LETTERS AND JOURNALS OF MISSIONARIES. TAUPO AND ITS INHABITANTS.
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LETTERS AND JOURNALS OF MISSIONARIES.
TAUPO AND ITS INHABITANTS.
THE islands of New Zealand, like many others in the South Seas, are of volcanic origin. From Mount Edgecumbe, an extinct volcano in the Bay of Plenty, on the north-east shore, to Mount Egmont, also an extinct volcano, near Cape Egmont on the south-western shore, the traces of volcanic action are perceptible; boiling springs, geysers, fumeroles, solfataras, and stufas, evidencing the power of those subterraneous fires which are now restrained and kept down by the superincumbent mass which they themselves have been instrumental in upheaving from the depths of the sea. The volcanic focus appears to be situated in a magnificent mountain group occupying the centre of the island, of which Tongariro, a volcano still in activity, about 6200 feet above the sea level, 1 and Ruapahu, an extinct volcano of considerably higher elevation, constitute the principal summits. The country around this mountain group has, strongly impressed upon it, the traces of the disturbing processes to which it has been subject.
Our frontispiece presents a view of Tongariro, drawn by G. F. Angas, Esq., in 1844, and published in his "Savage Life and Scenes in Australia and New Zealand." We owe its appearance in our pages to the kind permission of the publishers, Messrs. Smith, Elder, and Co.
Connected with the eruptive character of the country, a chain of lakes extends, in the direction of the geographical line already adverted to, from north-east to south-west, of which the largest, Taupo, lies twelve miles distant from the base of Tongariro. It is an irregular triangular-shaped basin, its greatest length being about thirty-six miles, and its greatest breadth twenty-five miles. Surrounded, for the most part, by cliffs divided by gulleys, it is subject to sudden squalls, which sweep down from the adjoining mountains, disturbing its waters, and rendering them dark and troubled. At the south end the river Waikato enters the lake through a low alluvial plain, about fifteen miles in length, and bounded on either side by hills. Where the western shore, which is of a precipitous character, joins this delta, stood the native village of Te Rapa, to which reference is made in the ensuing narrative. Ascending the hills behind this Pa, and passing through a forest consisting of matai, 2 kahikatea, 3 and hinau-trees, 4 the traveller enters a desert region of mountainous character. On surmounting its highest ridge, which is about 3468 feet above the level of the sea, and 1576 feet above lake Taupo, a bulky group of mountains, which previously had been concealed by the intervening ranges, breaks full in view; Tongariro, with its truncated cone partly covered with snow, and frequently emitting white vapour from its summit, standing conspicuously forward from amongst them. The foreground is occupied by an intervening valley, about three miles broad, in which lies the lake Roto-aira, the principal source of the waters of the Waikato. 5
The scene, as mountain and lake open on the view, is grand and imposing. The massive bulk of Tongariro, forests for some miles clothing its sides, the lake at its base gleaming in the sun, while a neck of land, extending itself far into the lake, expands like an island, and affords a site on which stands the fortified Pa of Motuapuhi, where the Natives have often sought shelter from the attacks of their enemies, the Waikatos, combine to form a prospect of no ordinary beauty. The lake itself is bordered on one side by a
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stately forest, and in various directions may be seen the houses of Natives, and patches of cultivation. The lake Roto-aira is 372 feet above the level of lake Taupo; and a lake of still higher level, and of a peculiar character, called the Roto-ponamu, lies not far distant.
The inhabitants of this mountainous district have long been notorious, even amongst the New Zealanders, for their fierceness and barbarity. They have been continually at war with the surrounding tribes, and have suffered much themselves, while inflicting fearful sufferings on others. The peculiar character of these volcanic regions--the immense masses torn from their primaeval site by the tremendous force of earthquakes; the piles of black-cindered lava which are thrown around in wild confusion; the deep fissures of fearful depth which lie concealed amidst the brush and liands; the boiling springs in continual agitation, or small lakes of sulphur bubbling up in thick masses, accompanied with mephitic vapours; the hollow echo of the ground on which you tread, as if there were some mysterious gulphs underneath, from which you were separated only by a treacherous and yielding crust; present appropriate emblems of the restless passions of the inhabitants, and of the desolation which their outbreaking has often caused. The fierce spirit of the Taupo Natives has never been at rest. When not engaged in actual warfare, they have been agitated and uneasy. The stranger who has been amongst them has not unfrequently felt as insecure as he who, while venturing on the unsolid edge of some sulphureous lake, perceives the thin crust crumbling away from beneath his feet; and often the fiery stream of war and cannibalism has rushed down on the subjacent tribes, and laid waste whole districts. To Christianity they have been long and bitterly opposed, and many of their war expeditions have been directed against Christian Natives.
In August 1840 a fighting-party issued from Taupo, with the intention of exterminating all the Natives between Taranake, near the foot of Mount Egmont, and Wanganui, who had professed Christianity. Advancing along the course of a small river, they proceeded to attack a Pa called Waitotara, where a number of the Natives from the threatened districts had assembled to defend themselves. All efforts to effect a reconciliation having proved in vain, a collision took place, which terminated in the defeat of the Taupo people, some of whom were slain, and many others taken prisoners. The Natives of the Pa were as yet
young in their profession of the Gospel. The entreaties of the Missionaries that the prisoners might be spared proved vain, and they were all unmercifully slaughtered, with the exception of a few who made their escape amidst a shower of balls.
Resolved on avenging the death of their friends, the Taupo Natives, headed by Te Heuheu, the Chief of Te Rapa, continued from time to time to invade the territories of the Ngatiruanui, sometimes attacking Waitotara, sometimes threatening Wanganui, now surprising and cutting off some of their enemies, and again defeated and driven back. In the beginning of 1845 Te Heuheu assaulted the Waitotara Pa; and it was soon after rumoured that an influential young Chief, called Herekiekie, of Tokanu, on the lake of Taupo, whose father had been slain at Waitotara, had resolved on having utu (payment) for his father's death, and was preparing himself for war. The Wanganui Natives began diligently to strengthen the fortifications of their Pas, while the more timid Europeans either left the Settlement, or prepared to do so.
