DESCRIPTION OF THE SUBJECTS FORMING THE PANORAMA.
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SUBJECTS
FORMING
THE PANORAMA.
The reader will be kind enough to commence reading the following description from the end, when the Panorama commences moving from that extremity.
THE ENTRANCE TO PORT NICHOLSON IN COOK'S STRAITS.
This view is taken from the range of hills west of the Ohiro valley. This district is known as the Happy Valley, and a fine prospect is obtained of the entrance to Port Nicholson from it. Captain Cook once anchored at the entrance, in the situation of the vessel shown sailing in; and he describes that the natives on either shore came off to him in their canoes. The range of hills in the distance form one side of the harbour, terminating at the sea, by Baring's Head. Lyall's Bay, on the outside, and Evans' Bay on the inside, are also shown, and the Beacons, on each side of the entrance. The snowy mountains exhibited in the distance are the Tarerua range. All that is required to make this harbour complete, is a lighthouse, which, it is to be hoped, will be soon erected. The mount on the left of the picture, is Mount Victoria, near which the town of Wellington is situated. The hills forming the foreground are occupied by sheep and cattle, some of which are represented, with a highland shepherd and his wife.
PANORAMA TAKEN FROM THE TOP OF MOUNT VICTORIA.
The broad expanse of water is Port Nicholson. The valley of the Hutt bounds the further side. Somes' Island lying before, and the Tarerua snowy mountains in the background. As the picture moves on, we perceive Pepitea Point, upon
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which is Thorndon Flat, and Lambton Harbour, along the shores of which the town of Wellington is placed. The hills lying at the back of this part of the town, are the Tinakori range, and the Porerua, Karori, and other districts. The native clearings in the bush may be perceived. Te Aro flat next appears at the foot of the hill, and the picture is terminated by the view towards the sea, Evans' bay being just below, and Lyall's bay on the further side of the sand bar. Burnham Water, and the entrance to the harbour, finish this subject. It is surprising the number of cattle maintained on these hills, and no care whatever is taken of them, yet they are always to be found. Some Stockmen are introduced in the foreground, driving the cattle down into the town.
THE TOWN OF WELLINGTON
may be called the capital of the New Zealand Companies' Settlements. It was founded in the year 1839, and consists of 1100 acres, which were disposed of according to the regulations of the company, independent of reserves for public purposes, town belt, &c. Wellington is situated at the southeast corner of Wanganui Atera, or Port Nicholson, the water frontage, enclosing Lambton Harbour. The character of the country around the port, is mostly hilly and thickly timbered; there is, however, some extent of flat land at the valley of the Hutt, and a good portion in the town; some of the bays on the east side also furnish a few level patches. The population of the town of Wellington was at first confined principally to the two flats--viz., Pepitea, or Thorndon Flat, and Te Aro; the former is not of much extent, but the latter is of tolerable size, and the greater part of the adjoining land is not very hilly. Thorndon Flat may be called the court end of the town, being the neighbourhood of Government House, the Church, Law Courts, Police Court, New-Zealand Company's Survey Office, &c.; while Te Aro accommodates the mercantile community, and comprises the Bank, Exchange, Custom-House, Bonded Stores, and the Merchants' Offices. The gaol is also situated at this part, and the Roman Catholic, and the Wesleyan Chapels; the Scotch Kirk is placed on the beach, which is the grand line of connexion between them. The Independent Chapel is at Thorndon, and there are barracks for the military at both places. Te Aro Flat is situated at the head of the bay, where the vessels in port lie at anchor, which
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accounts for its being adopted for the purposes of business. Thorndon possesses one advantage over Te Aro, in being nearest to the country districts. The main road to Karori commences at a valley at the back of Thorndon, and the route to the Hutt, and to Porerua, from Te Aro, lies directly across Thorndon Flat.
A very considerable quantity of timber surrounding the town, has disappeared, from the constant demands of the inhabitants, and the land has thus been turned into pasture, for the use of the numerous cattle belonging to the inhabitants, by the least expensive process.
The number of settlers inhabiting Wellington and the surrounding districts, is not supposed to be much less in number than 4500, while there are not much above a quarter that number of natives.
We will now suppose ourselves transported to the middle of Thorndon Flat, below, and will take a view round from this spot.
PANORAMA OF WELLINGTON, TAKEN FROM THORNDON FLAT.
