Law Sir put up here for the three days. The Encampment of 3000 to 4000 New Zealanders ** all armed and scattered about was a curious sight. The Number of Canoes, Women and Children. I found myself quietly seated with my friend the Priest from the Mouna Mouca River, and his Family and in the Evening a Temporary Hut was got up by Madlle Awattie and things took their usual course.
1st day
The Feast was about to Commence. Moyterra *** mounted on Oakes' old Mare came on the ground. Rubbed Noses with the Chiefs and Europeans and then proceeded to distribute his Potatoes, Baked Pigs, Sharks, Mutton Fish and Pippies dried, and a Cow had been bought and killed and cut up. **** Moyterra had some 4000 Bags of Potatoes stowed in long line, three bags high like a wall; supposing them to contain 60 lb each kit worth 18£ a Ton, they were computed to be worth 2000£ in Sydney Market, independent of the Baked Pigs spread Eagle fashion with toutes les Agremens. He served out the Potatoes to the Chiefs, according to their followers, and when that was done, The Potatoes were carried to the different Encampments, and speedily each party was hutted, or put up Huts, and then Cooking began for that Evening; next morning Pork and Potatoes was the order of the day, and I had brought salt and Grog so I was all right, the Fleas and Mammooes [namu] very bad. About noon the different Parties mustered to the amazing number of 3000. Men in Squares, nearly every man had his Musket, some with Swords, and Paddles and sprang up on one leg screeching, Yelling, Sweating and Makeing, Every horrible Contortion of Face and Limb that can be conceived; there were four or five Divisions from 3 to 400 in each, Moyterra in his Cloak and Sword, mounted and standing General on the occasion. They all moved upon the Beach and acted Sham Fights, running here and there in compact
* The words 'soon... arrived' have been interpolated and almost certainly modify 'commenced'.
** They put up tempory Huts, for Cheifs familys. E. M.
*** With boat cloak and sword. E. M. This marginal note clearly refers to Moetara, and 'boat' seems to be adjectival, perhaps meaning 'naval' (though it is described elsewhere as 'Military') or possibly 'brought by the boat'.
**** Vide 61 the Plunder of the fortitude. E. M.
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Masses or Squares Yelling and screeching and springing up from the ground, and throwing the Butt end of the Muskets into the Air, and making the very Sands tremble, then squatting down on their Hams, and fireing Ball Cartridge. Only one Man was wounded in the bottom and one killed himself running along the Beach; he empaled himself on the point of a Canoe end on, and did not see it he being in the middle of the Square. My figures are not quite in the style of Penelli [Pinelli] 71 but you must draw on your Imagination. Fancy all naked and greased all over, with Red Pigment, Their Bushy hair Matted, greased and dressed with Feathers, Through the Ear Albatross down, and the Gentlemen having their Bottoms well Tattooed, as well as their Faces as I have (entre nous) had occular demonstration; by the bye I believe Aristotle never wrote on the subject. Since Europeans have lived among them, they have had Hearts and Darts, Ships, Stars, Half Moons, &c &c in addition. The Skin of a well tatooed backsided Rangatara was very much prized to cover the Cartouch box of the Conqueror, and would be again if a War was to spring up. This day was spent in War dances, my Face was over with Pigment as the Sawyers looked up to me as a gentleman, Telling the Chiefs I was a great Rangatara in my Country, and being of a jolly portly figure, They all did me the Honor to Rub their Noses against mine and when doing this Tenir racky qui Ecrow [Tena ra ko koe, e koro!], How do you do Friend. Heremi checonay [Haere mai ki konei!] Come hither; they gave me some Whi-pi or good Water as Rum is no longer Called Why Peeter [waipiro], or Stinking Water. The greatest compliment you can pay them, is to take a Potatoe out of their heap or Basketful, while it is hot. I was very condescending to the Tangata Mouries.