In the hope of averting the threatened danger, the Rev. R. Taylor, our Missionary at Wanganui, determined on visiting Taupo. He first proceeded to Herekiekie's Pa. The young Chief met him with many professions of kindness to Europeans, and of his anxiety to live at peace with the Natives on the coast; but his words seemed insincere, and as little trustworthy as the ground on which his place stood, in the vicinity of the hot springs. Our Missionary and his party next visited Te Rapa, and were received most graciously by Te Heuheu. The natural dignity of this influential Chief, and his open conduct, were much admired. He candidly acknowledged the power of European influence over him, and said that his desire was now to live at peace with all men. He was sensible of the advantage of having a Missionary among his people; and proceeded to point out to Mr. Taylor the most beautiful spot in his neighbourhood, which, he said, should be set apart for the residence of a Minister when the Bishop appointed one. He deeply regretted his request had not been yet complied with, and that a Missionary had not been stationed at his place. Iwikau, his brother, with bold bearing and frank speech, said he would not conceal his desire of leading another expedition against Waitotara, when his atua (god) would be satisfied; after which he would for ever renounce war, and listen to the instruction which he admitted even then unarmed him.
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The eyes of Te Heuheu were never gladdened by the arrival of the Missionary for whom he wished. Some few months after, he, with many of his tribe, was cut off by a most fearful and unexpected catastrophe.
Above the village of Te Rapa, where he resided, the hills gradually rose to a considerable height. The ground, of a high temperature, was scantily covered with mosses and lichen. The original material, by the action of gaseous effluvia, had been converted into a red and white clay, of a soft alkaline nature, sometimes used by the Natives as soap, and sometimes eaten by them. At the top of the amphitheatre vapours issued from hundreds of crevices, while a subterraneous noise was heard continually. Te Heuheu's house lay in a valley, having a mountain on either side, the lake in front, and the hills just described in the rear. Recent rains had filled the subterraneous caverns, and the steam, as it rose from the heated water, in its efforts to escape through the fissures in the mountain's side, loosened from their hold large masses of the argillaceous clay, which, in their fall, blocked up the narrow gorge forming the channel of a mountain stream. The impeded waters continued to accumulate, converting a little valley which lay behind the range into a lake, until at length, yielding to the pressure, the whole mountain-side gave way in one fearful avalanche of thick mud and large masses of stones, burying Te Heuheu, his six wives, his eldest son, and all the Natives in the Pa, to the number of fifty-four. Te Heuheu might have escaped, but, instead of doing so, the old man--nearly seven feet high, and proportionably large, his hair silvery white, so that his people were wont to compare it to the snowy head of the sacred Tongariro, which alone, in their opinion, could be compared with it in sanctity--stood at the door of his house, and prayed to the Taniwa, a sea-god or monster, by whom the evil was thought to be occasioned, and while doing so was overwhelmed.
Invited by Iwikau, the younger brother and successor of the deceased Chief, Mr. Taylor proceeded, in June 1846, to visit the scene of the calamity, and avail himself of any opportunity for good which the season of affliction might afford. At Motuapuhi, in the Roto-aira lake, the native tangi (cry) commenced on his arrival. Through the various strong defences by which the neck of land connecting the Pa with the main shore is fortified, a passage was opened for the Missionary and his party; and, as he entered, the women on either side, and others in the rear, gave utterance to mournful cries, the principal Chief vibrating his arm, and uttering sounds expressive of his grief. Proceeding from thence, they found Te Rapa presenting a fearful scene of desolation, the entire valley filled up with one mass of ochreous mud, with here and there the fragment of a tree protruding; and here, at this fearful grave, our Missionary read the Burial Service, close to the spot where the bodies of four baptized Natives were still entombed in their houses. A few days after, a tangihanga, or crying party for the dead, took place. A fleet of canoes approached, in the form of a close triangle, appearing to be one mass of human beings, each individual having his head ornamented with a green branch. A court of reception, constructed of fences of fern six feet high, had already been prepared, at one end of which the visitors were arranged in the form of a half-moon, while the Natives of the Te Rapa side of the lake were similarly disposed at the other. The principal Chief, with some females, stepped before the rest, and the tangi commenced, in which full six hundred persons joined: "every one howled, weeping abundantly."
The effect of this visit was satisfactory. Iwikau, who previously had been hopeful, seemed resolved on turning to the Lord; and Herekiekie, hitherto an inflexible Heathen, expressed his willingness to receive Christian Teachers, and live in peace.
The Native Christians of Wanganui, participating in the anxiety of their Minister for the conversion of the Taupo people, became anxious to improve so favourable an opportunity. The Christmas season at the Wanganui Station is a time of peculiar interest. Occurring in the midst of the magnificent New-Zealand summer, it is marked by the assemblage of the Christian Natives from various points of the immense district under Mr. Taylor's charge, at his residence at Wanganui, that they may unite together in the commemoration of the Redeemer's birth. On Christmas-day 1846 not fewer than 2000 were thus convened, portions of tribes who, previously to the introduction of the Gospel, would only have met in murderous conflict. On the next day an interesting Prayer-meeting of the Native Teachers was held, when four from amongst them offered to proceed as evangelists to the Taupo Natives. Two, in whose devotedness and knowledge of the Gospel Mr. Taylor had the fullest confidence, were accepted. These men, Manihera (Maunsell) and Kereopa, amidst the deep feeling of all present, were commended in prayer to the care of the Most High. They were well aware, in consequence of the wars which had long
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existed between their own people and the Taupo tribes, that the undertaking was one of danger. At the attack made on the Pa of Waitotara in 1840, Herekiekie's father had been slain by Manihera's tribe. It might be, however, that, going amongst them on a Mission of peace and love, they would be well received, and be the means of consolidating a lasting peace; and, confiding in the recent professions of the Chiefs of Taupo, Mr. Taylor trusted such would be the case; but it was also possible that, according to heathen custom, their lives might be taken as utu, or payment for former deaths.
