1963 - Markham, Edward. New Zealand or Recollections of it - New Zealand or recollections of it [Part Two], p 57-85

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and pay The Roof of my Room a second time with Pitch and then cover it over with cinders from the Armourers forge, but made it comfortable at last. Oakes takes all his Traps down to Parkeneigh and stows them in Moyterras House, and makes him drunk every Night. We went to Show-racky to get some more "Go ashores" or Iron pots, for Household purposes, tin pannikins to drink out of. Then went across to Tom Styles to see the Schooner of 90 Tons he is building in the Oreedarr River. 1

Industry Wrights Otterigo [Marginal note]

Then to Wrights 2 The Blacksmiths at Otterigo [Otarihau] the Mouth of the Mouna Mouca for some Iron Work. Venus near her Confinement; when she is ready to Travel I mean to go to the Bay of Islands. Mr Craigh well educated from Haddington near Edinburgh died of Fever from Drink, he having given himself up to it.

Mr Craigh Funeral 32 Europeans attended the funeral April 18th [Marginal note]

I attended his funeral, and Thirty two Europeans at Munghune, but Mr Woone did not read the Church service. He had a Wife in Hobart Town and his Investment all gone from drink. 3 There are about seventy Europeans scattered about the River up and down. 4

I received a Note from Mr White requesting my attendance at Munghune on a case of encroachment. I met on the occasion Messrs. Mitchell, 5 Russel[l], Southey, Gibbon and Fishwick and the three Wesleyan Missionaries.

Collin Gillies [Marginal note]

We assembled in the school House, and discussed the Title deeds, and gave our verdict in Unison with the Missionary's viz that Collin [Colin] Gillies had encroached on the property of the Wesleyan Missionaries and a warm dispute ensued; one of Gillies friends known on the Hokiangar River by the name of Tom the Thrasher Swore and was turned out of the school room. 6 Some fun occurred; Gillies said he did not care a Straw in disagreeing with all hands, but Mr Markham as he was a Gentleman above the Common, and in consequence there was a Laugh at my expence; dined with Mr White.

April 24th [Marginal note]

Went to Tom Styles to get the New Boats mast and sail altered, got home late, Oakes had taken every thing he could away to Parkineigh where he is plundered by his Friend Moyterra.

May 14th [Marginal note]

Heard that Mr. Busby the British Resident had been shot at in his House at Why-tanghie [Waitangi]; 7 they concealed it for six months, but were found out the day I left New Zealand in H. M Ship Alligator Captain Lambert; went up to Mitchells for a day or two shooting Ducks. Pd. Rees £4-0-0 for the House. 8 Been Naughty lately shooting Ducks on a Sunday with Kelly and Manning, killed three brace.

May 14th [Marginal note]

For the last Ten days miserable weather, squally and Rain, House cold, wet and Muddy, determined to build a Chimney New Zealand fashion. Went up to Otterigo for some slabs of Coudie, rafted them and commenced the Uprights. Fire place 6 feet square, lined with Stone and Mud 6 feet high and many a Blazing Fire I have had inside and did well with it; we found we could cook much better in the House than in cook house (Couter) [kauta] and by doing so we always had a boy at hand and our meals were more regular to time, in consequence, and I think cleaner in every respect; the Room was much dryer in consequence of the fire; we kept lat[t]erly the Natives out more than before; Manning was afraid of loosing his popularity with the Cheifs.

June 1st sawn planks [Marginal note]

Kelly and Manning had been lately up the River rafting Timber on account of Oakes As the Sawyers paid Sawn planks at the rate of 8/ the

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100 feet, 1 Inch thick and eleven inches broad. Some times I was left for three days together and I remained with Arungher and Venus to look after the place. On one occasion like this, when they had taken the last piece of Pork out of the Cask, and all that was Cooked, I lived two days on Potatoes, as we had been out of Flour and Biscuits for a long time. I had lent them the Boat and Boys, therefore I was the only Man in the place. I got Hungry and determined to go out and shoot a Pig so I loaded a Musket and took the Bayonet, and told Arungher to boil the "Go ashore" and Tea Kettle, and get the things all ready full of Hot Water "Why weirah" [wai wera] for Pig killing. For ten days I had been suffering from the Rheumatism in my ankles, but I was all right again. I went into the Marsh on the other side of the Parr, one Mile from the House, and Venus soon began in the Ferns, Reeds and Rushes to put up a Pig, and I fired, down came the Pig and I stuck it and bled it in the Heart with the Bayonet.

Shot a Pig [Marginal note]

Then the Query was how to get it home, so I pulled out my knife and gutted him, and Arungher came and carried the Musket, and I had to drag the Pig 170 lb weight up a Hill, and for a mile before we got it home. Then came the Work of cleaning him and it got dark, so as I was hungry I cut a clean leg off, and left it till the morning so Arungher and I had a Pork Cutlet for Supper and about eleven both Boats returned with the Raft, they had been aground with it and had eaten nothing for four and twenty hours. They were not sorry to find that I could help myself when hungry, as they profitted by it, that night and they cleared the rest of it next day. Kelly and Manning had got a large Pile of Timber ready to go to Hobart town and all the Sawyers paid up their debts in sawn Timber.

Brig Amity [Marginal note]

The Brig Amity [arrived] with Captain White, Mrs White, Mr Lamb, Groves of the 63d Regt, Camble [Campbell?]; Lamb was Super cargo on account of Rowland the Man who had advanced Money for Oakes and sent an investment of £600 well salted for the Hokiangar River. 9 I bought some things, as I had come here for three weeks and had been four Months in the Country; I was beginning to tire fast during the Winter, Wet, dirty and laid up with Rheumatism, Arungher my only Consolation; Manning was a low minded savage. I went in the Emma Kemp Cutter to Parkeneigh to see Lamb and Groves Old Friends.

9 Ton of Pork [Marginal note]

The Amity came up soon abreast the Ko-ko [Kohukohu] to Load, and Camble sent to buy Pork, and they killed nine Ton of Pork. The Night we were on board It came on to blow. The Amity lost a Whale boat that Night, found her smashed upon the Rocks next morning; met Oakes on board and did not speak to him. I went back in the Boat, Poynton sold her, and lent me an other for the short time I had to remain. Venus nearly ready to Travel.

Row with Amittie [Marginal note]

I had a tremendous Row with Amittie * a Renowned Chief a very vain Cannibal; he had been away on a sneaking expedition to the Southward and he and his three Companions brought home Thirty two heads; since then he has become very troublesome. I was looking at some Fowling peices, sent up to buy Pork with, when we had got rid of our Stinking Guests, all but two, as the house had been full of them, when a Boy, I took for a Cookey or slave, came in and wanted to light his Pipe at our fire. I said "Arrey gitty Couter Maco Pipo." ['Haere ki te kauta me to paipa. '] Go to the Cook house and light your Pipe and I turned him back.

* The 2d chief of the Why-mar River. E. M.

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The Enraged Chief, Amittie, * was the boys relative, came and tried to wrench the fowling peice out of my hand, tore the Shirt off me, and wanted to wrestle with me on the Beach which was Muddy. ** Then he flew at his Musket, and got that, and would have shot me, but I held the Muzzle up, but his two Companions inside, as their Blood boiled their Nostrils distended, Cocked their Muskets and he had seventy men outside in two Canoes.

Arungher brings me my Pistols [Marginal note]

In the Middle poor Arungher ran in and said "Tenne [tend] Markhamo" and put my pistols into my hands, and put one hand on the head of Amittie and flourished a Tomahawke. When I clapped a pistol to his Breast and the other at the nearest Friend, he lowered the Musket and said it was "Shanrica" Humbug, but I kept my eye on him and put my Pistols in my Pocket. ***

Threatened to eat Amittie [Marginal note]

Arungher in the Mean time was up on the table and caught him by the Hair a great indignity and swore if he touched a Hair of my head she would eat him and all his Tribe; the Sawyers present who were listening to her, kissed her, and swore there was not an other Woman in New Zealand with a Soul like hers.

Arungher [Marginal note]

Then I turned to her, kissed and Thanked her. The poor Girl threw her Arms round me, and sobbed aloud. I got rid of Amittie and went to my box. I had a Garnet Ring that had been intended for a Chere Amie in Hobart Town, but as it might have caused Suspicion, she refused to accept it.

Gave her a Ring [Marginal note]

So I put it on Arunghers finger; her delight knew no bounds, as she had often wanted it, but I told her it was for a Waheinee Parkiah, European Woman, **** but then when she had it she was proud to be the Whyhe Pi [whaiaipo ] ***** of a Rangatara Parkiah. I gave her two gown pieces from the Amity and she seemed drunk with delight. She was beautifully formed and had a Head that a Sculptor would have liked to have a Cast from and the Ring had its Charms. She was the only Woman in the River with one, and did Crow about it. Amittie came in and made it up with me before he left. I took Groves out shooting constantly and he was much on Shore with me.

June 13th [Marginal note]

I lent Kelly £50 and gave him an Order on Hewitt and Gore Hobart Town, as poor fellow he had been kind and civil to me. Manning I did not care for.

June 23d [Marginal note]

Asked Groves, Parker, 10 and Kelly to discuss with me, the remaining two Bottles of Wine (Claret) in honor of Miss Sarah Markhams birthday. 11 Parker made Arungher jealous by telling her the name of Waheinee Pi in England, that I had been drinking the health of. She did not by any means like the idea of my leaving the Country. The next day her Father Erowah [Iriwha?] from Widdy Hacky [Whirinaki], came and gave four large Pigs and we gave him a Blanket and one to Arunghers Mother, and a pound of Powder.

I passed the time and often dined with Groves and Lamb on board the Amity. Oakes and I had a terrible Row before Lamb, and he again with

* 'Amittie' is a marginal interpolation.
** Two Sawyers present saying dont strike him, for your life Sir; he also drew his tomy hawk which I caught hold of. E. M.
*** I opened the pans of their Muskets and threw the primeing out. E. M.
**** The last two words are a marginal interpolation.
***** Meaning sweetheart.

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Kelly and Manning; he is a dirty mean Beast. Roger's is Gone as Schoolmaster to Clindon's Establishment at Okiato in the Bay of Islands.

June 30th [Marginal note]

I took leave of the Koko or Coco [Kohukohu], gave the Goats to Kelly pots, pans and Tubs &c. Parker and Manning said they would go up the Whyhoe River with me.