Reindeers Tongues [Marginal note]
I had a few Rein Deers Tongues, that the Natives beleives were Mens tongues, we had killed and salted in our own Country; they liked them, and all the people knew that I was a Rangatara, I was so dainty, that I brought even the Tongues of my Enemies to eat, and that they knew were a great delicasy and fit for a Chief. I used to try to draw a Deer with fine Antlers, but all to no purpose, they had never seen or heard of such a Beast, and thought that I was Humbugging, and "Shanrica" [hangareka] was repeated often meaning a joke, or Humbug. *
The Evening they had different dances, contortions of Features in two lines; generally they keep it up all night if Moon light. The Ladies enjoy these Feasts, as they have glorious opportunities of Intrigue, and old Friends meet at these places and you may see Women meet and throw a Cacahow or Mat over them, one & other, and commence a whining cry or lamentation, but they relate every minute particular that has occured to either since they met, though they have been two or three years absent.
Roody doody [Marginal note]
The Women will sit on a heap of Potatoes or log, and do what is called "Roody Doody" [ruriruri]; ** they divide in two parties if on Ship board. The Captain and Ladies belonging Officers will sit aft, and the Mens Ladies forward, and will recite in a kind of fixed time or Verse, Recitativo, all the transactions of the people round them, and sometimes not of the most modest sort; then she that is going to take up the verse at the other
* On the back of my hut with a burned stick I drew a fine galloping stag but I never convinced them. E. M
** The word is defined in Williams as a song, 'generally of an amorous nature, accompanied by gestures'.
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end of the Ship keeps time with her fists or some lascivious movement; * so on, they will keep it up for hours together and work each others passions up, as to the different abilities of their temporary Husbands, all the Scandal of the different Parrs or Native Villages and of the Europeans up and down the Country is recited, some times from one ship to an other.
The Raising of the Dead [Marginal note]
The Raising of the Dead was the second days amusement and the meaning is this. At a Feast they always raise the bones and scrape them, and dress them up in their Cacahows, of their Friends. This Feast was given to a powerful Chief Called Apee [Pi] 72 of the Why marr [Waima] River an ally of Moyterra's, and the bones of the Eleven Chiefs, Shot at Mouta Coudy some thirteen Months back, were to be drest and all the good and Noble Virtues of the deceased were to be Eulogized in "Corrirow" or Council talk.
The Eleven Chiefs [Marginal note]
They went in a kind of Procession to it and the Red Boxes or Coffins were shown and you saw the eleven dead Chiefs with their rusty Muskets by their sides and drest in Cacahows and Feathers. By what I could learn they would be shown eight or ten times again at stated Periods then be taken up into the Mountains, and put in the Caves, the Burial place of their Tribes. 73 For I have heard of Eight Men being Tabbooed to go on a journey to bring home the Body of a Chief that had been killed 300 miles off and be away two Months. After seeing them ** at a Respectful distance They formed a Council or Grand "Corrirow" or open Parliment. There is a place left in the middle of this sitting Congregation, three yards wide, by ten or Twenty long, and the assembled Crowd sit down in their Cacahows, or slop Clothing, Blankets &c. The Chiefs and Freemen nearest these open places where they run up and down, and women and Cookies or Slaves in the back Ground - the Men with sticks - strike the ground at certain periods - they are Priests.
Vide Earle 161 [Marginal note]
They sat down between two and three thousand and heard the different Speeches of the Chiefs. The Priests or Bone Scrapers, Tabbooed Men, with long Sticks standing at one end of the space left for the Orators to run up and down, as they get worked up into frightful animation. As the Chief addresses the Assembled Chiefs, he turns to the Men with Sticks as much as to say, "Is it not so", Then they strike the ground. ***
The place chosen was as Natural an Amphitheatre as could have been found, and rather Sandy surrounded by Hills of small Elevation rather open to the River, and the Ferns had been burnt some Months before Ergo there was a young crop. The different Chiefs ran up and down giving their opinions; one said he liked the "Parkiars" or Europeans and said he would protect them. An other said they made good Poos [pu] or Muskets and Blankets, and other wise remarks; at last Moyterra **** with his Military Cloak, and Sword on, but the Belt over the Shoulder, addressed them and one of them read the Translation of Colonel Arthurs letter (from Oakes representation) in the Mourie language, and they were pleased on the occasion. I forgot to say that he had such a terrible Fall yesterday from
* After 'movement', the phrase 'of her bottom' has been crossed out.
** Presumably 'them' refers to the remains of the 11 chiefs.
*** These Priests and [Bone Scrapers ?] were the only Men standing except the man that run backwards & forwards who was addressing the Assembly. E. M.