Proceeding by a somewhat circuitous path, to afford them an opportunity of visiting the Rev. T. Chapman at Rotorua, they reached Motutere, a well-populated Pa on the east side of lake Taupo, built on a tongue of land which projects into the lake. The Christian Natives of this place recommended them to proceed, in the first instance, to Pukawa, the Pa of Iwikau, who had assumed the name of Heuheu, as he was a good man, and would receive them kindly; but Manihera replied, that he ought to go to Herekiekie's Pa first, as he came to preach to the wicked; stating, at the same time, in his farewell address, that he felt the time of his departure was at hand. Such, indeed, proved to be the case. The widow of the Chief Tuateka, Herekiekie's father, who had been killed at Waitotara, was living at Tokanu, Herekiekie's Pa. Actuated by the most malignant feeling to the Ngatiruanui, and her son not being at home to control her, she seized with avidity this opportunity of revenge. A party of thirty secreted themselves in the bush, and fired, with deadly aim, on the Christian party as they advanced. Kereopa was shot dead on the spot. A Christian Native, who was walking with the two Teachers, in advance of a little body of friends who had accompanied them from Motutere, had his cheek grazed by a bullet. Manihera was severely wounded, and a man of Tokanu, named Huiatahi, rushing forward, inflicted several wounds on his head with a hatchet, and then, with the rest of the murderers, fled. Manihera was found binding his head, which was dreadfully cut, with a handkerchief. To Wiremu (William), the Christian Native who had been wounded by his side, he gave his New Testament, which he told him was indeed great riches, and, shaking hands with the rest of his companions, he leaned his head aside and died. 6
So soon as tidings of this sad event had reached Wanganui, Mr. Taylor at once resolved to proceed to Taupo, in order to allay the excitement which prevailed, and prevent the rekindling of war. There was much to deter him from such a proceeding. Many reports were in circulation as to the murderous intentions of the Taupo Natives toward himself. One Chief, living directly in the line of his journey, was said to have stated openly his intention of cutting him off. But our Missionary felt it was a critical moment: that the death of the two Christians might, if due exertions were made, be overruled for much good, and open the hearts of the Taupo people to receive the Gospel; but, otherwise, that a series of angry collisions would, in all probability, ensue, which would completely obstruct his work. On his journey upward he was informed that rumours of his coming had preceded him at Taupo, and that he was reported to be advancing, at the head of 300 or 400 men, to take vengeance.
By Heuheu he was received in a friendly manner. The great and lofty had fallen, but he bade them welcome, whatever might be the purpose of their coming, whether to cover up or uncover the crime; but that, from their first ancestors to the present day, the land had been polluted with blood. Mr. Taylor replied, that he had come a second time on account of the dead; first for Te Heuheu, next for Manihera and Kereopa: the falling of a mountain had crushed the one, by the will of God; the others had been basely murdered when they came as messengers of peace. Of himself it had been reported that he was coming, with several hundred men, to avenge the death of his friends: they had now the opportunity of seeing that the only weapon with himself and his party was the Word of God.
Heuheu was busily engaged in erecting an elaborate building to the memory of his brother, profusely ornamented with feathers, and painted with red ochre. Such memorials are not unusual among the Natives. Mr. Taylor describes another which he had seen erected over a beloved child: it was made of Totara 7
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plank, in shape like a skilling, long and narrow. On the highest side was a door, through which the coffin had been admitted, and which, instead of being buried, was placed on a stage. The whole building was painted over with red ochre, ornamented with black laths--which were placed over the joints of the boards, having a great number of feathers appended to them--and surrounded with a neat fence. Below is a representation of this memorial, from a sketch by Mr. Taylor.
The party then proceeded to Tokanu. They entered it in a long line, preceded by Mr. Taylor. A few females alone gave them a suspicious welcome. The usual tangi, the mournful chaunt with which, amidst dismal groans and bitter weeping, friends greet one another on meeting, and recount the events which have happened during their absence, was omitted. In silence they sat down. Opposite to them was Herekiekie, and the murderers of their friends; and for a full quarter of an hour not a word was spoken on either side, while, with every few moments, additional parties of Natives continued to arrive, most of them carrying guns. It was a critical position. At last Hemapo, the brother of the Chief, spoke, deploring that the usual tangi had not been exchanged, nor the usual welcome given. Tahana, the brother of an influential Chief of the Wanganui river, and a relative 8 of the Taupo people, who had come with Mr. Taylor, replied. He said that the work they had been recently engaged in was a new work, of which even their forefathers would have been ashamed, and that it was impossible to give hands, or join in the cry of friendship; and that if love had not filled their hearts they would not have come at all. At length the murderer spoke. He said his heart was not at all dark for the deed; that it was done, and that he did not wish to continue the evil, or carry it further; that it was agreeable to their ritenga (custom).
Mr. Taylor then addressed them. He told them he had come to prevent further blood-shedding: that vengeance was not theirs-- they left it with God; but that he trusted they who had been guilty of this deed would be led to see its enormity, and to repent of it: that, as they had shed this blood in compliance with their ancient customs, it ought to be the price of a permanent peace, so that love should henceforth prevail between the tribes, and that one of their Chiefs ought to return with him as an ambassador of peace. The Chief Herekiekie replied, that, had he been at home
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he would have prevented the murder; and that he heartily agreed to Mr. Taylor's proposal that they should be at peace: that his desire was that the Ngatiruanui should come to his Pa, and that they should be welcome; but that before he could depute one of his Chiefs to visit them, it was necessary that he should be assured, from the Ngatiruanui themselves, that they were prepared to give his messenger a friendly reception. With this understanding, without eating or shaking hands, Mr. Taylor and his party returned in silence to their canoe, while the Tokanu Natives followed them to bid them farewell. So terminated this critical interview, throughout which our Missionary knew his danger to be extreme; but he felt that in this way alone could he hope to prevent the breaking forth of a general war, the Christian Natives in the Taupo district, at Rotorua, and Waikato, being all prepared to rise in abhorrence of the deed. On their return, the Wanganui party visited Waiariki, the place where their dear friends had slept the night before the murder, and near which they are buried, a neat double fence surrounding the spot. Standing around it, the Christian Natives united in a hymn, and were then addressed by Mr. Taylor on Rev. xiv. 13. Many a tear was shed as they knelt down, and fervent the prayer which was offered, that the same hope which had sustained their martyred brethren might be their own support in the hour of death; and that the blood which had been shed might be overruled to the conversion of the murderers, and the dispelling of the dark spiritual night of Taupo.
In February of last year, Mr. Taylor, intending to visit Auckland on matters connected with the Mission, decided on going by way of Taupo. Two young men of the Ngatiruanui tribe--one of them Piripi, Manihera's successor as Head Teacher of Waokena, the other Hare Purumera, a principal Chief-- determined on completing that which Manihera and his companion had commenced, offered to accompany him as messengers of peace from their own tribe to the Taupo people. Some of his friends endeavoured to dissuade the latter from going, lest his bones should be laid by the side of his relative Manihera. He made the noble reply, "What if a canoe be upset at sea? will it hinder all other canoes from going to sea for fishing, lest they likewise should be upset? I shall go to Taupo, because the object is good--to make peace." Tahana, and others of the Christian Natives, were also of the party.
