SKETCH OF NEW ZEALAND, AND THE PROGRESS OF THE COLONY.
[Image of page 3]
SKETCH OF NEW ZEALAND,
AND THE
PROGRESS OF THE COLONY.
NEW ZEALAND is situated in the great Southern Ocean, and consists of two large islands, with some smaller ones, the entire surface of which is about equal to that of Great Britain. Very little was known of the country before the time of our great circumnavigator, Captain Cook, who touched there in his good ship the Endeavour, upon the occasion of his first voyage round the world, and he first made the land at Cape Turnagain, on the east coast of the northern island on the 17th October, 1769. He also discovered the Bay of Islands, Queen Charlotte's Sound, and Dusky Bay, on this visit Cook's Straits were not discovered until a subsequent voyage.
The principal islands of New Zealand are three in number, and are included between the parallels of 34 and 48 degrees south latitude, thus embracing a range of about 14 degrees, or 840 geographical miles in length. Their breadth varies from 40, or even less, to 200 miles, giving an average of 100 miles, and extending from 166 degrees 5 minutes to 179 degrees east longitude from the meridian of Greenwich.
The entire country has been estimated to contain 122,582 square miles, or 78,452,480 acres--viz.,
The Northern Island, comprising New Ulster and part of New Munster............31,174,400 [Acres]
The Middle Island, forming part of New Munster..........46,126,080 [Acres]
The Southern Island....... 1,152,000 [Acres]
Total . . . 78,452,480 [Acres]
[Image of page 4]
The lowest calculations make it 80,600 square miles, or 51,584,000 acres.
New Zealand is, in round numbers, about 13,000 miles from Great Britain, 1200 from New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, and 5000 from Peru and Chili, on the west coast of South America.
Although Captain Cook's great discoveries and favourable accounts of New Zealand excited considerable interest at that time, yet they did not produce much effect in respect to settling the country; the state of Europe, and indeed of the whole world, forbidding anything like an active colonization or emigration from the mother country. The whale ships were induced to visit its seas and coasts more frequently; but it was not until thirty or forty years afterwards, that shore parties were established there. These whalers were, however, the first pioneers, after whom followed the missionaries of the Church Missionary Society in 1814, and those of the Wesleyan Missionary Society.
The country remained in the hands of these two parties until its regular colonization in the year 1839, when the number of whalers and Europeans living among the natives, and adopting their customs, did not amount to less than 2000. The missionaries, although so much less in numbers, exercised great influence over the natives. They opposed the former class, and, in the sequel, all settlers, regarding them somewhat in the light of intruders.
The New Zealand Company commenced the regular colonization of these islands in the month of September, 1839. After in vain endeavouring to arouse the then colonial office to the importance of the subject, and seeing no other course left, the Court boldly despatched an agent there to purchase all the land he could, notwithstanding the Colonial Minister having denied its being British territory. This was the first great mistake that occurred with respect to New Zealand. The Government did not accomplish the recovery of the country without much loss and trouble. It is some satisfaction for the New Zealand Company to know, that the precipitancy
[Image of page 5]
of their first act saved us the loss of these fine islands, by forcing the Government to the only proper course. Had not this taken place, the country would most probably have been in the hands of France at the present moment, the French Government having despatched some men of war to take possession of it directly the state of affairs became known, and which arrived at New Zealand shortly after our officers had obtained the cession of the sovereignty of these islands to our sovereign. The French selected Akaroa for a port, which is situated at Banks's Peninsula, in the middle island, where their emigrants were landed.
The New Zealand Company's agent preceded both these parties, as before stated. He made choice of Cook's Straits as a locale, and Port Nicholson, which is at the southern extremity of the northern island, as the site of the Company's first town and settlement. The town was called Wellington, and the land forming the colony was disposed of in London, as soon as it was offered to the public, in 1100 lots, each of which consisted of one town acre and one hundred country acres, the price for the whole being one hundred and one pounds. By far the greater part of the returns from the sale of this land being engaged to be applied to the purposes of emigration, we have no instance on record of such a stream of population rushing into a primeval waste, as subsequently occurred at this settlement. The property in the town the first year has been estimated at 200,000l.