The first part which appears, is the Tinakori range, then Mr. Chetham's house, on the lawn in front of which this view was taken. The next scene lies down the beach, towards the head of the bay, the roof of the church of England being shown, the parsonage, the nest of houses at Kumu Toto, the Pa, Windy Point, and Te Aro Flat. Colonel Wakefield's residence now appears on the shore of Lambton Harbour, above which, in the distance, Mount Albert is situated, where the signals are raised to give notice to the town of the approach and passage of vessels in the straits; now Mr. Fox's house, the back of Barrett's hotel, immediately over which is Mount Victoria, and the mass of houses in the rear of the Courts of Justice, Major Richmonds, and the Thistle Inn.
The first point on the other side of the harbour is Point Jerningham, and the next is Point Halswell, between which Evans' Bay is situated. The last point is that round which vessels have to pass upon entering or leaving the port. The hills now seen in the distance are those on the east side of the harbour, and Somes' Island at length appears and the Valley of the Hutt and Tarerua. The compact little residence just below, and next to the foreground, is occupied by Mr.
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Mocatta, and the houses seen beyond comprise the New Zealand Company's survey offices, stores, and the emigration houses, Messrs. Clifford and Vavassour's establishment, &c The road to the Hutt skirts the hills on the left, which terminates this picture. The house in the foreground was built by Dr. Evans, and occupied as his residence; although exposed in situation, and by no means possessed of a remarkably good soil, yet the garden and grounds ever presented a delightful appearance--the shrubs and flowering plants were in a fine state of perfection. There was never any difficulty in cutting a beautiful bouquet even in mid-winter.
TE ARO FLAT, WELLINGTON.
This view shows the head of the bay, as it is called in the colony, with the merchants' stores, &c Commencing our description from the left side of the picture, a rather wide thoroughfare, called Manners Street, may be observed, inclining to the right upwards, from near the lower corner of the picture.
Suppose we pass along it: the first mass of houses on the left, having one larger one with five windows in front, comprise the Southern Star Hotel, the premises of the meat company, a billiard room, and Mr. Edward Taylor's store, which is at the corner of the street. Proceeding on, we pass Fuller's Hotel, and the Theatre on the right, next Messrs. Waite and Tyser's stores, terminated by a jetty at the waterside on the left, Mr. Fitzherbert's stores being behind these. The large building and premises also connected with a jetty beyond, on the left of the road, are Messrs. Ridgeway, Guyton, and Hickson's stores.
The Wesleyan Chapel is the next building sufficiently large to be made out in the view, which is on the right in proceeding along the road; Captain Rhodes' stores and jetty are further up on the left, and Te Aro Pa may be just recognised beyond them.
The mass of houses near the middle of the picture comprise the neighbourhood of Willis Street, &c
Mount Victoria may be observed in the background, over Messrs. Ridgeway's stores, Jerningham Point and Evans' Bay being to the left of it.
The houses on the right side of the view, nearer the fore-
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ground, are Messrs. Stokes' residence and premises, also Mr. Strang's. The natives frequently stack the wood which they cut in the bush on the spot from which this picture was drawn, and some are represented so engaged.
We will now return to the centre of the Town of Wellington, and pass along the beach to the head of the bay, and depict every building of importance as we proceed, commencing at Colonel Wakefield's.
THE LATE COL. WAKEFIELD'S RESIDENCE.
This house was built and occupied by the principal agent of the New Zealand Company. It is situated on a terrace sloping away from the house in nearly every direction. No spot could have been better selected for the purpose. The position appears very prominent and commanding from on board a vessel entering the harbour. The view is taken looking towards the head of the bay, and is painted with an evening effect. It shows Wellington Terrace winding up the hills, separating Thorndon from Te Aro Flat, and which is studded with neat dwellings and gardens. The Colonel's garden, although very much exposed to the wind, contained many choice trees and plants, and was kept in nice order.
THE COURTS OF JUSTICE.
This view is represented with the effect of night coming on. The building was adopted for the purpose for which it is now used, upon the old courts being destroyed by fire, during the period that Mr. Justice Halswell presided over them. The building was also used for the celebration of Divine Service on Sundays, before the erection of the present church. The house next to the Courts, forming the corner of a street, is the Thistle Inn, kept by Mr. Cooper. The line of communication towards the beach and head of the bay proceeds along in this direction, as shown in the view. Mr. Justice Chapman is the judge at present officiating at these Courts.
CHURCH OF ENGLAND.
Dr. Selwyn, the first Bishop of New Zealand, landed at Wellington on the 12th of August, 1842, and introduced the Rev. Robert Cole, M. A. to the settlers, as their future minister,
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who soon succeeded in securing the good will and respect of all classes of the community. After due preparation, a church was built something after the style of the Christian model at home, and of the early English era, and which is represented in the view under the effect of moonlight, with the congregation coming out after the evening service. The back of Colonel Wakefield's house is seen on the right in the picture, with the harbour.