On reaching Tuware, the Pa of the Chief Manuka, who, on the occasion of Mr. Taylor's previous visit to Taupo, had threatened to cut him off, they were received with a loud "haere mai," or welcome, and afterward by a long cry, which, according to New-Zealand fashion, was followed by speeches. Manuka bade them welcome as the servants of God. He said that Christ was the head over all, and that where-ever His faith went it brought peace with it; and that therefore they had his "haere mai," because they were taking the Ngatiruanui to make peace at Taupo. Hemapo, the Chief of Tokanu's brother, told them that the way was now open--that Manihera's death had effected it. In the evening, an old female Chief having attracted, by her loud speaking, the attention of Mr. Taylor, he inquired of one of his Natives who she was. "That," was the reply, "is Herodias; for, as one desired John the Baptist's death, so the other asked for Manihera's life." It was Kahurangi, the mother of Herekiekie, and the grand instigator of the murder.
After climbing the intervening ranges, sometimes by paths very precipitous, they entered the beautiful plains of the interior called the "Mania." The surface of these plains is generally pumice, resting upon yellow-ochre, although here and there are patches of lava. In the pumice are many pits, about eight feet deep, which, from their dryness and warmth, the Natives often use as sleeping-places in the winter. Mr. Taylor thus describes the aspect of these plains--
March 9--Here and there were little isolated woods, whilst the forest bounded the landscape, alternately approaching and receding; and beyond, on one side, the hoary front of Ruapahu, with the sun shining on its snowy plains, and, on the other, Tongariro, a majestic cone rising from a cluster of smaller mountains, entirely divested of snow, but emitting volumes of smoke, which curled around the mountain, and finally hid its lofty crest from our view."
The Rotoaira lake was first attained.. On looking from his tent the morning after his arrival, Mr. Taylor saw it in the calm of a beautiful morning, reposing without a ripple, and reflecting the surrounding scenery as faithfully as a glass. He says--
"March 11--I had a full view of the remarkable peninsula on which Motuapuhi stands. On the left, the lofty mountain Paraitetonga, with the white clouds of vapour continually issuing from its breast; on the opposite side the beautiful mountains separating Taupo
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from this place, with their sides clothed with timber, and their bases reaching the water's edge, which, for the most part, are in a state of, high cultivation, while large lofty matai trees, rising majestically in scattered clumps along them, formed as lovely and picturesque a scene as can well be imagined; but heathenism and popery are still the chief possessors."
We shall now concede to Mr. Taylor the privilege of describing in his own language the places which he visited, and the reception which he met with from the Natives.
"March 12--We reached Tokanu about one P.M.., and were received with the usual cry of welcome, and the tangi of the females. Afterward we sat for some time in silence. Herekiekie arose and bid us welcome as the servants of God, and likewise as being his friends and relatives. 'Welcome Piripi, the friend of Manihera, and welcome Te Teira, 9 te tangata o Taupo'--the man of Taupo.' The object of your journey is good, and therefore you are all welcome, being messengers of peace. Huiatahi, the murderer of Manihera, bade us welcome; and Piripi also, as being a good man, coming on a good errand. Piripi replied, he was not a good man, for none were good; but still, as a believer, he strove and desired to be such. He came to cement the peace, and to prove that his tribe entertained no enmity toward them. Huikotuku welcomed us as coming, in the power of God, to finish the quarrel on the spot where it first commenced, and therefore bade us welcome to Taupo and Tongariro, the source of the quarrel. Wiremu Kingi [William King, one of Mr. Taylor's party] said our coming was not a fresh thought: it was an old one. We came, on the strength of the Christian faith, to make peace. If a person of old got burnt he prayed to his god to draw out the fire from the wound: so the people of God, who had felt the evils of war, sought to terminate them. He said, 'Henceforth let there be but one canoe for us all. We seek no payment for Manihera's death: if we did, we should have come in a different way. It was from the Lord, and therefore all was well.' After some other speeches to the same effect, I arose, and told them I did not come to remind them of their former feuds and animosities, but to bury them: that my wish was to promote their unity by the establishment of peace amongst them: that before I came in sorrow, and neither shook hands nor bade them welcome, neither eating nor drinking with them; but now the case was different: that as they had been hindered by the war 10 from fulfilling their promise of sending one of their number to make peace with the Ngatiruanui, I had brought the successor of Manihera to do so: that my desire was to assemble the Taupo Natives and the Ngatiruanui at my next Sacrament at Otake, and I hoped they would come; and, having seen each other face to face, they might banish war for ever. I then shook hands with every one, and they walked past my party, and saluted each person. Afterward, an abundance of food was set before us. I had a long discussion with some of the Natives of this place: they were all members of the Church of Rome. Indeed, I was grieved to find a sad change in that respect since I was last here, when they solicited me to obtain a Missionary for them. I bore their message to the Bishop. Since that period the Popish Priest has stepped in, and, I fear, secured most of them."
Herekiekie himself does not yet appear to have joined the Romanists, although numbers of his people have done so. At Putawa, Heuheu's Pa, Mr. Taylor found Monsieur Rene, a Romish Priest, a man of much blandness and courtesy of manner, who, we doubt not, will industriously disseminate amongst the Natives the erroneous tenets of the Church of Rome. This is deeply to be regretted, as this Chief has been most importunate in his demands for a Missionary. It has not been until after repeated disappointments that he has permitted a Priest to come and teach his people. It is evidently the object of the Romanists to work into the centre of the island, and there entrench themselves. In this proceeding they show much wisdom, as, the darkness of heathenism being unbroken in these remote districts, their own darkness will comparatively appear to be light. They hope, also, to seize the heart of the island, and from thence occupy eventually its remotest outlets; but as Mr. Taylor remarks, "the fountains of the arteries being with us, vital blood will be generated, which will flow back to the centre."
Meanwhile, in the absence of the Gospel, the germs of war retain their vitality, and new dissensions threaten. Heuheu having recovered his brother's body, has kept it in a cave, with the determination of throwing it down the crater of Tongariro, which, if he does, will most probably occasion a war, as the mountain is claimed by other parties; and such an act, according to native custom, would establish a right to that district, beside
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rendering the mountain so sacred that no European could afterward ascend it. We now recur to Mr. Taylor's narrative.
