A DISMAL VOYAGE.
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A DISMAL VOYAGE.
WEDNESDAY, 21st. --At 3 p. m. got under weigh, and proceeded to sea. 7 a. m. --The pilot left us. Looking back, I took a long farewell of the town of Kingston, and old Port Royal.
Saturday, 24th. --Lost sight of the Island of Jamaica, which was no sorrow to me.
Tuesday, 27th. --Passed Cape Antona, in the Island of Cuba.
Wednesday, 28th. -The wind blew a gale, and the rain came down in torrents. We went through it sometimes under closely-reefed topsails, and at other times unable to show a stitch of canvas. Since then our lives have been truly miserable till to-day (Sunday, 2nd October).
We have had many joyless days, and more dismal nights. How disheartening it is to see the lightning flashing round on all sides, and the thunder rolling overhead the whole night through. The morning brings little comfort--a troubled sea and a black, terrific sky. In the dark the ocean looks like a plain in a snow-storm. The eye can see nothing but the white-topped waves, driven furiously along by the ruthless winds. In a word, it is beyond my pen to describe it, but in it I can behold the presence of an Almighty God; and may this be beneficial to me here and hereafter. If I be wrong in believing that the souls of men are immortal, I please myself in my mistake; nor while I live shall I ever choose that this opinion wherewith I am so much delighted shall be wrested from me. But if at death I am to be annihilated, as some minute philosophers imagine, I am not afraid lest these wise men, when extinct too, should laugh at my error.
Yesterday we spoke the schooner Lapwing, of New York, from Carthagena to New York, with all on board sick except the captain and two or three passengers. Gale still blowing.
Monday, 3rd. --Gale raging again in all its fury.
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Wednesday, 5th. --Spoke the schooner Mary Hutton, of Philadelphia, from Mobile bound for New York. During the hurricane we had to be tied to the wheel for our watch--four hours--and for nine days and nine nights this occurred. We never had our clothes off. Fortunately I had some rum of my own, and I took it made thick with sugar, which kept me alive. In the fury of the gale the forecastle hatch was nailed down, and we were obliged to feel for the softest plank on the cabin floor to lie down upon, or the dryest spot on deck, to get a little rest, as sleep was out of the question, and, as I said before, our clothes wet through and never off our backs. Had it been cold instead of warm weather it would have been serious for us. We were nearly worn out as it was.
Friday, 7th, 6 a. m. --Saw the Island of Cuba, that portion called Havanna. A steady breeze and hue weather. Letter to my wife: ---
Brig Chieftain,
October 7th, 1841.
MY DEAR WIFE,
Now that I am a little relaxed from toil, I embrace the opportunity with pleasure of dedicating a letter to you, who are ever in my thoughts, be the wind and weather what they will.
But what I am to write about is the question. Anyhow, I have commenced, so must say something. To give you an account of this passage, so far as it has gone, and the present state of my feelings, will be my first object.
It is nineteen days since we left the Island of Jamaica, and we are still in the Gulf of Florida; and, if we have not better fortune, will have a long passage before we reach London. But I hope we shall make up for all this delay yet. This is rather a trying time with us, and enough to sicken anyone of the sea. We have been nine days in a gale of wind --and such a gale I should never like to see again. Old, experienced men on board said it was part of a hurricane. The sea ran mountains high, and was most terrible to look upon. At night the sky and sea appeared to be at war with each other. What with the thunder and lightning above, and the hoarse roar of the waters beneath (which seemed every moment to close over our heads), the timid were made to shake, and the brave stand still and think of things that perhaps they had never thought of before. Then is the time, my dear, for a reflective mind, and then the time to behold the wondrous workings of an Almighty God. Now the storm has ceased, and this is a beautiful day. All is quiet and sunshiny, and the sea almost as smooth as glass. What a contrast to last Sabbath! Excuse me, Teeney, but I cannot describe it. It is too hard a task for me at present, only there is a great lesson
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to be learned from it, which I will teach you, please God, when we meet. I am only very middling in bodily health, being very much tormented with boils on my legs, caused by being kept so long on salt meat and bad provisions. Indeed, the food is so bad that we cannot make a meal when it is put before us. The bread is full of maggots, and the peas, rice, bailey, and flour are all alike; so that it takes us longer to pick out the live stock than to eat our meals. I am getting very thin, and by the time I get home, will be about as fat as a kitchen poker. I hope you have got some potatoes and green kale in reserve for me.