Engage Nicholson as Interpreter [Marginal note]

I engaged Nicholson 12 from Otterigo to go across the Country with me as Interpreter as he knows many of them; Arungher went with me to Why-hoe. The Native Boys wished me good bye; I gave them each some thing and away I started, waving to Groves and Lamb, on board the Amity, saw Oakes and hope never to see him again, left Parker on board a Cutter called the Alexander MacCleay, and Manning went to the Showracky with me, and we started passing Jacky Marmonts fine House, and sleeping that Night at Dutch Sams, 13 the Boat builder, * so as to arrive at high Water at the head of the Why hoe River. It rained all night; the Centre of the Island is high wooded land.

Parting with poor Arungher [Marginal note]

In the morning had such an affecting Scene to witness and through poor Arungher crying and hair all flowing, Cutting herself with Shells, and bleeding all over, when the Boat was ready. I could not help shedding a few tears for my unsophisticated Friend.

Parted from Arungher [Marginal note]

She took her Cacahow off and threw it over me, sitting and crying and not to be comforted. I had a great mind to take her with me, as I expected to be only three weeks in the Bay of Islands, and meant to visit the Church Missionaries, I thought that I should be better with out her, So poor Girl I left her, may she be happy! I gave her my Sheets, 3 Blankets and a new Gown, and she cut her Sharks Tooth ** and gave it to me, the Greatest Compliment a Girl can pay her "Tarnee [tane] or Husband". We have not met since; I have sent her some things from Sydney.

There was considerable Interest excited in the River some time before I left. Moyterra's Brother Rangatara had lost his second Wife she was (Mattie moiy) [mate moe] dead, and by the New-Zealand Law, the next Sister supplies her place The Next was the only Daughter of an Extinct Tribe, she was living and had lived four years with

Harry Pearson [Marginal note]

Harry Pearson alias Doubleday Son of Major Doubleday of the Durham Militia and her Mother pretending to be ill, they sent for her to Parkeneigh, where she was a Prisoner for nearly a Month, but she would not leave Pearson At the end of the Month he would have used Violence When it would have been Death to her to have gone back, She made her escape, and after taking an amazing round she got up to the heads of the Mouna Mouca River and was a week with him, when there happened to be a drinking bout, at which Harry Pearson assisted,

Looses her

while he was away, Rangatara borrowed a boat and boys and waited till it was an hour after dark just the top of the Flood, dashed up, ran up to the House forced it open, and took her by Main Force away to Parkeneigh ***and there she became his Wife He said the reason he did it was Harry Pearson said He would have Shot him if he could come at him, but he lost her for Ever! Major Doubleday had been writing to Mr White, the Missionary to try to get his

* The last phrase is a marginal interpolation.
** They wear sharks teeth dangling from their ears. E. M.
*** met them taking her away she crying and sobing. E. M.

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Passion for Drink! Plunder of the Fortitude [Marginal note]

Son home, saying he knew his failing, Drink! and for that he gives up his Inheritance, to live this Wild kind of Life. *

The Affair of the Fortitude belonging to Clindon and Stephenson is told thus. She got a shore near Mouta Coudy, and New Zealanders have some curious ideas as to Property. If a Ship anchors in the middle of a stream she is safe, but if she gets aground they consider it fair game to plunder her, and a full manned Canoe, boarded then tied the Crew in the Rigging and plundered her of a lot of things. They appealed to Moyterra, who mustered his Men, and went to have a Corrirow with these people. High words ensued, when one fired his Musket then, at it they went. In half an hour Twenty two Chiefs were shot, they counted their dead and cried "How you now" [heoi ano] (enough). There was a Cessation of Hostilities, some plunder was restored but they killed every thing on the place, burnt and Tabbooed it, So that MacLean lost all that he was worth in the World, 600 pounds worth of goods and the House. He was useing Interest with the Chiefs to have the Tabboo taken off but to no effect. And the Eleven Chiefs whom I had seen were killed at Mouta Coudy.

leave Dutch Sam [Marginal note]

I now Commence my Journey across the Island to the Bay of Islands 14 as Cook named it. ** Nicholson and I left Dutch Sams, and got up to the heads of the Whyhoe River. The Chief Nimini *** [Nene] 15 was gone in some other direction.

Boys to carry my Traps [Marginal note]

Then came the Rub to get Boys to carry my Traps. As I required Six to "Pekow" or carry, and had the greatest difficulty to get them carried to Jacks the Sawyers on Captain Youngs Establishment **** and paid four Boys a fig of Tobacco each for their Trouble, and such Mud Clay to go through.

one runs away [Marginal note]

I was done by one Boy who had engaged to carry my things to Kiddy Kiddy [Kerikeri] and I gave him 2 lb of Tobacco but he ran away and after him went Nicholson and Jack; they recovered six out of 24 figs, and spit in his Eye and called him "Tangata tihi" [tahae] Thief and returned, and Jack exerted himself and got five Boys to Pekow the Traps across at 2 lb each to Kiddy Kiddy. A Beautiful morning and off we started.

walk through the Forest [Marginal note]
vide 35 [Marginal note]

I was walking nine hours good in the Bush. I forded or was carried over a Stream nine times to avoid Peninsulas. Then up again into an almost impervious Forest where you could not see the Light of day in consequence of a kind of Lily a sort of Parasitical Plant that has so much Root hanging down all keeping the Sun out, and as there is more damp there than in other parts of the Forest, I suppose they thrive more there than in other parts of the Island but they are to be seen every where in the Forests; at a distance they might be taken for Rookerys only I never saw them so thick. [Blank space left for drawing with caption, 'Tawara Astilia Angustifolia']. 16 I understand that the leaves die down every year, and hang under the branch and look like roots of some lily or Hyacinth, and they can only exist in a humid climate among the hills, as fog or clouds are seen to hang on the tops of these Hills.

* This highly involved paragraph has been presented as it appears in the manuscript, for the addition of punctuation might in certain clauses distort rather than elucidate the meaning.
** The Natives call it the 100 rocks. E. M.
*** In the manuscript the word was originally 'Ninni' or 'Nenni' which, through the addition of marks that are still visible, was altered to 'Nimini'.
**** 2 miles above where you land in the Whyhoe River. E. M.

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Crossing to Kiddy Kiddy [Marginal note]
Souple Jacks [Marginal note]

The Pig Tracks or Paths the most miserable possible for my Feet, holes up to my Knees in Mud, next a Sharp root, and so I kept blundering on, The Soles of my Shoes coming off, and my feet sore. Korradie or Flax, Vines, Rattan and number of other Creepers crossing the Path and Tripping one up, every minute, only seeing the Sun when crossing the River. Although a fine day The drip from the Trees was like a Shower bath constantly. I was Wet to the Skin.

get shelter and Food [Marginal note]

We came to a Solitary Hut in a cleared Place beautifully situated. Here we put up for the Night, as I was dog tired, wet, hungry and Thirsty first Hot and then Cold. * My Traps went inside, and in an hour some Pork and Potatoes from a "Coppre Mourie" came in Smokeing with the Korraddie Baskets, and at it we went. I had my Salt this time, and I made a good Meal with Appetite Sauce, and then Nicholson and I had some Grog, and I gave the Chief and his Wife some, and did not feel quite so Miserable, but Oh! such a Night to pass;

close packing [Marginal note]

Men, Women and Children to the amount of Twenty five people, four dogs beside Venus in a room. ** In the Evening they having all had a good blow out of Pork and Potatoes, and such a fire of their favourite Wood and so close and foul, from the number inside and a Fire also, And the Nature of their Food. Knowing you would be Lousy in the Morning but it rained hard or I would have gone out side to pass the Night.

Washing in Publick [Marginal note]

At day break I went to Wash my self, to the great amusement of Men and Women who all came to see me. *** I was not very particular before them as I knew they, the Ladies and all, would like to see the whole of me. They showed the Remains of a Pig which had been wounded some time before. It had been killed and measured six feet long.

proceed [Marginal note]

We got the Things out and had breakfast and started in half an hour. I gave one lb. of Tobacco for the use of the Hut, and the Pork and they seemed well Content. § In half an hour we ascended a Hill, and got on an open plain, fine foot Path, through fern country undulating and quite pleasant for the Feet.

Thirty Miles [Marginal note]
Kirri Kirri to Kiddy Kiddy [Marginal note]

So I trotted on Thirty Miles to the Mission Station of Kiddy Kiddy, 17 but the Missionaries in their writings exclude the "D" from their Language because the Letter 'R' will answer as well in some Districts as Kirri Kirri, and Wirri Nacky [Whirinaki] instead of Widdy Nacky Thus making the Language poorer instead of enriching it. ****

We arrived at Sunset and I went and took up my quarters at the Missionary's Carpenter's and I enjoyed my Supper, as I was dog tired. Nesbitt [Nesbit] 18 told me he had positive Orders not to allow an European in the place, as on some other occasion when he was absent, some Men came I believe on a Sunday, and kicked up a row, So he had Orders not to give Shelter to any one, but he said for all that he would not turn

* I had been 9 hours on foot blundering on through this Forrest some times scrambling over fallen trees. E. M.
** At Night a report of a Musket was heard and the head of the hut fired out of a scuttle or Musket in return - he said his Brother was at the edge of the Wood. E. M.
*** The stream here was small but the same we had crossed 9 times the day before. E. M.
**** In the hut that night they robbed me of the shot belt. E. M.
***** The latter part of the sentence is obscure. Markham seems to be criticising the missionaries for reducing the spelling of Maori to a uniform system which ignores local variants in pronunciation: for example, the 'd' sound of certain words in some districts is universally represented by V in missionary Maori; thus they impoverish the language instead of enriching it. J. S. Polack presents a similar case rather more lucidly in New Zealand, 2: 279-81.