THE SCOTCH KIRK.
This church was opened for divine service on the 7th of January, 1844, under the auspices of the eloquent Rev. John M'Farlane. The picture is painted to represent evening, the service being about to commence.
There is a projecting point on the beach just by, and this church, known as Windy Point or Clay Hill, which is memorable from having stopped a great fire which occurred at Wellington on the night of the 9th of November, 1842, when fifty-seven houses, extending along the beach from Barrett's Hotel to this spot, were consumed, twenty of which were constructed of wood, and the rest made of raupo. If the fire had succeeded in turning this point all the bonded stores and warehouses at the mercantile end of the town must have shared the same fate. The total damage was estimated at £16,000, but disastrous as it was to many, yet it proved beneficial in some respects, for the old raupo wares and toitoi roofs were replaced by substantial brick stores and buildings.
MESSRS. WAITE AND TYSER'S JETTY.
This jetty is constructed on the beach in front of Messrs. Waite and Tyser's Store, and projects into the harbour, so that small vessels can lie alongside of it. The Kate, a vessel commanded by Captain Salmon, is represented discharging and taking in cargo, consisting of whaling gear, wool, &c. The large iron pot or caldron, shown in the foreground, is called a try-pot, and is employed to melt the blubber at the whale fisheries. There are several other jetties erected on the shores of Lambton Harbour.
THE BEACH AT TE ARO.
The view is taken looking up the beach towards Pepitea, and shows some of the stores and shops, comprising those of Messrs. Sutton, Lyon, Boulcott, Wallace, and others.
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THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL.
The Roman Catholic Chapel is situated at Te Aro, near the beach. The Roman Catholic pastor is represented by the Rev. Father O'Reily, a very worthy man, who is highly respected among his flock, as well as by all who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. The road shown to the right in the view leads from the beach along the sides of the hills to Wellington Terrace, which is on the top of the hills.
WESLEYAN CHAPEL AND MISSION HOUSE.
The Wesleyan Chapel at Te Aro is a tolerably large building for a young colony, being 39 feet wide and 48 feet long. Mr. Robert Stokes furnished the design for the building, which appears to be very substantially erected. The walls are formed of brickwork 18 inches thick. This chapel was opened for divine service in December, 1844, under the ministry of the Rev. S. Ironside.
There is an Independent Chapel at Thorndon, which was opened on the 13th of October, 1844, Mr. Woodward being the officiating minister.
The picture represents the Wesleyan Chapel and Mission, looking in a direction towards the beach. The house occupied by the late Mr. Brewer is on the right of the road, the large trench and mound which were formed immediately after the Wairau massacre, for inclosing in certain spots as places of refuge, in case of Wellington being attacked by the natives, being seen in front of it.
MOUNT VICTORIA, WELLINGTON.
There were no less than four mills for grinding corn in Port Nicholson, in a very early stage of the colony; viz., Mr. Catchpool's steam-mill, which was taken there by Dr. Evans, and at work so early as October, 1841; Messrs. Simmons and Hoggart's windmill, which is represented in this view, each of these having one pair of stones; Messrs. Molesworth and Ludlam's new windmill, in the valley of the Hutt, carries two pair; the fourth, near the mouth of the Kai-Warrawarra stream, also has two pair, which are turned by water-power, and the works have been recently completed by the proprietors, Messrs. Mathieson and Schultze.
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Messrs. Simmons and Hoggart's motive-power is the wind, but the motion is conveyed to another building, where the millstones are fitted up.
A road is formed up to the top of Mount Victoria and to Evans' Bay. The cottage at the foot of the hill, called Victoria Cottage, is the farm residence of William Fitzherbert, Esq., one of the first merchants in Wellington.
The flax plant, or Phormium Tenax, luxuriates about this locality, and is presented in the foreground.
The flax plant presents a handsome appearance, with its graceful flower-stems springing above the leaves, the blossoms of which are yellow, and much prized by the natives for the sweet matter within them. The seeds contain an oil of some value, which might be made available for trade. Each plant consists generally of upwards of fifty leaves, similar in shape to the English flax, but considerably longer: perhaps from. 5 to 10 feet long, and 2 to 4 inches wide, when the blade is closed; for each blade is folded down the centre longitudinally, the two leaves being joined together and doubled. They, however, gradually open at a certain distance above the surface of the ground, and the inner side is glossy and covered with a glutinous substance.
