[CONTENTS]
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
The harbour of Port Nicholson, 1; The aspect of the City of Wellington, 5; Presentation of my letters of introduction, 6; I commence business, 7; My two rivals, 7; Their conduct towards me, 8; Our first Christmas Day in New Zealand, 9; My entrance into partnership, 10; Wellington and its political state, 10; We tender for a public work, 11; A Letter--"The History of a Job," 12; I become acquainted with Mr. Fitzherbert, 15; Our Partnership dissolved, 16; The gold diggings, 17; Wreck of the "Maria," 18.
CHAPTER II.
Contrast between Wellington and London, 21; My first Government contract, 23; Official obstructions to my obtaining it, 24; Its progress and completion, 25; A Draper's excuse for not attending in Court as a Juryman, 27; His fine, 27; His letter in the "Independent," 28; Legal proceedings against him for writing it, and against the Publisher for printing it, 28; Judge Stephen in Court, 29; The sentence and the results, 30; Wellington and the Australian Gold Diggings, 33.
CHAPTER III.
The New Zealand Constitution of 1852, 35; An account of the Government Bills which preceded it, 36; and Sir George Grey's connection therewith, 37; An outline of the Constitution of 1852, 40; The persons to whom the Constitution owes its origin and present form, 46; Sir George Grey, 47; Review of his character and mode of government, 48; Fox's letter to Earl Grey, 51; The answer, 52; Extracts from Sir John Packington's Despatch, 53; The Settlers' Constitutional Association, 55; Letter from Mr. Fox respecting it, 56; Extract from Mr. Gladstone's speech on the Constitution of 1852, 57.
CHAPTER IV.
Remarkable Wellington events in 1853, 59; Arrival of E. G.
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Wakefield in the Colony, 60; Proclamations respecting the Constitution, 61; Sir George Grey's reduction of the price of land, 62; Address to Mr. Wakefield on his arrival in Wellington, 63; Wakefield's opposition to Governor Grey, 63; The reduction in the price of land, 63; Its causes and consequences, 64; The Small Farm Association, 66; Its origin and nature, 67; Mr. Wakefield becomes unpopular, 70; His character, 70; He finds popularity and a constituency in the Hutt, 72; The inauguration of the Constitution of 1852, 74; The Elections, 75; A dinner given to Sir George Grey, 77.
CHAPTER V.
My first journey into the interior, 80; I arrive at the Pilot Station, 81; A cold bed, 82; Early rising, and crossing the "Heads," 82; The Lighthouse and its keeper, 83; The seashore and the road before me, 84; A deserted Pah, 85; I arrive at a deep and rapid stream, 85; An awkward water-fix overcome, 86; A house in sight and entered, 87; The sea-shore and solitude, 88; The Muku Muku Rocks bar the way, 89; A night's lodging under laurel trees, 91; I pass the rocks and take possession of a Settler's house, 92; The Wairarapa valley, 93; A night at the Ferry house, 94; Its white host and brown hostess, 95; A night and a day at a sheep station, 99; I am joined by a Knight--we travel down the valley 102; Decoyed into a deep creek, 103; We cross a rapid river, 105; The rest of my journey to Wellington, 106.
CHAPTER VI.
My business in 1854, 108; The first and second Sessions of the General Assembly, 109; The seat of Government and the Wakefields, 109; A new name for a new Ministry, 110; A "scene" in the House, 110; Mr. E. G. Wakefield's retirement into seclusion, 112; An earthquake, 112; Its effects, 113; Confidence restored, 115; Rival newspaper accounts of it, 115; Commander Drury's descriptions of it, 116; Auckland earthquakes, 119; A new Governor arrives, 120; Enlargement of the Provincial Council, 121; Seat of Government, 121; A Wakefield opposition growing up, 122.
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CHAPTER VII.
Bright prospects for Wellington in 1857, 123; E. J. Wakefield leader of an Opposition, 125; My contract for the Government buildings, 126; Dr. Featherston and Mr. Welch candidates for the Superintendency, 128; The elections for the Provincial Council, 129; The flood in the Hutt, 130; Mr. Welch becomes Clerk to the Council, 131; Proceedings of the Provincial Council, 132; The Superintendent resigns, 135; St. Hill a candidate, 136; A duel imminent, 137; A Wellington Shakespeare, 140; Our election tactics, 142; The nomination and polling days, 142; Another contest, 143; Victorious again, 144; I become a candidate for a seat in the General Assembly, 144; The war, 146; Provincial Council Dissolved, 147; Our opponents beaten, 147; E. G. Wakefield retires 148; The Waihohine Bridge, and the Odd Fellows' Hall, 149.
CHAPTER VIII.