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Tobacco [Marginal note]

me out. So I paid the Boys all a fig each, and slept soundly. I went from Kiddy Kiddy to Kororadica which is distant Twenty five miles in a Native War Canoe. 19 They are larger at this side of the Island than on the Western and I paid 3 lb of Tobacco for the Trip. On leaving the place I was much amused at the Men having taken the Feathers out of the Missionary's Turkeys, and they dressed their Heads out "Walker pipe" [whakapaipai] very fine. In three or four hours I took up my quarters at and surveyed Kororadica, Hell as the Missionaries call it.

at Xmas [Marginal note]

It certainly is a loose place when the Ships are in Harbour. 20 Some Sunday's 300 Men, from Thirty Whalers, have been on shore with their ladies and many a Row takes place. I found Alexander * very kind and obliging, 21 saw Mr Mare [Mair] and Pouditch [Powditch]; 22 things here were Cheap and comfortable. I should have got on badly in walking but for a Stick belonging to Jack the Sawyer at the head of the Why hoe River. As my Ankles were very Weak. The plains were covered with Fern or with Tea trees or Kicaitore, in the Gullies high Timber remained, and now and then the stump of a high Tree in the plains, showing that repeated fires are the causes of the clearings.

The Boy set fire to the Fern [Marginal note]
Elastic Gum [Marginal note]

Before we left the place where we had been eating some Pork and Potatoes, one of the Boys set fire to the dry Fern and it may have burnt for miles, and we saw lumps of Clear Coudy Gum which is always to be found about the roots of the Coudy.

nearly useless

It softens in the Sun and is elastic like the Indian rubber, but it requires so much oil to make it soft, so as to be able to pay the bottom of a Boat, or do the Outside of a House with it as renders it nearly useless.

July 5th Okiato [Marginal note]

I went up to Captain Clindons to see Rogers, and was told there was a skilling ** for me, which I readily accepted. 23 The Natives call him "Dueterra" the Lizard from being harmless. 24 I called at Mares and Powditchs; in walking round the Environs of the Village, Alexander showed me the spot where He and Earl and Duke saw the Girl that had been shot, and eaten, and the place where the Coppre Mouries had been made. 25

July 6th [Marginal note]

Sunday I went in too late for the morning Service at Pihere [Paihia] the Missionary Establishment in the Bay of Islands. I was introduced to Mr Chapman and Mr Wm Williams. *** The former a Catechist, the latter the Revd. who was formerly a Surgeon but is now in Holy Orders; dined with Mr Chapman, met Mr Williams, found them both pleasant. 26 Mr Chapman acted as School master to some fifteen Boys sons of the Missionaries, till the Regular one came out. Mrs Chapman a very lady like person, and I often went there after wards. Mr Wm Williams shortly after this went to the Southward. I went to hear Evening Service.

2 Revd Mr Williams [Marginal note]

There are two Revd Mr Williams Brothers, Henry and William. The Natives know him by the name of William Broder. Henry was formerly a Lieutenant in the Gallatea [Galatea]; he knew Jack Markham and Edward Kelly, 27 and was first or second Lieutenant of the Shannon, and took home the Chesapeake after that Action; he is liked by the Natives and has done a

* Keeps the It Grog shop. E. M.

** An obsolete term meaning a small addition to a cottage.
*** The Revd Wm W is known to the natives by the name of Broder being Brother to the Revd Henry Williams. E. M.

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great deal of good as a Missionary. * I took a round in company with Mr O'Connor and Mr Stansfield, 28 dined, and went afterwards to Okiarto.

Okiarto July 7th [Marginal note]

I took up my quarters at Clindons Skilling which was about a foot larger than the one I had at the Coko, and here I established my head quarters till the 25th of October 29 when I went on board the Alligator to Sydney. ** I was to Mess with Stephenson and Robson but they and Rogers, were going over to the Hokiangar the day following, so for the first week I messed with Clindon till their return. Venus took kindly to her new quarters.

July 18th [Marginal note]

Robson and Rogers returned from the Hokiangar River. No news. Clindon wrote a Note and I took the opportunity of calling upon Mr Busby the British Resident. He received me civilly and told me the news, and it seemed I was doomed to stay for four or five Months in the Bay of Islands as no Vessel was likely to go to Sydney for that time and now I was anxious to hear from England. The Bolina Captain Dacre

Newspapers from Sydney [Marginal note]

30 came in, and Clindon had a set of Newspapers from Sydney, saw the death of Mr Wardle [Wardell] from Bush rangers. 31 I saw Mrs. Busby and liked her; he asked me to dinner next Sunday after Church to meet there.

Sunday I went to Church and afterwards home with the Resident to his House Why tangie as he is three miles from the Mission Station of Pihere. 32 There were in the Chapel about 200 Natives besides ten or fifteen Europeans, and 30 Children belonging to the Missionaries, Male and Female, as Pork in defiance of Monsr Oude seems to be Amorous food, as the Revd Lieut Henry Williams has nine Children. 33 The Missionaries draw from the Society 10£ for each, and rations up to the age of fifteen years, when they fall on their own resourses how they can.

Bread the first for 5 Months [Marginal note]

Busby's dinner The same as any other in the Island, Pork and Potatoes and we had Bread the first I had seen for five Months, and a bottle of Port, A rare treat in these days. I slept and staid that day, walked over the Ground he has bought, and looked at some Cattle and a Mare he has got. The River Why-tanghie is navigable for a Boat for about two miles then you are in a beautiful Basin and a Water fall of Thirty feet. This is on the way to Why Mattie a Mission Station. Pihere is on the other side of the River. I give a plan of the Bay. Cook was enchanted with it and were there any Town or Buildings I know no place that could be prettier; the three or four houses built with brick and stone and a chapel - at Pihere look well from Kororadica 3 1/2 miles distant. 34 [Blank space left for plan.]

The Trees cut down [Marginal note]

The Bay was prettier formerly as the Islands were covered with Wood, but the Shipping has cut it down, and the Brush wood is not high enough, and there is a want and scarcity now; 80 Sail in a Year 35 here require Wood and Water and other Refreshment. Dr Ross 36 came and dined and Mr Stack as the Missionary from England with a pretty Wife;

Mr Stack [Marginal note]

She was Daughter of a Wesleyan Preacher at Islington; *** He, Stack, had been in

* Till the Revd Mr Williams came to New Zealand the Mission had made no progress. E. M.
** Okiato is about 6 miles from the Mission Station Pihere. E. M. Another exaggeration: the distance by water is little more than 2 miles.
*** The Father did not give his consent and Stack run off with her. E. M.

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New Zealand formerly as a Wesleyan Missionary but now as a Church one. 37 The Weather had been beautiful for some time past and [I had gone] walks in every direction. Now in Ho-kiangar there were few or no walks * only Boating. Mrs Busby is very pleasant, he is rather too formal, and Religious for me to be quite at my ease with, but was particularly kind and civil. I found the Monotony of the other place terrible. I was Cook every other day, Robson and I took it turn and turn about, and I was pronounced best Cook by all who partook of it. N B Too many prayers at Why tanghie, but the Port was good, and the Reception good and a glimpse of Civilization. Be it known, I went there often and found myself a welcome Guest. He has not Devil enough for the situation. It requires a Man of some Nouse. ** His Orders are few, his duties undefined and his Instructions few. It seems Lord Goderick [Goderich] appointed him, and sent him to Genel Bourke at Sydney for Instructions and he has given none; he will not take on him self to administer an Oath (Mr B), as he is not Consul, but Resident, but if he had more (Suaviter in Modo) he might do any thing. 38

Native Women live with Sailors [Marginal note]

The Missionaries hate the Ships to come into the Bay; the Reason is this. Thirty to five and Thirty Sail of Whalers come in for three weeks to the Bay and 400 to 500 Sailors require as many Women, and they have been out one year. I saw some that had been out Thirty two Months and of course the Ladies were in great request, and even the Relations of those who are living as Servants with the Missionaries go to Pihere and bring them away, in spite of all their prayer lessons. These young Ladies go off to the Ships, and three weeks on board are spent much to their satisfaction as they get from the Sailors a Fowling piece for the Father or Brother, Blankets, Gowns &c as much as they would from the Missionary in a year. Therefore they prefer going on board the Ships "Kipookys" when they come in, to the annoyance of the Missionaries. *** I believe the Missionaries are right, that They go too young, and are very often Barren, and that is one Reason of the decrease of Population independent of any disease they may get. They have very few Children in the Villages, and to the Southward of the Island The Missionaries found they had Thousands of Children for every Hundred here.

Chiefs often married to Those who have been in Whalers [Marginal note]

It is a curious Thing that the Chiefs have married of late years often the Girls who have been living on Board of Whalers, and I do believe the Sailors have done as much towards Civilizing the Natives as the Missionaries have, or more, but in a more worldly view ****as now a Man may go from one Village from another, and the Children do not hoot them as they did formerly, and such a number have been in Whalers, as each Ship takes eight or ten New Zealanders and the Seamen pick up the Language from them ***** and the same pre-

* Except in the bush or Forrest, when Pidgeon shooting, and horrible walking I can assure you. E. M.
** Residents duties so undefined; the Legislative Council of Sydney protests against the Colony of NSW paying £500 Mr Busbys salary for services performed against their consent, and out of their Country - as he is British Resident, Britain ought to pay it. E. M.
*** The Natives bring the women alongside and up they come to see old Friends, as soon as the Kipooky has come to an Anchor. E. M.
**** I dont say only but it acts more in their favor than against them. E. M.
***** Out of Port Jackson there are now 47 sail of Whalers that always fish in the South seas, they of course pick up the Polynesian language. E. M.

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vails from the Sandwich Islands to Taheite [Tahiti] and Tonga and Feegies [Fiji]. I have known a Woman Tabooed to an European for Years, he coming every year to New Zealand for the last fifteen or so, then settling there altogether and Catching and salting Fish, Salting Hams, Pork for sale and going to pass the remainder of his days there.

One reason for depopulation is the number of Pulmonary Complaints. They go off so suddenly, apparently in good Health. The old people believe that (Atua) God of the Parkiars Strangers is killing or eating the Mouries or Natives, and they see their strength decrease daily; some fancy a Lizard in shape (Dueterra) has got in their inside and is eating their entrails out. I went very regularly to Church and received the Sacrament once. I staid with Mr Chapman some days. I beleive that Man to be a Simple minded Christian and no humbug, and his Wife a good Lady like person, and in very delicate Health; when I got up to Sydney,

sent some Tokens of Remembrance [Marginal note]

I sent him a quarter Case of Sherry, and Mrs. Busby, the Book (Keith on the Prophecies) 39 Sarah gave to me, as I could not buy it there, so I did not forget their civilities, and to Stephenson I sent a Dining Table, and six Rattan bottom Chairs. I often went to their Prayer Meetings which they have every Wednesday and Saturday and the first Monday in every Month. Although the New Zealanders are a fine robust well built people, they are not tough and hardy; bad food, and imprudent exposure to the Weather, is the grand Cause, and building their Huts in damp Moist situations, eternally smokeing. *

difficulty of keeping a Boats Crew [Marginal note]

Mr Busby could hardly keep a Boats crew together, he employed them in his Garden, but the moment they were paid in Clothes off they went into the Country. Our clothes are generally worn here, ** and through out the South Seas, they try for Cloth Clothes, but Mr. Busby hit on a plan of keeping a School constantly till at length he got seventeen Men, as many as he wanted for his Boat and garden and from seven till nine in the morning he teaches them to read write and sum. The Missionaries have gone in to the Native Villages and found Men and Women who could say the Catechism and prayers, read and write, that had never seen a Missionary, but they had learnt it from one that had been taught.