The flax has long been employed for shipping purposes, and the natives use it for their ropes, mats, nets, baskets, &c. They prepare it by scraping the green vegetable matter from each blade by the aid of a mussel-shell, and the white man has not yet succeeded in improving upon the native process, although there is evidently a great opening for it in Europe for numerous purposes. The natives having cut a number of leaves from the centre of the plant, tie them in bundles, and carry them to their pa to prepare. Each leaf is first divided longitudinally, and a cross cut made in the middle, or otherwise near the thick end of the leaf, and on the outer face, sufficiently deep to penetrate the vegetable substance on this side. The blades are next scraped on the outer face with a muscle-shell, commencing from the transverse cut, when the fibres are all that remain of the leaf. A native can scrape about 10lbs. of flax per diem, and upon a sufficient quantity being scraped, it is made into mats and other useful articles.
There are several kinds of flax, and it is all known to the natives by the general name of Karari. That which grows on the hills is considered the best, although not so large as the flax found in swamps. Much injury is done in the home
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market, in consequence of the difficulty, if not impossibility, of confining the natives to the cultivation of the best sorts of flax. They also cut it just when it suits them, instead of at the proper time of the year, which they are perfectly acquainted with. The flax was formerly cultivated with the greatest care; the finest flax, which almost rivalled silk in softness and beauty, was reserved for their best mats, but the common, coarse flax is the kind supplied to the white people, so that it is highly necessary that we should possess means of cleaning it ourselves. The flax intended for fine mats also undergoes much additional labour; it is repeatedly soaked in water, beaten and twisted, and dried again. There is a brittle and glossy skin always left upon it after the first cleaning, which may be removed by hackling. Mr. E. J. Wakefield estimates the chaff-like skin at twelve per cent, of the scraped fibre, the remaining eighty-eight parts consisting of straight, clean fibre and tangled tow.
The expense of shipping the flax home presents a great impediment to its cultivation; and from not being understood in the home markets, the colonial merchants frequently lost money by it formerly; a remarkable change, however, has occurred at recent sales, when it realized remunerating prices, which will no doubt have its due effect upon the colonists.
This view shows the termination of the town of Wellington in this direction. We will therefore proceed once more to the centre of the town, and travel from thence through the country and over the hills to the Wairarapa district.
BARRETT'S HOTEL.
This house was taken out from England by Dr. Evans originally, but was subsequently purchased by Mr. Richard Barrett, and opened as an hotel. It is now kept by Mr. Suisted, who has greatly improved it, and who looks and acts the host to perfection. Mrs. Suisted, also, by her attention to the necessary details, contributes much to the comfort of the visitors. The projecting wing consists of a billiard-room below and a Freemason's hall above, and was built by the present landlord. The house beyond the hotel is Medical Hall, Messrs. Dorset and Sutton; and the hills forming the east side of the harbour, and the district of the Hutt, bound the view.
The scene represented in the foreground is the arrival of
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Governor Grey, who has just landed on the jetty from the man-of-war's boat. A guard of honour is drawn up to receive him, and all the colonists are flocking to pay their respects to him. The usual style of costume in the colony is not lost sight of in this composition, but everything is attempted to be rendered true.
MAJOR RICHMOND'S RESIDENCE.
This was originally the house belonging to Mr. Levein, the eminent artist in New Zealand wood, and was subsequently purchased by Major Richmond. It is situated on Thorndon Flat, and the street shown passes across the flat. Major Harnbrook's store is shown on the opposite side of the road, and Pipitea Point and Pa below. Wade's Town and the Hutt are in the distance.
PIPITEA POINT.
There is a Pa, or native town, on this point, enclosed with stockades. Spots of this character are much esteemed by the Maoris, as they present great facilities for hauling up their canoes. The Tarerua range of mountains is shown in the distance. A party of natives are represented as arriving on a visit to those belonging to the Pa. One of the chiefs is in the act of throwing a spear towards the visitors, which is the Maori sign of welcome; rubbing of noses and feasting next follow. Even European visitors sometimes find it to their interest to rub noses with the natives; and whatever is set before a guest, if not eaten, must on no account be returned, but carried off as honourable spoil.
INTERIOR OF THE PA.
The Pa is divided into a number of court-yards and alleys by stockading, and each family has its own apartments. The houses have a sort of covered verandah or porch in front, where the women work mats, as represented in the painting, and the men lie about or smoke. The ornamental pigeon-house looking places, elevated on posts, are provision stores, and are so placed to be out of the reach of rats and dogs.