The local government established itself at the southern extremity of the same island, where Auckland was at length founded as the capital, about twelve months after the settlement at Port Nicholson.
Cook's Straits separate the northern from the middle island, and certainly possess fine harbours in Port Nicholson, on the northern, and in Queen Charlotte's Sound and Port Underwood on the other side, with the advantage of a central position as respects New Zealand generally.
Port Nicholson is situated on the southern extremity of the northern island, and forms the harbour of deposit and export
[Image of page 6]
for a line of coast extending from the east cape to Kawia on the west. It is not connected naturally with any very great extent of available land, the valleys in the immediate vicinity being very limited, which was found inconvenient in the early days of the colony; and this defect was further aggravated by the dense forest which covered the land in nearly every direction. The valley of the Hutt comprises nearly the whole of the flat land in connexion with the port: and the soil being composed of alluvium, is very rich and deep. Like the other parts, it is heavily timbered. The rivers which drain it are of little use for the purposes of transport, the Heretaonga, which is the principal one, being merely available for large boats, and for a short distance only. The reaches are mostly a succession of rapids, and from the vast extent of mountains and hills surmounting them, a very short, duration of rain creates floods. This, however, is partially the case with all rivers in a state of nature, from the drift timber blocking up the water way, and from other causes.
The seat of Government was first fixed at the Bay of Islands, in the commencement of the year 1840, the town being named Russel. This selection arose principally through the influence of the missionaries, and the circumstance of one of the oldest trading settlements in the Island or Kororarika being established in this Bay. Government House was removed to the estuary of the Houraki, or Frith of the Thames, before the expiration of the same year, and a new town founded, called Auckland. The first site of the capital was soon found to be very circumscribed, but the latter, situated on the south shore of the Waitemate, in the district of the Thames, possesses many advantages. It is placed in an open country, in the centre of a great extent of available land, and with greater facilities for internal communication than is commonly to be met with in New Zealand. The land is rendered particularly valuable by the useful character of its rivers, a great desideratum in a new country. The river Kaipara and its branches afford water communication to the northward, and the Manukao and Waikato to the southward; the Port is also considered a very
[Image of page 7]
good one, although perhaps not equal in its present state to Port Nicholson. Wharfs are necessary to make it complete, the landing at low water being both inconvenient and difficult. It is about fifteen miles from Kaipara Harbour, and five from Manukao, which is also a good one. The country around Auckland is open, and principally fern land, but it is said to be inferior to the fern districts of some other parts. The Waikato country is no great distance from Auckland, and the extensive plains of the Waipa on the west coast, the valley of the Thames on the east, with the Piako, is supposed to be sufficient to answer all the purposes of colonization for some years to come. The beautiful climate of the northern parts of New Zealand has always been celebrated, being much warmer than the neighbourhood of Wellington. Geranium hedges are to be seen of good height, and all vegetation is most luxuriant.
The Government land is sold by auction in the colony, and the first sale occurred in the month of April, 1841, when upwards of 21,000l. was realized for about thirty-four acres of land in the capital. The country land in connexion with it was put up in September of the same year, at the upset price of 20l. for suburban, and 3l. for the rural land per acre; and 559 acres were sold for 5000l., being about 8l, per acre, although the best land was reserved. The purchasers, consisting principally of speculators, and not of bona fide settlers, immediately cut up their allotments, as it is termed, and resold them in small pieces at exorbitant prices. There has been a trade in Kauri spars carried on in those parts for many years, this timber abounding in the northern districts. Abundance of iron of good quality is distributed over the whole of New Zealand. Copper is worked at the Great Barrier and Kawau Islands; the ore is generally found next the surface of the ground, and is very superior to the Cornish. Manganese is also found.