News Room [Marginal note]

There is in Every Native Village an Hotel de Ville, or Large Hut open on one side and this is the General Rendez Vous of all Idlers, and News. ***

Bouca Bookas or Notes or letters [Marginal note]

Once I was in one of them and a Slave came in with a Slate, as they have no paper for their Bouca Bouca's [pukapuka] and every one heard the Slate read, and gave an answer. I asked a Sawyer what was the News. The Tigris Whaler had arrived, and three Women of that Village had Tarnes [tane] or Husbands on Board; they drove three large Pigs down to the Bay of Islands and put them on board Canoes, and went to live with Men they had been with for Voyages and made these Men presents of the only thing they had in shape of property; I call that Affection.

These People have a great desire to learn. I have seen in the Schools,

* The Old Men have an Idea that the Atua of the parkeiahs is kiki-ing or eating up their people or Nation, as they are aware that they are a diminishing people. E. M.
** European clothing is becoming so necessary to them now, that the Natives are fast looseing the art of Matt making. E. M.
*** The 'Hotel de Ville' is the wharerunanga or public meeting house; it is not 'open on one side', but in that phrase Markham probably refers to the entrance porch.

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four Classes of grown Men learning to read and write, and write a line from Dictation. At one School I read a verse from the New Testament, and they all wrote it perfectly. They are by no means a dull or Stupid People; if they give them other kinds of Knowledge which I hope they will, when they have a printing Press at Pihere, I do not see why they should not be rapidly civilized. They do expect a Press out there. 40 They are very Inquisitive, they ask what you are reading, why you write, what about, and why you want the Boat, and where you are going.

14th August [Marginal note]

Friday 14th of August I returned from a Tour of fourteen days. I went and spent two or three days with Mr Busby, and on the Monday got into a Canoe, and swam his Mare across the Why tanghie, then mounted, following a Guide carrying my Carpet Bag, commenced a route to Why Mattie The Inland Mission Station and Farm, about fourteen Miles distant. 41

Journey to Why Mattie [Marginal note]

The first Mile and half was by the side of a River, and at a point a very Sacred Place in Old times, A Tree and Cave, where an Atua "River God" lives but he has not been seen lately.

Why tangie [Marginal note]

We then went over a Mud Bank The Mare plungeing in with me, but I got on the Firm Bank on the other side, saw the Waterfall, and as I went up a Valley I saw a constant succession of Falls. There is in Wensleydale a place called Aysgarth Force, not unlike the place I am speaking of. 42 There are a few Huts on each side of the Falls. The whole Country is up and down Hill, evidently Volcanic, as you see continually extinct Volcanoes with a thin Crust.

People who have chosen to go up inside say they are like a Funnel, or Wine Glass, and in one or two of them Water at the bottom and that you can hear a stone, rolled down, go an immense distance if you put your head to the Ground.

Volcanic [Marginal note]

A Rich Soil Volcanic, Tuffa or Pumice stone I should say, admirably adapted to the Vine. 43 The Natives in some places where the Stones seem most abundant, have cultivated the Ground for ages. They Pile up the Stones The Same as they do in the Isle of France to get rid of them, and I have seen a look out Hut in a Cumera Garden made on a Heap of Tuffa six feet high and a beautiful Soil for Vines or Hops. *

Why Mattie [Marginal note]

I had to cross the Why-tanghie 8 miles above the falls and I found it deep, a very pretty Country till at last We came to Why Mattie. 44 There I delivered a letter of Introduction to Mr Clerk [Clarke], whose manners I liked very much. The C Missionary Society bought a large Tract of beautiful Rich Land for a Farming Establishment. There are three large

* The Heaps look like the bases of round towers of rough stones piled up ten feet in places 6 feet in general, but only in this sort of soil. E. M.

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Houses for the three Missionaries. They are not completed but they are comfortable. They are entirely the work of the New Zealanders, Not a Nail driven by any other unless indeed one of the Missionaries. They sawed the Planks &c. There were three School Houses, a good sized Chapel, Work shops, Stables, Orchards, Gardens and Twenty two Acres of Wheat in the Ground, and a Stack of Wheat not yet Thrashed out. They were engaged breaking up seventy Acres of New Ground, but the Roots of the Fern were terrible. Mr Davis a Dorsetshire Farmer Superintendent of the Missionary Agricultural Establishment had the charge of the Farming department.

The Mill [Marginal note]

They were putting up a Mill House and commencing a Dam. They had a Beautiful Stream for the purpose. The Mill Wheel was nearly complete. They had a Mill wright and Black smith from Sydney to put it up and strike the Level, and make the Mill dam. The New Zealanders are good Ploughmen. They are taught to plough straight and are kind to the Horses.

Houses for the Native Servants [Marginal note]

The Missionaries have built Thirteen wooden Houses with three Apartments with Brick Chimneys for their Native Servants in Rows giving half an acre to each garden and teaching them the use of Herbs, Mellons, Pumpkins, Fruits, Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plumbs &c, quite an interesting Village springing up.

Infant schools [Marginal note]

The Infant schools are under the direction of the Missionaries Wives, and they are popular with the Children.

Spinning [Marginal note]

They teach the Girls to spin. I had not seen a regular Spinning Wheel before for many a day. I was amused to find them in this part of the World. * If you know the Infant School System It is a good thing but the Children did all stink so, in spite of all that was said to the Mothers. They the Missionaries Wives take it in Turn to attend it, and are in from day break till Breakfast time. In the grown schools morning and evening attendance. 45 They have introduced the Mariage Ceremony.

Wedding of a Native Christian at Pihere [Marginal note]

There was a Girl who had been brought up with the Missionaries and they wanted her to be married to a Native Christian, and she wished it also but her Parents had tabboed her to a Native Chief some Years before, and he would have her. There was a fuss and Parade at this Wedding, and This Chief came with an Armed Force that set the Missionary at defiance.

interrupted [Marginal note]

She was standing before what should be the Altar, when they broke into the Chapel tried to pull her out, to take her away. She Clung to the Missionary and the adverse party tried to take her away.

the marriage interrupted [Marginal note]

The Consequence was, that this Young Lady had all her Clothes torn off, and was in the Hands of the parties as naked as she was born. The Chief hold of one leg, the Missionary of the other, Pull Devil pull Baker. The Bridegroom was dreadfully beaten,

* The C M Society sent out 30 Spinning Wheels and some Heccles to dress the New Zealand flax. E. M.

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the Bride seriously hurt, but at the same it was a Marriage though she is * not expected to live from the treatment they then received. ** This took place at Pihere. They try to marry them Young. Because vy as Fanny Kemble says, They will not keep. Mrs. Chaloner once said to me when talking about a Miss Brown succeeding her sister in Mr Turtons bed, "I am afraid a Warm Climate is very bad for Morality." 46 Query how long was it since the Old Lady had had the Bum fidgets, but to proceed. Marriage is Sacred here, as much so as else where.

New Jerusalem [Marginal note]

The[y] are learning to make and bake Bricks here and Mr Clerk one day rode with me to a Village three miles off to show me the improvements. They had a good large Wooden Chapel on the Centre of a Hill and this might be a Circle of a quarter of a Mile. 47 He was laying it out for a Town of Native Christians, and they were building their Houses of Wood; *** they had cut it themselves and had a Regular plan helping to make dry walls of the Stones breast high as Fences between each garden, to turn the Pigs &c and teaching them Comfort. One Man had half an Acre of Wheat and as soon as the Mill is done, they will allow the Natives to have their Indian Corn ground and so eat it as Bread, instead of in a state of Putrifaction. They will make great progress under the Missionaries at Why mattie.

A week at Why Mattie [Marginal note]

I was there a Week and went in all directions.

Lake of Morberry [Marginal note]

In one Journey I took with Mr Hamlyn [Hamlin] a Missionary we went to a Hill 48 looking into the lake of Morberry [Omapere], not unlike Albano, from Castle Gondolpho [Castel Gandolfo], the Popes Villa, with Alba Longa in the distance, and that Hill Monte Cavo where the Temple is turned into a Monastery, a high Peak with the mark of the Begars [bigae] **** or Chariots, that went up in days by gone. A good deal of the Country is hard Clay, with Stunted Fern the same as from the Why hoe to the Kiddy Kiddy. There is a point of Land pretty high jutting out into the Lake and the Famous Shungie (vide the Library of Entertaining Knowledge) had his Parr on it and showed he had picked up some

* Markham originally wrote 'they are not', then altered it to 'she is not', but failed to make the corresponding change at the close of the sentence.
** The Bride had been Tabboed to the chief from her birth by her parents, and I think it was not judicious in the Missionarys to break in to their Customs by force. E. M.
*** I am not certain of the name of the town about to be regularly laid out by Mr Clerk. E. M.
**** Literally 'a span of horses harnessed to an open car'.

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knowledge of Fortification when in England. Bastions, loop holes &c. It is now abandoned. 49 The Kororadica People and the Parr at the entrance of ye [?] Cower Cower [Kawakawa] River * are enemies and I believe the one would try to destroy the other but for the Missionaries Influence which is great. 50 They were nearly coming to blows when I was there but for Mr Williams.

changing from Place to Place [Marginal note]

They have their different Stations and the New Zealanders have patches of Cultivation in Twenty places, and are here one season and there an other and at one time they like Fish and Pippies and at an other Cumeras and Potatoes; one part of the Country, is best for their Pork to thrive in so they migrate from place to place. ** I went with Mr Clerk to see them break up new fresh Ground with a Lever, with a thing to stand upon like a stilt, and it breaks the Roots of the Fern, and then they can get a spade down as they use them now, but not much in the present time but once broken up they do for several years before the Fern becomes so

very troublesome again if abandoned for 2 or 3 years. If I give an Idea of how the Thing is done that is quite sufficient. Near any Stream, it is in general fine Alluvial Soil. To return to Why Mattie Mr and Mrs. Stack were staying in the House all the time I was there. I dined one day with Mr Davis, another at Mr Hamlyns so I found them all civil to me. I agreed to go the round that Mr Hamlyn was to go the next Sunday. It rained in Torrents and Snowed but we had some Sandwiches put up and some Port Wine in a flask; at Seven we started and rode away Thirteen miles, put the Horses up and it snowed away. 51 The only Snow I have seen during my sejour in the Island.