THE BEACH OPPOSITE MAJOR BAKER'S HOUSE.
This view represents a portion of the Pitone road. The roof only of Major Baker's house is to be seen peeping
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above the bank by the side of the tree. The road to Wade's Town is shown at the point where it leaves the beach and the Red-house, or Barracks, above it. Some of the houses towards Kai-Warrawarra appear in the distance.
NGA HOURANGA.
The Nga Houranga stream is situated on Section 8 of the harbour district, and is not too deep for horses to ford on the road to the Hutt. There is a native Pa on this spot, where the famous chief Warepori resided; he was the great fighting general of his tribe, and one of the most celebrated among the Maori's inhabiting Port Nicholson at the period of arrival of the first body of settlers. There is a story related of his having been capsized in his canoe, near Somes' Island, in a heavy sea, when he swam to the Nga Houranga, a distance of two miles. He was afflicted with a tumour in his head latterly, which terminated fatally. His remains were interred at Pitone, and the natives of his Pa erected a monument to his memory at Nga Houranga, which is represented in the scene. A large canoe was first sawn into three pieces transversely, the middle part was then supported on six posts, and the two extremities placed together and raised up on their ends, a bunch of feathers terminating the top. A small effigy of Warepori was also set up by the side. The monument was finished by painting with red ochre, ornamented with scroll work, and tapued, or rendered sacred.
The restriction of the tapu is common throughout most of the islands of the South Seas., It is generally applied by the chiefs to standing crops, storehouses, and habitations, roads, animals, women, &c. Whatever is tapued is held sacred, and cannot be touched, used, or meddled with, under pain of death, until the tapu be removed. The custom is fast dying away in New Zealand.
PITONE PA.
Upon the arrival of the first settlers at Port Nicholson they pitched their tents along the beach, near E Puni's Pa, or Pitone, which is represented in this subject. Some of the large wares were built for the settlers by the natives, and occupied by them until their removal to Wellington, the town having been originally laid out at this part, but subsequently shifted to Pipitea. The large wooden building shown to the
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left in the painting, is the native chapel, and the hills beyond form the east side of the district of the Hutt.
The natives generally live together in small fortified villages, called Pas, which are inclosed with stockades and trenches. They are sometimes built of great strength, and on elevated spots. These Pa's, which are presided over by a single chief, frequently contain from one to two thousand Maori's; they consequently comprise a large number of subdivisions and alleys, as each family has a separate inclosure, in which one or more huts are built. Low stiles are laid across the entrances to keep the pigs in or out as may be desired, and no Pa is to be found without pet pigs and dogs, and not unfrequently cats and fowls. The name of Kainga is given to an uninclosed settlement, which consists of a few huts only.
The native huts are very low, particularly the side walls. There is a sort of covered entrance to some, formed by the prolongation of the roof at one end beyond the wall of the house. This portion may be called the porch, and is tastefully lined with reeds, and ornamented with curious barge boards outside, and carving next the roof, which is painted over with red ochre. The cooking is generally performed out of doors.
The better sort of native ware, and those built by the natives for white men, are tolerable good houses; they are formed of uprights or posts of Totara timber, about two feet broad and six inches thick, and placed at intervals of about five feet, and let into the ground. A plate of timber passes along the top of these uprights, upon which the roof rests; the latter is generally hipped in large buildings, which gives it a similar shape to the thatched roof of an English cottage. Two tie-beams are laid across the house, and one or two poles, ornamented with carved figures, are set upright on the ground, and employed to give extra support to the ridge-piece. The sides of the house are neatly covered with reeds, and the top substantially thatched in the native fashion, which keeps out the rain very effectually.
The Maori's at this Pa are particularly peaceable. It is remarkable that the natives generally are evidently on the decline, as respects population, notwithstanding their fine physical appearance, and all that has been done to preserve the race. It is impossible to ascribe this to any other cause than their partial use and enjoyment of European productions and their recent change of life. The small number of native children born is remarkable, and even these are wonderfully subject to disease.
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MORING'S CREEK AT THE HUTT.
The view is near Pitone. The land on the right in the picture is rather swampy, but is being drained and brought into cultivation by the Hon. H. Petre, whose residence and premises are shown in the distance across the swamp.
The hills at the back of Wellington are seen in the distance.
THE AGLIONBY ARMS AT THE HUTT.