This is the fortieth day since we left Jamaica, and only little more than halfway, and very little to keep life in a bottle of water. No soup for dinner--only bread and salt beef, which makes us very thirsty; but please God we may soon reach London. I am almost sickened of the sea, which I think is no wonder, seeing what I have suffered this voyage. I trust you are in good health, although I cannot boast much of that blessing myself. Trusting to meet you soon (God willing),
I remain,
Your affectionate husband,
ROBERT CAMPBELL.
Saturday, 8th. --In company with four or five vessels, one an American barque, which we signalled. Gave all hands a glass of grog, it being the anniversary of my wedding day. They all wished us many and happy days to enjoy each other's society.
Monday, 10th. --Spoke an American barque called the Claremont, of Thomastown, from Laguina to New York, out twenty-three days.
Tuesday, 11th. --Put on an allowance of fresh water. Good weather, and nothing worthy of remark.
Sabbath, 16th. --Spoke a Bermuda brig, from Demerara, bound for Baltimore.
Monday, 17th. --No soup for dinner, only bread and beef. No oil for light in forecastle. Killed a pig.
Tuesday, 18th. --Had a bit of pig in a sea pie for dinner.
Wednesday, 19th. --Very bad with my legs.
Thursday, 20th. --Laid up for a day and a night with my legs.
Friday, 21st. --Harry, the cook, discharged from duty, and the boy put in his place. A few vessels seen going to the southward. Strong breezes and cloudy weather.
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Sunday, 23rd. --Spoke the schooner Daniel and Isaac, of Boston, from Madeira to Boston. During the past week we have had very squally weather--three days of it a fair wind, which was a happy sight to all hands, for everything looks gloomy and cheerless. We are only allowed a bottle of water each man per day; and no grog, even at reefing topsails. In the course of the week we signalled a French brig and an American barque.
Sunday, 30th Oct. --It is now forty days since we left Jamaica, and not more than half way to London yet.
Monday, 31st. --We were put on a pound of beef, and half a pound of bread per day. Same evening got a bottle of grog among all hands, it being Halloweve.
Tuesday, 1st. --Caught a lot of rain water, which is a great blessing. I got a little to wash out some dirty clothes.
Wednesday, 2nd. --Killed little Bess, the pig. A fair wind, for which we are all very thankful.
Thursday, 3rd. --A fine breeze and fair weather. A schooner in sight, standing to the southward.
Saturday, 5th. --Being Mary's birthday, I remember to drink her health, and wish her long and happy days.
Sunday, 6th. --Spoke the barque William Harris, from the Main, bound for Cork for orders, out seven weeks and five days. We told him we were short of everything. He said he was in the same predicament, but offered to give us some water. We thanked him but declined, and said as we had a fair wind we would be able to get home without it. We bade each good-bye and proceeded on our passage.
Tuesday, 8th. --The barque seen far to the northward. 9th. --Lost sight of her. A gale blowing from the north-west. 10th. --Same wind and weather, nth and 12th. --Same. 13th. --More moderate. 14th. --Strong winds with heavy rain. 15th. --Spoke the barque Mary and Peter, from Africa to Liverpool; out 86 days. 16th. --Fresh breezes. The barque is far off, as we could pick her up on our lee quarter. 17th. --
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Strong gale from the south-west. Ship hove to under close-reefed main topsail.
Friday, 18th. --More moderate. The captain came on deck at 3 a. m. and exercised all hands at unnecessary jobs, at one of which he tried to capsize me off the fore-yard by pulling a rope suddenly out of my hand, when my attention was engaged elsewhere. We exchanged a few words over the affair.