**** Moyterra is a friend to Europeans in general but he is a troublesome Neighbour. E. M.
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The Mare [Marginal note]
the Mare, she not likeing to stand fire. For the last three days, People who have never seen a Horse before, have been riding and been thrown in every direction. The "Karaddie Nue Nue", or Big dog that their Chief Moyterra has had from Hobart town is the wonder and her Foal by her side; they ride all day long, and it amused most of them [when] Apee Chief of the Why marr River to whom the Feast was given, got a fall. He had 50 Gallons of Rum so they improve in refinement. *
War Canoes [Marginal note]
Moyterra gave him also two War Canoes, that are 60ft long and carry 160 each, much Carved and painted or stained Red, & decorated with Feathers, and similar to those described by Cooke in his Voyage. The Upper sides carved and painted, The Eyes of Men all of Mother of Pearl ** and plenty of Feathers done round and every Man has his Paddle, as he has his Musket. The Evening was spent as the former in Dances, but on the Bank of the River and as a Grand Finale about 50 of the New Zealanders jumped into the Water with a tremendous splash.
The Third and last day we had a scene very different, Eighty Women dancing a Slow Monotonous Step, but graceful movements of the Arms. *** The Mats were round their Middles and the Upper part exposed all their Breasts &c but I never saw a finer set of Women or Girls in an Opera Ballet. They were in two divisions Moyterra's Tribe, and the Tribes about the Heads, and also Apee set, their Visitors, Forty in each division, **** Ten in each row, two lines advancing about two inches at a time and two lines retrograding, Naked to the Middle and useing the Arms with slow but graceful Movements, The People on the Ground keeping up a Monotonous Chaunt in good time.
Cunnu Cunnu [Marginal note]
The name of this Dance Jacky Marmont told me was Cunnu Cunnu [kanikani] and was Religious. ***** All the Chiefs Daughters danced it, and no Slave Girl was allowed to enter the Ranks. It lasted for hours; till the Sun set they must not eat; during the dance I found that Madle Awattie was one and they had a master of the ceremonies, and fugle Man to each division; they kept it up till sun Down, but the last few hours one Division sat down for half an hour, and they releived each other; some of the women had flowers in their hair and even Combs as the European fashion of dressing the Hair is very prevalent, and some of the Women were nearly as fair as Europeans--when the Dance was over then the cooking began.
Arungher [Marginal note]
I made a Conquest of very superior Being to be known hereafter by the name of Arungher Mar [Rangi? ma] or the Lady Arungher; ****** [she accepted of my protection a week after and proved a very affectionate Creature and good Girl and she watched over me night and day. She was the daughter of Ere-woah [Iriwha?] the Chief of Widdy racky [Whirinaki] about five miles from Parkineigh.
* Rum to be distributed at the Harkatty. E. M.
** The eyes were, of course, those of the canoe carvings, and they would have been made of paua shell.
*** A dance calld Karne Karne [kanikani] or Cune Cunee. E. M.
**** Markham has interpolated 'set', thus adding to the confusion of an already confused sentence. Perhaps he meant to say, 'They were in two divisions: first, Moyterra's tribe and second, their visitors, made up of the tribes about the Heads and Apee's party (or set); forty in each division, etc'
***** Only danced on occasions of ceremony. E. M.
****** Markham seems to have interpreted honorifically the particle 'ma' which is used after personal names to indicate the inclusion of others.
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A soaking [Marginal note]
The third Night as Miserable as could be. A Thunder Storm came on. It Blew and Rained, I was all afloat and as miserable as a Shag on a Rock. All the Night Cold and Comfortless, our Hut blown down and no Shelter of any sort but had to wait till daylight as it was dark as Pitch. I was cold wet and had to paddle about till at daylight I crawled in at Apees * Hut and a Glass of Rum did wonders. There was a fine fire inside; I went in wet and came out smokeing to the Hot potatoes for breakfast.