The number and warlike character of the native population at this part present the greatest drawback to its general advantages; but now that such active measures are constantly taken by the Government, it is to be hoped that the natives will be
[Image of page 8]
impressed with due respect for our country, and the laws which we have introduced into their land. Besides the white people settled at Auckland and the Bay of Islands, there are some at Hokianga, a port and river to the northward; and parts of the west coast are also occupied by Englishmen. Auckland is about 300 miles from Port Nicholson by land, and 400 by sea; they are separated by a cape on either coast, therefore until joined by a road, they may be truly said to form two distinct colonies. Perhaps the country around Auckland can be more readily subdued and settled at the present time; but Port Nicholson appears to be the spot pointed out by nature for the seat of government, and which it will eventually become, unless some other harbour on the other side of the straits should yet supplant it.
The settlement of New Plymouth or Teranaki, is situated between Port Nicholson and Auckland, on the west coast. It is called the garden of New Zealand. The ground is principally covered with high fern, not too hilly, and of excellent quality. This district, unfortunately, does not possess any harbour, the river Waitera affording shelter for small coasters only. The line of country bounded by the sea from Teranaki as far as Wainui to the southward, is nearly a plain, possessing a good soil with serviceable rivers. The ground is interspersed with forest fern-land and swamp; the hills are by no means objectionable. This fertile plain is bounded inland by the Tarerua and other mountain ranges, which run down the country and form the great back-bone of the island-There is a small settlement at Wanganui, between New Plymouth and Wellington, where the town of Petre is laid out. Although possessing a beautiful district with a most agreeable climate, the progress of the settlers at this part has been seriously retarded by the natives, not so much by those in the vicinity of the town, as by some badly-disposed tribes inhabiting the hill country in the rear of the settlement. The river is only safe for small coasters, although a vessel of 300 tons has been taken in.
The Manawatu, another useful river south of Wanganui, flows through a most beautiful and desirable land. This
[Image of page 9]
is the great rural district of the first settlement of the New Zealand Company, where the settlers proposed to have had their stock farms. Some of the most enterprising commenced preliminary operations, but in consequence of the annoyances of the natives through the influence of some adverse chiefs, they were deterred from proceeding.
There are numerous whaling establishments along the coast, as at Table Cape on the east coast, where the river Ahuriri runs through a most valuable track of country, being both level and open, as well as good soil. A complete chain of lakes exists in the interior of the country, comprising Taupo, Roturua, and several others, which run from the mountain Tangariro, and connect with the east coast. Volcanoes are found at this part, with hot springs and basins, which the natives find very handy for cooking purposes. Some of these springs constitute very agreeable baths; the natives use them as such, and frequently remain in the water all day.
The Middle Island has not been so well known as the northern until very recently. It is found to be of much greater extent, and richer in grassy plains and available land than was anticipated, although a range of high mountains runs longitudinally down the country. The vicinity of Banks's peninsula has been long known as a favourite resort for whalers. The small settlement of Akaroa, founded by the French is at this part, also Port Cooper, where the great settlement of Canterbury is proposed to be founded. These harbours being in close connexion with extensive plains of available land, must form formidable rivals of Port Nicholson some day. The land generally to the southward along this coast, is highly commended. The harbour of Otago, which affords every accommodation, received the Scotch settlement, Dunedin being the chief town. The rural sections possess some good available land, extending from Otago to the Molyneux, which is a good, useful river, and the valley a soil of the finest description. This settlement also possesses easy means of communication, both by land and water, which must be found of immense advantage.
The second settlement of the New Zealand Company was
[Image of page 10]
founded in this island, in the locality of Blind Bay, in the month of September, 1841, when the town of Nelson was laid out, although Governor Hobson was desirous of having the settlement made at Mahurangi, which is situated to the northward.
Nelson is formed by a sort of natural breakwater, or bank, composed of large boulders. The bank is a few feet above high-water mark, and averages a quarter of a mile in width, lying parallel with the coast, and joining the land at one extremity. The town is laid out in a basin of 1000 acres, and enjoys a mild and serene climate, being enclosed by hills. The land belonging to this settlement is principally fern, and some of it, like that around Auckland, is considered by judges to be of inferior quality compared with other parts. The Waimea and Moutere districts are the best in this settlement. Coal and limestone are found close by in Massacre Bay, also at other parts along the coast southward.