Service [Marginal note]

We entered a Chapel 60 feet long by 30 Broad, A frame of Strong wood doors and Windows, The Sides covered neatly with Bark and Water Tight Roof Thatch, height 16 feet, a raised place with a Table, No Pulpit. The Missionary greeted a number of them kindly in his way from the door to the Desk. The Service began, and there were full 300 in the Chapel. The whole of the Congregation joined. There are

* The interpretation of this passage in the manuscript is not at all certain: 'at... ye' (the last word a doubtful reading) has been interpolated, while 'Cower Cower River' is written in the margin.
** This is settled at the Hotel De Ville in each Village; when the orders are given for a change of Residence every person leaves at the same time. E. M.

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few Country Churches in England where it is performed half so well. No Noise or bustle. The lessons were read and the Psalms sung to Familiar Church Tunes. I could have fancied my self in England but for the Motley group before me. Tattooed faces! Stinking Cacahows! Mr Hamlyn then preached to them. After Service he went and visitted the Sick, and then we were again in the Saddle. In the way home at two other Chapels the same thing and it was near six and I wet when we returned. I enjoyed the dinner, which was waiting my arrival as it was past their Tea time. Mr Stack dined with me, He having been to Tyamy * [Taiamai] in an other direction and served two Chapels and Mr Davis had been to two, and Mr Clerk took the home duty and the Village I had been to a few days before.

Mr Hamlyn so good a Linguist [Marginal note]

Mr Hamlyn is so good a Linguist that he preached in a Tour to the Southward, and the people got up from their places to look at him closer, as the[y] said he was a "Tangata Mar", or white Man but that he had the Tongue of a "Tangata Mourie", native; ** when he came back the people laughed at him here and told him he had been to the Southward, for he had acquired the accent perfectly, and he picked up some sixty new words in the Language during his Trip. It is supposed that on a Sunday, they read prayers to 1200 Natives, and that in the Northern end of the Island, there are not less than 10,000 *** who can read and write and attend Public service. 52

I was mistaken for a Missionary The Bridge [Marginal note]

One day I was amusing my self by trying to read the Psalms with a Woman outside a Hut; another came and I was reading alternate Verses, when the News ran through the Village that a Missionary was there, when I had sixty or seventy people collected round me. I was obliged to get a Sawyer of the name of Baker or **** Manning to explain to them that I was not a Missionary and that I knew nothing of their Language. 53

About half a mile from Why-mattie is the River Why-tanghie and what has amused the New Zealanders is, that the Missionaries have Thrown a Bridge of seventy feet, one span across the River, and they have a Cart road of Eleven miles from Why-mattie to Kiddy Kiddy and it passes over this Bridge. Mr. Clerk was the builder of the Bridge, and thus the Three Stations are connected. 54

Mr Kemp [Marginal note]

I staid eight days, seeing different places every day and then took a Note to Mr Kemp; he was very civil to me, and his old Wife was the picture of George Donkins Old Woman darning a Stocking. 55 She was civil and very communicative of Old times she having been fifteen years, and seen many a Man killed and eaten, but first put into a Coppre Mourie.

Human Flesh [Marginal note]

They cut them up and slash down the legs, and take the bones out, wash the Meat and roll it up like Beef Olives. Then it requires four Hours, before it is done. The palms of the Hands and Feet are tit bits for the Chiefs. Europeans are not considered so good eating as the Mouries as they are too Salt, but it is no protection to them, as they delight in having a Hungry dance round a fellow. Then the Chief with his Marre [mere]

* Tyamy on the other side of the lake. E. M. Markham again errs: Taiamai (the modern Ohaeawai) is due south of Waimate, while Lake Omapere lies to the west of Taiamai.
** 'native' is a marginal note.
*** Say 8000 to be within bounds. E. M.
**** The words 'Baker or' have been interpolated.

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gives him a Clip on the Pipkin and he is speedily cut up, so ends the life and begins the feast.

Preserved Heads [Marginal note]

I tried to get some preserved Heads, but they are not plentiful where I was. To the Southward at a place called Tou-rongher * [Tauranga], they

are to be procured. I only saw three for Sale, and Captain Young had bought them a commission. I wanted one for Gilbert. 56 These three were having their hair dressed and greased, and Feathers put in, The Face oiled, and look quite "Walker Pipi" [whakapaipai]; they put up Cross Sticks for Shoulders and put the head on it and their Cacahows, over the Cross Sticks; they looked like three Natives squatted down, and at a distance you could not know them from living Natives.

Kiddy Kiddy [Marginal note]

But to return to Kiddy Kiddy, 57 after a dozen horrid Stories The Lady had Supper in then Prayers and to bed.

Next Morning I went with Mr Kemp and a couple of Natives to see the Falls of the River Kiddy Kiddy. We had to pass across the Rocky Bed of a River on a New Zealanders back. They picked out two of the strongest of the Boys (as they call the Men) about the place to carry "Pekow" us over the River. We walked on an open Heath or gentle Hill or Rise from the River for two miles and no appearance of any thing like Water when we came all at once on a fall of 90 feet and a fine fall of Water into a circular Basin.

Falls of the Kiddy Kiddy [Marginal note]

It was the head of a Ravine in an open Country. The sides were covered with Wood. We had to descend and cross the stream. We found it deeper than usual and got wet at the knees and Toes. We kept at the bottom on the other side, the Ground wet with the continual spray and crawled under the very Water fall into a Cave or Cavern forty or fifty yards deep. The Natives told Mr Kemp that Shunghie and the Nappooes [Ngapuhi] Fathers ** took this Country from some other Tribe, I forget which, and some part of the Tribe took refuge in this Cave but they were hunted out and killed and eaten, where we were standing. 58

My danger [Marginal note]

On leaving This damp and Greasy Hole, we went up the steep side and I crossed over on a Mans Shoulders, he leaping from Stone to Stone and in the middle my Hat blew off. I caught it but the Native tried to catch a pair of Cotton gloves. That had nearly been fatal to both, as he slipped

* Or perhaps 'Tou-rougher'.
** Shunghies Father was the Head Chief of a tribe that acquired the name of Nappoes or goers by night.

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from the stone but sprang forward and recovered himself and crossed a very deep rapid stream and landed safely. Mr Kemp witnessed the Scene and turned faint.

Venus [Marginal note]

I was very much afraid for Venus, as she had followed me half way, but did not like to proceed but Whined. I sent the Man back for her, she also arrived safely. Mr Kemps Nerves were so shaken that he crossed some 3 or 400 yards higher up, and then told me he had crossed there often before but had never felt danger till this day. He said I had a very narrow Escape of going down into the Basin, as the Rocks are so slippery, that catching hold of them is useless. But the Lord be Thanked who preserved me from that danger. We returned the same way we came. I found he had taken the Baron Hugle [Huegel] that way. The Baron is an Austrian and scientific Traveller, a Colonel of the Imperial Guard. I met him in Van Diemans land and he came down to New Zealand the same time that the Government gave the New Zealanders a Flag 59 or rather one under which Vessels sail that are built by Europeans in New Zealand and partly Navigated by them.

New Zealand Flag [Marginal note]

The Jack blue with a white cross and a white Star in each corner in a St George Enseign. They get a sort of Register from the Agent or Resident to the Custom House at Sydney or Hobart Town and get a Licence but limited. 60 They tell a Story of Hugle's gowing a Hunting with the Mids of the Alligator among the Rocks and he caught a Crab, "Von Krabb", and he immediately took him in both hands and eat him like an oyster and the guts &c all hanging about his Chin, he biteing into him. He has the same pursuits that Victor Ja(c)quemont 61 had, and has been all over the same Countries, The Nepaul, The Himalayan, he was all over Australia and Tasmania and I dare say I shall hear of him again; when he left Sydney, he went to China, India, to Europe. * All the Stations are the same, so many Missionaries to each, A School, A Chapel &c.

* Baron Hugle or Hugel is now acting as Ambassador in the absence of Count Appony[i] the Austrian Ambassador at Paris. E. M.

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The day after I got a Guide for the Whytangie and wished all good bye, not forgeting the Carpenter who took me in when I had walked across from the Hokianga. I mounted Mr Busby's Mare and started through Cultivated Ground, and Hills and dales, until I came to winding Ridges of Hill and deep wooded Valleys or Ravines between; * following The Footpath up one of these, it came on to Rain, and I had an Indian Rubber Cloak on and then a squall came on and the Cape flew over my Head. It drummed and flapped about at a great rate and made such a row it frightened the Mare as it cracked like a Coach whip over her Head; at last I found her going round and round till I was obliged to throw my self off, and she was getting out of the footpath, and off she went.

I thought I should not have got her again but the Boy was a smart fellow, and caught her again. The road from Sienna [Siena] to Radicofony [Radicofani] is the same kind of Country in a Clayey soil and very stunted Fern on the Hills.

Volcanic [Marginal note]

But the Ravines are full of Wood and every now and then coming to a Conical Hill with a Crater, and volcanic stones in the Valleys and in one place near Mr Busby's House there is a Ridge of rocks running into the Sea, that is Black Laver [lava] full of holes like a Gruyere Cheese and evidently been in a state of fusion; from Kiddy Kiddy to Why-tanghie is 25 miles. 62 I got back to Mr Busby's and as usual got a hearty welcome from them, turned the Mare out and staid that day and the day following I went back to Stephensons and Robson, to resume my turn of Cooking, At Okiarto.

return to Okiarto [Marginal note]

I had been absent 14 days, found that Clindons and Stephensons boat House was nearly compleated and the House also and great improvements going on. Rogers ploughing up the ground; he had built the Plough and made the Harness for a Mare and Mule and they were being broke in at the Plough. The Garden much improved; my time was occupied in boating and going up the Rivers trading for Pork, and shooting Ducks and in visiting Whalers. One day I was going to the Showracky [Hauraki] or River Thames, and I meant to have taken up my abode for a few days on board the Bolina taking in

* My Cloak over my Head. E. M.