The nucleus of a village has been formed by Mr. Daniel Riddiford, on his Section, No. 17, in the Lower Hutt, which he has named Aglionby; and Mr. Burcham built the hotel, shown in the view upon it, for the accommodation of visitors to this fine district. Mr. Riddiford's stock yard is shown in the view on the left of it, and the entire scene possesses a quiet, rural appearance. The district of the Hutt is celebrated as the great agricultural district of Port Nicholson, the soil being of great depth, and consisting of rich black mould.
RESIDENCE OF THE LATE FRANCIS MOLESWORTH, ESQ., AT THE HUTT.
This represents both the house and clearing, previous to which it was covered with the densest forest, but most of the trees and bush are now removed. Although it is highly desirable to leave some of the bush standing, this is found very difficult to accomplish, as well as dangerous, for the trees and branches are apt to die, and as they become dry they often catch fire, and endanger the settler's house and crops, during the summer months, when extensive fires are made in the new clearings throughout the country of all the prostrate timber. This generally takes place in January or February. High fern invariably springs up wherever the forest has been cleared any time, which becomes the next thing to eradicate. The roots of this fern seem to furnish a highly farinaceous substance, which in former days constituted the chief support of the natives, and the wild pigs are very fond of, and fatten well upon it.
Mr. Molesworth was one of the most enterprising of the settlers who emigrated under the auspices of the New Zealand Company. He brought a tolerable quantity of land into cul-
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tivation at his farm on the Hutt, where he will be long remembered for his kindness, hospitality, and the manly bearing which he exhibited on all public occasions. He was among the first of the gentlemen of Wellington who volunteered to return in the government brig to the scene of the Wairrau massacre on the occasion of the Victoria arriving at Port Nicholson for aid and assistance. His farm was in the best state of cultivation, and his garden well stocked with fruit-trees and plants from England.
The view shows Mr. Molesworth's house, and the stables, &c It is taken from the log bridge, which is carried across a small creek near the premises.
FORT RICHMOND, AND THE HUTT BRIDGE.
The Hutt Bridge was erected by the New Zealand Company, and opened in the month of April, 1844. The view is taken looking down the river, and also shows Fort Richmond. This fortress was erected under the direction of Captain Compton, an enterprising settler on the Hutt. It is planned on the model of those in the United States of America, to guard against the incursions of the Indians. The stockade is arranged in the form of a square of ninety-five feet, with towers of defence, or block-houses, at two of the opposite angles, which command the bridge and the river on both sides. It is composed of slabs of wood nine feet six inches high, and five to six inches thick, and is musket proof. One of the block-houses is fifteen, and the other twelve feet square. The fort was erected at a cost of £124, independent of the value of the timber, which was presented by Mr. Compton, and voluntary labour to the amount of £54. 10s is included in the above statement of the cost.
RESIDENCE OF WILLIAM SWAINSON, ESQ. F.R.S.
Mr. Swainson's house is situated between Fort Richmond and Mr. Boulcott's farm. The late outrages of the Porerua natives at the Hutt therefore occurred close to his house, which is situated on section 31 of the Lower District. Impelled by his love of the country to "face the bush" much sooner than ordinary colonists, he was much annoyed by the natives, but he will now reap the reward of his labours, his troublesome neighbours having been driven away.
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MAKAENUKU PA--AT THE HUTT.
This Pa has been built, and the extensive potato grounds around it cleared entirely within the memory of the present settlers. It was occupied by the Porerua and some other troublesome natives, who acknowledged Rauperaha and Rangihaeta as their chiefs. The former is called the Ariki or chief ruler of the tribes inhabiting the west coast of Cook's Straits. These intruders have, however, been driven away at last, never, it is to be hoped, to molest the settlers more.
During the period that Rangihaeta was in arms against the local government at the southern extremity of the northern island, a party of natives, about two hundred strong, attacked the advanced outpost in the valley of the Hutt, on the 16th May, 1846; they were, however, repulsed, although not without some loss on our side.
The natives were led by Mamaku, a chief from Wanganui, and the dawn of day was selected for the attack, according to the custom of native warfare. The Maori's crawling along the ground, among the underbush and trees, got close to the sentry before he discovered them, who, however, succeeded in giving an alarm, when he was tomahawked. The piquet were quartered in a canvas tent, which formed a conspicuous mark for the natives, who fired a volley through it before the men could rise from their beds, the muskets being directed just above the surface of the ground. The soldiers instantly turned out and charged the natives, and kept them at bay until a reinforcement arrived, when the Maori's were repulsed and driven across the river.
THE HUTT ROAD.
This view is taken from the gorge separating the lower from the upper valley, and looking towards Wellington. The road is carried through every variety of forest, and is sometimes formed in side-cutting.