"After dinner I bade them all accompany me to the grave of Manihera, which they willingly did, and, as we went along, pointed out the spots where each of those faithful and beloved servants of God fell. They had put down a stake to mark the precise place, and pared the ground into the form of a saucer. They spoke of their death and agonies without any feeling. On our arriving at the grave I found all my party sitting in front, with their heads cast down, either in prayer, or sorrow, or both. I took my stand in front, having before me all the murderers and chief persons of the tribe, who, with my own party, together formed a large number. I commenced by giving out the thirty-ninth hymn, and then reading the account of Stephen's death; after which I pointed out the similarity of the case, and, as I trusted they had done it in ignorance, I solemnly exhorted them to repentance, and to turn to the Lord. I told them that we had no other feeling than love for them; but they had been guilty of a great crime, for which God would bring them to judgment unless they repented. I exhorted them to let this be the end of their quarrels, and henceforth to live as brethren with each other. I then offered up prayer for the murderers, and, having cleared the grave of weeds, and sown some seeds of shrubs, we returned."
This scene, also, we have endeavoured to represent, from a sketch by Mr. Taylor.
Shortly after, Mr. Taylor and his native friends from Wanganui bade farewell to each other for a time, the former proceeding to Auckland, the latter returning home, accompanied by three principal Chiefs of Herekiekie's tribe, to the Ngatiruanui, formally to make peace. Thus in the shedding of poor Manihera's blood that deadly feud is quenched, and we trust that results will follow of a still more important character. They suffered at the hands of those who were their enemies, but to whom they came on a mission of love: and the shedding of their blood has terminated the hostility of the Taupo Natives. May the blood of Him who is the great Peacemaker overcome, within the hearts of the same people, the principle of estrangement which keeps them far from God, and bring them near, in a spirit of unfeigned repentance, to Him who "commendeth His love toward us in that, while we were yet sinners, Christ died for us." Some of Manihera's relatives proposed that his remains should be removed to the country of his own people; but Mr. Taylor's answer was remarkable-- "Touch them not; for, so long as they remain there, the land is tapued for Christ."
We had intended to annex to this narrative an account of some of the lakes in the Taupo District which have been described by Mr. Taylor. The magnificent scenery connected with them, and their peculiar properties, render them worthy of consideration; but the want of space compels us to defer this portion of our subject to a future Number.
LONDON: Printed and Published by WILLIAM MAV0R WATTS, at No. 12, Crown Court, Pickett Place, Strand, in the Parish of St. Clement Danes, in the County of Middlesex. --Thursday, February 28, 1850.
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RECENT INTELLIGENCE.
New-Zealand Mission.
IN our Number for August last we inserted a reply from the Native Christians of Agurparah to the Society's Jubilee Letter. That Letter, addressed to the Native Converts in the different fields of the Society's labours, has reached New Zealand, and there also it has been gratefully received and affectionately responded to. We insert some replies which have reached us from Kaikohe, a Station in the Northern District, under the charge of the Rev. Richard Davis. They are so truly native, so simple, and yet so forcible, and expressive of such unaffected Christian devotedness and love, that in reading them we are reminded of the proverb, "a word fitly spoken is like apples of gold in pictures of silver." Mr. Davis remarks that the letters have been as correctly rendered as possible; but, from fear of straining the meaning, he believes the sense is not so strongly conveyed as it might have been.
The first is from a faithful Christian who, with his wife, "received the Word in much affliction, with joy of the Holy Ghost." They are now childless, having lost four children, the eldest of whom died while they were yet in a heathen state; the rest since they were brought to the knowledge of the Truth. Their last bereavement was that of a daughter, aged twelve, who, when admonished that she had not long to live, declared she would rather die than live in the midst of a sinful world. The expression of Christian resignation on the part of the parents was most touching. The father said, "Yes, I shall be thankful to know my children have gone before me. I shall have no further care for them on account of sin. They will be safe. I know my child must die. I do not wish she should live in this sinful world. Let her go to be with her Saviour. But do not think I shall not feel her loss. For the last week my grief for her body has disjointed my frame; but when she is gone I shall think of others, to bring them to Christ. I have them in my heart."
The following is a literal translation of his reply to the Society's Letter--
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"Friends and Elders of the Church of England, Fathers in Christ, how do you do?
"We have heard of your thoughts, and of your considerations written in your affectionate Letter which has reached us. You love us and the whole world, together with all parts of the Church in Christ Jesus our Lord, our Saviour from sin. It is right for us all to praise Him, and to rejoice at the present time, for He has saved us from the death of sin, and from hell. It was through the mercy of God you sent us the Missionaries, through whom we heard of the promises of God, of the gift also of His only Son, who has died for our sins: it was in His heart to send us the Missionaries through you. I live in this land with Sarah my wife: we are alone: our children are gone to God. Jemima died happy in this School: she was the last. Three of our children are with Christ: it is our desire they should go to God, lest they should, in remaining in the world after we are gone, have been led astray by the wickedness of man. It is just that we should love you, because it was through your Missionaries we and our children heard of the salvation of God, given to the world in Jesus Christ. I pray to God for all parts of the world, that they should become Christ's, and for you also who loved us, the smallest people in Christ Jesus our Lord. I rejoice on account of your thoughts of love, which you are now bearing toward us in Christ our God and our Saviour.
"This is all, from your loving friend,
"CHARLES TAURUA."
The next is from a respectable Chief, and valuable Christian Teacher, who, during the trying period of Heke's war, continued strictly loyal. His stedfast refusal to carry arms against the Government exposed him to threats of vengeance from his own people; but with Christian intrepidity he braved the storm, thinking it better, if such were the will of God, to suffer for well-doing than for evil-doing, and he was mercifully preserved from injury.