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spars for Whahow [Oahu] * in the Sandwich Islands. I started with two Sawyers and Natives to go in an old Boat. She had been built for sealing and had been rose on. ** We took two or three pieces of Pork with us and some seven or eight Kits or Baskets *** of Potatoes, a small Cask of Water, 2 Bottles of Grog. Now the distance is 200 miles to run. It came on to blow hard; we had to run in this open Boat for the land after rounding Cape Brett some Forty or Fifty Miles and came to an Anchor behind some Rocks; in rounding to, she touched and sent a point through her bottom; what was to be done; we hauled the Boat up high and dry, it was then nearly dark, we lit a fire, cooked the Pork and had a glass of Grog.

Stove in our Boat [Marginal note]

Now there were no people on this Coast for the famous Shungie had made a Vow that there should not be a smoke or fire lit between Cape Bret and the River Thames and exterminated Man, Woman and Child so kept his Vow. 63 We had a grand Council what to do but as it was dark we could not see the extent of the damage; we had our Fire arms and got our Blankets and Cloaks and after a glass of Grog laid together in our Tempory Hut, and slept till day light; then we began to examine what damage our Boat had received, and with clasp Knives &c we cut and put in a plank 2 feet long but we had no pitch. So I remembered once on the Hoogly being hard up and having seen the Dandy's or Boatmen **** pick up some stiff hard clay, and off I went in search of some.

a deserted Parr [Marginal note]

I found my self with one Boy in a Wood, and came upon the site of a former Parr, Some Huts half standing, some burnt and the tie up [taiapa] or Fence burnt, here and there the Corner post standing up curiously carved with Mens heads, ***** Some burnt Canoes and Bones left of the Inhabitants left, as they were killed lieing about, not in Skeletons but as they had been eaten, by the Nappooes, or Night Goers, 64 as they were the first Tribe that attacked by Night, because there is a great superstition, about going out in the Dark.

fear of Ghosts [Marginal note]

The Ghosts of departed Friends seen under the name of "Atua". Now I remember when One boy went for Water at Night, he wod not go without an other with a lighted Stick. They having this Superstition were never on the alert and they became an easy prey to Cannibals (their Enemies). ****** There had been extensive Cultivation formerly but now all was hushed as the Tomb, and Fern and Trees were growing up in the place. I tore up my Shirt and put the Clay inside (3 thicknesses) ******* and hauled both sides of the Shirt through the Crevice or rather between the Planks, ******** and is [sc. as] it washed away hauled it tighter and we were three days.

living on Fern root [Marginal note]

Our Potatoes were all done, and we sent the Boys to get Fern Root and Roasted four or five Kits of it, to take to sea, and were out two days living

* Owhyhee is known as Whahow. E. M. Markham has wrongly identified Hawaii, the name applied to the largest island and to the group as a whole, with Oahu, the name of another island where the present capital, Honolulu, is situated.
** The OED fails to record any use of 'rise' or 'raise', nautical or otherwise, which satisfactorily explains the last phrase; perhaps it means 'raised in height'.
*** The phrase 'or Baskets' is inserted in the margin.
**** The OED defines a 'dandy' as a boatman of the Ganges.
***** Rank vegitation had covered the paths and heaps of pipi shel[l]s about. E. M.
****** The bracketed phrase has been interpolated.
******* The bracketed phrase is a marginal interpolation.
******** The Plank was secured by a stick out side and an other inside, and then lashed together and then Wedged tight. E. M.

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on Fern root, and water till we got into Parroa * [Paroa] Bay, 65 and got Potatoes, and made a good Meal of Potatoes and Pippies. As I found that Fern Root is not at all satisfactory, ** after One has once known what it was to have been at Veray's [Very's] or the Caffe de Paris, or Caffe Hardy. 66

I got back on the sixth day, and in time for a Pigs head, whilst Stephenson and the rest were having a Laugh at my Expence.

Tabbooed Groves [Marginal note]

I forgot also to mention the Sacred Groves, and the Rows we got into by going into these Tabbooed Groves near the Coko or Coco; there are two or three places Tabbooed as Sacred for their Dead, where the Natives are put up in the large Trees with their Muskets by their sides to rot in their Boxes, till they are taken down and scraped &c.

Moutitie [Marginal note]

I have seen three or four of these in large Trees, and Bones placed in holes in the Rock till they were to be taken up to some place in the Mountains or to the Island of Moutitie, *** as that is very Sacred, and belongs to the Ki-tou-ties of which Wurrie Puppur is Head Chief, the Man who sold the Coko to Kelly and Manning.

acted Ghost [Marginal note]

I once frightened some of the Natives out of the House, by dressing my hair as a New Zealander and mat on and a pair of Green Glasses. Kelly sang out, The Atua, The Atua, and ran out, and all the others after him. I off with my Mat, Glasses and Feathers, and ran out too, and they firmly believed that they had seen the Ghost of some Chief dead and gone long ago.

Caught Trespassing [Marginal note]

Rogers and I went into one of these Groves and merely looked about, and a Canoe passing saw us, down came the Chief three hours after wards with three Canoes full of Armed Men. We heard them Miles off, How yah! foy-dah! how-yah! [hoeal toial [?] hoea !] coming down on us for having trespassed in the Sacred Grove. So after three hours of Altercation and row, we paid 3lb Of Tobacca and they left us, but I was never caught there again. 67 It is curious the number of Canoes laid up there, as they never use them again, but for the same purpose that of a Hearse, **** and the Old Cacahows or Mats lying about there and Paddles was astonishing. They would not hesitate to let fly a Musket shot at you if caught there.

The Cowey Cowey [Kawakawa] was a beautiful River. ***** I used to
* Named Man of Wars bay by Cook. E. M.
** The Roast fern is stringy and a farinous substance between the fibers. E. M. {Opposite the Coco or Coho. E. M.
*** There were 4 or 5 hawled up under the trees & Tabboed. E. M.
**** Very good Duck shooting up the Cower Cower. E. M.

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amuse my self with taking walks with Venus. She had a bad trick of eating the Lizards. I am sure they could not be good for her nor the Sand flies or Mammooes which latterly were very troublesome.

Trick of the Captain of a Whaler [Marginal note]

One day a Captain of a Whaler played me a trick. I had bought two Hams that the Black Smith at Clindons had cured, but I thought that they would be all the better for being up the Chimney * which was of Stone and Brick that had come down from Sydney, but there not being enough, I hoisted a Musket Case at top and hung the Hams just below it and suspended them by Spun yarn to the top. I was saying as I was Cook next Sunday, I would give them a good dinner.

My Hams Stolen [Marginal note]

The Scamp had manned a Boat, sent it on Shore, and got one hand to talk with the New Zealand Boy, while the others stole the Hams, but next morning I went to light the fire, I happened to look up the Chimney and discovered that the Hams were gone. ** I very soon manned the boat and went on board, where I recovered one, but the other was already in the Pot. I staid on board and partook of the Ham for dinner, and when all was quiet I made the Boy put the half Cold Ham, into the Boat, and then I wished them good Night. But there was a Woeful face in the Morning when they found it gone.

Barber sent a dozen of Wine [Marginal note]

Barber 68 came up and I asked him to Breakfast as I knew he had made a bad one. He sent me a dozen of Wine for the Sundays dinner; in consequence I asked him to dinner at Sydney two or three times, but all the Captains of the Whalers said afterwards, Ah Mr Markham Thats the Man to look after his Hams, but though I found these Men Rough, the Monotony of the Bay was dreadful. Now and then I had the Papers, and at Mr Busby's the Atlas.

Tribe up the Why-Catto [Marginal note]

For some four or five Sundays I had been up the Why Catto [Waikare] 69 to a Tribe of very Wild fellows.

the Native Parr at the Head of the Why catty River [Marginal note]

Their Parr was a long way up the River almost at the base of the Mountains. Mr Chapman went up to have a Corrirow with these people, ***and got round him a Number of Natives asking them where they expected to go when they died, and leading on asking about different People and things, telling them that the World was round, and that the Sun set and rose again, and that there was a God who made it all, and led them on in argument, and allowing them to ask questions in return, then he said, I must break the ground first, then cleanse it, Next sow the Seed. They were very Careless about it for some time. At last their Chiefs told him that they had come to the Resolution of building him a Chapel (this was his 6th visit), **** but they did it more because the other Chiefs had visits on "Rah Tabboo" Sunday from the Missionaries and I have no doubt but they will all profess Christianity shortly, at this end of the Island.

I do not know a place more in Spiritual darkness than the Slave Population at the Mauritias [Mauritius].

I have a high regard for Mr. Chapman as a pious sincere Christian; he would no doubt do wonders there. They built a School House and one for a School master, and a Native School master was to have charge of the

* This was the 2d chimney I had built in the Island. E. M.
** Barber stole the 2 Hams - then bet me a Dozen of wine that neither of them would be dressed on Sunday for Dinner; recover one untouched and the 2d half cold. E. M.
*** First fixing their attention. E. M.
**** The bracketed words have been interpolated.

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Prospects of the spreading of the Gospel [Marginal note]

Place but the distance to go in a Boat was great, and depended much on Winds, Tides and Weather. But they will do wonders in that place yet, and as they have sent out six Missionaries, to make new stations this will be one, to the Southward at Showracky, The River Thames of Cook, and Why catto near it the Wesleyan Missionaries had begun two Stations. So in ten Years they will have implanted quite new Ideas among them. *

The Store at Kiddy Kiddy [Marginal note]

I forgot to mention the large Stone Store House Built by the Church Missionary Society at Kiddy Kiddy. It is very Substantial, the Walls above a yard thick of solid Stone, and above 10,000 Bushels of lime used in it, Three Stories high. 70 On one end they were putting up a Clock as the safest place and the Bell. The Mason came from Sydney. Arched Windows, Doors Iron shod, Shutters too. In fact Stronger than is required. It is the only Stone building in the Country, ** All the Houses have only Brick Chimneys, the rest of Wood. Labour is dear. As the New Zealanders will work like Tigers for any particular Object but not as a matter of Course. A Singular thing among them is the payment required even for hurting your own self. A Man in a Native Village cut his leg with an Axe, the by Stander took the Axe in payment. A man up the Mouna Mouca River, had a Pig and his name was Joe and his Pigs name was Joe and he killed the pig and eat it. The Consequence was his Own Womans Relations came and took a pig from him because he had killed a Pig called after himself - as forfeit.