Like their elder brothers of Port Nicholson, the settlers of Nelson are men of the greatest energy and spirit. It was the misfortune of the settlement to lose some of its best supporters in an attempt to perform the obligations of the Government without the requisite means, on the 17th of June, 1843, when a collision occurred with the natives at the Wairau district, in Cloudy Bay, and Captains Arthur Wakefield and England, Messrs. Thompson, Richardson, Patchet, Cotterell, and Howard, were among the slain. The natives were headed by Te-Rauperaha, and Te-Rangihaeta, chiefs belonging to the opposite side of the straits.
The east coast of this island is still very imperfectly known, but it is certain that very little available land exists, although possessed of several harbours. Stewart's, or the southern island, like many other parts, is at present occupied by whalers, and being of such small extent, will probably be left to these pioneers of civilization for some years to come. The entire European population maybe roughly estimated at 12,000, and the native at 120,000.
The healthiness of the climate of New Zealand forms its
[Image of page 11]
greatest recommendation. The general temperature is even, the thermometer rarely descending below forty-five degrees, during the day, in winter, (which begins in May,) and in summer (commencing in November) seldom rising above eighty-five. It is, however, windy, and not altogether pleasant at some parts to the fresh arrived emigrant. It is fallacious to expect a luxurious climate in New Zealand, but the healthiness of it may be safely asserted. Although the wind does blow, it never feels cold; and to wear a great-coat is quite impossible for a person walking. The designer of this Panorama has frequently been more or less wet for weeks together, day and night, when out on exploring trips. Many of his sketches were made during the rain, or standing up to his middle in a river, or swamp, yet he does not remember ever to have had a cold during the whole time that he was in New Zealand, a period of between three and four years. It must not be understood that these practices are prudent, since they are sure to tell upon any man at last, neither is there any necessity for a colonist to expose himself in this manner.
The Bishop of New Zealand writes as follows of the climate: "No one knows what the climate is, till he has basked in the almost perpetual sunshine of Tasman's Gulf, with a frame braced and invigorated to the full enjoyment of heat by the wholesome frost or cool showy breeze of the night before. And no one can speak of the soil or scenery of New Zealand, till he has seen both the natural beauties and the ripening harvests of Taranaki. When he has sat upon the deck of a vessel sailing to Taranaki, and watched the play of light and shade upon the noble mountain and the woods at its base, and far behind, in the centre of the islands, the thin white wreath of streamy smoke which marks the volcano of Tongariro, and to the south the sister mountain of Ruapaho covered with perpetual snow, --then he may be qualified to speak of the scenery of this country, especially if he has added to his sketch-book the great chain of the southern Alps, which I have lately seen in all their wintry grandeur, stretching in an almost unbroken line from north to south for more than three hundred
[Image of page 12]
miles. And no one can speak of the healthfulness of New Zealand till he has been ventilated by the restless breezes of Port Nicholson, where malaria is no more to be feared than on the top of Chimborazo, and where active habits of industry and enterprise are evidently favoured by the elastic tone and perpetual motion of the atmosphere. If I am not mistaken, no fog can ever linger long over Wellington, to deaden the intellectual faculties of its inhabitants."
It has been observed by more than one traveller, that there is certainly some charm in this country that makes us like it, in spite of the discomforts we at first endure, and which is to be accounted for only by the strong resemblance it bears to England in temperature and productions. "One can scarcely imagine the light heart, the elastic step and feeling of vigour, one so soon acquires here."
The following is a Table of the Climate of London compared to that of Wellington:--
|
|
Mean Annual
Temperature.
|
Mean
of Winter.
|
Mean of
Coldest Month.
|
Mean of
Hottest Month.
|
Average
No. of
Days on
which Rain
falls.
|
Mean Annual
quantity of
Rain in Inches.
|
| London...
|
50.39
|
39.12
|
37.36
|
63.43
|
178
|
24.80
|
| Wellington
|
52.50
|
48.85
|
44.05
|
64.25
|
128
|
28.73
|