"Kaikohe, July 14, 1849. "Loving Fathers--Your love comes to us through the love of Christ. Your Letter of love has reached us. It has laid before me-- it has been in my hands--been seen by my eyes--been read by my voice-- and its contents have sunk into my heart. By me it cannot be said [as well as by you] that I have been finally delivered from the sins of the flesh, the world, and the devil; but when those evils are presented to me they rouse my strength [of indignation] and my thoughts start up to Christ. I will now give you some account of my journeying to different places, where I go to visit those families who are living apart from the love of God. When I arrive among them, and hear their worldly and superstitious conversation, it is as though a sharp-pointed bramble-bush was passing through my ears; but when I look at them, love arises in my heart, and I speak the words of God to them, but it is with a sorrowful heart. Some of them will converse with me on the subject; some will agree with what has been said; some will turn away; and others will disbelieve and controvert my words: this saddens me. I have also another word to say to you, the Elders of the Church, and to the whole of the Church of England, and that word is, that you will continue to lift up fervent prayer to God for us at all times. Pray that we may be strengthened while living in the midst of so much evil; pray that we may be enlightened in the midst of this darkness; pray that our foolish hearts may be divinely taught; pray also that we may stand fast, that our feet may not slide, and that true faith may be increased within us. It is my desire to rejoice with them that rejoice, and to weep with them that weep. I rejoice, on account of the sheep which have been selected and gathered in; and sorrow after, and pray for, those which are still to be gathered in; for Christ has still other sheep amongst the tribes of the earth.
"One word more, which is, that you will give your whole hearts to prayer to God in our behalf that He may continue to give us His Holy Spirit, in order that we may possess light when we go among our friends who will not listen to the Truth; that He, the Holy Spirit, may make the word sharp, and cause it to sink down and become fruitful in their hearts. Pray that the influence of the Gospel may increase: then we will all rejoice together.
"From your loving friend,
"WILLIAM WATIPU."
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New-Zealand Mission.
THE LAKES OF NEW ZEALAND.
THE noble efforts made to introduce the Gospel of peace into the Taupo District, and thus terminate the fiery irruptions of its fierce and warlike tribes--which, like the lava from their own Tongariro, have often flowed down to waste and to destroy--were sketched in our last Number.
There is yet much connected with this interior district of New Zealand well deserving of our attention. Its topography is singularly interesting: the more prominent features of lake and mountain claim to be more fully described; and there are additional Missionary facts connected with these localities, not inferior to those which have been already traced. We are anxious to blend sketches of the scenery, and reminiscences of the former habits of the people, with the Missionary history of the island, that these different points in combination may attract more powerfully the attention of the reader, and excite more interest, on behalf of New Zealand, and its aboriginal race.
We have commenced with the heart, or elevated centre, of the northern island, and, when we have made ourselves acquainted with this, we have the opportunity of descending by some of the ravines to the lower districts on the coast, and collecting, and combining into a series of brief descriptions, whatever we find there which is worthy of note. We may select the course of the river which flows out of Lake Tarawera, and falls into the sea at Wakatane, in the Bay of Plenty; or following the valley of the Waiho, or Thames, in its progress to the northward, we may reach the Gulf of Hauraki, and proceed to visit the scenes of the Society's earliest labours in New Zealand--the country to the north of the isthmus between Auckland and Manukau harbours; or descend by the Waikato as it winds its course amidst hills clothed with trees, and the luxuriant vegetation which overspreads its banks, until, passing by the Rev. R. Maunsell's station at Maraenui, near its mouth, it enters the sea on the western shore; or choose the direction of the Wanganui, which, rising from Tongariro, and strengthened by the contributions it receives from Lake Taranaki at the southern base of that
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mountain, forces its way through ranges of hills --like the Waikato, bearing on its surface the pumice stones from the volcanic region--until, in lat. 39 deg. 57' south, it reaches the sea on the south-western shore. Thus, in every direction, many and important districts await our survey.
We shall, on the present occasion, describe some of the singular lakes which run in such a continuous chain from Taupo to the East Coast, that by some travellers they have been considered as the remains of an arm of the sea, from which they have been removed by the upheaving of the intervening land.
Taupo has been already to some extent described. This magnificent sheet of water is hemmed in by precipitous cliffs of great altitude, particularly on the western shore, where the trachytic rocks are washed by the deep water. The view in the Frontispiece--copied, by the kind permission of the Publisher, Mr. Murray, from Vol. I. of Dieffenbach's "Travels in New Zealand"--is from the rising ground above Te Rapa, forming a portion of the mountain of boiling springs from whence Te Rapa was subsequently destroyed. At the further extremity of the lake the Maunga-tahara mountain is seen, on the north-eastern slope of which lies one of the lakes, the Rotokawa, which will be presently described. Tongariro and Ruapahu of course are not visible, their situation being at the rear of the spectator, who is supposed to be looking north-east.
We shall now refer to Mr. Taylor's narrative of his perilous journey into this district in April and May 1847, immediately after the murder of Manihera and Kereopa. It contains some descriptions of Taupo, and the country in its vicinity, which have not been published.
Proceeding across the lake from Pukawa, the Pa of Iwikau, to Tokanu, Herekiekie's Pa, Mr. Taylor says, April 22--
"We passed by the mournful scene of Heuheu's glory and destruction: the grass has not yet grown on the common tomb of his tribe. The long-extended line of clay, which has covered up his Pa, forms a striking monument to remind us that "in the midst of life we are in death." The surrounding lake is strictly tapu, and the wild-fowl, as if conscious of their security, allowed us to pass by without taking wing."
Crossing the lake the next day to Motutere, a large Pa built on a tongue of land which reaches out into the lake from the eastern shore, Mr. Taylor remarks--
"I noticed particles of pumice floating everywhere in the deep water, and wherever we could see the bottom it was quite level, and beautifully lined by the movement of the water in parallel ripples. In one place I counted more than a dozen trunks of trees standing in the water. We went to one: it was a Totara (Taxus australis), and quite sound. It is evident, whatever may be the age of this lake's formation, that these trees are still older; and, from the various beaches which are clearly marked, it is plain that the lake has retired from its first bounds. I cannot but think it was first formed by the subsiding of the surface when the entrails of the land had been vomited forth by Tongariro or its neighbour, when in full action.