When I was in the Hokiangar River The Emma Kemp got on Shore at Herds Point on Land belonging to the New Zealand Company. She had been round the World. *** A Man of the Name of Steen [Steine] Commander (then but I forget it the man now); **** she was a small Cutter, 45 Tons, 5 hands only. 71 The Natives plundered her of her "Atua" The Compass! The Cooking Pots &c and 2 Muskets. Now they would not have done this but for the Vessels taking the Ground. ***** I do not see in what it differs from the Cornish Law. But now they do not kill and eat you, in this part of the Island and they did formerly; that is one Step gained.

The Harriette Whaler vide Marshalls New Zealand [Marginal note]

Now while I was in the Island the Harriette [Harriet] Whaling Brig was cast away near Terrinacky [Taranaki] Or Mount Egmont of Cook near Cookes Straits. 72 She was wrecked and all of the Crew reached the Shore but what was their fate. The[y] were attacked by the Natives.

Mrs Gard [Marginal note]

The Captain Gard [Guard] made his Escape with six Men; his Wife was wounded in the Fray and [a] Chief threw his Cacahow over her and she became his Mistress. ****** She had two Children by Gard one two Years old,

* Markham's meaning in this paragraph is not easy to disentangle. In the first sentence he apparently refers to Mauritius. He then goes on to mention a place to the South of the Bay of Islands, at Hauraki (Cook's Thames), where they (i. e., the Maoris) had built a school and residence for a native schoolmaster. This distant and somewhat inaccessible place is probably Puriri, in the Thames district, where in December 1833 Henry Williams found 'the natives already busily employed in the erection of houses for the accommodation of the promised missionaries' and where four missionaries settled in 1834. Markham adds that the Wesleyans had established two stations in the neighbouring Waikato (actually on the Kawhia Harbour towards the end of 1834) and concludes in prophetic strain. - Elder, Marsden, 513-14; Morley, History of Methodism, 67.
** The Natives said it would make a good Par. E. M.
*** The Emma Kemp 45 Tons burden circumnavigated the world but [took?] 9 months about it. E. M.
**** The bracketed words have been interpolated.
***** The same Reason caused the Fortitude to be robbed. E. M.
****** A cheif protects her when wounded by throwing his mat over her; she becombs his Mistress; before I left Sydney, I heard that she was brought to bed of Twins & they were rather dark. E. M.

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the other four; they were lost sight of during the Massacre of the 12 Men, of whom Mrs. Gards own Brother was one. They having killed them, proceeded to Cook them according to the most approved style. They say the Meat of a Mans leg and Thighs well boned, washed and rolled is very delicious but Sailors the Gourmands pronounce to be too tough and Salt, and not so good as Mouries but still are eatable with a good appetite as Sauce and well done Potatoes.

Terrinacky or Mount Egmont is 18000 or 16000 * feet in height and covered with Snow all the year. Gard made his way to a Canoe and got away to Cloudy Bay ** in three days time where he got on board of a Whaler going to Sydney; on his arrival there he stated every thing as it had occurred to the Sydney Colonial Council, and they decided on sending the Alligator 28 Guns Captain Lambert down with the Isabella Government Schooner with 70 Soldiers on board and 30 on board the Alligator. ***

Alligator and Isabella sent with 100 men [Marginal note]

They went down and were on the Coast sometime before they could land for the Surf, but sent Gard and Battersby (the man I slept with at Martins the Hokianga Pilots) on Shore to pick up information. They found they would be served the same as their Friends had been. The poor Woman was brought down to the Beach and placed standing on a Canoe bottom upwards, with a Man station[ed] on each side of her with a Tomahawk flourishing over her Head. **** You may suppose what were the feelings of the Husband when he saw her there. One of the Men at the Guns found that he had one of the Party so well covered, that he fired his 32lb cannonade [carronade] and split the Canoe to Smithereens. One Man was wounded by the Splinters and off

the Gun commands the Parr [Marginal note]

They hurried her; at day Break they landed and had to get a Six Pounder up a hill which commanded the Parr, that stood out like an Island nearly perpendicular 200 feet and a wide Ravine between so the Blue Jackets got the six lb Cannonade up on to the opposite Height and the Soldiers and Marines in four different parties. The People in the Parr did not know what to make of it, but the Parties kept quiet till the Gun began a Corrirow that very soon began to explain himself to their Understandings. The Soldiers and Marines then moved on from different points. The Rascals showed fight for some time but they could not stand the Gun as it compleatly commanded the Parr, otherwise Impregnable. They lost 25 Men and scudded away taking Mrs. Gard with them. But the Chief was a Prisoner, and they took him on board, and at last the People came to the Resolution of giving up the Woman for the Chief. So next day there was an exchange, and Mrs. Gard came on board and looking beautiful in the Native Cacahow and Hair loose, and a Wild look about her. So the principal part was accomplished as she was taken. She had not seen her Children for the four or five Months she had been among them, as they were at a Parr belonging to the same People but forty miles down the Coast.

destroy the Parr [Marginal note]

They found lots of things in the Parr, the Soldiers and Marines

* The second figure is interpolated, but even that is about twice what it should be: the height of Mount Egmont is 8,260 feet.
** Cloudy Bay across the Cooks Strait in the Southern Island. E. M.
*** The troops were under the command of Capn Johnstone [Johnson] and Lieut Gunton of the 50h Regt. E. M.
**** Compare Marshalls account; the story of the soldiers playing with the Natives Head is true as I saw Capn Clerk [Lieutenant Clarke] who was Marine officer on board but the wanton cruelty is not made out. E. M.

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killed Pigs, and eat them and Potatoes all night and then set fire to every thing that would burn. This Parr from the very Nature of its Zig Zag path which was the only access to it Might have been kept against any Number, had they not got the Gun on Shore. Captain Lambert showed me the Head of an European, preserved in the Native Manner, found in the Parr, and Lieut Gunton of the 50th Regt. had some bones of the eighteen unfortunate Men. The Weather was bad and they returned to Gores Harbour [Gore Harbour], near Queen Charlottes Sounds [Queen Charlotte Sound], in Cookes Straights [Cook Strait] and lay there for three weeks until it was moderated, Terrinacky Towering above the other Mountains. There are several Volcano's in the Interior of the Island that have been seen at a distance smoking. They returned down the Coast and landed and took two other Parrs which were defended though taken.

one Child seen and taken [Marginal note]

Near one of these A Native was seen with One of the Children. The Sailor who saw him gave Chase & came up with him, and sprang forward, Caught him by the Cacahow or Matt but he having two on let one go, and scudded up the Rocks.

get the Child [Marginal note]

But the Blue Jacket was not to be so done; he levelled his Musket, fired and brought him and the Child rolling at his feet. The Child most Providentially was Unhurt, The Native Dead! Jack took the Child three years and half old under his Arm, and the two Mats, which he rolled him in, and went back to the Boats and gave the Child in charge to the Boat keeper, whilst he returned to plunder the Parr, and the last Child had been abandoned, and so the Mother met her Children on board HMS. Alligator, after a separation of four or five Months. And all the expedition was embarked and went for the Bay of Islands. I was walking in the Verandah of Mr Busby's House and saw her coming in. * Soon saw she was a Man of War, and Mr Busby and I went on board her. I got leave from the Captain to go up in her, if they would accommodate me in the Gun room. In the Course of a few days I got the Consent of the Mess, and went up in her to Sydney, after having waited five Months in the Bay of Islands. I soon had all ready, Squared accounts with Stephenson and Robson and wishing all good bye, went and left my things on board the Alligator, and put poor Venus on board the Schooner, as Thomas the 1st Lieutenant did not like her on board.

poor Venus [Marginal note]

I am sorry to say that while on board the Isabella, she suffered herself to be seduced by a Cur, and I own with regret that she is very like her Prototype of Old, though when I lent her to Mrs. Dumaresq at Port Stevens [Stephens] for four Months, Col Dumaresq said she was more like Diana. 73

Rai-tay [Marginal note]

I staid two or Three days at Why-tangie while the examination of a Chief took place of the name of Rai-tay [Rete]; he and six Men had fired 8 or 10 shots at Mr Busby, and one near his head. 74 They robbed his Kitchen, and took some of the Servants Clothes about ten days before the Alligator came in. Rai-tay's Wife told of him, and when the News spread of what the Alligator had been about to the Southward and the Number of Soldiers they saw on board, They did not like the Cross Belts. The Natives are in much greater fear of the Red than the Blue Jackets, and the people of course told them they had killed a Thousand of them,

* I was walking when I saw the Alligator round Tare Pecker [Tapeka] point into the bay of Islands. E. M.

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where as they had found but Twenty five dead, but the Wounded were carried off into the Bush or Forest. There was great consternation in Pomarry's [Pomare's] Parr; they removed 4 1/2 Tons of Powder up the Cowey Cowey as they were afraid of an attack on the Parr. 75

The Proteus Boat stolen [Marginal note]

In consequence of a great Villains Work a few days before. A Mourie Slave or Cookee named "(More prower)" [Mauparaoa] or Carrier of the Whale bone, 76 had stolen a Boat from the Proteus Whaler, when on shore for Water, in consequence of a Mans being shot in his Canoe, a few days before. When in the act of robbing the Proteus at Midnight, Captain Brown was forward and heard voices under the bows, looked and saw a Canoe, got a couple of Muskets forward, and the Man was getting up the Cable. The Mate fired over their heads to frighten them and this Rascal fired three Muskets in return out of the Canoe and they heard the Balls whistle over their Heads.

A man shot [Marginal note]

Captain Brown fired the other Musket into the Canoe, as they paddled off and killed a man. The Alligator sent to demand the Boat in ten Minutes or they would destroy the Parr, and it was given up instantly. *

The Chief assemble [Marginal note]

But to return, Mr Busby sent to all the Chiefs To assemble at Why-tangie, to take into consideration the Crime of fireing at the Representative of the King of England, as if the Assembled Chiefs did not enquire into it and give satisfaction for the affront, The Man of War and Soldiers would do it on their own account. After a long Corrirow, Each Chief [had] given his opinion. One old Cannibal from a distance said The Tribe ought to sacrifice Twenty Slaves. Then the Missionaries said they wanted no Innocent Man to suffer for the Guilty, and they did not seek the life of any Man, as no life had been taken.