Salt all melted [Marginal note]
My Salt was all dissolved in my pockets, but I found enough for one Meal, but I have often experienced the want of Salt, as the greatest deprivation possible as Potatoes or Pork are miserable without it. The next night I went down to the Heads to Martins the Pilot, had a bed made up and slept with a Man of the Name of Battersby; 74
vide 83 [Marginal note]
he keeps a Grog Shop at Kororadica [Kororareka] in the Bay of Islands, proving the Truth of the old saying That Misfortune makes one acquainted with strange bed fellows. I slept soundly after a walk of Eight miles by the River side and after Breakfast went back to Parkineigh, heard of the Infidelity of Awattie, dismissed her forthwith and told her she would call at the Coco she would receive a Blanket as a Hout.
In this Country if you did not make use of the Sawyers you would be quite at a loss, as they act as Interpreters to the different usesages [usages] and customs of the Natives and going up the River I had often occasion for their Hospitality Ergo "Suaviter in Modo" goes further than a stiff neck. Heard this morning that some Chiefs were going to get payment for the Coco again in addition to Wurrie Puppur or they would bring a Tower ** [taua] "for[c]ible seizure" or would perhaps set fire to the House. We got the loan of three boys, from Mittie [Miti] 75 a Chief next to Apee of the Why Marr River, and manned the boat and got up in one Tide (30 miles) found an Old Chief by the name of Rivers, 76 demanding payment or he would burn the House down. Mr Oakes had sent for Mr White the Missionary from Munghune and I showed him Captain Bannisters letter &c. The Affair was settled.
1st Claim 2d 3 [Marginal note]
There were three Claimants, here the first Rivers had been shot through the Thigh there, and it had never been revenged (He had two New Shirts and 5 lb of Tobacco). An Other had had his Father killed and eaten on the spot; he had, A Hoe, a Spade, Shirt and 5 lb of Tobacco. The Third was that his Father in former times set his Rat traps on the Ground.
Rat Traps Boundaries [Marginal note]
Mr White told me, that was one of the best Titles to the land, that could be set up, as the Natives had no other boundaries but the track of the Rats, and most boundaries through out the Wooded part was only where the Rat traps had been set. 77 The Native Rat was more like a field Mouse, and was considered a Luxury in old times, but the Rat from Norway or England came and is called Rah Parkieah or Stranger rat. They have exterminated the Native therefore there is no longer any use for the Rat traps. They do not make use of the New Comers who get at their Potatoes, Indian Corn &c. The Sawyers tell the Natives when in Anger, They will exterminate the "Tangata Mouries" as the "Rah Parkieah" has the "Rah Mourie". And some seem to think that the Missionaries pray to the Attuah [atua] "Spirit or God",
* Apee the Chief of the Why mar River to whom the feast was given. E. M.
**Tower a foray for an Insult or Injury. E. M.
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decrease of Population [Marginal note]
to Kiki [kaikai] * or "eat up" the people, as they seem to be a fast decreasing People from a dozen different Causes which the Missionaries lay all to the Sailors and Europeans that visit the Islands in the liberality, but it is the same in the Islands all over the South Seas and there must be some deeper cause as you may gather from that Lyeing book Ellis's Polynesian Researches, which eminates from the same Republican London Missionary Society and the same as Dr Phillips [Philip] lies in Southern Africa. 78 I received an Invitation from Mr. White to go to Munghune, found he came from Darlington.
March 16th [Marginal note]
I went to Munghune for the Morning Service, found they adopted the Church Service as usued [used] by the Church Missionary Society, shewing the good sense of dropping Sectarian principles although they are Wesleyans. ** There were about 250 to 300 Natives present and the Responses were made as regularly as they could have been in England. They were all reading the New Testament in their own Language. Mr White preached; Mr Woone [Woon] has a beautiful Voice and led, a familiar tune, then to the Air of God Save the King. Then an Old Chief of the name of Martanghie [Matangi] 79 got up and preached all this in the open air as the Chapel is not large enough; after Service Mr White gave me Martanghies History.
Martanghies History [Marginal note]
He had been a Warrior, Murderer, Cannibal, Thief, in fact as bad as a Man could be; He was ill and came to Mr White 3 different times who talked and reasoned with him; he returned finding he had two hearts a good and Evil, that he found a Conscience.