Nearly all the trees in the New Zealand forests are evergreens, and present a very diversified character, according to the nature of the soil. On rich alluvial soil, trees of the largest growth flourish, as the Rata, Pukatea, Kaikatea, Mai, Totara, Rimu, Tawa, and numerous other kinds. They are accompanied by dense underbush and supplejack thickly matted in every direction, with numerous creepers and para-
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sitical plants, and the ground is covered with dwarf ferns in great variety. As the soil becomes of less depth and clay appears, the Rimu pine becomes more prominent, and on high hills and terraces of cold clay the Towai only is seen; the forest becomes park-like and quite open, like those of Australia, with very little underbush and no supplejacks; the ferns covering the ground resemble mosses, and are soft as velvet to the feet.
Some of the timber is admirably adapted for ship-building. The Totaro is the most valuable tree in the southern parts, to which it is confined; the wood resembles cedar in appearance, and is prized by the natives for canoes. It is extremely durable and also very beautiful, and valuable for ornamental purposes. The Kaikatea is another pine, with a very clean white wood, and closely allied to the Kauri. The latter has long been held in the highest estimation for masts and spars, &c, being very light in weight. It prevails only at the northern parts of the island, and is sometimes found with a trunk equal to 40 or 50 feet in circumference, and 100 to 120 feet high without a branch, the total height of the tree being from 200 to 230 feet. Those usually cut for shipment are about 10 feet in circumference. In some experiments lately made in this country, this wood resisted decay better than all the other specimens tried. The Rata is one of the largest trees of the forest, and the wood is very hard; the trunk is of a twisted and crooked form, with numerous stems growing up in sort of clusters. The tree has very small leaves, and is covered all over with red myrtle blossom at the time of flowering. The young tree is very seldom seen standing alone, but always found entwined round the trunks of other large trees of the forest, which serve as supports for it, until the rata at length occupies the site of the tree on which it grew, and destroys all trace of it. The writer has seen the trunk of a Pukatea tree with several small rata stems from 4 to 6 inches diameter inside of it. He has also measured a rata growing on the top of a high saddle-backed hill skirting the river Hutt, 56 feet in circumference, perfectly truncated, and of proportionate height. The forest in which this tree grew was of the ordinary character, but it towered so high above all the other trees, that on viewing it afterwards from the hill on the opposite side of the river, it appeared almost solitary. The Mira is a heavy wood, and well adapted for the same purposes as lignum vitae, but it may be procured in
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almost any sizes; some of it is also very beautiful. The Hinau is a tree of rather contorted appearance; the wood is very ornamental, and the bark celebrated for dyeing purposes; the natives obtain their black dye from it with which they ornament their mats. The bark is stripped off the tree and soaked in water, and the flax to be dyed placed in it, which is afterwards taken out and merely rubbed in the bottom of some muddy stream containing iron in a state of suspension, which is a common character in many of the streams in New Zealand. The bark of the Tanakaka affords the natives a red dye for their Kaitaka mats. The common red ochre with which they paint their persons and houses, &c, is procured by digging in the beds of streams. The bark of the Hinau and Towai, or black birch, are also much valued for tanning purposes; the wood of the latter makes excellent staves for ton butts. The Tawa is a valuable wood for the bivouac, as it burns in a green state. The Pitau, or arborescent fern, abounds everywhere; it is frequently to be seen upwards of 30 feet high; and, together with the Nikau, resembles the palm in appearance. Many of the fruits and berries are said to contain a valuable oil, as Titoki, which has been sent to England and tried for the finer parts of machinery. The fruit somewhat resembles raspberry in taste and appearance, with a black kernel in the middle, from which the oil is extracted. This tree is tall but rather slight, and the wood, when cut, is white, like the ash, and is prized by the bushmen for axe-handles.
THE UPPER HUTT DISTRICT.
This view is from a high terrace, on section 180, looking down the river. The country is heavily timbered; some old native clearings and gardens, appear on the sides of the hills opposite.
Although the forests are not very thickly inhabited by the feathered tribes, there are many birds to be met with, as the wild pigeon, which is extremely large, and very common; the parrot, or kaka, and the tui, or mocking-bird, which is about the size of the English blackbird, and of the same colour, but with two bunches of white feathers under the neck; his notes are few in number, but very melodious, resembling the tinkling of small bells, which harmonize together as they are delivered. They are all very good eating. Birds of prey, as the falcon, hawk, owl, and numerous others are. found. Small teal, snipe,
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and ducks, are generally met with at the mouths of rivers. The bush frequently resounds at mid-day, during the summer months, with the buzzing of a large beetle, which lives in the trunks of fallen trees.