Sabbath, 20th. --Same wind and weather. A few outward bound ships in sight. 21st. --Spoke the barque Recovery, of Dublin, from Quebec for Dublin. 22nd. --Fine breeze and fair wind; soundings, 160 fathoms.
Wednesday, 23rd. --Spoke the Pearl of Falmouth, pilot boat. The Lizard Point in sight, about nine miles distant, being the first land we've made, and sixty-three days from land to land. Same night off the Startlight. Midnight. --Made sail and proceeded.
Thursday, 24th. --Strong winds from the southward. 10 a. m. --The Isle of Wight in sight on the starboard bow. 8 p. m. --Beechy Head light on the lee bow. Hove to till daylight.
Friday, 25th. --Stood in shore and sighted the land, 10 a. m. --The pilot came on board off Dover from the Wellington cutter. Sent a letter on shore for home. From the cutter we got some potatoes, a leg of mutton, and a few vegetables. We got some potatoes, but the other articles did not reach us. They offered us a few cabbage blades to eat with our rice. 2 p. m. --Sailed through the Downs. We passed many windbound vessels. Amongst the number the Thunderer man-of-war was lying, acting as guard ship, the Queen and Court being at Walmer Castle, the seat of the Duke of Wellington. 4 p. m. --Came to in Margate Roads.
Saturday, 26th, 6 a. m. --Got under weigh with the tide and a light breeze from the northward, in company with several vessels. 4 p. m. --The pilot got as drunk as ten topsail sheet blocks. 6 p. m. --Came to at the Nore light-ship. This place is memorable for the great mutiny, through which the
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gallant Parker and many others lost their lives. No sugar for coffee for two days past. We spoke to the mate about it, and got the barrel to wash with the coffee.
Sabbath, 27th. --Got under weigh at daylight, and had not proceeded far when a steamboat came alongside and wanted to take us in tow, but we did not agree to her proposal till near Gravesend, when we furled sails and were busily employed taking the chaffing gear off the rigging, and making all ready for docking. 2 p. m. --Passed Gravesend, where the pilot left us, and Mr Reid, the river pilot, came on board. After many turnings and windings up the river, which was crowded with colliers from Newcastle, North and South Shields, and Whitby, we arrived at Blackwall at 5 p. m., and hauled into the wharf, not sorry to be on terra firma once more.
I reached Scotland safely after my rough journeying. Driving to my home in an omnibus I met Louis Guthrie, who told me that I need not wander again, as I could start at Dalmonach at my own trade. He said he could get me a shop on the morrow if I wished. I accordingly began work the day after, and remained there till the beginning of 1844. I left Dalmonach to go to another establishment across the river, called Fairy Field, belonging to the same firm. The work there was more constant, and that suited me better. While there a few of us put our heads together and started a Regatta Club on a larger scale than that of 1839. On the 13th April, 1843, we held a meeting, when the following committee was elected: -- Robert Buchanan (treasurer), Robert Campbell (clerk), Wm. Young, Jas. Munroe, Thomas Hamilton, Arch. McIntyre, Robert Buchanan, Jas. Jamieson, Jas. Moody, Geo. Lang, Wm. Leckie, Dan. Cameron, Stewart Merrilies (only one still living with exception of self), Peter Strathearn, John McPherson, and Jas. McNaught. We held another meeting on the 20th, when it was considered necessary to have all the boats belonging to the Club classified as to length and breadth, to prevent disputes at regattas. The following are the different classes which were arranged by the Committee, and approved of by a general meeting: --
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1. That this class be for boats 20ft. overall, and not under 5ft. beam.