3 Warnings [Marginal note]
He had three warnings and went to Mr. White each time such as a Cancer in his Lip, a swelling of the Head, and loss of sight. Each time he came to Mr White, and each time was more impressed with the Religious discourse.
returns to his first Wife [Marginal note]
At last he came to read, and write, and cipher; he had several Wives, he had not seen or spoken to his first Wife for years; he put the others away and returned to a Beastly Old Hag, proving the sincerity of his profession, and was now a thoroughly changed Man, and like Saul was baptized Paul. I dined and attended Evening Service and went home at 8 o'clock, pleased with what I had seen. The Scenery about Munghune is fine; Hills covered with Wood, and the Sun setting on 300 New Zealanders praising God in their Native Language to one of our well known Tunes in the open Air had something about it quite affecting; I forget the Chapters for the lessons in the Morning, but in the Evening they had one, the first Chapters of Genesis and the 26th of St Mat[t]hew.
I read with the Carpenter a Yankey known by the name of Juniper Jack, a Rum Fish; we had Tea and at nine o'clock I returned to the Coco, and saw under our two Pouriedie Trees, two large Fires. I heard they were Missionaries and went up to them; they went through the same Evening Service and the same lessons as one offered me his Bible and we read together by the fire fight. I could have fancied myself amongst the Covenanters, in the time of Old Mortality. Thirty Tattooed earnest Faces, reading and singing by the Fire with their Muskets across their Breasts, and then an old man gave them an Exhortation. *** There was
* Strictly speaking, this is not a Maori word but either a rendering of kakai, eat frequently, or merely an example of pidgin Maori.
** I believe the Wesleyans are the most friendly to the Church of all dissenters and are on good terms here E. M.
*** He recapitulated the Heads of Mr Whites sermon leaning on the Butt end of his Musket with a blanket on; as he got animated his figure appeared to great advantage. E. M.
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nothing to be gained to these Men, No Worldly distinctions, Vain praises or Pomp. They laid down and slept where they had prayed with their Arms in their hands, quite a Bivouac. Salvator Rosa never had a finer subject. 80 The dark gloom, The light on the two large Trees under which they were encamped has made a lasting impression on my Mind. Since then I heard that there are not less then ten Thousand * people in the Island that can Read, write and do sums in the Northern end of the Island. 81
March 26th 1834 [Marginal note]
It rained and blew hard for the whole day and was as Miserable as could be. The two Carpenters could just get on with the bed place &c in my room, as the Rain beat in every direction. For two hours it blew a perfect Hurricane. Trees were torn up by the roots, and at last it blew the roof of the House off.
saving the Boats [Marginal note]
Every thing getting Wet, and at last the two Boats stationed abreast the House parted from the Posts put down for them ** and we and every person about the establishment went out to try to save them. It rained and blew a hurricane, and every person sallied out naked and we succeeded in keeping them clear of the Rocks. We lost a Canoe, but to secure them I was out two Hours, the Wind blowing the sand and Gravel into ones Flesh. My Feet were cut terribly and a wet bed and House to retire to, All The Thatch blown off, raining, blowing and very Miserable, The Sunset the most Awefully Grand I ever saw. I have seen many Gales of Wind but this out did all!
effects of the Storm [Marginal note]
Next Morning every thing showed what we had been visited with. The Morning lovely and serene. Wrecks of Boats and Sheds going up and down the River. The Island of Moutellie *** an hour before Sunset looked like a Castle. The Water was blown out of the River, The Wind from the East. Thirteen Vessels on shore in the Bay of Islands and all the Sawyers Houses damaged, Sheds blown down, pits full of Water, whole Acres of Forest laid like Wheat after Rain;
Island of Moutellie [Marginal note]
Moutelietie **** in high Tides is about two feet above the level of the Water and not more. It is very sacred and contains the bones of the Tribes up the River, in Houses or Huts built on purpose, and is now a deserted Parr. 82 No person had seen or heard of any thing like this Storm for seventeen years. 83 The Road that had been cut through the Wood going to the Bay of Islands was so completely covered with fallen Trees, That the Missionaries could not use it on Horses, when I left six months after. I was in the Marchioness of Ely in 1823, when we were water logged, or next to it and I think The wind was nearly as strong as it was now. The Having saved our Boats on the present occasion was a good thing for us. It took thirteen of us to accomplish it.