There is a small owl in the forest, that shrieks out, "More pork," as he flies, and has frequently been the cause of misunderstanding among new comers. On one occasion, the officer commanding a picket at the Hutt, drawn up an hour before daylight, in anticipation of an attack from Mamaku, was roused to a high state of passion, by the repeated demands for "more pork," from his men, as he thought, notwithstanding his commands that they should cease talking, and threatening to place the first under arrest who made any more allusions to pork. It was not until he went down the line in search of the offender, when he was assailed from the trees on all sides, by "more pork," among the irresistible giggle of the men, that the real culprits were discovered.
TE HERO PASS.
This represents a low part of the Remutaka Mountains and the Valley of the Otiwera, which leads to the Wairarapa plains, shown in the distance. The writer was accompanied down this ravine during an exploring excursion for the Hutt road, by the chief, A Kuri, and a party of men and natives who undertook to show him the route by which he used formerly to fall upon the Nga-te-kahuhnu, or the tribe occupying the plains below, and slaughter them. This chief had, in fact, almost depopulated this part of the country, and was continually pointing out the sites of battles, and enumerating the names of the chiefs, on either side.
SCENE IN THE WAIRARAPA.
The Wairarapa is unquestionably the most important district to the settlers of Port Nicholson. It extends in a level plain far into the interior of the country, within two lofty ranges of hills, which form the heads of Palliser Bay. The writer became early impressed with the importance of connecting this valuable country with Wellington, while engaged on his official duties in the colony. He succeeded in laying out a very direct road to it up the Valley of the Hutt and across the Pakuratihi.
The grand recommendation of the Wairarapa is the variety
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in the character of the country. We have abundance of prairie grass, and fern land, for pastoral purposes; a sufficiency of timber for building and fuel, with hills in the distance to fall back upon. There is quite as much swamp as need be wished, and a river affording a good means of transit. It is unnecessary to call attention to the facilities afforded by an open country in this respect
This district is at present occupied by squatters, who did not, however, take possession without leave, but have rented it of the natives, which they use as stock farms. There are nearly twenty of these farms there, and large flocks of sheep, with great numbers of oxen and horses. The wild pigs, which are from the stock turned out in the country by Captain Cook, are extremely numerous, and very useful as food to the stock keepers.
A boar or pig hunt is represented in this picture.
The Panorama next exhibits a party of surveyors and men bivouacking in the bush. Many nights has the writer spent in this manner. The surveyors first explore the country, and trace the rivers and hills, and then cut the lines through the forest necessary for the survey. A pocket compass is indispensable. A surveyor will distinguish a line in the forest, when an ordinary person can see nothing but trees, and a line, be it remembered, answers as a road through the forest. Some men are even so expert, as to be able to track a person through wild country, by the disturbance he has created among the shrubs and fern. The consequences of losing the line is quite sufficient to keep the traveller constantly on the qui vive, and he accordingly learns to notice the most trifling irregularities of the country. The several varieties of trees, and their size, are observed--banks, and the direction of the flow of water in streams. The encampment is always made near a stream, for the convenience of water, and the ware or hut, built open in the front, with the roof running down to the ground at the back. It is formed of poles, covered and enclosed with bark or fern. An immense fire is constantly kept up in front, day and night. The surveyors' fare consists of salt pork and dampers, or bread made in the bush, without yeast--pigeons, ducks, and eels, also make a change; their beverage is tea, and their luxuries pipes and tobacco.
The next picture is a view in another part of the Wairarapa, with the lake and one of the rivers connecting with it. The
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figures introduced represent the chief, A Kuri, who undertook to be my guide on my exploring trip to this part; being surprised by a party of natives of the valley, the Nga-te-kahunu, although so fierce at his stealing in upon them "at the back door," as they looked upon his visit from the hills instead of going round the coast, yet such was the effect of his eloquence that he perfectly satisfied them that his intentions were good, --he only came to introduce his friends the white men to them. He slaughtered nearly two thousand of them by treachery near this spot, on the occasion of his visit before this, and, with his tribe, ate them afterwards.
The Otiwera river winding at the foot of the hills finishes this subject.
THE BAR OF THE WAIRARAPA.
The view shows the only impediment to the present progress of this district, the sand bar separating the lake from the sea.
TE KOPI.
This is a large Pa, on the sea coast, and near the Wairarapa, in Palliser Bay. There is a large Whaling Station on the point shown in the distance.
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