2. That this class be for boats 2oft. over all, and not under 4ft. beam.
3. That this class be for boats 23ft. over all, and not under 4ft. 7in. beam.
4. That this class be for boats 23ft. over all, and any breadth.
5. That this class be for boats 25ft. over all, and not under 4ft. 4in. beam.
6. That this class be for boats 25ft. over all, and any breadth.
7. That this class be for boats 27ft. over all, and any breadth.
8. That this class be for gigs any length and breadth.
9. That this be for a class of boats pulled by one man, hereafter specified.
ARTICLES OF THE CLUB.
1. That this Club be called the "Vale of Leven and Loch Lomond Rowing Club," and that each member pay one shilling as entry money, and one penny per week afterwards during the season: the season to be from the lst of April until the 30th of September.
2. That a committee be duly elected from a general meeting at the beginning of each year, and to consist of at least two members from each Field, and a Treasurer and Secretary to be elected therefrom. The said committee to be responsible for all duties connected with their office during their term in said office.
3. That all boats be regularly classified according to lengths and breadths, laid down by Club; and that any member of the Club having a boat, and being challenged by another member to match his boat, must make the same known to the Secretary; he having it in his power to call five of the committee to attend, that they may have a starting and a turning boat; to see justice done to both parties, and likewise to decide all disputes. The bets to be put into their hands previous to starting, and that five per cent, of all bets run in this way be paid into the Club funds.
4. That at every race, whether public or private, the coxswain of each boat shall draw lots for their station, and no boat be allowed to foul another at the start; but that any leading boat may cut in for a nearer course. The judges to have it in their power to stop any race in which they see unfairness.
5. That there be a regatta at the end of every season, and on such a day as may best suit, and as the Club may agree upon; that everything be done to give all boats on the Leven an opportunity of running, and that the committee exert themselves to collect money for the said regatta.
6. After the regatta the members of the Club shall have a sociable festive meeting, and all parties bind themselves to that propriety of behaviour and language as should characterise such friendly contests.
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7. That the members he punctual in attending all meetings, especially the committeemen; that if any member of committee be absent without a reasonable excuse, he shall subject himself to a fine of three pence, to go to the funds of the Club.
Our Club prospered, and has always kept up its reputation. At the end of 1844 work was very slack, and when Mr Archie Orr Ewing asked me if I would go on at Leven Bank Print and Dye-works, I accepted his offer. I remained there till about the middle of '45, when I had the offer of the foremanship of the printers in Barrowfield Works, Glasgow. I had a splendid place there, earning thirty shillings per week. I had about three hundred men, women, and boys under my supervision.
In 1848 there was a general commotion amongst the working classes throughout Europe. The agitation reached Glasgow in due time, and workers became affected, and began murmuring, which in the end led to their knocking off work. The leaders, or, as they are now called, Socialists, held meetings, which were largely attended, and the town became very unpleasant to live in. Of course men of their stamp will always get a certain class to follow them, and these, with the larrikins, did a lot of mischief, damaging people's property and breaking into warehouses and helping themselves liberally to the contents. At length the authorities ordered the cavalry and pensioners (old soldiers) to the assistance of the police. I, being a foreman, had to attend these meetings to see where their next visit was to be, and one day they said they would go towards Barrowfield Print Works, down the main street of Bridgetown. They came on, the crowd getting rowdier as they proceeded. They picked up bits of road metal and threw at the old soldiers, who were ordered to pay no attention; but they were in danger of getting their heads broken, and after dodging the stones for awhile they asked the captain if they were to defend themselves or not. He said: "Defend yourselves if necessary--fire on them." They did so, and a man who was standing on the
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pavement beside one of our apprentices jumped in the air and fell dead. The boy got such a fright that he turned and fled, never stopping till he reached his home and was upstairs in his own room. Another decent man was in the act of putting the shutters on his shop window when a bullet struck him in the back, killing him. This ended the riots. The people saw by this time that the authorities had had enough, and were determined to put all such things down at any cost.
I remained in Glasgow till August, 1848, when I made up my mind to cross the ocean and settle in New Zealand. After selling up our home, and bidding farewell to friends, we left for London to join the ship Ajax, which was to sail from that port for the Antipodes on 6th September, 1848.