Our arrival in Auckland, 150; Opening of the House, 151; Govenor Browne, and Mrs. Gore Browne, 151; An Island Pic-nic party and its amusements, 153; A steamer wrecked and the consequences, 156; Events of the Session and its close, 158; Our return, and more elections and more successes, 159; Another steam trip to Auckland, 160; Incidents of the passage, 161; The House opened, 161; The vote of want of confidence debate, 162; Difficulties encountered in the formation of a new Ministry, 165; Governor Grey's re-appointment, 170; Richmond's vote of want of confidence, 175; Southern Members and the War, 175; The return passage, via Taranaki to Wellington, 178; The Maori battle fields, 178.
CHAPTER IX.
Sir George Grey's return to New Zealand, 181; His welcome to Wellington, 181; Pheasants and Deer introduced, 182; My journey to the east coast, I lose the track and find a Maori Warre, 185; I am housed, smoked and fed, 186; The Parliament meets in Wellington, 189; How an old Ministry goes out and a new one comes in, 190; The vanity of human expectations, 191; I decide on a visit to England, 193; Native war alarms and excitement in Wellington, Wairarapa, and the Hutt, 195; The alarms subside, and I dispose of my business, 197.
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CHAPTER X.
The arrival at Auckland, 198; We find a Ministry out, and a new one wanted, 199; Auckland and the War, 200; General Cameron, 200; Meremere evacuated, 201; The Confiscation Act, 201; Origin of the United Action of Cook's Straits Members on the Seat of Government question, 201; Their proceedings in and out of the House, 202; Dr. Featherston's illness, 205; Successful results of the Seat of Government Agitation, 207; A dinner at Government House, 209; The assault on Rangiriri, 211; My visit to the prisoners, 214; A verbal sketch of the three F-s, 216; Remarks on Fitzgerald, 225; I leave Auckland and set out on my travels, 227.
Part Third
CHAPTER XI.
Our arrival in Port Jackson, 228; The City of Sydney--singing locusts, 229; A hot wind, and Parramatta River, 230; Melbourne, its Houses, Streets, and River, 231; King George's Sound and Albany, 232; The Australian Natives, 233; Our steamer "Northam," 233; We drop anchor in the Harbour of Point de Galle, 235; Besieged by Hotel Touters, 236; A bed at our Hotel, 237; A trip into the Interior, 238; Tropical Scenery and Alligators, 239; The Cinnamon Gardens and Cocoa Nut Groves, 240; The Town of Galle, 240; The Sea Port of Aden, 241; Voyage in the "Carnatic" up the Red Sea, 242; Amusemonts on Board, 243; We land at Suez, 243.
CHAPTER XII.
Suez, its People and its Houses, 244; M. De Lessep's Canals, 246; The Fellaheen, 246; The Desert, 247; Cairo, 248; Its Inhabitants, 249; The Women, 249; The country between Cairo and Alexandria, 250; City,of Alexandria, 252; A visit to the Bazaars, 252; Cleopatra's Needle, 253; Pompeys' Pillar, 254; A funeral procession, 255; A scene in the Grand Square, 255; Leave Egypt and arrive at Valetta in Malta, 257; A Carnival, 258; The Knights of St. John, 259; St. John's Church, 260; The Governor's Palace, 260; Garibaldi's Island, 261; Marseilles,
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261; Paris, 263; Once more in Old England, 264.
CHAPTER XIII.
I am in London, 265; Meeting with an old friend, 266; A Theatrical mistake, 266; Garibaldi's entry into London, 267; The Prince of Wales in Hyde Park, 267; Palmerston in Parliament, 268; Off to see Chester, 270; Liverpool, its Town Hall, 271; Birkenhead and an Iron-clad, 271; Preston, its Cotton Manufactories, 272; Kendal, 273; My reflections there, 274; The Lakes, 276; Furness Abbey and Barrow Iron Works, Sterling Castle, and the view from its Ramparts, 276; The Highlands of Scotland, 277; Glasgow, 279; Newport and Crumlin, 280; A Coal Mine, 281; Bristol and Clifton, 282; Three Cathedral Cities, 282; The Isle of Wight, 283; Shakespeare's House 285; The Derby Day, 287.
CHAPTER XIV.
A Journey from London to the Jura Mountains, 288; The ascent and descent of the Jura range by railway, 290; Neuchatel and its Lake, 91; Swiss railway carriages, 292; Swiss country, 292; Lucerne--"its Lion"--its Walls--and its Bridges, 293; Lake-of-the-Four-Cantons, 295; William Tell's Chapel, 296; Incidents of the passage over the Pass of St. Gothard, 296; Journey from Bellinzona to Como, 302; Magenta-coloured fowls, 303; A trip on the Lake of Como, 303; The Plains of Lombardy, 305; Milan--its "Arch of Peace"--Amphitheatre --and its Cathedral, 306; A Saint in a Crystal Coffin, 308; Milan to Yerona, 310; The Roman Amphitheatre, 311; We are near a city called the "Beautiful," 311.