"Leaving Motutere, we went to see Motu Taiko, a small island about three miles distant. The island may be near half-a-mile long. It is formed of bold lofty rocks, of a volcanic character, between whin and obsidian, veins of which abound. The rocks are nearly vertical at their base: a basaltic formation is visible. The approach to this island is singularly beautiful. We entered a small recess in the rocks, which rose up in the most fantastic forms, with numbers of the Pohutukawa-trees 11 twining their gnarled roots amidst the cracks of the cliffs, and forming a kind of embowered harbour. Below, we had the clearest water, revealing the sea-green stones at a great depth, where the eye followed until they disappeared in the deep abyss. Inland, we saw beautiful shrubs rising one above the other to the summit of the island. It is singular that the Pohutukawa should flourish here in great abundance, and nowhere else inland, excepting on the island in the Rotorua lake. 12 It is only found on the sea-shore, and there no lower south than Mokau. 13 Whether the seeds were upheaved with the land, or this island was the first raised out of the ocean, it is impossible to say: its cliffs appear in places full 400 feet high, of solid rock, but ornamented with the Pohutukawa, which ap-
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pears to be continually causing large masses of rock, to be detached by the working of its roots. The surface stratum of the island is pumice. We went round it, and one point we especially admired. Here a deep cleft in the rocks forms a narrow but secure entrance for canoes, and its rocky sides are completely covered with net-work from the interlacing of the roots of trees, whose tops unite in making a beautiful arch above. These trees present a singular appearance, from their sending out fibres of roots of a bright red colour from their branches, even at a great height above the water. I think, however, this tree is not altogether identical with the one on the sea-coast, as its seed-pods appear to be much smaller. I was much pleased with this little isle: there are spots in it which are like fairy scenes, and remind one more of a theatrical painting than any thing real.
"April 26---About nine this morning we left Orona to cross the lake. The pumice-stone cliffs, being of a dazzling whiteness, were long visible; also a basaltic columnar range near Orona, which is called Taupo, and gives name to the lake. About eight miles from the shore the water shoaled, so that we could see the bottom. This is called Te Tahuna (The Shoal), and is a place of great resort for the Kokopu, 14 which here attains its largest size, about ten inches. A little further we crossed the course of the Waikato. I could not perceive any current, but the Natives said they did. In four hours and twenty minutes we reached the other side of the lake: there the cliffs are all basaltic, and rise perpendicular from its depths. They have a grand though gloomy appearance, and bring the thoughts back to the time when the greater portion of this lake was a vast crater, filled with boiling lava."
Mr. Taylor was now about to proceed from Taupo to Auckland. We shall accompany him to the bounds of the Taupo district, that we may learn from him something of the nature and character of the country.
"We landed in a pretty little bay called Kowaihoro, shut in with these perpendicular walls, which rise to the height of full 200 feet. From the cracks in the sides spring many beautiful shrubs, especially one called e Kuraihoro au Auralia. Here were three huts, and as many women, who promptly boiled some potatos for our large party. At half-past two we left, and a long and weary walk of fourteen miles brought us, after sunset, to Tutaka-moana. The first part of the country, on leaving the lake, was high, and almost entirely composed of lava streams, forming elevated walls, showing, by its cracks all leaning the same way, how the semi-fluid and cooling mass in front was pushed forward by the more fluid lava behind. In one place the road wound round the face of a perpendicular lava cliff, which, as it was of a scorious nature, afforded some little footing for the feet and hold for the hands, although it was not very pleasant to look down the deep abyss.
"Next day we passed by a very romantic spot, where vast basaltic columns shoot up to a height of near sixty feet. I notice that all the rocks here are vertical from Taupo. Hence I am led to suppose this part was the grand centre of upheavement; and as at this point there is a total absence of all primitive rocks, so there are none in this island. From this place the land seems gradually to decline toward the north: on the Wanganui side it rises abruptly; but here it presents, with the exception of isolated masses of rock and mountains, an inclined plane to the north. It is chiefly composed of grassy plains of different elevations, the lower appearing once to have been lakes. There is a scarcity of water. The walking was very good. We passed by a singular-looking mountain, having a pyramidical rock crowning its summit: it is called Titiraupeka. Thence about five, after hard walking, we reached Mangakino, one of the most remarkable streams I ever saw. We descended from an elevated plain to a lower one, and from that along a rapidly-sloping face of rock to the brink of a deep chasm, down which the Mangakino rushed with great impetuosity. The sides of this chasm were formed of basaltic columns of pentagonal and hexagonal figure. It was evidently a vast fissure formed by an internal power, as each pillar had its corresponding place on the opposite side. This fearful abyss we crossed by three poles thrown over, along which I crawled on all fours; and on the opposite side we had to crawl in many places up a perpendicular face of rock. I felt thankful when I reached the top. There, in a little hollow, we encamped for the night. These basaltic columns have generally a hole in the centre of their top, which gives them an artificial appearance. This fissure appears to be about half-a-mile long. Above it the river is wide and deep, and rushes down into it, amid fallen pillars, with a loud roar, and forms a beautiful cascade."
We shall now recur to Mr. Taylor's narrative of his journey of last year from Wanganui, by Taupo, to Turanga, on the East Coast. It contains notices of several lakes which had not been previously visited by him, as well as other points of interest.
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Leaving Taupo at the Waikato end of the lake, Mr. Taylor and his party struck inland. The road lay over a very desolate plain, covered with pumice and moss, with occasional tufts of grass and Manuka 15 shrubs. The narrative then proceeds--
"March 15--We reached Rotokawa, 16 a fine large lake, whose waters are diluted sulphuric acid. We searched in the dark a long time for fresh water, and at last were fortunate enough to meet with some. What a blessing do we feel it when we have been deprived of it for a short time! It was nearly eight P.M., and quite dark, before my tent was pitched. The ground is full of holes and gas-jets, so as to make it dangerous moving about in the night. The water here seems to be in subterraneous channels, and so is not seen. In looking for water we came to an awful fissure, the sides of which were several hundred feet perpendicular, so that we could not descend. What terrific scenes must once have occurred in these parts whilst the work of upheavement was going on! What chasms were then formed Rotokawa itself is a standing witness. Surrounded with perpendicular cliffs, it has evidently been formed by a subsiding of the ground; and the many hundred hot springs, pouring forth their sulphureous streams into the lake, have rendered its waters an immense reservoir of sulphuric acid.