April 1st [Marginal note]
Oakes that Genius of Discord and his Son and Harrison set out for Wangerpaye [Whangape] to stay a Week, and in the mean time I went to Hoe mi-neigh [Omanaia] with Manning and Poynton. I was away three
* For fear of exageration say 8000. E. M.
** This and the five previous words have been interpolated.
*** Markham undoubtedly refers to the island of Motiti, but 'Moutellie' looks like a rendering of 'moutere', meaning island; perhaps he confused the proper name with the noun, and the curious form, Moutelietie*, used below, may be a combination of both words.
**** N B it is all stuff that Earle says about the Native fortifications of this little Island distant about 1 1/2 mile from where I lived. E. M.
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Ho-mi-nie [Marginal note]
nights. I went up a fine river say 25 miles, 84 at last came up to a Parr, we were well received, had Pork and Potatoes and sat up late answering questions. I slept in a place built of Wood weather boarded, 6 feet [by] 4, a good Pig Stye. When gone to bed I found the Chief had sent a Wayheinee [wahine] pi to sleep with me, and I was good humoured and took Compassion on the Lady.
Gun Powder [Marginal note]
Next morning to my surprise I found Eleven Casks of Gun Powder. This was the Hotel de Ville and Public store, but being a Rangatara they had given it me.
Homi nie [Marginal note]
There was a large fire burning all Night within three yards of it, and people looking in with pipes in their Mouths. No Salt again! We staid two nights here, and Manning and Poynton bought Pigs and Potatoes. The Land is very fine. As to Scenery Beautiful! plenty of Wood in every direction and Peaked Hills on every side and pretty Country.
Arungher [Marginal note]
My Room finished, got in all right. Arungher Mar came and took up her quarters with me, and proved that her Heart was as good as her Face and Figure. She lived with me till I went to the Bay of Islands. I do not know that I ever cried in parting from a Girl before except one in Paris; from this time Arungher went out shooting with me, holding the Gun in her hand, and Venus in her lap and sat at the bottom of the Boat whilst I steered. When in the Woods she looked out for the (Coo Coupers) [kukupa] or Pigeons, and had a sharp eye. She always had the fat to dress her fine long Hair with, and I taught her to dress it with Parisian Fashion. She never left me, told me every thing and watched over every thing of mine, as if they belonged to her own Tribe. I have sent her presents from Sydney. A Wine glass of Grog makes her Showrangy. She was as good a Washerwoman as could be, and was as clean herself as any European Woman could be. She washed from head to foot with Soap, every night before going to bed, her dress was 4 slop Shirts, Black silk handkerchiefs, 3 red Shirts altered into Panny gots or Petticoats, a Blanket or Cacahow. Her hair always well dressed, and she killed Venus's Fleas. I gave her a Pup to keep for "Auld lang syne". She could say all The Church prayers by Heart, play a good game of drafts, and Swim like a Fish. I have seen her swim to Moutitie [Motiti] and back and she saved my life when engaged with Amittie [Miti] by bringing me my Pistols and Flourishing a Tom a hawk over his head, but of this in its proper place. The plan annexed may show the relative places on the Hokiangar or Schue kiangar [Hokianga] River. * The Beautiful Forest in this Country after the Monotony of Van diemans land was very pleasing, and would be highly prized for Parks in England. Oakes returned having been absent ten days, not much pleased with his Trip, and having parted with a quantity of his property without any return. He sold his Mare to Moyterra for 600 Acres of very good Land, but he is at the tender mercies of that gripeing Thief Moyterra and his bloody minded Brother Rangitara [Rangatira]. 85
vide 82 & 60 [Marginal note]
Oakes has no Water frontage, ergo, no Native can sell to Oakes without crossing Moyterras land, which would not be welcome.
Cumeras [Marginal note]
He, Moyterra, is to build a slop House, after the Cumeras are gathered. Every Person is Tabbooed for that purpose in the Village. Moyterra has 4000 Kits of Cumera, besides the Common seed store. They stow them neatly in Sand as we do Carrots then they are Tabbooed for seed. They eat like sweet Potatoes. I was obliged to Caulk
* A blank page follows, with the caption, 'Plan of Ho-ki-angar River.'