CHAPTER XV.
The City of Venice, 312; A new style of omnibus, 313; The Grand Canal by moonlight, 314: The Rialto, 315: A Gondola 315: Palazzos, 316: Canale di San Marco, 317: The Cathedral of St. Mark, 317: Two Columns, 318: The Bell Tower, 319: The Doge's Palace, 319: The Bridge of Sighs, 321: The Prisons, 322: The Arsenal, 324: Venetian incidents and Particulars, 324: At Verona again, 326: On the road to Florence, 326: Cross the flooding Po, 327: Aspect of the country and Bologna, 327: Crossing the Apennines, 227:
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Florence--its Duomo, 328: The Pitti Palace and Pitti Picture Galleries, 329: The Museum, Galileo, and the Uffizi Gallery, 330: Off to Piza, 331: Its Leaning Tower, &c., 331: Leghorn, and arrival at Civita Yecchia, 333.
CHAPTER XVI.
From Civita Vecchia to Rome, by rail, 334: The Tiber, 335: The Eternal City, Past and Present, 336: The Coliseum and the Arch of Constantine, 338: I engage a Roman Guide, 341: The Corso, 342: The Piazza del Popolo, 342: The Pincian Hill, 343: A Grand Basilica, 344: A muddy river, 345: The Castle of St. Angelo, 346: A Modern Temple of God, 346: St. Peter's Statue and Kissing Toe, 349: The Vatican and its treasures of art, 351: Sun-rise and a View over Rome, 352 :A fine fountain, 353; Bridges over the Tiber, 353: Horatius Codes, 354: The Jews' Quarter--II Ghetto, 354: The Temples of Fortune and Vesta, 354: Arches--Severus, Janus and Quadrifrons, 355: The Oldest of Sewers, 355: The Roman Forum and its Ruins, 356: The Capitol and the Tarpeian Rock, 358: The Pantheon and other Monuments, 359.
CHAPTER XVII.
We leave Rome by Railway, 362: Aqueducts and the Via Appia, 363: Aspect of the country and arrival at Naples, 364: its appearance, 365; A Neapolitan Conveyance, 366: A Visit to Pompeii, 367: Its streets and houses, 367; Petrified human bodies, 367: Temples, Forum, and Theatre, 370: Temple of Isis, 370: A stream of water, 371: We commence the Ascent of Mount Vesuvius, 372: A field of lava, 373: Troublesome Guides, 374; Difficulties encountered in the ascent, 375: The Crater, 377; Return to Naples, 378: The Toledo and Royal Academy, 379: We embark and depart from Naples, 380: An Italian breakfast on board a steamer, 380: We land at Genoa, its aspect, &c., 381: We are in Turin, 382: A late riot, 383: Turin and its vicinity from La Superga, 383; Particulars respecting our passage over Mont Cenis, 385: Geneva, 386: Meeting of the Two Rivers, 387: A Shaving Incident at Dieppe, 387: End of my Continental Tour, 388.
CHAPTER XVIII.
London in 1866, 389: Its streets, 390: A scene near London
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Bridge, 391: The Bridges across the Thames, 391: The Embankment, 395: Local Bates, 396: Wages, 396: Street Boys, 397: The Foundling Hospital, 398: Advertising, 399: Parish Newspapers, 400: Railways and Improvements, 400: Street Architecture, 402: Metropolitan Peculiarities, 404: Reading Room and Library of the British Museum, 408: The Kensington Museum, 408: The Crystal Palace, 409.
CHAPTER XIX.
Particulars respecting a Wharf and Patent Slip for the City of Wellington, 409: My Appointment as Emigration Agent, 410: Dr. Featherston's Letter, 413: I am appointed Engineer, 415: Myself and my Wairarapa Constituents, 416: A Day with G. R. Stephenson, 417: Concluding Remarks, 419.
ERRATA.
In Yol. I., page 136, line 13, for the words, "went to Melbourne," read " started for New York." In the same page, at line 14, omit the words "and so did," and after the word "joiner" at line 15, add the words, "went to Melbourne." In Vol. II., at page 42, line 17, read "appointed," for the word "elected." Page 46, line 16, read "par." for "clause." Ditto at page 48. Page 47, line 23, read " Colonial" for "Home." Page 56, line 8, read " Representative" for "Representation." Page 82, line 17, read " whare" for "warre." Ditto at page 94. Page 188, line 24, read "taiwas" for "tivers." Page 217, line 15, (in sketch of Dr. Featberston) read "Olympus" for "Jane Forbes." Page 241, line 20, read "Socotra" for "Soctra." Page 312, in contents, line 3, read "Marco" for "Mark." Page 324, line 9, read "Simond" for " Simonds." Page 392, line 23, read "principle" for "principal." At page lviii. in foot note of the appendix, omit all the words after the words "shall be formed."