"March 17--About four P.M. we caught a distant view of Rotomahana. The first appearance is very remarkable, and cannot fail to astonish the traveller, whatever countries he may have passed through. The lake lies in a great hollow, surrounded, on the side we descended, with lofty precipices, but containing a considerable extent of low swampy land along one of its shores. The further side is formed of hills literally covered with puia-- boiling springs or gas-jets--sending out volumes of steam: the ground, too, being of red or white-ochre, also gives those hills a very remarkable character. The lake has several islands in it; some merely tufts of grass, but filled with water-fowl, ducks, pukeko, 17 and sea-birds, who seem to delight in the warmth of its waters. There are two islands, however, which present a singular appearance, being composed of mis-shapen rocks, and red or white-ochre hills, filled with boiling cauldrons and jets of vapour, all intermingled with Manuka trees and houses, on reaching which the stranger scarcely knows where to set his foot lest he should tread on unsafe ground, the whole surface being very hot, and covered with fragments of former puia. On reaching the lake, two canoes came for us. I kept my hand all the time in the water to ascertain its degree of heat, for it is a warm-water lake, as its name, Rotomahana, 18 implies. I found it varied from about 90 to 120 deg. Fahr., this difference being occasioned by innumerable boiling springs at the bottom of the lake, whose presence was detected on the surface by the escape of gas and large bubbles. The water of the lake appears extremely deep, but has no peculiar flavour. On reaching the island, we were received with a loud welcome. They greeted me as the father of Manihera, a title which could not fail being gratifying. After a short stay, it was arranged that, as this was not their chief residence, we should all go to a place called Piripai, a few miles further, to spend the Sabbath; but while they were cooking food, I went to see one of the puia, and a more remarkable place I never saw. It was like an immense flight of white marble stairs, each being from one to three feet high, of a white siliceous stone, formed by the deposit of the waters; but in places of a beautiful flesh colour, over which about two inches of warm water fell. I pulled off my shoes and stockings, and walked over this magnificent and unequalled staircase, some parts being so slippery that I nearly glided down. One of these steps presented merely a rim externally, and formed a basin or bath, about four feet deep, of beautiful clear water, of a greenish hue, which also is the colour of the lake. The temperature was near 120°: it felt almost too warm, but there were different degrees of temperature in each compartment, for there were eight baths. I ascended to the summit of the staircase, where there was a flat landing-place on either side, the centre not being visible at first for the volume of steam which issued from it. The surface cracked under the feet like thin ice; but being formed of successive lamina there was no danger, a little water being between the first and second layer. As I advanced, I found that the centre was occupied by an immense gulf of hot though not boiling water, of a beautiful light-blue colour, so remarkably clear, that, although the bottom could not be discerned, one seemed to see in the abyss to a vast depth. I cautiously approached the edge which over-arches this awful void, and, looking down, beheld a large rock rising up from the vast profound to near the surface, as white as snow, which formed a
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beautiful contrast with the azure blue water. A tree which had fallen in was also lapidified, and, with its branches, presented a very curious appearance. One part where the water overflowed left a thin deposit of sulphur, which tinged the siliceous pavement with a bright yellow; some steps being of a rose tint, and others of a pure white, which added to the beauty of the whole. The boiling spring is called Tukupurangi. 19 The surrounding hills, being covered with dark green fern, also set off this wonderful work of nature to greater advantage; and surrounded by innumerable gas-jets, which seem to be consuming the bowels of the mountain, it showed how easily the Lord can bring forth beauty out of such destructive causes, and overrule all for future permanent good. Such an assemblage of boiling springs I never saw: indeed, I could distinctly hear the noise of several at the bottom of the lake, and others boiling up furiously in their subterranean receptacles. The ground does not feel secure: the traveller treads with fear lest the crust should give way, and plunge him into the hidden depths.
"The sun had set when we returned to the island. Our Natives had gone to Piripai, and we followed by canoe, gliding amongst islands covered with rushes, and every instant startling the wild-fowl from their warm retreats. It was quite dark when we landed in a retired nook, shaded by trees, where we tied the canoe, and followed the Natives about a mile, ascending, until, upon looking down, we saw the light of the fires made whilst my boys were putting up the tent. The village is on the Tarawera lake. Here we were again welcomed; and as soon as I had taken some refreshment, I held Service in a very neat Church, and preached to a small but attentive Congregation, after which I conversed with the Natives for some time.
"March 18--This morning I had Service with about thirty Natives, and then had School with them. Afterward I took a walk, and held a conversation with a sick woman, who, at my request, was sitting with her diseased foot in a warm bath. Speaking of Manihera, she said he had preached in their Church, and delighted them with his Christian discourse. He spoke to them as though he had a presentiment that his end was near; and, in conclusion, she said, "Mamae pu nga hahi katoa mo te Manihera" --All the Churches deeply sorrow for Manihera. In the afternoon I had Service again. The Teacher of this place is a tuwhenua--a kind of leper. His toes and fingers seem to be wearing away with dry ulcer-looking sores, and the skin is quite horny. I rubbed them over with caustic, and prescribed a course of medicine. I distributed medicine to the sick of the place. There are two lepers here, which, being an uncommon disease, is remarkable in so small a kainga (village). The hot sulphureous springs may have something to do with it. All the front teeth of the upper jaw of the people here are either decayed, or quite yellow and unsightly.
"March 19--The night was so very cold that I could scarcely sleep. Indeed, I have remarked, that, since we left Taupo, the nights have been perceptibly colder. This appears remarkable, as this is the centre of the hot springs; and one would have supposed that, where hundreds of them are sending up their volumes of steam, they would materially increase the temperature, and this, too, where a large deep lake, of near a mile in length, is filled with warm water; but though the water is called Rotomahana, the air, one foot above, is very cold.
"We proceeded to cross the Lake Tarawera in two canoes. I found the waters of this lake moderately warm; but on the shore, where-ever I scraped away about two or three inches of sand, it was too hot for the hand to bear. I noticed many ancient trunks of trees standing in this lake, and was told it is filled with them. At present the surrounding country is almost entirely destitute of wood. I am disposed to think that these lakes had anciently been caused by the land subsiding, to fill up the void occasioned by the ejection of matter from the neighbouring craters. The water of this fine large lake appeared to be very deep. Tarawera lake is nearly eight miles long. The Natives here also welcomed me as the matua (father) of Manihera; and several inquired whether I would permit them to attend my next meeting at Manganui a te ao. Thence we proceeded to the Kokoreka lake, around part of which we walked, as it was too rough in that part to cross. This beautiful little lake has a subterraneous communication with the Tarawera. A strong stream from it flows through the mountain which separates them, and, from the height it falls, shows that its elevation must be considerably greater than that of Tarawera. "
From this point Mr. Taylor proceeded to Rotorua. This remarkable lake, and the Missionary history connected with it, will afford us subject matter for another paper.