Rai-tay banished [Marginal note]

But at last he was banished from this end of the Island, and his land forfeited to the King of England. So this is the first atteinture [attainture] ** on record to any party.

Torrihah [Marginal note]

You would have laughed to see an Old Brute of the name of Tarrihah [Tareha] weighing 25 stone running backward and forward flourishing his Marre and having his Corrirow or say in the primitive Parliment. 77

kills and eats his slave Girl [Marginal note]

This Man some two years ago, killed a Slave Girl and eat her, merely because he had some Words with her; he ran at her with this same Marre, and cracked her Pipkin. Then in the most approved manner of cooking eat her;

fond of eating Dogs A Cow shot [Marginal note]

he is very fond of eating Dogs, and Mr Davis told me, that Tarrihah gave him leave to kill all the dogs that came for their Poultry on Condition of sending him the dead Dogs.

A Chief shot one of Clindons Cows for walking over his Cumera Ground, The Cow not being aware of its being Tabbooed. There was no fence. On the News of this Old Tarrihah, went with his slaves, and eat, and eat till he nearly killed himself and still the Cow was only in part consumed. He remained by it till it actually stank. Still he did not quit his place, till the Cow disappeared in five days under his gastronomic powers.

The Rangitara of Kororadica Tetorry [Titore] 78 had the execution of the Sentence of the Assembled Chiefs at Why-tangie. All the time Mrs. Busby was in a great fright; she had been Confined the very Night that Rai-tay and his Party had paid their visit. The Child was consequently

* The night before 4 tons of Powder were sent up the Cower Cower as they were in great fear of Par being burnt. E. M.
** Another form of 'attainder', the extinction of rights through a sentence of death or outlawry.

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six Months old exactly that day. The Things had been found [in] Parroa bay or Man of Wars bay of Cook, just round Tarpeckers points, say some sixteen miles nearly opposite Mr Busbys house. 79 Rai-tay said upon being taxed with it that Dr Ross had done it, and he admitted that he had robbed Dr Ross several times. 80 We went to dinner. The Revd. Messrs Brown, Williams and Baker, Dr Marshall, * Vanzetti the Master. 81

parted with poor Venus [Marginal note]

Mr Busby was writing his dispatches to Sir R Bourke, when The Alligator fired a Gun. I wished my kind friends good bye and went on board, found Dyke the 3d Lieutenant son of Sir Percy Dyke, put poor Venus on board the Schooner Isabella in charge of a Man named by Gunton but she was frail on Board. I was not sorry to leave the Beautiful Island as I was heartily tired of the Life I was leading. On the Passage I received Every Civility from Captain Lambert and also from the Officers of the Gun room mess and Mids. Arrived at Sydney Novr 9th 183482 having left Hobart Town Feby 7th 1834 for New Zealand.

Another little anecdote of Moyterras Brother Ranjeterra [Rangatira]. He was working as most Cheifs will, ** as a Sawyer with Maclean at Parkeneigh when a Slave came and whispered some News not pleasant to a married ear - Ranjeterra immediately said to Maclean, Johny the Boy tells me there are two Coucoupers [kukupa] (Pigeons) and asked for the loan of his Two-parra [tupara] or double barrelled Gun, which he obtained with the Powder flask, Shot &c and no person knew what he went for. The Village is two miles nearer the Heads, near the ground where the Harkatty or feast was held. He immediately went home. His Wife it seems was unfaithful with two of his Slaves. He went into his Hut. His wife was out but one of the Slaves was in. He called him out and Shot him on the spot. The report of the Gun made most people look out of their Huts. His Wife came out and he shot Her also, and the second Slave took to his heels. Ranjeterra took provisions, the Gun, Tomahawk and a Slave and went in persuit of him, tracking Him night and day for Two Days - When the Slave thought himself safe, he proceeded to light a fire and roast some Fern root. Ranjeterra laid in ambush till the Feast was ready, having crawled close up to Him on his hands & knees. When the Slave had roasted enough & was ready to begin Ranjeterra spoke to Him. You may suppose his fright as he had witnessed the fate of the others. Ranjeterra fired & wounded him so severely he could not think of escaping - then commenced eating the Fern root; when he had dined, he sat down by his Victim whilst the Slave he had brought with Him finished the remainder of the Fern root. Then Ranjeterra took out his Tomahawk and coolly dispatched him but I did not hear that he eat him. I should add to this his forcible abduction of Mrs Harry Pearson (whose Sister not long dead was his second wife) which created such an interest in the Hokianga River whilst I was residing on its Banks.

I should have mentioned also my accident some time before I went across the Island. The Youth of New Zealand amuse themselves during the pleasant Moonlight Summer Nights, in going through their different

* Dr Marshall has published on New Zealand. E. M.
** Cheifs are not above working. E. M.

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Dances, swimming and Wrestling. One night they had thrown Kelly & Manning and Peter a cousin of Moyterra [and] the best wrestler, our head Boy on the establishment, came to me and entreated me to try. I accepted; He could make nothing of me for nearly an hour, when he said I was like a Tree so firmly fixed. I then sat down and found one knee so strained that I thought it never would be sound again - It used to drop in walking for three weeks after and I was obliged to nurse it but it gradually got stronger. When I had a touch of Rheumatism or Gout in the ancles, as at this time it was wet and my shoes were bad. One day I thought a dose of Medicine would relieve me from this state of things. Manning said he had eaten some of the Kernels of the Castor oil plant which grows easily all over the Island I suppose from being dropped by Europeans as I am certain it is not a Native of the place or indigenous to the Climate, but to proceed. I swallowed some, & soon felt faint, when in came Juniper Jack the Yankey Carpenter from the Wesleyan Mission 83to enquire what was the matter with me, and he immediately said Oh Sir that is the worst thing You could do, I know a Man who died in Convulsions in consequence of taking the same thing (the Devils Comforter). Soon after I was sick to my hearts content and it had the desired effect, in fact it worked like the Cholera. It seems to me that the same causes that depopulated the Indian Tribes are doing the same all over the World. In New Zealand the same as in Canada or North America, And in Southern Africa the Hottentots are a decreasing people and by all accounts the Islands of the South Seas are the same. Rum, Blankets, Muskets, Tobacco and Diseases have been the great destroyers; * but my belief is the Almighty intended it should be so or it would not have been allowed, Out of Evil comes Good.

Native diseases are Scrofula, consumption, caused by f Bad foods, Rotton corn, Do fish &c, Damp ground as now the[y] lay down in huts not a foot above high water mark with only a mat between them and the Earth. 84

Vide 53

Battersby was to have bought some small Brig or schooner at Sydney for the cheif (Apee) of the Whymarr River, for him to take his tribe round to the Southward to some place there, and they were to land and destroy some people there who had killed his uncle or father, some years back, but who had never been revenged. I heard that there was a large quantity of fine timber ready cut to give in payment for the Brig - but I never spoke to him on the subject or heard more of it; there was a most horrid affair some 3 or 4 years back. 85 A Brig called the Elizabeth went down to New Zealand, either from Hobart town or Sydney, with the view of geting a cargo of flax; the Brig lay at Cabbity| [Kapiti] or Entry Island some time, but the Natives gave evasive answers to the Captns daily entreaties, to ship the flax and he had lost much time doing nothing, when the cheifs told him if he would take them to such a place on the Eastern Coast of the Southern Island they would guarantee him his cargo the moment the Brig returned there - he little suspecting what was about

* Not forgetting Infanticide. E. M.
** The words 'caused by' actually appear in the margin a line below 'foods'. This paragraph and most of the remainder of the manuscript are written in pencil.
*** Cabbity is on N Wt Coast. E. M. Kapiti is of course on the south-west coast of the North Island.

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to occur agreed to the proposition and some 200 New Zealanders went on board, armed with Muskets &c and ripe for the Massacre that was to take place - the Captn put to sea and he found then to his cost that the Natives were in fact his Master and he was obliged to succumbe to their wishes or they would have taken The Brig by force - the Brig arrived and as usual the Natives flocked on board, but the Wily thieves kept out of sight, under cover of the Bulwarks, and as the Natives came over the side they were instantly seized, and thrown down into the Hold of the Brig and there dispatched; it was useless for the Captn to remonstrate when the Tigers had seen blood; after killing some thirty in this cowardly manner, they landed and killed, man, woman, & child, on unsuspecting inhabitants and some few escaped into the country, but they [w]reaked their vengeance on the Village by burning and destroying all that came across them; some few of the Cheifs were reserved for a worse Death. They returned in triumph to celebrate the victory and took back some Tons of Human flesh with them - all the tribes round congregated and partook of the feast - the Head Cheif I forget his name at present was put in Irons but they being too small, his legs swelled to an enormous size and the Irons cut into the flesh - they had been feasting for some days and took him some cooked flesh, every day, his own tribe & relations; at last they thought he would escape their hands by dying so they killed this cheif, and the Mother of Cabitty Cheif had him brought before her hut to feast her eyes on for some time, and then upbraided him - she then partook of him after being cooked - I have heard that one european partook of his heart a petit morceau being distributed to the cheifs private friends; the Daughter of the disceased was one of the saved, and saved her life by becomeing the wife of one of the party before her Rank was known to any of them or she certainly would have been eat; to continue the Story Captn Stewart after all did not get his cargo of flax and I am not certain if he returned to his Port or not but I beleive he was lost afterwards on the coast of * Peru - I mention this to shew what might happen if the Whymarr Cheif Apee ever gets a Brig as he can get hundreds of men now (New Zealand[er]s) that can handle her in a seaman like manner.

* The word 'New' follows but it has been struck out.

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Page 41 might have been left out or modified so as to be presentable to strangers and No 1 or EM not appearing as the Hero in the questionable parts.

43 - Do -- Do

45

48 - Do -- Do

49 - Do -- Do

52 - Do -- Do

53 - Do -- Do

56 - Do -- Do

58 - all the better if kept out of sight

59 - 60

65 - 69 certainly

page 258 in Earle is not unlike the features of some of the Women but they often wear the hair more like Europeans.